How to regenerate "KENT Mixed Bed Resin Cartridge"?

[Pszemol]

I am talking about KENT deionization stage of multistage RO filter.

Is there a way to regenerate its functions to the original level
by treating with chloride acid (or other solution) or the only way
is to buy the new catridge and replace old one with it?
It is not very expensive, but throwing this away seems like a big
waste and Mother Nature will hate me for not seeking other options ;-)

[ljtellef]

I have heard you can do this Muratic acid, but do not recall the procedure.
You should be able to find a generic procedure by searching on altavista.

My concern would be that you could not get the ends to fit tightly and there
would be resin in your final water. Also, what were you going to do with
the stuff below the floss filter? Is that just carbon?

HTH
LT

"Pszemol" > wrote in message
...
> I am talking about KENT deionization stage of multistage RO filter.
>
> Is there a way to regenerate its functions to the original level
> by treating with chloride acid (or other solution) or the only way
> is to buy the new catridge and replace old one with it?
> It is not very expensive, but throwing this away seems like a big
> waste and Mother Nature will hate me for not seeking other options ;-)

[Dragon Slayer]

I've never tried to "regenerate" a DI filter resin. what I have read is
that the chemicals required to do it (and I don't recall what they are at
the moment, I'm sure Boomer will though) are very dangerous to skin and
lungs. doesn't seam worth it to me.

ymmv
kc

"Pszemol" > wrote in message
...
> I am talking about KENT deionization stage of multistage RO filter.
>
> Is there a way to regenerate its functions to the original level
> by treating with chloride acid (or other solution) or the only way
> is to buy the new catridge and replace old one with it?
> It is not very expensive, but throwing this away seems like a big
> waste and Mother Nature will hate me for not seeking other options ;-)

[Boomer]

Yes & No but don't bother....... as it is a "Mixed bed" and you would have to separate all
the different resins and threat each one with x, y or z solution. You would also have to
know what resins they are and I'm sure Kent will not tell you. Kent's Mixed Bed DI's are
suppose to be disposed of once exhausted

--
Boomer

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"Pszemol" > wrote in message ...
: I am talking about KENT deionization stage of multistage RO filter.
:
: Is there a way to regenerate its functions to the original level
: by treating with chloride acid (or other solution) or the only way
: is to buy the new catridge and replace old one with it?
: It is not very expensive, but throwing this away seems like a big
: waste and Mother Nature will hate me for not seeking other options ;-)

[Pszemol]

"Boomer" > wrote in message ...
> Yes & No but don't bother....... as it is a "Mixed bed" and you would have to separate all
> the different resins and threat each one with x, y or z solution. You would also have to
> know what resins they are and I'm sure Kent will not tell you. Kent's Mixed Bed DI's are
> suppose to be disposed of once exhausted

Thanks. I have found on the KENT website they make separate cationic/anionic resins
and market them as "rechargable". I guess since I have exchausted my mixed bed anyway
I could buy one cartridge with first kind and the whole new module (canister+resin)
for the second kind. Then, after both connected serially will exchaust I could try
to regenerate them. Have you seen these resins in any stores? I cannot find them...
I have to write to KENT for this info maybe.

[Pszemol]

"Dragon Slayer" > wrote in message ...
> I've never tried to "regenerate" a DI filter resin. what I have read is
> that the chemicals required to do it (and I don't recall what they are at
> the moment, I'm sure Boomer will though) are very dangerous to skin and
> lungs. doesn't seam worth it to me.

Yes, one of them is 5% HCl, but when you regenerate your resin
you do not drink nor inhale the stuff... ;-)

[Pszemol]

"ljtellef" > wrote in message ...
> My concern would be that you could not get the ends to fit tightly and there
> would be resin in your final water. Also, what were you going to do with
> the stuff below the floss filter? Is that just carbon?

I was planing to put the regeneration fluid in the bucket
and then pour resin balls in it. After a minute or two
I would repeat with fresh fluid and put it back to the cartridge.
Of course my imagination faced reality could be the problem here...
I have no idea if these cartridges are easy to open/close.
Never done it before... :-)

[Pszemol]

"Pszemol" > wrote in message ...
> "Boomer" > wrote in message ...
> > Yes & No but don't bother....... as it is a "Mixed bed" and you would have to separate all
> > the different resins and threat each one with x, y or z solution. You would also have to
> > know what resins they are and I'm sure Kent will not tell you. Kent's Mixed Bed DI's are
> > suppose to be disposed of once exhausted
>
> Thanks. I have found on the KENT website they make separate cationic/anionic resins
> and market them as "rechargable". I guess since I have exchausted my mixed bed anyway
> I could buy one cartridge with first kind and the whole new module (canister+resin)
> for the second kind. Then, after both connected serially will exchaust I could try
> to regenerate them. Have you seen these resins in any stores? I cannot find them...
> I have to write to KENT for this info maybe.

I have found the info on their website http://www.kentmarine.com/MAXRpg2.pdf
Looks like their MAXXIMA-R filter has two regenerable resin cartridges.
They even describe the regeneration process in the document pointed above.
Now, when I know the name of the filter it is used in it should be easier
to get this regenerable resin in stores. Thanks everyone for their input.

p.s. Is there a way to test if the carbon prefilter is still good or need replacement?
This is again a part of my filter which I am told to replace every 6 months, but I am
not sure what is more importand: how much dirty water passes trough it or the time
is was first wet. In my case the filter is not used too much, I am making about 10
gallons a week, so I would expect this carbon prefilter to last much longer than 6 months.

[Charlie Spitzer]

quick. simple. cheap. safe with proper precautions. see
http://archimedes.galilei.com/raiar/ditwp.html

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

"Dragon Slayer" > wrote in message
...
> I've never tried to "regenerate" a DI filter resin. what I have read is
> that the chemicals required to do it (and I don't recall what they are at
> the moment, I'm sure Boomer will though) are very dangerous to skin and
> lungs. doesn't seam worth it to me.
>
> ymmv
> kc
>
> "Pszemol" > wrote in message
> ...
> > I am talking about KENT deionization stage of multistage RO filter.
> >
> > Is there a way to regenerate its functions to the original level
> > by treating with chloride acid (or other solution) or the only way
> > is to buy the new catridge and replace old one with it?
> > It is not very expensive, but throwing this away seems like a big
> > waste and Mother Nature will hate me for not seeking other options ;-)
>
>

[CapFusion]

> p.s. Is there a way to test if the carbon prefilter is still good or need
replacement?
> This is again a part of my filter which I am told to replace every 6
months, but I am
> not sure what is more importand: how much dirty water passes trough it or
the time
> is was first wet. In my case the filter is not used too much, I am making
about 10
> gallons a week, so I would expect this carbon prefilter to last much
longer than 6 months.


When to chang the prefilter is depend on your water where you live. The
general way is to use a TDS to see how efficient your RO [DI] is doing. You
also can tell by the pressure gauge on your RO [if equiped].

Remove the DI if you have one and just measure RO only and read the reading
of your TDS. If it reading like say about 10ppm or so, you can try changing
the prefilter and see if produce better result. If you have like 3- 5ppm, I
would say it ok. You do not want your DI to take on extra load of work due
to prefilter or carbon block.


Note:
For general use, 10ppm would be ok for yourself but I would change if it go
upto 5ppm and the DI will bring it down to near zero. Also check your carbon
block if prefilter is not the cause.

CapFusion,...

[Marc Levenson]

Test your water for chlorine. If anything more that 0 appears, it is time to replace them.

Marc


Pszemol wrote:

> p.s. Is there a way to test if the carbon prefilter is still good or need replacement?
> This is again a part of my filter which I am told to replace every 6 months, but I am
> not sure what is more importand: how much dirty water passes trough it or the time
> is was first wet. In my case the filter is not used too much, I am making about 10
> gallons a week, so I would expect this carbon prefilter to last much longer than 6 months.

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[Pszemol]

"CapFusion" > wrote in message ...
> When to chang the prefilter is depend on your water where you live. The
> general way is to use a TDS to see how efficient your RO [DI] is doing.

How the carbon prefilter influences amount of TDS after RO filter?

> You also can tell by the pressure gauge on your RO [if equiped].

I have pressure gauge - what is the method you are talking about?

> Also check your carbon block if prefilter is not the cause.

I have only one stage prefilter in front of my TFC membrane.
I was told it is activated carbon but since the cartridge
cannot be opened I am not really sure what is inside...

[Pszemol]

"Marc Levenson" > wrote in message ...
> Test your water for chlorine.
> If anything more that 0 appears, it is time to replace them.

Thanks - can you recommend some reliable chlorine tests?

[Charlie Spitzer]

"Pszemol" > wrote in message
...
> "Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
...
> > Test your water for chlorine.
> > If anything more that 0 appears, it is time to replace them.
>
> Thanks - can you recommend some reliable chlorine tests?

pool stores.

[Pszemol]

"Charlie Spitzer" > wrote in message ...
> quick. simple. cheap. safe with proper precautions.
> see http://archimedes.galilei.com/raiar/ditwp.html

Thanks for the link. Have you done it before with this recipe?
What is thi secret way to separate resins? Is it just water? ;-)
From the description I am taking that anion and cation resins
differ in specific weigt, so they will separate when water will
flow up way the column... Am I guessing it right?

And one more thing - acording to some sources mixedbed resins
work better in producing cleaner water than separated resins.
The article states the opposite. Which is true and why?

[Charlie Spitzer]

"Pszemol" > wrote in message
...
> "Charlie Spitzer" > wrote in message
...
> > quick. simple. cheap. safe with proper precautions.
> > see http://archimedes.galilei.com/raiar/ditwp.html
>
> Thanks for the link. Have you done it before with this recipe?

no. i don't use a di. i've heard no one, over the years, state that this was
either hard to do or didn't work. gary's been around these groups pitching
this for at least 5 years, if not longer, although i haven't seen too many
posts from him in the last couple of years.

> What is thi secret way to separate resins? Is it just water? ;-)
> From the description I am taking that anion and cation resins
> differ in specific weigt, so they will separate when water will
> flow up way the column... Am I guessing it right?

yes. different weights will float one type.

>
> And one more thing - acording to some sources mixedbed resins
> work better in producing cleaner water than separated resins.
> The article states the opposite. Which is true and why?

i wouldn't know. i'd bet gary does. his page has his email address. i'd
suggest asking him.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

[Pszemol]

"Charlie Spitzer" > wrote in message ...
> "Pszemol" > wrote in message
> ...
> > "Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
> ...
> > > Test your water for chlorine.
> > > If anything more that 0 appears, it is time to replace them.
> >
> > Thanks - can you recommend some reliable chlorine tests?
>
> pool stores.

Of course!! Thank you... were is my brain!!! ??? ;-)))

[CapFusion]

"Pszemol" > wrote in message
...
> "CapFusion" > wrote in message
...
> > When to chang the prefilter is depend on your water where you live. The
> > general way is to use a TDS to see how efficient your RO [DI] is doing.
>
> How the carbon prefilter influences amount of TDS after RO filter?
>

When prefilter either get clog or have excess of sediment, some of it will
go thru the rest of thes stage. The final result will be higher TDS.


> > You also can tell by the pressure gauge on your RO [if equiped].
>
> I have pressure gauge - what is the method you are talking about?

You can tell how efficient your RO is doing by the gauge. When you first
have your RO, it should be efficent and the gauge indicate higher pressure.
But as time go by, the prefilter lose it efficiency, it pressure will
decrease.


>
> > Also check your carbon block if prefilter is not the cause.
>
> I have only one stage prefilter in front of my TFC membrane.
> I was told it is activated carbon but since the cartridge
> cannot be opened I am not really sure what is inside...

Sorry, I did not realize you have only two stage RO. I assumed you have
something like Marc have.

OT here or buddin'in.....
Why not use a 4 or 5 stage RO/DI setup? This way your DI will not depleted
too fast. The 1 to 4 stage will reduce as much as it can and DI will finish
the last stage. From that, your DI and membrane will last longer and do not
really need to change often. The last time I check, the DI and Membrane are
costly when compare to prefilter [sediment] / carbon block when time to
change it.

According the KENT DION 200R
http://www.petsolutions.com/cgi-bin/cgiitmls?m=ThisP&p=1024.150000&l=37
It just a DI unit with one prefilter that trying to do all the work / load
before DI. Then DI will finish the rest if any sediment pass thru the first
stage.
This is what I am seeing:
Prefilter > Cetiion Rasin > Anion Rasin.

I forgot to mention, when DI need to change by it color indication. I did
not realize this. All DI will need to change when their color change to
reddish-brown tone (?) regardless of original color which indicate
depletion. Typically it will begin changing color from the bottom up (I
think).

CapFusion,...

[CapFusion]

This is the second attempt since the first reply did not answer your
question regarding regenerate DI but to how or when you need to change your
DI.

http://216.239.57.104/search?q=cache:Y6zG94ZnTZYJ:www.trionetics.com/an003.p
df+DI+regenerate&hl=en&ie=UTF-8

Regarding regenerate DI, please copy the whole URL if warped.

http://www.netpets.org/fish/reference/srab/srab4c.html
This above link will tell you how [simple way, wink wink].

CapFusion,...

[Pszemol]

"CapFusion" > wrote in message ...
> When prefilter either get clog or have excess of sediment, some of it will
> go thru the rest of thes stage. The final result will be higher TDS.

OK.

> You can tell how efficient your RO is doing by the gauge. When you first
> have your RO, it should be efficent and the gauge indicate higher pressure.
> But as time go by, the prefilter lose it efficiency, it pressure will
> decrease.

I understand, the gauge is in front of the whole set?

> Sorry, I did not realize you have only two stage RO. I assumed you have
> something like Marc have.
>
> OT here or buddin'in.....
> Why not use a 4 or 5 stage RO/DI setup? This way your DI will not depleted
> too fast. The 1 to 4 stage will reduce as much as it can and DI will finish
> the last stage. From that, your DI and membrane will last longer and do not
> really need to change often. The last time I check, the DI and Membrane are
> costly when compare to prefilter [sediment] / carbon block when time to
> change it.

In my case there is similar situation. Prefilter is actually sediment
filter (10u) and carbon filter in one. Then I have TFC RO membrane.
After that, I added DI based on mixed resin.
I am not sure how do I influence performance of the filter if I sort
resin into two separate parts: cation and anion resin and put them
in the separate canisters... Whould they work better mixed or separated?

> This is the second attempt since the first reply did not answer your
> question regarding regenerate DI but to how or when you need to change
> your DI.
>
> http://216.239.57.104/search?q=cache:Y6zG94ZnTZYJ:www.trionetics.com/an003.pdf+DI+regenerate&hl=en&ie=UTF-8
>
> Regarding regenerate DI, please copy the whole URL if warped.

Thanks. I do not see pictures on this website, do you see them?
Maybe it is because this is archived version...

> http://www.netpets.org/fish/reference/srab/srab4c.html
> This above link will tell you how [simple way, wink wink].

Thank you.

[Marc Levenson]

Regarding DI refills, this local vendor sells DI resin and the clear refillable cartridge, for $20.

http://www.dallasmarine.com/RODI.asp?search=RODI

I believe it is the color-changing kind, but be sure to ask them.

Marc



Pszemol wrote:

> Of course!! Thank you... were is my brain!!! ??? ;-)))

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[Pszemol]

Thank you, I will check it out.

"Marc Levenson" > wrote in message ...
> Regarding DI refills, this local vendor sells DI resin and the clear refillable cartridge, for $20.
>
> http://www.dallasmarine.com/RODI.asp?search=RODI
>
> I believe it is the color-changing kind, but be sure to ask them.
>
> Marc
>
>
>
> Pszemol wrote:
>
> > Of course!! Thank you... were is my brain!!! ??? ;-)))
>
> --
> Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
>
>

[CapFusion]

> > You can tell how efficient your RO is doing by the gauge. When you first
> > have your RO, it should be efficent and the gauge indicate higher
pressure.
> > But as time go by, the prefilter lose it efficiency, it pressure will
> > decrease.
>
> I understand, the gauge is in front of the whole set?
>

My gauge is set on the membrane.


> In my case there is similar situation. Prefilter is actually sediment
> filter (10u) and carbon filter in one. Then I have TFC RO membrane.
> After that, I added DI based on mixed resin.
> I am not sure how do I influence performance of the filter if I sort
> resin into two separate parts: cation and anion resin and put them
> in the separate canisters... Whould they work better mixed or separated?
>

It depend on each person point of view or opinion. I prefer separate.


> > http://www.netpets.org/fish/reference/srab/srab4c.html
> > This above link will tell you how [simple way, wink wink].
>
> Thank you.

Does this above link provide better explaination?

CapFusion,...