The best/most practical primer for pumps/canister filters....

[Daniel Morrow]

The best pump/canister filter primer I can come up with that is practical is
by using a hand-squeeze plastic siphon and some 5/8 inch and 1/2 inch
flexible tubing. Use it like this like mine for example: I connect the
outlet tube from the siphon to the inlet hose of my fluval 404 and submerse
the inlet hose/outlet of the siphon. Then squeeze pump until water comes out
of the fluval 404's outlet hose. Make sure a good amount of water does come
out. If you run the canister filter on it's side normally then turn the
canister filter over opposite it's operating position, pump/fill the
canister, put the intake from the fluval 404 into the water like if it's
running like normal then turn the fluval 404 back over into it's normal
operating position and then turn on the fluval 404 filter. It should have
been fully primed after pumping/filling it with the siphon and the fluval
404 should work perfectly now. Use the 1/2 inch hose (a small length of it
actually) by putting it on the end of the output connection on the siphon
and then use a lengthy piece of 5/8 inch hose on top of the 1/2 inch hose
(the 1/2 inch hose in this case is only used to convert the output of the
siphon to 5/8 so you can use 5/8 tubing and you want to use 5/8 tubing to
plug into the fluval 404 intake hose snugly) and use a length of 5/8 tubing
to the input of the siphon and the other end to be submersed in the water. I
used a clean plastic home improvement siphon normally used for kerosene
(only use if it isn't toxic and make sure it is clean to boot), and it was
cheap from ace hardware, approximately $07.00 us dollars. I have previously
tried a ton of other methods without any reliable success. I even this
afternoon tried the old built in primer on the fluval 404 and after 10
minutes of my primer workout gave up on it. The previous method I stated
here is totally reliable and practical. I even got a big blister on my right
index finger from trying to use the built in primer on the fluval 404 (the
blister is filled with fluid now) for those 10 minutes I mentioned. Every
one with a use for this tip should go for it - it will save your fingers at
the very least and will probably actually let you use your fluval 404 which
is most important. Good luck all and I hope this helps at the very least one
person (gill?, I remember you had to use your built in primer for 5 minutes
straight just t get your fluval 404 to work....).

[Gill Passman]

Daniel Morrow wrote:
> The best pump/canister filter primer I can come up with that is practical is
> by using a hand-squeeze plastic siphon and some 5/8 inch and 1/2 inch
> flexible tubing. Use it like this like mine for example: I connect the
> outlet tube from the siphon to the inlet hose of my fluval 404 and submerse
> the inlet hose/outlet of the siphon. Then squeeze pump until water comes out
> of the fluval 404's outlet hose. Make sure a good amount of water does come
> out. If you run the canister filter on it's side normally then turn the
> canister filter over opposite it's operating position, pump/fill the
> canister, put the intake from the fluval 404 into the water like if it's
> running like normal then turn the fluval 404 back over into it's normal
> operating position and then turn on the fluval 404 filter. It should have
> been fully primed after pumping/filling it with the siphon and the fluval
> 404 should work perfectly now. Use the 1/2 inch hose (a small length of it
> actually) by putting it on the end of the output connection on the siphon
> and then use a lengthy piece of 5/8 inch hose on top of the 1/2 inch hose
> (the 1/2 inch hose in this case is only used to convert the output of the
> siphon to 5/8 so you can use 5/8 tubing and you want to use 5/8 tubing to
> plug into the fluval 404 intake hose snugly) and use a length of 5/8 tubing
> to the input of the siphon and the other end to be submersed in the water. I
> used a clean plastic home improvement siphon normally used for kerosene
> (only use if it isn't toxic and make sure it is clean to boot), and it was
> cheap from ace hardware, approximately $07.00 us dollars. I have previously
> tried a ton of other methods without any reliable success. I even this
> afternoon tried the old built in primer on the fluval 404 and after 10
> minutes of my primer workout gave up on it. The previous method I stated
> here is totally reliable and practical. I even got a big blister on my right
> index finger from trying to use the built in primer on the fluval 404 (the
> blister is filled with fluid now) for those 10 minutes I mentioned. Every
> one with a use for this tip should go for it - it will save your fingers at
> the very least and will probably actually let you use your fluval 404 which
> is most important. Good luck all and I hope this helps at the very least one
> person (gill?, I remember you had to use your built in primer for 5 minutes
> straight just t get your fluval 404 to work....).
>
>

Hi Daniel,

It was the faulty 304 that used to have to be primed everytime it was
switched off for maintenance and then took a good 5 mins plus to get it
working when it failed and this was when it was full of water. This has
been switched out for a 404.

I emptied out the 304 on my Malawi tank yesterday to give it a good
clean - even found a fish in one of the canisters (around 0.5cms - put
it in the tank and it seems to be none the worse for its strange start
in life). I filled it 3/4 up with conditioned water and it took a couple
of mins max to prime which wasn't too bad

Gill

[Daniel Morrow]

"Gill Passman" > wrote in message
.. .
> Daniel Morrow wrote:
> > The best pump/canister filter primer I can come up with that is
practical is
> > by using a hand-squeeze plastic siphon and some 5/8 inch and 1/2 inch
> > flexible tubing. Use it like this like mine for example: I connect the
> > outlet tube from the siphon to the inlet hose of my fluval 404 and
submerse
> > the inlet hose/outlet of the siphon. Then squeeze pump until water comes
out
> > of the fluval 404's outlet hose. Make sure a good amount of water does
come
> > out. If you run the canister filter on it's side normally then turn the
> > canister filter over opposite it's operating position, pump/fill the
> > canister, put the intake from the fluval 404 into the water like if it's
> > running like normal then turn the fluval 404 back over into it's normal
> > operating position and then turn on the fluval 404 filter. It should
have
> > been fully primed after pumping/filling it with the siphon and the
fluval
> > 404 should work perfectly now. Use the 1/2 inch hose (a small length of
it
> > actually) by putting it on the end of the output connection on the
siphon
> > and then use a lengthy piece of 5/8 inch hose on top of the 1/2 inch
hose
> > (the 1/2 inch hose in this case is only used to convert the output of
the
> > siphon to 5/8 so you can use 5/8 tubing and you want to use 5/8 tubing
to
> > plug into the fluval 404 intake hose snugly) and use a length of 5/8
tubing
> > to the input of the siphon and the other end to be submersed in the
water. I
> > used a clean plastic home improvement siphon normally used for kerosene
> > (only use if it isn't toxic and make sure it is clean to boot), and it
was
> > cheap from ace hardware, approximately $07.00 us dollars. I have
previously
> > tried a ton of other methods without any reliable success. I even this
> > afternoon tried the old built in primer on the fluval 404 and after 10
> > minutes of my primer workout gave up on it. The previous method I stated
> > here is totally reliable and practical. I even got a big blister on my
right
> > index finger from trying to use the built in primer on the fluval 404
(the
> > blister is filled with fluid now) for those 10 minutes I mentioned.
Every
> > one with a use for this tip should go for it - it will save your fingers
at
> > the very least and will probably actually let you use your fluval 404
which
> > is most important. Good luck all and I hope this helps at the very least
one
> > person (gill?, I remember you had to use your built in primer for 5
minutes
> > straight just t get your fluval 404 to work....).
> >
> >
>
> Hi Daniel,
>
> It was the faulty 304 that used to have to be primed everytime it was
> switched off for maintenance and then took a good 5 mins plus to get it
> working when it failed and this was when it was full of water. This has
> been switched out for a 404.
>
> I emptied out the 304 on my Malawi tank yesterday to give it a good
> clean - even found a fish in one of the canisters (around 0.5cms - put
> it in the tank and it seems to be none the worse for its strange start
> in life). I filled it 3/4 up with conditioned water and it took a couple
> of mins max to prime which wasn't too bad
>
> Gill

Interesting story - glad to hear you are getting better performance out of
the new one. Just to over clarify - with my method the water needs to be
"pushed" into the fluval msf filter with the squeeze bulb siphon pump and
tubing not "pulled". Funny - I actually have 2 blisters from the built in
primer from yesterday and some miscellaneous splits on some of my other
fingers including one that might be minorly infected (not to gross anyone
out but a little bit of brown fluid just came out), man - talk about an
experience with the built in primer!

By the way - my method also cleans out the tubing and canister and helps
restore like-new performance to the fluval msf filters.

Later all!

[NetMax]

"Daniel Morrow" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Gill Passman" > wrote in message
> .. .
>> Daniel Morrow wrote:
>> > The best pump/canister filter primer I can come up with that is
> practical is
>> > by using a hand-squeeze plastic siphon and some 5/8 inch and 1/2
>> > inch
>> > flexible tubing. Use it like this like mine for example: I connect
>> > the
>> > outlet tube from the siphon to the inlet hose of my fluval 404 and
> submerse
>> > the inlet hose/outlet of the siphon. Then squeeze pump until water
>> > comes
> out
>> > of the fluval 404's outlet hose. Make sure a good amount of water
>> > does
> come
>> > out. If you run the canister filter on it's side normally then turn
>> > the
>> > canister filter over opposite it's operating position, pump/fill the
>> > canister, put the intake from the fluval 404 into the water like if
>> > it's
>> > running like normal then turn the fluval 404 back over into it's
>> > normal
>> > operating position and then turn on the fluval 404 filter. It should
> have
>> > been fully primed after pumping/filling it with the siphon and the
> fluval
>> > 404 should work perfectly now. Use the 1/2 inch hose (a small length
>> > of
> it
>> > actually) by putting it on the end of the output connection on the
> siphon
>> > and then use a lengthy piece of 5/8 inch hose on top of the 1/2 inch
> hose
>> > (the 1/2 inch hose in this case is only used to convert the output
>> > of
> the
>> > siphon to 5/8 so you can use 5/8 tubing and you want to use 5/8
>> > tubing
> to
>> > plug into the fluval 404 intake hose snugly) and use a length of 5/8
> tubing
>> > to the input of the siphon and the other end to be submersed in the
> water. I
>> > used a clean plastic home improvement siphon normally used for
>> > kerosene
>> > (only use if it isn't toxic and make sure it is clean to boot), and
>> > it
> was
>> > cheap from ace hardware, approximately $07.00 us dollars. I have
> previously
>> > tried a ton of other methods without any reliable success. I even
>> > this
>> > afternoon tried the old built in primer on the fluval 404 and after
>> > 10
>> > minutes of my primer workout gave up on it. The previous method I
>> > stated
>> > here is totally reliable and practical. I even got a big blister on
>> > my
> right
>> > index finger from trying to use the built in primer on the fluval
>> > 404
> (the
>> > blister is filled with fluid now) for those 10 minutes I mentioned.
> Every
>> > one with a use for this tip should go for it - it will save your
>> > fingers
> at
>> > the very least and will probably actually let you use your fluval
>> > 404
> which
>> > is most important. Good luck all and I hope this helps at the very
>> > least
> one
>> > person (gill?, I remember you had to use your built in primer for 5
> minutes
>> > straight just t get your fluval 404 to work....).
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Hi Daniel,
>>
>> It was the faulty 304 that used to have to be primed everytime it was
>> switched off for maintenance and then took a good 5 mins plus to get
>> it
>> working when it failed and this was when it was full of water. This
>> has
>> been switched out for a 404.
>>
>> I emptied out the 304 on my Malawi tank yesterday to give it a good
>> clean - even found a fish in one of the canisters (around 0.5cms - put
>> it in the tank and it seems to be none the worse for its strange start
>> in life). I filled it 3/4 up with conditioned water and it took a
>> couple
>> of mins max to prime which wasn't too bad
>>
>> Gill
>
> Interesting story - glad to hear you are getting better performance out
> of
> the new one. Just to over clarify - with my method the water needs to
> be
> "pushed" into the fluval msf filter with the squeeze bulb siphon pump
> and
> tubing not "pulled". Funny - I actually have 2 blisters from the built
> in
> primer from yesterday and some miscellaneous splits on some of my other
> fingers including one that might be minorly infected (not to gross
> anyone
> out but a little bit of brown fluid just came out), man - talk about an
> experience with the built in primer!
>
> By the way - my method also cleans out the tubing and canister and
> helps
> restore like-new performance to the fluval msf filters.
>
> Later all!


I might save you a little trouble if you are trying to figure out the
characteristics of a Fluval primer, as I've used many of these filters,
mostly the new 304 and 404s.

Primer operation is not consistent between units. I've had side by side
404s, where one primed instantly, the other resisted. In one case, after
several minutes of trying to prime one I was interrupted by a customer
and when I returned several minutes later, it had self-primed.

Some self-prime well if the filter body is well filled with water. On
others, install with filter body empty. The difference might be the
length/routing of the hoses which allows the water to quickly enter when
the valve is opened.

At its best, the Fluval primer is often adequate, at its worst, the
primer handle is cosmetic ;~), but it allowed them to advertise they have
a primer. Many canisters don't include a primer, so maybe it's not that
big a deal. If you find that the primer is not working, leave it alone
for a while. You'll have a better chance of playing with the hoses (air
entrapment), spraying water into a hose (see below) or just leaving it
alone for a few minutes before re-trying (jmo).

The stars must been in alignment as my all my canisters restart easily
right now, but my foolproof method is very similar to Daniel's method.
Typically you have a garden hose with running water at around the time
you are re-starting your canister. I spray water into the canister's
return hose. When air bubbles stop coming out the intake, the canister
is full and you can plug it in.

The disadvantage to this method is that you should have luke-warm water
running in the hose, and hopefully without chloramines. I used this at
the store (carbon filtered tap water) and at home (non-chloramined well
water) but never tried it with municipal water, so ymmv. If you're
worried, then use a powerhead, tank water and a short length of tube to
achieve the same result. Works for all canisters (don't forget to open
the shut-off valves ;~).
--
www.NetMax.tk

[Daniel Morrow]

Bottom posted.


"NetMax" > wrote in message
. ..
> "Daniel Morrow" > wrote in message
> ...
> >
> > "Gill Passman" > wrote in message
> > .. .
> >> Daniel Morrow wrote:
> >> > The best pump/canister filter primer I can come up with that is
> > practical is
> >> > by using a hand-squeeze plastic siphon and some 5/8 inch and 1/2
> >> > inch
> >> > flexible tubing. Use it like this like mine for example: I connect
> >> > the
> >> > outlet tube from the siphon to the inlet hose of my fluval 404 and
> > submerse
> >> > the inlet hose/outlet of the siphon. Then squeeze pump until water
> >> > comes
> > out
> >> > of the fluval 404's outlet hose. Make sure a good amount of water
> >> > does
> > come
> >> > out. If you run the canister filter on it's side normally then turn
> >> > the
> >> > canister filter over opposite it's operating position, pump/fill the
> >> > canister, put the intake from the fluval 404 into the water like if
> >> > it's
> >> > running like normal then turn the fluval 404 back over into it's
> >> > normal
> >> > operating position and then turn on the fluval 404 filter. It should
> > have
> >> > been fully primed after pumping/filling it with the siphon and the
> > fluval
> >> > 404 should work perfectly now. Use the 1/2 inch hose (a small length
> >> > of
> > it
> >> > actually) by putting it on the end of the output connection on the
> > siphon
> >> > and then use a lengthy piece of 5/8 inch hose on top of the 1/2 inch
> > hose
> >> > (the 1/2 inch hose in this case is only used to convert the output
> >> > of
> > the
> >> > siphon to 5/8 so you can use 5/8 tubing and you want to use 5/8
> >> > tubing
> > to
> >> > plug into the fluval 404 intake hose snugly) and use a length of 5/8
> > tubing
> >> > to the input of the siphon and the other end to be submersed in the
> > water. I
> >> > used a clean plastic home improvement siphon normally used for
> >> > kerosene
> >> > (only use if it isn't toxic and make sure it is clean to boot), and
> >> > it
> > was
> >> > cheap from ace hardware, approximately $07.00 us dollars. I have
> > previously
> >> > tried a ton of other methods without any reliable success. I even
> >> > this
> >> > afternoon tried the old built in primer on the fluval 404 and after
> >> > 10
> >> > minutes of my primer workout gave up on it. The previous method I
> >> > stated
> >> > here is totally reliable and practical. I even got a big blister on
> >> > my
> > right
> >> > index finger from trying to use the built in primer on the fluval
> >> > 404
> > (the
> >> > blister is filled with fluid now) for those 10 minutes I mentioned.
> > Every
> >> > one with a use for this tip should go for it - it will save your
> >> > fingers
> > at
> >> > the very least and will probably actually let you use your fluval
> >> > 404
> > which
> >> > is most important. Good luck all and I hope this helps at the very
> >> > least
> > one
> >> > person (gill?, I remember you had to use your built in primer for 5
> > minutes
> >> > straight just t get your fluval 404 to work....).
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >> Hi Daniel,
> >>
> >> It was the faulty 304 that used to have to be primed everytime it was
> >> switched off for maintenance and then took a good 5 mins plus to get
> >> it
> >> working when it failed and this was when it was full of water. This
> >> has
> >> been switched out for a 404.
> >>
> >> I emptied out the 304 on my Malawi tank yesterday to give it a good
> >> clean - even found a fish in one of the canisters (around 0.5cms - put
> >> it in the tank and it seems to be none the worse for its strange start
> >> in life). I filled it 3/4 up with conditioned water and it took a
> >> couple
> >> of mins max to prime which wasn't too bad
> >>
> >> Gill
> >
> > Interesting story - glad to hear you are getting better performance out
> > of
> > the new one. Just to over clarify - with my method the water needs to
> > be
> > "pushed" into the fluval msf filter with the squeeze bulb siphon pump
> > and
> > tubing not "pulled". Funny - I actually have 2 blisters from the built
> > in
> > primer from yesterday and some miscellaneous splits on some of my other
> > fingers including one that might be minorly infected (not to gross
> > anyone
> > out but a little bit of brown fluid just came out), man - talk about an
> > experience with the built in primer!
> >
> > By the way - my method also cleans out the tubing and canister and
> > helps
> > restore like-new performance to the fluval msf filters.
> >
> > Later all!
>
>
> I might save you a little trouble if you are trying to figure out the
> characteristics of a Fluval primer, as I've used many of these filters,
> mostly the new 304 and 404s.
>
> Primer operation is not consistent between units. I've had side by side
> 404s, where one primed instantly, the other resisted. In one case, after
> several minutes of trying to prime one I was interrupted by a customer
> and when I returned several minutes later, it had self-primed.
>
> Some self-prime well if the filter body is well filled with water. On
> others, install with filter body empty. The difference might be the
> length/routing of the hoses which allows the water to quickly enter when
> the valve is opened.
>
> At its best, the Fluval primer is often adequate, at its worst, the
> primer handle is cosmetic ;~), but it allowed them to advertise they have
> a primer. Many canisters don't include a primer, so maybe it's not that
> big a deal. If you find that the primer is not working, leave it alone
> for a while. You'll have a better chance of playing with the hoses (air
> entrapment), spraying water into a hose (see below) or just leaving it
> alone for a few minutes before re-trying (jmo).
>
> The stars must been in alignment as my all my canisters restart easily
> right now, but my foolproof method is very similar to Daniel's method.
> Typically you have a garden hose with running water at around the time
> you are re-starting your canister. I spray water into the canister's
> return hose. When air bubbles stop coming out the intake, the canister
> is full and you can plug it in.
>
> The disadvantage to this method is that you should have luke-warm water
> running in the hose, and hopefully without chloramines. I used this at
> the store (carbon filtered tap water) and at home (non-chloramined well
> water) but never tried it with municipal water, so ymmv. If you're
> worried, then use a powerhead, tank water and a short length of tube to
> achieve the same result. Works for all canisters (don't forget to open
> the shut-off valves ;~).
> --
> www.NetMax.tk
>
>
That's good information netmax - thanks!. I think I have one of the very
stubborn 404's myself. I am afraid to say that I feel proud of my method
(very similar to what I think is now a popular method to renew airstones) as
it is easy and will work with any pump/canister filter. I just love my
method. I recommend it to anyone as for one thing it is so easy.

I've tried the powerhead method and find it doesn't work very well with my
shallow turtle tank especially when I try to keep fry out of the powerhead
while doing it. With my method I don't have to worry about fry getting in as
I can just rubber band a wad of filter material over the intake and I don't
have to worry about the water being too hot or too cold, etc.. I am a bit
surprised aquarium pharmaceuticals doesn't use my method with there canister
filters. My method would not cost much more to include with their filter -
so all of you with one of those filters use my method if you don't like the
mess with the funnel + water method.

Good luck, and later all!

[Gill Passman]

Daniel Morrow wrote:
> Bottom posted.
>
>
> "NetMax" > wrote in message
> . ..
>
>>"Daniel Morrow" > wrote in message
...
>>
>>>"Gill Passman" > wrote in message
.. .
>>>
>>>>Daniel Morrow wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>The best pump/canister filter primer I can come up with that is
>>>
>>>practical is
>>>
>>>>>by using a hand-squeeze plastic siphon and some 5/8 inch and 1/2
>>>>>inch
>>>>>flexible tubing. Use it like this like mine for example: I connect
>>>>>the
>>>>>outlet tube from the siphon to the inlet hose of my fluval 404 and
>>>
>>>submerse
>>>
>>>>>the inlet hose/outlet of the siphon. Then squeeze pump until water
>>>>>comes
>>>
>>>out
>>>
>>>>>of the fluval 404's outlet hose. Make sure a good amount of water
>>>>>does
>>>
>>>come
>>>
>>>>>out. If you run the canister filter on it's side normally then turn
>>>>>the
>>>>>canister filter over opposite it's operating position, pump/fill the
>>>>>canister, put the intake from the fluval 404 into the water like if
>>>>>it's
>>>>>running like normal then turn the fluval 404 back over into it's
>>>>>normal
>>>>>operating position and then turn on the fluval 404 filter. It should
>>>
>>>have
>>>
>>>>>been fully primed after pumping/filling it with the siphon and the
>>>
>>>fluval
>>>
>>>>>404 should work perfectly now. Use the 1/2 inch hose (a small length
>>>>>of
>>>
>>>it
>>>
>>>>>actually) by putting it on the end of the output connection on the
>>>
>>>siphon
>>>
>>>>>and then use a lengthy piece of 5/8 inch hose on top of the 1/2 inch
>>>
>>>hose
>>>
>>>>>(the 1/2 inch hose in this case is only used to convert the output
>>>>>of
>>>
>>>the
>>>
>>>>>siphon to 5/8 so you can use 5/8 tubing and you want to use 5/8
>>>>>tubing
>>>
>>>to
>>>
>>>>>plug into the fluval 404 intake hose snugly) and use a length of 5/8
>>>
>>>tubing
>>>
>>>>>to the input of the siphon and the other end to be submersed in the
>>>
>>>water. I
>>>
>>>>>used a clean plastic home improvement siphon normally used for
>>>>>kerosene
>>>>>(only use if it isn't toxic and make sure it is clean to boot), and
>>>>>it
>>>
>>>was
>>>
>>>>>cheap from ace hardware, approximately $07.00 us dollars. I have
>>>
>>>previously
>>>
>>>>>tried a ton of other methods without any reliable success. I even
>>>>>this
>>>>>afternoon tried the old built in primer on the fluval 404 and after
>>>>>10
>>>>>minutes of my primer workout gave up on it. The previous method I
>>>>>stated
>>>>>here is totally reliable and practical. I even got a big blister on
>>>>>my
>>>
>>>right
>>>
>>>>>index finger from trying to use the built in primer on the fluval
>>>>>404
>>>
>>>(the
>>>
>>>>>blister is filled with fluid now) for those 10 minutes I mentioned.
>>>
>>>Every
>>>
>>>>>one with a use for this tip should go for it - it will save your
>>>>>fingers
>>>
>>>at
>>>
>>>>>the very least and will probably actually let you use your fluval
>>>>>404
>>>
>>>which
>>>
>>>>>is most important. Good luck all and I hope this helps at the very
>>>>>least
>>>
>>>one
>>>
>>>>>person (gill?, I remember you had to use your built in primer for 5
>>>
>>>minutes
>>>
>>>>>straight just t get your fluval 404 to work....).
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Hi Daniel,
>>>>
>>>>It was the faulty 304 that used to have to be primed everytime it was
>>>>switched off for maintenance and then took a good 5 mins plus to get
>>>>it
>>>>working when it failed and this was when it was full of water. This
>>>>has
>>>>been switched out for a 404.
>>>>
>>>>I emptied out the 304 on my Malawi tank yesterday to give it a good
>>>>clean - even found a fish in one of the canisters (around 0.5cms - put
>>>>it in the tank and it seems to be none the worse for its strange start
>>>>in life). I filled it 3/4 up with conditioned water and it took a
>>>>couple
>>>>of mins max to prime which wasn't too bad
>>>>
>>>>Gill
>>>
>>>Interesting story - glad to hear you are getting better performance out
>>>of
>>>the new one. Just to over clarify - with my method the water needs to
>>>be
>>>"pushed" into the fluval msf filter with the squeeze bulb siphon pump
>>>and
>>>tubing not "pulled". Funny - I actually have 2 blisters from the built
>>>in
>>>primer from yesterday and some miscellaneous splits on some of my other
>>>fingers including one that might be minorly infected (not to gross
>>>anyone
>>>out but a little bit of brown fluid just came out), man - talk about an
>>>experience with the built in primer!
>>>
>>>By the way - my method also cleans out the tubing and canister and
>>>helps
>>>restore like-new performance to the fluval msf filters.
>>>
>>>Later all!
>>
>>
>>I might save you a little trouble if you are trying to figure out the
>>characteristics of a Fluval primer, as I've used many of these filters,
>>mostly the new 304 and 404s.
>>
>>Primer operation is not consistent between units. I've had side by side
>>404s, where one primed instantly, the other resisted. In one case, after
>>several minutes of trying to prime one I was interrupted by a customer
>>and when I returned several minutes later, it had self-primed.
>>
>>Some self-prime well if the filter body is well filled with water. On
>>others, install with filter body empty. The difference might be the
>>length/routing of the hoses which allows the water to quickly enter when
>>the valve is opened.
>>
>>At its best, the Fluval primer is often adequate, at its worst, the
>>primer handle is cosmetic ;~), but it allowed them to advertise they have
>>a primer. Many canisters don't include a primer, so maybe it's not that
>>big a deal. If you find that the primer is not working, leave it alone
>>for a while. You'll have a better chance of playing with the hoses (air
>>entrapment), spraying water into a hose (see below) or just leaving it
>>alone for a few minutes before re-trying (jmo).
>>
>>The stars must been in alignment as my all my canisters restart easily
>>right now, but my foolproof method is very similar to Daniel's method.
>>Typically you have a garden hose with running water at around the time
>>you are re-starting your canister. I spray water into the canister's
>>return hose. When air bubbles stop coming out the intake, the canister
>>is full and you can plug it in.
>>
>>The disadvantage to this method is that you should have luke-warm water
>>running in the hose, and hopefully without chloramines. I used this at
>>the store (carbon filtered tap water) and at home (non-chloramined well
>>water) but never tried it with municipal water, so ymmv. If you're
>>worried, then use a powerhead, tank water and a short length of tube to
>>achieve the same result. Works for all canisters (don't forget to open
>>the shut-off valves ;~).
>>--
>>www.NetMax.tk
>>
>>
>
> That's good information netmax - thanks!. I think I have one of the very
> stubborn 404's myself. I am afraid to say that I feel proud of my method
> (very similar to what I think is now a popular method to renew airstones) as
> it is easy and will work with any pump/canister filter. I just love my
> method. I recommend it to anyone as for one thing it is so easy.
>
> I've tried the powerhead method and find it doesn't work very well with my
> shallow turtle tank especially when I try to keep fry out of the powerhead
> while doing it. With my method I don't have to worry about fry getting in as
> I can just rubber band a wad of filter material over the intake and I don't
> have to worry about the water being too hot or too cold, etc.. I am a bit
> surprised aquarium pharmaceuticals doesn't use my method with there canister
> filters. My method would not cost much more to include with their filter -
> so all of you with one of those filters use my method if you don't like the
> mess with the funnel + water method.
>
> Good luck, and later all!
>
>
BTW forgot to plug in my 404 yesterday after a clean out - remembered 2
hours later (got distracted by child)...took 3 mins of priming to get it
going again...maybe it might have started without but I was concerned
about burning it out...

Cheers
Gill (with biceps growing every minute - lol)

[NetMax]

"Gill Passman" > wrote in message
.. .
> Daniel Morrow wrote:
>> Bottom posted.
>>
>>
>> "NetMax" > wrote in message
>> . ..
>>
>>>"Daniel Morrow" > wrote in message
...
>>>
>>>>"Gill Passman" > wrote in message
<snip>
>>
>>
> BTW forgot to plug in my 404 yesterday after a clean out - remembered 2
> hours later (got distracted by child)...took 3 mins of priming to get it
> going again...maybe it might have started without but I was concerned
> about burning it out...
>
> Cheers
> Gill (with biceps growing every minute - lol)

A comment (like I need an excuse to post ;~), if your canister filter is off
longer than about 20 minutes, you should consider the water inside as
undesirable, as it's going toxic (anaerobic bacteria taking over, generating
nasty stuff). Let the first few minutes of water flow into a waiting pail
for disposal. If the water smells a little like rotten eggs, then you saved
some fish from sulphide poisoning.
--
www.NetMax.tk

[Gill Passman]

NetMax wrote:
> "Gill Passman" > wrote in message
> .. .
>
>>Daniel Morrow wrote:
>>
>>>Bottom posted.
>>>
>>>
>>>"NetMax" > wrote in message
. ..
>>>
>>>
>>>>"Daniel Morrow" > wrote in message
...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>"Gill Passman" > wrote in message
>
> <snip>
>
>>>
>>BTW forgot to plug in my 404 yesterday after a clean out - remembered 2
>>hours later (got distracted by child)...took 3 mins of priming to get it
>>going again...maybe it might have started without but I was concerned
>>about burning it out...
>>
>>Cheers
>>Gill (with biceps growing every minute - lol)
>
>
> A comment (like I need an excuse to post ;~), if your canister filter is off
> longer than about 20 minutes, you should consider the water inside as
> undesirable, as it's going toxic (anaerobic bacteria taking over, generating
> nasty stuff). Let the first few minutes of water flow into a waiting pail
> for disposal. If the water smells a little like rotten eggs, then you saved
> some fish from sulphide poisoning.


No smells so OK...just as a question what would you advocate in the case
of a power outage? If it happens over night or during the working day
potentially the filter could be off for a lot longer than 20 mins and
start up again without anyone being any the wiser...

Gill

[NetMax]

"Gill Passman" > wrote in message
.. .
> NetMax wrote:
>> "Gill Passman" > wrote in message
>> .. .
>>
>>>Daniel Morrow wrote:
>>>
>>>>Bottom posted.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>"NetMax" > wrote in message
. ..
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>"Daniel Morrow" > wrote in message
...
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>"Gill Passman" > wrote in message
>>
>> <snip>
>>
>>>>
>>>BTW forgot to plug in my 404 yesterday after a clean out - remembered 2
>>>hours later (got distracted by child)...took 3 mins of priming to get it
>>>going again...maybe it might have started without but I was concerned
>>>about burning it out...
>>>
>>>Cheers
>>>Gill (with biceps growing every minute - lol)
>>
>>
>> A comment (like I need an excuse to post ;~), if your canister filter is
>> off longer than about 20 minutes, you should consider the water inside as
>> undesirable, as it's going toxic (anaerobic bacteria taking over,
>> generating nasty stuff). Let the first few minutes of water flow into a
>> waiting pail for disposal. If the water smells a little like rotten
>> eggs, then you saved some fish from sulphide poisoning.
>
>
> No smells so OK...just as a question what would you advocate in the case
> of a power outage? If it happens over night or during the working day
> potentially the filter could be off for a lot longer than 20 mins and
> start up again without anyone being any the wiser...
>
> Gill

If you are there and know it will be a long black-out, pull the sponges out
of the canister, rinse and float in tank.

If you are not there, and want a fail-safe method, connect a 12V bilge pump
in series with the canister hoses. Connect the 12V wires to a
boat/motorcycle battery through a relay which is held in an open position by
your house electricity (relay requires an ac coil). When you have a
black-out, the relay will close and the battery will turn on the bilge pump
(they are about the size and cost of a powerhead).

If the power comes on, pushes bad water into the tank and you see signs of
distress, then water changes and lots of aeration are all I know to use.
I'm not sure what signs to look for, as I haven't poisoned enough fish and
species might react differently. The effect is quite noticeable if the
water is very bad (filter off for days) on the closest fish to the water's
output (fatal). Short black-outs should not have any effect. I think the
sequence is the aerobic bacteria start shutting down as the O2 is consumed,
then they go dormant, then they start dying and adding to the other organic
matter decomposing causing an increase in anaerobic bacteria, whose
by-product is noxious (biologists should feel free to correct my layman
concepts). I suppose the timeline would depend on how heavily loaded the
filter is with organic matter (another reason to keep to light fish-loads or
have multiple filter types). Sponge filters, UGFs, RUGFs and any other
filter whose media is mostly underwater are less affected by power
interruptions. Powerfilters are not too bad, but canisters are the worse,
having no contact with the air. hth :o)
--
www.NetMax.tk

[Daniel Morrow]

Bottom posted.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Gill Passman" >
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria.freshwater.misc
Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2005 3:10 AM
Subject: Re: The best/most practical primer for pumps/canister filters....


> NetMax wrote:
> > "Gill Passman" > wrote in message
> > .. .
> >
> >>Daniel Morrow wrote:
> >>
> >>>Bottom posted.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>"NetMax" > wrote in message
> . ..
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>"Daniel Morrow" > wrote in message
> ...
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>"Gill Passman" > wrote in message
> >
> > <snip>
> >
> >>>
> >>BTW forgot to plug in my 404 yesterday after a clean out - remembered 2
> >>hours later (got distracted by child)...took 3 mins of priming to get it
> >>going again...maybe it might have started without but I was concerned
> >>about burning it out...
> >>
> >>Cheers
> >>Gill (with biceps growing every minute - lol)
> >
> >
> > A comment (like I need an excuse to post ;~), if your canister filter is
off
> > longer than about 20 minutes, you should consider the water inside as
> > undesirable, as it's going toxic (anaerobic bacteria taking over,
generating
> > nasty stuff). Let the first few minutes of water flow into a waiting
pail
> > for disposal. If the water smells a little like rotten eggs, then you
saved
> > some fish from sulphide poisoning.
>
>
> No smells so OK...just as a question what would you advocate in the case
> of a power outage? If it happens over night or during the working day
> potentially the filter could be off for a lot longer than 20 mins and
> start up again without anyone being any the wiser...
>
> Gill

One way to tell if the power has been off while you're away and come back
is to plug in a digital clock (red led lights off example) without battery
backup/retention and if it blinks when you come back it means the power had
been off while you were gone. Just an idea - and I hope it helps! Later!