Tetra Gold-Medal pellet food

[[email protected]]

Uh anyone familiar with Tetra GoldMedal? yeah thats rite, i bought
their product a month ago, promised by Tetra that Tetra Gold Medal will
help goldfish with their digestion n such, with spirulina n stuff like
that ie. help prevent swimbladder disorders. But so far Tetra Gold
hasn't proven to me that it's a revolutionary product. my oranda still
has a swimbladder problem. What do u guys give ur goldfish, what
brands? I've just wasted about 7 Euros buying the crap.
JOHN

[Kellbot]

I feed mine Hikari Lionhead and Hikari Gold Oranda, sinking and
floating pellets, respectively. I also give them some peas, every few
weeks or so just to make sure everything is moving along. I'll give
them some fruit or veggies when we have them in the house, but I'm in
college so fresh veggies don't come into the house too often.
I also give them some freeze dried bloodworms occasionally.

[Tom L. La Bron]

John,

Don't know what is available across the pond (in Europe), but I feed my fish
Sho-Gold, Pro-Gold, and a commerical brand, because of the number of fish
that I feed through the year.

Nothing you feed is going to prevent swimbladder disease. This problem can
be caused by so many things, especially genetics, that it is a constant
problem with goldfish keepers and round bodied fish. As a breeder of
goldfish any fish that shows this condition is desposed of for I don't want
the trait passed on to other generations. My fish are very seldom ever
sick, so if and when it shows up I figure it is a genetic disposition and
act appropriately.

I do know one thing is you feed fry to 9 months old high protein feeds
(40-60%) continuously after the 9 nine month period you will get floaters.
It is best to feed fry high protein feed to 6 months and then decrease the
protein levels to the 30+ percentage.

What is sold in Europe is not necessarily the same as what is sold here in
the States. A fish food around 30-35% protein is best, spirulina is good.
Feeding small portions frequently is best for the fish. During growth
periods, where I live, I feed 5 to 6 times a day what is equivalent to 2% of
the fish body weight divided up to feed these 5 to 6 portions through the
day. Maintenance levels are equivalent to 1% of the fish's body weight.

Maybe some one in your area can give you guidance as to what to feed your
fish. The Bristol Aquarium Society is probably a good start.

HTH

Tom L.L.
-----------------------
> wrote in message
oups.com...
>
> Uh anyone familiar with Tetra GoldMedal? yeah thats rite, i bought
> their product a month ago, promised by Tetra that Tetra Gold Medal will
> help goldfish with their digestion n such, with spirulina n stuff like
> that ie. help prevent swimbladder disorders. But so far Tetra Gold
> hasn't proven to me that it's a revolutionary product. my oranda still
> has a swimbladder problem. What do u guys give ur goldfish, what
> brands? I've just wasted about 7 Euros buying the crap.
> JOHN
>

[Kellbot]

hm, i'd never heard that about high protein foods.

I'm not sure how old my fish are, but judging from the size of the they
can't be more than 9 months old. The only lower protien food I have is
some Top Fin pellets I got for free with my filter. Should I stop
feeding them the Hikari pellets? Or start feeding them more veggies?

[Tom L. La Bron]

Kellbot,

May be I didn't make it clear. The fish (fry) are fed high protein foods
from fry stage to 9 months where there may be a problem if the spawn was
from round bodied fish such as Orandas, Ryukins, Demekins, etc. I am not
familar with Hakari Top Fin pellets, but if they are in the area of 30plus
percent protein range they are fine.

If is good to feed a variety of foods also. Feeding one at one time and
another different food at a different time.

Veggies are good, but usually only once a day is fine. Peas are about the
best route.

Tom L.L.
----------------------------------------------------
"Kellbot" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> hm, i'd never heard that about high protein foods.
>
> I'm not sure how old my fish are, but judging from the size of the they
> can't be more than 9 months old. The only lower protien food I have is
> some Top Fin pellets I got for free with my filter. Should I stop
> feeding them the Hikari pellets? Or start feeding them more veggies?
>

[Geezer From The Freezer]

"Tom L. La Bron" wrote:
>
> Veggies are good, but usually only once a day is fine. Peas are about the
> best route.
>

Remember to shell the peas, I've read of people not doing this! ;)

[[email protected]]

Tom L. La Bron wrote:
> John,
>
> Don't know what is available across the pond (in Europe), but I feed
my fish
> Sho-Gold, Pro-Gold, and a commerical brand, because of the number of
fish
> that I feed through the year.
>
> Nothing you feed is going to prevent swimbladder disease. This
problem can
> be caused by so many things, especially genetics, that it is a
constant
> problem with goldfish keepers and round bodied fish. As a breeder of

> goldfish any fish that shows this condition is desposed of for I
don't want
> the trait passed on to other generations. My fish are very seldom
ever
> sick, so if and when it shows up I figure it is a genetic disposition
and
> act appropriately.
>
> I do know one thing is you feed fry to 9 months old high protein
feeds
> (40-60%) continuously after the 9 nine month period you will get
floaters.
> It is best to feed fry high protein feed to 6 months and then
decrease the
> protein levels to the 30+ percentage.
>
> What is sold in Europe is not necessarily the same as what is sold
here in
> the States. A fish food around 30-35% protein is best, spirulina is
good.
> Feeding small portions frequently is best for the fish. During
growth
> periods, where I live, I feed 5 to 6 times a day what is equivalent
to 2% of
> the fish body weight divided up to feed these 5 to 6 portions through
the
> day. Maintenance levels are equivalent to 1% of the fish's body
weight.
>
> Maybe some one in your area can give you guidance as to what to feed
your
> fish. The Bristol Aquarium Society is probably a good start.
>
> HTH
>
> Tom L.L.

Tom LL,
In the book I have about keeping fancy goldfish, it says that fish that
are suffering from swimbladder problems and that cannot be treated
(which is the case in one of my orandas) should be best "painlessly
destroyed". Now how the heck do i do that to my oranda? And BTW, my
orandas r about 1 n a half inches long, so how young or old would they
be?
JOHN

[John D. Goulden]

> In the book I have about keeping fancy goldfish, it says that fish that
> are suffering from swimbladder problems and that cannot be treated
> (which is the case in one of my orandas) should be best "painlessly
> destroyed". Now how the heck do i do that to my oranda?

My preferred method is to put the fish in a cup of tank water and put it in
the freezer. As the water cools the fish "goes to sleep" and passes on to
the Great Beyond without undue suffering. At least I hope so...

--
John Goulden

[Tom L. La Bron]

John,

Size is not necessarily and indicator of age of a goldfish. If it is 1 1/2
inches long it could be anytrhing from 3 to 12 months old or even older
depending on how it was raised. If it is that small and is predisposed to
floating you might as well get rid of it. The easiest way is putting it in
a ziplock bag with water over it so it can swim and sticking it in the
freezer and let it go quitely.

Tom L.L.
-------------------------------------------


> wrote in message
oups.com...
>

> Tom LL,
> In the book I have about keeping fancy goldfish, it says that fish that
> are suffering from swimbladder problems and that cannot be treated
> (which is the case in one of my orandas) should be best "painlessly
> destroyed". Now how the heck do i do that to my oranda? And BTW, my
> orandas r about 1 n a half inches long, so how young or old would they
> be?
> JOHN
>

[Geezer From The Freezer]

Best method is to put fish in a container with tank water and add clove oil.
It will put your fish to sleep.