Mike Hartigan
January 13th 05, 07:12 PM
I originally posted these questions in alt.home.repair, but never got
any responses. It looks like this subject is discussed far more often
in this group, so I thought I'd post it here.
I've been shopping for a replacement TFC membrane for my RO system,
primarily for drinking. This system was originally equipped with a
50gpd membrane. My
understanding is that I can change the capacity by using a different
capacity membrane and a suitable flow restrictor. A few questions
come to mind:
1. If 50 gpd serves my needs adequately (indeed, it's overkill),
would there be any benefit if I 'upgrade' to 100 gpd? What if I
'downgrade' to 35 gpd?
2. What is the impact of using an incorrect flow restrictor? My
existing flow restrictor is 500ml. If I use a 100 gpd membrane with
this flow restrictor, will my water quality be positively or
negatively impacted? What about a 35 gpd membrane? How about the
life of the membrane?
3. Given the answer to #2, could I improve the quality of the water
simply by changing the flow restrictor to something other than the
recommended rate, albeit at the expense of a shorter membrane life or
increased waste? (I live in the Great Lakes drainage basin, so don't
lecture me about water conservation for the sake of water
conservation - it's largely a symbolic gesture in this part of the
world)
4. Will a 100 gpd membrane last longer than a 50 gpd membrane, given
the same usage and the correct flow restrictor?
5. Is a higher capacity membrane (from the same manufacturer, each
with the correct flow restrictor) more/less/equally effective at
removing gunk from the water than a lower capacity membrane, all else
being equal, including usage?
6. Would additional storage capacity (bigger/additional tank) be a
'better' solution than increased membrane capacity for the occasional
higher-usage day? (a couple gallons of back-to-back iced tea or
lemonade is pretty much the limit of my system)
7. Is there any advantage of resin over steel for storage tanks?
What is the life expectancy of a storage tank? Is tank failure
typically associated with the bladder or the tank itself? How much
pressure should an empty tank be charged with?
7. Is DI overkill for household use? What about UV?
8. Where can I get information on how these beasts work with the goal
of being able to answer such questions myself? (the web seems sorely
lacking in such information - or perhaps it's just a problem with my
choice of search engine)
I know I've asked a lot of questions. For some reason, the bug bit
me and I absolutely need to know.
Thanks,
Mike
any responses. It looks like this subject is discussed far more often
in this group, so I thought I'd post it here.
I've been shopping for a replacement TFC membrane for my RO system,
primarily for drinking. This system was originally equipped with a
50gpd membrane. My
understanding is that I can change the capacity by using a different
capacity membrane and a suitable flow restrictor. A few questions
come to mind:
1. If 50 gpd serves my needs adequately (indeed, it's overkill),
would there be any benefit if I 'upgrade' to 100 gpd? What if I
'downgrade' to 35 gpd?
2. What is the impact of using an incorrect flow restrictor? My
existing flow restrictor is 500ml. If I use a 100 gpd membrane with
this flow restrictor, will my water quality be positively or
negatively impacted? What about a 35 gpd membrane? How about the
life of the membrane?
3. Given the answer to #2, could I improve the quality of the water
simply by changing the flow restrictor to something other than the
recommended rate, albeit at the expense of a shorter membrane life or
increased waste? (I live in the Great Lakes drainage basin, so don't
lecture me about water conservation for the sake of water
conservation - it's largely a symbolic gesture in this part of the
world)
4. Will a 100 gpd membrane last longer than a 50 gpd membrane, given
the same usage and the correct flow restrictor?
5. Is a higher capacity membrane (from the same manufacturer, each
with the correct flow restrictor) more/less/equally effective at
removing gunk from the water than a lower capacity membrane, all else
being equal, including usage?
6. Would additional storage capacity (bigger/additional tank) be a
'better' solution than increased membrane capacity for the occasional
higher-usage day? (a couple gallons of back-to-back iced tea or
lemonade is pretty much the limit of my system)
7. Is there any advantage of resin over steel for storage tanks?
What is the life expectancy of a storage tank? Is tank failure
typically associated with the bladder or the tank itself? How much
pressure should an empty tank be charged with?
7. Is DI overkill for household use? What about UV?
8. Where can I get information on how these beasts work with the goal
of being able to answer such questions myself? (the web seems sorely
lacking in such information - or perhaps it's just a problem with my
choice of search engine)
I know I've asked a lot of questions. For some reason, the bug bit
me and I absolutely need to know.
Thanks,
Mike