quarantine tank

[John B]

is a 10g enough? or is going to pose problems because it's small and
unstable?
I got a sailfin tang that's developing ich, so I dipped it in my roommate's
f/w tank for 10s, it seems to have slowed it down, but I need to medicate
it..should I just have a sick tank with some copper in it? Will that be
enough?

I have a 10g set up that I was going to make into a f/w plant tank, but i'll
change it to a s/w sick tank if it'd be benificial to have...it's got an
aquaclear mini filter, a heater, and an incandescent canopy...shouldn't have
lights if I'm trying to heal them i guess...I would just medicate my display
tank but I've got live rock in it..can't afford to kill it. :D

TIA,
John

[Marc Levenson]

If the fish isn't too large yet, the 10g will be fine for "sickbay".... I
wouldn't treat with copper myself. From what I've read on RC, dropping salinity
gradually over a few days, and keeping it low for 3 weeks, is the way to kill
ich and end any chance of a new outbreak later. Following that period, take a
few days to raise salinity again to match the display's and after acclimation
the fish can be put back in your reef.

Marc


John B wrote:

> is a 10g enough? or is going to pose problems because it's small and
> unstable?
> I got a sailfin tang that's developing ich, so I dipped it in my roommate's
> f/w tank for 10s, it seems to have slowed it down, but I need to medicate
> it..should I just have a sick tank with some copper in it? Will that be
> enough?
>
> I have a 10g set up that I was going to make into a f/w plant tank, but i'll
> change it to a s/w sick tank if it'd be benificial to have...it's got an
> aquaclear mini filter, a heater, and an incandescent canopy...shouldn't have
> lights if I'm trying to heal them i guess...I would just medicate my display
> tank but I've got live rock in it..can't afford to kill it. :D
>
> TIA,
> John

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[Marc Levenson]

Btw, feeding your fish with food soak in garlic will encourage a healthy
appetite, which will help the fish fight off the infection as well.

Marc





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[John B]

would that be just a crushed up clove of garlic in a bowl of water?

John

"Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
...
> Btw, feeding your fish with food soak in garlic will encourage a healthy
> appetite, which will help the fish fight off the infection as well.
>
> Marc
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
>
>

[Marc Levenson]

It is garlic extract. Formula One (and maybe Two) in *pellet* form has Garlic
already added to the food.

You could mince the garlic very finely and add it with the food, as it
stimulates the fish to eating.

Marc


John B wrote:

> would that be just a crushed up clove of garlic in a bowl of water?
>
> John
>
>

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Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
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[Richard Reynolds]

> is a 10g enough? or is going to pose problems because it's small and
> unstable?
> I got a sailfin tang that's developing ich, so I dipped it in my roommate's
> f/w tank for 10s, it seems to have slowed it down, but I need to medicate
> it..should I just have a sick tank with some copper in it? Will that be
> enough?

a 10 gallon tank will be ok for an 8" sailfin as long as you cover it and add something to
allow him to hide in, there are several things you can use, but SW safe plastic plants
work, and a bent up piece of dark acrylic will do also.

you say you gave it a FW dip but you said 10s I take that to be 10seconds, thats not
really enough to do anything except **** off a sick tang, consider at least 20 minutes, at
either FW or very very close. also dont use copper if you decide you have to use
medications use one of the other popular ones, I like greenX(??) this should only go into
your Q tank, also consider lowering salinity of the Q tank and cranking up the heat to
low 80's room lighting is enough for a fish.

consider spending the $10 on an empty bottom tank for use as a med/q tank it shouldnt need
to be setup normally so it can be stored away when not in use, its a good idea to do that
for a few reasons including it keeps you from deciding to use that tank :)

--
Richard Reynolds

[Fishnut]

On Wed, 10 Dec 2003 22:04:02 -0800, "Richard Reynolds"
> wrote:

>> is a 10g enough? or is going to pose problems because it's small and
>> unstable?
>> I got a sailfin tang that's developing ich, so I dipped it in my roommate's
>> f/w tank for 10s, it seems to have slowed it down, but I need to medicate
>> it..should I just have a sick tank with some copper in it? Will that be
>> enough?
>
>a 10 gallon tank will be ok for an 8" sailfin

You are joking, I assume ?



as long as you cover it and add something to
>allow him to hide in, there are several things you can use, but SW safe plastic plants
>work, and a bent up piece of dark acrylic will do also.
>
>you say you gave it a FW dip but you said 10s I take that to be 10seconds, thats not
>really enough to do anything except **** off a sick tang, consider at least 20 minutes, at
>either FW or very very close. also dont use copper if you decide you have to use
>medications use one of the other popular ones, I like greenX(??) this should only go into
>your Q tank, also consider lowering salinity of the Q tank and cranking up the heat to
>low 80's room lighting is enough for a fish.
>
>consider spending the $10 on an empty bottom tank for use as a med/q tank it shouldnt need
>to be setup normally so it can be stored away when not in use, its a good idea to do that
>for a few reasons including it keeps you from deciding to use that tank :)

[Richard Reynolds]

> >a 10 gallon tank will be ok for an 8" sailfin
>
> You are joking, I assume ?

not even close

though understand this isnt for normal use this is the imeadiate and temporary care of an
ill fish.

the goal is to get it back to your main tank as soon as its safe, and the sooner the
better.

ive used the same 10 H and Q tanks for a large number of large fish

sailfin tang
naso tang
scorpas tang

pink tailed trigger
medium porcupine puffer

and a few others.

--
Richard Reynolds

[Pszemol]

"Richard Reynolds" > wrote in message news:aN8Cb.1577$gN.548@fed1read05...
> though understand this isnt for normal use this is the imeadiate and temporary care of an
> ill fish.
>
> the goal is to get it back to your main tank as soon as its safe, and the sooner the
> better.
>
> ive used the same 10 H and Q tanks for a large number of large fish
>
> sailfin tang
> naso tang
> scorpas tang
>
> pink tailed trigger
> medium porcupine puffer
>
> and a few others.

What about the ammonia buildup in such a small water volume?

[Richard Reynolds]

> > ive used the same 10 H and Q tanks for a large number of large fish

> What about the ammonia buildup in such a small water volume?

ammonia and small water volume are handled the exact same way they are in a large water
volume :)

in MY Q tank I toss in a sponge filter, it will handle the bio load for even the heaviest
packed 40gallon grow out tanks :) I NEVER put meds in here

my H tank is a different story, generally I put meds in here generally these meds require
large waterchanges before the next dose, this alone takes care of ammonia. when they dont
require waterchanges generally I can do them anyways. this tank has NO bio filtration
anything added. also where possible I like to use one of the slime coat/ammonia removing
chemicals


--
Richard Reynolds

[CapFusion]

"Miguel" > wrote in message
...

> Hello,
>

Hi, wuz-up?



> I've read that setting up a quarantine tank it is a good idea to take the
> water from the display setup to the quarantine tank when doing a water
> change. As far as I'm aware as well a water change is also only required
> when the nitrates start climbing. Mine don't register a reading on the
test
> at this stage - Tank is just over 3 months old.

Check if the reading is correct on your test kit.
If reading is correct and nitrate undetectable, physically check with your
naked-eye if you see any algae going. Algae normally absorb by nitrate and
other. Main concern is algae but if other thing absorbing is no problem.
Reason I meantion algae is if uncheck, it may rampage or grow wild in your
tank. Other thing like bacteria and PS is taking out those nitrate, then
there no worry.

Note:
Eventhough nitrate is not detectable from your test kit, it does not mean it
not there. Unless if you know where nitrate went, then you know what going
on for sure if undetectable nitrate reading is correct from your test kit.


>
> The question here is... Is it ok to simply replace the water removed from
> the display tank with water out the ocean?
>

I do not truely understand your meaning above question.
What do you mean by "....water out the ocean"?
Do you mean, if it is safe to use water from the ocean? That depend what
area where you live and if it contaminate with other unwanted stuff.


> Any other tips for the quarantine tank?
>
> Display setup is ?0 gal including sump volume.
> Wet / dry trickle filter
> Protien skimmer (Jebo?)
> 3x Occelaris clowns (2 under an inch, One just over)
> 1x Surgeon (Not sure type but short of 2 inches)
> 1x Sailfin Tang (? inches)
> 2x Hermit crabs
> 1x Coral shrimp
> Some small snails
>

How big is your tank again? Somehow I miss the size you mention above. I see
something like "?0 gal...".



> It has been suggested that I replace some of the coral sand and obviously
> the water from the display tank to the quarantine tank. Purchase /
install
> under-gravel filter with powerhead and catch a sergent-major to reside in
> the tank. Tank is ?5 gal. Sound fair ??
>

Recommend from me not to use undergravel filter of any kind.
Recommend from me not to use coral sand if that can be help but to use any
fine uniform sand.

What do you mean by "...water from the display tank to the quarantine
tank."?
The quarantine tank or HT is simply to check for your new critter for any
disease and to acclimate them before placing to the main display tank.

CapFusion,...