Filter Size??

[Paul]

Hi, was wondering if someone could tell me if I did the right thing here. I
built a Biofilter for my pond.It is 12X7X2. The one I built is 9gal.
basically a square Rubbermaid box. The pump (1200gph) pumps into the "top"
of box through an 18W UV light, then goes into filter through a 1 1/4" thick
Med. filter pad. It works its way down through the filter media. The media
is a combination of Bio Ceramic Barrels,Two bags of Lava Rocks crushed into
smaller sizes and regular Supra media, then finally exits out the bottom
into pond. Will this design keep water ok? Thanks..............

[George]

"Paul" > wrote in message
...
> Hi, was wondering if someone could tell me if I did the right thing here. I
> built a Biofilter for my pond.It is 12X7X2. The one I built is 9gal.
> basically a square Rubbermaid box. The pump (1200gph) pumps into the "top" of
> box through an 18W UV light, then goes into filter through a 1 1/4" thick Med.
> filter pad. It works its way down through the filter media. The media is a
> combination of Bio Ceramic Barrels,Two bags of Lava Rocks crushed into smaller
> sizes and regular Supra media, then finally exits out the bottom into pond.
> Will this design keep water ok? Thanks..............

The efficiency of any biofilter depends mostly on the bioload in the pond. I
suspect that if your bioload is low to moderate, it should work well for you.
If it is high, you may want to attach an additional cell to the existing one.
Having said that, I wouldn't go through the trouble until you've let this one
run long enough to see if it is going to handle the load. If it does, then
you're done. If not, think about adding another cell. The wonderful thing
about biofilters if they are constructed properly is that you can always add
more cells to the flow (if you have the room).

[Paul]

Thanks, but what do mean by add a "CELL". I have approx 20 goldfish in size
from 3" to 6" and three KOI sizes from 3" to 8".
"George" > wrote in message
news:XrRje.25397$WG.8217@attbi_s22...
>
> "Paul" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Hi, was wondering if someone could tell me if I did the right thing here.
>> I built a Biofilter for my pond.It is 12X7X2. The one I built is 9gal.
>> basically a square Rubbermaid box. The pump (1200gph) pumps into the
>> "top" of box through an 18W UV light, then goes into filter through a 1
>> 1/4" thick Med. filter pad. It works its way down through the filter
>> media. The media is a combination of Bio Ceramic Barrels,Two bags of Lava
>> Rocks crushed into smaller sizes and regular Supra media, then finally
>> exits out the bottom into pond. Will this design keep water ok?
>> Thanks..............
>
> The efficiency of any biofilter depends mostly on the bioload in the pond.
> I suspect that if your bioload is low to moderate, it should work well for
> you. If it is high, you may want to attach an additional cell to the
> existing one. Having said that, I wouldn't go through the trouble until
> you've let this one run long enough to see if it is going to handle the
> load. If it does, then you're done. If not, think about adding another
> cell. The wonderful thing about biofilters if they are constructed
> properly is that you can always add more cells to the flow (if you have
> the room).
>

[Gale Pearce]

> Hi, was wondering if someone could tell me if I did the right thing here.
I
> built a Biofilter for my pond.It is 12X7X2. The one I built is 9gal.
> basically a square Rubbermaid box. The pump (1200gph) pumps into the "top"
> of box through an 18W UV light, then goes into filter through a 1 1/4"
thick
> Med. filter pad. It works its way down through the filter media. The media
Hi Paul - IMHO, you have the right idea , but the filter is a bit small and
will need cleaning more often than I would like - My pond is close to the
same size as yours with ~ 40 fish , but I use a 45 gal barrel with a 1200
gal pump (upflow design) and I need to "backflush" it 2 - 3 times a season
when it loads up (no UV, but the UV only helps with algae bloom anyway and I
never have it when my filter is running) Also 1200 gal/hr is a lot for a 9
gal filter to work properly. You will know how it works when you test the
water, or to be safer go to a larger container and add media to it as you
need it (or get tired of cleaning it so often)
Gale :~)

[~ jan JJsPond.us]

>On Sat, 21 May 2005 21:54:00 -0400, "Paul" > wrote:

>Thanks, but what do mean by add a "CELL". I have approx 20 goldfish in size
>from 3" to 6" and three KOI sizes from 3" to 8". ~ 1200 gallon pond, 9 gallon filter.

IMO. That filter isn't going to do it. You're going to be cleaning it all
the time and the bio-bugs are going to be washed away.

I have 1500 gallon pond(s) w/7 koi and about 20 baby koi 3-4" my filter is
150 gallons. Can be seen at website below. ~ jan


See my ponds and filter design:
www.jjspond.us

~Keep 'em Wet!~
Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a
To e-mail see website

[George]

"Paul" > wrote in message
...
> Thanks, but what do mean by add a "CELL". I have approx 20 goldfish in size
> from 3" to 6" and three KOI sizes from 3" to 8".

Those goldfish will reproduce fairly rapidly and the koi will get very large in
a few years. In the next two years you will likely need a larger filter than
what you currently have made. What I mean by a cell is that you have a
rubbermaid box that you have converted to a biofilter. That is what I call a
cell. You can add another "cell" which will increase the capacity of the filter
by making another one and connecting it to the existing one or build a larger
one. But eventually, your load will become to high and you'll have to "cull the
herd".

> "George" > wrote in message
> news:XrRje.25397$WG.8217@attbi_s22...
>>
>> "Paul" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> Hi, was wondering if someone could tell me if I did the right thing here. I
>>> built a Biofilter for my pond.It is 12X7X2. The one I built is 9gal.
>>> basically a square Rubbermaid box. The pump (1200gph) pumps into the "top"
>>> of box through an 18W UV light, then goes into filter through a 1 1/4" thick
>>> Med. filter pad. It works its way down through the filter media. The media
>>> is a combination of Bio Ceramic Barrels,Two bags of Lava Rocks crushed into
>>> smaller sizes and regular Supra media, then finally exits out the bottom
>>> into pond. Will this design keep water ok? Thanks..............
>>
>> The efficiency of any biofilter depends mostly on the bioload in the pond. I
>> suspect that if your bioload is low to moderate, it should work well for you.
>> If it is high, you may want to attach an additional cell to the existing one.
>> Having said that, I wouldn't go through the trouble until you've let this one
>> run long enough to see if it is going to handle the load. If it does, then
>> you're done. If not, think about adding another cell. The wonderful thing
>> about biofilters if they are constructed properly is that you can always add
>> more cells to the flow (if you have the room).
>>
>
>

[George]

"Gale Pearce" > wrote in message
...
>
>
>> Hi, was wondering if someone could tell me if I did the right thing here.
> I
>> built a Biofilter for my pond.It is 12X7X2. The one I built is 9gal.
>> basically a square Rubbermaid box. The pump (1200gph) pumps into the "top"
>> of box through an 18W UV light, then goes into filter through a 1 1/4"
> thick
>> Med. filter pad. It works its way down through the filter media. The media
> Hi Paul - IMHO, you have the right idea , but the filter is a bit small and
> will need cleaning more often than I would like - My pond is close to the
> same size as yours with ~ 40 fish , but I use a 45 gal barrel with a 1200
> gal pump (upflow design) and I need to "backflush" it 2 - 3 times a season
> when it loads up (no UV, but the UV only helps with algae bloom anyway and I
> never have it when my filter is running) Also 1200 gal/hr is a lot for a 9
> gal filter to work properly. You will know how it works when you test the
> water, or to be safer go to a larger container and add media to it as you
> need it (or get tired of cleaning it so often)
> Gale :~)

Hi Gale:

If you install a pre-filter in front of your main filter, you won't have to
flush the filter at all or at least only ocassionaly (which is even better,
because the microbes in the main filter will remain undisturbed, will grow more
profusely in the filter media, and will clean the water more efficiently). Then
every time you notice that your water flow out of the main filter is retarded a
little (usually about every 3-4 weeks on average), simply pull the pre-filter
out and clean it Here is a link to a page which describes my filter set up
(which is similar to yours in function), and shows the details of the
pre-filter. The trick is to prevent detritis from building up in the main
filter, and only allow pre-filtered water to flow through the main filter. That
way, you are reducing the nutrient load to a level the main filter can quickly
digest, and won't suck up particles into it that cause it to clog.

http://home.insightbb.com/~jryates/filter.htm

Scroll down until you see the pre-filter. I use a commercial pre-filter, but
you can easily make your own.

Enjoy.

George

[Gale Pearce]

> every time you notice that your water flow out of the main filter is
retarded a
> little (usually about every 3-4 weeks on average), simply pull the
pre-filter
> out and clean it Here is a link to a page which describes my filter set
up
> (which is similar to yours in function), and shows the details of the
> pre-filter. The trick is to prevent detritis from building up in the main
> filter, and only allow pre-filtered water to flow through the main filter.
That
> way, you are reducing the nutrient load to a level the main filter can
quickly
> digest, and won't suck up particles into it that cause it to clog.
>
> http://home.insightbb.com/~jryates/filter.htm
>
> Scroll down until you see the pre-filter. I use a commercial pre-filter,
but
> you can easily make your own.

Hi George - I find it interesting you have your converted pool filter
submerged in your pond, I had always assumed they would be used as an
out-of-pond filter
Right now I have my pump in a 1/4" mesh basket to hold back the leaves
etc, but I still have to pull the pump every 3 - 4 weeks to keep the intake
clean of the smaller vegetation pieces. I intend to put in a Savio skimmer
which will do what your prefilter does as well as skim the surface of the
pond and keep the pond floor cleaner
Gale :~)

[Paul]

Thanks George, i understand now. I think i will have to make another.
"George" > wrote in message
news:gvUje.26827$796.6441@attbi_s21...
>
> "Paul" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Thanks, but what do mean by add a "CELL". I have approx 20 goldfish in
>> size from 3" to 6" and three KOI sizes from 3" to 8".
>
> Those goldfish will reproduce fairly rapidly and the koi will get very
> large in a few years. In the next two years you will likely need a larger
> filter than what you currently have made. What I mean by a cell is that
> you have a rubbermaid box that you have converted to a biofilter. That is
> what I call a cell. You can add another "cell" which will increase the
> capacity of the filter by making another one and connecting it to the
> existing one or build a larger one. But eventually, your load will become
> to high and you'll have to "cull the herd".
>
>> "George" > wrote in message
>> news:XrRje.25397$WG.8217@attbi_s22...
>>>
>>> "Paul" > wrote in message
>>> ...
>>>> Hi, was wondering if someone could tell me if I did the right thing
>>>> here. I built a Biofilter for my pond.It is 12X7X2. The one I built is
>>>> 9gal. basically a square Rubbermaid box. The pump (1200gph) pumps into
>>>> the "top" of box through an 18W UV light, then goes into filter through
>>>> a 1 1/4" thick Med. filter pad. It works its way down through the
>>>> filter media. The media is a combination of Bio Ceramic Barrels,Two
>>>> bags of Lava Rocks crushed into smaller sizes and regular Supra media,
>>>> then finally exits out the bottom into pond. Will this design keep
>>>> water ok? Thanks..............
>>>
>>> The efficiency of any biofilter depends mostly on the bioload in the
>>> pond. I suspect that if your bioload is low to moderate, it should work
>>> well for you. If it is high, you may want to attach an additional cell
>>> to the existing one. Having said that, I wouldn't go through the trouble
>>> until you've let this one run long enough to see if it is going to
>>> handle the load. If it does, then you're done. If not, think about
>>> adding another cell. The wonderful thing about biofilters if they are
>>> constructed properly is that you can always add more cells to the flow
>>> (if you have the room).
>>>
>>
>>
>
>

[Paul]

Thanks. I've been reading and a lot of articles say not to clean them
anymore than you have to.Does that make sense?
"Gale Pearce" > wrote in message
...
>
>
>> Hi, was wondering if someone could tell me if I did the right thing here.
> I
>> built a Biofilter for my pond.It is 12X7X2. The one I built is 9gal.
>> basically a square Rubbermaid box. The pump (1200gph) pumps into the
>> "top"
>> of box through an 18W UV light, then goes into filter through a 1 1/4"
> thick
>> Med. filter pad. It works its way down through the filter media. The
>> media
> Hi Paul - IMHO, you have the right idea , but the filter is a bit small
> and
> will need cleaning more often than I would like - My pond is close to the
> same size as yours with ~ 40 fish , but I use a 45 gal barrel with a 1200
> gal pump (upflow design) and I need to "backflush" it 2 - 3 times a season
> when it loads up (no UV, but the UV only helps with algae bloom anyway and
> I
> never have it when my filter is running) Also 1200 gal/hr is a lot for a 9
> gal filter to work properly. You will know how it works when you test the
> water, or to be safer go to a larger container and add media to it as you
> need it (or get tired of cleaning it so often)
> Gale :~)
>
>

[Gale Pearce]

"Paul" > wrote in message
...
> Thanks. I've been reading and a lot of articles say not to clean them
> anymore than you have to.Does that make sense?

Yeah, you need the bacteria build-up in the filter to balance your pond
water biologically - once that is achieved you will have clear water as the
algae bloom has nothing to live on and starves. Ergo when you clean the
media in your filter, you temporarily slow down the biological action in
your filter. I use scotch brite type pads (5 cu ft in a 45 gal barrel) and I
use chlorinated tap water to back flush during the season and to clean the
media for winter storage and have never had a problem even though you keep
reading you can't use tap water for this. I think it is because the pads are
fairly dense and you can't get them completely clean and they get back up to
speed quickly
Gale :~)

[Paul]

You use these pads and and cut them to however size you want and this is
your bio-media? Good idea.
"Gale Pearce" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Paul" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Thanks. I've been reading and a lot of articles say not to clean them
>> anymore than you have to.Does that make sense?
>
> Yeah, you need the bacteria build-up in the filter to balance your pond
> water biologically - once that is achieved you will have clear water as
> the
> algae bloom has nothing to live on and starves. Ergo when you clean the
> media in your filter, you temporarily slow down the biological action in
> your filter. I use scotch brite type pads (5 cu ft in a 45 gal barrel) and
> I
> use chlorinated tap water to back flush during the season and to clean the
> media for winter storage and have never had a problem even though you keep
> reading you can't use tap water for this. I think it is because the pads
> are
> fairly dense and you can't get them completely clean and they get back up
> to
> speed quickly
> Gale :~)
>
>

[George]

"Gale Pearce" > wrote in message
...
>
>> every time you notice that your water flow out of the main filter is
> retarded a
>> little (usually about every 3-4 weeks on average), simply pull the
> pre-filter
>> out and clean it Here is a link to a page which describes my filter set
> up
>> (which is similar to yours in function), and shows the details of the
>> pre-filter. The trick is to prevent detritis from building up in the main
>> filter, and only allow pre-filtered water to flow through the main filter.
> That
>> way, you are reducing the nutrient load to a level the main filter can
> quickly
>> digest, and won't suck up particles into it that cause it to clog.
>>
>> http://home.insightbb.com/~jryates/filter.htm
>>
>> Scroll down until you see the pre-filter. I use a commercial pre-filter,
> but
>> you can easily make your own.
>
> Hi George - I find it interesting you have your converted pool filter
> submerged in your pond, I had always assumed they would be used as an
> out-of-pond filter

It was either that, or redesign the whole thing. Not an option for me because I
don't like the idea of puncturing my liner to run a hose/pipe through it to the
filter. And with the rocks around it, it provides a haven for other critters,
especially fry. And since it really doesn't matter if the filter is in the pond
or outside of it from a filtration standpoint, it was the easier solution.

[Gale Pearce]

> You use these pads and and cut them to however size you want and this is
> your bio-media? Good idea.

Hi Paul - www.grassrootsnursery.com in Michigan sells the pads in 1 cu ft
bags for about $18 - this would be cheaper than buying them in a store
Gale :~)

[Paul]

I don't get this. You see on the shelves in the stores these small boxes
that are capable of filtering a 1,000 gal. pond and people are telling me i
have to build a 50 gal. filter to do the same job. I'm
confused................................
"Gale Pearce" > wrote in message
...
>
>> You use these pads and and cut them to however size you want and this is
>> your bio-media? Good idea.
>
> Hi Paul - www.grassrootsnursery.com in Michigan sells the pads in 1 cu ft
> bags for about $18 - this would be cheaper than buying them in a store
> Gale :~)
>
>

[~ janj JJsPond.us]

>On Wed, 25 May 2005 23:19:18 -0400, "Paul" > wrote:

>I don't get this. You see on the shelves in the stores these small boxes
>that are capable of filtering a 1,000 gal. pond and people are telling me i
>have to build a 50 gal. filter to do the same job. I'm
>confused................................

It's like gas mileage on a car, best conditions, strip model, tail wind, 1
driver, no luggage. Those small filters on the shelf can manage a 1,000
gallon pond, with few fish, lots of plants, shade, etc. What we've found on
rec.ponds, is take the number they give you and divide by 2. So if they
claim 1,000 gallons, it will do 500 gallons. The smaller the filter the
more often you will clean it, who wants to waste time doing that? ~ jan


See my ponds and filter design:
www.jjspond.us

~Keep 'em Wet!~
Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a
To e-mail see website

[Derek Broughton]

Paul wrote:

> I don't get this. You see on the shelves in the stores these small boxes
> that are capable of filtering a 1,000 gal. pond and people are telling me
> i have to build a 50 gal. filter to do the same job. I'm
> confused................................

What you see in the stores are small boxes that makers _claim_ will filter a
1,000 gallon pond. They're full of S***. And pretty soon, that little
filter box will be too. I guess they work if you're prepared to clean out
the filter material every couple of days (and I bet they expect you to use
disposable materials, rather than cleaning it).

The ones you're being advised to build will require a great deal less
maintenance.
--
derek

[Gale Pearce]

>
> > I don't get this. You see on the shelves in the stores these small boxes
> > that are capable of filtering a 1,000 gal. pond and people are telling
me
> > i have to build a 50 gal. filter to do the same job. I'm
> > confused................................
>
> What you see in the stores are small boxes that makers _claim_ will filter
a
> 1,000 gallon pond. They're full of S***. And pretty soon, that little
> filter box will be too. I guess they work if you're prepared to clean out
> the filter material every couple of days (and I bet they expect you to use
> disposable materials, rather than cleaning it).
>
> The ones you're being advised to build will require a great deal less
> maintenance.

Couldn't have said it better myself, Derek & Jan :~)))))))))))))))))))))0
Gale :~)

[Courageous]

>I don't get this. You see on the shelves in the stores these small boxes
>that are capable of filtering a 1,000 gal. pond and people are telling me i
>have to build a 50 gal. filter to do the same job. I'm
>confused................................

Err. Say what job you want to do, with what fish and plants, and so forth.

"Natural approach" is big around here. There's a thing called a "veggie
filter" which is basically a big tank filled up with the most invasive,
fastest growing water weeds one can find (it's no coincidence that many
of the preferred species are on the 100 Most Invasive Species list).

Anyway, the plants "eat" all the excess biomatter.

If you want to read a long history about all this, goto http://groups.google.com,
click on Advanced Search, then put rec.ponds in the groups list, and type
"veggie filter".

For another alternative, goto regular google and type "bog filter" and
read the first page or two of relevant hits.

This one explains it pretty well, though:

http://www.pondsolutions.com/bog_filter.htm

The beauty of both the veggie and bog filter is that they are hidden;
they appear to be natural elements of the pond.

You don't need to buy any premade product at all, by the way. Plain
old PVC will do perfectly well. I think hacking up something like the
clean out vault picture will probably make you happy a few years from
now, though. :)

C//

[Paul]

Ok, I'm getting the picture..............Thanks
"~ janj JJsPond.us" > wrote in message
...
> >On Wed, 25 May 2005 23:19:18 -0400, "Paul" > wrote:
>
>>I don't get this. You see on the shelves in the stores these small boxes
>>that are capable of filtering a 1,000 gal. pond and people are telling me
>>i
>>have to build a 50 gal. filter to do the same job. I'm
>>confused................................
>
> It's like gas mileage on a car, best conditions, strip model, tail wind, 1
> driver, no luggage. Those small filters on the shelf can manage a 1,000
> gallon pond, with few fish, lots of plants, shade, etc. What we've found
> on
> rec.ponds, is take the number they give you and divide by 2. So if they
> claim 1,000 gallons, it will do 500 gallons. The smaller the filter the
> more often you will clean it, who wants to waste time doing that? ~ jan
>
>
> See my ponds and filter design:
> www.jjspond.us
>
> ~Keep 'em Wet!~
> Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a
> To e-mail see website

[Paul]

I was thinking of using a 30gal tall rubbermaid container and install a
chamber for brushes as first stage, then have it spill over to two more
stages. The second would be a medium course padding then it will trickle
down below to bio-media and exit back to pond. I should have mentioned a UV
light as the very first stage.Everything else mentioned follows in order.
Would this give enough filtration???? Thanks...............Paul
"Courageous" > wrote in message
...
>
>>I don't get this. You see on the shelves in the stores these small boxes
>>that are capable of filtering a 1,000 gal. pond and people are telling me
>>i
>>have to build a 50 gal. filter to do the same job. I'm
>>confused................................
>
> Err. Say what job you want to do, with what fish and plants, and so forth.
>
> "Natural approach" is big around here. There's a thing called a "veggie
> filter" which is basically a big tank filled up with the most invasive,
> fastest growing water weeds one can find (it's no coincidence that many
> of the preferred species are on the 100 Most Invasive Species list).
>
> Anyway, the plants "eat" all the excess biomatter.
>
> If you want to read a long history about all this, goto
> http://groups.google.com,
> click on Advanced Search, then put rec.ponds in the groups list, and type
> "veggie filter".
>
> For another alternative, goto regular google and type "bog filter" and
> read the first page or two of relevant hits.
>
> This one explains it pretty well, though:
>
> http://www.pondsolutions.com/bog_filter.htm
>
> The beauty of both the veggie and bog filter is that they are hidden;
> they appear to be natural elements of the pond.
>
> You don't need to buy any premade product at all, by the way. Plain
> old PVC will do perfectly well. I think hacking up something like the
> clean out vault picture will probably make you happy a few years from
> now, though. :)
>
> C//
>

[~ janj JJsPond.us]

>On Sun, 29 May 2005 13:00:24 -0400, "Paul" > wrote:

>I was thinking of using a 30gal tall rubbermaid container and install a
>chamber for brushes as first stage, then have it spill over to two more
>stages. The second would be a medium course padding then it will trickle
>down below to bio-media and exit back to pond. I should have mentioned a UV
>light as the very first stage.Everything else mentioned follows in order.
>Would this give enough filtration???? Thanks...............Paul

How big is the pond, how many fish and type(s), how many plants? 30 gallons
will do an average 300 gallon pond. Average meaning: a few too many
goldfish, and plants.

I filter my 1,000 gallon Lily pond with a 40 gallon planter, but it is
heavily planted w/over a dozen lilies, 2 lotus, 4 Iris, Lizard Tail, and
anacharis. No fish currently, a gazillion tadpoles. Water is clear, but the
pH took off again, and thus so has the string algae. But I can see the
bottom, so a little filter with a small load can manage.

If this rubber maid isn't normally used to contain water (like their stock
tanks) it will bow out and crack if not install in the ground for support.
~ jan

See my Lily Pond:
www.jjspond.us

~Keep 'em Wet!~
Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a
To e-mail see website

[Paul]

Thanks, didn't think of that, bowing. I have one more question. Does it
matter if the Bio-media is stacked high, like 5 to inches thick? or spread
out more and only 2 to 3 inches thick/high in a container.Which would build
more beneficial bacteria. Thanks
"~ janj JJsPond.us" > wrote in message
...
> >On Sun, 29 May 2005 13:00:24 -0400, "Paul" > wrote:
>
>>I was thinking of using a 30gal tall rubbermaid container and install a
>>chamber for brushes as first stage, then have it spill over to two more
>>stages. The second would be a medium course padding then it will trickle
>>down below to bio-media and exit back to pond. I should have mentioned a
>>UV
>>light as the very first stage.Everything else mentioned follows in order.
>>Would this give enough filtration???? Thanks...............Paul
>
> How big is the pond, how many fish and type(s), how many plants? 30
> gallons
> will do an average 300 gallon pond. Average meaning: a few too many
> goldfish, and plants.
>
> I filter my 1,000 gallon Lily pond with a 40 gallon planter, but it is
> heavily planted w/over a dozen lilies, 2 lotus, 4 Iris, Lizard Tail, and
> anacharis. No fish currently, a gazillion tadpoles. Water is clear, but
> the
> pH took off again, and thus so has the string algae. But I can see the
> bottom, so a little filter with a small load can manage.
>
> If this rubber maid isn't normally used to contain water (like their stock
> tanks) it will bow out and crack if not install in the ground for support.
> ~ jan
>
> See my Lily Pond:
> www.jjspond.us
>
> ~Keep 'em Wet!~
> Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a
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[~ janj JJsPond.us]

>On Sun, 29 May 2005 17:11:03 -0400, "Paul" > wrote:

>Thanks, didn't think of that, bowing. I have one more question. Does it
>matter if the Bio-media is stacked high, like 5 to inches thick? or spread
>out more and only 2 to 3 inches thick/high in a container.Which would build
>more beneficial bacteria. Thanks

Which would build more beneficial bacteria? The limitation is based on
surface area for it to cling to, food & air. I have 8 one inch sheets
horizontal flow, space between them would be just that, space. ;) ~ jan

~Power to the Porg, Flow On!~