Pond UV Clarifier

[Coffee]

Do these really work? Won't they harm the beneficial bacteria needed in the
filter?
Patty

[BenignVanilla]

"Coffee" > wrote in message
...
> Do these really work? Won't they harm the beneficial bacteria needed in
the
> filter?
> Patty

Some say yes, some say no, some say yes but why use one? UV clarification is
a religious topic not nearly as fundamental as "to salt or not to salt" but
it's up there on the top 10. Many ponders believe that a proper balance in
your pond negates the need for a UV clarifier. Those that prefer UV
clarifiers swear by them. There is really no right or wrong answer. Some
people like mechanical bio-filters, other like vegetable filters. Neither is
right nor wrong.

As for your beneficial bacteria...certainly bacteria flowing through the UV
could be and probably would be harmed, but the bulk of your filtration
bacteria is sedintary. They like to sit down on a rock and watch the pond go
by, snatching their meals as they float by. So unless you are moving your
ponds walls, rocks, etc, thru the UV, you have nothing to worry about.

BV.

Disclaimer: I am a VF user...and do not use nor intend to ever use a UV
clarifier. Natural ponding, baby, natural ponding.

[BenignVanilla]

"Coffee" > wrote in message
...
> Do these really work? Won't they harm the beneficial bacteria needed in
the
> filter?
> Patty

Some say yes, some say no, some say yes but why use one? UV clarification is
a religious topic not nearly as fundamental as "to salt or not to salt" but
it's up there on the top 10. Many ponders believe that a proper balance in
your pond negates the need for a UV clarifier. Those that prefer UV
clarifiers swear by them. There is really no right or wrong answer. Some
people like mechanical bio-filters, other like vegetable filters. Neither is
right nor wrong.

As for your beneficial bacteria...certainly bacteria flowing through the UV
could be and probably would be harmed, but the bulk of your filtration
bacteria is sedintary. They like to sit down on a rock and watch the pond go
by, snatching their meals as they float by. So unless you are moving your
ponds walls, rocks, etc, thru the UV, you have nothing to worry about.

BV.

Disclaimer: I am a VF user...and do not use nor intend to ever use a UV
clarifier. Natural ponding, baby, natural ponding.

[Ka30P]

There are many types of ponders and ponding.
BV says natural ponding. That's what I do but
I suspect I'm a natural ponder because I am,
at heart, a lazy ponder... I don't want to fuss
with a UV line and change the light bulb and
worry about it. Probably why I still don't have
a skimmer, I'd have to skim it!

That said... the universal problem of green water is what moves folks to UV
lights so I will post my general list of green water fighting tips, of which UV
is one of them.


Algae fighting tips
~ Nutrients for algae are sun, new water, fish waste, fertilized run off,
rotting plants, blown in dirt.
~ New ponds and spring ponds need time for plants to get established, algae is
quicker at getting going.
~ add plants, of any kind, in the pond. Especially underwater plants.
~ Shade is good - provided by lily pads, floating plants or artificial shade
for part of the day.
~ LOW fish stocking (20 gallons per goldfish, 100 per koi after starting with
1,000 gallons) and *not* overfeeding the fish. Too many fish and too much
feeding is probably responsible for most pea soup water, followed closely by
too much decaying plant matter, sludge and overall gunk in the water
~ adding a combination mechanical and biological filter to screen gunk and
convert fishy ammonia waste.
~ build a veggie filter, to run water through plants, as easy as floating water
hyacinth in your filter.
~ clean up dead plant matter and screen for falling leaves
in the fall.
~ water movement, occasional water changes of 10%
~ add a sludge consumer, concentrated bacteria.
many rec.ponders use http://www.united-tech.com/m-aq4u-toc.html
~ building ponds with bottom drains and skimmers.
~ do not use algaecides, they only make lots of suddenly dead algae
and that will feed the next algae bloom.
~ do not worry about algae that grows on things (substrate algae) this is good
for a pond
~ gently remove string algae
~ UV lights work on suspended algae (green water) - does cost some $$.
~ patience and time ;-)


kathy :-)
<A HREF="http://www.onceuponapond.com/">Once upon a pond</A>

[Ka30P]

There are many types of ponders and ponding.
BV says natural ponding. That's what I do but
I suspect I'm a natural ponder because I am,
at heart, a lazy ponder... I don't want to fuss
with a UV line and change the light bulb and
worry about it. Probably why I still don't have
a skimmer, I'd have to skim it!

That said... the universal problem of green water is what moves folks to UV
lights so I will post my general list of green water fighting tips, of which UV
is one of them.


Algae fighting tips
~ Nutrients for algae are sun, new water, fish waste, fertilized run off,
rotting plants, blown in dirt.
~ New ponds and spring ponds need time for plants to get established, algae is
quicker at getting going.
~ add plants, of any kind, in the pond. Especially underwater plants.
~ Shade is good - provided by lily pads, floating plants or artificial shade
for part of the day.
~ LOW fish stocking (20 gallons per goldfish, 100 per koi after starting with
1,000 gallons) and *not* overfeeding the fish. Too many fish and too much
feeding is probably responsible for most pea soup water, followed closely by
too much decaying plant matter, sludge and overall gunk in the water
~ adding a combination mechanical and biological filter to screen gunk and
convert fishy ammonia waste.
~ build a veggie filter, to run water through plants, as easy as floating water
hyacinth in your filter.
~ clean up dead plant matter and screen for falling leaves
in the fall.
~ water movement, occasional water changes of 10%
~ add a sludge consumer, concentrated bacteria.
many rec.ponders use http://www.united-tech.com/m-aq4u-toc.html
~ building ponds with bottom drains and skimmers.
~ do not use algaecides, they only make lots of suddenly dead algae
and that will feed the next algae bloom.
~ do not worry about algae that grows on things (substrate algae) this is good
for a pond
~ gently remove string algae
~ UV lights work on suspended algae (green water) - does cost some $$.
~ patience and time ;-)


kathy :-)
<A HREF="http://www.onceuponapond.com/">Once upon a pond</A>

[Coffee]

I've had the pond for 12yrs now just wondering about the UV. I do not get
any algae to speak of except over the waterfall at times. I read where the
UV also fights off parasites and such.
Just wanted some views on the subject. Might mention the fish are 12yrs old
too.
Patty
"Ka30P" > wrote in message
...
>
> There are many types of ponders and ponding.
> BV says natural ponding. That's what I do but
> I suspect I'm a natural ponder because I am,
> at heart, a lazy ponder... I don't want to fuss
> with a UV line and change the light bulb and
> worry about it. Probably why I still don't have
> a skimmer, I'd have to skim it!
>
> That said... the universal problem of green water is what moves folks to
UV
> lights so I will post my general list of green water fighting tips, of
which UV
> is one of them.
>
>
> Algae fighting tips
> ~ Nutrients for algae are sun, new water, fish waste, fertilized run off,
> rotting plants, blown in dirt.
> ~ New ponds and spring ponds need time for plants to get established,
algae is
> quicker at getting going.
> ~ add plants, of any kind, in the pond. Especially underwater plants.
> ~ Shade is good - provided by lily pads, floating plants or artificial
shade
> for part of the day.
> ~ LOW fish stocking (20 gallons per goldfish, 100 per koi after starting
with
> 1,000 gallons) and *not* overfeeding the fish. Too many fish and too much
> feeding is probably responsible for most pea soup water, followed closely
by
> too much decaying plant matter, sludge and overall gunk in the water
> ~ adding a combination mechanical and biological filter to screen gunk and
> convert fishy ammonia waste.
> ~ build a veggie filter, to run water through plants, as easy as floating
water
> hyacinth in your filter.
> ~ clean up dead plant matter and screen for falling leaves
> in the fall.
> ~ water movement, occasional water changes of 10%
> ~ add a sludge consumer, concentrated bacteria.
> many rec.ponders use http://www.united-tech.com/m-aq4u-toc.html
> ~ building ponds with bottom drains and skimmers.
> ~ do not use algaecides, they only make lots of suddenly dead algae
> and that will feed the next algae bloom.
> ~ do not worry about algae that grows on things (substrate algae) this is
good
> for a pond
> ~ gently remove string algae
> ~ UV lights work on suspended algae (green water) - does cost some $$.
> ~ patience and time ;-)
>
>
> kathy :-)
> <A HREF="http://www.onceuponapond.com/">Once upon a pond</A>

[Coffee]

I've had the pond for 12yrs now just wondering about the UV. I do not get
any algae to speak of except over the waterfall at times. I read where the
UV also fights off parasites and such.
Just wanted some views on the subject. Might mention the fish are 12yrs old
too.
Patty
"Ka30P" > wrote in message
...
>
> There are many types of ponders and ponding.
> BV says natural ponding. That's what I do but
> I suspect I'm a natural ponder because I am,
> at heart, a lazy ponder... I don't want to fuss
> with a UV line and change the light bulb and
> worry about it. Probably why I still don't have
> a skimmer, I'd have to skim it!
>
> That said... the universal problem of green water is what moves folks to
UV
> lights so I will post my general list of green water fighting tips, of
which UV
> is one of them.
>
>
> Algae fighting tips
> ~ Nutrients for algae are sun, new water, fish waste, fertilized run off,
> rotting plants, blown in dirt.
> ~ New ponds and spring ponds need time for plants to get established,
algae is
> quicker at getting going.
> ~ add plants, of any kind, in the pond. Especially underwater plants.
> ~ Shade is good - provided by lily pads, floating plants or artificial
shade
> for part of the day.
> ~ LOW fish stocking (20 gallons per goldfish, 100 per koi after starting
with
> 1,000 gallons) and *not* overfeeding the fish. Too many fish and too much
> feeding is probably responsible for most pea soup water, followed closely
by
> too much decaying plant matter, sludge and overall gunk in the water
> ~ adding a combination mechanical and biological filter to screen gunk and
> convert fishy ammonia waste.
> ~ build a veggie filter, to run water through plants, as easy as floating
water
> hyacinth in your filter.
> ~ clean up dead plant matter and screen for falling leaves
> in the fall.
> ~ water movement, occasional water changes of 10%
> ~ add a sludge consumer, concentrated bacteria.
> many rec.ponders use http://www.united-tech.com/m-aq4u-toc.html
> ~ building ponds with bottom drains and skimmers.
> ~ do not use algaecides, they only make lots of suddenly dead algae
> and that will feed the next algae bloom.
> ~ do not worry about algae that grows on things (substrate algae) this is
good
> for a pond
> ~ gently remove string algae
> ~ UV lights work on suspended algae (green water) - does cost some $$.
> ~ patience and time ;-)
>
>
> kathy :-)
> <A HREF="http://www.onceuponapond.com/">Once upon a pond</A>

[joe]

On 3/12/04 1:02 PM, "Coffee" > wrote:

> Do these really work?

Yes - very well. But not on string algae.


> Won't they harm the beneficial bacteria needed in the
> filter?

Yeah, some that goes through, but not enough to make a serious dent.

I have one that I used and turned off last July to see what would happen. At
that point my pond was well planted. Guess what? No green water. It's been
off ever since. That's not to say I'll get rid of it. Natural ponding is
fine and dandy, but I want to see my fish and rocks. If a tinge of green
obscures my view poof! Whatever technology I can use to attain that goal I
will use as required.

Joe





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[joe]

On 3/12/04 1:02 PM, "Coffee" > wrote:

> Do these really work?

Yes - very well. But not on string algae.


> Won't they harm the beneficial bacteria needed in the
> filter?

Yeah, some that goes through, but not enough to make a serious dent.

I have one that I used and turned off last July to see what would happen. At
that point my pond was well planted. Guess what? No green water. It's been
off ever since. That's not to say I'll get rid of it. Natural ponding is
fine and dandy, but I want to see my fish and rocks. If a tinge of green
obscures my view poof! Whatever technology I can use to attain that goal I
will use as required.

Joe





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http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

[Nedra]

Your pond is 12years old with fish as old and you are thinking
about getting a UV? I would say not to mess with success. - Just leave
well enough alone and all that good stuff.

You mean you can't think of
any other place to spend $$$ ? LOL!
Laughing with ya' ;O)

Nedra in Missouri
Zone 6
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836
http://community.webshots.com/user/nedra118

"Coffee" > wrote in message
...
> I've had the pond for 12yrs now just wondering about the UV. I do not get
> any algae to speak of except over the waterfall at times. I read where the
> UV also fights off parasites and such.
> Just wanted some views on the subject. Might mention the fish are 12yrs
old
> too.
> Patty
> "Ka30P" > wrote in message
> ...
> >
> > There are many types of ponders and ponding.
> > BV says natural ponding. That's what I do but
> > I suspect I'm a natural ponder because I am,
> > at heart, a lazy ponder... I don't want to fuss
> > with a UV line and change the light bulb and
> > worry about it. Probably why I still don't have
> > a skimmer, I'd have to skim it!
> >
> > That said... the universal problem of green water is what moves folks to
> UV
> > lights so I will post my general list of green water fighting tips, of
> which UV
> > is one of them.
> >
> >
> > Algae fighting tips
> > ~ Nutrients for algae are sun, new water, fish waste, fertilized run
off,
> > rotting plants, blown in dirt.
> > ~ New ponds and spring ponds need time for plants to get established,
> algae is
> > quicker at getting going.
> > ~ add plants, of any kind, in the pond. Especially underwater plants.
> > ~ Shade is good - provided by lily pads, floating plants or artificial
> shade
> > for part of the day.
> > ~ LOW fish stocking (20 gallons per goldfish, 100 per koi after starting
> with
> > 1,000 gallons) and *not* overfeeding the fish. Too many fish and too
much
> > feeding is probably responsible for most pea soup water, followed
closely
> by
> > too much decaying plant matter, sludge and overall gunk in the water
> > ~ adding a combination mechanical and biological filter to screen gunk
and
> > convert fishy ammonia waste.
> > ~ build a veggie filter, to run water through plants, as easy as
floating
> water
> > hyacinth in your filter.
> > ~ clean up dead plant matter and screen for falling leaves
> > in the fall.
> > ~ water movement, occasional water changes of 10%
> > ~ add a sludge consumer, concentrated bacteria.
> > many rec.ponders use http://www.united-tech.com/m-aq4u-toc.html
> > ~ building ponds with bottom drains and skimmers.
> > ~ do not use algaecides, they only make lots of suddenly dead algae
> > and that will feed the next algae bloom.
> > ~ do not worry about algae that grows on things (substrate algae) this
is
> good
> > for a pond
> > ~ gently remove string algae
> > ~ UV lights work on suspended algae (green water) - does cost some $$.
> > ~ patience and time ;-)
> >
> >
> > kathy :-)
> > <A HREF="http://www.onceuponapond.com/">Once upon a pond</A>
>
>

[Nedra]

Your pond is 12years old with fish as old and you are thinking
about getting a UV? I would say not to mess with success. - Just leave
well enough alone and all that good stuff.

You mean you can't think of
any other place to spend $$$ ? LOL!
Laughing with ya' ;O)

Nedra in Missouri
Zone 6
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836
http://community.webshots.com/user/nedra118

"Coffee" > wrote in message
...
> I've had the pond for 12yrs now just wondering about the UV. I do not get
> any algae to speak of except over the waterfall at times. I read where the
> UV also fights off parasites and such.
> Just wanted some views on the subject. Might mention the fish are 12yrs
old
> too.
> Patty
> "Ka30P" > wrote in message
> ...
> >
> > There are many types of ponders and ponding.
> > BV says natural ponding. That's what I do but
> > I suspect I'm a natural ponder because I am,
> > at heart, a lazy ponder... I don't want to fuss
> > with a UV line and change the light bulb and
> > worry about it. Probably why I still don't have
> > a skimmer, I'd have to skim it!
> >
> > That said... the universal problem of green water is what moves folks to
> UV
> > lights so I will post my general list of green water fighting tips, of
> which UV
> > is one of them.
> >
> >
> > Algae fighting tips
> > ~ Nutrients for algae are sun, new water, fish waste, fertilized run
off,
> > rotting plants, blown in dirt.
> > ~ New ponds and spring ponds need time for plants to get established,
> algae is
> > quicker at getting going.
> > ~ add plants, of any kind, in the pond. Especially underwater plants.
> > ~ Shade is good - provided by lily pads, floating plants or artificial
> shade
> > for part of the day.
> > ~ LOW fish stocking (20 gallons per goldfish, 100 per koi after starting
> with
> > 1,000 gallons) and *not* overfeeding the fish. Too many fish and too
much
> > feeding is probably responsible for most pea soup water, followed
closely
> by
> > too much decaying plant matter, sludge and overall gunk in the water
> > ~ adding a combination mechanical and biological filter to screen gunk
and
> > convert fishy ammonia waste.
> > ~ build a veggie filter, to run water through plants, as easy as
floating
> water
> > hyacinth in your filter.
> > ~ clean up dead plant matter and screen for falling leaves
> > in the fall.
> > ~ water movement, occasional water changes of 10%
> > ~ add a sludge consumer, concentrated bacteria.
> > many rec.ponders use http://www.united-tech.com/m-aq4u-toc.html
> > ~ building ponds with bottom drains and skimmers.
> > ~ do not use algaecides, they only make lots of suddenly dead algae
> > and that will feed the next algae bloom.
> > ~ do not worry about algae that grows on things (substrate algae) this
is
> good
> > for a pond
> > ~ gently remove string algae
> > ~ UV lights work on suspended algae (green water) - does cost some $$.
> > ~ patience and time ;-)
> >
> >
> > kathy :-)
> > <A HREF="http://www.onceuponapond.com/">Once upon a pond</A>
>
>

[Hal]

On Fri, 12 Mar 2004 21:02:03 GMT, "Coffee"
> wrote:

>Do these really work? Won't they harm the beneficial bacteria needed in the
>filter?
>Patty
>
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/popup.techTalkDetail/ttid/80
Ultraviolet light can be very effective at eliminating viruses,
bacteria, algae and fungi. The required UV exposure rate to irradiate
common bacteria is 15,000 µW-sec/cm2, while the required UV exposure
for waterborne algae is 22,000 µW-sec/cm2. Since it is the intensity
of light that is doing the killing, we must know how much light energy
to use and how much is reaching the target. Just as some sunglasses
and sunscreens reduce UV intensity, so does discolored water,
turbidity, dirty quartz sleeves, and even some dissolved salts, such
as sodium thiosulfate. Even lamp temperatures can reduce output when
operated in cold water (110°F gives maximum UV output).

Page 449 of their 2002 hard copy catalog there is a chart giving
exposure for different micro organisms. Sorry I couldn't find it on
the web.

The bacteria attached to the filter is in no danger since it isn't
passing through the UV, but it may take a long time to build up on the
filter, I wouldn't know.

A fish farmer that used to hang around here mentioned they kill off
microaquatics eaten by hatching fry. So, if you use UV and want to
raise fry you need to feed them and he suggested boiled egg yoke.

Regards,

Hal

[Hal]

On Fri, 12 Mar 2004 21:02:03 GMT, "Coffee"
> wrote:

>Do these really work? Won't they harm the beneficial bacteria needed in the
>filter?
>Patty
>
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/popup.techTalkDetail/ttid/80
Ultraviolet light can be very effective at eliminating viruses,
bacteria, algae and fungi. The required UV exposure rate to irradiate
common bacteria is 15,000 µW-sec/cm2, while the required UV exposure
for waterborne algae is 22,000 µW-sec/cm2. Since it is the intensity
of light that is doing the killing, we must know how much light energy
to use and how much is reaching the target. Just as some sunglasses
and sunscreens reduce UV intensity, so does discolored water,
turbidity, dirty quartz sleeves, and even some dissolved salts, such
as sodium thiosulfate. Even lamp temperatures can reduce output when
operated in cold water (110°F gives maximum UV output).

Page 449 of their 2002 hard copy catalog there is a chart giving
exposure for different micro organisms. Sorry I couldn't find it on
the web.

The bacteria attached to the filter is in no danger since it isn't
passing through the UV, but it may take a long time to build up on the
filter, I wouldn't know.

A fish farmer that used to hang around here mentioned they kill off
microaquatics eaten by hatching fry. So, if you use UV and want to
raise fry you need to feed them and he suggested boiled egg yoke.

Regards,

Hal

[Howard]

"Coffee" > wrote in
:

> Do these really work? Won't they harm the beneficial bacteria needed
> in the filter?
> Patty
>
>
>

Do these work, I can safely say yes, I put one into my pond last year when
I had pea soup and in a week it was clear, this year it goes in at the
beginning of the season.

[Howard]

"Coffee" > wrote in
:

> Do these really work? Won't they harm the beneficial bacteria needed
> in the filter?
> Patty
>
>
>

Do these work, I can safely say yes, I put one into my pond last year when
I had pea soup and in a week it was clear, this year it goes in at the
beginning of the season.

[~ jan JJsPond.us]

With Nedra on this, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. :o) But you can send
that extra money to me. :o)))) ~ jan

>On Fri, 12 Mar 2004 23:00:55 GMT, "Coffee" > wrote:

>I've had the pond for 12yrs now just wondering about the UV. I do not get
>any algae to speak of except over the waterfall at times. I read where the
>UV also fights off parasites and such.
>Just wanted some views on the subject. Might mention the fish are 12yrs old
>too.
>Patty
>"Ka30P" > wrote in message
...
>>
>> There are many types of ponders and ponding.
>> BV says natural ponding. That's what I do but
>> I suspect I'm a natural ponder because I am,
>> at heart, a lazy ponder... I don't want to fuss
>> with a UV line and change the light bulb and
>> worry about it. Probably why I still don't have
>> a skimmer, I'd have to skim it!
>>
>> That said... the universal problem of green water is what moves folks to
>UV
>> lights so I will post my general list of green water fighting tips, of
>which UV
>> is one of them.
>>
>>
>> Algae fighting tips
>> ~ Nutrients for algae are sun, new water, fish waste, fertilized run off,
>> rotting plants, blown in dirt.
>> ~ New ponds and spring ponds need time for plants to get established,
>algae is
>> quicker at getting going.
>> ~ add plants, of any kind, in the pond. Especially underwater plants.
>> ~ Shade is good - provided by lily pads, floating plants or artificial
>shade
>> for part of the day.
>> ~ LOW fish stocking (20 gallons per goldfish, 100 per koi after starting
>with
>> 1,000 gallons) and *not* overfeeding the fish. Too many fish and too much
>> feeding is probably responsible for most pea soup water, followed closely
>by
>> too much decaying plant matter, sludge and overall gunk in the water
>> ~ adding a combination mechanical and biological filter to screen gunk and
>> convert fishy ammonia waste.
>> ~ build a veggie filter, to run water through plants, as easy as floating
>water
>> hyacinth in your filter.
>> ~ clean up dead plant matter and screen for falling leaves
>> in the fall.
>> ~ water movement, occasional water changes of 10%
>> ~ add a sludge consumer, concentrated bacteria.
>> many rec.ponders use http://www.united-tech.com/m-aq4u-toc.html
>> ~ building ponds with bottom drains and skimmers.
>> ~ do not use algaecides, they only make lots of suddenly dead algae
>> and that will feed the next algae bloom.
>> ~ do not worry about algae that grows on things (substrate algae) this is
>good
>> for a pond
>> ~ gently remove string algae
>> ~ UV lights work on suspended algae (green water) - does cost some $$.
>> ~ patience and time ;-)
>>
>>
>> kathy :-)
>> <A HREF="http://www.onceuponapond.com/">Once upon a pond</A>
>

~ jan

[~ jan JJsPond.us]

With Nedra on this, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. :o) But you can send
that extra money to me. :o)))) ~ jan

>On Fri, 12 Mar 2004 23:00:55 GMT, "Coffee" > wrote:

>I've had the pond for 12yrs now just wondering about the UV. I do not get
>any algae to speak of except over the waterfall at times. I read where the
>UV also fights off parasites and such.
>Just wanted some views on the subject. Might mention the fish are 12yrs old
>too.
>Patty
>"Ka30P" > wrote in message
...
>>
>> There are many types of ponders and ponding.
>> BV says natural ponding. That's what I do but
>> I suspect I'm a natural ponder because I am,
>> at heart, a lazy ponder... I don't want to fuss
>> with a UV line and change the light bulb and
>> worry about it. Probably why I still don't have
>> a skimmer, I'd have to skim it!
>>
>> That said... the universal problem of green water is what moves folks to
>UV
>> lights so I will post my general list of green water fighting tips, of
>which UV
>> is one of them.
>>
>>
>> Algae fighting tips
>> ~ Nutrients for algae are sun, new water, fish waste, fertilized run off,
>> rotting plants, blown in dirt.
>> ~ New ponds and spring ponds need time for plants to get established,
>algae is
>> quicker at getting going.
>> ~ add plants, of any kind, in the pond. Especially underwater plants.
>> ~ Shade is good - provided by lily pads, floating plants or artificial
>shade
>> for part of the day.
>> ~ LOW fish stocking (20 gallons per goldfish, 100 per koi after starting
>with
>> 1,000 gallons) and *not* overfeeding the fish. Too many fish and too much
>> feeding is probably responsible for most pea soup water, followed closely
>by
>> too much decaying plant matter, sludge and overall gunk in the water
>> ~ adding a combination mechanical and biological filter to screen gunk and
>> convert fishy ammonia waste.
>> ~ build a veggie filter, to run water through plants, as easy as floating
>water
>> hyacinth in your filter.
>> ~ clean up dead plant matter and screen for falling leaves
>> in the fall.
>> ~ water movement, occasional water changes of 10%
>> ~ add a sludge consumer, concentrated bacteria.
>> many rec.ponders use http://www.united-tech.com/m-aq4u-toc.html
>> ~ building ponds with bottom drains and skimmers.
>> ~ do not use algaecides, they only make lots of suddenly dead algae
>> and that will feed the next algae bloom.
>> ~ do not worry about algae that grows on things (substrate algae) this is
>good
>> for a pond
>> ~ gently remove string algae
>> ~ UV lights work on suspended algae (green water) - does cost some $$.
>> ~ patience and time ;-)
>>
>>
>> kathy :-)
>> <A HREF="http://www.onceuponapond.com/">Once upon a pond</A>
>

~ jan