Deep or shallow

[RedForeman ©®]

I started out wanting a smaller tank, trying to learn a bit as I go, but
have since had a friend give me a 29g tank, and am debating setting it up
after I read a bit more... I still may do a 10g nano like I intened....

In my readings, I've seen many smaller tanks, and some huge tanks... and one
thing occured to me... tank depth...

Is a shallower tank, less needy of strong light? I've seen a 20g long, that
seemed to do better with 65w, than a 55g did with 275w, and wondered how is
this possible??? Not to get into to many details, I wondered if it was
because of the depth of the 55g, rather than the size, or the stock, or even
the method of setup...

Any thoughts on this?

[Harald]

"RedForeman ©®" > wrote in message
...
> I started out wanting a smaller tank, trying to learn a bit as I go, but
> have since had a friend give me a 29g tank, and am debating setting it up
> after I read a bit more... I still may do a 10g nano like I intened....
>
> In my readings, I've seen many smaller tanks, and some huge tanks... and
one
> thing occured to me... tank depth...
>
> Is a shallower tank, less needy of strong light? I've seen a 20g long,
that
> seemed to do better with 65w, than a 55g did with 275w, and wondered how
is
> this possible??? Not to get into to many details, I wondered if it was
> because of the depth of the 55g, rather than the size, or the stock, or
even
> the method of setup...
>
> Any thoughts on this?
>
>

Depth is an issue when planning your lighting. The amount of light that the
water filters out as the depth increases is something like the square of the
distance...something like that, I can't remember the actual formula right
now.

Maybe Marc knows...

I've got 250W on my 130 right now, but I'm going to replace a 110W fixture
with a 260W fixture on the weekend. That should brighten things up a
little...


--
Harald
130 g Skimmerless SW Tank
290 lbs/6" DSB
70 lbs LR
3 B/G Chromis, 1 Tomato Clown, 1 Lawnmower Blenny, 1 Flame Angel, 1 Foxface.

20 gal Skimmerless SW Nano
80 lbs/6" DSB
31 lbs LR,
1 - 3-Striped damsel, 1 Blue Devil, 1 sm. Tang

[Matthew Comstock]

> Depth is an issue when planning your lighting. The amount of light that the
> water filters out as the depth increases is something like the square of the
> distance...something like that, I can't remember the actual formula right
> now.
Actually the square inverse law has nothing to do with water filtering
light out. since light is expanding in all directions from a point
source, the intensity drops off as the square of the distance. (just
geometry)

Since the water is not 100% clear, you will actually lose a bit more
light than that, but the reflector behind the bulb will add some to the
initial intensity. The inverse square of the distance from the source is
just a decent estimate of the light intensity at a given point.

-mat

[RedForeman ©®]

"Matthew Comstock" > wrote in message
> > Depth is an issue when planning your lighting. The amount of light that
the
> > water filters out as the depth increases is something like the square of
the
> > distance...something like that, I can't remember the actual formula
right
> > now.
> Actually the square inverse law has nothing to do with water filtering
> light out. since light is expanding in all directions from a point
> source, the intensity drops off as the square of the distance. (just
> geometry)

uh... ok....

> Since the water is not 100% clear, you will actually lose a bit more
> light than that, but the reflector behind the bulb will add some to the
> initial intensity. The inverse square of the distance from the source is
> just a decent estimate of the light intensity at a given point.

uh.... huh? jk...

I know deeper req's more light, or more 'intense' light... looking for a
happy medium... a long tank is too shallow for me, and a 29g may be just
right for my use...

I've seen 2x65w PCs, and coralife bulbs being used... and the $ isn't too
terribly bad....

[Marc Levenson]

Basically, it is all about intensity.

The deeper the tank, the further the light must travel to reach those particular
pieces of livestock. Sanjay Yoshi did some very interesting research on
lighting at Macna XIV that I really learned a lot from. Of course, that was 13
months ago, and I can't remember every detail, but I'm going to buy the DVD set
from that event and will rewatch it to refresh those memories.

Red, tell me the dimensions of your tank and what types of corals you plan to
keep.

Marc


"RedForeman ©®" wrote:

> "Matthew Comstock" > wrote in message
> > > Depth is an issue when planning your lighting. The amount of light that
> the
> > > water filters out as the depth increases is something like the square of
> the
> > > distance...something like that, I can't remember the actual formula
> right
> > > now.
> > Actually the square inverse law has nothing to do with water filtering
> > light out. since light is expanding in all directions from a point
> > source, the intensity drops off as the square of the distance. (just
> > geometry)
>
> uh... ok....
>
> > Since the water is not 100% clear, you will actually lose a bit more
> > light than that, but the reflector behind the bulb will add some to the
> > initial intensity. The inverse square of the distance from the source is
> > just a decent estimate of the light intensity at a given point.
>
> uh.... huh? jk...
>
> I know deeper req's more light, or more 'intense' light... looking for a
> happy medium... a long tank is too shallow for me, and a 29g may be just
> right for my use...
>
> I've seen 2x65w PCs, and coralife bulbs being used... and the $ isn't too
> terribly bad....

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[Matthew Comstock]

> uh... ok....
>
>
>>Since the water is not 100% clear, you will actually lose a bit more
>>light than that, but the reflector behind the bulb will add some to the
>>initial intensity. The inverse square of the distance from the source is
>>just a decent estimate of the light intensity at a given point.
>
>
> uh.... huh? jk...
>

Sorry, I thought you were interested in finding the formula so you could
calculate the lights you needed to reach a certain intensity at a
certain depth. That's all the square inverse is good for. If you just
want to know what lights to use, give us tank-size, which corals you
want, and whether you want an anemone or clam.

There are lots of people here who have had MANY different lighting
setups and can give very good advice as to what you will need. (like Marc)

-mat

[~Vicki ~]

I can't remember if you keep live plants in your FW tank, but the same
principles do apply. Marc can tell you that the WPG principles do not
count but intensity does. I have been using the same thinking with my
heavily planted tank with wonderful results. I do not keep corals yet
but find that they run on the same lines as low/moderate/high lighting
as do plants in the FW aquaria. So do a little home work first before
buying anything.

Try your hand at basic fish keeping in the (FO or FOWLR) 29g first and
when you can keep it happy and healthy for a few months then try the 10g
nano. I have a 10g with a little crushed coral, a few blue leg hermits,
three damsels, and a corner filter which has been running almost three
months and never has had a drop of algae in it. I do change 3g of water
a week and test it, but other than that nothing besides feeding the fish
once a day. After Christmas I will start to add soft corals and post my
results as far as my success goes.

Keep reading and take it slow.
Vicki


I started out wanting a smaller tank, trying to learn a bit as I go, but
have since had a friend give me a 29g tank, and am debating setting it
up after I read a bit more... I still may do a 10g nano like I
intened....
In my readings, I've seen many smaller tanks, and some huge tanks... and
one
thing occured to me... tank depth...
Is a shallower tank, less needy of strong light? I've seen a 20g long,
that seemed to do better with 65w, than a 55g did with 275w, and
wondered how is this possible??? Not to get into to many details, I
wondered if it was because of the depth of the 55g, rather than the
size, or the stock, or even the method of setup...
Any thoughts on this?

[RedForeman ©®]

This being my first SW adventure, AND, I'm dealing with a smaller scope than
most reefers, I'm starting out with a 29g that will be a 'beginner' tank...
The dimensions are 30"L x 20"H x 15"D

Plan:

Filtration
Seaclone Skimmer 100
2 powerheads
Live Rock and Live Sand

Heating
150W submersible heater

Lighting
I have on 1x55wPCF fixture, debating whether to use NO T8s or PCF only
and how many watts???

Livestock
Percula Clowns
Lunar Wrasse
Square back? - not sure, still researching
Bi-color Angel? - not sure, still researching
Picasso Trigger or Niger Trigger?
Scooter Blenny or similar

Corals (anticipated)
Anemone - Bubble Tip
Leather Coral - not sure, still researching
Feather Duster - not sure, still researching
Colt Corals - not sure, still researching
Mushrooms - not sure, still researching

I see that I could simplify things, by just starting out FO, or more with
FOWLR, but corals just seem so pleasant, and vibrant, and I would like to
start out rather simple, but not lock myself down to any one thing, and
regret it in the end....

I know this may all seem jumbled, but I threw out everything that was in my
head, on my papers in hopes that you may help me cross some things off, or
add some others...




"Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
> Basically, it is all about intensity.
>
> The deeper the tank, the further the light must travel to reach those
particular
> pieces of livestock. Sanjay Yoshi did some very interesting research on
> lighting at Macna XIV that I really learned a lot from. Of course, that
was 13
> months ago, and I can't remember every detail, but I'm going to buy the
DVD set
> from that event and will rewatch it to refresh those memories.
>
> Red, tell me the dimensions of your tank and what types of corals you plan
to
> keep.
>
> Marc
>
>
> "RedForeman ©®" wrote:
>
> > "Matthew Comstock" > wrote in message
> > > > Depth is an issue when planning your lighting. The amount of light
that
> > the
> > > > water filters out as the depth increases is something like the
square of
> > the
> > > > distance...something like that, I can't remember the actual formula
> > right
> > > > now.
> > > Actually the square inverse law has nothing to do with water filtering
> > > light out. since light is expanding in all directions from a point
> > > source, the intensity drops off as the square of the distance. (just
> > > geometry)
> >
> > uh... ok....
> >
> > > Since the water is not 100% clear, you will actually lose a bit more
> > > light than that, but the reflector behind the bulb will add some to
the
> > > initial intensity. The inverse square of the distance from the source
is
> > > just a decent estimate of the light intensity at a given point.
> >
> > uh.... huh? jk...
> >
> > I know deeper req's more light, or more 'intense' light... looking for
a
> > happy medium... a long tank is too shallow for me, and a 29g may be just
> > right for my use...
> >
> > I've seen 2x65w PCs, and coralife bulbs being used... and the $ isn't
too
> > terribly bad....
>
> --
> Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
>
>

[Marc Levenson]

Since I have a 29g as well, I'll just say that 3x55w has done very well for my
reef. You could even squeeze in 4x55w (hellolights.com sells a retro kit like
that).

I'd skip the SeaClone and get a Remora, if I were you.

Many Triggers are not reef safe, and will eat the corals you want to keep, as
well as some fish they can fit into their mouths (even if it is in pieces!).

The Lunar Wrasse can/will grow up to 8" long, so it is too big a fish for a 29g.

Marc


"RedForeman ©®" wrote:

> This being my first SW adventure, AND, I'm dealing with a smaller scope than
> most reefers, I'm starting out with a 29g that will be a 'beginner' tank...
> The dimensions are 30"L x 20"H x 15"D
>
> Plan:
>
> Filtration
> Seaclone Skimmer 100
> 2 powerheads
> Live Rock and Live Sand
>
> Heating
> 150W submersible heater
>
> Lighting
> I have on 1x55wPCF fixture, debating whether to use NO T8s or PCF only
> and how many watts???
>
> Livestock
> Percula Clowns
> Lunar Wrasse
> Square back? - not sure, still researching
> Bi-color Angel? - not sure, still researching
> Picasso Trigger or Niger Trigger?
> Scooter Blenny or similar
>
> Corals (anticipated)
> Anemone - Bubble Tip
> Leather Coral - not sure, still researching
> Feather Duster - not sure, still researching
> Colt Corals - not sure, still researching
> Mushrooms - not sure, still researching
>
> I see that I could simplify things, by just starting out FO, or more with
> FOWLR, but corals just seem so pleasant, and vibrant, and I would like to
> start out rather simple, but not lock myself down to any one thing, and
> regret it in the end....
>
> I know this may all seem jumbled, but I threw out everything that was in my
> head, on my papers in hopes that you may help me cross some things off, or
> add some others...
>
> "Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
> > Basically, it is all about intensity.
> >
> > The deeper the tank, the further the light must travel to reach those
> particular
> > pieces of livestock. Sanjay Yoshi did some very interesting research on
> > lighting at Macna XIV that I really learned a lot from. Of course, that
> was 13
> > months ago, and I can't remember every detail, but I'm going to buy the
> DVD set
> > from that event and will rewatch it to refresh those memories.
> >
> > Red, tell me the dimensions of your tank and what types of corals you plan
> to
> > keep.
> >
> > Marc
> >
> >
> > "RedForeman ©®" wrote:
> >
> > > "Matthew Comstock" > wrote in message
> > > > > Depth is an issue when planning your lighting. The amount of light
> that
> > > the
> > > > > water filters out as the depth increases is something like the
> square of
> > > the
> > > > > distance...something like that, I can't remember the actual formula
> > > right
> > > > > now.
> > > > Actually the square inverse law has nothing to do with water filtering
> > > > light out. since light is expanding in all directions from a point
> > > > source, the intensity drops off as the square of the distance. (just
> > > > geometry)
> > >
> > > uh... ok....
> > >
> > > > Since the water is not 100% clear, you will actually lose a bit more
> > > > light than that, but the reflector behind the bulb will add some to
> the
> > > > initial intensity. The inverse square of the distance from the source
> is
> > > > just a decent estimate of the light intensity at a given point.
> > >
> > > uh.... huh? jk...
> > >
> > > I know deeper req's more light, or more 'intense' light... looking for
> a
> > > happy medium... a long tank is too shallow for me, and a 29g may be just
> > > right for my use...
> > >
> > > I've seen 2x65w PCs, and coralife bulbs being used... and the $ isn't
> too
> > > terribly bad....
> >
> > --
> > Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> > Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> > Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
> >
> >

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[RedForeman ©®]

hee hee... in my 10g, heavy planted, and my 'other'29g, is a moderately
planted, press. CO2, 55wPCF Guppy farm.... it's got all the gupbabies...

Slow and steady...

words to live by....

BTW, I'm learning my patience with plants, as to slowly acclimate myself to
SW....


"~Vicki ~" > wrote in message
...
> I can't remember if you keep live plants in your FW tank, but the same
> principles do apply. Marc can tell you that the WPG principles do not
> count but intensity does. I have been using the same thinking with my
> heavily planted tank with wonderful results. I do not keep corals yet
> but find that they run on the same lines as low/moderate/high lighting
> as do plants in the FW aquaria. So do a little home work first before
> buying anything.
>
> Try your hand at basic fish keeping in the (FO or FOWLR) 29g first and
> when you can keep it happy and healthy for a few months then try the 10g
> nano. I have a 10g with a little crushed coral, a few blue leg hermits,
> three damsels, and a corner filter which has been running almost three
> months and never has had a drop of algae in it. I do change 3g of water
> a week and test it, but other than that nothing besides feeding the fish
> once a day. After Christmas I will start to add soft corals and post my
> results as far as my success goes.
>
> Keep reading and take it slow.
> Vicki
>
>
> I started out wanting a smaller tank, trying to learn a bit as I go, but
> have since had a friend give me a 29g tank, and am debating setting it
> up after I read a bit more... I still may do a 10g nano like I
> intened....
> In my readings, I've seen many smaller tanks, and some huge tanks... and
> one
> thing occured to me... tank depth...
> Is a shallower tank, less needy of strong light? I've seen a 20g long,
> that seemed to do better with 65w, than a 55g did with 275w, and
> wondered how is this possible??? Not to get into to many details, I
> wondered if it was because of the depth of the 55g, rather than the
> size, or the stock, or even the method of setup...
> Any thoughts on this?
>

[RedForeman ©®]

Ok, scratch the triggers.. and the seaclone... Looking at the Remora, I can
get one for $95, is that good?

"Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
...
> Since I have a 29g as well, I'll just say that 3x55w has done very well
for my
> reef. You could even squeeze in 4x55w (hellolights.com sells a retro kit
like
> that).
>
> I'd skip the SeaClone and get a Remora, if I were you.
>
> Many Triggers are not reef safe, and will eat the corals you want to keep,
as
> well as some fish they can fit into their mouths (even if it is in
pieces!).
>
> The Lunar Wrasse can/will grow up to 8" long, so it is too big a fish for
a 29g.
>
> Marc
>
>
> "RedForeman ©®" wrote:
>
> > This being my first SW adventure, AND, I'm dealing with a smaller scope
than
> > most reefers, I'm starting out with a 29g that will be a 'beginner'
tank...
> > The dimensions are 30"L x 20"H x 15"D
> >
> > Plan:
> >
> > Filtration
> > Seaclone Skimmer 100
> > 2 powerheads
> > Live Rock and Live Sand
> >
> > Heating
> > 150W submersible heater
> >
> > Lighting
> > I have on 1x55wPCF fixture, debating whether to use NO T8s or PCF only
> > and how many watts???
> >
> > Livestock
> > Percula Clowns
> > Lunar Wrasse
> > Square back? - not sure, still researching
> > Bi-color Angel? - not sure, still researching
> > Picasso Trigger or Niger Trigger?
> > Scooter Blenny or similar
> >
> > Corals (anticipated)
> > Anemone - Bubble Tip
> > Leather Coral - not sure, still researching
> > Feather Duster - not sure, still researching
> > Colt Corals - not sure, still researching
> > Mushrooms - not sure, still researching
> >
> > I see that I could simplify things, by just starting out FO, or more
with
> > FOWLR, but corals just seem so pleasant, and vibrant, and I would like
to
> > start out rather simple, but not lock myself down to any one thing, and
> > regret it in the end....
> >
> > I know this may all seem jumbled, but I threw out everything that was in
my
> > head, on my papers in hopes that you may help me cross some things off,
or
> > add some others...
> >
> > "Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
> > > Basically, it is all about intensity.
> > >
> > > The deeper the tank, the further the light must travel to reach those
> > particular
> > > pieces of livestock. Sanjay Yoshi did some very interesting research
on
> > > lighting at Macna XIV that I really learned a lot from. Of course,
that
> > was 13
> > > months ago, and I can't remember every detail, but I'm going to buy
the
> > DVD set
> > > from that event and will rewatch it to refresh those memories.
> > >
> > > Red, tell me the dimensions of your tank and what types of corals you
plan
> > to
> > > keep.
> > >
> > > Marc
> > >
> > >
> > > "RedForeman ©®" wrote:
> > >
> > > > "Matthew Comstock" > wrote in message
> > > > > > Depth is an issue when planning your lighting. The amount of
light
> > that
> > > > the
> > > > > > water filters out as the depth increases is something like the
> > square of
> > > > the
> > > > > > distance...something like that, I can't remember the actual
formula
> > > > right
> > > > > > now.
> > > > > Actually the square inverse law has nothing to do with water
filtering
> > > > > light out. since light is expanding in all directions from a point
> > > > > source, the intensity drops off as the square of the distance.
(just
> > > > > geometry)
> > > >
> > > > uh... ok....
> > > >
> > > > > Since the water is not 100% clear, you will actually lose a bit
more
> > > > > light than that, but the reflector behind the bulb will add some
to
> > the
> > > > > initial intensity. The inverse square of the distance from the
source
> > is
> > > > > just a decent estimate of the light intensity at a given point.
> > > >
> > > > uh.... huh? jk...
> > > >
> > > > I know deeper req's more light, or more 'intense' light... looking
for
> > a
> > > > happy medium... a long tank is too shallow for me, and a 29g may be
just
> > > > right for my use...
> > > >
> > > > I've seen 2x65w PCs, and coralife bulbs being used... and the $
isn't
> > too
> > > > terribly bad....
> > >
> > > --
> > > Personal Page:
http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> > > Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> > > Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
> > >
> > >
>
> --
> Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
>
>

[RedForeman ©®]

What if... I start out real slow, go with a 10g FO tank? Get my bearings,
learn as I read and go with that for awhile??? I can always add LR and LS
right?

What sand would work, any white sand?

"Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
...
> Since I have a 29g as well, I'll just say that 3x55w has done very well
for my
> reef. You could even squeeze in 4x55w (hellolights.com sells a retro kit
like
> that).
>
> I'd skip the SeaClone and get a Remora, if I were you.
>
> Many Triggers are not reef safe, and will eat the corals you want to keep,
as
> well as some fish they can fit into their mouths (even if it is in
pieces!).
>
> The Lunar Wrasse can/will grow up to 8" long, so it is too big a fish for
a 29g.
>
> Marc
>
>
> "RedForeman ©®" wrote:
>
> > This being my first SW adventure, AND, I'm dealing with a smaller scope
than
> > most reefers, I'm starting out with a 29g that will be a 'beginner'
tank...
> > The dimensions are 30"L x 20"H x 15"D
> >
> > Plan:
> >
> > Filtration
> > Seaclone Skimmer 100
> > 2 powerheads
> > Live Rock and Live Sand
> >
> > Heating
> > 150W submersible heater
> >
> > Lighting
> > I have on 1x55wPCF fixture, debating whether to use NO T8s or PCF only
> > and how many watts???
> >
> > Livestock
> > Percula Clowns
> > Lunar Wrasse
> > Square back? - not sure, still researching
> > Bi-color Angel? - not sure, still researching
> > Picasso Trigger or Niger Trigger?
> > Scooter Blenny or similar
> >
> > Corals (anticipated)
> > Anemone - Bubble Tip
> > Leather Coral - not sure, still researching
> > Feather Duster - not sure, still researching
> > Colt Corals - not sure, still researching
> > Mushrooms - not sure, still researching
> >
> > I see that I could simplify things, by just starting out FO, or more
with
> > FOWLR, but corals just seem so pleasant, and vibrant, and I would like
to
> > start out rather simple, but not lock myself down to any one thing, and
> > regret it in the end....
> >
> > I know this may all seem jumbled, but I threw out everything that was in
my
> > head, on my papers in hopes that you may help me cross some things off,
or
> > add some others...
> >
> > "Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
> > > Basically, it is all about intensity.
> > >
> > > The deeper the tank, the further the light must travel to reach those
> > particular
> > > pieces of livestock. Sanjay Yoshi did some very interesting research
on
> > > lighting at Macna XIV that I really learned a lot from. Of course,
that
> > was 13
> > > months ago, and I can't remember every detail, but I'm going to buy
the
> > DVD set
> > > from that event and will rewatch it to refresh those memories.
> > >
> > > Red, tell me the dimensions of your tank and what types of corals you
plan
> > to
> > > keep.
> > >
> > > Marc
> > >
> > >
> > > "RedForeman ©®" wrote:
> > >
> > > > "Matthew Comstock" > wrote in message
> > > > > > Depth is an issue when planning your lighting. The amount of
light
> > that
> > > > the
> > > > > > water filters out as the depth increases is something like the
> > square of
> > > > the
> > > > > > distance...something like that, I can't remember the actual
formula
> > > > right
> > > > > > now.
> > > > > Actually the square inverse law has nothing to do with water
filtering
> > > > > light out. since light is expanding in all directions from a point
> > > > > source, the intensity drops off as the square of the distance.
(just
> > > > > geometry)
> > > >
> > > > uh... ok....
> > > >
> > > > > Since the water is not 100% clear, you will actually lose a bit
more
> > > > > light than that, but the reflector behind the bulb will add some
to
> > the
> > > > > initial intensity. The inverse square of the distance from the
source
> > is
> > > > > just a decent estimate of the light intensity at a given point.
> > > >
> > > > uh.... huh? jk...
> > > >
> > > > I know deeper req's more light, or more 'intense' light... looking
for
> > a
> > > > happy medium... a long tank is too shallow for me, and a 29g may be
just
> > > > right for my use...
> > > >
> > > > I've seen 2x65w PCs, and coralife bulbs being used... and the $
isn't
> > too
> > > > terribly bad....
> > >
> > > --
> > > Personal Page:
http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> > > Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> > > Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
> > >
> > >
>
> --
> Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
>
>

[~Vicki ~]

LOL......see you already know a bit about lighting then.

Vicki

hee hee... in my 10g, heavy planted, and my 'other'29g, is a moderately
planted, press. CO2, 55wPCF Guppy farm.... it's got all the gupbabies...
Slow and steady...
words to live by....
BTW, I'm learning my patience with plants, as to slowly acclimate myself
to SW....

[Marc Levenson]

Sure is.

Marc :)

"RedForeman ©®" wrote:

> Ok, scratch the triggers.. and the seaclone... Looking at the Remora, I can
> get one for $95, is that good?
>

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Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[Marc Levenson]

A 10g is much harder to care for, because there is so little fluid in the
tank.... it will pollute faster, and parameters will swing quickly.

By not topping off my son's 10g for 5 days, the salinity was 1.030 sg, but
adding about a gallon of water brought it back down to 1.025 way too quickly.

Just set up the 29g and have a nice time. I set up my 29g over 5 years ago, and
never regretted that decision. You won't spend a fortune on a small setup
compared to larger tanks.

You can buy Aragonite-based sand at the LFS for less than $30 and be just fine.
Or used CC if you don't mind vacuuming it.

Marc


"RedForeman ©®" wrote:

> What if... I start out real slow, go with a 10g FO tank? Get my bearings,
> learn as I read and go with that for awhile??? I can always add LR and LS
> right?
>
> What sand would work, any white sand?
>

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Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[RedForeman ©®]

ok, good enough... I'll have plenty more later...

thanks Marc...

"Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
...
> A 10g is much harder to care for, because there is so little fluid in the
> tank.... it will pollute faster, and parameters will swing quickly.
>
> By not topping off my son's 10g for 5 days, the salinity was 1.030 sg, but
> adding about a gallon of water brought it back down to 1.025 way too
quickly.
>
> Just set up the 29g and have a nice time. I set up my 29g over 5 years
ago, and
> never regretted that decision. You won't spend a fortune on a small setup
> compared to larger tanks.
>
> You can buy Aragonite-based sand at the LFS for less than $30 and be just
fine.
> Or used CC if you don't mind vacuuming it.
>
> Marc
>
>
> "RedForeman ©®" wrote:
>
> > What if... I start out real slow, go with a 10g FO tank? Get my
bearings,
> > learn as I read and go with that for awhile??? I can always add LR and
LS
> > right?
> >
> > What sand would work, any white sand?
> >
>
> --
> Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
>
>