Best Aquarium Heaters

[blove]

sorry for the cross post but i want as many opinions as i can get. in one
of my tanks im using a visi-therm deluxe heater wich is starting to get
condensation inside the glass. i had one in my 10 gallon but then it
malfunctioned and killed my 3 dwarf frogs. so i ordered an ebo jager for my
10 gallon and that is workin fine so far (knock on wood). i got a
drsfostersmith.com catalogue and was lookin thru it and i saw these
stainless steel heater, are they any good? im lookin for a replacement for
my 30 and my brother got a used tank and it needs a new heater. I know
there are some people who dont believe in using heaters and havnt had
problems but i live in upstate new york and the temp drops fast in my house,
moreso in the winter obviously. I also need a heater for my 5.5 gallon, so
far the only 25 watt heaters i can find are in the visitherm heaters and the
stupid cheapy hang on the back ones that drop in the water. thanks for any
replies.

sharon

[ManWorld42]

"blove" > wrote in message >...
[deleted]
I did a lot of research before I bought my heaters. This is my
advice. Get 2 heaters of the same wattage. The wattage of each
heater should not be able to raise the temperature of your tank by
much more than 9 degree F if it were to get stuck. As for the
specific model: I like the Visitherm Stealth.

In my 36Gal corner tank, I have 2 100W heaters. In my 50Gal tank, I
will have 2 150W heaters, they are being delivered as I wrote this
message.

[Justin Boucher]

The two heater idea is good provided you plan accordingly. The heaters used
should be similar enough so that they share the load. Try to avoid having
one heater do all the work and the other as just a back up. This might
sound like a good idea, but if that one heater malfunctions, it could still
overheat the tank.

I have used the steel/titanium heaters in my marine settings and thought
they worked great. The only issue was the disintegration of the rubber
suction pads. I believe this happened so rapidly due to the marine
environment and have not tried them in freshwater yet (the tank will be set
up in a few months). If the rubber suction pads don't erode unusually quick
in freshwater, I intend to go steel/titanium all around and drop the use of
the classical class test tube heaters.

Justin

"blove" > wrote in message
.. .
> sorry for the cross post but i want as many opinions as i can get. in one
> of my tanks im using a visi-therm deluxe heater wich is starting to get
> condensation inside the glass. i had one in my 10 gallon but then it
> malfunctioned and killed my 3 dwarf frogs. so i ordered an ebo jager for
my
> 10 gallon and that is workin fine so far (knock on wood). i got a
> drsfostersmith.com catalogue and was lookin thru it and i saw these
> stainless steel heater, are they any good? im lookin for a replacement
for
> my 30 and my brother got a used tank and it needs a new heater. I know
> there are some people who dont believe in using heaters and havnt had
> problems but i live in upstate new york and the temp drops fast in my
house,
> moreso in the winter obviously. I also need a heater for my 5.5 gallon,
so
> far the only 25 watt heaters i can find are in the visitherm heaters and
the
> stupid cheapy hang on the back ones that drop in the water. thanks for
any
> replies.
>
> sharon
>
>
>
>

[Fish-Forums.com]

I prefer steel or titanium as they are pretty much indestructable
As for glass ones ebo- jagers are good as well

Want to win a FREE new co2 system or a lighting system check out our
forum for our newest contest coming up

http://www.fish-forums.com

Http://www.aquatic-store.com




On Tue, 05 Oct 2004 04:43:00 GMT, "blove" > wrote:

>sorry for the cross post but i want as many opinions as i can get. in one
>of my tanks im using a visi-therm deluxe heater wich is starting to get
>condensation inside the glass. i had one in my 10 gallon but then it
>malfunctioned and killed my 3 dwarf frogs. so i ordered an ebo jager for my
>10 gallon and that is workin fine so far (knock on wood). i got a
>drsfostersmith.com catalogue and was lookin thru it and i saw these
>stainless steel heater, are they any good? im lookin for a replacement for
>my 30 and my brother got a used tank and it needs a new heater. I know
>there are some people who dont believe in using heaters and havnt had
>problems but i live in upstate new york and the temp drops fast in my house,
>moreso in the winter obviously. I also need a heater for my 5.5 gallon, so
>far the only 25 watt heaters i can find are in the visitherm heaters and the
>stupid cheapy hang on the back ones that drop in the water. thanks for any
>replies.
>
>sharon
>
>
>

[ManWorld42]

"Justin Boucher" > wrote in message news:<rjL8d.6591$r3.5652@trnddc05>...
> The two heater idea is good provided you plan accordingly. The heaters used
> should be similar enough so that they share the load. Try to avoid having
> one heater do all the work and the other as just a back up. This might
> sound like a good idea, but if that one heater malfunctions, it could still
> overheat the tank.
>
That was why I suggested that the wattage of each heater could only
raise the temperature of the tank by at most 9 degrees F even if it
were to be stuck on high. In the event that one of the heater just
quits, the other heater can at least do some good raising the
temperature by 9 degrees.

[deleted]

[Justin Boucher]

I agree, it's a good idea. I'm thinking about applying the concept to my
tanks.

"ManWorld42" > wrote in message
m...
> "Justin Boucher" > wrote in message
news:<rjL8d.6591$r3.5652@trnddc05>...
> > The two heater idea is good provided you plan accordingly. The heaters
used
> > should be similar enough so that they share the load. Try to avoid
having
> > one heater do all the work and the other as just a back up. This might
> > sound like a good idea, but if that one heater malfunctions, it could
still
> > overheat the tank.
> >
> That was why I suggested that the wattage of each heater could only
> raise the temperature of the tank by at most 9 degrees F even if it
> were to be stuck on high. In the event that one of the heater just
> quits, the other heater can at least do some good raising the
> temperature by 9 degrees.
>
> [deleted]

[Dick]

On 7 Oct 2004 21:38:31 -0700, (ManWorld42)
wrote:

>"Justin Boucher" > wrote in message news:<rjL8d.6591$r3.5652@trnddc05>...
>> The two heater idea is good provided you plan accordingly. The heaters used
>> should be similar enough so that they share the load. Try to avoid having
>> one heater do all the work and the other as just a back up. This might
>> sound like a good idea, but if that one heater malfunctions, it could still
>> overheat the tank.
>>
>That was why I suggested that the wattage of each heater could only
>raise the temperature of the tank by at most 9 degrees F even if it
>were to be stuck on high. In the event that one of the heater just
>quits, the other heater can at least do some good raising the
>temperature by 9 degrees.
>
>[deleted]

Are you assuming the room itself will have steady temperature? If the
room varies by 10 degrees, then the wattage selected to raise the
water volume by 9 degrees will fall short. Personally, I am keeping
my room temperature close to the tanks' temperature.

dick

[ManWorld42]

Dick > wrote in message >...
> On 7 Oct 2004 21:38:31 -0700, (ManWorld42)
> wrote:
>
> >"Justin Boucher" > wrote in message news:<rjL8d.6591$r3.5652@trnddc05>...
> >> The two heater idea is good provided you plan accordingly. The heaters used
> >> should be similar enough so that they share the load. Try to avoid having
> >> one heater do all the work and the other as just a back up. This might
> >> sound like a good idea, but if that one heater malfunctions, it could still
> >> overheat the tank.
> >>
> >That was why I suggested that the wattage of each heater could only
> >raise the temperature of the tank by at most 9 degrees F even if it
> >were to be stuck on high. In the event that one of the heater just
> >quits, the other heater can at least do some good raising the
> >temperature by 9 degrees.
> >
> >[deleted]
>
> Are you assuming the room itself will have steady temperature? If the
> room varies by 10 degrees, then the wattage selected to raise the
> water volume by 9 degrees will fall short. Personally, I am keeping

Heat loss from an aquarium is proportional to the temperature
difference between the aquarium and its surrounding. So, the amount
of wattage required to raise the aquarium temperature by 9 degrees is
pretty much the same within the normal range of room temperature. For
example, in my home, the room temperature ranges from 58 to 75
degrees. This means that in the event that one of my heater is stuck
and the other one broken, the tank temperature ranges from 67 to 84
degrees. 67 is much better than 58, and 84 will not kill the fish
without prolong exposure. This buys me some time to get new heaters.
You can work out the other scenarios. Of course, the worst case of
both heaters broken or both stuck on high can happen. But the
probability of the worst case scenarios are lower. It is all about
lowering risk.

> my room temperature close to the tanks' temperature.

In that case, you don't need a heater. More accurately, your room IS
the aquarium heater. Very expensive.
>
> dick