2.5 gallon hood

[Larry Blanchard]

My one betta was acting psycho in a divided tank, so I bought a 2.5
gallon for him. Not a fancy one, a regular 6"x12" square tank. The
literature that came with it (from Perfecto) says a hood is available.
The store (PetsMart) doesn't have them and Perfecto hasn't responded to
my email.

I've done a web search with no luck. Does anyone know where I can get a
6" by 12" hood?

--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

[IDzine01]

I wonder if it's the same one I have. I bought a 2.5 gal at PetsMart to
use as my hospital/QT tank and it didn't come with a hood either. I
fashoned one out of mesh and cardboard. It's so not pretty, but works
just fine. If you find out, do post it please. I'd love to know.

[Dan J.S.]

"Larry Blanchard" > wrote in message
...
> My one betta was acting psycho in a divided tank, so I bought a 2.5
> gallon for him. Not a fancy one, a regular 6"x12" square tank. The
> literature that came with it (from Perfecto) says a hood is available.
> The store (PetsMart) doesn't have them and Perfecto hasn't responded to
> my email.
>
> I've done a web search with no luck. Does anyone know where I can get a
> 6" by 12" hood?
>
> --
> Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

Perfecto has fairly good support stuff. Go to their web site and call them.
Thats what I did when both of their 150 gallon tanks started to leak :)

[Charles]

On Mon, 6 Dec 2004 10:04:59 -0800, Larry Blanchard
> wrote:

>My one betta was acting psycho in a divided tank, so I bought a 2.5
>gallon for him. Not a fancy one, a regular 6"x12" square tank. The
>literature that came with it (from Perfecto) says a hood is available.
>The store (PetsMart) doesn't have them and Perfecto hasn't responded to
>my email.
>
>I've done a web search with no luck. Does anyone know where I can get a
>6" by 12" hood?


Hoods do exist for these tanks, I have them for mine, got them at an
LFS. They have degraded a lot due to heat, I'm considering making my
own out of rain gutter material. Just too lazy to get started.


--

- Charles
-
-does not play well with others

[IDzine01]

>I'm thinking yours was missing as well.

Awww. Bummer! Well, I bought it over a year ago, so I'll just suck up
the loss I guess. Now I know for next time. Thanks.

>By the way....what screen name do you use on the Advanced Betta
boards?

We have an Advanced Betta Board? Doah. I had no idea. Can you send me a
link TYNK7?

[Tom Randy]

On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 10:04:59 -0800, Larry Blanchard wrote:

> My one betta was acting psycho in a divided tank, so I bought a 2.5
> gallon for him. Not a fancy one, a regular 6"x12" square tank. The
> literature that came with it (from Perfecto) says a hood is available.
> The store (PetsMart) doesn't have them and Perfecto hasn't responded to
> my email.
>
> I've done a web search with no luck. Does anyone know where I can get a
> 6" by 12" hood?


Petco has them. Just saw them, I think they're around $5.

[Larry Blanchard]

In article >,
says...
> If you purchased it at Petsmart, it comes with a glass lid. If it was
> missing...take it back to the store or your receipt and say you didn't realize
> it was missing until you got home, etc.
It has the glass lid. I replaced it with a hinged plexiglass one that I
made. But no lights yet except a gooseneck desk fixture shining on it.

> Now, if you're thinking of a full hood...nope. You're only going to find a
> strip light that will sit on top of the glass lid (so you still need to get
> that glass lid if it was missing).

Well, Perfecto did claim they had one :-). Maybe I'll do a phone call
if I don't get email in the next day or two.

I've already made up a template for one I can make out of aluminum
sheet and wood. All I have to do is buy a socket for the lamp and cut
the glass to fit. But if I can buy one (cheaply) why bother to make
one.

> What you do is buy the 12" strip light from Petsmart in the incandescent
> version. It's MUCH cheaper than the fluorescent ones.
> However, then head on over to a Walmart and purchase a fluorescent replacement
> bulb in their fish dept. It costs around 3 bucks. No big deal. Works great!
>
I'm using the AllGlass 6500K replacement fluorescents in my 10 gallon
which is heavily planted. A little more than the Walmart ones, but
supposed to be great for plants.

And I was planning on using the same if I make the hood (or even if I
find one. The 2.5 has a few plants in it too. But I'll price the 12"
hood. IIRC, they're more than the tank :-).

Next job is to find some companions for the blue betta in the 10 gallon.
Right now I've got two otos in there, but their bioload is darn near
nonexistent and most of the time you can't see them against the sand and
gravel bottom.

I'm thinking of a couple of mollies and maybe a couple of platys as
well. Or maybe the mollies and a cory, but the otos already need
supplemental feeding because they've demolished the lava :-). Any other
suggestions?

--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

[Larry Blanchard]

In article >,
says...
> Petco has them. Just saw them, I think they're around $5.
>
Thanks. I'll look tomorrow.

--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

[Charles]

On Mon, 6 Dec 2004 10:04:59 -0800, Larry Blanchard
> wrote:

>My one betta was acting psycho in a divided tank, so I bought a 2.5
>gallon for him. Not a fancy one, a regular 6"x12" square tank. The
>literature that came with it (from Perfecto) says a hood is available.
>The store (PetsMart) doesn't have them and Perfecto hasn't responded to
>my email.
>
>I've done a web search with no luck. Does anyone know where I can get a
>6" by 12" hood?


I checked my LFS today. All-Glass Versa hood, 20 Watt fluorescent
fixture. $29.95 plus tax. For my three little tanks, about $100.
I'll pass.


--

- Charles
-
-does not play well with others

[TYNK 7]

>Subject: Re: 2.5 gallon hood
>From: "IDzine01"
>Date: 12/6/2004 4:30 PM Central Standard Time
>Message-id: . com>
>
>>I'm thinking yours was missing as well.
>
>Awww. Bummer! Well, I bought it over a year ago, so I'll just suck up
>the loss I guess. Now I know for next time. Thanks.
>
>>By the way....what screen name do you use on the Advanced Betta
>boards?
>
>We have an Advanced Betta Board? Doah. I had no idea. Can you send me a
>link TYNK7?

Ok, I guess I'm freakin nuts because I could swear you told me about it, lol.
http://groups.msn.com/AdvancedBettas/general.msnw

[IDzine01]

It's ok TYNK, you're not nuts... there's just a lot of people online
and a lot of fish boards. It's easy to get them crossed. I have been to
that site before now that I see it. I think I just lingered one day and
read some posts. I can't remember if I created an account, so I
probably didn't .

I generally advocate www.aquamaniacs.net. It's the only board I've
found with consistantly reliable advice and moderators who have been in
the trade for decades and are experienced in everything from bettas to
water treatment facilities. It's actually the only site I outwardly
recommend.

[[email protected]]

All:

A Cory has a cotton/white fungus on his left lower fin.

Have done the following:
- 5 days of Maroxy.
- An addition 5 days of Maroxy and Maracyn with no change.
- Partial water change and filtering with carbon.
- On second day of Seachem Sulfathiazole. No change.

Request advice and alternatives.

Thanks in advance.

Clark Stillman

[MarAzul]

Best I can give you...

"Fungus (Saprolegnia or Achyla)
Fungi are in fact colourless plants, they are very diverse in in form and
have not been studied that much in fish.
Saprolegnia and Achyla are genera of fungi that attack weakened and injured
fish, usually settling on damaged skin or gills, they will also attack the
eggs of fish.
The spores enter the aquarium from the air so there is no way to stop
possible outbreaks.
Threads of fungus spread under the skin forming a web like
structure and eventually produce tufts of external hyphae that may be large
enough to look like cotton wool.
These form spores that become free swimming and can then go on to infect
other fish that are weak or injured.
It is important that you remove any fish you suspect immediately to a
hospital tank for treatment.
Symptoms of fungus are a grey or whitish growth in the skin of the fish,
often associated with visible damage.
Treatment can be with Malachite green in a separate tank for 30 seconds at a
strength of 60 mg per litre, repeat treatments may be necessary.
The fungus is stained by the Malachite and usually drops off within a few
hours.
Keep the fish under observation for 2 or 3 days as fungus can sometimes
regrow. "
http://www.corydorasworld.com/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=8

--
Mar
---------
Vet Tech student


> wrote in message
ink.net...
> All:
>
> A Cory has a cotton/white fungus on his left lower fin.
>
> Have done the following:
> - 5 days of Maroxy.
> - An addition 5 days of Maroxy and Maracyn with no change.
> - Partial water change and filtering with carbon.
> - On second day of Seachem Sulfathiazole. No change.
>
> Request advice and alternatives.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Clark Stillman

[Elaine T]

wrote:
> All:
>
> A Cory has a cotton/white fungus on his left lower fin.
>
> Have done the following:
> - 5 days of Maroxy.
> - An addition 5 days of Maroxy and Maracyn with no change.
> - Partial water change and filtering with carbon.
> - On second day of Seachem Sulfathiazole. No change.
>
> Request advice and alternatives.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Clark Stillman

Fluffy stuff is either true fungus or Flexibacter. True fungus is more
common, so let's go with that. Catch the fish in a cup (cories get
stuck in nets from their spines), empty all the water, and dab malachite
green on the fungus with a Q-tip. Keep it off of his gills and eyes.
Give the medicine a moment to stain the fungus, and let him go again.
You could also try the bath Mar suggested - I've always just dabbed the
stuff right on the fungus if it's cory sized because a malachite bath is
so hard on the fish.

If the fungus doesn't stain green and improve dramatically in 12-24
hours, it may be the much rarer Flexibacter columnaris. In that case
you will have to use an antibiotic food. Put the fish in quarantine and
soak its usual food in an oxytetracycline slurry. Remove uneaten food
promptly to keep antibiotic out of the water so your biofilter stays
intact. Treat like this for 10 days. Once the fish is out of
quarantine, do not transfer any quarantine water to your main tank and
thoroughly sterilize the quarantine tank. This avoids developing
resistant strains of Flexibacter that could wipe out your tank in the
future.

--
Elaine T __
http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com

[IDzine01]

Elaine,
Is it that cories specifically don't get columnaris as often as true
fungus? I know with some other species it's the other way around.
Flexibacter is very common but true fungus is quite rare and usually
infects dead tissue.

I'm curious because I just got my first cories recently for my
community tank and I would have assumed the same went for them so if
that's not the case it would be good to know.

Thanks,
C

[Elaine T]

IDzine01 wrote:
> Elaine,
> Is it that cories specifically don't get columnaris as often as true
> fungus? I know with some other species it's the other way around.
> Flexibacter is very common but true fungus is quite rare and usually
> infects dead tissue.
>
> I'm curious because I just got my first cories recently for my
> community tank and I would have assumed the same went for them so if
> that's not the case it would be good to know.
>
> Thanks,
> C
>
IME, Flexibacter is rare period. The LFS where I worked actually
cultured out infections and we almost never grew Flexibacter out on
plates from fuzzy-looking infections. That's a good thing because
Flexibacter is quite contagious and can wipe out a tank in days.

The real Flexibacter infections we had at the store almost always
started at the mouth, or sometimes the vent. The "mouth fungus"
nickname is very true. Then fish started showing cottony tufts on their
fins, refusing food, and dying because the infection is often internal
as well as external.

Fish can get hurt a lot of ways in tanks and end up with true fungus.
On decorations - especially lava rock, by fights with other fish, by
something trying to eat them, or by having their spines and/or fins get
caught in a net while they're being handled.

--
Elaine T __
http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com

[[email protected]]

Many thanks to Elaine and others who responded.

Elaine's suggestion worked. However, the Cory only survived a
few days and passed on. I suspect that there was further fungal infection
within the fish, but do not know for sure.

Is it necessary to take any specific action at this point? No other fish in
the
tank has developed fungus.

Clark Stillman

[Elaine T]

wrote:
> Many thanks to Elaine and others who responded.
>
> Elaine's suggestion worked. However, the Cory only survived a
> few days and passed on. I suspect that there was further fungal infection
> within the fish, but do not know for sure.
>
> Is it necessary to take any specific action at this point? No other fish in
> the
> tank has developed fungus.
>
> Clark Stillman

Aww. Sorry he didn't live.

I would do some extra water changes and test for pH stability, ammonia
and nitrites to be sure the tank is as healthy as possible for the other
fish. Then just keep an eye on things.

--
Elaine T __
http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com