Curing ick

[Gottcha]

I recently had an ick outbreak in my tank and was wondering. If i add kick
ick do i need to take my activated carbon out of my filter? I was told that
it will remove all medications from the water.

[Iain Miller]

"Gottcha" > wrote in message
...
> I recently had an ick outbreak in my tank and was wondering. If i add kick
> ick do i need to take my activated carbon out of my filter? I was told
that
> it will remove all medications from the water.
>


Carbon will take any meds or plant ferts out the water - it works by
absorbtion. However, that also means it has a finite capacity and doesn't
work for very long in reality - maybe 4-6 weeks at most.

Its very useful to have around for removing meds etc when necessary but
generally isn't needed in your filter because it can also remove things that
you don't want to remove (i.e. plant food).

FWIW , the only cure I have ever used for Ich is Protazin by waterlife -
never failed, never lost a fish to it.

rgds

I.

[Jbutterflie]

For my ick I used Aquarium Salt by Jungle and let the temp. stay at
80, I used a small platic ziploc with a few holes and clamped it to
the side of the tank and let it slowly dissipate in the water. The
inverts and neons haven't seemed to mind and they're all doing fine
with the temp the way it is. I haven't had an outbreak yet.





"Gottcha" > wrote in message >...
> I recently had an ick outbreak in my tank and was wondering. If i add kick
> ick do i need to take my activated carbon out of my filter? I was told that
> it will remove all medications from the water.

[Paul Cassidy]

"Gottcha" > wrote in message
>...
> I recently had an ick outbreak in my tank and was wondering. If i add
kick
> ick do i need to take my activated carbon out of my filter? I was told
that
> it will remove all medications from the water.

I had a similar experience. I had some ick in the tank, started treatment
and got nowhere. The ick just got worse. Then I heard about the carbon, took
it out, re treated and it went away almost immedietely. Now it is possible
that it would have gone anyway, but without evidence to the contrary, I now
believe that removing the carbon is best.

[surewest]

Boosting the water temprature during the med treatments
also helps. Seems the parasite goes through it's stages faster
in the 80 temps and kills more of them.





Dr5000

| ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤° `°¤ø,¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø
| ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·.¸. ><((((º> ·´¯`·. , .·´¯`·.. ><((((º>

Two can live as cheap as one,
........ if one don't eat.
_______________________
"Paul Cassidy" > wrote in message
...
> "Gottcha" > wrote in message
> >...
> > I recently had an ick outbreak in my tank and was wondering. If i add
> kick
> > ick do i need to take my activated carbon out of my filter? I was told
> that
> > it will remove all medications from the water.
>
> I had a similar experience. I had some ick in the tank, started treatment
> and got nowhere. The ick just got worse. Then I heard about the carbon,
took
> it out, re treated and it went away almost immedietely. Now it is possible
> that it would have gone anyway, but without evidence to the contrary, I
now
> believe that removing the carbon is best.
>
>

[Uncle Sam]

I've had sucess with taking a fish and droping him into fresh water for 2 or
3 seconds. The different gravity pops the ick where the fish can be
re-introduced back into the tank. I havn't had any loss of stock by doing
this, you hvae to be careful not to leave ur fish in the freshwater too
long though.. they get stressed over it..
Good Luck
"Jbutterflie" > wrote in message
om...
> For my ick I used Aquarium Salt by Jungle and let the temp. stay at
> 80, I used a small platic ziploc with a few holes and clamped it to
> the side of the tank and let it slowly dissipate in the water. The
> inverts and neons haven't seemed to mind and they're all doing fine
> with the temp the way it is. I haven't had an outbreak yet.
>
>
>
>
>
> "Gottcha" > wrote in message
>...
> > I recently had an ick outbreak in my tank and was wondering. If i add
kick
> > ick do i need to take my activated carbon out of my filter? I was told
that
> > it will remove all medications from the water.

[Jeff]

"Uncle Sam" > wrote in message
...
> I've had sucess with taking a fish and droping him into fresh water for 2
or
> 3 seconds. The different gravity pops the ick where the fish can be
> re-introduced back into the tank. I havn't had any loss of stock by doing
> this, you hvae to be careful not to leave ur fish in the freshwater too
> long though.. they get stressed over it..
>
Didn't you just take them out of fresh water?

Jeff82


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[Paul Nolan]

Jeff wrote:
> "Uncle Sam" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>I've had sucess with taking a fish and droping him into fresh water for 2
>
> or
>
>>3 seconds. The different gravity pops the ick where the fish can be
>>re-introduced back into the tank. I havn't had any loss of stock by doing
>>this, you hvae to be careful not to leave ur fish in the freshwater too
>>long though.. they get stressed over it..
>>
>
> Didn't you just take them out of fresh water?
>
Unless it was a marine with white spot...

--
Paul Nolan >
Veni veni venias - ne me mori facias!

[mike d.]

I had three or four fish in a ninety-two gallon tank, and they got ick, and
I treated it(the tank) with the blue copper compound but I didn't remove
any charcoal. I don't know if my charcoal was old and spent, or if it just
didn't stop the action of the copper sulfate, but the fish very quickly &
very completely recovered. Mike.
"Gottcha" > wrote in message
...
>I recently had an ick outbreak in my tank and was wondering. If i add kick
> ick do i need to take my activated carbon out of my filter? I was told
> that
> it will remove all medications from the water.
>
>

[NoSpam]

"mike d." > wrote in message
. ..
>I had three or four fish in a ninety-two gallon tank, and they got
>ick, and I treated it(the tank) with the blue copper compound but I
>didn't remove any charcoal. I don't know if my charcoal was old and
>spent, or if it just didn't stop the action of the copper sulfate,
>but the fish very quickly & very completely recovered. Mike.
> "Gottcha" > wrote in message
> ...
>>I recently had an ick outbreak in my tank and was wondering. If i
>>add kick
>> ick do i need to take my activated carbon out of my filter? I was
>> told that
>> it will remove all medications from the water.

Activated carbon absorbs what it can in about 1 week. Then it is
'used' and will do nothing. You should replace it.

If you had a UV sterilizer and a cleaner shrimp it would be rare that
you get ick in the first place, and if you do just increase the amount
of time the UV light is on.

If you get ick again dip the fish in a separate container of distilled
water or RO/DI water for around 1 minute.

You will NEVER get rid of all the copper (a poison) but do several 50%
water changes and you'll be able to reduce the amount.

3-4 pounds of live sand + whatever amount of white sterilized play
sand (home depot) will give you 100% live sand in around 9 months. For
a 6' tank you'd want a 3" sand bed.

[expat[_2_]]

On Aug 25, 1:51*pm, "NoSpam" > wrote:
> "mike d." > wrote in message
>
> . ..
>
> >I had three or four fish in a ninety-two gallon tank, and they got
> >ick, and I treated it(the tank) with the blue copper compound *but I
> >didn't remove any charcoal. I don't know if my charcoal was old and
> >spent, or if it just didn't stop the action of the copper sulfate,
> >but the fish very quickly & very completely *recovered. *Mike.
> > "Gottcha" > wrote in message
> ...
> >>I recently had an ick outbreak in my tank and was wondering. If i
> >>add kick
> >> ick do i need to take my activated carbon out of my filter? I was
> >> told that
> >> it will remove all medications from the water.
>
> Activated carbon absorbs what it can in about 1 week. Then it is
> 'used' and will do nothing. You should replace it.
>
> If you had a UV sterilizer and a cleaner shrimp it would be rare that
> you get ick in the first place, and if you do just increase the amount
> of time the UV light is on.
>
> If you get ick again dip the fish in a separate container of distilled
> water or RO/DI water for around 1 minute.
>
> You will NEVER get rid of all the copper (a poison) but do several 50%
> water changes and you'll be able to reduce the amount.
>
> 3-4 pounds of live sand + whatever amount of white sterilized play
> sand (home depot) will give you 100% live sand in around 9 months. For
> a 6' tank you'd want a 3" sand bed.

Putting vcoper in a marine fish tank is bad to do. A quick and simple
dip in RODI water that is preferablly temp and PH matched tothe tanks
water is a very effective way to fix an ICH problem. Use a separate
tank or container to use for the dip of about 1 or 2 minutes. I let em
in for as long as possible or up till the fish starts to stress out. I
also like to keep the tank free of any fish for a couple of weeks as
well after the infected fish are removed in additon to healthy fish as
without a host the ich parasite will die. It pays to have a basic bare
hospital or quarantine tank with fresh or salt water fish.

Odds are you may have problems if you ever decide to have any inverts
with the copper that is in any live rock or silicone seals, but if its
a fish only tank its not a problem other than the usual staining of
the silicone seals. When you dip a marine fish with ICH in freshwater
you can literally see the parasites
"explode and drop off the fish"

[Peter Pan[_2_]]

A hospital tank is what is needed when treating a fish who is sick with
any illness. You don't want to infect the other fishes in the tank. Ick
is caused by stress to the fish. A hospital tank is also useful when
buying a new fish and getting him acclimated before he goes in the main
tank, also to make sure he's not sick and bringing a disease into your tank
A fresh water dip will cure the fish of the ick right away. A cleaner
shrimp will also cure the fish,but may take a bit longer. A U.V.
sterilizer? from everything I've read, is not recommenced in reef
environment. It will kill ALL bacteria even the the ones you want in
the tank.
Sometimes doing a little research on you own, will answer the very
question you seek to answer.

[George Patterson]

Peter Pan wrote:
> A U.V.
> sterilizer? from everything I've read, is not recommenced in reef
> environment. It will kill ALL bacteria even the the ones you want in
> the tank.

It would be nice if they actually worked that well, but they don't. Regardless
of whether they are advisable with reef tanks, they aren't good enough to kill
ick. The best you can hope for is to reduce the spread of the disease when the
protozoa reaches the free-swimming stage.

George Patterson
The cost of living hasn't affected its popularity.

[expat[_2_]]

On Aug 25, 10:46*pm, George Patterson > wrote:
> Peter Pan wrote:
> > A U.V.
> > sterilizer? from everything I've read, is not recommenced in reef
> > environment. It will kill *ALL bacteria even the the ones you want in
> > the tank.
>
> It would be nice if they actually worked that well, but they don't. Regardless
> of whether they are advisable with reef tanks, they aren't good enough to kill
> ick. The best you can hope for is to reduce the spread of the disease when the
> protozoa reaches the free-swimming stage.
>
> George Patterson
> * * The cost of living hasn't affected its popularity.

Evidently JOhn Smith the dumbass has to buy large quanities of crap
since he is so inept at keeping fish healthy. Gravel ina ****ing
sal****er setup your clueless dude as thatw as what the OP was asking
about you dipshipt from a looney farm.....No go get a clue and take
some of that copper treatment for your own maladies you clueless twit.
OH, your momma says I am the only one that ever satisfied her, and
your wife says my dogs did her so good that she is never going to give
you any more, so your stuck with your fist and wanking for ever.

[John Smith[_2_]]

expat wrote:
> On Aug 25, 10:46 pm, George Patterson > wrote:
>> Peter Pan wrote:
>>> A U.V.
>>> sterilizer? from everything I've read, is not recommenced in reef
>>> environment. It will kill ALL bacteria even the the ones you want in
>>> the tank.
>> It would be nice if they actually worked that well, but they don't. Regardless
>> of whether they are advisable with reef tanks, they aren't good enough to kill
>> ick. The best you can hope for is to reduce the spread of the disease when the
>> protozoa reaches the free-swimming stage.
>>
>> George Patterson
>> The cost of living hasn't affected its popularity.
>
> Evidently JOhn Smith the dumbass has to buy large quanities of crap
> since he is so inept at keeping fish healthy. Gravel ina ****ing
> sal****er setup your clueless dude as thatw as what the OP was asking
> about you dipshipt from a looney farm.....No go get a clue and take
> some of that copper treatment for your own maladies you clueless twit.
> OH, your momma says I am the only one that ever satisfied her, and
> your wife says my dogs did her so good that she is never going to give
> you any more, so your stuck with your fist and wanking for ever.
>

Take my ****** out of your mouth when you speak, no one can understand you!

ROFLOL!

Regards,
JS

[expat[_2_]]

On Aug 26, 11:45*am, John Smith > wrote:
> expat wrote:
> >> ... Gravel ina ****ing
> > sal****er setup your clueless dude as thatw as what the OP was asking
> > about you dipshipt from a looney farm.....
>
> This:
>
> * * * * *Premium Atlantic Crushed Coral with Aragonite #4
> Benefits of Atlantic Crushed Coral:
> 100% from the Ocean Floor. Natural crushed coral gravel. Maintains
> superior pH and marine chemical balance. Provides maximum surface area
> for biological nitrification. Scientifically graded for uniformity which
> provides maximum water flow and aeration. Prevents anaerobic (Dead
> Spots) in Bacteria bed. Completely chemical free. Pre-washed (minimum
> rinse required).
>
> Item #: 10401
> UPC: 029904104010
> Grain size: 2-3.5mm
> Packaged: 1 - 40 lb Bag per case
> Net Weight: 40 lbs * * *Item #: 10351
> UPC: 029904103518
> Grain size: 2-3.5mm
> Packaged: 2 - 20 lb Bags per case
> Net Weight: 40 lbs
>
> *From here:
>
> http://www.naturesocean.com/marine_substrates.htm
>
> I pity those who follow your advice ... you could at least attempt to
> improve your accuracy--when they finally let you out. *:-(
>
> Regards,
> JS


He dip****. Gravel is not measure in grain sizs such as 2 to 3.5 mm.Go
get a clue and stop playing with yourslef you clueless moron turd
eater. Gravel does not have the properties needed for use ina marine
tank turd licker. You must have me confused with your daddy as I di
not lick dicks like him nor do I wank like you do either. I just let
your momma and wife suck my dick , so they have somehting to feed to
you later on for a snack! Clueless moron!

[no-spam]

This method is not practical, it sounds good in theory. The biggest pitfall
with this method is that you have to first catch the fish from the tank, and
catching them is not easy unless you have a bare bottom tank, no coral, no
landscaping.


"expat" > wrote in message
...
>Putting vcoper in a marine fish tank is bad to do. A quick and simple
>dip in RODI water that is preferablly temp and PH matched tothe tanks
>water is a very effective way to fix an ICH problem. Use a separate
>tank or container to use for the dip of about 1 or 2 minutes. I let em
>in for as long as possible or up till the fish starts to stress out. I
>also like to keep the tank free of any fish for a couple of weeks as
>well after the infected fish are removed in additon to healthy fish as
>without a host the ich parasite will die. It pays to have a basic bare
>hospital or quarantine tank with fresh or salt water fish.
>
>Odds are you may have problems if you ever decide to have any inverts
>with the copper that is in any live rock or silicone seals, but if its
>a fish only tank its not a problem other than the usual staining of
>the silicone seals. When you dip a marine fish with ICH in freshwater
>you can literally see the parasites
>"explode and drop off the fish"

[John Smith[_2_]]

mike d. wrote:
> I had three or four fish in a ninety-two gallon tank, and they got ick, and
> I treated it(the tank) with the blue copper compound but I didn't remove
> any charcoal. I don't know if my charcoal was old and spent, or if it just
> didn't stop the action of the copper sulfate, but the fish very quickly &
> very completely recovered. Mike.
> "Gottcha" > wrote in message
> ...
>> I recently had an ick outbreak in my tank and was wondering. If i add kick
>> ick do i need to take my activated carbon out of my filter? I was told
>> that
>> it will remove all medications from the water.

All that out of the way now ... this might be the way I'd go (at least
before dropping to copper in freshwater aquaria.) However, all snails,
plants and salt sensitive fish (such as Corydoras, etc) must be removed
first:

http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/health/salt.shtml

And, as the article points out, this is the "original" salt treatment
for freshwater aquariums. The "new" treatment is usually deemed to be
half those doses.

However, many of us will go up to the full original doses, if necessary.

Regards,
JS
Half-a-Brain-McCain'n Insane; So Lawdy Mama, It Looks Like Obama!

[expat[_2_]]

On Aug 27, 10:09*pm, "no-spam" > wrote:
> This method is not practical, it sounds good in theory. The biggest pitfall
> with this method is that you have to first catch the fish from the tank, and
> catching them is not easy unless you have a bare bottom tank, no coral, no
> landscaping.
>
> "expat" > wrote in message
>
> ...
>
>
>
> >Putting vcoper in a marine fish tank is bad to do. A quick and simple
> >dip in RODI water that is preferablly temp and PH matched tothe tanks
> >water is a very effective way to fix an ICH problem. Use a separate
> >tank or container to use for the dip of about 1 or 2 minutes. I let em
> >in for as long as possible or up till the fish starts to stress out. I
> >also like to keep the tank free of any fish for a couple of weeks as
> >well after the infected fish are removed in additon to healthy fish as
> >without a host the ich parasite will die. It pays to have a basic bare
> >hospital or quarantine tank with fresh or salt water fish.
>
> >Odds are you may have problems if you ever decide to have any inverts
> >with the copper that is in any live rock or silicone seals, but if its
> >a fish only tank its not a problem other than the usual staining of
> >the silicone seals. When you dip a marine fish *with ICH in freshwater
> >you can literally see the parasites
> >"explode and drop off the fish"- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Whats so hard about catching a fish,. Evidently the fish is smarter
than you are as I have never had any problems catching any fish I had
a need to catch. All it takes is having a higher IQ than the fish so
you can out wit it.......Pretty simple IMHO. Makes it no more
difficult in a bare bottom or a reef tank. There is lots of various
ways to catch them, all without a problem..maybe a bit time consuming
with some, but still 110% doable.

[ritblak]

I used aquarium salt bush, so that temperature. Stay 80, I used a small plastic storage bag with a few holes and clamp it side of the tank and let it slowly disappeared. The Ni seems to reverse and did not think they are doing well with the way the temperature.

[lenitaray]

This method is not practical, it sounds fine in theory. The biggest trap, using this method, you must first catch of fish from the tanks, and it is not easy to catch them, unless you have a bare bottom tank, no coral, no landscaping.

[Blueeyesgreenalgae]

"mike d." wrote in message
. ..
I had three or four fish in a ninety-two gallon tank, and they got
ick, and I treated it(the tank) with the blue copper compound but I
didn't remove any charcoal. I don't know if my charcoal was old and
spent, or if it just didn't stop the action of the copper sulfate,
but the fish very quickly & very completely recovered. Mike.
"Gottcha" wrote in message
...
I recently had an ick outbreak in my tank and was wondering. If i
add kick
ick do i need to take my activated carbon out of my filter? I was
told that
it will remove all medications from the water.

Activated carbon absorbs what it can in about 1 week. Then it is
'used' and will do nothing. You should replace it.

If you had a UV sterilizer and a cleaner shrimp it would be rare that
you get ick in the first place, and if you do just increase the amount
of time the UV light is on.

If you get ick again dip the fish in a separate container of distilled
water or RO/DI water for around 1 minute.

You will NEVER get rid of all the copper (a poison) but do several 50%
water changes and you'll be able to reduce the amount.

3-4 pounds of live sand + whatever amount of white sterilized play
sand (home depot) will give you 100% live sand in around 9 months. For
a 6' tank you'd want a 3" sand bed.
You should dump THAT Carbon it will be infected........ hoover out as much substrate as you can........ do 50% H2O change...... Raise temp

avoid medications.......... after it is all said and done....... then use your FRESH carbon for a week or two and then Dump carbon..... 50% H2O change.


HAHA! Just Kidding.

Good Luck !

I have never had ick.

But do what i say.

Y ou should ALWAYS do more water changes!