Dechlorinating Water

[Lyghthouse]

If I run a bucket of tapwater and add dechlorinator how long before I can
add the water to my tank?

Last night I changed about 3 UK gallons of water but this morning I notice
that some of my danios gills are red. I only let the water stand for about
five minutes before adding it to the tank as there were no other
instructiions on the bottle except add the dechlorinator to the tap water.

Regards

Lyghthouse

[Gill Passman]

"Lyghthouse" > wrote in message
. uk...
> If I run a bucket of tapwater and add dechlorinator how long before I can
> add the water to my tank?
>
> Last night I changed about 3 UK gallons of water but this morning I notice
> that some of my danios gills are red. I only let the water stand for
about
> five minutes before adding it to the tank as there were no other
> instructiions on the bottle except add the dechlorinator to the tap water.
>
> Regards
>
> Lyghthouse
>
>
What percentage is 3UK gallons of your tank capacity? and what dechlorinator
did you add? Did you bring the water up to the temperature of the tank
water?

I generally do around 10-20% weekly changes using UK tap water and add "Aqua
Plus". I bring the water up to temperature using boiled kettle water and
then put it straight in with no problems.

Gill

[Victor Martinez]

David C. Stone wrote:
> I put the dechlorinator in the bucket before filling - that way, it
> gets thoroughly mixed in while filling. I usually put the water in
> the tank as soon as the bucket is full.

I add the dechlorinator (Prime) in the tank then add water using my
pithon. Never had a problem. This is a 110g tank though.

--
Victor M. Martinez
Owned and operated by the Fantastic Seven (TM)
Send your spam here:
Email me here:

[David C. Stone]

In article >, Gill Passman
wrote:

> "Lyghthouse" > wrote in message
> . uk...
> > If I run a bucket of tapwater and add dechlorinator how long before I can
> > add the water to my tank?
> >
> > Last night I changed about 3 UK gallons of water but this morning I notice
> > that some of my danios gills are red. I only let the water stand for
> about
> > five minutes before adding it to the tank as there were no other
> > instructiions on the bottle except add the dechlorinator to the tap water.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Lyghthouse
> >
> >
> What percentage is 3UK gallons of your tank capacity? and what dechlorinator
> did you add? Did you bring the water up to the temperature of the tank
> water?
>
> I generally do around 10-20% weekly changes using UK tap water and add "Aqua
> Plus". I bring the water up to temperature using boiled kettle water and
> then put it straight in with no problems.

I put the dechlorinator in the bucket before filling - that way, it
gets thoroughly mixed in while filling. I usually put the water in
the tank as soon as the bucket is full.

[Lyghthouse]

"Gill Passman" <gillspamattaylorpassmanspam.co.uk> wrote in message
.. .
>
> "Lyghthouse" > wrote in message
> . uk...
>> If I run a bucket of tapwater and add dechlorinator how long before I can
>> add the water to my tank?
>>
>> Last night I changed about 3 UK gallons of water but this morning I
>> notice
>> that some of my danios gills are red. I only let the water stand for
> about
>> five minutes before adding it to the tank as there were no other
>> instructiions on the bottle except add the dechlorinator to the tap
>> water.
>>
>> Regards
>>
>> Lyghthouse
>>
>>
> What percentage is 3UK gallons of your tank capacity? and what
> dechlorinator
> did you add? Did you bring the water up to the temperature of the tank
> water?
>
> I generally do around 10-20% weekly changes using UK tap water and add
> "Aqua
> Plus". I bring the water up to temperature using boiled kettle water and
> then put it straight in with no problems.
>
> Gill
>
>
>

It is about 20% of the volume and I also use Aqua Plus delchlorinator.

I only filled with tap water from my hot and cold tap to equalise the temp.
My hot supply is through a combi boiler so I thought it would be okay to
use.

I noticed that the water temperature of the tank was raised by 2 celsius to
28 after I added the water then sowly cooled down over the next few hours to
26.

Regard

Lyghthouse

[Gill Passman]

"Lyghthouse" > wrote in message
k...
>
> "Gill Passman" <gillspamattaylorpassmanspam.co.uk> wrote in message
> .. .
> >
> > "Lyghthouse" > wrote in message
> > . uk...
> >> If I run a bucket of tapwater and add dechlorinator how long before I
can
> >> add the water to my tank?
> >>
> >> Last night I changed about 3 UK gallons of water but this morning I
> >> notice
> >> that some of my danios gills are red. I only let the water stand for
> > about
> >> five minutes before adding it to the tank as there were no other
> >> instructiions on the bottle except add the dechlorinator to the tap
> >> water.
> >>
> >> Regards
> >>
> >> Lyghthouse
> >>
> >>
> > What percentage is 3UK gallons of your tank capacity? and what
> > dechlorinator
> > did you add? Did you bring the water up to the temperature of the tank
> > water?
> >
> > I generally do around 10-20% weekly changes using UK tap water and add
> > "Aqua
> > Plus". I bring the water up to temperature using boiled kettle water and
> > then put it straight in with no problems.
> >
> > Gill
> >
> >
> >
>
> It is about 20% of the volume and I also use Aqua Plus delchlorinator.
>
> I only filled with tap water from my hot and cold tap to equalise the
temp.
> My hot supply is through a combi boiler so I thought it would be okay to
> use.
>
> I noticed that the water temperature of the tank was raised by 2 celsius
to
> 28 after I added the water then sowly cooled down over the next few hours
to
> 26.
>
> Regard
>
> Lyghthouse
>
>
So I'm guessing this a 15gall tank. Maybe try taking the temp of the water
before putting it in and try to match it closer to the tank.

Another thought is did you gravel vac at the same time as the change? Maybe
you released some gases into the water....

I don't use my hot tap water as it comes from a copper tank but as you say
this shouldn't apply to you with a combi boiler. I usually find adding half
a kettle of boiling water to a 3gall bucket brings it to around 27C.

How are the fish now? Did they settle again?

Gill

[Justin West]

As a new hobbyist to aquariums my knowledge will not prove to helpful
I'm afraid; however, that being said I have read a number of times that
is important to know what your waterworks uses to clean the water.

Typically either chlorine or chlorimine (sp, or for that matter even
proper word?) is used. Perhaps check the product to see that your
removing the appropriate substance?

I feel like that robot on Hitch Hiker's Guide ... "I know, probably no
help at all".

Justin

[Elaine T]

Justin West wrote:
> As a new hobbyist to aquariums my knowledge will not prove to helpful
> I'm afraid; however, that being said I have read a number of times that
> is important to know what your waterworks uses to clean the water.
>
> Typically either chlorine or chlorimine (sp, or for that matter even
> proper word?) is used. Perhaps check the product to see that your
> removing the appropriate substance?
>
> I feel like that robot on Hitch Hiker's Guide ... "I know, probably no
> help at all".
>
> Justin
>
Wasn't the new Hitch Hiker's fun?

I think you're right on, Justin. One of the symptoms of ammonia
poisoning is purple gills. Chloramine releases both chlorine and
ammonia when you add a water conditioner to it. If you did a big enough
water change, treated with only sodium thiosulfate, and have chloramines
in your water, that could explain it.

Water conditioners work within seconds to half a minute if you mix well,
so you don't need to let treated water sit. The other thing that comes
to mind is that you didn't use enough conditioner. If you're sure
you've got the right conditioner for chlorine/chloramine, try a double
dose next time.

--
Elaine T __
http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com

[Lyghthouse]

Thanks for all your advice

The fish gills are not as red now and some of them appear to be back to
normal.

Regards

Lyghthouse

[Gill Passman]

"Elaine T" > wrote in message
m...
> Justin West wrote:
> > As a new hobbyist to aquariums my knowledge will not prove to helpful
> > I'm afraid; however, that being said I have read a number of times that
> > is important to know what your waterworks uses to clean the water.
> >
> > Typically either chlorine or chlorimine (sp, or for that matter even
> > proper word?) is used. Perhaps check the product to see that your
> > removing the appropriate substance?
> >
> > I feel like that robot on Hitch Hiker's Guide ... "I know, probably no
> > help at all".
> >
> > Justin
> >
> Wasn't the new Hitch Hiker's fun?
>
> I think you're right on, Justin. One of the symptoms of ammonia
> poisoning is purple gills. Chloramine releases both chlorine and
> ammonia when you add a water conditioner to it. If you did a big enough
> water change, treated with only sodium thiosulfate, and have chloramines
> in your water, that could explain it.
>
> Water conditioners work within seconds to half a minute if you mix well,
> so you don't need to let treated water sit. The other thing that comes
> to mind is that you didn't use enough conditioner. If you're sure
> you've got the right conditioner for chlorine/chloramine, try a double
> dose next time.
>
> --
> Elaine T __
> http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
> rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com

Hi,
I don't know which part of the UK you are in. I'm in Reading. I know that
you are using the same water conditioner as me but without knowing where you
are located I don't know what the makeup of your water is. However, I think
that in terms of chemical additives we are much the same countrywide (with
the exception of floride - or at least that used to be the case).

I know I gave you some of the details of how I do the change - ie the 3 gall
buckets and the half a kettle worth....I add 1/2 a capful of the Aqua Plus
while the tap is running (which is probably a little too much according to
the bottle). I've never had any ammonia trace in my water - I tested it for
everything to give me a baseline for when I test the water in the tanks.

Gill

and BTW if we are using Hitch Hiker quotes tonight, after my commute home I
feel like Marvin after he spent 10,000 years "parking cars" ;-)

[yippie]

On Thu, 05 May 2005 05:38:25 GMT, Elaine T >
wrote:

>If you're sure
>you've got the right conditioner for chlorine/chloramine, try a double
>dose next time.
Why not use pure ascorbic acid? It will complex chlorine AND
chloramines. It DOES NOT produce the same potentially toxic reactions
as sodium theosulphate and is VERY cheap!

2 grams will treat 100G with 2ppm chlorine. At 10USD/lb it will cost
about $0.03/100G

[Elaine T]

yippie wrote:
> On Thu, 05 May 2005 05:38:25 GMT, Elaine T >
> wrote:
>
>
>>If you're sure
>>you've got the right conditioner for chlorine/chloramine, try a double
>>dose next time.
>
> Why not use pure ascorbic acid? It will complex chlorine AND
> chloramines. It DOES NOT produce the same potentially toxic reactions
> as sodium theosulphate and is VERY cheap!
>
> 2 grams will treat 100G with 2ppm chlorine. At 10USD/lb it will cost
> about $0.03/100G

That sounds quite simple and sensible for chlorine. However, I think it
would leave free ammonia after reducing chloramine, as thiosulfate does.
That's not satisfactory for large water changes in municipalities
where chloramines are used. Also, does it alter pH when you use it?

I also wonder why no aquarium companies have offered it, since ascorbic
acid (aka Vitamin C) is cheap and readily available. Why has
thiosulfate been the dechlorinator of choice for so long? There must be
at least a semi-scientific answer.

--
Elaine T __
http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com

[Dick]

On Wed, 04 May 2005 05:36:11 GMT, "Lyghthouse" > wrote:

>If I run a bucket of tapwater and add dechlorinator how long before I can
>add the water to my tank?
>
>Last night I changed about 3 UK gallons of water but this morning I notice
>that some of my danios gills are red. I only let the water stand for about
>five minutes before adding it to the tank as there were no other
>instructiions on the bottle except add the dechlorinator to the tap water.
>
>Regards
>
>Lyghthouse
>

As one that is blessed with tap water I can put directly into my
tanks, I want to ask what may seem a stupid question: are you sure
your tap water needs dechlorination?

What if you do daily changes of water keeping the percentage low so
the old water dilutes the new so that any chemicals are rendered
harmless?

I do not like playing with chemicals. One of my worst newbie
experience was caused by my meddling with the pH. I lost several fish
very quickly when the water went acid. Since I have never used
dechlorinators, I cannot comment on possible effects if they are
mishandled, but I can only imagine the logistics nightmare of changing
water thinking not only of controlling the temperature, but having to
worry about chemicals.

I don't remember anyone proposing frequent small water changes as an
alternative. What is wrong with that approach?

dick

[Ozdude]

"Elaine T" > wrote in message
. ..
> That sounds quite simple and sensible for chlorine. However, I think it
> would leave free ammonia after reducing chloramine, as thiosulfate does.
> That's not satisfactory for large water changes in municipalities where
> chloramines are used. Also, does it alter pH when you use it?

I'll chip in here if that's okay? - Ascorbic Acid would lower the pH I'm
betting, and thiosulfate doesn't.

>
> I also wonder why no aquarium companies have offered it, since ascorbic
> acid (aka Vitamin C) is cheap and readily available. Why has thiosulfate
> been the dechlorinator of choice for so long? There must be at least a
> semi-scientific answer.

Buffering from an aqaurists point of view. AA would lower the buffer and pH
and would probably take too much rebalancing with other chemicals and make
it less cost effective than Sodium thiosulfate which seems inert from the
acid point of view.

I'm not a scientist or biologist, so I'm just guessing.

Oz

--
My Aquatic web Blog is at http://members.optusnet.com.au/ivan.smith

[yippie]

On Fri, 06 May 2005 03:51:42 GMT, Elaine T >
wrote:

>yippie wrote:
>> On Thu, 05 May 2005 05:38:25 GMT, Elaine T >
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>If you're sure
>>>you've got the right conditioner for chlorine/chloramine, try a double
>>>dose next time.
>>
>> Why not use pure ascorbic acid? It will complex chlorine AND
>> chloramines. It DOES NOT produce the same potentially toxic reactions
>> as sodium theosulphate and is VERY cheap!
>>
>> 2 grams will treat 100G with 2ppm chlorine. At 10USD/lb it will cost
>> about $0.03/100G
>
>That sounds quite simple and sensible for chlorine. However, I think it
>would leave free ammonia after reducing chloramine, as thiosulfate does.
> That's not satisfactory for large water changes in municipalities
>where chloramines are used. Also, does it alter pH when you use it?
>
>I also wonder why no aquarium companies have offered it, since ascorbic
>acid (aka Vitamin C) is cheap and readily available. Why has
>thiosulfate been the dechlorinator of choice for so long? There must be
>at least a semi-scientific answer.


Thanks Elaine, I'm certain you are making a good point. I do have the
chemical descriptions of the reaction, I will post as soon as I find
them.

[yippie]

On Sat, 7 May 2005 01:23:53 +1000, "Ozdude" >
wrote:

>
>"Elaine T" > wrote in message
. ..
>> That sounds quite simple and sensible for chlorine. However, I think it
>> would leave free ammonia after reducing chloramine, as thiosulfate does.
>> That's not satisfactory for large water changes in municipalities where
>> chloramines are used. Also, does it alter pH when you use it?
>
>I'll chip in here if that's okay? - Ascorbic Acid would lower the pH I'm
>betting, and thiosulfate doesn't.

The amounts are so small with ascorbic acid, that even with good lab
equipment the change is practically imperceptible.
>
>>
>> I also wonder why no aquarium companies have offered it, since ascorbic
>> acid (aka Vitamin C) is cheap and readily available. Why has thiosulfate
>> been the dechlorinator of choice for so long? There must be at least a
>> semi-scientific answer.
>
>Buffering from an aqaurists point of view. AA would lower the buffer and pH
>and would probably take too much rebalancing with other chemicals and make
>it less cost effective than Sodium thiosulfate which seems inert from the
>acid point of view.
>
>I'm not a scientist or biologist, so I'm just guessing.
>
>Oz

[David C. Stone]

In article >, yippie
> wrote:

> On Sat, 7 May 2005 01:23:53 +1000, "Ozdude" >
> wrote:
>
> >
> >"Elaine T" > wrote in message
> . ..
> >> That sounds quite simple and sensible for chlorine. However, I think it
> >> would leave free ammonia after reducing chloramine, as thiosulfate does.
> >> That's not satisfactory for large water changes in municipalities where
> >> chloramines are used. Also, does it alter pH when you use it?
> >
> >I'll chip in here if that's okay? - Ascorbic Acid would lower the pH I'm
> >betting, and thiosulfate doesn't.
>
> The amounts are so small with ascorbic acid, that even with good lab
> equipment the change is practically imperceptible.
> >
> >>
> >> I also wonder why no aquarium companies have offered it, since ascorbic
> >> acid (aka Vitamin C) is cheap and readily available. Why has thiosulfate
> >> been the dechlorinator of choice for so long? There must be at least a
> >> semi-scientific answer.
> >
> >Buffering from an aqaurists point of view. AA would lower the buffer and pH
> >and would probably take too much rebalancing with other chemicals and make
> >it less cost effective than Sodium thiosulfate which seems inert from the
> >acid point of view.

It would shift the buffering capacity by virtue of contributing at a
different pH threshold, but only if added in amounts that are
significant relative to the carbonate/bicarbonate and phosphate levels.