I am going to have to use chemicals....

[[email protected]]

I tested my bedroom (15 gallon) tank and the ammonia is near 0,
nitrites are near 0, Nitrates are a little high but not alarmingly so,
ph is around 5 (I know - this is why I need to use chemicals), general
hardness is 8 dh, carbonate hardness (ie alkalinity) is very soft (near
0). I did a partial water change (approximately 1/3) and will do so
every day until I get that ph up. I am going to use proper ph or
something better if it exists for now on so that the ph is at 7.5 (good
for these fish) and the carbonate hardness (alkalinity) is a lot higher
to stabilize the ph. The 55 gallon in the other room has perfect
ratings. I know that technically these water tests vary and are only
road signs but this road sign is obvious about the ph. Is it a ph
crash? I think it is. The 15 gallon I have had for over a year and
15-20% of the water was changed every 2 weeks but no gravel cleaning
had been done on it for a long time so I think the alkalinity dropped
and then recently the ph dropped to an alarming 5. I am glad to have
bought this cheap master kit and the ph explains why the fish only
became active (ie not hanging around the surface) soon after water
changes.

In summary - I think the only way I can prevent low ph in this 15
gallon tank is to use a ph buffer and regulator thanks to my soft
faucet water and low alkalinity water. Of course I will do a gravel
cleaning every time I change water. Any recommendations (I know I need
to up the ph by no more than .5 a day and to use a buffer)? The only
chemicals I have ever used in my tanks up to now is aquasafe to get rid
of chlorine and chloramines and deactivate heavy metals and add some
slime coat (all of these with just that one water conditioner so far).
Not even charcoal, just gravel cleaning, water changing, mechanical
filter cleaning, biowheel cleaning (spray bar), and the usual (ie
replacing a light bulb once or twice a year, cleaning airstones, etc.).

Thanks, later!

[anemone]

I would do waterchanges first to see if it will even out your ph...it is a
better way to go
when doing the water changes, add a product like ph proper 7.0 (or whatever
ph you are willing to target) gradually to the water over several days
> wrote in message
ups.com...
>I tested my bedroom (15 gallon) tank and the ammonia is near 0,
> nitrites are near 0, Nitrates are a little high but not alarmingly so,
> ph is around 5 (I know - this is why I need to use chemicals), general
> hardness is 8 dh, carbonate hardness (ie alkalinity) is very soft (near
> 0). I did a partial water change (approximately 1/3) and will do so
> every day until I get that ph up. I am going to use proper ph or
> something better if it exists for now on so that the ph is at 7.5 (good
> for these fish) and the carbonate hardness (alkalinity) is a lot higher
> to stabilize the ph. The 55 gallon in the other room has perfect
> ratings. I know that technically these water tests vary and are only
> road signs but this road sign is obvious about the ph. Is it a ph
> crash? I think it is. The 15 gallon I have had for over a year and
> 15-20% of the water was changed every 2 weeks but no gravel cleaning
> had been done on it for a long time so I think the alkalinity dropped
> and then recently the ph dropped to an alarming 5. I am glad to have
> bought this cheap master kit and the ph explains why the fish only
> became active (ie not hanging around the surface) soon after water
> changes.
>
> In summary - I think the only way I can prevent low ph in this 15
> gallon tank is to use a ph buffer and regulator thanks to my soft
> faucet water and low alkalinity water. Of course I will do a gravel
> cleaning every time I change water. Any recommendations (I know I need
> to up the ph by no more than .5 a day and to use a buffer)? The only
> chemicals I have ever used in my tanks up to now is aquasafe to get rid
> of chlorine and chloramines and deactivate heavy metals and add some
> slime coat (all of these with just that one water conditioner so far).
> Not even charcoal, just gravel cleaning, water changing, mechanical
> filter cleaning, biowheel cleaning (spray bar), and the usual (ie
> replacing a light bulb once or twice a year, cleaning airstones, etc.).
>
> Thanks, later!
>

[Elaine T]

wrote:
> I tested my bedroom (15 gallon) tank and the ammonia is near 0,
> nitrites are near 0, Nitrates are a little high but not alarmingly so,
> ph is around 5 (I know - this is why I need to use chemicals), general
> hardness is 8 dh, carbonate hardness (ie alkalinity) is very soft (near
> 0). I did a partial water change (approximately 1/3) and will do so
> every day until I get that ph up. I am going to use proper ph or
> something better if it exists for now on so that the ph is at 7.5 (good
> for these fish) and the carbonate hardness (alkalinity) is a lot higher
> to stabilize the ph. The 55 gallon in the other room has perfect
> ratings. I know that technically these water tests vary and are only
> road signs but this road sign is obvious about the ph. Is it a ph
> crash? I think it is. The 15 gallon I have had for over a year and
> 15-20% of the water was changed every 2 weeks but no gravel cleaning
> had been done on it for a long time so I think the alkalinity dropped
> and then recently the ph dropped to an alarming 5. I am glad to have
> bought this cheap master kit and the ph explains why the fish only
> became active (ie not hanging around the surface) soon after water
> changes.
>
> In summary - I think the only way I can prevent low ph in this 15
> gallon tank is to use a ph buffer and regulator thanks to my soft
> faucet water and low alkalinity water. Of course I will do a gravel
> cleaning every time I change water. Any recommendations (I know I need
> to up the ph by no more than .5 a day and to use a buffer)? The only
> chemicals I have ever used in my tanks up to now is aquasafe to get rid
> of chlorine and chloramines and deactivate heavy metals and add some
> slime coat (all of these with just that one water conditioner so far).
> Not even charcoal, just gravel cleaning, water changing, mechanical
> filter cleaning, biowheel cleaning (spray bar), and the usual (ie
> replacing a light bulb once or twice a year, cleaning airstones, etc.).
>
> Thanks, later!
>
Plain, old-fashioned baking soda. It will raise pH, KH, and add
buffering. Start with 1/4 tsp in your size tank. If you have higher pH
fish that appreciate hard water too, put some coral or seashells in the
tank to hold the pH and water hardness at a higher level.

--
__ Elaine T __
><__'> http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><

[Dick]

On 18 Mar 2005 00:55:01 -0800, wrote:

>I tested my bedroom (15 gallon) tank and the ammonia is near 0,
>nitrites are near 0, Nitrates are a little high but not alarmingly so,
>ph is around 5 (I know - this is why I need to use chemicals), general
>hardness is 8 dh, carbonate hardness (ie alkalinity) is very soft (near
>0). I did a partial water change (approximately 1/3) and will do so
>every day until I get that ph up. I am going to use proper ph or
>something better if it exists for now on so that the ph is at 7.5 (good
>for these fish) and the carbonate hardness (alkalinity) is a lot higher
>to stabilize the ph. The 55 gallon in the other room has perfect
>ratings. I know that technically these water tests vary and are only
>road signs but this road sign is obvious about the ph. Is it a ph
>crash? I think it is. The 15 gallon I have had for over a year and
>15-20% of the water was changed every 2 weeks but no gravel cleaning
>had been done on it for a long time so I think the alkalinity dropped
>and then recently the ph dropped to an alarming 5. I am glad to have
>bought this cheap master kit and the ph explains why the fish only
>became active (ie not hanging around the surface) soon after water
>changes.
>
>In summary - I think the only way I can prevent low ph in this 15
>gallon tank is to use a ph buffer and regulator thanks to my soft
>faucet water and low alkalinity water. Of course I will do a gravel
>cleaning every time I change water. Any recommendations (I know I need
>to up the ph by no more than .5 a day and to use a buffer)? The only
>chemicals I have ever used in my tanks up to now is aquasafe to get rid
>of chlorine and chloramines and deactivate heavy metals and add some
>slime coat (all of these with just that one water conditioner so far).
>Not even charcoal, just gravel cleaning, water changing, mechanical
>filter cleaning, biowheel cleaning (spray bar), and the usual (ie
>replacing a light bulb once or twice a year, cleaning airstones, etc.).
>
>Thanks, later!

First of all I would not trust the reading. I think you would be
writing about dead fish if the 15 gallon tank pH was really 5.

I have 5 tanks ranging from 10g to 75g. I change 20% twice weekly.
The few times I have tested the tanks they all have pH of 7.8, the
same as the tap water. I leave the gravel alone unless there is
visible material.

I find it significant that the 2 tanks have different pH. Probably
more frequent water changes would bring them together. I would also
look at what minerals you have in the 15 gallon tank, that is
ornamental rocks or other materials. Something is different in the 2
tanks if the reading is correct.

I would also discontinue the aquasafe on the chance it is interacting
with something in the 15 gallon tank. In two years, I have not found
the chlorine to be a problem in the water changes. I killed some fish
before I could correct the pH which I had pushed way acid. That was
the last time I played with chemicals. I can't trust myself. Of
course, your local supply may require it, but do consider going
without unless your local conditions require. If you use a Python
Gravel Vac, not conditioning simplifies the procedure.

dick

[default]

How 'bout drop a clam shell in there and monitor the pH and KH daily
for about a week. I betcha you'll see both rise a bit, and then
stabilize. I run crushed coral/seashells in my 55g with C02 injection
to add additional buffer.

steve

[Ray Martini]

Use Arm and Hammer Baking Soda. Slowly of course but it does the same thing
as pricey chemicals you buy at the LFS.


> wrote in message
ups.com...
>I tested my bedroom (15 gallon) tank and the ammonia is near 0,
> nitrites are near 0, Nitrates are a little high but not alarmingly so,
> ph is around 5 (I know - this is why I need to use chemicals), general
> hardness is 8 dh, carbonate hardness (ie alkalinity) is very soft (near
> 0). I did a partial water change (approximately 1/3) and will do so
> every day until I get that ph up. I am going to use proper ph or
> something better if it exists for now on so that the ph is at 7.5 (good
> for these fish) and the carbonate hardness (alkalinity) is a lot higher
> to stabilize the ph. The 55 gallon in the other room has perfect
> ratings. I know that technically these water tests vary and are only
> road signs but this road sign is obvious about the ph. Is it a ph
> crash? I think it is. The 15 gallon I have had for over a year and
> 15-20% of the water was changed every 2 weeks but no gravel cleaning
> had been done on it for a long time so I think the alkalinity dropped
> and then recently the ph dropped to an alarming 5. I am glad to have
> bought this cheap master kit and the ph explains why the fish only
> became active (ie not hanging around the surface) soon after water
> changes.
>
> In summary - I think the only way I can prevent low ph in this 15
> gallon tank is to use a ph buffer and regulator thanks to my soft
> faucet water and low alkalinity water. Of course I will do a gravel
> cleaning every time I change water. Any recommendations (I know I need
> to up the ph by no more than .5 a day and to use a buffer)? The only
> chemicals I have ever used in my tanks up to now is aquasafe to get rid
> of chlorine and chloramines and deactivate heavy metals and add some
> slime coat (all of these with just that one water conditioner so far).
> Not even charcoal, just gravel cleaning, water changing, mechanical
> filter cleaning, biowheel cleaning (spray bar), and the usual (ie
> replacing a light bulb once or twice a year, cleaning airstones, etc.).
>
> Thanks, later!
>

[Ray Martini]

Sorry Elaine for being repetitive, I shoud have finished the thread before
posting on the A&H!

Dick has a great point. I never even check pH in my freshwater tanks
anymore. The fish adjusted fine to whatever the tap water is. 99% of the
fish we keep as hobbyists will adjust to pH and thrive just fine. Plus it
saved me a ton of stress worrying about it. The best success I've had with
fish tanks is when I leave them alone. A chemist I am not nor a plumber for
that matter (still have a small leak in the plumbing of my UV Sterilizer.
LOL


"Dick" > wrote in message
...
> On 18 Mar 2005 00:55:01 -0800, wrote:
>
>>I tested my bedroom (15 gallon) tank and the ammonia is near 0,
>>nitrites are near 0, Nitrates are a little high but not alarmingly so,
>>ph is around 5 (I know - this is why I need to use chemicals), general
>>hardness is 8 dh, carbonate hardness (ie alkalinity) is very soft (near
>>0). I did a partial water change (approximately 1/3) and will do so
>>every day until I get that ph up. I am going to use proper ph or
>>something better if it exists for now on so that the ph is at 7.5 (good
>>for these fish) and the carbonate hardness (alkalinity) is a lot higher
>>to stabilize the ph. The 55 gallon in the other room has perfect
>>ratings. I know that technically these water tests vary and are only
>>road signs but this road sign is obvious about the ph. Is it a ph
>>crash? I think it is. The 15 gallon I have had for over a year and
>>15-20% of the water was changed every 2 weeks but no gravel cleaning
>>had been done on it for a long time so I think the alkalinity dropped
>>and then recently the ph dropped to an alarming 5. I am glad to have
>>bought this cheap master kit and the ph explains why the fish only
>>became active (ie not hanging around the surface) soon after water
>>changes.
>>
>>In summary - I think the only way I can prevent low ph in this 15
>>gallon tank is to use a ph buffer and regulator thanks to my soft
>>faucet water and low alkalinity water. Of course I will do a gravel
>>cleaning every time I change water. Any recommendations (I know I need
>>to up the ph by no more than .5 a day and to use a buffer)? The only
>>chemicals I have ever used in my tanks up to now is aquasafe to get rid
>>of chlorine and chloramines and deactivate heavy metals and add some
>>slime coat (all of these with just that one water conditioner so far).
>>Not even charcoal, just gravel cleaning, water changing, mechanical
>>filter cleaning, biowheel cleaning (spray bar), and the usual (ie
>>replacing a light bulb once or twice a year, cleaning airstones, etc.).
>>
>>Thanks, later!
>
> First of all I would not trust the reading. I think you would be
> writing about dead fish if the 15 gallon tank pH was really 5.
>
> I have 5 tanks ranging from 10g to 75g. I change 20% twice weekly.
> The few times I have tested the tanks they all have pH of 7.8, the
> same as the tap water. I leave the gravel alone unless there is
> visible material.
>
> I find it significant that the 2 tanks have different pH. Probably
> more frequent water changes would bring them together. I would also
> look at what minerals you have in the 15 gallon tank, that is
> ornamental rocks or other materials. Something is different in the 2
> tanks if the reading is correct.
>
> I would also discontinue the aquasafe on the chance it is interacting
> with something in the 15 gallon tank. In two years, I have not found
> the chlorine to be a problem in the water changes. I killed some fish
> before I could correct the pH which I had pushed way acid. That was
> the last time I played with chemicals. I can't trust myself. Of
> course, your local supply may require it, but do consider going
> without unless your local conditions require. If you use a Python
> Gravel Vac, not conditioning simplifies the procedure.
>
> dick

[Elaine T]

Ray Martini wrote:
> Sorry Elaine for being repetitive, I shoud have finished the thread before
> posting on the A&H!
>
Hey - I love it when someone agrees!

> Dick has a great point. I never even check pH in my freshwater tanks
> anymore. The fish adjusted fine to whatever the tap water is. 99% of the
> fish we keep as hobbyists will adjust to pH and thrive just fine. Plus it
> saved me a ton of stress worrying about it. The best success I've had with
> fish tanks is when I leave them alone. A chemist I am not nor a plumber for
> that matter (still have a small leak in the plumbing of my UV Sterilizer.
> LOL
>
Yes, but pH 5 (if the test kit is correct) is pretty unstable and makes
water changes hard on the fish. Remember the philosophy is to be stable
close to the tapwater, not far from it. Any ammonia in that tank, and
a big water change will kill stuff. I still think baking soda until the
tank is closer to tapwater and more frequent water changes then take
care of the chemistry.

Now Dick's other question is excellent. Why are the tanks so different?
I didn't think of that when I read the post. My guess is that 15
gallon tanks are smaller and less stable and the 55 would eventually go
to the same chemistry as well. I've also had the experience of not
needing dechlorinator with chlorinated water and small water changes.
However, it is definately necessary to detoxify chloramines if those are
in the water supply.

>
> "Dick" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>On 18 Mar 2005 00:55:01 -0800, wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I tested my bedroom (15 gallon) tank and the ammonia is near 0,
>>>nitrites are near 0, Nitrates are a little high but not alarmingly so,
>>>ph is around 5 (I know - this is why I need to use chemicals), general
>>>hardness is 8 dh, carbonate hardness (ie alkalinity) is very soft (near
>>>0). I did a partial water change (approximately 1/3) and will do so
>>>every day until I get that ph up. I am going to use proper ph or
>>>something better if it exists for now on so that the ph is at 7.5 (good
>>>for these fish) and the carbonate hardness (alkalinity) is a lot higher
>>>to stabilize the ph. The 55 gallon in the other room has perfect
>>>ratings. I know that technically these water tests vary and are only
>>>road signs but this road sign is obvious about the ph. Is it a ph
>>>crash? I think it is. The 15 gallon I have had for over a year and
>>>15-20% of the water was changed every 2 weeks but no gravel cleaning
>>>had been done on it for a long time so I think the alkalinity dropped
>>>and then recently the ph dropped to an alarming 5. I am glad to have
>>>bought this cheap master kit and the ph explains why the fish only
>>>became active (ie not hanging around the surface) soon after water
>>>changes.
>>>
>>>In summary - I think the only way I can prevent low ph in this 15
>>>gallon tank is to use a ph buffer and regulator thanks to my soft
>>>faucet water and low alkalinity water. Of course I will do a gravel
>>>cleaning every time I change water. Any recommendations (I know I need
>>>to up the ph by no more than .5 a day and to use a buffer)? The only
>>>chemicals I have ever used in my tanks up to now is aquasafe to get rid
>>>of chlorine and chloramines and deactivate heavy metals and add some
>>>slime coat (all of these with just that one water conditioner so far).
>>>Not even charcoal, just gravel cleaning, water changing, mechanical
>>>filter cleaning, biowheel cleaning (spray bar), and the usual (ie
>>>replacing a light bulb once or twice a year, cleaning airstones, etc.).
>>>
>>>Thanks, later!
>>
>>First of all I would not trust the reading. I think you would be
>>writing about dead fish if the 15 gallon tank pH was really 5.
>>
>>I have 5 tanks ranging from 10g to 75g. I change 20% twice weekly.
>>The few times I have tested the tanks they all have pH of 7.8, the
>>same as the tap water. I leave the gravel alone unless there is
>>visible material.
>>
>>I find it significant that the 2 tanks have different pH. Probably
>>more frequent water changes would bring them together. I would also
>>look at what minerals you have in the 15 gallon tank, that is
>>ornamental rocks or other materials. Something is different in the 2
>>tanks if the reading is correct.
>>
>>I would also discontinue the aquasafe on the chance it is interacting
>>with something in the 15 gallon tank. In two years, I have not found
>>the chlorine to be a problem in the water changes. I killed some fish
>>before I could correct the pH which I had pushed way acid. That was
>>the last time I played with chemicals. I can't trust myself. Of
>>course, your local supply may require it, but do consider going
>>without unless your local conditions require. If you use a Python
>>Gravel Vac, not conditioning simplifies the procedure.
>>
>>dick
>
>
>


--
__ Elaine T __
><__'> http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><

[Ozdude]

"Elaine T" > wrote in message
om...
> Now Dick's other question is excellent. Why are the tanks so different? I
> didn't think of that when I read the post. My guess is that 15 gallon
> tanks are smaller and less stable and the 55 would eventually go to the
> same chemistry as well. I've also had the experience of not needing
> dechlorinator with chlorinated water and small water changes. However, it
> is definately necessary to detoxify chloramines if those are in the water
> supply.

I've just noticed in the last fortnight how unstable my 50L tank can be in
comparison to the 200L tank.

Not just chemically but temperature as well. It's quite a bit more work
keeping the 50L in shape because things happen so quickly.

The heater comes on more often too in the small tank, so all the advice to
beginners about starting with the biggest tank you can afford, is good imo -
it makes sense, so you can make sense of what's going on.

In a big tank, you have more time to correct if something goes
off-the-rails - instead of a couple of hours, you have at least 12 or more
to get to it in a big tank. The problem with big tanks though is you need to
medicate the whole tank (as I have just done) it takes a lot more of
what-ever to do it in comparison to a smaller volume of water.

Even so, I err on the side of recommending big tanks to start with just
because it gives you mental time to ponder and the fish have time to adjust
gradually.

My 0.02 ;)

Oz

--
My Aquatic web Blog is at http://members.optusnet.com.au/ivan.smith

[anemone]

i agree....i noticed a big difference when changing from a 200L to a
750L....
"Ozdude" > wrote in message
u...
>
> "Elaine T" > wrote in message
> om...
>> Now Dick's other question is excellent. Why are the tanks so different?
>> I didn't think of that when I read the post. My guess is that 15 gallon
>> tanks are smaller and less stable and the 55 would eventually go to the
>> same chemistry as well. I've also had the experience of not needing
>> dechlorinator with chlorinated water and small water changes. However, it
>> is definately necessary to detoxify chloramines if those are in the water
>> supply.
>
> I've just noticed in the last fortnight how unstable my 50L tank can be in
> comparison to the 200L tank.
>
> Not just chemically but temperature as well. It's quite a bit more work
> keeping the 50L in shape because things happen so quickly.
>
> The heater comes on more often too in the small tank, so all the advice to
> beginners about starting with the biggest tank you can afford, is good
> imo - it makes sense, so you can make sense of what's going on.
>
> In a big tank, you have more time to correct if something goes
> off-the-rails - instead of a couple of hours, you have at least 12 or more
> to get to it in a big tank. The problem with big tanks though is you need
> to medicate the whole tank (as I have just done) it takes a lot more of
> what-ever to do it in comparison to a smaller volume of water.
>
> Even so, I err on the side of recommending big tanks to start with just
> because it gives you mental time to ponder and the fish have time to
> adjust gradually.
>
> My 0.02 ;)
>
> Oz
>
> --
> My Aquatic web Blog is at http://members.optusnet.com.au/ivan.smith
>
>

[[email protected]]

Your replies are great, all. I will try the baking soda (not baking
powder) route. 2 key differences between the big tank and the little
tank are - the big (7.5 ph) tank has a couple of seashells in it and
the plants (java fern) are doing great. I will also try seashells.

2 questions - 1. will the baking soda add salt to my tanks, and if so
do I need to be careful about it? 2. will the seashells add salt to my
tanks?

I will retest my 15 gallon tank tomorrow. Sorry, that was actually 3
questions above.

I might just get a hydrometer (probably the marineland one) and add the
baking soda plus shells and make sure the water doesn't get too salty.

Anyone have any idea about me possibly attaching a garden hose to the
kitchen water faucet and use a ball valve on the end to fill tanks
with? I like the idea because it doesn't waste water like the python
(the python appears to always let some water escape to regulate the
water pressure so that the python hose doesn't rupture).

I happened to be in a walmart earlier today and man - they had garbage
for sale for aquariums there! Off brand generic gravel vac's too small
for a 10 gallon tank, only non-submersible heaters, no ph up (wouldn't
have bought it anyway though, 14 years ago I tried it and it seemed to
do nothing to raise the ph), nothing but garbage. Anyone want to get
good products? Try becoming a catalog hound and pick your products with
easy care like I do. One of my sources has pythons for sale under the
"lee's" brand name and lee's calls it the ultimate gravel vac.

I plan on continuing the gravel vacuuming because it makes a lot of
sense and if I just left the detritus there it would cause old tank
syndrome but I will also continue to use aquasafe as I don't trust my
water source yet, I think chloramines would get through without it.

Later all, and thanks again!

[Elaine T]

wrote:
> Your replies are great, all. I will try the baking soda (not baking
> powder) route. 2 key differences between the big tank and the little
> tank are - the big (7.5 ph) tank has a couple of seashells in it and
> the plants (java fern) are doing great. I will also try seashells.
>
> 2 questions - 1. will the baking soda add salt to my tanks, and if so
> do I need to be careful about it? 2. will the seashells add salt to my
> tanks?
>
Yes, the baking soda will add salt to your tanks. Don't worry about it
because the seashells will start working fairly quickly and then you
won't need to add more baking soda. It's also a pretty small amount of
salt. The seashells will make your water harder rather than salty.

In case you're curious, baking soda is sodium bicarbonate, and seashells
are calcium carbonate. It's the carbonate (KH) you're really after.

--
__ Elaine T __
><__'> http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><

[[email protected]]

Cool! thanks for the tips all. I just remeasured the 15 gallon tank's
ph and it is now at 6.5. Those 1/3 water changes over the last 3 or 4
days must have helped tremendously. I added 1/2-1/4 teaspoon of baking
soda after mixing it with some of the tank's water, did that after
latest measurement. Also added a bunch of seashells after the latest
measurement. Also did miscellaneous today (changed mechanical filter
media), etc.. The fish look happy. Will add more seashells to the 55
gallon tank soon after cleaning some good, as that shell or two might
be pretty used up. Cool - no chemicals needed (excluding aquasafe to be
sure cloramines don't get in the tank's water), thanks again, later.
Thanks Elaine - :-) .

[Lisa]

Getting a bigger tank to begin with also assists with MTS
(Multiple-tank-syndrome), LOL. It's easier to go smaller than bigger!!

Cheers,

- Lisa in Central Coast CA
(Who's just added a 4th tank. It's a QT (quarantine tank). I followed
the sane advice of Geezer From The Freezer on my "What would YOU put in
a 6-gallon Mini-bow" thread.) Hmmm. But I think I need another . . .
..

[Elaine T]

wrote:
> Cool! thanks for the tips all. I just remeasured the 15 gallon tank's
> ph and it is now at 6.5. Those 1/3 water changes over the last 3 or 4
> days must have helped tremendously. I added 1/2-1/4 teaspoon of baking
> soda after mixing it with some of the tank's water, did that after
> latest measurement. Also added a bunch of seashells after the latest
> measurement. Also did miscellaneous today (changed mechanical filter
> media), etc.. The fish look happy. Will add more seashells to the 55
> gallon tank soon after cleaning some good, as that shell or two might
> be pretty used up. Cool - no chemicals needed (excluding aquasafe to be
> sure cloramines don't get in the tank's water), thanks again, later.
> Thanks Elaine - :-) .
>
You're welcome! :-) Glad the fish look happy.

Now just watch pH for a while. If it gets too high, you've got too many
seashells dissolving at once. Lots of seashells or aragonite/crushed
coral substrate will tend to push the pH up to 8.4. This is great if
you have Tanganyikan cichlids or a sal****er tank, but not so great for
a lot of other fish.

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__ Elaine T __
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