what to do with overflow?

[TekCat]

I have a Quietflow 600 hang on overflow box... supposedly it should take
care of 600GPh. Also I have pump that is pumping from sump to the tank, it
is Dolphin DP 560. With 2' head loss the chart says it would output 460GPH.
So far so good, but the overflow doesn't seem to take 460gph quite well, I
get my sump's return area empty very quickly, this means one thing that the
pump pumps faster than overflow can handle. Any thoughts on how to solve
this?

[Charles Spitzer]

"TekCat" > wrote in message
...
>I have a Quietflow 600 hang on overflow box... supposedly it should take
> care of 600GPh. Also I have pump that is pumping from sump to the tank,
> it
> is Dolphin DP 560. With 2' head loss the chart says it would output
> 460GPH.
> So far so good, but the overflow doesn't seem to take 460gph quite well, I
> get my sump's return area empty very quickly, this means one thing that
> the
> pump pumps faster than overflow can handle. Any thoughts on how to solve
> this?

throttle the output side of the pump, or get another/bigger overflow.

[harmanrk]

#ed_op#DIV#ed_cl#Place a Tee on the return line, and run a line back
to the sump, place a ball valve on this deversion line, and open it
slightly to devert some of the return ware back to the
sump. It should be possible to find apoint where the pump
and the overflow match
up.#ed_op#/DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#DIV#ed_cl# #ed_op#/DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#DIV#ed_cl#Robert#ed_op#/DIV#ed_cl#
----------------------------------------
Usenet Gateway provided by http://www.CaptiveReefing.com

[Wayne Sallee]

Get a biger sump, and/or improve your overflow.

Your water level in the sump will drop when the pump is
running, and go back up when the pump is not. Does the
tank come close to overflowing, or does the tank water
level run at a normal level?

Wayne Sallee


Charles Spitzer wrote:
> "TekCat" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>I have a Quietflow 600 hang on overflow box... supposedly it should take
>>care of 600GPh. Also I have pump that is pumping from sump to the tank,
>>it
>>is Dolphin DP 560. With 2' head loss the chart says it would output
>>460GPH.
>>So far so good, but the overflow doesn't seem to take 460gph quite well, I
>>get my sump's return area empty very quickly, this means one thing that
>>the
>>pump pumps faster than overflow can handle. Any thoughts on how to solve
>>this?
>
>
> throttle the output side of the pump, or get another/bigger overflow.
>
>

[TekCat]

the return area of the sump is only 3 gallons, so it gets "dry" fast. I
could try to make bigger sump, or ... maybe making new teeth in overflow
skimming box could do the trick?



"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
link.net...
> Get a biger sump, and/or improve your overflow.
>
> Your water level in the sump will drop when the pump is running, and go
> back up when the pump is not. Does the tank come close to overflowing, or
> does the tank water level run at a normal level?
>
> Wayne Sallee
>
>
> Charles Spitzer wrote:
>> "TekCat" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>
>>>I have a Quietflow 600 hang on overflow box... supposedly it should take
>>>care of 600GPh. Also I have pump that is pumping from sump to the tank,
>>>it
>>>is Dolphin DP 560. With 2' head loss the chart says it would output
>>>460GPH.
>>>So far so good, but the overflow doesn't seem to take 460gph quite well,
>>>I
>>>get my sump's return area empty very quickly, this means one thing that
>>>the
>>>pump pumps faster than overflow can handle. Any thoughts on how to solve
>>>this?
>>
>>
>> throttle the output side of the pump, or get another/bigger overflow.

[Wayne Sallee]

How many gallons of fluctuation are you getting between
pump on, and pump off?
What's the size of your tank?

Wayne Sallee


TekCat wrote:
> the return area of the sump is only 3 gallons, so it gets "dry" fast. I
> could try to make bigger sump, or ... maybe making new teeth in overflow
> skimming box could do the trick?
>
>
>
> "Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
> link.net...
>
>>Get a biger sump, and/or improve your overflow.
>>
>>Your water level in the sump will drop when the pump is running, and go
>>back up when the pump is not. Does the tank come close to overflowing, or
>>does the tank water level run at a normal level?
>>
>>Wayne Sallee

>>
>>Charles Spitzer wrote:
>>
>>>"TekCat" > wrote in message
...
>>>
>>>
>>>>I have a Quietflow 600 hang on overflow box... supposedly it should take
>>>>care of 600GPh. Also I have pump that is pumping from sump to the tank,
>>>>it
>>>>is Dolphin DP 560. With 2' head loss the chart says it would output
>>>>460GPH.
>>>>So far so good, but the overflow doesn't seem to take 460gph quite well,
>>>>I
>>>>get my sump's return area empty very quickly, this means one thing that
>>>>the
>>>>pump pumps faster than overflow can handle. Any thoughts on how to solve
>>>>this?
>>>
>>>
>>>throttle the output side of the pump, or get another/bigger overflow.
>
>
>

[Charles Spitzer]

i'm curious, why would increasing the size of the sump work? i would think
that since the pump is emptying it, eventually either the pump will empty
the sump and run dry, or the tank will overflow because not enough water is
coming out of it.

"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
link.net...
> How many gallons of fluctuation are you getting between pump on, and pump
> off?
> What's the size of your tank?
>
> Wayne Sallee
>
>
> TekCat wrote:
>> the return area of the sump is only 3 gallons, so it gets "dry" fast. I
>> could try to make bigger sump, or ... maybe making new teeth in overflow
>> skimming box could do the trick?
>>
>>
>>
>> "Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
>> link.net...
>>
>>>Get a biger sump, and/or improve your overflow.
>>>
>>>Your water level in the sump will drop when the pump is running, and go
>>>back up when the pump is not. Does the tank come close to overflowing, or
>>>does the tank water level run at a normal level?
>>>
>>>Wayne Sallee

>>>
>>>Charles Spitzer wrote:
>>>
>>>>"TekCat" > wrote in message
...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I have a Quietflow 600 hang on overflow box... supposedly it should
>>>>>take
>>>>>care of 600GPh. Also I have pump that is pumping from sump to the
>>>>>tank, it
>>>>>is Dolphin DP 560. With 2' head loss the chart says it would output
>>>>>460GPH.
>>>>>So far so good, but the overflow doesn't seem to take 460gph quite
>>>>>well, I
>>>>>get my sump's return area empty very quickly, this means one thing that
>>>>>the
>>>>>pump pumps faster than overflow can handle. Any thoughts on how to
>>>>>solve
>>>>>this?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>throttle the output side of the pump, or get another/bigger overflow.
>>
>>

[Wayne Sallee]

Because I don't think that is the true problem. Maybe the
overflow lets the water fluctuate more than he wants, but
I think that the bigest problem that he is having, is that
the water volume in the sump is so small that it does not
give him adiquate room for that fluctuation.

Wayne Sallee


Charles Spitzer wrote:
> i'm curious, why would increasing the size of the sump work? i would think
> that since the pump is emptying it, eventually either the pump will empty
> the sump and run dry, or the tank will overflow because not enough water is
> coming out of it.
>
> "Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
> link.net...
>
>>How many gallons of fluctuation are you getting between pump on, and pump
>>off?
>>What's the size of your tank?
>>
>>Wayne Sallee

>>
>>TekCat wrote:
>>
>>>the return area of the sump is only 3 gallons, so it gets "dry" fast. I
>>>could try to make bigger sump, or ... maybe making new teeth in overflow
>>>skimming box could do the trick?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
link.net...
>>>
>>>
>>>>Get a biger sump, and/or improve your overflow.
>>>>
>>>>Your water level in the sump will drop when the pump is running, and go
>>>>back up when the pump is not. Does the tank come close to overflowing, or
>>>>does the tank water level run at a normal level?
>>>>
>>>>Wayne Sallee

>>>>
>>>>Charles Spitzer wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>"TekCat" > wrote in message
...
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>I have a Quietflow 600 hang on overflow box... supposedly it should
>>>>>>take
>>>>>>care of 600GPh. Also I have pump that is pumping from sump to the
>>>>>>tank, it
>>>>>>is Dolphin DP 560. With 2' head loss the chart says it would output
>>>>>>460GPH.
>>>>>>So far so good, but the overflow doesn't seem to take 460gph quite
>>>>>>well, I
>>>>>>get my sump's return area empty very quickly, this means one thing that
>>>>>>the
>>>>>>pump pumps faster than overflow can handle. Any thoughts on how to
>>>>>>solve
>>>>>>this?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>throttle the output side of the pump, or get another/bigger overflow.
>>>
>>>
>

[kim gross]

Wayne Sallee wrote:
> Because I don't think that is the true problem. Maybe the overflow lets
> the water fluctuate more than he wants, but I think that the bigest
> problem that he is having, is that the water volume in the sump is so
> small that it does not give him adiquate room for that fluctuation.
>
> Wayne Sallee
>
>
> Charles Spitzer wrote:
>


Correct.

Depending on the size of the tank, if the water level raises 1/4 of an
inch it could be more than 1.5 gallons of water alone, let alone the
water in the pipes. 3 gallons is not much water, and most overflows
depending on the tooth arrangement can use up to 1/2 or even 3/4 of on
inch of water to build up before they are close to max flow, and if the
overflow needs 3/4 of on inch of water in a 72x18 tank, that would be
around 4 gallons of water, so the sump would run dry before the overflow
got to max flow rate..... An of course if he has a long pipe run with
large pipe there could be a gallon of water in the return pipe also.


Kim

[Marc Levenson]

The return section of your sump is too small. You'll need to keep
adding water just to keep up with what it sucks up, just until things
even out. Add too much water, and when the return pump is off, the sump
may overflow from that additional water volume.

Marc


TekCat wrote:
> I have a Quietflow 600 hang on overflow box... supposedly it should take
> care of 600GPh. Also I have pump that is pumping from sump to the tank, it
> is Dolphin DP 560. With 2' head loss the chart says it would output 460GPH.
> So far so good, but the overflow doesn't seem to take 460gph quite well, I
> get my sump's return area empty very quickly, this means one thing that the
> pump pumps faster than overflow can handle. Any thoughts on how to solve
> this?
>
>

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[TekCat]

Exactly, I toyed with lowering overflow skim box below the tank's water
line. This created a lot more flow to the sump, and return area didn't run
dry, however this is not acceptable arangement ( sump won't take THAT much
water if pump fails or power goes down).

So far I have two options. First, redesign return area to be as large as
possible. Second is to make more "teeth" in the overflow surface skimmer
box. (or widen them up)

I'd like to explore first option to the fullest extent before I start
grinding teeth in the overwflow box. :)


"kim gross" > wrote in message
...
> Wayne Sallee wrote:
>> Because I don't think that is the true problem. Maybe the overflow lets
>> the water fluctuate more than he wants, but I think that the bigest
>> problem that he is having, is that the water volume in the sump is so
>> small that it does not give him adiquate room for that fluctuation.
>>
>> Wayne Sallee
>>
>>
>> Charles Spitzer wrote:
>>
>
>
> Correct.
>
> Depending on the size of the tank, if the water level raises 1/4 of an
> inch it could be more than 1.5 gallons of water alone, let alone the water
> in the pipes. 3 gallons is not much water, and most overflows depending
> on the tooth arrangement can use up to 1/2 or even 3/4 of on inch of water
> to build up before they are close to max flow, and if the overflow needs
> 3/4 of on inch of water in a 72x18 tank, that would be around 4 gallons of
> water, so the sump would run dry before the overflow got to max flow
> rate..... An of course if he has a long pipe run with large pipe there
> could be a gallon of water in the return pipe also.
>
>
> Kim
>

[Wayne Sallee]

How high over the box does the water rise?

Wayne Sallee



TekCat wrote:
> Exactly, I toyed with lowering overflow skim box below the tank's water
> line. This created a lot more flow to the sump, and return area didn't run
> dry, however this is not acceptable arangement ( sump won't take THAT much
> water if pump fails or power goes down).
>
> So far I have two options. First, redesign return area to be as large as
> possible. Second is to make more "teeth" in the overflow surface skimmer
> box. (or widen them up)
>
> I'd like to explore first option to the fullest extent before I start
> grinding teeth in the overwflow box. :)
>
>
> "kim gross" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>Wayne Sallee wrote:
>>
>>>Because I don't think that is the true problem. Maybe the overflow lets
>>>the water fluctuate more than he wants, but I think that the bigest
>>>problem that he is having, is that the water volume in the sump is so
>>>small that it does not give him adiquate room for that fluctuation.
>>>
>>>Wayne Sallee

>>>
>>>Charles Spitzer wrote:
>>>
>>
>>
>>Correct.
>>
>>Depending on the size of the tank, if the water level raises 1/4 of an
>>inch it could be more than 1.5 gallons of water alone, let alone the water
>>in the pipes. 3 gallons is not much water, and most overflows depending
>>on the tooth arrangement can use up to 1/2 or even 3/4 of on inch of water
>>to build up before they are close to max flow, and if the overflow needs
>>3/4 of on inch of water in a 72x18 tank, that would be around 4 gallons of
>>water, so the sump would run dry before the overflow got to max flow
>>rate..... An of course if he has a long pipe run with large pipe there
>>could be a gallon of water in the return pipe also.
>>
>>
>>Kim
>>
>
>
>

[TekCat]

it rises about 1/4" ... it could go up an 1.5", but my sump gets dry very
quickly, so it never reaches 1.5" mark :(
I need to calculate how much water my sump needs to pump back to the tank to
achieve 1" or 1.5" water line increase, and still have some water to cover
up the pump.


"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
link.net...
> How high over the box does the water rise?
>
> Wayne Sallee
>
>
>
> TekCat wrote:
>> Exactly, I toyed with lowering overflow skim box below the tank's water
>> line. This created a lot more flow to the sump, and return area didn't
>> run dry, however this is not acceptable arangement ( sump won't take THAT
>> much water if pump fails or power goes down).
>>
>> So far I have two options. First, redesign return area to be as large as
>> possible. Second is to make more "teeth" in the overflow surface skimmer
>> box. (or widen them up)
>>
>> I'd like to explore first option to the fullest extent before I start
>> grinding teeth in the overwflow box. :)
>>
>>
>> "kim gross" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>
>>>Wayne Sallee wrote:
>>>
>>>>Because I don't think that is the true problem. Maybe the overflow lets
>>>>the water fluctuate more than he wants, but I think that the bigest
>>>>problem that he is having, is that the water volume in the sump is so
>>>>small that it does not give him adiquate room for that fluctuation.
>>>>
>>>>Wayne Sallee

>>>>
>>>>Charles Spitzer wrote:
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Correct.
>>>
>>>Depending on the size of the tank, if the water level raises 1/4 of an
>>>inch it could be more than 1.5 gallons of water alone, let alone the
>>>water in the pipes. 3 gallons is not much water, and most overflows
>>>depending on the tooth arrangement can use up to 1/2 or even 3/4 of on
>>>inch of water to build up before they are close to max flow, and if the
>>>overflow needs 3/4 of on inch of water in a 72x18 tank, that would be
>>>around 4 gallons of water, so the sump would run dry before the overflow
>>>got to max flow rate..... An of course if he has a long pipe run with
>>>large pipe there could be a gallon of water in the return pipe also.
>>>
>>>
>>>Kim
>>>
>>
>>

[Pszemol]

"Charles Spitzer" > wrote in message ...
> i'm curious, why would increasing the size of the sump work? i would think
> that since the pump is emptying it, eventually either the pump will empty
> the sump and run dry, or the tank will overflow because not enough water is
> coming out of it.

It is quite simple. The flow of water through the overflow
depends on the difference of water levels between the tank
and the overflow other side...
The bigger the difference the greater the flow.

At the begining, when you turn your pump on, the pump
pumps normaly fast but the overflow does not let the water
go fast enough... Over time, when the water in the tank
rises, the pressure build up on both sides of the overflow
syphon and the speed of water flowing through the overflow
increases until it will equalize with the pump output...

And now, if it takes more than 3 gallons to make up
the big enough water level difference on both sides
of the overflow then the sump will run dry before the
overflow will reach its maximum water output...

I would propose an experiment... :-)
Take a big bucket, like an empty Instant Ocean salt container.
Its volume is about 6 gallons. (the new style is smaller...)
Drop your submersible pump into the bucket, low on the
bottom and fill up the bucket with the salt mix (same
temperature, salnity to be mixed with your tank water).
Drop the hose from the overflow to the bucket as well...
Turn on the pump and see that your overflow is good enough :-)

All you need is a bigger sump. At least bigger pump
compartment. Your tank is simply too big for the sump
and the water in the tank does not rise fast enough
to fuel the overflow.

[carpenterwrasse]

I have 2 ball valves on my tank 1 for intake and 1 for return i tweek
each to satisfy the flucuation.
----------------------------------------
Usenet Gateway provided by http://www.CaptiveReefing.com

[TekCat]

Ok, I am building new sump! I have another 10G tank that would be
transformed into the sump.
Now, It is going to be two section sump: skimmer->return.

[Wayne Sallee]

I'm assuming you have a reef tank. Reef tanks don't need a
wet dry, so I'm assuming you don't have a wet dry, but a
sump. Since all you need is a sump, I would get a bigger
tank for a sump, rather than try to hook up a secnd 10
gallon tank.

Wayne Sallee


TekCat wrote:
> Ok, I am building new sump! I have another 10G tank that would be
> transformed into the sump.
> Now, It is going to be two section sump: skimmer->return.
>
>

[Pszemol]

"TekCat" > wrote in message ...
> Ok, I am building new sump! I have another 10G tank that
> would be transformed into the sump.
> Now, It is going to be two section sump: skimmer->return.

Use some experience people have building sumps before you...
If you put not enough baffles/bubble traps in the sump
the water falling down from the overflow will contain
enough air bubbles to get into the pump and create bubble
problem in your display tank.
I would recommend using as much space in your cabinet
for the sump as possible. You could have some sections
of your sump left empty for now and later convert them
into lighted refugium or algae filter etc...
Just browse internet for pages with sumps other people
build and collect ideas to make something usefull for you.

p.s.
I think I missed the end of the RO/DI filter story.
How did it end ? Do you have a working filter now ?
Are you satisfied with the seller support ? Would you
recommend this source of RO filter for other aquarists?

[Wayne Sallee]

I prefer to use live rock rubble to get rid of
microbubbles, instead of baffels. It's so much more
beneficial.

Wayne Sallee


Pszemol wrote:
> "TekCat" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>> Ok, I am building new sump! I have another 10G tank that
>> would be transformed into the sump.
>> Now, It is going to be two section sump: skimmer->return.
>
>
> Use some experience people have building sumps before you...
> If you put not enough baffles/bubble traps in the sump
> the water falling down from the overflow will contain
> enough air bubbles to get into the pump and create bubble
> problem in your display tank.
> I would recommend using as much space in your cabinet
> for the sump as possible. You could have some sections
> of your sump left empty for now and later convert them
> into lighted refugium or algae filter etc...
> Just browse internet for pages with sumps other people
> build and collect ideas to make something usefull for you.
>
> p.s.
> I think I missed the end of the RO/DI filter story.
> How did it end ? Do you have a working filter now ?
> Are you satisfied with the seller support ? Would you
> recommend this source of RO filter for other aquarists?

[TekCat]

I am looking at lots of sump designs,... unfortunately they are all too big
to fit it in my stand. I hate Wal-Mart :)))) the stand is from them... it
divided into 2 sections, they are completely separated from each other, and
there is only a 10G tank would make in the section. So, I am stuck there
with 10G sump. Or maybe two tanks with some creative plumbing going around
the stand's poor design. One tank would have skimmer and return sections,
and another would be a fuge. I since the skimmer (AquaC Remora) is a hang
on, I'd estimate my skimmer section (with intake would) take 3 gallons, and
use remaining 7 for the return section.

Since it is the way I am most likely going to go (glass tank), my first
choice is acrylic for baffles, compartments, etc... What type of glue I need
to use to glue acrylic to glass?


P.S. Pszemol, The RO/DI saga came to the happy end. My membrane was the
problem, recently I got replacement. It works like a charm. I am very
happy though :)) I estimated that with booster pump running I am getting
approximately 110GPD. AWESOME!!!! :))) Thanks for your help.



"Pszemol" > wrote in message
...
> "TekCat" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Ok, I am building new sump! I have another 10G tank that
>> would be transformed into the sump.
>> Now, It is going to be two section sump: skimmer->return.
>
> Use some experience people have building sumps before you...
> If you put not enough baffles/bubble traps in the sump
> the water falling down from the overflow will contain
> enough air bubbles to get into the pump and create bubble
> problem in your display tank.
> I would recommend using as much space in your cabinet
> for the sump as possible. You could have some sections
> of your sump left empty for now and later convert them
> into lighted refugium or algae filter etc...
> Just browse internet for pages with sumps other people
> build and collect ideas to make something usefull for you.
>
> p.s.
> I think I missed the end of the RO/DI filter story.
> How did it end ? Do you have a working filter now ?
> Are you satisfied with the seller support ? Would you
> recommend this source of RO filter for other aquarists?

[Charles Spitzer]

look in the rubbermaid tub section. my sump is a 30 gal tub. easy to drill
and add bulkheads. has a lid. sturdy. cheap.

"TekCat" > wrote in message
...
>I am looking at lots of sump designs,... unfortunately they are all too big
> to fit it in my stand. I hate Wal-Mart :)))) the stand is from them... it
> divided into 2 sections, they are completely separated from each other,
> and
> there is only a 10G tank would make in the section. So, I am stuck there
> with 10G sump. Or maybe two tanks with some creative plumbing going
> around
> the stand's poor design. One tank would have skimmer and return
> sections,
> and another would be a fuge. I since the skimmer (AquaC Remora) is a hang
> on, I'd estimate my skimmer section (with intake would) take 3 gallons,
> and
> use remaining 7 for the return section.
>
> Since it is the way I am most likely going to go (glass tank), my first
> choice is acrylic for baffles, compartments, etc... What type of glue I
> need
> to use to glue acrylic to glass?
>
>
> P.S. Pszemol, The RO/DI saga came to the happy end. My membrane was the
> problem, recently I got replacement. It works like a charm. I am very
> happy though :)) I estimated that with booster pump running I am getting
> approximately 110GPD. AWESOME!!!! :))) Thanks for your help.
>
>
>
> "Pszemol" > wrote in message
> ...
>> "TekCat" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> Ok, I am building new sump! I have another 10G tank that
>>> would be transformed into the sump.
>>> Now, It is going to be two section sump: skimmer->return.
>>
>> Use some experience people have building sumps before you...
>> If you put not enough baffles/bubble traps in the sump
>> the water falling down from the overflow will contain
>> enough air bubbles to get into the pump and create bubble
>> problem in your display tank.
>> I would recommend using as much space in your cabinet
>> for the sump as possible. You could have some sections
>> of your sump left empty for now and later convert them
>> into lighted refugium or algae filter etc...
>> Just browse internet for pages with sumps other people
>> build and collect ideas to make something usefull for you.
>>
>> p.s.
>> I think I missed the end of the RO/DI filter story.
>> How did it end ? Do you have a working filter now ?
>> Are you satisfied with the seller support ? Would you
>> recommend this source of RO filter for other aquarists?
>
>

[Pszemol]

"TekCat" > wrote in message ...
> I am looking at lots of sump designs,... unfortunately they are all too big
> to fit it in my stand. I hate Wal-Mart :)))) the stand is from them... it
> divided into 2 sections, they are completely separated from each other, and
> there is only a 10G tank would make in the section. So, I am stuck there
> with 10G sump. Or maybe two tanks with some creative plumbing going around
> the stand's poor design. One tank would have skimmer and return sections,
> and another would be a fuge. I since the skimmer (AquaC Remora) is a hang
> on, I'd estimate my skimmer section (with intake would) take 3 gallons, and
> use remaining 7 for the return section.

You know, the buty part about Walmart is that if you are not happy about the
product you buy you can pack it and carry back to the store for a refund ;-)

> Since it is the way I am most likely going to go (glass tank), my first
> choice is acrylic for baffles, compartments, etc... What type of glue
> I need to use to glue acrylic to glass?

Bad idea. Cut the glass and glue it with silicone.

> P.S. Pszemol, The RO/DI saga came to the happy end. My membrane was the
> problem, recently I got replacement. It works like a charm. I am very
> happy though :)) I estimated that with booster pump running I am getting
> approximately 110GPD. AWESOME!!!! :))) Thanks for your help.

Glad to hear this.

[Wayne Sallee]

Yea don't buy aquarium stuff from Wal-Mart. Find a good LFS.

If it were me I would buy or build a new stand, and do it
right. Also on the All-Glass Brand Stands, the front
middle support can be nocked out, and then attached back
with screws. The middle support is not needed to hold up
the aquarium. It just gives additional stability. I asked
All-Glass, and they gave me that info. By doing this you
can fit a large sump under the stand, and easily remove
and put back in the center support.

Silicone is the best for gluing glass. It sticks to
acrylic so-so. Silicone II will stick to acrylic better,
But for glass to glass I prefer regular silicone over
Sillicone II. I'm not a big fan of Sillicone II.

Wayne Sallee
Wayne's Pets



TekCat wrote:
> I am looking at lots of sump designs,... unfortunately they are all too big
> to fit it in my stand. I hate Wal-Mart :)))) the stand is from them... it
> divided into 2 sections, they are completely separated from each other, and
> there is only a 10G tank would make in the section. So, I am stuck there
> with 10G sump. Or maybe two tanks with some creative plumbing going around
> the stand's poor design. One tank would have skimmer and return sections,
> and another would be a fuge. I since the skimmer (AquaC Remora) is a hang
> on, I'd estimate my skimmer section (with intake would) take 3 gallons, and
> use remaining 7 for the return section.
>
> Since it is the way I am most likely going to go (glass tank), my first
> choice is acrylic for baffles, compartments, etc... What type of glue I need
> to use to glue acrylic to glass?
>
>
> P.S. Pszemol, The RO/DI saga came to the happy end. My membrane was the
> problem, recently I got replacement. It works like a charm. I am very
> happy though :)) I estimated that with booster pump running I am getting
> approximately 110GPD. AWESOME!!!! :))) Thanks for your help.
>
>
>
> "Pszemol" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>"TekCat" > wrote in message
...
>>
>>>Ok, I am building new sump! I have another 10G tank that
>>>would be transformed into the sump.
>>>Now, It is going to be two section sump: skimmer->return.
>>
>>Use some experience people have building sumps before you...
>>If you put not enough baffles/bubble traps in the sump
>>the water falling down from the overflow will contain
>>enough air bubbles to get into the pump and create bubble
>>problem in your display tank.
>>I would recommend using as much space in your cabinet
>>for the sump as possible. You could have some sections
>>of your sump left empty for now and later convert them
>>into lighted refugium or algae filter etc...
>>Just browse internet for pages with sumps other people
>>build and collect ideas to make something usefull for you.
>>
>>p.s.
>>I think I missed the end of the RO/DI filter story.
>>How did it end ? Do you have a working filter now ?
>>Are you satisfied with the seller support ? Would you
>>recommend this source of RO filter for other aquarists?
>
>
>

[TekCat]

Will the epoxy glue work? Or this is overkill?


> Silicone is the best for gluing glass. It sticks to acrylic so-so.
> Silicone II will stick to acrylic better, But for glass to glass I prefer
> regular silicone over Sillicone II. I'm not a big fan of Sillicone II.
>

[Wayne Sallee]

Epoxy might be hard to remove later if you decide to
change it.

I would use a glass pannel and use silicone. Keep in mind
though that later if you decide to take it out it will
take a lot of going overs with a razor blade to get the
last bit of silicone off. The front glass would be the
only place that you would be trying to get every last bit
of silicone off for good viewing.

Wayne Sallee
Wayne's Pets



TekCat wrote:
> Will the epoxy glue work? Or this is overkill?
>
>
>
>>Silicone is the best for gluing glass. It sticks to acrylic so-so.
>>Silicone II will stick to acrylic better, But for glass to glass I prefer
>>regular silicone over Sillicone II. I'm not a big fan of Sillicone II.
>>
>
>
>

[Pszemol]

"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message hlink.net...
> I would use a glass pannel and use silicone. Keep in mind
> though that later if you decide to take it out it will
> take a lot of going overs with a razor blade to get the
> last bit of silicone off. The front glass would be the
> only place that you would be trying to get every last bit
> of silicone off for good viewing.

I am not sure if this recovering 10g is even worth the time.
In my area, West from Chicago, ten gallon tanks sell in
retail below $10. I got one recently for my baby-clownfish for
$8.45 at "Pet Supply". PetCo and PetSmart sell it for around $9.99...

[davejnz]

i agree,your sump is way too small.I'm curious as to the size plumbing
of your overflow.Ther are many ways to improve flow rates for H.O.T.
overflows:increase plumbing size from 3/4" to 1"(this will require
cutting out a bigger hole),changing the height of the
standpipe,adding more teeth,adding another U-tube(if thats the style
of the overflow)etc..
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[TekCat]

That's exactly why I decided to go with 10G tank... very cheap, I got mine
at (don;t laugh) Wall-Mart, and if I screw it up, then I just toss it and
get another one. I don't think that they make them from temperate glass,
so if needed I could probably drill on it.



> I am not sure if this recovering 10g is even worth the time.
> In my area, West from Chicago, ten gallon tanks sell in
> retail below $10. I got one recently for my baby-clownfish for
> $8.45 at "Pet Supply". PetCo and PetSmart sell it for around $9.99...

[Wayne Sallee]

Oh wrong thread :-)

I was getting this thread confused with the "in tank sump"
thread.

Wayne Sallee


Pszemol wrote:
> "Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
> hlink.net...
>
>> I would use a glass pannel and use silicone. Keep in mind though that
>> later if you decide to take it out it will take a lot of going overs
>> with a razor blade to get the last bit of silicone off. The front
>> glass would be the only place that you would be trying to get every
>> last bit of silicone off for good viewing.
>
>
> I am not sure if this recovering 10g is even worth the time.
> In my area, West from Chicago, ten gallon tanks sell in
> retail below $10. I got one recently for my baby-clownfish for
> $8.45 at "Pet Supply". PetCo and PetSmart sell it for around $9.99...

[Pszemol]

"TekCat" > wrote in message ...
> I don't think that they make them from temperate glass,
> so if needed I could probably drill on it.

Bad news, my friend, they do them from tempered glass.
That is why the glass can be so, so, thin...

[davejnz]

I bought 2- 10gal from the LFS and had them drilled.Not sure of the
manufacturer but the kind we get down here aren't tempered.They are
currently in my garage with the rest of all my reef junk/old
equiptment.
----------------------------------------
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[Wayne Sallee]

TekCat wrote:
> I don't think that they make them from temperate glass,

Yep they don't make it out of temperate glass, they make
it out of tropical glass :-)

Wayne Sallee

[Pszemol]

"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message link.net...
> TekCat wrote:
>> I don't think that they make them from temperate glass,
>
> Yep they don't make it out of temperate glass, they make
> it out of tropical glass :-)

:-)))))

Anyway, it is easy to test what glass was used: just start drilling ;-)
I guess the tank is so cheap it is worth the try...

I am sure I saw red round stickers on the tanks at Walmart with
the words "tempered glass, do not drill".
If your tank did not have that label, TekCat it can mean two things:
they stopped using tempered glass, or they still use it, just stopped
using the labels :-)))