Aeration?

[Lisa]

Hello,

Well, my new 50-g bow-front is up and running. No fish yet until we
get our parameters adjusted. I have an under-mount filter called a
"Fluval 404." It sits on the floor, outside the tank (underneath in
the tank stand), and it connects through 2 hoses. There is a spout
just below the waterline, which jets the filtered water into the tank.
Here is a link with a photo: http://www.aquariumguys.com/fluval404.html


This might be a dumb question, but is this enough for aeration? In
both our 10-g and 6-g tanks, we had bio-wheel filters and an oxygen
bubble-wall, powered by an air pump. This is my first experience with
larger tanks. Is this kind of a filter (the Fluval) enough for
aeration or oxygenation purposes? (I know it's probably quite good for
filtration purposes.) Should I put in air stones or bubble walls, too,
or would that be overkill?

Also, the current generated by the filter unit seems very strong. Is
this a good thing? What about gourmais and other labyrinth fishes -
don't they prefer calmer waters? I can adjust the water flow so that
the current is not as strong, but I wasn't sure if this impacts
filtration/aeration. Am I constrained to keeping fish that only like
swifter currents?

Thanks,

- Lisa

[Ozdude]

"Lisa" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> Hello,
>
> Well, my new 50-g bow-front is up and running. No fish yet until we
> get our parameters adjusted. I have an under-mount filter called a
> "Fluval 404." It sits on the floor, outside the tank (underneath in
> the tank stand), and it connects through 2 hoses. There is a spout
> just below the waterline, which jets the filtered water into the tank.
> Here is a link with a photo: http://www.aquariumguys.com/fluval404.html

That's a canister filter.
>
>
> This might be a dumb question, but is this enough for aeration? In
> both our 10-g and 6-g tanks, we had bio-wheel filters and an oxygen
> bubble-wall, powered by an air pump. This is my first experience with
> larger tanks. Is this kind of a filter (the Fluval) enough for
> aeration or oxygenation purposes? (I know it's probably quite good for
> filtration purposes.) Should I put in air stones or bubble walls, too,
> or would that be overkill?

Do you have live plants in your tank? If not, then use an airwall/stone or
make the canister return agitate the water surface, if you ar concerned
about oxygenation.
>
> Also, the current generated by the filter unit seems very strong. Is
> this a good thing? What about gourmais and other labyrinth fishes -
> don't they prefer calmer waters? I can adjust the water flow so that
> the current is not as strong, but I wasn't sure if this impacts
> filtration/aeration. Am I constrained to keeping fish that only like
> swifter currents?

Not necesarrily. I have had Paradise Fish previously which are somewhat like
Gourami with regard to current. What I did was direct the filter outputs at
a corner or something to diffuse the direct current. The fish soon found
calm spots and enjoyed an occasional flutter in the currents anyway. They
take air from the surface as natural behaviour/adaptation so it was okay to
have the filter output submerged (quieter too).

If you can't control the current by redirection and flow reduction, then
most Tetras will love your new tank. They love nothing more than a battle
against a current and are quite a sight to watch "excercising" in this
manner.

I'd recommend you get a lot of live plants though if your worried about
oxygen.

You don't have to worry about Labyrinth Fish because they will just get air
from the surface anyway, and the important thing with oxygenating is that
you break the water surface because the bubbles in the water don't do a hell
of a lot in oxgenating the actual water body.

If you have other types of fish, the simple test would be to observe for a
few days (particularly in the morning before the lights come on) and see if
any fish (besides Labyrinth types) are gasping at the surface (assuming no
chemical problems). It's quite rare if you have plants in there, but it may
happen, in which case then only use your air stone at night when the plants
aren't photosynthesising.



Oz
>
> Thanks,
>
> - Lisa
>

[NetMax]

"Lisa" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> Hello,
>
> Well, my new 50-g bow-front is up and running. No fish yet until we
> get our parameters adjusted. I have an under-mount filter called a
> "Fluval 404." It sits on the floor, outside the tank (underneath in
> the tank stand), and it connects through 2 hoses. There is a spout
> just below the waterline, which jets the filtered water into the tank.
> Here is a link with a photo: http://www.aquariumguys.com/fluval404.html
>
>
> This might be a dumb question, but is this enough for aeration? In
> both our 10-g and 6-g tanks, we had bio-wheel filters and an oxygen
> bubble-wall, powered by an air pump. This is my first experience with
> larger tanks. Is this kind of a filter (the Fluval) enough for
> aeration or oxygenation purposes? (I know it's probably quite good for
> filtration purposes.) Should I put in air stones or bubble walls, too,
> or would that be overkill?
>
> Also, the current generated by the filter unit seems very strong. Is
> this a good thing? What about gourmais and other labyrinth fishes -
> don't they prefer calmer waters? I can adjust the water flow so that
> the current is not as strong, but I wasn't sure if this impacts
> filtration/aeration. Am I constrained to keeping fish that only like
> swifter currents?
>
> Thanks,
>
> - Lisa


Very good questions and valid concerns regarding the labyrinths. The
general consensus (long established now) is that the extra bubbles are
not significant to the amount of O2 in a properly filtered/circulated
aquarium. They found that a far greater amount of the re-oxygenation was
occurring from the movement of water within the first few inches of the
surface. Your canister filter more than meets this requirement (in
anything resembling a normally loaded tank). You can still add a bubble
wand and you might even see the fish perk up a bit as it does provide a
small O2 boost, but it's not generally considered part of the basic
aquarium's requirements anymore (which is a good thing if you ever needed
a quiet airpump ;~).

Regarding the direction you orient the outflow, I usually adjust this
depending on where I've positioned the intake, size of tank, type of
substrate, type of fish etc etc etc. Often the idea is to set up a mild
circular flow, minimizing the effect on fish which like calmer water
(Discus, Angelfish etc) and still providing enough flow for those that
like the exercise (most long thin fish). I then use driftwood and/or
rocks to further create calm eddies. In a small tank, this is even more
important - but frustrating, but in a larger tank, it's much easier to
provide a range of water flows. Note that as your Fluval fills, its flow
will decrease a bit (but not a lot). Plants will also slow the currents
down (plastic or real).

Considering the size & shape of your tank, you should be able to find a
happy medium by pointing the output from somewhere along the back towards
one of the sides (30-45 degrees). This should cause a nice roll across
the bowfront, with calm areas in the middle and opposite side of the
tank.

Note that you can reduce the flow, and increase it as you stock the tank.
The high turbulence is primarily for mechanical filtering. Your primary
concern is biological filtration (which takes very little flow,
50-100gph), and the O2 requirement will increase with your fish-load (so
increase the filter's output as you go along). hth
--
www.NetMax.tk