Yellow Tank just wont eat?

[Rick]

a lrg yellow tank, 5-6 days in well established tank just wont eat
anything.
Water peramiters are fine-Fish swims normally- lets the cleaner shrimp
clean him but the fish just wont eat anything for 5-6 days. Tried
Brine-Form 2, nori-lettus-krill all of it. looks interested in eating
but wont go for the food. All water test are good. no fish are
bothering him?

[Peter Pan]

My Hippo was the same way, I tried everything but he just wouldn't eat.. it
only lasted a week or so... I found him at the bottom of my tank. I wish you
luck.
"Rick" > wrote in message
ups.com...
>a lrg yellow tank, 5-6 days in well established tank just wont eat
> anything.
> Water peramiters are fine-Fish swims normally- lets the cleaner shrimp
> clean him but the fish just wont eat anything for 5-6 days. Tried
> Brine-Form 2, nori-lettus-krill all of it. looks interested in eating
> but wont go for the food. All water test are good. no fish are
> bothering him?
>

[Matt Awbrey]

Try feeding it live foods such as live brine shrimp...also..keep the lights
off for a few days if you haven't done already.
"Rick" > wrote in message
ups.com...
> a lrg yellow tank, 5-6 days in well established tank just wont eat
> anything.
> Water peramiters are fine-Fish swims normally- lets the cleaner shrimp
> clean him but the fish just wont eat anything for 5-6 days. Tried
> Brine-Form 2, nori-lettus-krill all of it. looks interested in eating
> but wont go for the food. All water test are good. no fish are
> bothering him?
>

[Ray Martini]

I posted the same problem last week. My new yellow tang just wouldn't eat. I
tried hanging the seaweed, flakes, someone in the newgroup suggested Formula
Two cubes which I tried and he wasn't interested. Then last night I threw in
a bunch of frozen brine shrimp and off he went eating like a pig. Took about
5 days before he would eat. Hang in there and keep trying different foods
until you find one that he likes.



"Rick" > wrote in message
ups.com...
>a lrg yellow tank, 5-6 days in well established tank just wont eat
> anything.
> Water peramiters are fine-Fish swims normally- lets the cleaner shrimp
> clean him but the fish just wont eat anything for 5-6 days. Tried
> Brine-Form 2, nori-lettus-krill all of it. looks interested in eating
> but wont go for the food. All water test are good. no fish are
> bothering him?
>

[DANorgard]

Someone here recomended DULSE so I got some at the Health Food Store and the
Tang went bananas! It is a form of dried seaweed that he just can't get
enough of and its pretty cheap. I paid $2 for a Sandwich bag full. You
just break off a little piece, though, because when it re-hydrates it
quadruples it's size. Sure cured this finicky eater.
Dan

--
80g Reef tank, 1-1/2 yr old
30g Sump/Refugium w/PS
250w MH, 4-32w T-8s (quit laughing)
65lb LR, 60lb LS
100 Nassarius, 5 Astreas
1 Serpent Star
1 Yellow Tang
2 Hawaiian Dusters
Assorted Mushrooms
2 Obligatory False Percs (as required by the Grandparents Code)
1 Rose BTA
1 Peppermint Shrimp

"Rick" > wrote in message
ups.com...
a lrg yellow tank, 5-6 days in well established tank just wont eat
anything.
Water peramiters are fine-Fish swims normally- lets the cleaner shrimp
clean him but the fish just wont eat anything for 5-6 days. Tried
Brine-Form 2, nori-lettus-krill all of it. looks interested in eating
but wont go for the food. All water test are good. no fish are
bothering him?

[Rich R]

wow thats good news for the tang guys ,,, mussels do the trick for the meat
eaters,,,

--


www.reeftanksonline.com
www.nydiver.com
ONLINE meeting rooms



"DANorgard" > wrote in message
...
> Someone here recomended DULSE so I got some at the Health Food Store and
> the
> Tang went bananas! It is a form of dried seaweed that he just can't get
> enough of and its pretty cheap. I paid $2 for a Sandwich bag full. You
> just break off a little piece, though, because when it re-hydrates it
> quadruples it's size. Sure cured this finicky eater.
> Dan
>
> --
> 80g Reef tank, 1-1/2 yr old
> 30g Sump/Refugium w/PS
> 250w MH, 4-32w T-8s (quit laughing)
> 65lb LR, 60lb LS
> 100 Nassarius, 5 Astreas
> 1 Serpent Star
> 1 Yellow Tang
> 2 Hawaiian Dusters
> Assorted Mushrooms
> 2 Obligatory False Percs (as required by the Grandparents Code)
> 1 Rose BTA
> 1 Peppermint Shrimp
>
> "Rick" > wrote in message
> ups.com...
> a lrg yellow tank, 5-6 days in well established tank just wont eat
> anything.
> Water peramiters are fine-Fish swims normally- lets the cleaner shrimp
> clean him but the fish just wont eat anything for 5-6 days. Tried
> Brine-Form 2, nori-lettus-krill all of it. looks interested in eating
> but wont go for the food. All water test are good. no fish are
> bothering him?
>
>

[Ray Martini]

I had the same problem and posted it here. Hang in, takes about 5-7 days and
he'll be a hungry hungry hippo (or yellow)! Mine will eat anything that I
throw in there now.


"Rick" > wrote in message
ups.com...
>a lrg yellow tank, 5-6 days in well established tank just wont eat
> anything.
> Water peramiters are fine-Fish swims normally- lets the cleaner shrimp
> clean him but the fish just wont eat anything for 5-6 days. Tried
> Brine-Form 2, nori-lettus-krill all of it. looks interested in eating
> but wont go for the food. All water test are good. no fish are
> bothering him?
>

[Rich R]

I have found something that I think will add to the group,,With tangs for
some strange reason If you do not have a ground rod in the tank they seem to
do real bad. It seems that they have the most problems with stray voltages.
If your having problems keeping tangs try this , its weird but it worked for
me!

--


www.reeftanksonline.com
www.nydiver.com
ONLINE meeting rooms



"Ray Martini" > wrote in message
...
>I had the same problem and posted it here. Hang in, takes about 5-7 days
>and he'll be a hungry hungry hippo (or yellow)! Mine will eat anything that
>I throw in there now.
>
>
> "Rick" > wrote in message
> ups.com...
>>a lrg yellow tank, 5-6 days in well established tank just wont eat
>> anything.
>> Water peramiters are fine-Fish swims normally- lets the cleaner shrimp
>> clean him but the fish just wont eat anything for 5-6 days. Tried
>> Brine-Form 2, nori-lettus-krill all of it. looks interested in eating
>> but wont go for the food. All water test are good. no fish are
>> bothering him?
>>
>
>
>

[George]

"Rich R" > wrote in message
...
>I have found something that I think will add to the group,,With tangs for some
>strange reason If you do not have a ground rod in the tank they seem to do real
>bad. It seems that they have the most problems with stray voltages. If your
>having problems keeping tangs try this , its weird but it worked for me!
>

I thought I would throw this into the fray and let anyone who has a comment slam
it or praise it, as the need arises:

http://www.thekrib.com/Marine/grounding.html

I read with interest comments from
laurence-at-cco.caltech.edu (Dustin Lee Laurence)
regarding electrified aquariums. I also once read a magazine article on this
subject (FAMA Oct 1990, p62). As an electrical engineer, I think I'll throw
in my opinion on this subject.

Adding a ground to solve the problem of electricity leaking into the water is
not the right to go. It may save the owner from being shocked, but it will make
things worse for the tank inhabitants.

The problem is not the voltage level of the tank, but current flowing through
its occupants. Just as birds perched on a high voltage hydro wire don't notice
their bodies are 27,000 volts above ground potential, the same is true in an
aquarium. If one appliance is leaking electricity, but there are no paths to
ground (a glass or acrylic tank is a very good electrical insulator), then no
current will flow, and the fish would not know that they were not at ground
potential.

Thus everything will be fine until a grounded electrode is placed in
the tank. Now AC current will flow between the bad appliance and the ground.
This is how people are electrocuted in a bathtub when a radio or hair drier
plugged into the wall falls in. Current flows between the appliance
and the drain pipe (which is a good ground). If the victim's heart is in the
path of enough current flow, it will stop beating.

Since the conductivity of salt water is much higher than tap water, it would
probably be harder to electrocute marine fish. The fish will not enjoy
the current passing through its body though. Long term exposure to
even minute currents is probably not good.

On the flip side of this, the electrode grounding the tank will protect the
owner better, because most leaking current will flow through the electrode
(the least resistive path) and not the owner.

The solution to the electrified tank problem is to find out which components
are the culprits and repair or replace them.

I think it would be a good idea for owners to periodically check their tanks for
electrical leakage. The easiest way to do this is to put a voltmeter (AC)
between the water and ground (a good electrical ground - eg wall socket ground).
If you get a reading of more than a few volts, I would worry. **SEE NOTE BELOW
ON VOLTMETER**

I don't think it is necessary to set up an elaborate system to
protect you and your fish from electrical malfunctions. Hopefully it is rare
that a component leaks electricity into the tank. A shock from a fish tank
would not likely be fatal, but if it is strong enough, it will cause
an uncontrollable desire to remove one's arm from the tank as rapidly as
possible. This is where serious injury and damage to the tank / hood etc. could
occur.

If you want to make a shock-proof tank, hook all accessories that could possibly
cause a problem to GFI sockets (Ground Fault Interrupters). Then hook an
electrode from the water to one of the GFI ground terminals. If anything
begins to leak, the corresponding GFI will cut off power.

**A NOTE ON VOLTMETER READING OF TANK POTENTIAL**
When I first tried to measure the voltage of my tank I was surprised to get a
reading of 32 volts. By selectively turning off my equipment I determined
that every electrical piece of equipment near my tank would cause this
potential. It turns out this was because I was using a very high impedance
electronic voltmeter. The tank water acts as an antenna and picks up the 60 Hz
electric field transmitted by nearby appliances. Because the water is so well
insulated, the reading given by a high impedance voltmeter will be
extraordinarily high. The current that the tank can supply at this voltage is
EXTREMELY small. I then connected a 100k Ohm resistor between the tank and the
ground -- the voltage dropped very near zero. If the problem was a faulty
appliance, I would expect no change in the voltage reading with the addition of
a resistor that large.

SUMMARY
- If you are worried about both you and your fish being shocked by electrical
aquarium appliances, use GFI sockets and a ground electrode. There are a few
aquarium related products out there that will do this for you if you don't like
wiring.
- If you are just worried about yourself (or can't afford/be bothered with
GFI's) then ground the tank. You will know you have a problem when your fish go
nuts or die.
- If you haven't had a good shock in the last few years and can't be bothered
with this grounding stuff, you can probably get along fine without it. If you
ever get zapped though, don't come running to me!

-- Paul Daleman -P.S. I'm leaving my tank ungrounded for now...