Drip irrigation parts?

[Bill Stock]

I'm looking for some info on drip irrigation parts. I'll be setting up a
continuous water change system down the road (tank needs moved first), so
I'm doing a bit of research. I've seen that some people use a pressure
regulator valve and others use a "drip irrigation controller". I gather the
drip irrigation controller is more precise and more expensive. Perhaps
someone can give me the details of their setup and the pros and cons of the
two methods. Also where to buy parts, HD for a water pressure valve?

My plan is two use a water pressure regulator, water filter with GAC
cartridges, siphon overflow and a solenoid with float switch for backup.
BTW, should the pressure regulator go before or after the water filter? I
may also have to add an auto doser for dechlor, but I'll have to do some
testing first.

TIA

[NetMax]

"Bill Stock" > wrote in message
...
> I'm looking for some info on drip irrigation parts. I'll be setting up
> a continuous water change system down the road (tank needs moved
> first), so I'm doing a bit of research. I've seen that some people use
> a pressure regulator valve and others use a "drip irrigation
> controller". I gather the drip irrigation controller is more precise
> and more expensive. Perhaps someone can give me the details of their
> setup and the pros and cons of the two methods. Also where to buy
> parts, HD for a water pressure valve?
>
> My plan is two use a water pressure regulator, water filter with GAC
> cartridges, siphon overflow and a solenoid with float switch for
> backup. BTW, should the pressure regulator go before or after the water
> filter? I may also have to add an auto doser for dechlor, but I'll have
> to do some testing first.
>
> TIA


Use activated carbon to de-chlor. For chloramines, carbon still works,
but Centaur carbon would be the recommended choice (there are many carbon
grades available). You want about 2.5gpm or slower for carbon to
de-chlor. Position the carbon filter downstream of other filters as
carbon will exhaust itself on other contaminants as well.

Research automatic lawn sprinkler systems for a bevy of applicable
components (controllers, valves etc).
--
www.NetMax.tk

[Bill Stock]

"NetMax" > wrote in message
...
> "Bill Stock" > wrote in message
> ...
>> I'm looking for some info on drip irrigation parts. I'll be setting up a
>> continuous water change system down the road (tank needs moved first), so
>> I'm doing a bit of research. I've seen that some people use a pressure
>> regulator valve and others use a "drip irrigation controller". I gather
>> the drip irrigation controller is more precise and more expensive.
>> Perhaps someone can give me the details of their setup and the pros and
>> cons of the two methods. Also where to buy parts, HD for a water pressure
>> valve?
>>
>> My plan is two use a water pressure regulator, water filter with GAC
>> cartridges, siphon overflow and a solenoid with float switch for backup.
>> BTW, should the pressure regulator go before or after the water filter? I
>> may also have to add an auto doser for dechlor, but I'll have to do some
>> testing first.
>>
>> TIA
>
>
> Use activated carbon to de-chlor. For chloramines, carbon still works,
> but Centaur carbon would be the recommended choice (there are many carbon
> grades available). You want about 2.5gpm or slower for carbon to
> de-chlor. Position the carbon filter downstream of other filters as
> carbon will exhaust itself on other contaminants as well.

LOL, I only need about 10 gpd, so GAC s/b good. Although the GF do like
their fresh water.

> Research automatic lawn sprinkler systems for a bevy of applicable
> components (controllers, valves etc).

Thanks NetMax, helpful as always. Some of the irrigation stuff is quite
cheap compared to aquarium products.

> --
> www.NetMax.tk
>

[NetMax]

"Bill Stock" > wrote in message
...
>
> "NetMax" > wrote in message
> ...
>> "Bill Stock" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> I'm looking for some info on drip irrigation parts. I'll be setting
>>> up a continuous water change system down the road (tank needs moved
>>> first), so I'm doing a bit of research. I've seen that some people
>>> use a pressure regulator valve and others use a "drip irrigation
>>> controller". I gather the drip irrigation controller is more precise
>>> and more expensive. Perhaps someone can give me the details of their
>>> setup and the pros and cons of the two methods. Also where to buy
>>> parts, HD for a water pressure valve?
>>>
>>> My plan is two use a water pressure regulator, water filter with GAC
>>> cartridges, siphon overflow and a solenoid with float switch for
>>> backup. BTW, should the pressure regulator go before or after the
>>> water filter? I may also have to add an auto doser for dechlor, but
>>> I'll have to do some testing first.
>>>
>>> TIA
>>
>>
>> Use activated carbon to de-chlor. For chloramines, carbon still
>> works, but Centaur carbon would be the recommended choice (there are
>> many carbon grades available). You want about 2.5gpm or slower for
>> carbon to de-chlor. Position the carbon filter downstream of other
>> filters as carbon will exhaust itself on other contaminants as well.
>
> LOL, I only need about 10 gpd, so GAC s/b good. Although the GF do like
> their fresh water.

Oops on 2.5gpm. I was just copying notes from when I was last
researching this. At the time I had the water changer running 10 minutes
4 times a day on 4 banks (one at a time), and I was hitting 5gpm, so I
had to throttle the entire system down (or increase my carbon bed to 2
sq.ft.), but I was doing 27 tanks at a time. If you are doing less
tanks, or are using a low pressure continous drip, then that spec is not
applicable to you. For home use, I prefer the continuous drip with a
reserve capacity (before overflow) of about 24 to 36 hours. As long as
I'm home once a day, I'll catch a non-critical failure (usually a clog in
the siphons). Of course you can install overflow cut-offs, but it's nice
to have system redundancy.

Also on the GAC, get a chlorine tester. There is no accurate method of
predicting the usable life expectancy of carbon as the
chlorine/chloramine and other contaminents can vary significantly, even
by season in the same location. We generally counted on 12 months of
life, but chlorine tests showed we got more than that (of course this
varies by your water, type of carbon and cc's of carbon used).
--
www.NetMax.tk


>> Research automatic lawn sprinkler systems for a bevy of applicable
>> components (controllers, valves etc).
>
> Thanks NetMax, helpful as always. Some of the irrigation stuff is quite
> cheap compared to aquarium products.
>
>> --
>> www.NetMax.tk
>>
>
>

[Bill Stock]

"NetMax" > wrote in message
...
> "Bill Stock" > wrote in message
> ...
>>
>> "NetMax" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> "Bill Stock" > wrote in message
>>> ...
>>>> I'm looking for some info on drip irrigation parts. I'll be setting up
>>>> a continuous water change system down the road (tank needs moved
>>>> first), so I'm doing a bit of research. I've seen that some people use
>>>> a pressure regulator valve and others use a "drip irrigation
>>>> controller". I gather the drip irrigation controller is more precise
>>>> and more expensive. Perhaps someone can give me the details of their
>>>> setup and the pros and cons of the two methods. Also where to buy
>>>> parts, HD for a water pressure valve?
>>>>
>>>> My plan is two use a water pressure regulator, water filter with GAC
>>>> cartridges, siphon overflow and a solenoid with float switch for
>>>> backup. BTW, should the pressure regulator go before or after the water
>>>> filter? I may also have to add an auto doser for dechlor, but I'll have
>>>> to do some testing first.
>>>>
>>>> TIA
>>>
>>>
>>> Use activated carbon to de-chlor. For chloramines, carbon still works,
>>> but Centaur carbon would be the recommended choice (there are many
>>> carbon grades available). You want about 2.5gpm or slower for carbon to
>>> de-chlor. Position the carbon filter downstream of other filters as
>>> carbon will exhaust itself on other contaminants as well.
>>
>> LOL, I only need about 10 gpd, so GAC s/b good. Although the GF do like
>> their fresh water.
>
> Oops on 2.5gpm. I was just copying notes from when I was last researching
> this. At the time I had the water changer running 10 minutes 4 times a
> day on 4 banks (one at a time), and I was hitting 5gpm, so I had to
> throttle the entire system down (or increase my carbon bed to 2 sq.ft.),
> but I was doing 27 tanks at a time. If you are doing less tanks, or are
> using a low pressure continous drip, then that spec is not applicable to
> you. For home use, I prefer the continuous drip with a reserve capacity
> (before overflow) of about 24 to 36 hours. As long as I'm home once a
> day, I'll catch a non-critical failure (usually a clog in the siphons).
> Of course you can install overflow cut-offs, but it's nice to have system
> redundancy.

I'm starting to wonder if a timer would not be a better idea. I did not see
any reliable/cheap slow drip systems. Most of the plastic valves I saw said
"NOT FOR CONTINUOUS USE". The few brass valves that I saw were still at
least 3gpm and varied widely depending on the pressure drop. (Although I
suspect I'm missing something here, as I doubt I get 3gpm at full pressure)
The other factor is solenoid life, most solenoids for irrigation are NC,
which means I would need to apply power continuously for a constant drip
system. I doubt the cheap solenoids are rated for continuous duty.

> Also on the GAC, get a chlorine tester. There is no accurate method of
> predicting the usable life expectancy of carbon as the chlorine/chloramine
> and other contaminents can vary significantly, even by season in the same
> location. We generally counted on 12 months of life, but chlorine tests
> showed we got more than that (of course this varies by your water, type of
> carbon and cc's of carbon used).
> --
> www.NetMax.tk
>
>
>>> Research automatic lawn sprinkler systems for a bevy of applicable
>>> components (controllers, valves etc).
>>
>> Thanks NetMax, helpful as always. Some of the irrigation stuff is quite
>> cheap compared to aquarium products.
>>
>>> --
>>> www.NetMax.tk
>>>
>>
>>
>
>

[NetMax]

"Bill Stock" > wrote in message
...
>
> "NetMax" > wrote in message
> ...
>> "Bill Stock" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>>
>>> "NetMax" > wrote in message
>>> ...
>>>> "Bill Stock" > wrote in message
>>>> ...
>>>>> I'm looking for some info on drip irrigation parts. I'll be setting
>>>>> up a continuous water change system down the road (tank needs moved
>>>>> first), so I'm doing a bit of research. I've seen that some people
>>>>> use a pressure regulator valve and others use a "drip irrigation
>>>>> controller". I gather the drip irrigation controller is more
>>>>> precise and more expensive. Perhaps someone can give me the details
>>>>> of their setup and the pros and cons of the two methods. Also where
>>>>> to buy parts, HD for a water pressure valve?
>>>>>
>>>>> My plan is two use a water pressure regulator, water filter with
>>>>> GAC cartridges, siphon overflow and a solenoid with float switch
>>>>> for backup. BTW, should the pressure regulator go before or after
>>>>> the water filter? I may also have to add an auto doser for dechlor,
>>>>> but I'll have to do some testing first.
>>>>>
>>>>> TIA
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Use activated carbon to de-chlor. For chloramines, carbon still
>>>> works, but Centaur carbon would be the recommended choice (there are
>>>> many carbon grades available). You want about 2.5gpm or slower for
>>>> carbon to de-chlor. Position the carbon filter downstream of other
>>>> filters as carbon will exhaust itself on other contaminants as well.
>>>
>>> LOL, I only need about 10 gpd, so GAC s/b good. Although the GF do
>>> like their fresh water.
>>
>> Oops on 2.5gpm. I was just copying notes from when I was last
>> researching this. At the time I had the water changer running 10
>> minutes 4 times a day on 4 banks (one at a time), and I was hitting
>> 5gpm, so I had to throttle the entire system down (or increase my
>> carbon bed to 2 sq.ft.), but I was doing 27 tanks at a time. If you
>> are doing less tanks, or are using a low pressure continous drip, then
>> that spec is not applicable to you. For home use, I prefer the
>> continuous drip with a reserve capacity (before overflow) of about 24
>> to 36 hours. As long as I'm home once a day, I'll catch a
>> non-critical failure (usually a clog in the siphons). Of course you
>> can install overflow cut-offs, but it's nice to have system
>> redundancy.
>
> I'm starting to wonder if a timer would not be a better idea. I did not
> see any reliable/cheap slow drip systems. Most of the plastic valves I
> saw said "NOT FOR CONTINUOUS USE". The few brass valves that I saw were
> still at least 3gpm and varied widely depending on the pressure drop.
> (Although I suspect I'm missing something here, as I doubt I get 3gpm
> at full pressure) The other factor is solenoid life, most solenoids for
> irrigation are NC, which means I would need to apply power continuously
> for a constant drip system. I doubt the cheap solenoids are rated for
> continuous duty.

A factor which might influence your choice is the hardness of your water.
Hard well water is hard on CDS (continuous drip systems) as there is
usually a very small orifice somewhere which collects scale. However CDS
are very fault tolerant because the feed rate is so low. If you are
doing 4 or 5 drops a minute, a 20 or 30% reduction would not
significantly effect the operation. Just keep it visible, so that you
can manually correct it as required. Think about a small waterfall over
your tank feeding various terrestrial plants.

Timed systems i) have the benefit of your probable presence in case
something goes wrong, ii) are less tolerant of faults (as you are using
higher flow rates), and iii) there is a bit more planning on holding
capacity and hose diameters to keep everything downstream of the pressure
valve at a much lower resistance.

You do need to use NC solenoids, but depending on type, they most
probably will not wear being held in this position. Some are held in the
open position through a magnetic field so you just consume a bit of
electricity.

Another system is a manual-set automatic water changer. As desired, go
to the system and press ON for the various stages (or have them all
programmed, or leave it all manual). An example would be to i) backwash
your canister filter to the drain (lowering your main tank water level),
ii) pump water into your main from a holding tank (or gravity feed from a
tank whose volume = your water change quantity), iii) refill your holding
tank from your source water. If automated and anything goes astray, have
shut-off valves handy.

Hope there were some useful ideas in there for you :o)

>> Also on the GAC, get a chlorine tester. There is no accurate method
>> of predicting the usable life expectancy of carbon as the
>> chlorine/chloramine and other contaminents can vary significantly,
>> even by season in the same location. We generally counted on 12
>> months of life, but chlorine tests showed we got more than that (of
>> course this varies by your water, type of carbon and cc's of carbon
>> used).
>> --
>> www.NetMax.tk
>>
>>
>>>> Research automatic lawn sprinkler systems for a bevy of applicable
>>>> components (controllers, valves etc).
>>>
>>> Thanks NetMax, helpful as always. Some of the irrigation stuff is
>>> quite cheap compared to aquarium products.
>>>
>>>> --
>>>> www.NetMax.tk
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>