Pond Heaters for Sale

[Craig]

Hi,
I have several Coates heaters for sale that have the controls removed
for use as a pond heater. These are 11 kW heaters at 208/230v. Since
there are no controls, a seperate low temperature thermostat and
contactor or a manual switch will be needed to start the unit. They
do contain a flow switch that can be wired into the contactors or
manual switch for safety in case of pump failure. These are brand new
in their original packaging.

Link to manufactures web site:
http://www.coatesheaters.com/CoatesWeb/st_series_heaters.htm

This link shows a typical list price for these units:
http://www.pool-spa-supplies.com/Catalog/91.pdf

I need to clear out some garage space, so my price for these is $200
each. I will cover shipping costs. Paypal, money order, or cashiers
check preferred. I will accept a personal check, but funds need to
clear first. We can work the details out via e-mail.



Thanks,
Craig

[Rich]

DO YOU KNOW HOW BIG THEY ARE
you'll boil the water.




"Craig" > wrote in message
om...
> Hi,
> I have several Coates heaters for sale that have the controls removed
> for use as a pond heater. These are 11 kW heaters at 208/230v. Since
> there are no controls, a seperate low temperature thermostat and
> contactor or a manual switch will be needed to start the unit. They
> do contain a flow switch that can be wired into the contactors or
> manual switch for safety in case of pump failure. These are brand new
> in their original packaging.
>
> Link to manufactures web site:
> http://www.coatesheaters.com/CoatesWeb/st_series_heaters.htm
>
> This link shows a typical list price for these units:
> http://www.pool-spa-supplies.com/Catalog/91.pdf
>
> I need to clear out some garage space, so my price for these is $200
> each. I will cover shipping costs. Paypal, money order, or cashiers
> check preferred. I will accept a personal check, but funds need to
> clear first. We can work the details out via e-mail.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
> Craig

[Jaques d'Alltrades]

The message >
from (Craig) contains these words:

> I have several Coates heaters for sale that have the controls removed
> for use as a pond heater. These are 11 kW heaters at 208/230v. Since
> there are no controls, a seperate low temperature thermostat and
> contactor or a manual switch will be needed to start the unit. They
> do contain a flow switch that can be wired into the contactors or
> manual switch for safety in case of pump failure. These are brand new
> in their original packaging.

Do you really mean kW?

A thousandth of a watt won't accomplish much.... (ITYM KW)

--
Rusty
Open the creaking gate to make a horrid.squeak, then lower the foobar.
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/

[KenCo]

Jaques d'Alltrades wrote:
> The message >
> from (Craig) contains these words:
>
>
>>I have several Coates heaters for sale that have the controls removed
>>for use as a pond heater. These are 11 kW heaters at 208/230v. Since
>>there are no controls, a seperate low temperature thermostat and
>>contactor or a manual switch will be needed to start the unit. They
>>do contain a flow switch that can be wired into the contactors or
>>manual switch for safety in case of pump failure. These are brand new
>>in their original packaging.
>
>
> Do you really mean kW?
>
> A thousandth of a watt won't accomplish much.... (ITYM KW)
>

Kw = Kilowatt, 1000 watts

they are 11,000 watts/24 Amps/220V and make 37,500 BTU!
thats enough for a small house ;)




--
--
http://www.kencofish.com Ken Arnold,
401-781-9642 cell 401-225-0556
Importer/Exporter of Goldfish,Koi,rare Predators
Shipping to legal states/countries only!
Permalon liners, Oase & Supreme Pondmaster pumps


Linux (SuSE 8.2) user #329121
Please Note: No trees or animals were harmed in the
sending of this contaminant free message We do concede
that a signicant number of electrons may have been
inconvenienced ;)

[Jaques d'Alltrades]

The message >
from "Pond Newbie" > contains these words:

> http://www.eia.doe.gov/kids/electricity.html

> kW = Kilowatts which equal 1000 watts, not a thousandth of a watt (at
> least here in the
> US).

> These heaters are designed for Jacuzzi type spas and pools.

kW - thousandth of a watt
KW - thousand watts

--
Rusty
Open the creaking gate to make a horrid.squeak, then lower the foobar.
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/

[John Bachman]

On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 17:24:44 GMT, Jaques d'Alltrades
> wrote:

>The message >
>from "Pond Newbie" > contains these words:
>
>> http://www.eia.doe.gov/kids/electricity.html
>
>> kW = Kilowatts which equal 1000 watts, not a thousandth of a watt (at
>> least here in the
>> US).
>
>> These heaters are designed for Jacuzzi type spas and pools.
>
>kW - thousandth of a watt
>KW - thousand watts

Jeez, and I have been hanging around electronics for more than 50
years and not once did I hear the term "thousandth of a watt". Until
now.

Why would anyone even be interested in the amount of power described
by a "thousandth of a watt"? Far too insignificant to be of any
interest to anyone.

kW = KW = kilo watt = 1,000 watts.

JMHO

John

[John Bachman]

On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 13:48:31 -0600, "Pond Newbie"
> wrote:

>Thanks John.
>
>I had never heard that lowercase k + W meant "thousandth" either.
>
>It is on my electric bill every month, as kWh (Kilowatt hours) of usage. This is Kilowatts
>(1000 watts) per hour, used.
>
>http://en2.wikipedia.org/wiki/KWh
>
>Perhaps they have some odd standard in the UK?

According to my friends there the UK has a lot of odd things,
including standards. But I still think that it is a kilowatt.

John

[Jaques d'Alltrades]

The message >
from John Bachman > contains these words:

> According to my friends there the UK has a lot of odd things,
> including standards. But I still think that it is a kilowatt.

mW = milliwatt

MW = megawatt

--
Rusty
Open the creaking gate to make a horrid.squeak, then lower the foobar.
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/

[Craig]

KenCo > wrote in message >...
> Jaques d'Alltrades wrote:
> > The message >
> > from (Craig) contains these words:
> >
> >
> >>I have several Coates heaters for sale that have the controls removed
> >>for use as a pond heater. These are 11 kW heaters at 208/230v. Since
> >>there are no controls, a seperate low temperature thermostat and
> >>contactor or a manual switch will be needed to start the unit. They
> >>do contain a flow switch that can be wired into the contactors or
> >>manual switch for safety in case of pump failure. These are brand new
> >>in their original packaging.
> >
> >
> > Do you really mean kW?
> >
> > A thousandth of a watt won't accomplish much.... (ITYM KW)
> >
>
> Kw = Kilowatt, 1000 watts
>
> they are 11,000 watts/24 Amps/220V and make 37,500 BTU!
> thats enough for a small house ;)
>


True! If you would like one to heat your 25,000 gallon pool, this
would do nicely as well.

I should explain further though....
These heaters have two elements in them and are designed for 208/240
single phase power. You would have several options. It seems as
though we have a couple EE's here so I am sure they can come up with a
couple of different ways, but potentially you could run half of the
heater on 115v power. This would also allow for a reasonable current
draw for a normal circuit. This larger heater would only need to be
on for a short period of time to increase the water temperature. I
don't think it would be an issue, but you might want to increase the
differential of the thermostat to prevent short cycling of the heater.
Under most circumstances cycling does not adversely affect an
electric heater.

Technically I suppose KW is more appropriate. In industry I see it
written both ways.

[THE Old Man]

On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 11:45:32 GMT, Jaques d'Alltrades
> wrote:

>The message >
>from (Craig) contains these words:
>
>> I have several Coates heaters for sale that have the controls removed
>> for use as a pond heater. These are 11 kW heaters at 208/230v. Since
>> there are no controls, a seperate low temperature thermostat and
>> contactor or a manual switch will be needed to start the unit. They
>> do contain a flow switch that can be wired into the contactors or
>> manual switch for safety in case of pump failure. These are brand new
>> in their original packaging.
>
>Do you really mean kW?
>
>A thousandth of a watt won't accomplish much.... (ITYM KW)

1/1000 of a watt = milliwatt.

[THE Old Man]

On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 23:05:00 GMT, Jaques d'Alltrades
> wrote:

>The message >
>from John Bachman > contains these words:
>
>> According to my friends there the UK has a lot of odd things,
>> including standards. But I still think that it is a kilowatt.
>
>mW = milliwatt
>MW = megawatt

kw or KW or kW = 1000 watts
mW = milliwatt = 1/1000 watt
MW = megawatt = 1,000,000 watts

Someone asked who would need a milliwatt of power ... many transistor
and RF circuits would use very low powers.

[Jaques d'Alltrades]

The message >
from (Craig) contains these words:

> > they are 11,000 watts/24 Amps/220V and make 37,500 BTU!
> > thats enough for a small house ;)
> >
> True! If you would like one to heat your 25,000 gallon pool, this
> would do nicely as well.

> I should explain further though....
> These heaters have two elements in them and are designed for 208/240
> single phase power. You would have several options. It seems as
> though we have a couple EE's here so I am sure they can come up with a
> couple of different ways, but potentially you could run half of the
> heater on 115v power. This would also allow for a reasonable current
> draw for a normal circuit. This larger heater would only need to be
> on for a short period of time to increase the water temperature. I
> don't think it would be an issue, but you might want to increase the
> differential of the thermostat to prevent short cycling of the heater.
> Under most circumstances cycling does not adversely affect an
> electric heater.

I like the idea: I've always had a hankering for excavating a big tank,
insulating under and beside it and heating it (with solar energy as much
as possible) and constructing a greenhouse/polytunnel over it.

This would take care of the greenhouse heating at night and during the
colder times of the year, and humidity could be regulated by ducting
ventilation through the airspace at the top of the tank.

Being dark in the tank, algæ should not be a problem.

However, later and more fanciful thoughts ran to creating a big pond
within a polytunnel and heating the water the same way, circulating it
through a barleystraw filter, then through a sand filter, and growing
tropical waterplants, keeping fish, and on the banks on either side
growing tropical - or at least sub-tropical fruits and vegetables.

To think that I once had the room for this project but no money to do
it, whereas now I don't have the room but could afford to play games....

--
Rusty
Open the creaking gate to make a horrid.squeak, then lower the foobar.
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/

[tom A]

HI

this may be kicking a dead horse, trying to make him run,

but what I do to keep a breathing hole in my pond (keep the water from
freezing) is I use a one of the reflector shop lights with a standard
60W or 100 W bulb in it, I suspend the light over the pond, with the
reflector just touching the top of the water. ( even though the bulb
may touch the water, it will not hurt it, or cause it to break, if
the bulb is turned on after it is in contact with the water)

BUT if you turn the light on and it gets hot then comes in contact
with the water it will burst, it seems that a HOT bulb and cold water
don't MIX.

I have been doing this for several years with no problems and it will
maintain a 12" hole in the ice, even though the surrounding ice is 2"
to 3 " thick.

try it you may like it


tom A.
Please check my WeB SiTe: www.kinetickites.com
or call me @ 405-722-KITE (5483)
or E-mail @