Backwashing Pool Filters

[John >]

Is there enough pressure while backwashing a pool sand filter to pump the
waste UP 10' then across the room and down 30' away?

NetMax How big is Your sand filter and what kind of load is on it?

Noise?

JOhn ><>

[NetMax]

"John ><>" > wrote in
message ...
> Is there enough pressure while backwashing a pool sand filter to pump
> the waste UP 10' then across the room and down 30' away?
>
> NetMax How big is Your sand filter and what kind of load is on it?
>
> Noise?
>
> JOhn ><>


Regarding pumping up 10', the correct answer is to acquire the pump
specifications on head pressure vs pump output, and look it up. The
sloppy answer is probably. They aren't designed for head pressure, but
the conventional pool pump is quite strong, *but* will get very warm if
left in this state for long. I saw one running about 40 tanks at about
6' head pressure, 24/7. The 30' horizontal is no problem, but use fair
sized piping (5"?).

Regarding the sand filter (another install), I'm not around that anymore
to read the specs. It was an average looking sand filter, perhaps 2' in
diameter. Pool pump was what you would typically see on a 22' to 26'
diameter above ground pool. It was the pond designer who installed them.
I checked google to see if I could narrow it down more, but that was a
mistake. There are many types, but up here in Canada, I don't think we
see the same selection.

Regarding load, for one install it was wide open and for the pond in the
pictures, throttled back about 1/3.

Regarding noise, oh yeah. Put it in a room somewhere, and close the
door.

A bit of research and you would probably narrow your selection much
better to your application. My role is to throw ideas into the wind, and
list problems I've heard. I'm sure there exists quiet pool pumps (in
Beverly Hills ;~), and sand filter options which would more suit
aquariums/ponds. Incidentally, pool sand filters operate backwards as
compared to fluidized sand filters used on aquariums. The pool filters
let the water flow down through a wider diameter, rather than up, to
'fluidize' the sand *useful trivia when connecting them*.

As long as you're going industrial strength, add a carbon filter in your
cold water supply (to replenish the tank replacing backwash losses).
About 1cu.ft. of carbon will keep you chlorine/chloramine clear for a
long time (at least a year). Then the next step is to add a waterflow
controller (I've used the ones from Home Depot to turn on water
sprinklers for lawns). Program this for your automatic water changes
(have an overflow collector linked or under your sump filter, leading to
a drain). Personally, I love automated water changers, but I like big
tanks and I'm major lazy, so they are a good add-on for me ;~). Every
aquarium should come with a big red button on the side labelled water
change, which you could push with one finger every Saturday, without even
putting your drink down :o). The main problem with automatic water
changers (besides the drain plumbing) is having to meter de-chlorinator
in, which is where the carbon filter comes in. I've also read that you
can use UV light to break down chlorine/chloramine bonds, but I don't
know the frequency, or if a bulb even exists in the needed frequency, or
if there are any impracticalities to it, so the conventional way is to
use carbon (and there is a high grade carbon recommended for greater
longevity if used with medium-high chloramine concentrations).

just ideas into the wind ;~)
--
www.NetMax.tk