Setting tanks up again...want to start off right

[Timcat]

Hello Everyone,
I am setting up my tanks again after a long break for school, moving,
house-building, and other excuses. I have probably made about every newbie
mistake there is, and I don't care to repeat any. My break has been about 10
years, and I'm finding quite a few technology changes.
My main concerns at the moment are filtration, lighting, and
substrate...
1) Is it recommended to use a wet/dry system and/or a canister filter (I
never used a canister in the past, but now wish I had)? Which canister
filters are considered the quietest, easiest on electricity, and most
versatile for adding anything that may be needed (carbon, resins,
reparability, etc.)?
2) What lighting is currently considered best and easiest on electricity?
3) What size substrate is considered optimum for community tanks where
Kuhlii loaches and corydoras are kept?
My plans are to set up a 40 gal stretch hex freshwater tank and a 29 gal
brackish tank...both planted.

Many thanks,
Tim

[George Pontis]

In article >, says...
> ...
> 1) Is it recommended to use a wet/dry system and/or a canister filter (I
> never used a canister in the past, but now wish I had)? Which canister
> filters are considered the quietest, easiest on electricity, and most
> versatile for adding anything that may be needed (carbon, resins,
> reparability, etc.)?

Though there are some canister filters with wet/dry action, they are very
expensive. You can get the benefits of both by using a conventional canister
filter of your choice and running the return tube to a Marineland biowheel, such
the the Pro 30. I have a small Fluval 104 and medium size Eheim 2224 that are both
very quiet and don't use much electricity, less than 10W each. I would imagine
that others make good canisters also. One change in the last 10 years has been the
development of the easy disconnect mechanisms for canister filters. These
incorporate shutoff valves and a single lever disconnect for both inlet and outlet
tubes. This is really a good feature that makes servicing the canister much easier
(and dryer). A prefilter for the canister inlet is a nice touch but not essential
if you service the canister often enough.

Alternatively, you could couple a powerhead with sponge filter to a biowheel. The
PH would be a lot cheaper than any canister filter, and the sponge serves as an
easy to clean prefilter with some additional biological filtering capability. The
downside is having more stuff visible in your tank. Also, no place to put carbon
in case the need arises.

> 2) What lighting is currently considered best and easiest on electricity?

Any kind of fluorescent using T8, T5, or power compact tube, preferably with
decent reflector and electronic ballast. If you need to buy a fixture, check the
Coralife Freshwater Aqualight product - an excellent choice for a planted tank.
They come in various lengths. A 30" model with a single 65W lamp would provide
plenty of light for your 29G tank. One good source:
http://www.hellolights.com/comfluorsys.html

George

[George Pontis]

In article >, says...
> Hello Everyone,
> I am setting up my tanks again after a long break for school, moving,
> house-building, and other excuses. I have probably made about every newbie
> mistake there is, and I don't care to repeat any. My break has been about 10
> years, and I'm finding quite a few technology changes.
> ...
> My plans are to set up a 40 gal stretch hex freshwater tank and a 29 gal
> brackish tank...both planted.

A couple of other things ...

For your planted tanks, some kind of CO2 source will improve the growth
considerably and goes along with good lighting. A Hagen kit with bubble ladder is
effective and easy to use. At greater cost you can use a CO2 cylinder with
regulator to supply the bubble ladder.

Although you didn't ask, there have been some improvements in heaters too. You may
as well go with an electronic model. The Hagen Tronic is a good example of a
submersible. They have calibrated dials that I find to be more accurate than
common aquarium thermometers.

[Timcat]

Great...Thanks! Heaters never crossed my mind. I appreciate it.

Tim

"George Pontis" > wrote in message
t...
> In article >,
> says...
>> Hello Everyone,
>> I am setting up my tanks again after a long break for school, moving,
>> house-building, and other excuses. I have probably made about every
>> newbie
>> mistake there is, and I don't care to repeat any. My break has been about
>> 10
>> years, and I'm finding quite a few technology changes.
>> ...
>> My plans are to set up a 40 gal stretch hex freshwater tank and a 29
>> gal
>> brackish tank...both planted.
>
> A couple of other things ...
>
> For your planted tanks, some kind of CO2 source will improve the growth
> considerably and goes along with good lighting. A Hagen kit with bubble
> ladder is
> effective and easy to use. At greater cost you can use a CO2 cylinder with
> regulator to supply the bubble ladder.
>
> Although you didn't ask, there have been some improvements in heaters too.
> You may
> as well go with an electronic model. The Hagen Tronic is a good example of
> a
> submersible. They have calibrated dials that I find to be more accurate
> than
> common aquarium thermometers.

[Elaine T]

Timcat wrote:
> Hello Everyone,
> I am setting up my tanks again after a long break for school, moving,
> house-building, and other excuses. I have probably made about every newbie
> mistake there is, and I don't care to repeat any. My break has been about 10
> years, and I'm finding quite a few technology changes.

I took a break too, so I know the feeling.

> My main concerns at the moment are filtration, lighting, and
> substrate...
> 1) Is it recommended to use a wet/dry system and/or a canister filter (I
> never used a canister in the past, but now wish I had)? Which canister
> filters are considered the quietest, easiest on electricity, and most
> versatile for adding anything that may be needed (carbon, resins,
> reparability, etc.)?

Wet/dry is not good for planted tanks as it makes it nearly impossible
to add CO2. With a canister filter, you can use a spraybar underwater
and control how much you disturb the surface and thus the gas exchange.
I have always favored Fluval canisters becaue of their nice media
baskets, but Eheim also makes a very good filter.

> 2) What lighting is currently considered best and easiest on electricity?

Lighting is totally different now. Compact fluorescent (or power
compact) lighting is commonplace and provides more lumens per watt. The
bulbs stay bright rather than degrading, so you only have to replace
them every couple years on failure. You can also put more wattage in a
smaller area, which will be important for your 40 hex. However, I have
found the CRI of my current bulb disappointing and am hunting for a
better bulb for the unit so check the CRI of your setup.

> 3) What size substrate is considered optimum for community tanks where
> Kuhlii loaches and corydoras are kept?
> My plans are to set up a 40 gal stretch hex freshwater tank and a 29 gal
> brackish tank...both planted.

Substrates have changed too. No more awful powdered laterite! Seachem
makes Flourite and Onyx, and Caribsea makes Eco Complete which are iron
and mineral containing clay substrates for planted tanks. I believe
Flourite is natural, mined laterite. Flourite and Eco Complete are more
gravel-like, while Onyx is a fine, black sand. Cories and kuhli loaches
like a fine substrate where they can dig, so I'd go with Onyx. Rinse
the Seachem substrates EXTENSIVELY before putting them into your tank as
they're very dusty.

Also, RedSea is making affordable heating cables so that's now a much
more realistic option for planted tank substrates.

Finally, Seachem has come out with an impressive plant supplement called
Flourish Excel. It's a 2-carbon molecule that plants can take up and
use in place of CO2. Even better, algae can't use it. Seachem claims
about 70% of the growth than with C02. With CF lighting and Excel, I'm
now able to keep fabulous little 2 gallon planted tanks, which I
couldn't do 10 years ago. Excel would be good for your brackish tank
since the KH will be high.

>
> Many thanks,
> Tim
>
>

--
Elaine T __
http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com

[Timcat]

Thank you VERY much for the insight. Hopefully, in a few weeks I'll have my
basic research done and can move on to the more advanced planning
stages...and double-check all my notes and plans before I start buying
stuff.

Tim

"Elaine T" > wrote in message
...
> Timcat wrote:
>> Hello Everyone,
>> I am setting up my tanks again after a long break for school, moving,
>> house-building, and other excuses. I have probably made about every
>> newbie mistake there is, and I don't care to repeat any. My break has
>> been about 10 years, and I'm finding quite a few technology changes.
>
> I took a break too, so I know the feeling.
>
>> My main concerns at the moment are filtration, lighting, and
>> substrate...
>> 1) Is it recommended to use a wet/dry system and/or a canister filter (I
>> never used a canister in the past, but now wish I had)? Which canister
>> filters are considered the quietest, easiest on electricity, and most
>> versatile for adding anything that may be needed (carbon, resins,
>> reparability, etc.)?
>
> Wet/dry is not good for planted tanks as it makes it nearly impossible to
> add CO2. With a canister filter, you can use a spraybar underwater and
> control how much you disturb the surface and thus the gas exchange. I have
> always favored Fluval canisters becaue of their nice media baskets, but
> Eheim also makes a very good filter.
>
>> 2) What lighting is currently considered best and easiest on electricity?
>
> Lighting is totally different now. Compact fluorescent (or power compact)
> lighting is commonplace and provides more lumens per watt. The bulbs stay
> bright rather than degrading, so you only have to replace them every
> couple years on failure. You can also put more wattage in a smaller area,
> which will be important for your 40 hex. However, I have found the CRI of
> my current bulb disappointing and am hunting for a better bulb for the
> unit so check the CRI of your setup.
>
>> 3) What size substrate is considered optimum for community tanks where
>> Kuhlii loaches and corydoras are kept?
>> My plans are to set up a 40 gal stretch hex freshwater tank and a 29
>> gal brackish tank...both planted.
>
> Substrates have changed too. No more awful powdered laterite! Seachem
> makes Flourite and Onyx, and Caribsea makes Eco Complete which are iron
> and mineral containing clay substrates for planted tanks. I believe
> Flourite is natural, mined laterite. Flourite and Eco Complete are more
> gravel-like, while Onyx is a fine, black sand. Cories and kuhli loaches
> like a fine substrate where they can dig, so I'd go with Onyx. Rinse the
> Seachem substrates EXTENSIVELY before putting them into your tank as
> they're very dusty.
>
> Also, RedSea is making affordable heating cables so that's now a much more
> realistic option for planted tank substrates.
>
> Finally, Seachem has come out with an impressive plant supplement called
> Flourish Excel. It's a 2-carbon molecule that plants can take up and use
> in place of CO2. Even better, algae can't use it. Seachem claims about
> 70% of the growth than with C02. With CF lighting and Excel, I'm now able
> to keep fabulous little 2 gallon planted tanks, which I couldn't do 10
> years ago. Excel would be good for your brackish tank since the KH will
> be high.
>
>>
>> Many thanks,
>> Tim
>
> --
> Elaine T __
> http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
> rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com

[tropical]

Like you, I too started again after a 10 year plus adsence.
Currently, I've have a 55 gallon community tank up and going. A 29
gallon is next. I have the tank and stand just waiting for the
ordered items to arrive. Then, it will be my future angelfish and
clown loach tank.

Well, back to your questions. Not being happy with the 55 gallon
filtering system. I ordered a "Filstar XP2" cannister filter. After
a day of operating, my water is crystal clear and odorless.

The "Filstar XP2" was amazingly simple to setup. But the big thing
is, it's so quiet. Plus, I like the output flow control.

In fact I'm so impressed and pleased with the Filstar, I ordered a
"Filstar XP1" for the 29 gallon tank.


On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 01:05:12 GMT, Elaine T >
wrote:

>Timcat wrote:
>> Hello Everyone,
>> I am setting up my tanks again after a long break for school, moving,
>> house-building, and other excuses. I have probably made about every newbie
>> mistake there is, and I don't care to repeat any. My break has been about 10
>> years, and I'm finding quite a few technology changes.
>
>I took a break too, so I know the feeling.
>
>> My main concerns at the moment are filtration, lighting, and
>> substrate...
>> 1) Is it recommended to use a wet/dry system and/or a canister filter (I
>> never used a canister in the past, but now wish I had)? Which canister
>> filters are considered the quietest, easiest on electricity, and most
>> versatile for adding anything that may be needed (carbon, resins,
>> reparability, etc.)?
>
>Wet/dry is not good for planted tanks as it makes it nearly impossible
>to add CO2. With a canister filter, you can use a spraybar underwater
>and control how much you disturb the surface and thus the gas exchange.
> I have always favored Fluval canisters becaue of their nice media
>baskets, but Eheim also makes a very good filter.
>
>> 2) What lighting is currently considered best and easiest on electricity?
>
>Lighting is totally different now. Compact fluorescent (or power
>compact) lighting is commonplace and provides more lumens per watt. The
>bulbs stay bright rather than degrading, so you only have to replace
>them every couple years on failure. You can also put more wattage in a
>smaller area, which will be important for your 40 hex. However, I have
>found the CRI of my current bulb disappointing and am hunting for a
>better bulb for the unit so check the CRI of your setup.
>
>> 3) What size substrate is considered optimum for community tanks where
>> Kuhlii loaches and corydoras are kept?
>> My plans are to set up a 40 gal stretch hex freshwater tank and a 29 gal
>> brackish tank...both planted.
>
>Substrates have changed too. No more awful powdered laterite! Seachem
>makes Flourite and Onyx, and Caribsea makes Eco Complete which are iron
>and mineral containing clay substrates for planted tanks. I believe
>Flourite is natural, mined laterite. Flourite and Eco Complete are more
>gravel-like, while Onyx is a fine, black sand. Cories and kuhli loaches
>like a fine substrate where they can dig, so I'd go with Onyx. Rinse
>the Seachem substrates EXTENSIVELY before putting them into your tank as
>they're very dusty.
>
>Also, RedSea is making affordable heating cables so that's now a much
>more realistic option for planted tank substrates.
>
>Finally, Seachem has come out with an impressive plant supplement called
>Flourish Excel. It's a 2-carbon molecule that plants can take up and
>use in place of CO2. Even better, algae can't use it. Seachem claims
>about 70% of the growth than with C02. With CF lighting and Excel, I'm
>now able to keep fabulous little 2 gallon planted tanks, which I
>couldn't do 10 years ago. Excel would be good for your brackish tank
>since the KH will be high.
>
>>
>> Many thanks,
>> Tim
>>
>>

[Timcat]

Thanks! I haven't heard of that filter, yet. I'll be sure to look into it,
as I especially like the output flow control feature, as well.

Best Regards,
Tim

<tropical> wrote in message
...
>
> Like you, I too started again after a 10 year plus adsence.
> Currently, I've have a 55 gallon community tank up and going. A 29
> gallon is next. I have the tank and stand just waiting for the
> ordered items to arrive. Then, it will be my future angelfish and
> clown loach tank.
>
> Well, back to your questions. Not being happy with the 55 gallon
> filtering system. I ordered a "Filstar XP2" cannister filter. After
> a day of operating, my water is crystal clear and odorless.
>
> The "Filstar XP2" was amazingly simple to setup. But the big thing
> is, it's so quiet. Plus, I like the output flow control.
>
> In fact I'm so impressed and pleased with the Filstar, I ordered a
> "Filstar XP1" for the 29 gallon tank.
>
>
> On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 01:05:12 GMT, Elaine T >
> wrote:
>
>>Timcat wrote:
>>> Hello Everyone,
>>> I am setting up my tanks again after a long break for school,
>>> moving,
>>> house-building, and other excuses. I have probably made about every
>>> newbie
>>> mistake there is, and I don't care to repeat any. My break has been
>>> about 10
>>> years, and I'm finding quite a few technology changes.
>>
>>I took a break too, so I know the feeling.
>>
>>> My main concerns at the moment are filtration, lighting, and
>>> substrate...
>>> 1) Is it recommended to use a wet/dry system and/or a canister filter (I
>>> never used a canister in the past, but now wish I had)? Which canister
>>> filters are considered the quietest, easiest on electricity, and most
>>> versatile for adding anything that may be needed (carbon, resins,
>>> reparability, etc.)?
>>
>>Wet/dry is not good for planted tanks as it makes it nearly impossible
>>to add CO2. With a canister filter, you can use a spraybar underwater
>>and control how much you disturb the surface and thus the gas exchange.
>> I have always favored Fluval canisters becaue of their nice media
>>baskets, but Eheim also makes a very good filter.
>>
>>> 2) What lighting is currently considered best and easiest on
>>> electricity?
>>
>>Lighting is totally different now. Compact fluorescent (or power
>>compact) lighting is commonplace and provides more lumens per watt. The
>>bulbs stay bright rather than degrading, so you only have to replace
>>them every couple years on failure. You can also put more wattage in a
>>smaller area, which will be important for your 40 hex. However, I have
>>found the CRI of my current bulb disappointing and am hunting for a
>>better bulb for the unit so check the CRI of your setup.
>>
>>> 3) What size substrate is considered optimum for community tanks
>>> where
>>> Kuhlii loaches and corydoras are kept?
>>> My plans are to set up a 40 gal stretch hex freshwater tank and a 29
>>> gal
>>> brackish tank...both planted.
>>
>>Substrates have changed too. No more awful powdered laterite! Seachem
>>makes Flourite and Onyx, and Caribsea makes Eco Complete which are iron
>>and mineral containing clay substrates for planted tanks. I believe
>>Flourite is natural, mined laterite. Flourite and Eco Complete are more
>>gravel-like, while Onyx is a fine, black sand. Cories and kuhli loaches
>>like a fine substrate where they can dig, so I'd go with Onyx. Rinse
>>the Seachem substrates EXTENSIVELY before putting them into your tank as
>>they're very dusty.
>>
>>Also, RedSea is making affordable heating cables so that's now a much
>>more realistic option for planted tank substrates.
>>
>>Finally, Seachem has come out with an impressive plant supplement called
>>Flourish Excel. It's a 2-carbon molecule that plants can take up and
>>use in place of CO2. Even better, algae can't use it. Seachem claims
>>about 70% of the growth than with C02. With CF lighting and Excel, I'm
>>now able to keep fabulous little 2 gallon planted tanks, which I
>>couldn't do 10 years ago. Excel would be good for your brackish tank
>>since the KH will be high.
>>
>>>
>>> Many thanks,
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>