Bio Wheels

[Newbie Bill]

My 50 gal has been running for about 6 months now with a Penguin 330 and
170. After 'break in' all 3 wheels have always turned at a different rate
from very stop and go to quite evenly. They have all slowed down as time
has gone by, but in just a day or two, suddenly none seem to be turning. On
one I tried clean the filter mat, removing the mat, cleaning the wheel and
nothing seems to help. My tank is never completely full because I have a
leak in the seam somewhere in between the glass and the plastic lip. I run
an airstone for GF so this typically means it is about 3/4 inches from
'full' to keep it from bubbling out. I am at a loss, but also naturally
concerned my bio filtering is going to crash. I do have a thin layer of
gravel in the tank. Any suggestions would be great.
Thanxx
Bill Brister - Austin, Texas

[Tom Randy]

On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 23:43:28 +0000, Newbie Bill wrote:

> My 50 gal has been running for about 6 months now with a Penguin 330 and
> 170. After 'break in' all 3 wheels have always turned at a different rate
> from very stop and go to quite evenly. They have all slowed down as time
> has gone by, but in just a day or two, suddenly none seem to be turning.
> On one I tried clean the filter mat, removing the mat, cleaning the wheel
> and nothing seems to help. My tank is never completely full because I
> have a leak in the seam somewhere in between the glass and the plastic
> lip. I run an airstone for GF so this typically means it is about 3/4
> inches from 'full' to keep it from bubbling out. I am at a loss, but also
> naturally concerned my bio filtering is going to crash. I do have a thin
> layer of gravel in the tank. Any suggestions would be great. Thanxx
> Bill Brister - Austin, Texas


Clean the bio wheel bearings well. Clean the uptake tube really well
inside. It's possible the water flow to the wheel is impeded by gunk.
It's normal for the wheel to slow and stutter but not to stop.

Tom

[ToeKnee]

On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 00:16:38 GMT, Tom Randy >
wrote:

>On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 23:43:28 +0000, Newbie Bill wrote:
>
>> My 50 gal has been running for about 6 months now with a Penguin 330 and
>> 170. After 'break in' all 3 wheels have always turned at a different rate
>> from very stop and go to quite evenly. They have all slowed down as time
>> has gone by, but in just a day or two, suddenly none seem to be turning.

<snip>

>> Bill Brister - Austin, Texas
>
>
>Clean the bio wheel bearings well. Clean the uptake tube really well
>inside. It's possible the water flow to the wheel is impeded by gunk.
>It's normal for the wheel to slow and stutter but not to stop.
>
>Tom

I agree.... pull the biowheel out, remove the little caps on the end.
Clean inside them, and the post they fit on. That connection often
gets a little gunky (technical term)

Tony


--Tony

[Tedd Jacobs]

"ToeKnee" wrote...
> On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 00:16:38 GMT, Tom Randy >
> wrote:
>
>>On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 23:43:28 +0000, Newbie Bill wrote:
>>
>>> My 50 gal has been running for about 6 months now with a Penguin 330 and
>>> 170. After 'break in' all 3 wheels have always turned at a different
>>> rate
>>> from very stop and go to quite evenly. They have all slowed down as
>>> time
>>> has gone by, but in just a day or two, suddenly none seem to be turning.
>
> <snip>
>
>>> Bill Brister - Austin, Texas
>>
>>
>>Clean the bio wheel bearings well. Clean the uptake tube really well
>>inside. It's possible the water flow to the wheel is impeded by gunk.
>>It's normal for the wheel to slow and stutter but not to stop.
>>
>>Tom
>
> I agree.... pull the biowheel out, remove the little caps on the end.
> Clean inside them, and the post they fit on. That connection often
> gets a little gunky (technical term)

is there any form of a lubricating agent that is suitable to be used between
the caps and the posts?

tedd.

--
Pompeii is not an example of the Pompeii premise.

[Newbie Bill]

It's looking like you were right but at the wrong end. The bushings were
nearly pristine and the intake just had a slight film, but there was a few
little shreds and gunk on the impellers, which I have never cleaned..

I am also curious about 'lubricant Tedd mentions. I also have a second 330
on another tank. 4 of the 5 wheels turn very quietly, but the fifth has a
little squeek. 2 questions about my 'inspection'. The wheel on the 170 does
have one are where the pleats meet towards the middle of the wheel that is
split. The two pleats that the water pushes a warped a little closer to
together. Is this cause for concern? I no very little of those little
motors, but I did notice the magnet on the impeller of the 170 (which was
used) is obviously more worn the the 330. When do you replace the impeller
for wear or just the whole filter for being worn out? I realize this is
probably something of a I'd have to see it issue, but general guesses would
be appreciated, if nothng else to hone my problem solving mindset for
aquariums.
Thanxx Again
Bill Brister

"ToeKnee" > wrote in message
...
> On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 00:16:38 GMT, Tom Randy >
> wrote:
>
>>On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 23:43:28 +0000, Newbie Bill wrote:
>>
>>> My 50 gal has been running for about 6 months now with a Penguin 330 and
>>> 170. After 'break in' all 3 wheels have always turned at a different
>>> rate
>>> from very stop and go to quite evenly. They have all slowed down as
>>> time
>>> has gone by, but in just a day or two, suddenly none seem to be turning.
>
> <snip>
>
>>> Bill Brister - Austin, Texas
>>
>>
>>Clean the bio wheel bearings well. Clean the uptake tube really well
>>inside. It's possible the water flow to the wheel is impeded by gunk.
>>It's normal for the wheel to slow and stutter but not to stop.
>>
>>Tom
>
> I agree.... pull the biowheel out, remove the little caps on the end.
> Clean inside them, and the post they fit on. That connection often
> gets a little gunky (technical term)
>
> Tony
>
>
> --Tony

[Fuzzy]

is there any form of a lubricating agent that is suitable to be used
between the caps and the posts?

Somewhere there is a product, however, it costs too much, and would be
hard to use. My cousin use's cooking oil, dabs a bit on a cotton swab,
wipes on the shaft where the bearings sit. I have never used it, but
thought I would pass it on.



--
Posted via CichlidFish.com
http://www.cichlidfish.com/portal/forums

[Dick]

On Wed, 01 Dec 2004 23:43:28 GMT, "Newbie Bill"
> wrote:

>My 50 gal has been running for about 6 months now with a Penguin 330 and
>170. After 'break in' all 3 wheels have always turned at a different rate
>from very stop and go to quite evenly. They have all slowed down as time
>has gone by, but in just a day or two, suddenly none seem to be turning. On
>one I tried clean the filter mat, removing the mat, cleaning the wheel and
>nothing seems to help. My tank is never completely full because I have a
>leak in the seam somewhere in between the glass and the plastic lip. I run
>an airstone for GF so this typically means it is about 3/4 inches from
>'full' to keep it from bubbling out. I am at a loss, but also naturally
>concerned my bio filtering is going to crash. I do have a thin layer of
>gravel in the tank. Any suggestions would be great.
>Thanxx
>Bill Brister - Austin, Texas
>

Most of the time I can get the wheel to turn by wiping my finger along
the bottom and turning the wheel with my finger both directions. I
did replace the bearings a couple of times and the wheel turned again.
I thought that was a fix so I bought 20 to keep on hand. However, I
have not needed to replace the bearings since I bought those, isn't
that the way? I noticed that when I spin the wheel it always stops
with the same part down. I suspect something accumulates, algae
perhaps, making one part of the cylinder heavier than the rest. By
wiping it removes some of the debris, thus making the wheel more
balanced. My speculation.

Don't overlook the water flow. If you find water is flowing over the
intake instead of all going the outtake, you may have to clean your
filters. I have two 330, thus 4 wheels. I have to "fix" one of the 4
every couple of days.

I just stepped over and checked my wheels and sure enough one was
sticking. I did my finger wiping and spun the wheel both directions
several time. It did free it some, but it is still sluggish. Looks
like I may have to clean the filters today. Water is flowing over the
intake.

dick

[Newbie Bill]

Hi all. Between your suggestions and my Gold Fish group I have 'solved' the
problem. I checked the bearings and rods, cleaned the intake tube, wiped
the lip below the wheels and gently shook all my wheels in a small container
of aquarium water. I did clean my filter pads as well, but never thought
this to be the problem as I had zero overflow on the intake side. I will do
all but the 'shaking' on a regular basis. However none of these solved the
stall. On the 330 cleaning the impeller and impellar shaft got me going.
On the 170 I also did this and still out of business. On examining the
wheel closer I found a split where one of the pleats met. I am guessing
that this somehow allowed the wheel to become unbalanced. I bought a new
wheel and was actually given a new impellar assembly. I first replaced the
impellar - no change. I put the original back in and replaced the bio wheel
and after a few minutes it was spinning like a whirly gig. I will probably
float the old wheel in the tank for a week or two to try not to loose too
many biobugs. I dont know how much the 'rinsing' helped, but all things
combined the wheels are turning better than they have in several months. I
would think the 'rinsing' would normally be the last thing one does before
replacing the wheel. Thanks for all your help.
Bill

[pugmonkey]

Newbie Bill wrote:
> Hi all. Between your suggestions and my Gold Fish group I have 'solved' the
> problem. I checked the bearings and rods, cleaned the intake tube, wiped
> the lip below the wheels and gently shook all my wheels in a small container
> of aquarium water. I did clean my filter pads as well, but never thought
> this to be the problem as I had zero overflow on the intake side. I will do
> all but the 'shaking' on a regular basis. However none of these solved the
> stall. On the 330 cleaning the impeller and impellar shaft got me going.
> On the 170 I also did this and still out of business. On examining the
> wheel closer I found a split where one of the pleats met. I am guessing
> that this somehow allowed the wheel to become unbalanced. I bought a new
> wheel and was actually given a new impellar assembly. I first replaced the
> impellar - no change. I put the original back in and replaced the bio wheel
> and after a few minutes it was spinning like a whirly gig. I will probably
> float the old wheel in the tank for a week or two to try not to loose too
> many biobugs. I dont know how much the 'rinsing' helped, but all things
> combined the wheels are turning better than they have in several months. I
> would think the 'rinsing' would normally be the last thing one does before
> replacing the wheel. Thanks for all your help.
> Bill
>
>

ACTUALLY, there is one more thing you can do, and that is to take some
very fine sandpaper and wrape it around the little poles and sand them
down just a little,i did that and mines working perfect now