View Full Version : derbesia algae outbreak
Dave
October 26th 03, 05:18 PM
Hi folks;
I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal, Remora HOB
skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue actinic/10000K), two
MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer. One sailfin
tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip anemones (was
one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails and a red-legged
hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure MPDI-25) once a
week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable phosphates, 1 ppm
nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure unit for about two
months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap Water
Filter.
Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with derbesia algae. I
suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it just comes back.
It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least 80% of the live
rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the sand.
My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so I'd rather not
take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action should I follow to
get rid of the derbesia?
I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning the water through
a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to trap the algae in
the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts of the algae
will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles (?), making the
situation worse.
I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water changes,
suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly water changes, but
am concerned about stressing the fish.
Any advice? Thanks in advance.
TW
October 26th 03, 05:31 PM
Dave
Are you referring to hair algae?
>Todd
>
>
>
Dave
October 26th 03, 08:57 PM
I'm not sure whether people call it beard or hair algae. I looked it up in
my copy of volume one of "The Modern Coral Reef Aquarium." Dense green mats
of very fine strands, about one to two inches in length. If I can find a
picture on the Web, I'll post the URL.
- thanks
Dave
"TW" > wrote in message
...
>
>
> Dave
>
> Are you referring to hair algae?
>
> >Todd
> >
> >
> >
>
Marc Levenson
October 26th 03, 09:22 PM
You can set up a bucket in front of the tank, and take a container with holes in
the base. Fill it up with cotton batting, and use your pump method to suck out
all you want. The batting will trap all the filth, and you can safely add the
water back to your tank.
Marc
Dave wrote:
> Hi folks;
>
> I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal, Remora HOB
> skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue actinic/10000K), two
> MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer. One sailfin
> tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip anemones (was
> one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails and a red-legged
> hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure MPDI-25) once a
> week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable phosphates, 1 ppm
> nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure unit for about two
> months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap Water
> Filter.
>
> Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with derbesia algae. I
> suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it just comes back.
> It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least 80% of the live
> rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the sand.
>
> My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so I'd rather not
> take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action should I follow to
> get rid of the derbesia?
>
> I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning the water through
> a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to trap the algae in
> the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts of the algae
> will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles (?), making the
> situation worse.
>
> I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water changes,
> suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly water changes, but
> am concerned about stressing the fish.
>
> Any advice? Thanks in advance.
--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
Dave
October 26th 03, 11:29 PM
Hi Marc;
That was the idea with the fine mesh bag I mentioned, but it seems to me I
read somewhere that unless an extremely fine filter was used, algae cells
will be put back into the water, in suspension, and the problem will get
worse. My impression was that something like ordinary filter floss/cotton
batting/etc. wouldn't be sufficient. Maybe this isn't correct ....
thanks;
- dave
"Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
...
> You can set up a bucket in front of the tank, and take a container with
holes in
> the base. Fill it up with cotton batting, and use your pump method to
suck out
> all you want. The batting will trap all the filth, and you can safely add
the
> water back to your tank.
>
> Marc
>
>
> Dave wrote:
>
> > Hi folks;
> >
> > I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal, Remora HOB
> > skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue actinic/10000K),
two
> > MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer. One
sailfin
> > tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip anemones
(was
> > one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails and a
red-legged
> > hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure MPDI-25)
once a
> > week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable phosphates, 1
ppm
> > nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure unit for about
two
> > months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap Water
> > Filter.
> >
> > Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with derbesia algae. I
> > suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it just comes
back.
> > It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least 80% of the
live
> > rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the sand.
> >
> > My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so I'd rather
not
> > take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action should I follow
to
> > get rid of the derbesia?
> >
> > I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning the water
through
> > a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to trap the algae
in
> > the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts of the
algae
> > will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles (?), making
the
> > situation worse.
> >
> > I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water changes,
> > suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly water changes,
but
> > am concerned about stressing the fish.
> >
> > Any advice? Thanks in advance.
>
> --
> Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
>
>
TW
October 27th 03, 02:02 AM
Dave
First you have to find the source of the problem. In most cases the
cause is too much nutrient in the water. You are probably like most of
us and are overfeeding. Your tank will survive with surprisingly little
food. In my case I cut food in half. My tank did not skip a beat.
Make sure your skimmer is working optimally. Be very careful what you
are adding to the tank. Could it be a source of nutrients?
How old are your light bulbs? Old bulbs can accelerate a algae problem.
You might look at reducing the time your lights are on. Make sure you
have good water movement in your tank without dead spots. When you do
water changes use the water that you are removing from the tank to scrub
off affected rocks. Use a stiff nylon brush and really scrub the rock
clean. If you pull it offf it will just grow back. Use a second
bucket to rinse the just scrubbed rock off and then return it to your
tank. This will really help to get the upper hand. Dump the buckets.
Use R/O water in your top ups and water changes.
Be patient. Hair algae can be very persistant. It took me many months
to finally get rid of it.
Todd
Dave wrote:
>Hi Marc;
>
>That was the idea with the fine mesh bag I mentioned, but it seems to me I
>read somewhere that unless an extremely fine filter was used, algae cells
>will be put back into the water, in suspension, and the problem will get
>worse. My impression was that something like ordinary filter floss/cotton
>batting/etc. wouldn't be sufficient. Maybe this isn't correct ....
>
>thanks;
>
>- dave
>
>"Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
...
>
>
>>You can set up a bucket in front of the tank, and take a container with
>>
>>
>holes in
>
>
>>the base. Fill it up with cotton batting, and use your pump method to
>>
>>
>suck out
>
>
>>all you want. The batting will trap all the filth, and you can safely add
>>
>>
>the
>
>
>>water back to your tank.
>>
>>Marc
>>
>>
>>Dave wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>Hi folks;
>>>
>>>I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal, Remora HOB
>>>skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue actinic/10000K),
>>>
>>>
>two
>
>
>>>MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer. One
>>>
>>>
>sailfin
>
>
>>>tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip anemones
>>>
>>>
>(was
>
>
>>>one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails and a
>>>
>>>
>red-legged
>
>
>>>hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure MPDI-25)
>>>
>>>
>once a
>
>
>>>week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable phosphates, 1
>>>
>>>
>ppm
>
>
>>>nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure unit for about
>>>
>>>
>two
>
>
>>>months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap Water
>>>Filter.
>>>
>>>Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with derbesia algae. I
>>>suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it just comes
>>>
>>>
>back.
>
>
>>>It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least 80% of the
>>>
>>>
>live
>
>
>>>rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the sand.
>>>
>>>My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so I'd rather
>>>
>>>
>not
>
>
>>>take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action should I follow
>>>
>>>
>to
>
>
>>>get rid of the derbesia?
>>>
>>>I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning the water
>>>
>>>
>through
>
>
>>>a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to trap the algae
>>>
>>>
>in
>
>
>>>the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts of the
>>>
>>>
>algae
>
>
>>>will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles (?), making
>>>
>>>
>the
>
>
>>>situation worse.
>>>
>>>I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water changes,
>>>suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly water changes,
>>>
>>>
>but
>
>
>>>am concerned about stressing the fish.
>>>
>>>Any advice? Thanks in advance.
>>>
>>>
>>--
>>Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
>>Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
>>Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Marc Levenson
October 27th 03, 03:38 AM
If you prefer to just vacuum it out and replace it with freshly made up
sal****er, that is a better alternative, because you are sure to avoid adding
any spores into your tank. Hopefully you are using RO/DI?
Marc
Dave wrote:
> Hi Marc;
>
> That was the idea with the fine mesh bag I mentioned, but it seems to me I
> read somewhere that unless an extremely fine filter was used, algae cells
> will be put back into the water, in suspension, and the problem will get
> worse. My impression was that something like ordinary filter floss/cotton
> batting/etc. wouldn't be sufficient. Maybe this isn't correct ....
>
> thanks;
>
> - dave
>
> "Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
> ...
> > You can set up a bucket in front of the tank, and take a container with
> holes in
> > the base. Fill it up with cotton batting, and use your pump method to
> suck out
> > all you want. The batting will trap all the filth, and you can safely add
> the
> > water back to your tank.
> >
> > Marc
> >
> >
> > Dave wrote:
> >
> > > Hi folks;
> > >
> > > I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal, Remora HOB
> > > skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue actinic/10000K),
> two
> > > MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer. One
> sailfin
> > > tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip anemones
> (was
> > > one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails and a
> red-legged
> > > hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure MPDI-25)
> once a
> > > week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable phosphates, 1
> ppm
> > > nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure unit for about
> two
> > > months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap Water
> > > Filter.
> > >
> > > Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with derbesia algae. I
> > > suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it just comes
> back.
> > > It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least 80% of the
> live
> > > rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the sand.
> > >
> > > My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so I'd rather
> not
> > > take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action should I follow
> to
> > > get rid of the derbesia?
> > >
> > > I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning the water
> through
> > > a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to trap the algae
> in
> > > the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts of the
> algae
> > > will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles (?), making
> the
> > > situation worse.
> > >
> > > I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water changes,
> > > suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly water changes,
> but
> > > am concerned about stressing the fish.
> > >
> > > Any advice? Thanks in advance.
> >
> > --
> > Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> > Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> > Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
> >
> >
--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
Dave
October 27th 03, 04:20 AM
Hi Todd;
Very little of the food I put in the tank even hits the bottom. If you've seen tangs eat, you know what I mean. ;-) In addition, I have undetectable nitrates ... the one ppm I mentioned before is even a stretch (I think I forced myself to see a bit of blue, because I couldn't imagine my nitrates could be zero ;-).
Light bulbs are only a few months old. Skimmer is working fine, as far as I can tell. As I mentioned, my rocks are anchored down in my tank with PVC frames and ties, though I suppose I could take them out and scrub them, ay caramba.
Dump the buckets?
As I already said, I use RO/DI water for all water changes.
Thanks;
- Dave
"TW" > wrote in message ...
Dave
First you have to find the source of the problem. In most cases the cause is too much nutrient in the water. You are probably like most of us and are overfeeding. Your tank will survive with surprisingly little food. In my case I cut food in half. My tank did not skip a beat. Make sure your skimmer is working optimally. Be very careful what you are adding to the tank. Could it be a source of nutrients?
How old are your light bulbs? Old bulbs can accelerate a algae problem. You might look at reducing the time your lights are on. Make sure you have good water movement in your tank without dead spots. When you do water changes use the water that you are removing from the tank to scrub off affected rocks. Use a stiff nylon brush and really scrub the rock clean. If you pull it offf it will just grow back. Use a second bucket to rinse the just scrubbed rock off and then return it to your tank. This will really help to get the upper hand. Dump the buckets. Use R/O water in your top ups and water changes.
Be patient. Hair algae can be very persistant. It took me many months to finally get rid of it.
Todd
Dave wrote:
Hi Marc;
That was the idea with the fine mesh bag I mentioned, but it seems to me I
read somewhere that unless an extremely fine filter was used, algae cells
will be put back into the water, in suspension, and the problem will get
worse. My impression was that something like ordinary filter floss/cotton
batting/etc. wouldn't be sufficient. Maybe this isn't correct ....
thanks;
- dave
"Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
...
You can set up a bucket in front of the tank, and take a container with
holes in
the base. Fill it up with cotton batting, and use your pump method to
suck out
all you want. The batting will trap all the filth, and you can safely add
the
water back to your tank.
Marc
Dave wrote:
Hi folks;
I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal, Remora HOB
skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue actinic/10000K),
two
MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer. One
sailfin
tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip anemones
(was
one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails and a
red-legged
hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure MPDI-25)
once a
week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable phosphates, 1
ppm
nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure unit for about
two
months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap Water
Filter.
Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with derbesia algae. I
suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it just comes
back.
It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least 80% of the
live
rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the sand.
My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so I'd rather
not
take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action should I follow
to
get rid of the derbesia?
I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning the water
through
a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to trap the algae
in
the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts of the
algae
will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles (?), making
the
situation worse.
I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water changes,
suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly water changes,
but
am concerned about stressing the fish.
Any advice? Thanks in advance.
--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
Dave
October 27th 03, 04:22 AM
Hi Marc;
Yes, but as I said before, I'm concerned that increasing the frequency of my
water changes will stress the fish. What do you think ... should this be a
concern?
And as I said before, I'm using RO/DI, from a Spectrapure unit.
- thanks again;
Dave
"Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
...
> If you prefer to just vacuum it out and replace it with freshly made up
> sal****er, that is a better alternative, because you are sure to avoid
adding
> any spores into your tank. Hopefully you are using RO/DI?
>
> Marc
>
>
> Dave wrote:
>
> > Hi Marc;
> >
> > That was the idea with the fine mesh bag I mentioned, but it seems to me
I
> > read somewhere that unless an extremely fine filter was used, algae
cells
> > will be put back into the water, in suspension, and the problem will get
> > worse. My impression was that something like ordinary filter
floss/cotton
> > batting/etc. wouldn't be sufficient. Maybe this isn't correct ....
> >
> > thanks;
> >
> > - dave
> >
> > "Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > You can set up a bucket in front of the tank, and take a container
with
> > holes in
> > > the base. Fill it up with cotton batting, and use your pump method to
> > suck out
> > > all you want. The batting will trap all the filth, and you can safely
add
> > the
> > > water back to your tank.
> > >
> > > Marc
> > >
> > >
> > > Dave wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hi folks;
> > > >
> > > > I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal, Remora
HOB
> > > > skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue
actinic/10000K),
> > two
> > > > MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer. One
> > sailfin
> > > > tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip
anemones
> > (was
> > > > one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails and a
> > red-legged
> > > > hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure
MPDI-25)
> > once a
> > > > week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable
phosphates, 1
> > ppm
> > > > nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure unit for
about
> > two
> > > > months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap
Water
> > > > Filter.
> > > >
> > > > Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with derbesia
algae. I
> > > > suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it just
comes
> > back.
> > > > It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least 80% of
the
> > live
> > > > rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the sand.
> > > >
> > > > My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so I'd
rather
> > not
> > > > take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action should I
follow
> > to
> > > > get rid of the derbesia?
> > > >
> > > > I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning the water
> > through
> > > > a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to trap the
algae
> > in
> > > > the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts of the
> > algae
> > > > will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles (?),
making
> > the
> > > > situation worse.
> > > >
> > > > I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water changes,
> > > > suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly water
changes,
> > but
> > > > am concerned about stressing the fish.
> > > >
> > > > Any advice? Thanks in advance.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Personal Page:
http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> > > Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> > > Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
> > >
> > >
>
> --
> Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
>
>
Marc Levenson
October 27th 03, 05:54 AM
If your salinity and temperature match (or is within 1 degree Fahrenheit),
water changes shouldn't stress the tank's inhabitants too much. How often are
you estimating?
Marc
Dave wrote:
> Hi Marc;
>
> Yes, but as I said before, I'm concerned that increasing the frequency of my
> water changes will stress the fish. What do you think ... should this be a
> concern?
>
> And as I said before, I'm using RO/DI, from a Spectrapure unit.
>
> - thanks again;
> Dave
>
> "Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
> ...
> > If you prefer to just vacuum it out and replace it with freshly made up
> > sal****er, that is a better alternative, because you are sure to avoid
> adding
> > any spores into your tank. Hopefully you are using RO/DI?
> >
> > Marc
> >
> >
> > Dave wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Marc;
> > >
> > > That was the idea with the fine mesh bag I mentioned, but it seems to me
> I
> > > read somewhere that unless an extremely fine filter was used, algae
> cells
> > > will be put back into the water, in suspension, and the problem will get
> > > worse. My impression was that something like ordinary filter
> floss/cotton
> > > batting/etc. wouldn't be sufficient. Maybe this isn't correct ....
> > >
> > > thanks;
> > >
> > > - dave
> > >
> > > "Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
> > > ...
> > > > You can set up a bucket in front of the tank, and take a container
> with
> > > holes in
> > > > the base. Fill it up with cotton batting, and use your pump method to
> > > suck out
> > > > all you want. The batting will trap all the filth, and you can safely
> add
> > > the
> > > > water back to your tank.
> > > >
> > > > Marc
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Dave wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Hi folks;
> > > > >
> > > > > I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal, Remora
> HOB
> > > > > skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue
> actinic/10000K),
> > > two
> > > > > MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer. One
> > > sailfin
> > > > > tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip
> anemones
> > > (was
> > > > > one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails and a
> > > red-legged
> > > > > hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure
> MPDI-25)
> > > once a
> > > > > week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable
> phosphates, 1
> > > ppm
> > > > > nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure unit for
> about
> > > two
> > > > > months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap
> Water
> > > > > Filter.
> > > > >
> > > > > Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with derbesia
> algae. I
> > > > > suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it just
> comes
> > > back.
> > > > > It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least 80% of
> the
> > > live
> > > > > rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the sand.
> > > > >
> > > > > My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so I'd
> rather
> > > not
> > > > > take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action should I
> follow
> > > to
> > > > > get rid of the derbesia?
> > > > >
> > > > > I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning the water
> > > through
> > > > > a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to trap the
> algae
> > > in
> > > > > the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts of the
> > > algae
> > > > > will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles (?),
> making
> > > the
> > > > > situation worse.
> > > > >
> > > > > I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water changes,
> > > > > suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly water
> changes,
> > > but
> > > > > am concerned about stressing the fish.
> > > > >
> > > > > Any advice? Thanks in advance.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Personal Page:
> http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> > > > Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> > > > Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> > --
> > Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> > Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> > Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
> >
> >
--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
Charlie Spitzer
October 27th 03, 08:08 PM
just because your nitrates are 0 doesn't mean that you're not providing
them. the mat is uptaking them, usually from the food you're feeding, and
you export it out of the tank by harvesting the algae. the algae uptakes it
amazingly quickly, so i'd expect that not much be evident in tests.
regards,
charlie
cave creek, az
"Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
...
> If your salinity and temperature match (or is within 1 degree
Fahrenheit),
> water changes shouldn't stress the tank's inhabitants too much. How often
are
> you estimating?
>
> Marc
>
>
> Dave wrote:
>
> > Hi Marc;
> >
> > Yes, but as I said before, I'm concerned that increasing the frequency
of my
> > water changes will stress the fish. What do you think ... should this
be a
> > concern?
> >
> > And as I said before, I'm using RO/DI, from a Spectrapure unit.
> >
> > - thanks again;
> > Dave
> >
> > "Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > If you prefer to just vacuum it out and replace it with freshly made
up
> > > sal****er, that is a better alternative, because you are sure to avoid
> > adding
> > > any spores into your tank. Hopefully you are using RO/DI?
> > >
> > > Marc
> > >
> > >
> > > Dave wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hi Marc;
> > > >
> > > > That was the idea with the fine mesh bag I mentioned, but it seems
to me
> > I
> > > > read somewhere that unless an extremely fine filter was used, algae
> > cells
> > > > will be put back into the water, in suspension, and the problem will
get
> > > > worse. My impression was that something like ordinary filter
> > floss/cotton
> > > > batting/etc. wouldn't be sufficient. Maybe this isn't correct ....
> > > >
> > > > thanks;
> > > >
> > > > - dave
> > > >
> > > > "Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
> > > > ...
> > > > > You can set up a bucket in front of the tank, and take a container
> > with
> > > > holes in
> > > > > the base. Fill it up with cotton batting, and use your pump
method to
> > > > suck out
> > > > > all you want. The batting will trap all the filth, and you can
safely
> > add
> > > > the
> > > > > water back to your tank.
> > > > >
> > > > > Marc
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Dave wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Hi folks;
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal,
Remora
> > HOB
> > > > > > skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue
> > actinic/10000K),
> > > > two
> > > > > > MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer.
One
> > > > sailfin
> > > > > > tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip
> > anemones
> > > > (was
> > > > > > one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails and a
> > > > red-legged
> > > > > > hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure
> > MPDI-25)
> > > > once a
> > > > > > week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable
> > phosphates, 1
> > > > ppm
> > > > > > nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure unit
for
> > about
> > > > two
> > > > > > months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap
> > Water
> > > > > > Filter.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with derbesia
> > algae. I
> > > > > > suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it just
> > comes
> > > > back.
> > > > > > It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least 80%
of
> > the
> > > > live
> > > > > > rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the
sand.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so I'd
> > rather
> > > > not
> > > > > > take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action should I
> > follow
> > > > to
> > > > > > get rid of the derbesia?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning the
water
> > > > through
> > > > > > a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to trap
the
> > algae
> > > > in
> > > > > > the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts of
the
> > > > algae
> > > > > > will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles
(?),
> > making
> > > > the
> > > > > > situation worse.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water
changes,
> > > > > > suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly water
> > changes,
> > > > but
> > > > > > am concerned about stressing the fish.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Any advice? Thanks in advance.
> > > > >
> > > > > --
> > > > > Personal Page:
> > http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> > > > > Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> > > > > Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Personal Page:
http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> > > Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> > > Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
> > >
> > >
>
> --
> Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
>
>
Dave
October 27th 03, 11:12 PM
Hi;
I understand your point. I just don't think I'm overfeeding, and nearly all
of the food I do feed goes into the fishes' mouths. I'm told that the
Remora HOB skimmer is a good one for a 55gal tank. But anyway ... maybe I
should try a nitrate remover?
"Charlie Spitzer" > wrote in message
...
> just because your nitrates are 0 doesn't mean that you're not providing
> them. the mat is uptaking them, usually from the food you're feeding, and
> you export it out of the tank by harvesting the algae. the algae uptakes
it
> amazingly quickly, so i'd expect that not much be evident in tests.
>
> regards,
> charlie
> cave creek, az
>
> "Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
> ...
> > If your salinity and temperature match (or is within 1 degree
> Fahrenheit),
> > water changes shouldn't stress the tank's inhabitants too much. How
often
> are
> > you estimating?
> >
> > Marc
> >
> >
> > Dave wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Marc;
> > >
> > > Yes, but as I said before, I'm concerned that increasing the frequency
> of my
> > > water changes will stress the fish. What do you think ... should this
> be a
> > > concern?
> > >
> > > And as I said before, I'm using RO/DI, from a Spectrapure unit.
> > >
> > > - thanks again;
> > > Dave
> > >
> > > "Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
> > > ...
> > > > If you prefer to just vacuum it out and replace it with freshly made
> up
> > > > sal****er, that is a better alternative, because you are sure to
avoid
> > > adding
> > > > any spores into your tank. Hopefully you are using RO/DI?
> > > >
> > > > Marc
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Dave wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Hi Marc;
> > > > >
> > > > > That was the idea with the fine mesh bag I mentioned, but it seems
> to me
> > > I
> > > > > read somewhere that unless an extremely fine filter was used,
algae
> > > cells
> > > > > will be put back into the water, in suspension, and the problem
will
> get
> > > > > worse. My impression was that something like ordinary filter
> > > floss/cotton
> > > > > batting/etc. wouldn't be sufficient. Maybe this isn't correct
.....
> > > > >
> > > > > thanks;
> > > > >
> > > > > - dave
> > > > >
> > > > > "Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
> > > > > ...
> > > > > > You can set up a bucket in front of the tank, and take a
container
> > > with
> > > > > holes in
> > > > > > the base. Fill it up with cotton batting, and use your pump
> method to
> > > > > suck out
> > > > > > all you want. The batting will trap all the filth, and you can
> safely
> > > add
> > > > > the
> > > > > > water back to your tank.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Marc
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Dave wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hi folks;
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal,
> Remora
> > > HOB
> > > > > > > skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue
> > > actinic/10000K),
> > > > > two
> > > > > > > MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer.
> One
> > > > > sailfin
> > > > > > > tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip
> > > anemones
> > > > > (was
> > > > > > > one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails and
a
> > > > > red-legged
> > > > > > > hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure
> > > MPDI-25)
> > > > > once a
> > > > > > > week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable
> > > phosphates, 1
> > > > > ppm
> > > > > > > nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure unit
> for
> > > about
> > > > > two
> > > > > > > months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals
Tap
> > > Water
> > > > > > > Filter.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with derbesia
> > > algae. I
> > > > > > > suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it
just
> > > comes
> > > > > back.
> > > > > > > It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least 80%
> of
> > > the
> > > > > live
> > > > > > > rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the
> sand.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so I'd
> > > rather
> > > > > not
> > > > > > > take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action should
I
> > > follow
> > > > > to
> > > > > > > get rid of the derbesia?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning the
> water
> > > > > through
> > > > > > > a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to trap
> the
> > > algae
> > > > > in
> > > > > > > the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts
of
> the
> > > > > algae
> > > > > > > will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles
> (?),
> > > making
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > situation worse.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water
> changes,
> > > > > > > suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly water
> > > changes,
> > > > > but
> > > > > > > am concerned about stressing the fish.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Any advice? Thanks in advance.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --
> > > > > > Personal Page:
> > > http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> > > > > > Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> > > > > > Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Personal Page:
> http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> > > > Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> > > > Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> > --
> > Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> > Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> > Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
> >
> >
>
>
Dave
October 27th 03, 11:15 PM
I'm considering doing water changes twice a week rather than once, only to
remove more algae before it has a chance to grow back.
Think adding an algae-eating blenny would be a good idea?
- thanks
Dave
"Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
...
> If your salinity and temperature match (or is within 1 degree
Fahrenheit),
> water changes shouldn't stress the tank's inhabitants too much. How often
are
> you estimating?
>
> Marc
>
>
> Dave wrote:
>
> > Hi Marc;
> >
> > Yes, but as I said before, I'm concerned that increasing the frequency
of my
> > water changes will stress the fish. What do you think ... should this
be a
> > concern?
> >
> > And as I said before, I'm using RO/DI, from a Spectrapure unit.
> >
> > - thanks again;
> > Dave
> >
> > "Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > If you prefer to just vacuum it out and replace it with freshly made
up
> > > sal****er, that is a better alternative, because you are sure to avoid
> > adding
> > > any spores into your tank. Hopefully you are using RO/DI?
> > >
> > > Marc
> > >
> > >
> > > Dave wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hi Marc;
> > > >
> > > > That was the idea with the fine mesh bag I mentioned, but it seems
to me
> > I
> > > > read somewhere that unless an extremely fine filter was used, algae
> > cells
> > > > will be put back into the water, in suspension, and the problem will
get
> > > > worse. My impression was that something like ordinary filter
> > floss/cotton
> > > > batting/etc. wouldn't be sufficient. Maybe this isn't correct ....
> > > >
> > > > thanks;
> > > >
> > > > - dave
> > > >
> > > > "Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
> > > > ...
> > > > > You can set up a bucket in front of the tank, and take a container
> > with
> > > > holes in
> > > > > the base. Fill it up with cotton batting, and use your pump
method to
> > > > suck out
> > > > > all you want. The batting will trap all the filth, and you can
safely
> > add
> > > > the
> > > > > water back to your tank.
> > > > >
> > > > > Marc
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Dave wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Hi folks;
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal,
Remora
> > HOB
> > > > > > skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue
> > actinic/10000K),
> > > > two
> > > > > > MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer.
One
> > > > sailfin
> > > > > > tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip
> > anemones
> > > > (was
> > > > > > one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails and a
> > > > red-legged
> > > > > > hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure
> > MPDI-25)
> > > > once a
> > > > > > week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable
> > phosphates, 1
> > > > ppm
> > > > > > nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure unit
for
> > about
> > > > two
> > > > > > months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap
> > Water
> > > > > > Filter.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with derbesia
> > algae. I
> > > > > > suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it just
> > comes
> > > > back.
> > > > > > It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least 80%
of
> > the
> > > > live
> > > > > > rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the
sand.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so I'd
> > rather
> > > > not
> > > > > > take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action should I
> > follow
> > > > to
> > > > > > get rid of the derbesia?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning the
water
> > > > through
> > > > > > a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to trap
the
> > algae
> > > > in
> > > > > > the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts of
the
> > > > algae
> > > > > > will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles
(?),
> > making
> > > > the
> > > > > > situation worse.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water
changes,
> > > > > > suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly water
> > changes,
> > > > but
> > > > > > am concerned about stressing the fish.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Any advice? Thanks in advance.
> > > > >
> > > > > --
> > > > > Personal Page:
> > http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> > > > > Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> > > > > Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Personal Page:
http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> > > Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> > > Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
> > >
> > >
>
> --
> Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
>
>
Marc Levenson
October 28th 03, 04:37 AM
That is hit or miss, using a Blenny. I tried it and within a week the fish
disappeared. 8(
I don't think your nitrates are the issue. Nor phosphates, according to your
original post. Just get in there and pluck, pluck, pluck. Rinse your hand in a
bowl of water after every pinch. Also, be sure to add some new hungry snails to
your tank, putting them where you need them to be.
Marc
Dave wrote:
> I'm considering doing water changes twice a week rather than once, only to
> remove more algae before it has a chance to grow back.
>
> Think adding an algae-eating blenny would be a good idea?
>
> - thanks
> Dave
>
> "Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
> ...
> > If your salinity and temperature match (or is within 1 degree
> Fahrenheit),
> > water changes shouldn't stress the tank's inhabitants too much. How often
> are
> > you estimating?
> >
> > Marc
> >
> >
> > Dave wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Marc;
> > >
> > > Yes, but as I said before, I'm concerned that increasing the frequency
> of my
> > > water changes will stress the fish. What do you think ... should this
> be a
> > > concern?
> > >
> > > And as I said before, I'm using RO/DI, from a Spectrapure unit.
> > >
> > > - thanks again;
> > > Dave
> > >
> > > "Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
> > > ...
> > > > If you prefer to just vacuum it out and replace it with freshly made
> up
> > > > sal****er, that is a better alternative, because you are sure to avoid
> > > adding
> > > > any spores into your tank. Hopefully you are using RO/DI?
> > > >
> > > > Marc
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Dave wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Hi Marc;
> > > > >
> > > > > That was the idea with the fine mesh bag I mentioned, but it seems
> to me
> > > I
> > > > > read somewhere that unless an extremely fine filter was used, algae
> > > cells
> > > > > will be put back into the water, in suspension, and the problem will
> get
> > > > > worse. My impression was that something like ordinary filter
> > > floss/cotton
> > > > > batting/etc. wouldn't be sufficient. Maybe this isn't correct ....
> > > > >
> > > > > thanks;
> > > > >
> > > > > - dave
> > > > >
> > > > > "Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
> > > > > ...
> > > > > > You can set up a bucket in front of the tank, and take a container
> > > with
> > > > > holes in
> > > > > > the base. Fill it up with cotton batting, and use your pump
> method to
> > > > > suck out
> > > > > > all you want. The batting will trap all the filth, and you can
> safely
> > > add
> > > > > the
> > > > > > water back to your tank.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Marc
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Dave wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hi folks;
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal,
> Remora
> > > HOB
> > > > > > > skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue
> > > actinic/10000K),
> > > > > two
> > > > > > > MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer.
> One
> > > > > sailfin
> > > > > > > tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip
> > > anemones
> > > > > (was
> > > > > > > one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails and a
> > > > > red-legged
> > > > > > > hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure
> > > MPDI-25)
> > > > > once a
> > > > > > > week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable
> > > phosphates, 1
> > > > > ppm
> > > > > > > nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure unit
> for
> > > about
> > > > > two
> > > > > > > months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap
> > > Water
> > > > > > > Filter.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with derbesia
> > > algae. I
> > > > > > > suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it just
> > > comes
> > > > > back.
> > > > > > > It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least 80%
> of
> > > the
> > > > > live
> > > > > > > rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the
> sand.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so I'd
> > > rather
> > > > > not
> > > > > > > take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action should I
> > > follow
> > > > > to
> > > > > > > get rid of the derbesia?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning the
> water
> > > > > through
> > > > > > > a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to trap
> the
> > > algae
> > > > > in
> > > > > > > the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts of
> the
> > > > > algae
> > > > > > > will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles
> (?),
> > > making
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > situation worse.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water
> changes,
> > > > > > > suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly water
> > > changes,
> > > > > but
> > > > > > > am concerned about stressing the fish.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Any advice? Thanks in advance.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --
> > > > > > Personal Page:
> > > http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> > > > > > Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> > > > > > Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Personal Page:
> http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> > > > Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> > > > Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> > --
> > Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> > Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> > Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
> >
> >
--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
Adam
October 28th 03, 06:02 AM
I have to agree with Marc about the snails I have just 2 Turbos and had 4
Astraea (until the hermit crabs and shrimp ate them). It took them all of
two days to clean house. I have since bought a Lawnmower Blenny. He tends
to help out but only really nibbles all day. The snails are the ticket. By
the way, mine is only a 30 gallon tank so you'll need to plan accordingly.
HTH
Ed
"Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
...
> That is hit or miss, using a Blenny. I tried it and within a week the
fish
> disappeared. 8(
>
> I don't think your nitrates are the issue. Nor phosphates, according to
your
> original post. Just get in there and pluck, pluck, pluck. Rinse your
hand in a
> bowl of water after every pinch. Also, be sure to add some new hungry
snails to
> your tank, putting them where you need them to be.
>
> Marc
>
>
> Dave wrote:
>
> > I'm considering doing water changes twice a week rather than once, only
to
> > remove more algae before it has a chance to grow back.
> >
> > Think adding an algae-eating blenny would be a good idea?
> >
> > - thanks
> > Dave
> >
> > "Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > If your salinity and temperature match (or is within 1 degree
> > Fahrenheit),
> > > water changes shouldn't stress the tank's inhabitants too much. How
often
> > are
> > > you estimating?
> > >
> > > Marc
> > >
> > >
> > > Dave wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hi Marc;
> > > >
> > > > Yes, but as I said before, I'm concerned that increasing the
frequency
> > of my
> > > > water changes will stress the fish. What do you think ... should
this
> > be a
> > > > concern?
> > > >
> > > > And as I said before, I'm using RO/DI, from a Spectrapure unit.
> > > >
> > > > - thanks again;
> > > > Dave
> > > >
> > > > "Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
> > > > ...
> > > > > If you prefer to just vacuum it out and replace it with freshly
made
> > up
> > > > > sal****er, that is a better alternative, because you are sure to
avoid
> > > > adding
> > > > > any spores into your tank. Hopefully you are using RO/DI?
> > > > >
> > > > > Marc
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Dave wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Hi Marc;
> > > > > >
> > > > > > That was the idea with the fine mesh bag I mentioned, but it
seems
> > to me
> > > > I
> > > > > > read somewhere that unless an extremely fine filter was used,
algae
> > > > cells
> > > > > > will be put back into the water, in suspension, and the problem
will
> > get
> > > > > > worse. My impression was that something like ordinary filter
> > > > floss/cotton
> > > > > > batting/etc. wouldn't be sufficient. Maybe this isn't correct
.....
> > > > > >
> > > > > > thanks;
> > > > > >
> > > > > > - dave
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
> > > > > > ...
> > > > > > > You can set up a bucket in front of the tank, and take a
container
> > > > with
> > > > > > holes in
> > > > > > > the base. Fill it up with cotton batting, and use your pump
> > method to
> > > > > > suck out
> > > > > > > all you want. The batting will trap all the filth, and you
can
> > safely
> > > > add
> > > > > > the
> > > > > > > water back to your tank.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Marc
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Dave wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Hi folks;
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > I've had my marine tank set up for about six months. 55gal,
> > Remora
> > > > HOB
> > > > > > > > skimmer, 67 lbs live rock, 260w lighting (50/50 blue
> > > > actinic/10000K),
> > > > > > two
> > > > > > > > MaxiJet 1200 powerheads, two inch aragonite reef sand layer.
> > One
> > > > > > sailfin
> > > > > > > > tang, one maroon clownfish, one engineer goby, two bubbletip
> > > > anemones
> > > > > > (was
> > > > > > > > one anemone until it split last week). Five turbo snails
and a
> > > > > > red-legged
> > > > > > > > hermit crab. 5% water changes with RO/DI water (Spectrapure
> > > > MPDI-25)
> > > > > > once a
> > > > > > > > week. Temp 76-79F, pH 7.9-8.2, s.g. 1.025. No detectable
> > > > phosphates, 1
> > > > > > ppm
> > > > > > > > nitrate (Salifert kits). I've been using the Spectrapure
unit
> > for
> > > > about
> > > > > > two
> > > > > > > > months; before that I was using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals
Tap
> > > > Water
> > > > > > > > Filter.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Over the last month or so I've had real troubles with
derbesia
> > > > algae. I
> > > > > > > > suction as much as I can out with my water changes, but it
just
> > > > comes
> > > > > > back.
> > > > > > > > It's growing along the back glass and is covering at least
80%
> > of
> > > > the
> > > > > > live
> > > > > > > > rock surface. Now it appears to be growing in places on the
> > sand.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > My live rock is anchored down with PVC piping and ties, so
I'd
> > > > rather
> > > > > > not
> > > > > > > > take it out to scrub it by hand. What course of action
should I
> > > > follow
> > > > > > to
> > > > > > > > get rid of the derbesia?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > I've been thinking about using a waterpump and suctioning
the
> > water
> > > > > > through
> > > > > > > > a fine mesh media bag and back into the tank, in order to
trap
> > the
> > > > algae
> > > > > > in
> > > > > > > > the bag and remove it, but have been told that small amounts
of
> > the
> > > > > > algae
> > > > > > > > will get back into the tank in the form of smaller particles
> > (?),
> > > > making
> > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > situation worse.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > I've also considered increasing the frequency of my water
> > changes,
> > > > > > > > suctioning out the algae as I've doing during my weekly
water
> > > > changes,
> > > > > > but
> > > > > > > > am concerned about stressing the fish.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Any advice? Thanks in advance.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > --
> > > > > > > Personal Page:
> > > > http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> > > > > > > Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> > > > > > > Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --
> > > > > Personal Page:
> > http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> > > > > Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> > > > > Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Personal Page:
http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> > > Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> > > Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
> > >
> > >
>
> --
> Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
>
>
~Vicki ~
October 28th 03, 02:50 PM
My turbo snails and coral beauty angel fish make short work of my algae.
Try more snails and you should be happy.
Vicki
CapFusion
October 28th 03, 05:55 PM
I would say you have some kind of nutrient in your tank or else why you have
so much algae battle.
Testing for nitrate will not be usefull since your algae are obsorbing it.
It should read close to zero or untracible.
How are your water circulation?
How does your Romora Skimmer skimmate look like? Does it get dark and
smelly?
I assumed your are using RO/DI water?
Adding more snail are one of many tool to battle algae but you are not
focusing on the source of the cause(s).
CapFusion,...
"Dave" > wrote in message
...
> I'm considering doing water changes twice a week rather than once, only to
> remove more algae before it has a chance to grow back.
>
> Think adding an algae-eating blenny would be a good idea?
>
> - thanks
> Dave
TW
October 28th 03, 09:42 PM
Dave;
I had to deal with this same problem in my tank for many months before I
won the battle. The problem is the source of nutrient that is feeding
the algae. If there is no food to feed the algae it will starve. There
is no two ways about it. You must find the source of the nutrient and
find a way to reduce it.
I would suggest that you do bigger water changes less often. 5% seems
low to me. As my tank is now more mature, I do less and less water
changes and my tank is doing better and better. When I do one, I change
20-25 gal on my 90 gal tank. My system has a sump and a refugium now so
the water capacity is somewhere near 120 gallons when I factor in the
displacement of the LR. So I am doing around 15-16% at a time. I only
do them once every two to three months. I used to do water changes
every two weeks.
I would also sugesst you beef up the biological filtration of your
system. Two inches of sand is not enough. I would add some LS. A DSB
will improve things in your tank. I saw immediate improvement in my
tank when I added more live sand. I had 2 inches of crushed coral to
start with. (that was the suggestion of the LFS at the time but that is
a whole story for another post) I did it slowly over a period of time.
I understand that it may be difficult for you to scrub your LR. In my
tank there were several rocks that were very difficult/impossible to
remove from the tank. I did find that removing them and scrubbing them
in a bucket of old tank water followed by a rinse in another tank of old
tank water worked the best at reducing the amount of algae. By " dump
the bucket" I meant after you scrub the rock pour the old water into the
toilet and get rid of it. When you rip the algae out in your tank you
will allow some algae to float free in your tank and it will just land
somewhere else and start growing.
As I said before it can be a real bitch to get rid of. I almost gave up
the hobby a few times in frustration. I also battled cyno and
dinoflagellates at different times. Both were difficult but neithor had
the staying power of hair algae.
Good Luck Todd
>
>
wolfhedd
October 28th 03, 10:57 PM
TEST PHOSPATES. mine were high.
wolfhedd
"TW" > wrote in message
...
> Dave;
>
> I had to deal with this same problem in my tank for many months before I
> won the battle. The problem is the source of nutrient that is feeding
> the algae. If there is no food to feed the algae it will starve. There
> is no two ways about it. You must find the source of the nutrient and
> find a way to reduce it.
>
> I would suggest that you do bigger water changes less often. 5% seems
> low to me. As my tank is now more mature, I do less and less water
> changes and my tank is doing better and better. When I do one, I change
> 20-25 gal on my 90 gal tank. My system has a sump and a refugium now so
> the water capacity is somewhere near 120 gallons when I factor in the
> displacement of the LR. So I am doing around 15-16% at a time. I only
> do them once every two to three months. I used to do water changes
> every two weeks.
> I would also sugesst you beef up the biological filtration of your
> system. Two inches of sand is not enough. I would add some LS. A DSB
> will improve things in your tank. I saw immediate improvement in my
> tank when I added more live sand. I had 2 inches of crushed coral to
> start with. (that was the suggestion of the LFS at the time but that is
> a whole story for another post) I did it slowly over a period of time.
>
> I understand that it may be difficult for you to scrub your LR. In my
> tank there were several rocks that were very difficult/impossible to
> remove from the tank. I did find that removing them and scrubbing them
> in a bucket of old tank water followed by a rinse in another tank of old
> tank water worked the best at reducing the amount of algae. By " dump
> the bucket" I meant after you scrub the rock pour the old water into the
> toilet and get rid of it. When you rip the algae out in your tank you
> will allow some algae to float free in your tank and it will just land
> somewhere else and start growing.
>
> As I said before it can be a real bitch to get rid of. I almost gave up
> the hobby a few times in frustration. I also battled cyno and
> dinoflagellates at different times. Both were difficult but neithor had
> the staying power of hair algae.
>
> Good Luck Todd
>
> >
> >
>
vBulletin® v3.6.4, Copyright ©2000-2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.