DIY Tank Stand

[Newbie Bill]

Hi group - Well, I have tried to research this but I am spending quite a
while making little progress. Your comments or direction would be greatly
appreciated. I am wanted to build a cheap standard 29 gal tank stand. What I
am imagining would be essentially using 2x4's - 2 rectangles top and bottom
of stand, connected vertically my 4 posts. Probably a piece of plywood on
top, maybe one on bottom to make a shelf, not necessarily any on the sides.
This will actually be lodged in a corner with the third side being a sturdy
dresser (same height as tank) where another tank sits.

I suspect I could come close on this by just start sawing and driving in
some screws. I also suspect there are things that I havent thought off.
There is definitely simple stuff I dont know, like whether the 2" side or 4"
side would face forward, any additional bracing required. Quite
significantly I have found a few plans, but inevitably for larger tanks
which call for $12 worth of lumber and $40 worth of L brackets. Are these
required on smaller tanks? The last gyration is also significant. Lastly
could this be made for a 29 gallon (my goal) but used for a 15 or 20 gallon.
I have an unused 15 and can probably find a very cheap 20 pretty easily. I
kinda know the weight bearing 'studs' should be under the edges, but don't
know several pieces of plywood would hold the lesser weights - extra studs
on the top?

Anyways - just a site for a cheap 29 gallon stand would be great. An answer
to my multi tank use question would be a bonus.
Thanxx
Bill

[Dances_With_Ferrets]

Newbie Bill wrote:
> Hi group - Well, I have tried to research this but I am spending
quite a
> while making little progress. Your comments or direction would be
greatly
> appreciated. I am wanted to build a cheap standard 29 gal tank stand.
What I
> am imagining would be essentially using 2x4's - 2 rectangles top and
bottom
> of stand, connected vertically my 4 posts. Probably a piece of
plywood on
> top, maybe one on bottom to make a shelf, not necessarily any on the
sides.
> This will actually be lodged in a corner with the third side being a
sturdy
> dresser (same height as tank) where another tank sits.
>
> I suspect I could come close on this by just start sawing and driving
in
> some screws. I also suspect there are things that I havent thought
off.
> There is definitely simple stuff I dont know, like whether the 2"
side or 4"
> side would face forward, any additional bracing required. Quite
> significantly I have found a few plans, but inevitably for larger
tanks
> which call for $12 worth of lumber and $40 worth of L brackets. Are
these
> required on smaller tanks? The last gyration is also significant.
Lastly
> could this be made for a 29 gallon (my goal) but used for a 15 or 20
gallon.
> I have an unused 15 and can probably find a very cheap 20 pretty
easily. I
> kinda know the weight bearing 'studs' should be under the edges, but
don't
> know several pieces of plywood would hold the lesser weights - extra
studs
> on the top?
>
> Anyways - just a site for a cheap 29 gallon stand would be great. An
answer
> to my multi tank use question would be a bonus.
> Thanxx
> Bill

[Dances_With_Ferrets]

Seems like an awful lot of trouble for something that may not come out
looking furniture-grade...especially considering the insane price of
lumber these days. This may be a bit off subject, but I've always had
the best luck just getting a sturdy wood dresser or bookcase from a
flea market or junk store (for pennies on the dollar) and
refurbishing/repainting it.... then you have a functional tank stand
that doubles as storage space for other things. Then again, this may
not be your cup of tea, but I figured I'd drop the suggestion to ya :).
Good luck finding or building that stand.

[humBill]

You may be right. My problem? is a 29 gallon stand would just barely fit
with me having to move my other dresser and tank past that portion of the
wall and more out into the room. And of course finding a used dresser/desk
just the right width and approximate height is difficult. Perhaps a should
check though and make sure the lumber estimates for the 'cheap' stands
weren't outdated (if I can find them).
Bill

"Dances_With_Ferrets" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> Seems like an awful lot of trouble for something that may not come out
> looking furniture-grade...especially considering the insane price of
> lumber these days. This may be a bit off subject, but I've always had
> the best luck just getting a sturdy wood dresser or bookcase from a
> flea market or junk store (for pennies on the dollar) and
> refurbishing/repainting it.... then you have a functional tank stand
> that doubles as storage space for other things. Then again, this may
> not be your cup of tea, but I figured I'd drop the suggestion to ya :).
> Good luck finding or building that stand.
>

[Bill Stock]

"Newbie Bill" > wrote in message
m...
> Hi group - Well, I have tried to research this but I am spending quite a
> while making little progress. Your comments or direction would be greatly
> appreciated. I am wanted to build a cheap standard 29 gal tank stand. What
> I am imagining would be essentially using 2x4's - 2 rectangles top and
> bottom of stand, connected vertically my 4 posts. Probably a piece of
> plywood on top, maybe one on bottom to make a shelf, not necessarily any
> on the sides. This will actually be lodged in a corner with the third side
> being a sturdy dresser (same height as tank) where another tank sits.

That's the basic design I've seen without getting too fancy. 2x4s are a bit
of overkill for a 29 gallon. The stand for my 75 is built along these lines
(more posts), except I used half lap joints for the corners and skinned it
with oak plywood.


> I suspect I could come close on this by just start sawing and driving in
> some screws. I also suspect there are things that I havent thought off.
> There is definitely simple stuff I dont know, like whether the 2" side or
> 4" side would face forward, any additional bracing required. Quite
> significantly I have found a few plans, but inevitably for larger tanks
> which call for $12 worth of lumber and $40 worth of L brackets. Are these
> required on smaller tanks? The last gyration is also significant. Lastly
> could this be made for a 29 gallon (my goal) but used for a 15 or 20
> gallon. I have an unused 15 and can probably find a very cheap 20 pretty
> easily. I kinda know the weight bearing 'studs' should be under the
> edges, but don't know several pieces of plywood would hold the lesser
> weights - extra studs on the top?

I don't think the post alignment matters too much, except that the post
should support BOTH sides of your rectangle above. You also want to use
glue, screwing is not good enough. Some scrap plywood in the corners of your
rectangle will also help keeps things square while your glue is drying. I
also suggest a plywood back to prevent racking.

> Anyways - just a site for a cheap 29 gallon stand would be great. An
> answer to my multi tank use question would be a bonus.
> Thanxx
> Bill
>
>
>

[humBill]

"Bill Stock" > wrote in message
...

>
> I don't think the post alignment matters too much, except that the post
> should support BOTH sides of your rectangle above. You also want to use
> glue, screwing is not good enough. Some scrap plywood in the corners of
> your rectangle will also help keeps things square while your glue is
> drying. I also suggest a plywood back to prevent racking.
>
I wondered about that, since most cheap put together bookcases will have
that cardboard back you tack on. I guess you just drill a few holes for
wires and tubes? Thanxx
Bill

[Bill Stock]

"humBill" > wrote in message
om...
>
> "Bill Stock" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>
>> I don't think the post alignment matters too much, except that the post
>> should support BOTH sides of your rectangle above. You also want to use
>> glue, screwing is not good enough. Some scrap plywood in the corners of
>> your rectangle will also help keeps things square while your glue is
>> drying. I also suggest a plywood back to prevent racking.
>>
> I wondered about that, since most cheap put together bookcases will have
> that cardboard back you tack on. I guess you just drill a few holes for
> wires and tubes? Thanxx
> Bill

Yep, doesn't have to be very thick, 1/4" plywood will do. You might consider
doing the sides as well. Probably best if you glue this on as well. You can
always drill extra holes afterwards (DAMHIKT), if your filter needs change.
Just make sure to support the holes you're drilling to prevent tear out. If
you have to drill extra holes after it's all built, a 2x4 and some long
clamps lets you drill without the tear out.

[Tedd Jacobs]

"Bill Stock" wrote...
>
> "humBill" > wrote in message
> om...
>>
>> "Bill Stock" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>
>>>
>>> I don't think the post alignment matters too much, except that the post
>>> should support BOTH sides of your rectangle above. You also want to use
>>> glue, screwing is not good enough. Some scrap plywood in the corners of
>>> your rectangle will also help keeps things square while your glue is
>>> drying. I also suggest a plywood back to prevent racking.
>>>
>> I wondered about that, since most cheap put together bookcases will have
>> that cardboard back you tack on. I guess you just drill a few holes for
>> wires and tubes? Thanxx
>> Bill
>
> Yep, doesn't have to be very thick, 1/4" plywood will do. You might
> consider doing the sides as well. Probably best if you glue this on as
> well. You can always drill extra holes afterwards (DAMHIKT), if your
> filter needs change. Just make sure to support the holes you're drilling
> to prevent tear out. If you have to drill extra holes after it's all
> built, a 2x4 and some long clamps lets you drill without the tear out.

seconded. alot of stability comes from using glue on the joints and from a
backing. for a 29 gal. you can easily get by with 1/2" ply (or simular
material) for backing, as an abut i'd suggest sides as well. for my 25 gal.
i have 3/4" sides and top (with two shevles) MDF with 1/8" backing. another
very useful feature to include is levelers (leveling feet; standardly the
screw type).

tedd.


--
How can i be an A(nthro)pologist? I dont have an armchair.

[Sylvan Butler]

On Fri, 21 Jan 2005 11:45:52 -0500, Bill Stock > wrote:
> also suggest a plywood back to prevent racking.

And that only stops racking side-to-side. The stand can also rack
front-to-back, which is prevented by having end panels.

sdb

--
Wanted: Omnibook 800 & accessories, cheap, working or not
sdbuse1 on mailhost bigfoot.com

[NetMax]

"Newbie Bill" > wrote in message
m...
> Hi group - Well, I have tried to research this but I am spending quite
> a while making little progress. Your comments or direction would be
> greatly appreciated. I am wanted to build a cheap standard 29 gal tank
> stand. What I am imagining would be essentially using 2x4's

Generally, under 20g and many types of household furniture will do, and
over 30g and you start looking at stands. I'm not surprised that you
didn't find much on that size. I don't think you need 2x4s. Look for
melanine board, plywood (marine if you think you will be very sloppy ;~),
MDF or any other high density particle board. Most of these will swell
if exposed to water for any length of time, but for normal use, you
should be fine. Plan the cuts so you have 2 ends, a middle (same as your
ends) a back piece, 3 thin front pieces (middle & corners) and your top &
bottom. Then the sequence is cut, glue, clamp, drill, countersink and
then screw it all together. A little black paint to hide the end grain
and only you will know how little it cost ;~).

In regards to using it for smaller tank, I think that this would be fine,
provided the top is of sufficient thickness (ie: 5/8-3/4") and your
middle section is fastened to the full back and the small front piece.
Although the smaller tank is not directly over the back & ends, it will
only be a few inches away, so the weight will be supported by your
middle, and reinforced by the top.

I don't use L brackets, but I do glue, clamp, and use flathead screws to
hold everything. For larger tanks, I sometimes slot the base and cover
for the middle sections. It just looks more secure, but probably doesn't
do anything structurally significant (but then I'm no cabinet maker
either).
--
www.NetMax.tk

> Anyways - just a site for a cheap 29 gallon stand would be great. An
> answer to my multi tank use question would be a bonus.
> Thanxx
> Bill

[humBill]

"NetMax" > wrote in message
...
> Generally, under 20g and many types of household furniture will do, and
> over 30g and you start looking at stands. I'm not surprised that you
> didn't find much on that size. I don't think you need 2x4s. Look for
> melanine board, plywood (marine if you think you will be very sloppy ;~),
> MDF or any other high density particle board. Most of these will swell if
> exposed to water for any length of time, but for normal use, you should be
> fine. Plan the cuts so you have 2 ends, a middle (same as your ends) a
> back piece, 3 thin front pieces (middle & corners) and your top & bottom.
> Then the sequence is cut, glue, clamp, drill, countersink and then screw
> it all together. A little black paint to hide the end grain and only you
> will know how little it cost ;~).
>
> In regards to using it for smaller tank, I think that this would be fine,
> provided the top is of sufficient thickness (ie: 5/8-3/4") and your middle
> section is fastened to the full back and the small front piece. Although
> the smaller tank is not directly over the back & ends, it will only be a
> few inches away, so the weight will be supported by your middle, and
> reinforced by the top.
>
> I don't use L brackets, but I do glue, clamp, and use flathead screws to
> hold everything. For larger tanks, I sometimes slot the base and cover
> for the middle sections. It just looks more secure, but probably doesn't
> do anything structurally significant (but then I'm no cabinet maker
> either).


I am relatively logical and handy, but not having seen or done this before,
a few questions please. 1)The 3 thin pieces about how wide? 1 1/2"? 2)If
I'm picturing this, I'm thinking the middle vertical piece would be shorter
by the thickness of the middle 'thin' piece, so the thin piece can be put in
to support the top piece - correct? 3) Let's assume I'm using 5/8" board.
How long should the screws be? 4) Just regular wood glue- looks like
Elmer's, cept it's yellow? 5) I dont know how to clamp these pieces. I keep
envisioning pressing two parallel pieces of wood together, but don't 'see'
how to hold two piece together that are perpindicular. 6) How wide should
the shelf be for a 30" tank? 7) Just read MDF doesn't hold a screw well at
all - true?
Thanxx yet again!
Bill

[humBill]

Hello Brian - I tried to email you at b_hellerATearthlink.net
and it bounced back ampersand was used for AT =info in newgroup properties
Bill

[NetMax]

"humBill" > wrote in message
. com...
>
>
> "NetMax" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Generally, under 20g and many types of household furniture will do,
>> and over 30g and you start looking at stands. I'm not surprised that
>> you didn't find much on that size. I don't think you need 2x4s. Look
>> for melanine board, plywood (marine if you think you will be very
>> sloppy ;~), MDF or any other high density particle board. Most of
>> these will swell if exposed to water for any length of time, but for
>> normal use, you should be fine. Plan the cuts so you have 2 ends, a
>> middle (same as your ends) a back piece, 3 thin front pieces (middle &
>> corners) and your top & bottom. Then the sequence is cut, glue, clamp,
>> drill, countersink and then screw it all together. A little black
>> paint to hide the end grain and only you will know how little it cost
>> ;~).
>>
>> In regards to using it for smaller tank, I think that this would be
>> fine, provided the top is of sufficient thickness (ie: 5/8-3/4") and
>> your middle section is fastened to the full back and the small front
>> piece. Although the smaller tank is not directly over the back & ends,
>> it will only be a few inches away, so the weight will be supported by
>> your middle, and reinforced by the top.
>>
>> I don't use L brackets, but I do glue, clamp, and use flathead screws
>> to hold everything. For larger tanks, I sometimes slot the base and
>> cover for the middle sections. It just looks more secure, but
>> probably doesn't do anything structurally significant (but then I'm no
>> cabinet maker either).
>
>
> I am relatively logical and handy, but not having seen or done this
> before, a few questions please.

I'll do my best to help you without pictures (and if I fail miserably,
I'll sketch something up and post it on a web site), and remember that
I'm not a cabinet-maker (I'm just using the experience I've had building
aquarium stands and workbenches which haven't collapsed ;~).

> 1)The 3 thin pieces about how wide? 1 1/2"?

Not less than 4" for the corners. For the middle, it's just to hide the
end grain and any shelf hanger hardware you put in (shelves inside are
handy).

> 2)If I'm picturing this, I'm thinking the middle vertical piece would
> be shorter by the thickness of the middle 'thin' piece, so the thin
> piece can be put in to support the top piece - correct?

Hmmm, whatever construction method you use, the easiest way to proceed is
to respect 3 things. 1) The weight of the tank (vertical force) is NOT
supported by hardware or fasteners. The weight moves through the top and
divides into the vertical sections underneath, and then on to a bottom
piece which transfers the weight to your floor using 4 or 5 feet. 2)
There must be something added to keep your vertical pieces vertical.
This can be steel cross-bracing (often seen with IKEA furniture) or
simply a sheet of material across the back (ie: plywood) and sides. 3)
The hardware you use (brackets screws etc) are primarily to hold the
entire assembly together while the glue dries, and then later as an extra
level of security to slow the collapse (if someone were to run into it).

Returning to your question, you are constructing a sandwich with all the
vertical sections being the same length, sandwiched between your top
(shelf) and bottom (base) panels.

If the 3 main verticals (splines) are the letter I, and you were standing
in front of the tank stand looking down on it, their orientation is:
I I I

Your backboard runs the full height and width of the splines. At the
front of the stand, you add 3 vertical pieces (the facing). At the
corners, the facing starts at and covers the end grain of the outside
splines. The center facing is centered on the middle spline.

> 3) Let's assume I'm using 5/8" board. How long should the screws be?

Do I look like a carpenter? Use a #8 flathead, 1-3/4" to 1-7/8" long.
Robertson heads are the easiest to work with (a #2 I think), but I don't
know if you have that available where you live.

> 4) Just regular wood glue- looks like Elmer's, cept it's yellow?

While any wood glue would probably do, there is wood glue for outdoor
applications which is more water resistive. That is what I use. I think
mine is yellow too, instead of white.

> 5) I dont know how to clamp these pieces. I keep envisioning pressing
> two parallel pieces of wood together, but don't 'see' how to hold two
> piece together that are perpindicular.

Pipe clamp, get two. You buy a section of pipe, threaded at one end.
Then you buy a pipe clamp which is in two pieces. One piece screws to
the pipe end and the other slides to the length of the pipe. Make sure
the pipe is longer than the longest length you want to clamp.

There are many other ways to clamps something, from strap-clamps used to
secure furniture during moves, to simply weighing it down. If clamping
the splines to your base, router the contact point, mark & drill, add
glue, add screws, turn the assembly upside down and put a weight on top
(bricks, paint cans etc). Be sure it will not dry crooked though ;~).
You can add some smaller clamps to 4x4s at the spline base to hold them
perpendicular.

> 6) How wide should the shelf be for a 30" tank?

I like to make my shelf 1" longer and 1" wider than the tank base. I
don't like the tank on edge. By centering the tank, I have a 1/2" extra
all the way around. Sometimes I add a piece of tall baseboard trim to
that 1/2" which comes up and hides the black plastic trim of the tank.

Underneath the shelf, the backboard, splines and facing do not reach the
edges of the shelf. I usually have them about 2" inset all the way
around. This means the tank edge does not line up exactly with the
splines, but for small tanks and a proper thickness shelf, this is not a
problem.

>7) Just read MDF doesn't hold a screw well at all - true?

I've already stuck my neck out far enough for you, that the carpenters
and cabinet-makers will be smirking at my construction methods and
descriptions, so there is no way I'm getting into a discussion on the
properties of particle boards ;~). Use a 1/2" or 5/8" plywood if you're
worried, or if you already have the MDF, plane the edges (so the glue
soaks in), and use longer thinner screws (ie: 2-1/4" #8). Remember that
the screws are mostly to hold it together while the glue dries (put a
drop of glue in the screw hole and it will help hold everything
together). The splines hold the tank up and the backboard and facing hold
the splines up.

It not like building a battleship ;~), 30g is under 300lbs of a static
load. A single sheet of 5/8" plywood on edge could probably hold 300lbs.
An aquarium stand just has to be flat and braced so it stays vertical,
however my directions are no substitute for an existing familiarity with
basic carpentry, so ymmv.
--
www.NetMax.tk

> Thanxx yet again!
> Bill

[Larry Blanchard]

In article >,
says...
> I don't think you need 2x4s. Look for
> melanine board, plywood (marine if you think you will be very sloppy ;~),
> MDF or any other high density particle board.
>
As a woodworker, I know that MDF, whether or not covered with Melamine,
will sag over time. In fact, any non-grain (i.e. no long fibers)
material will. In this application this may not be a problem if the
ends of the aquarium are right next to the ends of the stand, but I'd
use plywood, or even a torsion box, to avoid the possibility.

--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

[humBill]

Thanxx NetMax - You did an excellent job of describing what was not obvious
to my minds eye at first but I think now is. I appreciate you taking all
that time and sticking your neck out to ridicule:). Between you working the
hard head parts out with me and the other helpful suggestions I think I can
move forward. I'll let you know how and when it turns out.
Bill

"NetMax" > wrote in message
...
> "humBill" > wrote in message
> . com...
>>
>>
>> "NetMax" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> Generally, under 20g and many types of household furniture will do, and
>>> over 30g and you start looking at stands. I'm not surprised that you
>>> didn't find much on that size. I don't think you need 2x4s. Look for
>>> melanine board, plywood (marine if you think you will be very sloppy
>>> ;~), MDF or any other high density particle board. Most of these will
>>> swell if exposed to water for any length of time, but for normal use,
>>> you should be fine. Plan the cuts so you have 2 ends, a middle (same as
>>> your ends) a back piece, 3 thin front pieces (middle & corners) and your
>>> top & bottom. Then the sequence is cut, glue, clamp, drill, countersink
>>> and then screw it all together. A little black paint to hide the end
>>> grain and only you will know how little it cost ;~).
>>>
>>> In regards to using it for smaller tank, I think that this would be
>>> fine, provided the top is of sufficient thickness (ie: 5/8-3/4") and
>>> your middle section is fastened to the full back and the small front
>>> piece. Although the smaller tank is not directly over the back & ends,
>>> it will only be a few inches away, so the weight will be supported by
>>> your middle, and reinforced by the top.
>>>
>>> I don't use L brackets, but I do glue, clamp, and use flathead screws to
>>> hold everything. For larger tanks, I sometimes slot the base and cover
>>> for the middle sections. It just looks more secure, but probably
>>> doesn't do anything structurally significant (but then I'm no cabinet
>>> maker either).
>>
>>
>> I am relatively logical and handy, but not having seen or done this
>> before, a few questions please.
>
> I'll do my best to help you without pictures (and if I fail miserably,
> I'll sketch something up and post it on a web site), and remember that I'm
> not a cabinet-maker (I'm just using the experience I've had building
> aquarium stands and workbenches which haven't collapsed ;~).
>
>> 1)The 3 thin pieces about how wide? 1 1/2"?
>
> Not less than 4" for the corners. For the middle, it's just to hide the
> end grain and any shelf hanger hardware you put in (shelves inside are
> handy).
>
>> 2)If I'm picturing this, I'm thinking the middle vertical piece would be
>> shorter by the thickness of the middle 'thin' piece, so the thin piece
>> can be put in to support the top piece - correct?
>
> Hmmm, whatever construction method you use, the easiest way to proceed is
> to respect 3 things. 1) The weight of the tank (vertical force) is NOT
> supported by hardware or fasteners. The weight moves through the top and
> divides into the vertical sections underneath, and then on to a bottom
> piece which transfers the weight to your floor using 4 or 5 feet. 2)
> There must be something added to keep your vertical pieces vertical. This
> can be steel cross-bracing (often seen with IKEA furniture) or simply a
> sheet of material across the back (ie: plywood) and sides. 3) The
> hardware you use (brackets screws etc) are primarily to hold the entire
> assembly together while the glue dries, and then later as an extra level
> of security to slow the collapse (if someone were to run into it).
>
> Returning to your question, you are constructing a sandwich with all the
> vertical sections being the same length, sandwiched between your top
> (shelf) and bottom (base) panels.
>
> If the 3 main verticals (splines) are the letter I, and you were standing
> in front of the tank stand looking down on it, their orientation is:
> I I I
>
> Your backboard runs the full height and width of the splines. At the
> front of the stand, you add 3 vertical pieces (the facing). At the
> corners, the facing starts at and covers the end grain of the outside
> splines. The center facing is centered on the middle spline.
>
>> 3) Let's assume I'm using 5/8" board. How long should the screws be?
>
> Do I look like a carpenter? Use a #8 flathead, 1-3/4" to 1-7/8" long.
> Robertson heads are the easiest to work with (a #2 I think), but I don't
> know if you have that available where you live.
>
>> 4) Just regular wood glue- looks like Elmer's, cept it's yellow?
>
> While any wood glue would probably do, there is wood glue for outdoor
> applications which is more water resistive. That is what I use. I think
> mine is yellow too, instead of white.
>
>> 5) I dont know how to clamp these pieces. I keep envisioning pressing
>> two parallel pieces of wood together, but don't 'see' how to hold two
>> piece together that are perpindicular.
>
> Pipe clamp, get two. You buy a section of pipe, threaded at one end. Then
> you buy a pipe clamp which is in two pieces. One piece screws to the pipe
> end and the other slides to the length of the pipe. Make sure the pipe is
> longer than the longest length you want to clamp.
>
> There are many other ways to clamps something, from strap-clamps used to
> secure furniture during moves, to simply weighing it down. If clamping
> the splines to your base, router the contact point, mark & drill, add
> glue, add screws, turn the assembly upside down and put a weight on top
> (bricks, paint cans etc). Be sure it will not dry crooked though ;~). You
> can add some smaller clamps to 4x4s at the spline base to hold them
> perpendicular.
>
>> 6) How wide should the shelf be for a 30" tank?
>
> I like to make my shelf 1" longer and 1" wider than the tank base. I
> don't like the tank on edge. By centering the tank, I have a 1/2" extra
> all the way around. Sometimes I add a piece of tall baseboard trim to
> that 1/2" which comes up and hides the black plastic trim of the tank.
>
> Underneath the shelf, the backboard, splines and facing do not reach the
> edges of the shelf. I usually have them about 2" inset all the way
> around. This means the tank edge does not line up exactly with the
> splines, but for small tanks and a proper thickness shelf, this is not a
> problem.
>
>>7) Just read MDF doesn't hold a screw well at all - true?
>
> I've already stuck my neck out far enough for you, that the carpenters and
> cabinet-makers will be smirking at my construction methods and
> descriptions, so there is no way I'm getting into a discussion on the
> properties of particle boards ;~). Use a 1/2" or 5/8" plywood if you're
> worried, or if you already have the MDF, plane the edges (so the glue
> soaks in), and use longer thinner screws (ie: 2-1/4" #8). Remember that
> the screws are mostly to hold it together while the glue dries (put a drop
> of glue in the screw hole and it will help hold everything together). The
> splines hold the tank up and the backboard and facing hold the splines up.
>
> It not like building a battleship ;~), 30g is under 300lbs of a static
> load. A single sheet of 5/8" plywood on edge could probably hold 300lbs.
> An aquarium stand just has to be flat and braced so it stays vertical,
> however my directions are no substitute for an existing familiarity with
> basic carpentry, so ymmv.
> --
> www.NetMax.tk
>
>> Thanxx yet again!
>> Bill
>
>

[soup]

humBill popped their head over the parapet saw what was going on and
said
> Hello Brian - I tried to email you at b_hellerATearthlink.net
> and it bounced back ampersand was used for AT =info in newgroup
> properties Bill

By ampersand do you mean & (which is ampersand)
or @ (which AFAIK does not have a name, but I always use
curlycue) ?

--
yours S

Nihil curo de ista tua stulta superstitione

[humBill]

Right right I used the wrong term. If those little grey 'stars' you see
when you get dizzy, has a name I'm sure the @ symbol also has a name. I
just don't know it to mis name it as well. I used the @ symbol. Now that
we have that out of the way, NEVERMIND:0 I did get some enough useful
information from everyone else I could proceed. Frankly now I am trying to
locate a table saw as I am absolutely sure I can't cut plywood or MDF with
my little hand saw and have the pieces come out, shall we say, uniform.
Thanks for your offer to help. It would be beyond me wildest expectations
to end up with something as nice as your stand looks - congrats.
Bill

"soup" > wrote in message
. uk...
> humBill popped their head over the parapet saw what was going on and
> said
>> Hello Brian - I tried to email you at b_hellerATearthlink.net
>> and it bounced back ampersand was used for AT =info in newgroup
>> properties Bill
>
> By ampersand do you mean & (which is ampersand)
> or @ (which AFAIK does not have a name, but I always use
> curlycue) ?
>
> --
> yours S
>
> Nihil curo de ista tua stulta superstitione
>
>

[Bill Stock]

"humBill" > wrote in message
m...
> Right right I used the wrong term. If those little grey 'stars' you see
> when you get dizzy, has a name I'm sure the @ symbol also has a name. I
> just don't know it to mis name it as well. I used the @ symbol. Now that
> we have that out of the way, NEVERMIND:0 I did get some enough useful
> information from everyone else I could proceed. Frankly now I am trying
> to locate a table saw as I am absolutely sure I can't cut plywood or MDF
> with my little hand saw and have the pieces come out, shall we say,
> uniform. Thanks for your offer to help. It would be beyond me wildest
> expectations to end up with something as nice as your stand looks -
> congrats.
> Bill
>
Bill,

You might find a circular saw and a saw guide more useful for cutting
panels. Most table saws don't have the Rip depth, unless you spend some
serious $$$$. Although a Table Saw id definitely a nice toy to have, if you
plan to do more woodworking.

[humBill]

Bill - Thanks yet again for helping the construction impaired:) No I am
doing this to stretch my limited funds. I definitely won't be buying toys,
that I would hardly ever use after this. A guide does sound like the way to
go. I misnamed my hand saw. I do have a small circular saw just no guide.
My reference to the finding a table saw was just that - if I could *find*
someone who has one and would let me use it.
Thanxx
Bill Brister

"Bill Stock" > wrote in message
...
>
> "humBill" > wrote in message
> m...
>> Right right I used the wrong term. If those little grey 'stars' you see
>> when you get dizzy, has a name I'm sure the @ symbol also has a name. I
>> just don't know it to mis name it as well. I used the @ symbol. Now
>> that we have that out of the way, NEVERMIND:0 I did get some enough
>> useful information from everyone else I could proceed. Frankly now I am
>> trying to locate a table saw as I am absolutely sure I can't cut plywood
>> or MDF with my little hand saw and have the pieces come out, shall we
>> say, uniform. Thanks for your offer to help. It would be beyond me
>> wildest expectations to end up with something as nice as your stand
>> looks - congrats.
>> Bill
>>
> Bill,
>
> You might find a circular saw and a saw guide more useful for cutting
> panels. Most table saws don't have the Rip depth, unless you spend some
> serious $$$$. Although a Table Saw id definitely a nice toy to have, if
> you plan to do more woodworking.
>
>
>
>
>

[Richard Blincoe]

I use a circular saw as well...

I use a length of 50x25mm timber (2x1")

Measure the distance between the edge of the saw's plate and the closest
edge of the blade tips - my saw it is 30mm (1 1/4" approx)

Mark out your cuts, taking the 30mm off the measurements and clamp the
length of timber to the marks, run the saw along against it....

Not hard, straight and accurate.....


"humBill" > wrote in message
m...
> Bill - Thanks yet again for helping the construction impaired:) No I am
> doing this to stretch my limited funds. I definitely won't be buying
toys,
> that I would hardly ever use after this. A guide does sound like the way
to
> go. I misnamed my hand saw. I do have a small circular saw just no guide.
> My reference to the finding a table saw was just that - if I could *find*
> someone who has one and would let me use it.
> Thanxx
> Bill Brister
>
> "Bill Stock" > wrote in message
> ...
> >
> > "humBill" > wrote in message
> > m...
> >> Right right I used the wrong term. If those little grey 'stars' you
see
> >> when you get dizzy, has a name I'm sure the @ symbol also has a name.
I
> >> just don't know it to mis name it as well. I used the @ symbol. Now
> >> that we have that out of the way, NEVERMIND:0 I did get some enough
> >> useful information from everyone else I could proceed. Frankly now I
am
> >> trying to locate a table saw as I am absolutely sure I can't cut
plywood
> >> or MDF with my little hand saw and have the pieces come out, shall we
> >> say, uniform. Thanks for your offer to help. It would be beyond me
> >> wildest expectations to end up with something as nice as your stand
> >> looks - congrats.
> >> Bill
> >>
> > Bill,
> >
> > You might find a circular saw and a saw guide more useful for cutting
> > panels. Most table saws don't have the Rip depth, unless you spend some
> > serious $$$$. Although a Table Saw id definitely a nice toy to have, if
> > you plan to do more woodworking.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>

[George Pontis]

In article >, says...
>
>
> You might find a circular saw and a saw guide more useful for cutting
> panels.
> ...

If you have a router you can take it to the next level. First, use a circular saw
or jigsaw to cut roughly to size. A jigsaw is less likely to splinter hardwood
veneer ply. Then make the final cut with a router, using your favorite edge guide.

A straight blade on the router will not splinter either side of the plywood and
you will end up with a a very smooth edge, much like a jointer. With any cutting
tool there can be slight chipout at the edge, so making the crosscut first is a
good strategy.

When cutting the long side of a 4x8 sheet, I find that it useful to brace the
center of the edge guide.

George

[humBill]

Wow - that's a great common sense idea. I might get this done yet:)
Thanxx
Bill

"Richard Blincoe" > wrote in message
...
>I use a circular saw as well...
>
> I use a length of 50x25mm timber (2x1")
>
> Measure the distance between the edge of the saw's plate and the closest
> edge of the blade tips - my saw it is 30mm (1 1/4" approx)
>
> Mark out your cuts, taking the 30mm off the measurements and clamp the
> length of timber to the marks, run the saw along against it....
>
> Not hard, straight and accurate.....
>
>
> "humBill" > wrote in message
> m...
>> Bill - Thanks yet again for helping the construction impaired:) No I am
>> doing this to stretch my limited funds. I definitely won't be buying
> toys,
>> that I would hardly ever use after this. A guide does sound like the way
> to
>> go. I misnamed my hand saw. I do have a small circular saw just no
>> guide.
>> My reference to the finding a table saw was just that - if I could *find*
>> someone who has one and would let me use it.
>> Thanxx
>> Bill Brister
>>
>> "Bill Stock" > wrote in message
>> ...
>> >
>> > "humBill" > wrote in message
>> > m...
>> >> Right right I used the wrong term. If those little grey 'stars' you
> see
>> >> when you get dizzy, has a name I'm sure the @ symbol also has a name.
> I
>> >> just don't know it to mis name it as well. I used the @ symbol. Now
>> >> that we have that out of the way, NEVERMIND:0 I did get some enough
>> >> useful information from everyone else I could proceed. Frankly now I
> am
>> >> trying to locate a table saw as I am absolutely sure I can't cut
> plywood
>> >> or MDF with my little hand saw and have the pieces come out, shall we
>> >> say, uniform. Thanks for your offer to help. It would be beyond me
>> >> wildest expectations to end up with something as nice as your stand
>> >> looks - congrats.
>> >> Bill
>> >>
>> > Bill,
>> >
>> > You might find a circular saw and a saw guide more useful for cutting
>> > panels. Most table saws don't have the Rip depth, unless you spend some
>> > serious $$$$. Although a Table Saw id definitely a nice toy to have, if
>> > you plan to do more woodworking.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>

[humBill]

Thanks for the finishing tip. I sold my totally unused router years ago in
a garage sale. This does sound like a good reason to watch for one again.
Bill

"George Pontis" > wrote in message
...
> In article >, says...
>>
>>
>> You might find a circular saw and a saw guide more useful for cutting
>> panels.
>> ...
>
> If you have a router you can take it to the next level. First, use a
> circular saw
> or jigsaw to cut roughly to size. A jigsaw is less likely to splinter
> hardwood
> veneer ply. Then make the final cut with a router, using your favorite
> edge guide.
>
> A straight blade on the router will not splinter either side of the
> plywood and
> you will end up with a a very smooth edge, much like a jointer. With any
> cutting
> tool there can be slight chipout at the edge, so making the crosscut first
> is a
> good strategy.
>
> When cutting the long side of a 4x8 sheet, I find that it useful to brace
> the
> center of the edge guide.
>
> George

[Rob]

Just an FYI: if you're absolutely certain about the measurements, many
lumber stores will cut the material for you very accurately with
industrial-grade saws - sometimes for a small fee if you need more than a
small number of pieces cut. Beats the alternative of spending big bucks on
tools if you don't use them much.

- Rob


"humBill" > wrote in message
m...
> Right right I used the wrong term. If those little grey 'stars' you see
> when you get dizzy, has a name I'm sure the @ symbol also has a name. I
> just don't know it to mis name it as well. I used the @ symbol. Now that
> we have that out of the way, NEVERMIND:0 I did get some enough useful
> information from everyone else I could proceed. Frankly now I am trying
> to locate a table saw as I am absolutely sure I can't cut plywood or MDF
> with my little hand saw and have the pieces come out, shall we say,
> uniform. Thanks for your offer to help. It would be beyond me wildest
> expectations to end up with something as nice as your stand looks -
> congrats.
> Bill
>
> "soup" > wrote in message
> . uk...
>> humBill popped their head over the parapet saw what was going on and
>> said
>>> Hello Brian - I tried to email you at b_hellerATearthlink.net
>>> and it bounced back ampersand was used for AT =info in newgroup
>>> properties Bill
>>
>> By ampersand do you mean & (which is ampersand)
>> or @ (which AFAIK does not have a name, but I always use
>> curlycue) ?
>>
>> --
>> yours S
>>
>> Nihil curo de ista tua stulta superstitione
>>
>>
>
>