View Full Version : Newbie Questions
October 31st 04, 12:54 AM
I have just purchased my first tank and would like some tips from you
experts.
I have a 2ft tank have filled it up with water, heater is set for 26C and
the water temp is steady at that temp. I have bought a water softening
pillow and put in the filter for 24 hours (as I have extremely hard water in
my area) I have also Added some tap water conditioner to the tank as well as
some water clearing solution. When Can I add the fish?
There are 4 plants in the tank and I have added a large rock feature
(plastic resin) for the fish. I have got a PH testing kit and the PH level
is now at 7.0 which I am told is good for a mixed fish tank.
Regarding the PH levels. My tap water was a PH of 8 which was a little bit
too high, now to lower this I used water from my tap water filter (the ones
you use to filter your drinking water) as I did a test on this water and the
PH level was 5.5 so I guessed that adding this water would eventually
balance the PH level out.
1. Ok now what fish should I get?
2. How many fish will this tank sustain without being overcrowded? I would
like fish that don't eat each other and no fish that grow larger than a few
centimetres.
3. Is my cheap solution an ok way of balancing the PH levels out?
4. What other "stuff" do I need to get i.e. ammonia testers, as I have seen
so much stuff my head is spinning.
5. What food is good for the fish I am about to get??
6. When I do a small water change(not the whole tank) do I have to warm the
new water up or can I just add it a bit at a time?
7. Anything else you can think of that might help
TIA
my e-mail address is blazer666(at)rapidplay(dot)com
Victor Martinez
October 31st 04, 02:51 AM
wrote:
> some water clearing solution. When Can I add the fish?
Read this: http://faq.thekrib.com/begin.html
> Regarding the PH levels. My tap water was a PH of 8 which was a little bit
> too high, now to lower this I used water from my tap water filter (the ones
pH is not that important, unless you're trying to breed a particular
kind of fish.
> 1. Ok now what fish should I get?
Depends on what you like.
> 2. How many fish will this tank sustain without being overcrowded? I would
> like fish that don't eat each other and no fish that grow larger than a few
> centimetres.
A crue rule of thumb is 1" of fish per gallon of water.
> 3. Is my cheap solution an ok way of balancing the PH levels out?
Leave the pH alone.
> 4. What other "stuff" do I need to get i.e. ammonia testers, as I have seen
> so much stuff my head is spinning.
Read the website.
> 5. What food is good for the fish I am about to get??
Good quality food is important. Flake is ok, frozen food is good.
> 6. When I do a small water change(not the whole tank) do I have to warm the
> new water up or can I just add it a bit at a time?
Depends on the temp differential.
> 7. Anything else you can think of that might help
--
Victor Martinez
Owned and operated by the Fantastic Seven (TM)
Send your spam here:
Email me here:
miskairal
October 31st 04, 04:19 AM
wrote:
> I have just purchased my first tank and would like some tips from you
> experts.
>
> I have a 2ft tank have filled it up with water, heater is set for 26C and
> the water temp is steady at that temp. I have bought a water softening
> pillow and put in the filter for 24 hours (as I have extremely hard water in
> my area) I have also Added some tap water conditioner to the tank as well as
> some water clearing solution. When Can I add the fish?
>
> There are 4 plants in the tank and I have added a large rock feature
> (plastic resin) for the fish. I have got a PH testing kit and the PH level
> is now at 7.0 which I am told is good for a mixed fish tank.
>
> Regarding the PH levels. My tap water was a PH of 8 which was a little bit
> too high, now to lower this I used water from my tap water filter (the ones
> you use to filter your drinking water) as I did a test on this water and the
> PH level was 5.5 so I guessed that adding this water would eventually
> balance the PH level out.
>
> 1. Ok now what fish should I get?
IF you get guppies of both sexes be prepared for their breeding profusely.
>
> 2. How many fish will this tank sustain without being overcrowded? I would
> like fish that don't eat each other and no fish that grow larger than a few
> centimetres.
>
> 3. Is my cheap solution an ok way of balancing the PH levels out?
I mix water to get a reasonable pH for my guppies and corys. I only have
access to water direct from the creek (pH of about 7.6) and rainwater
(pH of 6.3). By miixing the two waters about 50:50, I get a pH of around
7.2 and a good GH and KH. Works well here and has done since March.
>
> 4. What other "stuff" do I need to get i.e. ammonia testers, as I have seen
> so much stuff my head is spinning.
That was my problem - too much info and some of it conflicting. Go to
NetMax's site, it's good, well organized, pleasant on the eye and you
don't get overloaded.
http://www.2cah.com/netmax/index.shtml
>
> 5. What food is good for the fish I am about to get??
>
> 6. When I do a small water change(not the whole tank) do I have to warm the
> new water up or can I just add it a bit at a time?
>
> 7. Anything else you can think of that might help
>
>
>
> TIA
>
> my e-mail address is blazer666(at)rapidplay(dot)com
Gbrunsdon
October 31st 04, 07:32 AM
"Victor Martinez" > wrote in message
...
> wrote:
> > some water clearing solution. When Can I add the fish?
>
> Read this: http://faq.thekrib.com/begin.html
>
> > Regarding the PH levels. My tap water was a PH of 8 which was a little
bit
> > too high, now to lower this I used water from my tap water filter (the
ones
>
> pH is not that important, unless you're trying to breed a particular
> kind of fish.
>
> > 1. Ok now what fish should I get?
>
> Depends on what you like.
>
> > 2. How many fish will this tank sustain without being overcrowded? I
would
> > like fish that don't eat each other and no fish that grow larger than a
few
> > centimetres.
>
> A crue rule of thumb is 1" of fish per gallon of water.
>
> > 3. Is my cheap solution an ok way of balancing the PH levels out?
>
> Leave the pH alone.
>
> > 4. What other "stuff" do I need to get i.e. ammonia testers, as I have
seen
> > so much stuff my head is spinning.
>
> Read the website.
>
> > 5. What food is good for the fish I am about to get??
>
> Good quality food is important. Flake is ok, frozen food is good.
>
> > 6. When I do a small water change(not the whole tank) do I have to warm
the
> > new water up or can I just add it a bit at a time?
>
> Depends on the temp differential.
>
> > 7. Anything else you can think of that might help
>
> --
> Victor Martinez
> Owned and operated by the Fantastic Seven (TM)
> Send your spam here:
> Email me here:
Gbrunsdon
October 31st 04, 07:39 AM
Re which fish to get,look on a website or get a book with different species
and what they need. 'Community' tank fish are usually the easiest to keep.
They tend to live and feed at different levels of the tank so to make the
most of the space you could have 'bottom level', 'mid', and 'top' feeders.
hope this is useful,
Fifi
"Victor Martinez" > wrote in message
...
> wrote:
> > some water clearing solution. When Can I add the fish?
>
> Read this: http://faq.thekrib.com/begin.html
>
> > Regarding the PH levels. My tap water was a PH of 8 which was a little
bit
> > too high, now to lower this I used water from my tap water filter (the
ones
>
> pH is not that important, unless you're trying to breed a particular
> kind of fish.
>
> > 1. Ok now what fish should I get?
>
> Depends on what you like.
>
> > 2. How many fish will this tank sustain without being overcrowded? I
would
> > like fish that don't eat each other and no fish that grow larger than a
few
> > centimetres.
>
> A crue rule of thumb is 1" of fish per gallon of water.
>
> > 3. Is my cheap solution an ok way of balancing the PH levels out?
>
> Leave the pH alone.
>
> > 4. What other "stuff" do I need to get i.e. ammonia testers, as I have
seen
> > so much stuff my head is spinning.
>
> Read the website.
>
> > 5. What food is good for the fish I am about to get??
>
> Good quality food is important. Flake is ok, frozen food is good.
>
> > 6. When I do a small water change(not the whole tank) do I have to warm
the
> > new water up or can I just add it a bit at a time?
>
> Depends on the temp differential.
>
> > 7. Anything else you can think of that might help
>
> --
> Victor Martinez
> Owned and operated by the Fantastic Seven (TM)
> Send your spam here:
> Email me here:
Mary Burns
October 31st 04, 08:46 AM
Definately keep to small fish when fully grown. I have only had fish for 5
months and soon upgraded from 96 litre(2'6" along front) to 260 litre (4'
front) There is so much more activity in the larger tank even with the same
fish, my tetras love the extra space as do the platies. Each are considered
suitable for your size tank. My planted first tank didn't give enough cover
when the inevitable "bully" appears and there always seems to be one!!, but
my large tank has no such problems. When it has cycled, cories are
delightful for the bottom, again get 3 or 4 of the smaller ones and keep it
simple to start with by either a fishless cycle or 3 fish to cycle with and
lots of small water changes to minimise the stress for them. I cycled with 3
platies (didn''t know any better at the time) who are still thriving, with
the inevitable fry on day10 of the cycle, who are now beautiful fish and I
kept them all!! I now have 21 platies, who IMO are great. I have angels,
tetra, otos and cories, but my platies add colour and activity, they are
always busy, and the angels now are helping with the inevitable population
explosion that comes with livebearers.
So, keep it simple, there are plenty of sites who recommend good first fish
and the reasons why.
> wrote in message
...
>I have just purchased my first tank and would like some tips from you
> experts.
>
> I have a 2ft tank have filled it up with water, heater is set for 26C and
> the water temp is steady at that temp. I have bought a water softening
> pillow and put in the filter for 24 hours (as I have extremely hard water
> in
> my area) I have also Added some tap water conditioner to the tank as well
> as
> some water clearing solution. When Can I add the fish?
>
> There are 4 plants in the tank and I have added a large rock feature
> (plastic resin) for the fish. I have got a PH testing kit and the PH level
> is now at 7.0 which I am told is good for a mixed fish tank.
>
> Regarding the PH levels. My tap water was a PH of 8 which was a little bit
> too high, now to lower this I used water from my tap water filter (the
> ones
> you use to filter your drinking water) as I did a test on this water and
> the
> PH level was 5.5 so I guessed that adding this water would eventually
> balance the PH level out.
>
> 1. Ok now what fish should I get?
>
> 2. How many fish will this tank sustain without being overcrowded? I would
> like fish that don't eat each other and no fish that grow larger than a
> few
> centimetres.
>
> 3. Is my cheap solution an ok way of balancing the PH levels out?
>
> 4. What other "stuff" do I need to get i.e. ammonia testers, as I have
> seen
> so much stuff my head is spinning.
>
> 5. What food is good for the fish I am about to get??
>
> 6. When I do a small water change(not the whole tank) do I have to warm
> the
> new water up or can I just add it a bit at a time?
>
> 7. Anything else you can think of that might help
>
>
>
> TIA
>
> my e-mail address is blazer666(at)rapidplay(dot)com
Ray Martini
October 31st 04, 01:21 PM
Most importantly, don't forget to properly cycle your tank. Too many fish at
once can only lead to disaster and heartache. The nitrogen cycle is the #1
thing to consider in starting a new tank.
Start with a few very hardy fish to get the waste product going and hence
the ammonia eating bacteria colony started. Zebra Danios are an excellent
starter fish. If your tank becomes cloudy with a milky color after a couple
weeks, don't worry about it, it's a bacteria bloom and is normal part of the
cycle. It will work itself out in about a week.
Check your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels regularly and do alot of 20 -
25% water changes during this time. You'll see a spike in the ammonia, then
after that you'll see a spike in nitrites. When ammonia and nitrite are at 0
and you have some nitrates in the tank, your cycle is complete. Live plants
play a part in this also.
Once your cycle is completed (usually 6 to 8 weeks) then you can stock your
tank with your preferences. pH isn't that big a deal. I've read that the
best practice is to leave the pH alone.
Hope this helps.
--
Happy Fishin' ...
Ray
> wrote in message
...
>I have just purchased my first tank and would like some tips from you
> experts.
>
> I have a 2ft tank have filled it up with water, heater is set for 26C and
> the water temp is steady at that temp. I have bought a water softening
> pillow and put in the filter for 24 hours (as I have extremely hard water
> in
> my area) I have also Added some tap water conditioner to the tank as well
> as
> some water clearing solution. When Can I add the fish?
>
> There are 4 plants in the tank and I have added a large rock feature
> (plastic resin) for the fish. I have got a PH testing kit and the PH level
> is now at 7.0 which I am told is good for a mixed fish tank.
>
> Regarding the PH levels. My tap water was a PH of 8 which was a little bit
> too high, now to lower this I used water from my tap water filter (the
> ones
> you use to filter your drinking water) as I did a test on this water and
> the
> PH level was 5.5 so I guessed that adding this water would eventually
> balance the PH level out.
>
> 1. Ok now what fish should I get?
>
> 2. How many fish will this tank sustain without being overcrowded? I would
> like fish that don't eat each other and no fish that grow larger than a
> few
> centimetres.
>
> 3. Is my cheap solution an ok way of balancing the PH levels out?
>
> 4. What other "stuff" do I need to get i.e. ammonia testers, as I have
> seen
> so much stuff my head is spinning.
>
> 5. What food is good for the fish I am about to get??
>
> 6. When I do a small water change(not the whole tank) do I have to warm
> the
> new water up or can I just add it a bit at a time?
>
> 7. Anything else you can think of that might help
>
>
>
> TIA
>
> my e-mail address is blazer666(at)rapidplay(dot)com
Amateur Cichlids
October 31st 04, 09:48 PM
As others have posted, messing with pH can be a real pain. I do tend to
disagree with the statement that pH isn't important. Putting fish that
prefer a low pH in a tank with a pH of 8 can shorten the life of the fish.
With a constant pH, it may not make that big of a difference, but you may
eventually decide on breeding etc.
With a pH of 8, if you want the best bang for your buck, IE. lots of fish,
I'd research the Lamprologus multifasciatus. These cichlids from Lake
Tanganyika would love your pH of 8 and you could do about a dozen in that
tank.
Tim
www.fishaholics.org
Here's a profile on the L. multifasciatus I haven't moved to the new site
yet.
http://66.70.90.40/fish/l_multifasciatus.shtml
TYNK 7
November 1st 04, 05:44 AM
>Subject: Re: Newbie Questions
>From: "Ray Martini"
>Date: 10/31/2004 7:21 AM Central Standard Time
>Message-id: >
>
>Most importantly, don't forget to properly cycle your tank. Too many fish at
>once can only lead to disaster and heartache. The nitrogen cycle is the #1
>thing to consider in starting a new tank.
>
>Start with a few very hardy fish to get the waste product going and hence
>the ammonia eating bacteria colony started. Zebra Danios are an excellent
>starter fish. If your tank becomes cloudy with a milky color after a couple
>weeks, don't worry about it, it's a bacteria bloom and is normal part of the
>cycle. It will work itself out in about a week.
>
>Check your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels regularly and do alot of 20 -
>25% water changes during this time. You'll see a spike in the ammonia, then
>after that you'll see a spike in nitrites. When ammonia and nitrite are at 0
>and you have some nitrates in the tank, your cycle is complete. Live plants
>play a part in this also.
>
>Once your cycle is completed (usually 6 to 8 weeks) then you can stock your
>tank with your preferences. pH isn't that big a deal. I've read that the
>best practice is to leave the pH alone.
>
>Hope this helps.
Instead of using fish to cycle a tank (it really is hard on them, sometimes
lethal), why not fishless cycle the tank.
http://www.tomgriffin.com/aquamag/cycle2.html
Robert Flory
November 1st 04, 11:59 PM
> wrote in message
...
SNIP
>
> There are 4 plants in the tank and I have added a large rock feature
> (plastic resin) for the fish. I have got a PH testing kit and the PH level
> is now at 7.0 which I am told is good for a mixed fish tank.
>
> Regarding the PH levels. My tap water was a PH of 8 which was a little bit
> too high, now to lower this I used water from my tap water filter (the
> ones
> you use to filter your drinking water) as I did a test on this water and
> the
> PH level was 5.5 so I guessed that adding this water would eventually
> balance the PH level out.
>
what is the pH of tap water after sitting in a bucket for 24 hours?
Bob
nobody
November 2nd 04, 02:29 AM
i agree on the zebra dainos. i started my 100 gal tank with them. i got 6 of
them, i only lost 1. i still have them in the tank to this day. dont rush
stocking the tank, let it cycle out. for a community tank id stick to the
feeding levels formula. a few top feeders, a few mid feeders(the zebra
dainos) and bottom feeders(i prefer clown loaches) . when algae starts to
appear(most probbly will,and its not a bad thing, it part of nature) get a
algae eater. i have 2 china algae eaters in my 100 gal tank and they do a
good job keep the tank clean. i stay away from any chemicals to get rid of
algae. nature provided algae eaters for that job. once your tank settles
down usualy you only have to check the ph once in a while.
i use good flake food in the mourning, and at night i drop in a frozen
cube of brine shrimp. every once in a while i put in freze dryed blood worms
for ruffage. if i notice a lot of junk on the bottom of the tank(uneaten
food) i skip the brine shrimp for a few days. and let the clown loaches
clean up the tank(they get lazy after a while and start eating at mid level
of the tank) that forces them to eat off the bottom.
me personaly, i try to stay away from chemical stuff for the tank(other
than ph chemicals, and chlorine remover. )
i agree on the ph bieing not that big of a deal within reason . fish have a
good range (like 6.5 to 8) so if u tank settles at a steady 7.2 without
gooffing around with it, id let it there. my tank wants to hang at a 7.2
normaly, and i can lower the ph to 7(mid line) but it wants to climb at stay
a 7.2, so i gave up, all my fish seem fine and happy, so let it be. dont
forget the fish come from streams that get run off from rain so the ph
changes often .
i like the product called "stress coat" . i also use aquarium salt. (there
are diffrent opinions on a touch of salt in freswater tanks) but from my
experences it keeps my fish healthy.
i also have learned to let sick fish work it out on there own. i treated
glass fish for ich, they died anyway and i also killed a bunch of black neon
tetras in the prosses of treating the tank(sorry but i cant afford a
hospital tank).
the best way to describe this hobby , is that you are taking care of the
water,not the fish.
"Ray Martini" > wrote in message
...
> Most importantly, don't forget to properly cycle your tank. Too many fish
> at once can only lead to disaster and heartache. The nitrogen cycle is the
> #1 thing to consider in starting a new tank.
>
> Start with a few very hardy fish to get the waste product going and hence
> the ammonia eating bacteria colony started. Zebra Danios are an excellent
> starter fish. If your tank becomes cloudy with a milky color after a
> couple weeks, don't worry about it, it's a bacteria bloom and is normal
> part of the cycle. It will work itself out in about a week.
>
> Check your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels regularly and do alot of
> 20 - 25% water changes during this time. You'll see a spike in the
> ammonia, then after that you'll see a spike in nitrites. When ammonia and
> nitrite are at 0 and you have some nitrates in the tank, your cycle is
> complete. Live plants play a part in this also.
>
> Once your cycle is completed (usually 6 to 8 weeks) then you can stock
> your tank with your preferences. pH isn't that big a deal. I've read that
> the best practice is to leave the pH alone.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
>
> --
> Happy Fishin' ...
> Ray
>
> > wrote in message
> ...
>>I have just purchased my first tank and would like some tips from you
>> experts.
>>
>> I have a 2ft tank have filled it up with water, heater is set for 26C and
>> the water temp is steady at that temp. I have bought a water softening
>> pillow and put in the filter for 24 hours (as I have extremely hard water
>> in
>> my area) I have also Added some tap water conditioner to the tank as well
>> as
>> some water clearing solution. When Can I add the fish?
>>
>> There are 4 plants in the tank and I have added a large rock feature
>> (plastic resin) for the fish. I have got a PH testing kit and the PH
>> level
>> is now at 7.0 which I am told is good for a mixed fish tank.
>>
>> Regarding the PH levels. My tap water was a PH of 8 which was a little
>> bit
>> too high, now to lower this I used water from my tap water filter (the
>> ones
>> you use to filter your drinking water) as I did a test on this water and
>> the
>> PH level was 5.5 so I guessed that adding this water would eventually
>> balance the PH level out.
>>
>> 1. Ok now what fish should I get?
>>
>> 2. How many fish will this tank sustain without being overcrowded? I
>> would
>> like fish that don't eat each other and no fish that grow larger than a
>> few
>> centimetres.
>>
>> 3. Is my cheap solution an ok way of balancing the PH levels out?
>>
>> 4. What other "stuff" do I need to get i.e. ammonia testers, as I have
>> seen
>> so much stuff my head is spinning.
>>
>> 5. What food is good for the fish I am about to get??
>>
>> 6. When I do a small water change(not the whole tank) do I have to warm
>> the
>> new water up or can I just add it a bit at a time?
>>
>> 7. Anything else you can think of that might help
>>
>>
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> my e-mail address is blazer666(at)rapidplay(dot)com
>
>
November 2nd 04, 01:24 PM
It was about 7.8
November 2nd 04, 04:27 PM
I have got 3 Silver Mollys now in my tank. They have been in there for 3
days now all all seems well until today when all they do is swim on the
surface gulping. I am not sure if this is a sign of lack of oxygen or they
are hungry (I have been feeding them a small pinch of flaked food twice a
day) I have also chucked in 8 small oxygenating pills.
Any ideas
Aquarijen
November 4th 04, 03:59 PM
> wrote in message
...
>I have got 3 Silver Mollys now in my tank. They have been in there for 3
> days now all all seems well until today when all they do is swim on the
> surface gulping. I am not sure if this is a sign of lack of oxygen or they
> are hungry (I have been feeding them a small pinch of flaked food twice a
> day) I have also chucked in 8 small oxygenating pills.
>
> Any ideas
I would not use the oxygenating pills!
Do more small water changes.
-Jen
~shady angel~
November 4th 04, 09:43 PM
wrote:
> I have just purchased my first tank and would like some tips from you
> experts.
>
> I have a 2ft tank have filled it up with water, heater is set for 26C
> and the water temp is steady at that temp. I have bought a water
> softening pillow and put in the filter for 24 hours (as I have
> extremely hard water in my area) I have also Added some tap water
> conditioner to the tank as well as some water clearing solution. When
> Can I add the fish?
>
> There are 4 plants in the tank and I have added a large rock feature
> (plastic resin) for the fish. I have got a PH testing kit and the PH
> level is now at 7.0 which I am told is good for a mixed fish tank.
>
> Regarding the PH levels. My tap water was a PH of 8 which was a
> little bit too high, now to lower this I used water from my tap water
> filter (the ones you use to filter your drinking water) as I did a
> test on this water and the PH level was 5.5 so I guessed that adding
> this water would eventually balance the PH level out.
>
> 1. Ok now what fish should I get?
>
> 2. How many fish will this tank sustain without being overcrowded? I
> would like fish that don't eat each other and no fish that grow
> larger than a few centimetres.
>
> 3. Is my cheap solution an ok way of balancing the PH levels out?
>
> 4. What other "stuff" do I need to get i.e. ammonia testers, as I
> have seen so much stuff my head is spinning.
>
> 5. What food is good for the fish I am about to get??
>
> 6. When I do a small water change(not the whole tank) do I have to
> warm the new water up or can I just add it a bit at a time?
>
> 7. Anything else you can think of that might help
>
>
>
> TIA
>
You could add some boiled water to the new water before you put it in the
tank thats what I do anyways I can't answer all of your questions as I am
far from an expert.
--
~shady angel~
> my e-mail address is blazer666(at)rapidplay(dot)com
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