Algae! UNCLE!

[Shagster]

OK.. I give up.. I've been fighting major algae problems for MONTHS.. I'm
about to tear down my tank and get out of the hobby. NOTHING is working for
me....

Are they're ANY chemical solutions that are live plant friendly??

Troy

[js1]

On 2005-04-26, Shagster > wrote:
> OK.. I give up.. I've been fighting major algae problems for MONTHS.. I'm
> about to tear down my tank and get out of the hobby. NOTHING is working for
> me....
>
> Are they're ANY chemical solutions that are live plant friendly??
>

Yeah, it's called fertilizer. The nutrients in your tank are off.

http://plantgeek.net/article_viewer.php?id=9
http://www.aquariaplants.com/alqaeproblems.htm
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_algae.htm

More links about dosing your tank:

http://userwww.service.emory.edu/~jrevenn/Articles/dosing%20dry%20pmdd.html
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/articles.htm

Without knowing the details of your tank, one possible start would be
to have as the only inhabitants of your tank some SAE and other algae
eating fish. Don't feed the tank at all, and let the algae eaters eat
the algae. And, try to get your nutrient levels under control.
--
"I have to decide between two equally frightening options.
If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman

[Elaine T]

Shagster wrote:
> OK.. I give up.. I've been fighting major algae problems for MONTHS.. I'm
> about to tear down my tank and get out of the hobby. NOTHING is working for
> me....
>
> Are they're ANY chemical solutions that are live plant friendly??
>
> Troy
>
>
Algaefix is supposed to be friendly to most plants and kill most algae.
YMMV. Avoid Algae Destroyer and other products containing simazine
because simazine is not friendly to bunch plants and grasses like
valisneria. http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/simazine.html

A UV unit is good for unicellular suspended algae if your water is green.

If you want other alternatives from a bunch of other algae experts (I
think I've grown and fixed all but staghorn at some time or another),
you could post more about your tank and what you've tried. i.e. Tank
size, lighting, plants, kinds of algae, fish population, filtration,
nitrate and phosphate levels, water change schedule... Most algae
problems can be fixed without chemicals.

--
Elaine T __
http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com

[Shagster]

I WAS adding fert. to the tank, but I've stopped all of that.. Obviously,
something is off... But I'm not sure how to tell exactly WHAT that is...
I'm going to start daily 95% water changes (and stop all fert.) and see how
it goes..

Overfeeding is NOT a problem... Plus I have two flying foxes, one algae
eater, and an otto...

:(


"js1" > wrote in message
...
> On 2005-04-26, Shagster > wrote:
>> OK.. I give up.. I've been fighting major algae problems for MONTHS..
>> I'm
>> about to tear down my tank and get out of the hobby. NOTHING is working
>> for
>> me....
>>
>> Are they're ANY chemical solutions that are live plant friendly??
>>
>
> Yeah, it's called fertilizer. The nutrients in your tank are off.
>
> http://plantgeek.net/article_viewer.php?id=9
> http://www.aquariaplants.com/alqaeproblems.htm
> http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_algae.htm
>
> More links about dosing your tank:
>
>
> http://userwww.service.emory.edu/~jrevenn/Articles/dosing%20dry%20pmdd.html
> http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/articles.htm
>
> Without knowing the details of your tank, one possible start would be
> to have as the only inhabitants of your tank some SAE and other algae
> eating fish. Don't feed the tank at all, and let the algae eaters eat
> the algae. And, try to get your nutrient levels under control.
> --
> "I have to decide between two equally frightening options.
> If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman
>

[Shagster]

I'm running a UV sterilizer... :( That hasn't done much.. Water is still
turning green within 3 days of a water change!

"Elaine T" > wrote in message
m...
> Shagster wrote:
>> OK.. I give up.. I've been fighting major algae problems for MONTHS..
>> I'm about to tear down my tank and get out of the hobby. NOTHING is
>> working for me....
>>
>> Are they're ANY chemical solutions that are live plant friendly??
>>
>> Troy
>>
>>
> Algaefix is supposed to be friendly to most plants and kill most algae.
> YMMV. Avoid Algae Destroyer and other products containing simazine
> because simazine is not friendly to bunch plants and grasses like
> valisneria. http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/simazine.html
>
> A UV unit is good for unicellular suspended algae if your water is green.
>
> If you want other alternatives from a bunch of other algae experts (I
> think I've grown and fixed all but staghorn at some time or another), you
> could post more about your tank and what you've tried. i.e. Tank size,
> lighting, plants, kinds of algae, fish population, filtration, nitrate and
> phosphate levels, water change schedule... Most algae problems can be
> fixed without chemicals.
>
> --
> Elaine T __
> http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
> rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com

[js1]

On 2005-04-26, Shagster > wrote:
> I'm running a UV sterilizer... :( That hasn't done much.. Water is still
> turning green within 3 days of a water change!
>

That's strange... the UV should work pretty good... should...

What kind of plants do you have in there? It may be as simple as a
nitrate/phosphate imbalance. What's your nitrate levels?

You may want some nitrate sponges like Indian Fern or Anacharis.
http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_viewer.php?id=52

You shouldn't dose unless you are measuring the levels. Plus,
what other fish do you have in there besides the algae eaters?

--
"I have to decide between two equally frightening options.
If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman

[js1]

On 2005-04-26, js1 > wrote:
>
> That's strange... the UV should work pretty good... should...
>

Let me clarify... the UV filter should work good for the green water.
Anything that passes through the UV light should get zapped. Worked
great on my 4W/gal tank.
--
"I have to decide between two equally frightening options.
If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman

[Elaine T]

Shagster wrote:
> I'm running a UV sterilizer... :( That hasn't done much.. Water is still
> turning green within 3 days of a water change!
>
> "Elaine T" > wrote in message
> m...
>
>>Shagster wrote:
>>
>>>OK.. I give up.. I've been fighting major algae problems for MONTHS..
>>>I'm about to tear down my tank and get out of the hobby. NOTHING is
>>>working for me....
>>>
>>>Are they're ANY chemical solutions that are live plant friendly??
>>>
>>>Troy
>>>
>>>
>>
>>Algaefix is supposed to be friendly to most plants and kill most algae.
>>YMMV. Avoid Algae Destroyer and other products containing simazine
>>because simazine is not friendly to bunch plants and grasses like
>>valisneria. http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/simazine.html
>>
>>A UV unit is good for unicellular suspended algae if your water is green.
>>
>>If you want other alternatives from a bunch of other algae experts (I
>>think I've grown and fixed all but staghorn at some time or another), you
>>could post more about your tank and what you've tried. i.e. Tank size,
>>lighting, plants, kinds of algae, fish population, filtration, nitrate and
>>phosphate levels, water change schedule... Most algae problems can be
>>fixed without chemicals.
>>
>>--
>>Elaine T __
>>http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
>>rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com
>
>
>
Eek! That IS bad. I see why you're frustrated. BTW, your UV unit may
need a new bulb or slower flow rate. It really should keep the green
water at bay.

The 95% water changes are a good plan and will lower nutrients to
tapwater levels. Sort of a giant tank reset. Then you need to get
nitrate and phosphate test kits and start watching nitrates and
phosphates. Js1 gave you great links that will explain where to go from
there.

Come back and bug us for more info when you need it!

--
Elaine T __
http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com

[Happy'Cam'per]

If he's getting green water within days of a wc then I would say the tank
has'nt built up enough nitrifying bacteria yet. Free floating ammonia in the
water column will always give you green water. Do a good gravel vacuum,
clean your filter and start again, this time cycle the tank first!
--
Kind Regards
Cameron

"Elaine T" > wrote in message
. ..
> Shagster wrote:
> > I'm running a UV sterilizer... :( That hasn't done much.. Water is
still
> > turning green within 3 days of a water change!
> >
> > "Elaine T" > wrote in message
> > m...
> >
> >>Shagster wrote:
> >>
> >>>OK.. I give up.. I've been fighting major algae problems for MONTHS..
> >>>I'm about to tear down my tank and get out of the hobby. NOTHING is
> >>>working for me....
> >>>
> >>>Are they're ANY chemical solutions that are live plant friendly??
> >>>
> >>>Troy
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>Algaefix is supposed to be friendly to most plants and kill most algae.
> >>YMMV. Avoid Algae Destroyer and other products containing simazine
> >>because simazine is not friendly to bunch plants and grasses like
> >>valisneria. http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/simazine.html
> >>
> >>A UV unit is good for unicellular suspended algae if your water is
green.
> >>
> >>If you want other alternatives from a bunch of other algae experts (I
> >>think I've grown and fixed all but staghorn at some time or another),
you
> >>could post more about your tank and what you've tried. i.e. Tank size,
> >>lighting, plants, kinds of algae, fish population, filtration, nitrate
and
> >>phosphate levels, water change schedule... Most algae problems can be
> >>fixed without chemicals.
> >>
> >>--
> >>Elaine T __
> >>http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
> >>rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com
> >
> >
> >
> Eek! That IS bad. I see why you're frustrated. BTW, your UV unit may
> need a new bulb or slower flow rate. It really should keep the green
> water at bay.
>
> The 95% water changes are a good plan and will lower nutrients to
> tapwater levels. Sort of a giant tank reset. Then you need to get
> nitrate and phosphate test kits and start watching nitrates and
> phosphates. Js1 gave you great links that will explain where to go from
> there.
>
> Come back and bug us for more info when you need it!
>
> --
> Elaine T __
> http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
> rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com

[Shagster]

Cycle the tank! It's been in operation for about 3 years now! The gravel
is terribly "dirty".. I'm not sure WHAT exactly all that "sludge" is... My
fish are only fed 2x per week.....but there seems to be no end to the
sludge.. I'll have to pull everything out and reset!

Also, what can I do to get the algea off the plants?? Is there some type of
water/bleach dip?


"Happy'Cam'per" > wrote in message
...
>
> If he's getting green water within days of a wc then I would say the tank
> has'nt built up enough nitrifying bacteria yet. Free floating ammonia in
> the
> water column will always give you green water. Do a good gravel vacuum,
> clean your filter and start again, this time cycle the tank first!
> --
> Kind Regards
> Cameron
>
> "Elaine T" > wrote in message
> . ..
>> Shagster wrote:
>> > I'm running a UV sterilizer... :( That hasn't done much.. Water is
> still
>> > turning green within 3 days of a water change!
>> >
>> > "Elaine T" > wrote in message
>> > m...
>> >
>> >>Shagster wrote:
>> >>
>> >>>OK.. I give up.. I've been fighting major algae problems for
>> >>>MONTHS..
>> >>>I'm about to tear down my tank and get out of the hobby. NOTHING is
>> >>>working for me....
>> >>>
>> >>>Are they're ANY chemical solutions that are live plant friendly??
>> >>>
>> >>>Troy
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >>Algaefix is supposed to be friendly to most plants and kill most algae.
>> >>YMMV. Avoid Algae Destroyer and other products containing simazine
>> >>because simazine is not friendly to bunch plants and grasses like
>> >>valisneria. http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/simazine.html
>> >>
>> >>A UV unit is good for unicellular suspended algae if your water is
> green.
>> >>
>> >>If you want other alternatives from a bunch of other algae experts (I
>> >>think I've grown and fixed all but staghorn at some time or another),
> you
>> >>could post more about your tank and what you've tried. i.e. Tank size,
>> >>lighting, plants, kinds of algae, fish population, filtration, nitrate
> and
>> >>phosphate levels, water change schedule... Most algae problems can be
>> >>fixed without chemicals.
>> >>
>> >>--
>> >>Elaine T __
>> >>http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
>> >>rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> Eek! That IS bad. I see why you're frustrated. BTW, your UV unit may
>> need a new bulb or slower flow rate. It really should keep the green
>> water at bay.
>>
>> The 95% water changes are a good plan and will lower nutrients to
>> tapwater levels. Sort of a giant tank reset. Then you need to get
>> nitrate and phosphate test kits and start watching nitrates and
>> phosphates. Js1 gave you great links that will explain where to go from
>> there.
>>
>> Come back and bug us for more info when you need it!
>>
>> --
>> Elaine T __
>> http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
>> rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com
>
>

[Elaine T]

Shagster wrote:
> Cycle the tank! It's been in operation for about 3 years now! The gravel
> is terribly "dirty".. I'm not sure WHAT exactly all that "sludge" is... My
> fish are only fed 2x per week.....but there seems to be no end to the
> sludge.. I'll have to pull everything out and reset!
>
> Also, what can I do to get the algea off the plants?? Is there some type of
> water/bleach dip?
>
Ah - so you found the problem. Great! The sludge is broken down plant
leaves and roots, fish droppings, and uneaten food.

Bleach will set your plants back. Peroxide's a bit easier. However,
most of us use algae eating fish, shrimp, and snails. You say you have
2 flying foxes - those aren't great algae eaters unless they're
mislabeled C. siamensis. One "algae eater" - hopefully this isn't a
Chinese algae eater because those don't eat much algae and get quite
aggressive. One otocinclus - great algae eater, but you need about one
otocinclus per 5 gallons for a heavily planted tank. They're shoaling
too so he will appreciate company.

Check out http://www.thekrib.com/Fish/Algae-Eaters/ to learn about
siamese algae eaters, chinese algae eaters, and flying foxes.

My favorate algae eaters and scavengers are
siamese algae eater
Otocinclus spp.
Ancistrus spp. - bristle nose plec
Farlowella spp. - stick catfish
Black mollies - 1 male, 2 female
Ameca splendens - a bit aggressive and can be hard to find
Amano shrimp
Ramshorn snails (red are cool) - NOT the big columbian ramshorn
Mystery snail - applesnail.net says how to identify the non-plant eating
kind.

How many and which depends on tank size and types of algae.

--
Elaine T __
http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com

[Jim Anderson]

In article >, says...

> Plus I have two flying foxes, one algae
> eater, and an otto...
>
>
IIRC flying fox is a fish slim eater, if the 'algea eater' is Chinese
they do not eat algea either.

--
Jim Anderson
( 8(|) To email me just pull my_finger

[Shagster]

Thank you for the feedback.

"Elaine T" > wrote in message
...
> Shagster wrote:
>> Cycle the tank! It's been in operation for about 3 years now! The
>> gravel is terribly "dirty".. I'm not sure WHAT exactly all that "sludge"
>> is... My fish are only fed 2x per week.....but there seems to be no end
>> to the sludge.. I'll have to pull everything out and reset!
>>
>> Also, what can I do to get the algea off the plants?? Is there some type
>> of water/bleach dip?
>>
> Ah - so you found the problem. Great! The sludge is broken down plant
> leaves and roots, fish droppings, and uneaten food.
>
> Bleach will set your plants back. Peroxide's a bit easier. However, most
> of us use algae eating fish, shrimp, and snails. You say you have 2
> flying foxes - those aren't great algae eaters unless they're mislabeled
> C. siamensis. One "algae eater" - hopefully this isn't a Chinese algae
> eater because those don't eat much algae and get quite aggressive. One
> otocinclus - great algae eater, but you need about one otocinclus per 5
> gallons for a heavily planted tank. They're shoaling too so he will
> appreciate company.
>
> Check out http://www.thekrib.com/Fish/Algae-Eaters/ to learn about siamese
> algae eaters, chinese algae eaters, and flying foxes.
>
> My favorate algae eaters and scavengers are
> siamese algae eater
> Otocinclus spp.
> Ancistrus spp. - bristle nose plec
> Farlowella spp. - stick catfish
> Black mollies - 1 male, 2 female
> Ameca splendens - a bit aggressive and can be hard to find
> Amano shrimp
> Ramshorn snails (red are cool) - NOT the big columbian ramshorn
> Mystery snail - applesnail.net says how to identify the non-plant eating
> kind.
>
> How many and which depends on tank size and types of algae.
>
> --
> Elaine T __
> http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
> rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com

[Justin]

Just one more thing you may try... I had green water when I first set up my
tank, as i'm sure we all did... My LFS recommended fresh water clams...
They filter about 20 litres an hour (sorry, I don't know gallons) and don't
have the same effect as some say UV units do on the water column...

I put 2 in my 200litre tank and the green water was gone in one and a half
days, I now keep one it at all times and he maintains everthing...

Hope this helps...

Justin.
"Elaine T" > wrote in message
m...
> Shagster wrote:
>> OK.. I give up.. I've been fighting major algae problems for MONTHS..
>> I'm about to tear down my tank and get out of the hobby. NOTHING is
>> working for me....
>>
>> Are they're ANY chemical solutions that are live plant friendly??
>>
>> Troy
>>
>>
> Algaefix is supposed to be friendly to most plants and kill most algae.
> YMMV. Avoid Algae Destroyer and other products containing simazine
> because simazine is not friendly to bunch plants and grasses like
> valisneria. http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/simazine.html
>
> A UV unit is good for unicellular suspended algae if your water is green.
>
> If you want other alternatives from a bunch of other algae experts (I
> think I've grown and fixed all but staghorn at some time or another), you
> could post more about your tank and what you've tried. i.e. Tank size,
> lighting, plants, kinds of algae, fish population, filtration, nitrate and
> phosphate levels, water change schedule... Most algae problems can be
> fixed without chemicals.
>
> --
> Elaine T __
> http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
> rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com

[sophiefishstuff]

In message >, Justin >
writes
>Just one more thing you may try... I had green water when I first set up my
>tank, as i'm sure we all did... My LFS recommended fresh water clams...
>They filter about 20 litres an hour (sorry, I don't know gallons) and don't
>have the same effect as some say UV units do on the water column...
>
>I put 2 in my 200litre tank and the green water was gone in one and a half
>days, I now keep one it at all times and he maintains everthing...

that sounds very interesting.

I managed to get rid of my green water by

a) aggressive water changes (50% daily or every other day when daily
wasn't possible)

and

b) adding a cheap box filter (airpump powered) to the tank.

I think the combination was important, the water changes didn't seem to
be helping on their own, except by diluting the algae. Within a week of
starting the combination the water was absolutely crystal clear and has
stayed that way (so far. This is a few weeks down the line only). I now
leave the box filter on all day, it goes off at night. The green water
outbreak coincided with the green hair algae which had been infesting
EVERYTHING stopping growing. It is now growing again but very slowly. I
don't have problem with green algae on rocks & driftwood, I think it
looks natural and the goldfish eat vast quantities of it; it's been very
good for them. I clean it off the glass with an old credit card if it
starts to grow on there.
>


>Hope this helps...
>
>Justin.
>"Elaine T" > wrote in message
m...
>> Shagster wrote:
>>> OK.. I give up.. I've been fighting major algae problems for MONTHS..
>>> I'm about to tear down my tank and get out of the hobby. NOTHING is
>>> working for me....
>>>
>>> Are they're ANY chemical solutions that are live plant friendly??
>>>
>>> Troy
>>>
>>>
>> Algaefix is supposed to be friendly to most plants and kill most algae.
>> YMMV. Avoid Algae Destroyer and other products containing simazine
>> because simazine is not friendly to bunch plants and grasses like
>> valisneria. http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/simazine.html
>>
>> A UV unit is good for unicellular suspended algae if your water is green.
>>
>> If you want other alternatives from a bunch of other algae experts (I
>> think I've grown and fixed all but staghorn at some time or another), you
>> could post more about your tank and what you've tried. i.e. Tank size,
>> lighting, plants, kinds of algae, fish population, filtration, nitrate and
>> phosphate levels, water change schedule... Most algae problems can be
>> fixed without chemicals.
>>
>> --
>> Elaine T __
>> http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
>> rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com
>
>

--
sophie

www.freewebs.com/fishstuff
(under construction. ish.)

[[email protected]]

Just to add to the good advice you've already received.

Check your nitrates and phosphates and work on those. Algae loves both.

I suspect that the sludge in the bottom of the tank is the real culprit -
vacuum out as much out as possible - strip down as much as possble to
acheive this.

Check your tap water for nitrates and phosphates, the source water could
also be contributing. Doing water changes with tap-water that is high in
nitrates etc will not dilute the existing nitrates as much (or at least will
not get them down to the minimum required). Plan on doing lots of water
changes - perhaps 30 to 50% at a time a couple of times a week for a while
until the nitrates are under control. Having done this, you could add a
nitrate pad to your filter to keep it down.

Also, clean your filters regularly (maybe once or twice a week at first) in
tank water. The build up of detritus in the filter will often start feeding
nitrates back into the system.

Don't bother taking the chemical route, you need to fix the problem at
source which is too many algae feeding nutrients - nitrate and phosphate.

One other thought, in addition to the above, if you have planted aquarium,
you could also add some CO2 (if you don't have it already) to get your plant
growth up to it's maximum. Plants growing flat-out will use a lot more of
the excess nutrients and so depriving the algae.

Hope it helps

Mark

[[email protected]]

The bulb may not be good, replace it and it should take it out asap.

Regards,
Tom Barr

[[email protected]]

How big is the tank, do you use CO2? What brand is the UV/age?

Regards,
Tom Barr

[Troy Bruder]

It's a 29 Gallon tank, with CO2 injection right into the intake of my Fluval
204 canister filter.. I have a Turbo Twist 6x UV driven by a Quiet One 1200
pump...

SUPPOSEDLY, the UV bulb is only about 4 months old.. I bought the unit
used, so they may not have told the truth..


Troy


> wrote in message
oups.com...
> How big is the tank, do you use CO2? What brand is the UV/age?
>
> Regards,
> Tom Barr
>

[js1]

On 2005-04-28, Troy Bruder > wrote:
> It's a 29 Gallon tank, with CO2 injection right into the intake of my Fluval
> 204 canister filter.. I have a Turbo Twist 6x UV driven by a Quiet One 1200
> pump...

How much lighting do you have in the 29G?

--
"I have to decide between two equally frightening options.
If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman

[Shagster]

96 Watts.

"js1" > wrote in message
...
> On 2005-04-28, Troy Bruder > wrote:
>> It's a 29 Gallon tank, with CO2 injection right into the intake of my
>> Fluval
>> 204 canister filter.. I have a Turbo Twist 6x UV driven by a Quiet One
>> 1200
>> pump...
>
> How much lighting do you have in the 29G?
>
> --
> "I have to decide between two equally frightening options.
> If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman
>

[js1]

On 2005-04-29, Shagster > wrote:
> 96 Watts.
>

Yeah, I use 65W on my 29G, and it's really managable. You may just need
to stock more plants.

--
"I have to decide between two equally frightening options.
If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman

[Elaine T]

js1 wrote:
> On 2005-04-29, Shagster > wrote:
>
>>96 Watts.
>>
>
>
> Yeah, I use 65W on my 29G, and it's really managable. You may just need
> to stock more plants.
>
I had 60W of Tritons over a 29G and found it very managable too. If you
don't have tremendously high light plants, I wonder if dropping the
light a bit wouldn't help? Unless you're trying to grow submerged
riccia or something, I don't know that you need that much light. I was
growing bright red Rotala macrantha with no problems.

--
Elaine T __
http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com

[[email protected]]

O)kay, you have 96 watt of PC lighting over a small tank, you add CO2,
is this DIY or a Gas tank system?

Either way, you need to make certain you have good high CO2 during the
light cycle. 25-30ppm.

As far as nutrients etc, adding them will not help nor hurt the algae.
The UV should work fine, but something is wrong, most likely the bulb.
Get a new one.

In the meantime, don't worry, the algae will not hurt the plants, nor
cause any problems, nor be going anywhere.

Just be patient.

After wards, the UV will roast the algae and this will not be a problem
in the future again.

Nutrient routine:
1/4 teaspoon KNO3, 1/16" KH2PO4 3x aweek
5mls of Trace mix, 3x a week.
50% weekly water change.

Vacuum up any mulm/detritus and clean the equipment etc.
Your tank will be very clean inside a couple of weeks and adding the
new light will top things off.

Add light for 10 hours.

Regards,
Tom Barr


3rd annual Plant Fest July 8-14th 2005!
Get connected
www.BarrReport.com Get the information

[Shagster]

Tom,

Thank you VERY much.. Right now, I have black algae all over the plants...
You think it will go away?? Also, you mention 5ml of "Trace" mix.. Can you
recommend one?

THANKS!
Troy

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> O)kay, you have 96 watt of PC lighting over a small tank, you add CO2,
> is this DIY or a Gas tank system?
>
> Either way, you need to make certain you have good high CO2 during the
> light cycle. 25-30ppm.
>
> As far as nutrients etc, adding them will not help nor hurt the algae.
> The UV should work fine, but something is wrong, most likely the bulb.
> Get a new one.
>
> In the meantime, don't worry, the algae will not hurt the plants, nor
> cause any problems, nor be going anywhere.
>
> Just be patient.
>
> After wards, the UV will roast the algae and this will not be a problem
> in the future again.
>
> Nutrient routine:
> 1/4 teaspoon KNO3, 1/16" KH2PO4 3x aweek
> 5mls of Trace mix, 3x a week.
> 50% weekly water change.
>
> Vacuum up any mulm/detritus and clean the equipment etc.
> Your tank will be very clean inside a couple of weeks and adding the
> new light will top things off.
>
> Add light for 10 hours.
>
> Regards,
> Tom Barr
>
>
> 3rd annual Plant Fest July 8-14th 2005!
> Get connected
> www.BarrReport.com Get the information
>

[Shagster]

Actually, my plant stock is LOW... I'm thinking of removing everything with
black algae on it, cleaning all of the mulm, then doing a massing
replanting...

THANKS!
Troy

"js1" > wrote in message
...
> On 2005-04-29, Shagster > wrote:
>> 96 Watts.
>>
>
> Yeah, I use 65W on my 29G, and it's really managable. You may just need
> to stock more plants.
>
> --
> "I have to decide between two equally frightening options.
> If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman
>

[Elaine T]

Shagster wrote:
> Actually, my plant stock is LOW... I'm thinking of removing everything with
> black algae on it, cleaning all of the mulm, then doing a massing
> replanting...
>
> THANKS!
> Troy

You need SAE to eat the black algae. Here's how to ID the fish.
http://www.thekrib.com/Fish/Algae-Eaters/ They're almost magical in
their ablity to gradually clear the stuff out.
>
> "js1" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>On 2005-04-29, Shagster > wrote:
>>
>>>96 Watts.
>>>
>>
>>Yeah, I use 65W on my 29G, and it's really managable. You may just need
>>to stock more plants.
>>
>>--
>>"I have to decide between two equally frightening options.
>> If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman
>>
>
>
>


--
Elaine T __
http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com

[js1]

On 2005-04-30, Shagster > wrote:
> Actually, my plant stock is LOW... I'm thinking of removing everything with
> black algae on it, cleaning all of the mulm, then doing a massing
> replanting...

The trick with SAE is not to feed them. That way, they will start
looking for algae to eat instead of waiting for food. Maybe supplement
their diet by feeding them once a week with algae wafers, but you just
don't want them becoming dependent on your feeding. This is harder
to do when you have other fish in the tank.

--
"I have to decide between two equally frightening options.
If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman

[[email protected]]

No, the BBA will not go away on it's own, it will stop growing if you
add ample CO2, then it will no longer spread and new plant growth will
appear.

So trim it off.
Add fresh plants if you need to trim off a lot.
Keep the plant biomass up and the algae low.

Bleaching is often suggested, but ther leaves look like crap afterwards
and really don't recover well and offer no good support contribution
for the plant.

Beeter and easier to trim them off, replant with new plants and wait
for the new growth to come in and then phase out cheapy plants.

Next time, don't allow the tank to get that bad before you decide to
treat and fix the issue.
I know you did not know this to start with, but now you'll know what to
do and how to do it.

Then it becomes old hat and the same old thing over and over.

TMG or Flourish are the two best Traces I feel. Sort of a subjective
endorsement though.

Regards,
Tom Barr

[Shagster]

I have TWO of 'em.... Not the "fake" ones either... They ARE cleaning the
leaves... Since 5 straight days of water changes, plus manual cleaning of
the plants, things are looking MUCH better.


"js1" > wrote in message
...
> On 2005-04-30, Shagster > wrote:
>> Actually, my plant stock is LOW... I'm thinking of removing everything
>> with
>> black algae on it, cleaning all of the mulm, then doing a massing
>> replanting...
>
> The trick with SAE is not to feed them. That way, they will start
> looking for algae to eat instead of waiting for food. Maybe supplement
> their diet by feeding them once a week with algae wafers, but you just
> don't want them becoming dependent on your feeding. This is harder
> to do when you have other fish in the tank.
>
> --
> "I have to decide between two equally frightening options.
> If I wanted to do that, I'd vote." --Duckman
>