Algae problem

[KerplunKuK]

I live in Cambridgeshire in the UK and I have a 5m x 5m x 1m pond. The
water is perfectly clear and clean, and I have varied plants and oxygenating
weed.
The problem I am having is an excess of green slimy weed. It appears on a
daily basis and gets everywhere. I have tried removing all of it but I
can't keep up.
The pond is stocked with mostly goldfish and koi and has two aquatic
turtles. The pond has not full sunlight but is not shaded.

Thanks for any help.

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[kathy]

Hi Kerplunk,

All algae thrives on sun, fresh water, fish waste, fertilized run off,
rotting plants and blown in dirt. In new ponds and spring ponds algae
is always the first thing to start growing.

The best defense against algae is to have lots of plants, plants and
more plants to compete for the nutrients, few fish, not overfeeding
those fish, some shade and cleaning up debris. And since you have
turtles they also add to the bioload. Can you reduce
your goldfish population?
I have four turtles in 3,000 US gallons and that will be my next
step, cut down on the rampagingly reproducing goldfish!


kathy :-) www.blogfromthebog.com
this week ~ a snake story

Pond 101 page for new pond keepers ~
http://hometown.aol.com/ka30p/myhomepage/garden.html

[2Rowdy]

Message >,
by author KerplunKuK aka >
inspired me,
> I live in Cambridgeshire in the UK and I have a 5m x 5m x 1m pond.
> The water is perfectly clear and clean, and I have varied plants
> and oxygenating weed.
> The problem I am having is an excess of green slimy weed. It
> appears on a daily basis and gets everywhere. I have tried
> removing all of it but I can't keep up.
> The pond is stocked with mostly goldfish and koi and has two aquatic
> turtles. The pond has not full sunlight but is not shaded.
>
> Thanks for any help.

You feed your fish more than the plants can handle.
There should be a balance between fishfood and plants. If it isn't in
balance you get the green soup, i.e plants that fill the gap.

Refresh the pond, 10% each week, drain from the bottom if possible.
Use an airbubble pump during filling of the fresh water.
That doesn't bring the balance back.

Install a good filter, redude the number of fish or feed them less.
Feeding tip: 5 minutes max a day and they should eat it all in that
time.
The fish are well capable to survive a week without food.
--
d:Johan; Certifiable me
Newsgroups Are used to spread virusses.
Did your newsreader post that virus?

[2Rowdy]

Message et>,
by author 2Rowdy aka > inspired me,

> Refresh the pond, 10% each week, drain from the bottom if possible.
> Use an airbubble pump during filling of the fresh water.

During a month. That should bring the excess of plantfood to an
acceptable level.
--
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[18 lines]

[Press ENTER to retrieve this message.]
[Press M to mark this message for later retrieval.]

[KerplunKuK]

2Rowdy scribbled :

> You feed your fish more than the plants can handle.
> There should be a balance between fishfood and plants. If it isn't in
> balance you get the green soup, i.e plants that fill the gap.
>
> Refresh the pond, 10% each week, drain from the bottom if possible.
> Use an airbubble pump during filling of the fresh water.
> That doesn't bring the balance back.
>
> Install a good filter, redude the number of fish or feed them less.
> Feeding tip: 5 minutes max a day and they should eat it all in that
> time.
> The fish are well capable to survive a week without food.


I have a filter and pump that can handle twice the volume of my pond. My
fish always eat everything I feed them, so I think I will have to insert
more plants and do water changes. What is an airbubble pump?

Thanks
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[George]

"KerplunKuK" > wrote in message
...
> 2Rowdy scribbled :
>
>> You feed your fish more than the plants can handle.
>> There should be a balance between fishfood and plants. If it isn't in
>> balance you get the green soup, i.e plants that fill the gap.
>>
>> Refresh the pond, 10% each week, drain from the bottom if possible.
>> Use an airbubble pump during filling of the fresh water.
>> That doesn't bring the balance back.
>>
>> Install a good filter, redude the number of fish or feed them less.
>> Feeding tip: 5 minutes max a day and they should eat it all in that
>> time.
>> The fish are well capable to survive a week without food.
>
>
> I have a filter and pump that can handle twice the volume of my pond. My
> fish always eat everything I feed them, so I think I will have to insert
> more plants and do water changes. What is an airbubble pump?
>
> Thanks

If you have a pump and are churning up the surface (a water fall will do
this), you don't need an air pump. It will do nothing for your algae
problem, and may actually make it worse. You need more plants, and I would
also add a product like aquazyme. It contains bacteria and enzymes that
help digest the nutrients in your water, and so compete directly with the
algae for food. The bacteria is beneficial to the pond. It takes about a
month for it to become firmly established, and even then, it doesn't hurt
to continue to treat the water with this product to ensure that the
bacgteria remain established in the pond. It will go a long way towards
starving out the algae, and will digest it as it dies off. This product
also helps to prevent buildup of black sludge and any leaves at the bottom
of your pond, which is also a source of unwanted nutrients. Do note,
however, that you will likely always has some amount of algae in your pond.
This is not a bad thing, and if you cut back a little on feeding your
goldfish, they will take to munching on it like mine do.

[2Rowdy]

Message >,
by author KerplunKuK aka >
inspired me,
> 2Rowdy scribbled :
>
>> You feed your fish more than the plants can handle.
>> There should be a balance between fishfood and plants. If it isn't
>> in balance you get the green soup, i.e plants that fill the gap.
>>
>> Refresh the pond, 10% each week, drain from the bottom if possible.
>> Use an airbubble pump during filling of the fresh water.
>> That doesn't bring the balance back.
>>
>> Install a good filter, redude the number of fish or feed them less.
>> Feeding tip: 5 minutes max a day and they should eat it all in that
>> time.
>> The fish are well capable to survive a week without food.
>
>
> I have a filter and pump that can handle twice the volume of my
> pond.

Big filter is good. But many people clean the filter to often. The
filter shouldn't filter, it should provide a good place for bacteria
to do their work in converting fish stuff into plantfood.

> My fish always eat everything I feed them, so I think I will
> have to insert more plants and do water changes. What is an
> airbubble pump?

An air pump with a bubble stone on the end. Often tap water contains
gasses that is bad for fish. The bubbles expel those gasses.
--
d:Johan; Certifiable me

IHUMFA

[George]

"2Rowdy" > wrote in message
et...
> Message >,
> by author KerplunKuK aka >
> inspired me,
>> 2Rowdy scribbled :
>>
>>> You feed your fish more than the plants can handle.
>>> There should be a balance between fishfood and plants. If it isn't
>>> in balance you get the green soup, i.e plants that fill the gap.
>>>
>>> Refresh the pond, 10% each week, drain from the bottom if possible.
>>> Use an airbubble pump during filling of the fresh water.
>>> That doesn't bring the balance back.
>>>
>>> Install a good filter, redude the number of fish or feed them less.
>>> Feeding tip: 5 minutes max a day and they should eat it all in that
>>> time.
>>> The fish are well capable to survive a week without food.
>>
>>
>> I have a filter and pump that can handle twice the volume of my
>> pond.
>
> Big filter is good. But many people clean the filter to often. The
> filter shouldn't filter, it should provide a good place for bacteria
> to do their work in converting fish stuff into plantfood.
>
>> My fish always eat everything I feed them, so I think I will
>> have to insert more plants and do water changes. What is an
>> airbubble pump?
>
> An air pump with a bubble stone on the end. Often tap water contains
> gasses that is bad for fish. The bubbles expel those gasses.
> --
> d:Johan; Certifiable me
>
> IHUMFA

If you add fresh tap water with a garden hose with a nozzle attachment,
nearly all of any harmful gases (even some of the chlorine - I recommend
using stress coat at this staqge) will escape almost immediately. As long
as the pump inlet is pumping water from the bottom of the pond and
returning it to the surface, and creating ripples on the surface, the water
will be constantly turned over and will outgas and pick up oxygen. I know
that you must be thinking about carbon dioxide buildup, but that is not
usually a problem in most ponds that have adequate circulation. The
problem here is likely one of too high a nutrient load (in the case of an
algae bloom, the culprit is usually high nitrate concentration, but can
also be phosphates). A bubbler will do nothing to get rid of nitrates,
because of the high partial pressure of nitrogen in the atmosphere, and so
the equalibrium pressure of nitrogen is high. It will also do nothing to
get rid of phosphates. If the nitrate level is high, adding O2 with a
bubler can actually make the algae problem worse (algae using up carbon
dioxide and release O2 in the day, but the process is reversed at night, so
then it releases CO2 and uses O2). Adding plants and beneficial bacteria
to the pond will increase competition with the algae, and will reduce the
nutrient levels enough starve out the algae. And as the algae dies, the
bacteria will digest it and prevent the nitrates from building back up to
problematic levels. Unless the levels are dangerously high, I never
recommend partial water changes to solve this problem because that tends to
knock the pond out of chemical equilibrium. The key to the solution to
this problem is patience. Perhaps if the person posting his question could
post his water parameters (pH, ammmonia, nitrites, nitrates, general
hardness), we could give him more specific information.

[KerplunKuK]

George scribbled :
Perhaps if the person posting his question could post his water parameters
(pH, ammmonia, nitrites, nitrates, general hardness), we could give him more
specific
information.

Will do that tomorrow and post the results. Thanks for all the advoce so
far.
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[George]

"KerplunKuK" > wrote in message
...
> George scribbled :
> Perhaps if the person posting his question could post his water
> parameters
> (pH, ammmonia, nitrites, nitrates, general hardness), we could give him
> more
> specific
> information.
>
> Will do that tomorrow and post the results. Thanks for all the advoce so
> far.
> --
> Remove [dot] to reply
> Gamertag: Devil Ray UK
> Games: Flat Out, Worms, Links 04, RS3BA, Splinter Cell : CT, Top Spin,
> Halo 2, GR2, PGR 2, Doom 3, Rallisport 2, Forza, NBA Inside Drive, NFL
> Fever, Amped 2, Pariah, NHL Rivals
>

Glad to help. Got any pics of your pond? Don't post them here, but if you
can post a link, we like pond pictures when we can get them. Also, as for
using a bubbler, pH becomes a problem when it changes rapidly and as the
water heats up in summer. Koi and goldfish do best at 7.5 (neutral) but
will tolerate 0.75 plus or minus this as long as it is what they are used
to. High pH (alkaline) conditions makes ammonia more toxic. The tendency of
some koi shows to freely bubble their vats blows off CO2 and raises pH. At
that point, even minor increases in ammonia levels can cause big problems
with the fish. More of a problem, especially in bare liner ponds with high
fish loads, is loss of alkalinity. On the other hand, warm summer waters
hold less oxygen than cold winter water. Ironically, most people add a
bubbler in the winter to keep a hole open in the ice, and remove the
bubbler in the summer. I am of the opinion that as long as your pond is
not overstocked, adequate circulation and breaking up the surface with a
waterfall splash will provide adequate oxygen for your fish in the summer
without adversely affecting the pH. I have limestone rock in my pond to act
as a buffer, and as part of the waterfall. It helps keep the pH and
alkalinity stable, and slowly leaches trace elements into the water
(depending on the type of limestone). But, it is always wise to
periodically check you water parameters, especially in summer, and
especially pH, nitrates, and alkalinity.

Here is a link to my pond with the filter set up (I have more plants in the
pond than are shown in these pictures, which are a couple of years old):

http://home.insightbb.com/~jryates/filter.htm

[KerplunKuK]

George scribbled :
Perhaps if the person posting his question could post his water parameters
(pH, ammmonia, nitrites, nitrates, general hardness), we could give him more
specific information.

The results from the testing are as follows;
pH= 7.6
Ammonia= 0 - 0.125ppm
Nitrite= 5ppm
Nitrate= 0ppm
Hardness= 201-300 mg/l

Anything else needed? My next step is to introduce many more plants. Are
there any that are especially good, or is any plant good?
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[RichToyBox]

With a nitrite level of 5, your filter has not completely cycled. That high
a nitrite level is dangerous to the fish, without salt in the pond. Add
about 1 pound per hundred gallons to get a salt level that will protect the
fish. Once the nitrite levels come down to 0, then remove the salt through
water changes. Plants, and particularly algae, like their nitrogen first
from ammonia, then nitrites, and then nitrates. With an uncycled filter,
you have some minimal ammonia left, and high nitrites, so the algae is
thriving.

Filters are marketed with a pond size in gallons, liters, etc. This is very
poor, since the size of a filter should be based on the amount of waste,
which is associated with number of fish, turtles, frogs, etc., size of each,
number of feedings, water temperature, etc. Most filters are over rated by
a factor of at least 2. I run filters that will supposedly handle about 4
times the volume of my ponds.

I am assuming, by your pH, that the hardness value you stated, is the GH
hardness, not the KH carbonate hardness. KH helps to stabilize the pH and
helps the filter bacteria, which consume a certain amount of it. If you
have not checked it, then please do. The level should be a minimum of 100,
and can be as high as 300 without harm. To raise the KH, use regular old
baking soda.
--
RichToyBox
http://www.geocities.com/richtoybox/pondintro.html

"KerplunKuK" > wrote in message
...
> George scribbled :
> Perhaps if the person posting his question could post his water parameters
> (pH, ammmonia, nitrites, nitrates, general hardness), we could give him
> more
> specific information.
>
> The results from the testing are as follows;
> pH= 7.6
> Ammonia= 0 - 0.125ppm
> Nitrite= 5ppm
> Nitrate= 0ppm
> Hardness= 201-300 mg/l
>
> Anything else needed? My next step is to introduce many more plants. Are
> there any that are especially good, or is any plant good?
> --
> Remove [dot] to reply
> Gamertag: Devil Ray UK
> Games: Flat Out, Worms, Links 04, RS3BA, Splinter Cell : CT, Top Spin,
> Halo 2, GR2, PGR 2, Doom 3, Rallisport 2, Forza, NBA Inside Drive, NFL
> Fever, Amped 2, Pariah, NHL Rivals
>
>

[KerplunKuK]

RichToyBox scribbled :

> I am assuming, by your pH, that the hardness value you stated, is the
> GH hardness, not the KH carbonate hardness. KH helps to stabilize
> the pH and helps the filter bacteria, which consume a certain amount
> of it.

That reading was taken from my local water authorities website at
www.anglianwater.co.uk

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[George]

"KerplunKuK" > wrote in message
...
> George scribbled :
> Perhaps if the person posting his question could post his water
> parameters
> (pH, ammmonia, nitrites, nitrates, general hardness), we could give him
> more
> specific information.
>
> The results from the testing are as follows;
> pH= 7.6
> Ammonia= 0 - 0.125ppm
> Nitrite= 5ppm
> Nitrate= 0ppm
> Hardness= 201-300 mg/l
>
> Anything else needed? My next step is to introduce many more plants.
> Are
> there any that are especially good, or is any plant good?

Hmmm. The pH is fine. However, those ammonia and nitrite levels would
concern me, especially the nitrite, as it can be toxic to fish and
invertebrates at that level. Ideally, the nitrite levels should be 0 ppm.
The hardness is off the charts as well, and is even higher than what is
recommended for salt water aqauriums. Normally, the acceptable general
hardness for freshwater ponds and aquariums is about 80-100 ppm. But this
is the lesser of my concerns. It can have a greater affect on the plants
than the fish at that concentration. I would look into finding a more
accurate kit for measuring your hardness. Are you using well water? What
is the source of your water? You may need to do a partial water change to
get these concentrations back down to acceptable levels. Having said that,
you should test your water source first to make sure it isn't the source of
these high concentrations. As for plants, water lillies are good, as are
any number of other water plants. That really is up to you, as you know
better than anyone else what space you have available for addition of
plants, and what type of animals you have in the pond (i.e., Koi are
notorious for eating/destroying certain plants). I would find a good local
source for water plants, and talk to the owner/dealer. He would know what
grows best in your area.

[George]

"KerplunKuK" > wrote in message
...
> RichToyBox scribbled :
>
>> I am assuming, by your pH, that the hardness value you stated, is the
>> GH hardness, not the KH carbonate hardness. KH helps to stabilize
>> the pH and helps the filter bacteria, which consume a certain amount
>> of it.
>
> That reading was taken from my local water authorities website at
> www.anglianwater.co.uk
>
> --
> Remove [dot] to reply
> Gamertag: Devil Ray UK
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> Fever, Amped 2, Pariah, NHL Rivals
>

You are saying that the numbers you provided are in your drinking water?
Hmmm.

[KerplunKuK]

George scribbled :

> You are saying that the numbers you provided are in your drinking
> water? Hmmm.

Only the hardness the rest are from my pond.
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[KerplunKuK]

George scribbled :
What is the
> source of your water?

The water comes from a rain reservoir, I will obtain a hardness measuring
kit. My 5ppm are on the generous side, probably closer to 0 than 5. How do
I go about softening an entire pond of water?
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[George]

"KerplunKuK" > wrote in message
...
> George scribbled :
>
>> You are saying that the numbers you provided are in your drinking
>> water? Hmmm.
>
> Only the hardness the rest are from my pond.
> --
> Remove [dot] to reply
> Gamertag: Devil Ray UK
> Games: Flat Out, Worms, Links 04, RS3BA, Splinter Cell : CT, Top Spin,
> Halo 2, GR2, PGR 2, Doom 3, Rallisport 2, Forza, NBA Inside Drive, NFL
> Fever, Amped 2, Pariah, NHL Rivals
>

Oh.

[George]

"KerplunKuK" > wrote in message
...
> George scribbled :
> What is the
>> source of your water?
>
> The water comes from a rain reservoir, I will obtain a hardness measuring
> kit. My 5ppm are on the generous side, probably closer to 0 than 5. How
> do
> I go about softening an entire pond of water?
> --
> Remove [dot] to reply
> Gamertag: Devil Ray UK
> Games: Flat Out, Worms, Links 04, RS3BA, Splinter Cell : CT, Top Spin,
> Halo 2, GR2, PGR 2, Doom 3, Rallisport 2, Forza, NBA Inside Drive, NFL
> Fever, Amped 2, Pariah, NHL Rivals
>

Essentially, you don't. I really wouldn't worry too much about it if the
fish and plants are doing well. But if by 5 ppm you are referring to the
nitrite levels, I would definitely consider doing at least a 5% water
change, 10% if you can spare the water.

[Reel Mckoi]

George wrote:
> "KerplunKuK" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>George scribbled :
>>
>>
>>>You are saying that the numbers you provided are in your drinking
>>>water? Hmmm.
>>
>>Only the hardness the rest are from my pond.
>>--
>>Remove [dot] to reply
>>Gamertag: Devil Ray UK
>>Games: Flat Out, Worms, Links 04, RS3BA, Splinter Cell : CT, Top Spin,
>>Halo 2, GR2, PGR 2, Doom 3, Rallisport 2, Forza, NBA Inside Drive, NFL
>>Fever, Amped 2, Pariah, NHL Rivals
>>
>
>
> Oh.
>
> Carol remailers has been traced to:

Please inform them that their customer is abusing their service
By spaming the net via remailers. Thay have a firsthop log file.
The account is alias alias


The above is Carol gate way from her home PC to her remailers and NSP.

And she thought her remailers could not be traced.


OrgName: Hughes Network Systems
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Address: attn: Network Security Manager
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Updated: 2003-01-21

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[Hans Christian Andersen]

When they knock on the door, I tell them to go away...if they refuse,
then my little dog with big teeth will assist them in finding their
way off my property. They better pray HARD that my dog doesn't find
their soft asses to sink his teeth into.






On 21 Jun 2005 04:01:49 -0000,
(CamdenKing) wrote:

>At the Door and Into the Home
>
>It's a quiet Saturday afternoon. You're sitting in your favorite
>chair, reading the newspaper. The doorbell rings. You answer it
>and encounter two bright-faced people. They're well dressed, and
>each carries a briefcase. For a moment you think they're going
>to sell you life insurance, but they seem too cheerful for that.
>
>You guess that they must be Jehovah's Witnesses, and sure enough
>they start talking about a wondrous hope for the future. They
>don't actually say they're Witnesses, but when one of them
>whisks out a Bible you can see some copies of the Watchtower
>magazine in his briefcase.
>
>They ask you for your opinion of world events, and what you
>think is going to happen if things continue to get worse. You
>reflect that there are a lot of problems, and you do sometimes
>wonder where it's leading. You invite them in to talk.
>
>Now, normally you don't invite strangers into your home, but
>these people seem harmless enough. You've heard about the
>legendary honesty of Jehovah's Witnesses. You decide not to
>worry about your possessions or your money.
>
>There's something else you should worry about.
>
>
>A Single Road to the Promised Land
>
>Jehovah's Witnesses are trained to get people talking about "the
>state of the world" and lead the discussion in such a way that
>their religion will appear to be your only hope. If you are not
>prepared for their indoctrination procedure, you may conclude
>that only Jehovah's Witnesses can fill your life with meaning
>and protect you from the trials and tribulations of life.
>
>The first thing they do is cultivate your fear.
>
>All of us are afraid of the unknown. What will happen tomorrow?
>Will I be fired? What if there's a nuclear war? What if I get
>sick? These 'what if' questions are the sparks that the
>Witnesses will fan into a flame.
>
>The Witnesses at your door have a purpose in mind: to convert
>you to their religion. If you ask them point-blank if that is
>their purpose, they will usually deny it. They will say that
>they are there to discuss "the state of the world" or "the
>Bible" or "a hope for the future". This evasiveness is
>understandable; if they blatantly told people they were there to
>convert them, they wouldn't get anybody to listen!
>
>In building up your fear, Witnesses can cite countless
>statistics to 'prove' that the world is in a dire state. Some of
>their statements are true, some are out of date, and some are
>wrong.
>
>Anybody can inadvertently deliver incorrect data. The Witnesses,
>however, deliver selective information designed to paint a
>woeful picture. While there are many things wrong with the
>world, there are many good things, too. Most of the people who
>read this article live in better health -- and longer -- than
>the richest king of ancient times.
>
>Alongside their bleak picture of the future, the Witnesses
>present an image of a glorious future, where you will live
>forever in a paradise. This is very appealing, and it is hard
>not to be tempted. We all yearn for a 'Garden of Eden', and many
>people take regular vacations in exotic locales such as Hawaii
>or Tahiti to sample a bit of the good life.
>
>At a Disadvantage
>
>How can you throw them out when they're offering you such a
>splendid future? Why should you get angry? Wouldn't that be
>rude? The Witnesses make the most headway with people who are
>polite. Their entire ministry would fail if people were less
>friendly to uninvited people knocking at their door.
>
>I am not suggesting that you be nasty to people who visit you
>unannounced. However, if you are planning to debate with
>Witnesses, bear in mind that they are well trained. They have a
>weekly meeting (the Theocratic Ministry School) which is
>designed to help them express ideas convincingly. The average
>person is not as well qualified to argue such matters.
>
>Even if you are well educated and articulate, you are probably
>not well versed in religious matters. Witnesses 'live, eat and
>breathe' their religion and can devastate most people in a
>debate. They know their doctrine very well, because they study
>it continuously. They've been taught answers to virtually every
>objection, which brings to mind the salesman's credo: "If you
>can answer every objection, you'll make the sale".
>
>If you can answer every objection, it does not mean that you are
>right (or that the product you are selling is better than the
>rest). It means that you are better at debates than the other
>person. Confidence tricksters ply their trade by convincing
>people that the seemingly impossible is in fact possible. (I am
>not equating Witnesses with criminals, by the way, but
>demonstrating the principle that "Cogency is not validity". What
>seems too good to be true is usually not true.)
>
>For all their skill, Witnesses are not invincible debaters. It
>is possible to poke a hole in their rhetoric -- especially if
>you are familiar with their doctrine, or have a good background
>in the Bible, science, or history. In such cases, Witnesses will
>subtly sidestep the issue. (This debating tactic, and others,
>are described in the article "Debating with Jehovah's
>Witnesses".)
>
>
>Watch for part #2
>
>
>-=-
>This message was sent via two or more anonymous remailing services.
>
>
>

[Rick]

On the subject of Algae



I have two ponds connected one with fish and some Lilly’s the other with
just plants. The upper one with just plants gets globs of algae on the
bottom, on the sides and in the roots of my floaters; the Lilly stems are
totally free of it. The bottom ponds with the fish dose not get any algae
on the bottom or on the sides but the Lilly stems are covered with the
stuff. The rocks at both my waterfalls have a layer of algae on them. The
globs are easy to get out and I like the time that I spend doing it. It’s
nice to piddle around at the pond. I spend at least an hour at the pond
doing al kinds of stuff. Also noted that the one with fish has no snails in
it but the upper one has. Question:



Do goldfish or Koi eat snails?



Should I brush the algae of the rocks on waterfall? When I do a lot of it
washes into the pond. Dose this spread the algae?



It is tempting to full the algae of the roots of the floaters and other
plans, is this good or am I doing more harm the good. Is it OK for them to
be covered with it?



PS: I never had an Algae bloom this year, and it's not a big problem. My
water is (still) clear.

[kathy]

Hi Rick!

Rick wrote

>>Do goldfish or Koi eat snails?

Yes, koi love a good snail. They will even eat land snails
if you toss them in.


>>Should I brush the algae of the rocks on waterfall? When I do a lot of it
washes into the pond. Dose this spread the algae?

Yes, it spreads it. Better to wind it around a long handled brush or
child's garden rake and remove it.

>>It is tempting to full the algae of the roots of the floaters and other
plans, is this good or am I doing more harm the good. Is it OK for
them to
be covered with it?

Basically, ok. Though some fish have been known to get tangled up in
it.


>>PS: I never had an Algae bloom this year, and it's not a big problem. My water is (still) clear.

One of the reasons is the other forms of algae growing in the pond.
Somebody has to take up the nutrients in the pond and those two types
of algae are doing the job. If you could magically make them disappear
you might have a suspended single cell algae bloom, the type that makes
your water look like green pea soup.

Algae thrives on sun, fresh water, fish waste, fertilized run off,
rotting plants and blown in dirt. In new ponds and spring ponds algae
is always the first thing to start growing.
The best defense against algae is to have lots of plants to compete for
the nutrients, few fish, not overfeeding those fish, some shade and
cleaning up debris.

kathy :-)
www.blogfromthebog.com
this week ~ Mosquitoes!
Run For Your Life!

Pond 101 page for new pond keepers ~
http://hometown.aol.com/ka30p/myhomepage/garden.html

[~ janj JJsPond.us]

>On Sun, 26 Jun 2005 06:18:04 GMT, "Rick" > wrote:

>On the subject of Algae

Only comment I have to add to the others. If your floaters look they they
may be doing poorly, possibly because of all the algae on the roots, you
can float them in a bucket of water with Potassium Permanganate. It will
kill the algae but the roots will be okay, just don't float them too long,
like an hour or so depending on the strength of the PP. ~ jan


See my ponds and filter design:
www.jjspond.us

~Keep 'em Wet!~
Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a
To e-mail see website

[Courageous]

>Should I brush the algae of the rocks on waterfall? When I do a lot of it
>washes into the pond. Dose this spread the algae?

I think you're fine.

>It is tempting to full the algae of the roots of the floaters and other
>plans, is this good or am I doing more harm the good. Is it OK for them to
>be covered with it?

I think you can leave it alone.

What's the water temperature range in your area, winter to summer?

There are some fish that eat algae of this sort. American Flag Fish,
for example. I've seen it written that Chinese Weather Loaches also
eat algae, although that's a minority opinion. Good news is that they
aren't known to munch plant roots, really, so you could possibly put
a couple of these into your plant tank.

C//

[Rick]

> Hi Rick!
>
> Rick wrote
>
>>>Should I brush the algae of the rocks on waterfall? When I do a lot of it
> washes into the pond. Dose this spread the algae?
>
> Yes, it spreads it. Better to wind it around a long handled brush or
> child's garden rake and remove it.




The algae on the rocks is dark green slime. No matter how I try, more goes
in to the pond then on the brush. So Leave it OR???



Thanks Rick!



>

[Rick]

How much PP Per gallon?

Kathy wrote:
>
>>On the subject of Algae
>
> Only comment I have to add to the others. If your floaters look they they
> may be doing poorly, possibly because of all the algae on the roots, you
> can float them in a bucket of water with Potassium Permanganate. It will
> kill the algae but the roots will be okay, just don't float them too long,
> like an hour or so depending on the strength of the PP. ~ jan

[~Roy~]

I dunno about others but 30 PPM has always worked fine for me, as long
as there was not any fish or other critters that I wanted to survive
the doseing. It does a bang up job of cleanin gup everything and
anything at that rate

Odds are though if your not fighting a prtoblem as far as fish health
is concerned, the standard 2 ppm dose applied to the entire pond and
fish will do it all a bit of good, and probably reduce your nutrient
load and knock off the algae as well.




On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 01:20:20 GMT, "Rick" > wrote:

>===<>How much PP Per gallon?
>===<>
>===<>Kathy wrote:
>===<>>
>===<>>>On the subject of Algae
>===<>>
>===<>> Only comment I have to add to the others. If your floaters look they they
>===<>> may be doing poorly, possibly because of all the algae on the roots, you
>===<>> can float them in a bucket of water with Potassium Permanganate. It will
>===<>> kill the algae but the roots will be okay, just don't float them too long,
>===<>> like an hour or so depending on the strength of the PP. ~ jan
>===<>


==============================================
Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked!
"The original frugal ponder"
~~~~ }<((((o> ~~~~~~ }<{{{{o> ~~~~~~~ }<(((((o>

[~ janj JJsPond.us]

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 01:38:09 GMT, (~Roy~) wrote:

>I dunno about others but 30 PPM has always worked fine for me, as long
>as there was not any fish or other critters that I wanted to survive
>the doseing. It does a bang up job of cleanin gup everything and
>anything at that rate
>
>Odds are though if your not fighting a prtoblem as far as fish health
>is concerned, the standard 2 ppm dose applied to the entire pond and
>fish will do it all a bit of good, and probably reduce your nutrient
>load and knock off the algae as well.

I don't recommend it in the pond for an algae problem, as it would be just
like an algaecide. Killing it just creates more food for the next problem
which could be worst.

As far as knocking it off the roots in a separate bucket, I add enough to
make the water a nice pretty purple... or iows, I've never measured, but it
takes very little, depending on how big your bucket is. ~ jan

~Power to the Porg, Flow On!~

[Roy]

Jan, interesting theory there.

Last year when I had massive algae blooms I was told by AUM (Auburn
University) and the Universtiy of Florida to dose my pond with PP,
to rid it of excessive nutrients. Any remaining junk after the second
dose if a second dose was needed would essentially be inert and add
little to no nutrient value to future algae blooms.......dunno if its
true or not, but thats what I was told by them.

I know my floaters like Sensitive Fern and frog bit had so much algae
built up on them you could not see the hair roots, and my lilys and
other plants had massive amounts of algae on their stems and
leaves...After my PP treatment the roots were like they were just
washed and totally free of any algae or otehr junk. It did take two
doses, but those 2 doses were a headstart in what my pond looks like
now, which has better than 36 inches of super visibility and in the
south in a natural pond this is almost unheard of especially when it
sets in full sun all day, and is filled by runoff and rainfall. I
would think a good filtration system would catch all the oxiidized
junk in a filtered pond, or it would settle out in a settlement
chamber, after a PP dose and not add much to a future algae
bloom....Just my perspective from what I have experienced.

Regards



On Mon, 27 Jun 2005 19:54:53 -0700, ~ janj JJsPond.us
> wrote:

>===<>On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 01:38:09 GMT, (~Roy~) wrote:
>===<>
>===<>>I dunno about others but 30 PPM has always worked fine for me, as long
>===<>>as there was not any fish or other critters that I wanted to survive
>===<>>the doseing. It does a bang up job of cleanin gup everything and
>===<>>anything at that rate
>===<>>
>===<>>Odds are though if your not fighting a prtoblem as far as fish health
>===<>>is concerned, the standard 2 ppm dose applied to the entire pond and
>===<>>fish will do it all a bit of good, and probably reduce your nutrient
>===<>>load and knock off the algae as well.
>===<>
>===<>I don't recommend it in the pond for an algae problem, as it would be just
>===<>like an algaecide. Killing it just creates more food for the next problem
>===<>which could be worst.
>===<>
>===<>As far as knocking it off the roots in a separate bucket, I add enough to
>===<>make the water a nice pretty purple... or iows, I've never measured, but it
>===<>takes very little, depending on how big your bucket is. ~ jan
>===<>
>===<> ~Power to the Porg, Flow On!~


==============================================
Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked!
"The original frugal ponder"
~~~~ }<((((o> ~~~~~~ }<{{{{o> ~~~~~~~ }<(((((o>

[~ janj JJsPond.us]

>On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 22:24:03 GMT, (Roy) wrote:

>Jan, interesting theory there.
>
>Last year when I had massive algae blooms I was told by AUM (Auburn
>University) and the Universtiy of Florida to dose my pond with PP,
>to rid it of excessive nutrients. Any remaining junk after the second
>dose if a second dose was needed would essentially be inert and add
>little to no nutrient value to future algae blooms.......dunno if its
>true or not, but thats what I was told by them.
>
>I know my floaters like Sensitive Fern and frog bit had so much algae
>built up on them you could not see the hair roots, and my lilys and
>other plants had massive amounts of algae on their stems and
>leaves...After my PP treatment the roots were like they were just
>washed and totally free of any algae or otehr junk. It did take two
>doses, but those 2 doses were a headstart in what my pond looks like
>now, which has better than 36 inches of super visibility and in the
>south in a natural pond this is almost unheard of especially when it
>sets in full sun all day, and is filled by runoff and rainfall. I
>would think a good filtration system would catch all the oxiidized
>junk in a filtered pond, or it would settle out in a settlement
>chamber, after a PP dose and not add much to a future algae
>bloom....Just my perspective from what I have experienced.

Hmmmm, well now you have me rethinking, I do know there is a KHA that
treats his water garden ponds with 2ppm now and then to rid them of the
organic mulm.

PP is an oxidizer, but where would the organics go/become? I know I was
going to try this in the D.pond this spring, and totally forgot, the D.pond
has this light fluffy mulm, that doesn't move for nothing towards the
bottom drain. Yet it puffs right up when disturbed. 2000 gallon pond with
turn around time of once/hour. So I was going to try his PP solution to see
what it would do with that mulm. Maybe next year, or this fall. We'll see.
~ jan

~Power to the Porg, Flow On!~

[Roy]

I do not know what the oxidized matter becomes afater treatment, only
that it is more inert in the oxidized stage than unoxidized, but it
does ot "remove" anything in the process.If you had say 10# of mulm in
the pond and you PP'd it, your still probably goping to have 10# and
maybe more of mulm when yur done, except its rendered inert......with
maybe a little less with vaporized material but its still going to
leave a residue........and not only inerting mulm and nutrients but it
knocks back or kill off any parasites that may be in there, which is a
help sometimes as its impossible as you know to rid the water of all
of these things as they are naturally occuring to some degree, but it
does good to reduce the community of nasties. The organics and
residue left after PP dose just have to be filtered out. I know when I
clean up a stock tank to get it ready for more fish I use the same
water, and PP it, and those tanks need 2 or 3 times the filter changes
until I get all the organics removed.

Regards

On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 22:16:17 -0700, ~ janj JJsPond.us
> wrote:

>===<>>On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 22:24:03 GMT, (Roy) wrote:
>===<>
>===<>>Jan, interesting theory there.
>===<>>
>===<>>Last year when I had massive algae blooms I was told by AUM (Auburn
>===<>>University) and the Universtiy of Florida to dose my pond with PP,
>===<>>to rid it of excessive nutrients. Any remaining junk after the second
>===<>>dose if a second dose was needed would essentially be inert and add
>===<>>little to no nutrient value to future algae blooms.......dunno if its
>===<>>true or not, but thats what I was told by them.
>===<>>
>===<>>I know my floaters like Sensitive Fern and frog bit had so much algae
>===<>>built up on them you could not see the hair roots, and my lilys and
>===<>>other plants had massive amounts of algae on their stems and
>===<>>leaves...After my PP treatment the roots were like they were just
>===<>>washed and totally free of any algae or otehr junk. It did take two
>===<>>doses, but those 2 doses were a headstart in what my pond looks like
>===<>>now, which has better than 36 inches of super visibility and in the
>===<>>south in a natural pond this is almost unheard of especially when it
>===<>>sets in full sun all day, and is filled by runoff and rainfall. I
>===<>>would think a good filtration system would catch all the oxiidized
>===<>>junk in a filtered pond, or it would settle out in a settlement
>===<>>chamber, after a PP dose and not add much to a future algae
>===<>>bloom....Just my perspective from what I have experienced.
>===<>
>===<>Hmmmm, well now you have me rethinking, I do know there is a KHA that
>===<>treats his water garden ponds with 2ppm now and then to rid them of the
>===<>organic mulm.
>===<>
>===<>PP is an oxidizer, but where would the organics go/become? I know I was
>===<>going to try this in the D.pond this spring, and totally forgot, the D.pond
>===<>has this light fluffy mulm, that doesn't move for nothing towards the
>===<>bottom drain. Yet it puffs right up when disturbed. 2000 gallon pond with
>===<>turn around time of once/hour. So I was going to try his PP solution to see
>===<>what it would do with that mulm. Maybe next year, or this fall. We'll see.
>===<>~ jan
>===<>
>===<> ~Power to the Porg, Flow On!~


==============================================
Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked!
"The original frugal ponder"
~~~~ }<((((o> ~~~~~~ }<{{{{o> ~~~~~~~ }<(((((o>

[Derek Broughton]

~ janj JJsPond.us wrote:

>>On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 22:24:03 GMT, (Roy) wrote:
>
>>Jan, interesting theory there.
>>
>>Last year when I had massive algae blooms I was told by AUM (Auburn
>>University) and the Universtiy of Florida to dose my pond with PP,
>>to rid it of excessive nutrients. Any remaining junk after the second
>>dose if a second dose was needed would essentially be inert and add
>>little to no nutrient value to future algae blooms.......dunno if its
>>true or not, but thats what I was told by them.

> Hmmmm, well now you have me rethinking, I do know there is a KHA that
> treats his water garden ponds with 2ppm now and then to rid them of the
> organic mulm.
>
> PP is an oxidizer, but where would the organics go/become?

I would have _thought_ (I'm no chemist) that it just precipitates the
organics out of the water column - I would expect "mulm" to still be there,
but perhaps as a denser precipitate. I can certainly see how it would make
nutrients unavailable to algae.
--
derek

[matrix j]