Glass or Titanium

Hi,
I am setting up a 112 gallon discus tank. it is 36 wide , 24 deep and 30
tall. I was planning on usung 2 250 watt heaters. But I am concerned about
their reliability. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thank you

[NetMax]

> wrote in message
ink.net...
> Hi,
> I am setting up a 112 gallon discus tank. it is 36 wide , 24 deep and
> 30 tall. I was planning on usung 2 250 watt heaters. But I am
> concerned about their reliability. Does anyone have any suggestions?
> Thank you


In theory: heater adjustment & status is indicated by the pilot lamp, so
depending on where the pilot lamp is positioned for the titanium model,
there may be some operational difference. If the pilot lamp is in the
knob, then the titanium model does not necessarily offer any operational
difference. If the pilot lamp or other indicator is remote, then these
models usually have remote temperature sensors as well. This arrangement
is better for tracking temperature, as the sensor is not influenced by
the heater's elements. Otherwise, operationally, they would be the same.
Titanium's advantage is (iirc) improved thermal conductivity and it is
shatterproof (a useful attribute with Oscars and other large fish, but
nebulous with Discus).

That's an interesting shaped tank, 36 long, 24 wide and 30 deep makes
more sense to my ingrained way of thinking ;~). Other than being 6"
longer and 6" narrower than your depth, it's a box. I don't think you
will be able to reach the back corners from the front. Perfect tank to
build 5 or 6 plant ledges up the back to a height of about 20" using a
big chunk of carved cored painted sealed siliconed styrofoam. Could also
hide you intakes, outlets and heaters inside the structure, but there I
go again, being a bad influence on perfectly normal people.
--
www.NetMax.tk

[JG]

I have both.

If you have larger fish that like to move around rocks, equipment, etc. then
go with titanium. If not, then you're safe with a regular glass heater.
That said, there are a lot of glass heaters that can withstand the abuse of
a large Central or South American cichlid. I've found reliability to be
more of a factor with cheaper heaters.

J
www.jaysaquaria.com

> wrote in message
ink.net...
> Hi,
> I am setting up a 112 gallon discus tank. it is 36 wide , 24 deep and 30
> tall. I was planning on usung 2 250 watt heaters. But I am concerned
> about their reliability. Does anyone have any suggestions?
> Thank you
>

I recently started working in an aquarium store. I sold this second hand
custom tank to a client and I am putting together recommendation for
additional equipment (heater, filter and lights) as well as information on
the care of Discus. I really want this to be an enjoyable and successfull
experience for him .

I have had discus and I had moderate success - they lived a long time, but
I never thought they were in prime condition.

Fortunatly this tank is not for me - I am less that 5 feet tall! Lol but the
fellow buying it is several inches over 6 feet. So I think he will be ok.

The tank is a great shape - certainly boxy but with a roomy feeling to it.

Thank you for your information. I believe I will suggest glass heaters -
they are less expensicve and since I will place them at opposite sides of
the aquarium the benefit of a titanium heater with a probe is mute.

"NetMax" > wrote in message
...
> > wrote in message
> ink.net...
>> Hi,
>> I am setting up a 112 gallon discus tank. it is 36 wide , 24 deep and 30
>> tall. I was planning on usung 2 250 watt heaters. But I am concerned
>> about their reliability. Does anyone have any suggestions?
>> Thank you
>
>
> In theory: heater adjustment & status is indicated by the pilot lamp, so
> depending on where the pilot lamp is positioned for the titanium model,
> there may be some operational difference. If the pilot lamp is in the
> knob, then the titanium model does not necessarily offer any operational
> difference. If the pilot lamp or other indicator is remote, then these
> models usually have remote temperature sensors as well. This arrangement
> is better for tracking temperature, as the sensor is not influenced by the
> heater's elements. Otherwise, operationally, they would be the same.
> Titanium's advantage is (iirc) improved thermal conductivity and it is
> shatterproof (a useful attribute with Oscars and other large fish, but
> nebulous with Discus).
>
> That's an interesting shaped tank, 36 long, 24 wide and 30 deep makes more
> sense to my ingrained way of thinking ;~). Other than being 6" longer and
> 6" narrower than your depth, it's a box. I don't think you will be able
> to reach the back corners from the front. Perfect tank to build 5 or 6
> plant ledges up the back to a height of about 20" using a big chunk of
> carved cored painted sealed siliconed styrofoam. Could also hide you
> intakes, outlets and heaters inside the structure, but there I go again,
> being a bad influence on perfectly normal people.
> --
> www.NetMax.tk
>

[Roy]

The best heaters made and most reliable even if they are glass are
made by EBO-Jager now EHEIM-Jager....The better ones are virtually
shatterproof unless you go out of your way to destroy them......I
would pretty well bet if agressive marine fish don;t destroy a EBO
(EHIEIM) -Jager then the heaters would be just as safe in a freshwater
setup. EBO-Jagers have twice the thickness of any other pyrexx glass
tube heater, have built in auto shut-off if they are removed from
water, and are completely submersible.

Some good prices on heaters can be had at http://premiumaquatics.com
or http://bigalsonline.com





On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 04:00:55 GMT, > wrote:
Hi,
I am setting up a 112 gallon discus tank. it is 36 wide , 24 deep and
30
tall. I was planning on usung 2 250 watt heaters. But I am concerned
about
their reliability. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thank you


--
\\\|///
( @ @ )
-----------oOOo(_)oOOo---------------


oooO
---------( )----Oooo----------------
\ ( ( )
\_) ) /
(_/
The original frugal ponder! Koi-ahoi mates....

[Dr.]

> wrote in message
ink.net...
> Hi,
> I am setting up a 112 gallon discus tank. it is 36 wide , 24 deep and 30
> tall. I was planning on usung 2 250 watt heaters. But I am concerned
> about their reliability. Does anyone have any suggestions?
> Thank you

Personally, I'd choose an Eheim 2128 canister filter, which has an
integrated heater. Less junk to clutter up the tank. That filter is rated
for 159 gallons. I have one, and it's practically silent. Heater works well
also.

Gary

[Daniel Morrow]

Bottom posted.

--
You can find my public key at https://keyserver1.pgp.com
"Roy" > wrote in message
...
> The best heaters made and most reliable even if they are glass are
> made by EBO-Jager now EHEIM-Jager....The better ones are virtually
> shatterproof unless you go out of your way to destroy them......I
> would pretty well bet if agressive marine fish don;t destroy a EBO
> (EHIEIM) -Jager then the heaters would be just as safe in a freshwater
> setup. EBO-Jagers have twice the thickness of any other pyrexx glass
> tube heater, have built in auto shut-off if they are removed from
> water, and are completely submersible.
>
> Some good prices on heaters can be had at http://premiumaquatics.com
> or http://bigalsonline.com
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 04:00:55 GMT, > wrote:
> Hi,
> I am setting up a 112 gallon discus tank. it is 36 wide , 24 deep and
> 30
> tall. I was planning on usung 2 250 watt heaters. But I am concerned
> about
> their reliability. Does anyone have any suggestions?
> Thank you
>
>
> --
> \\\|///
> ( @ @ )
> -----------oOOo(_)oOOo---------------
>
>
> oooO
> ---------( )----Oooo----------------
> \ ( ( )
> \_) ) /
> (_/
> The original frugal ponder! Koi-ahoi mates....

Interesting - I have all ebo-agers, pretty cool to know I have the best! My
only complaint about mine is that they suffer from the same flaw that all
other remote probe-less submersible heaters have - the temperature sensor is
in with the heating coil(s) so the temperature setting on the heater is very
relative to other factors like ambient room temperature. My ebo-jagers have
been operating for a couple f years now with only occasional (seasonal -
when it gets cold for example) changes needing to be made. Some water gets
in them (osmosis, or generally speaking - diffusion) over time but that is
normal for all submersible heaters and I predict it will almost never be
practically prevented (might require a heater made of materials sealed
atomically by nanobots for example so there is no known way for water to get
in). Fortunately I have never needed to use the auto-shutoff feature but I
am impressed it is there. Thanks for the post roy! Good luck and later all!

[Roy]

Are you running your heaters totally submerged? If so ambient
temperature should not be a factor with them...I ran one EBO-Jager
submerged just to the bottom of the plastic upper portion as it just
was barely short enough to fit inside a hob refugium n a sal****er
tank, and I played heck trying to get it to stay stabil. I soon got
tired of messing with it, and submerged it in the tank itself and it
stabilized right out and kept real close temps.........I figured , ok,
cool its at the temp its supposed to be, so I once again put it in
thehob fuge.....and once again it left the temps vary....So I would
have to t hink totally submerged they should be fairly stabil and not
have an influx of ambient air.....

As a side note, EBO-Jagers are being closed out at super prices at a
lot of places, and the new Eiheim-Jagers are identical in every way to
the old EBO's however they tell you DO NOT SUBMERGE past a ine on the
heater assembly......Even though they are identical and only the name
changed UL requires a new certification of performance on them since
Eheim is not the original manufacturer and they are not labeld as
they were before, but its in name only as the same offshore company is
still making them under the Eheim name. Some were made in the USA in
California, and they closed that plant.......But anyway same identical
heater, but not curently approved for totsal submersion for lack of a
piece of paper with the new company name on it....FWIW , I just bought
sa bunch of new EBO and also Eheim Jager heaters and it was then I
noticed the little label on not submerging, so I called the companay
and they gave me the low down....its just a matter of paper work
catching up.
--
\\\|///
( @ @ )
-----------oOOo(_)oOOo---------------


oooO
---------( )----Oooo----------------
\ ( ( )
\_) ) /
(_/
The original frugal ponder! Koi-ahoi mates....

[Daniel Morrow]

Bottom posted.

--
You can find my public key at https://keyserver1.pgp.com
"Roy" > wrote in message
...
> Are you running your heaters totally submerged? If so ambient
> temperature should not be a factor with them...I ran one EBO-Jager
> submerged just to the bottom of the plastic upper portion as it just
> was barely short enough to fit inside a hob refugium n a sal****er
> tank, and I played heck trying to get it to stay stabil. I soon got
> tired of messing with it, and submerged it in the tank itself and it
> stabilized right out and kept real close temps.........I figured , ok,
> cool its at the temp its supposed to be, so I once again put it in
> thehob fuge.....and once again it left the temps vary....So I would
> have to t hink totally submerged they should be fairly stabil and not
> have an influx of ambient air.....
>
> As a side note, EBO-Jagers are being closed out at super prices at a
> lot of places, and the new Eiheim-Jagers are identical in every way to
> the old EBO's however they tell you DO NOT SUBMERGE past a ine on the
> heater assembly......Even though they are identical and only the name
> changed UL requires a new certification of performance on them since
> Eheim is not the original manufacturer and they are not labeld as
> they were before, but its in name only as the same offshore company is
> still making them under the Eheim name. Some were made in the USA in
> California, and they closed that plant.......But anyway same identical
> heater, but not curently approved for totsal submersion for lack of a
> piece of paper with the new company name on it....FWIW , I just bought
> sa bunch of new EBO and also Eheim Jager heaters and it was then I
> noticed the little label on not submerging, so I called the companay
> and they gave me the low down....its just a matter of paper work
> catching up.
> --
> \\\|///
> ( @ @ )
> -----------oOOo(_)oOOo---------------
>
>
> oooO
> ---------( )----Oooo----------------
> \ ( ( )
> \_) ) /
> (_/
> The original frugal ponder! Koi-ahoi mates....

I run mine totally submerged nearly on the bottom mostly (depending on which
tank). Maybe I am maxing my heaters out given the room temperature (until I
fix/repair the under-the-house heating ducts which got rusted out from a
leaky roof which leaked down the wall inside the wall so we didn't know
about it until recently) is a brisk 55 degrees fahrenheit in this house
right now. I did just read recently however (here in this newsgroup) that
the internal temperature sensor in submersible heaters have problems because
it isn't a separate probe, and that problem is temperature stability issues.
I know that my tanks are 5 or more degrees cooler this fall (and winter
isn't even here yet!) than last spring/summer even though I haven't changed
the temperature setting. The trouble I am having might be new though as a
year and I think the year ago before that I had no temperature issues,
although this year the house is a lot colder for fall/winter because of the
fact we don't want to pump hot air outside (the hot air would escape from
the heating ducts which I previously said were rusted out in a handful of
places under our house) and we don't want to waste too much energy, so we
are ruffing it this year and I plan on fixing the ducts hopefully within 2
weeks, depending on funding for the repair project. Good luck and later!