PVC through Concrete Pond Wall

[Zeuspaul]

Does concrete adhere to PVC? What is the best way to run a 4 inch piece of
PVC through the wall of a concrete pond and keep it from leaking at the
joint? The PVC pipe will be about two feet below the water surface.

Thanks

[PlainBill]

I'd suggest copying the practices the swimming pool builder use. I
assume by 4 inch you mean diameter, not length.

If you have not poured the concrete yet, I'd simply pour the concrete
around the pipe, making sure the concrete is packed around the pipe so
there are no voids, especially underneath the pipe.

If the wall is already in place, you are going to have to knock a
hole in the wall, then put the pipe through and cement it in place
with hydraulic cement. This will expand as it cures and form a tight
seal to the existing concrete and the pipe.

PlainBill

On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 04:59:42 GMT, "Zeuspaul"
> wrote:

>Does concrete adhere to PVC? What is the best way to run a 4 inch piece of
>PVC through the wall of a concrete pond and keep it from leaking at the
>joint? The PVC pipe will be about two feet below the water surface.
>
>Thanks

[RichToyBox]

I would use a closet flange with the pipe glued into each side. The flange
will be in the center of the concrete and act as a water stop, making the
water have a longer path. Concrete only sticks to pvc when you don't want
it to. Vibrations in the plumbing, temperature changes, and other factors
will cause the pvc to become lose in the hole, but the closet flange is
thoroughly anchored.
--
RichToyBox
http://www.geocities.com/richtoybox/pondintro.html
"Zeuspaul" > wrote in message
news:01c45428$70ae1b60$0817480c@zeus1...
> Does concrete adhere to PVC? What is the best way to run a 4 inch piece
of
> PVC through the wall of a concrete pond and keep it from leaking at the
> joint? The PVC pipe will be about two feet below the water surface.
>
> Thanks

[Zeuspaul]

> >Does concrete adhere to PVC? What is the best way to run a 4 inch piece
of
> >PVC through the wall of a concrete pond and keep it from leaking at the
> >joint? The PVC pipe will be about two feet below the water surface.


>I'd suggest copying the practices the swimming pool builder use. I
>assume by 4 inch you mean diameter, not length.

> If you have not poured the concrete yet, I'd simply pour the concrete
>around the pipe, making sure the concrete is packed around the pipe so
>there are no voids, especially underneath the pipe.


The pond is not built yet. Is that what the swimming pool builders do?
Just pour concrete around it? I could make the wall thicker near the
joint...perhaps 12 or eighteen inches. Also thought about running a bead
of silicon around the pipe before pouring the concrete.

Thanks for the thoughts

[Zeuspaul]

> I would use a closet flange with the pipe glued into each side. The
flange
> will be in the center of the concrete and act as a water stop, making the
> water have a longer path. Concrete only sticks to pvc when you don't
want
> it to. Vibrations in the plumbing, temperature changes, and other
factors
> will cause the pvc to become lose in the hole, but the closet flange is
> thoroughly anchored.

Do I have to cut the pipe or are you recommending passing it through the
flange? I found some online...however it is a little hard to figure if the
pipe will pass through the flange.

The closet flanges seem to run about 5 bucks which is a LOT cheaper than
the $45 4 inch water stop I found.
http://www.recreonics.com/fyi/wall_fittings.htm

Thanks

[tim chandler]

That's exactly what I did with my concrete pond. I simply laid the PVC pipe
in place with some gravel under it, and then poured the concrete over and
around it, a bit thicker (further back) than the rest of the pond wall. At
the surface (where the water meets the concrete) I later coated the concrete
with Quikrete Vinyl Patching Cement, the whole pond. I used hardware cloth
to reinforce the whole structure. No leaks at all 4 years later. You could
run a bead of silicone around the pipe if you want, but I didn't and it
hasn't been necessary.

Happy Concrete Ponding,
Tim C.

"Zeuspaul" > wrote in message
news:01c45428$70ae1b60$0817480c@zeus1...
> Does concrete adhere to PVC? What is the best way to run a 4 inch piece
of
> PVC through the wall of a concrete pond and keep it from leaking at the
> joint? The PVC pipe will be about two feet below the water surface.
>
> Thanks

[Just Me \Koi\]

This approach will leak!
Just Me Koi, AIA

--
_______________________________________
"The difference between 'involvement' and 'commitment' is
like an eggs-and-ham breakfast:
The chicken was 'involved' - the pig was 'committed'."

http://community.webshots.com/user/godwino

"PlainBill" > wrote in message
...
> I'd suggest copying the practices the swimming pool builder use. I
> assume by 4 inch you mean diameter, not length.
>
> If you have not poured the concrete yet, I'd simply pour the concrete
> around the pipe, making sure the concrete is packed around the pipe so
> there are no voids, especially underneath the pipe.
>
> If the wall is already in place, you are going to have to knock a
> hole in the wall, then put the pipe through and cement it in place
> with hydraulic cement. This will expand as it cures and form a tight
> seal to the existing concrete and the pipe.
>
> PlainBill
>
> On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 04:59:42 GMT, "Zeuspaul"
> > wrote:
>
> >Does concrete adhere to PVC? What is the best way to run a 4 inch piece
of
> >PVC through the wall of a concrete pond and keep it from leaking at the
> >joint? The PVC pipe will be about two feet below the water surface.
> >
> >Thanks
>

[Webfoot]

Just a guess here but do you think a coating of roof patch or tar on
the pipe first would help. It would stay playable enough to withstand
the expansions and contractions of the cement through the seasons.

Just a thought

Russell Mack

[tim chandler]

Hasn't leaked for me, in over 4 years in my home-built concrete pond. I'd
do it the same way over again, too, if I build another.

Tim

"Just Me "Koi"" > wrote in message
...
> This approach will leak!
> Just Me Koi, AIA
>
> --
> _______________________________________
> "The difference between 'involvement' and 'commitment' is
> like an eggs-and-ham breakfast:
> The chicken was 'involved' - the pig was 'committed'."
>
> http://community.webshots.com/user/godwino
>
> "PlainBill" > wrote in message
> ...
> > I'd suggest copying the practices the swimming pool builder use. I
> > assume by 4 inch you mean diameter, not length.
> >
> > If you have not poured the concrete yet, I'd simply pour the concrete
> > around the pipe, making sure the concrete is packed around the pipe so
> > there are no voids, especially underneath the pipe.
> >
> > If the wall is already in place, you are going to have to knock a
> > hole in the wall, then put the pipe through and cement it in place
> > with hydraulic cement. This will expand as it cures and form a tight
> > seal to the existing concrete and the pipe.
> >
> > PlainBill
> >
> > On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 04:59:42 GMT, "Zeuspaul"
> > > wrote:
> >
> > >Does concrete adhere to PVC? What is the best way to run a 4 inch
piece
> of
> > >PVC through the wall of a concrete pond and keep it from leaking at the
> > >joint? The PVC pipe will be about two feet below the water surface.
> > >
> > >Thanks
> >
>
>

[RichToyBox]

For the closet flange to be glued to the pvc, the pvc would have to be cut,
inserted half way from one side, and then inserted half way from the other
side. It would function the same way as the ones you found as waterstops.
Just be sure that the pipe will go into both sides when you buy one.
--
RichToyBox
http://www.geocities.com/richtoybox/pondintro.html
"Zeuspaul" > wrote in message
news:01c454d9$b582c860$e019480c@zeus1...
> > I would use a closet flange with the pipe glued into each side. The
> flange
> > will be in the center of the concrete and act as a water stop, making
the
> > water have a longer path. Concrete only sticks to pvc when you don't
> want
> > it to. Vibrations in the plumbing, temperature changes, and other
> factors
> > will cause the pvc to become lose in the hole, but the closet flange is
> > thoroughly anchored.
>
> Do I have to cut the pipe or are you recommending passing it through the
> flange? I found some online...however it is a little hard to figure if
the
> pipe will pass through the flange.
>
> The closet flanges seem to run about 5 bucks which is a LOT cheaper than
> the $45 4 inch water stop I found.
> http://www.recreonics.com/fyi/wall_fittings.htm
>
> Thanks