Help- Questions for a new tank set up...

[Susan]

Hi folks! Bought a used 75 gallon tank that I'm planning on transferring my
fish, inverts and corals into. I currently have a 46 gallon and a 29 gallon
tank set up that I want to combine into the 75 gallon. Now my
question...Anyone have any suggestions on what the best process would be to
get all of these transferred easily into the 75 gallon? I want to transfer
the rock and sand and everything but am confused how I can do all of this
and yet keep the 2 little tanks running until I get the 75 gallon cycled??
Any suggestions on how anyone has transferred tanks? Also, one last
question. It comes with a hood. I'm looking at maybe getting a retro fit
kit for the lighting. Any suggestions on what kind of lighting to get? ( Or
what not to get?) Also, I want to keep rasing soft corals( Mushrooms,
leather corals, zoanthids etc..) and I have a few clams. What should my
light power be?

Thanks in advance and Happy Holidays,
Susan :)

[Wayne Sallee]

For lighting, I'd go with two 250w mh lights.

For transfering, figure how much extra sand you will need.
Add the sand to the tank, and put your existing sand on
top of the new sand. Transfer the live rock and the fish
over. If you have any filters on the smaller tanks, put
them on the big tank along with whatever filters you plan
on having on the big tank, and you will be fine, as all
of the beneficial bacteria will have been transfered over.
Then after you have had the tank running for a while, you
can take the extra stuff off.


Wayne Sallee
Wayne's Pets



Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 1:02 PM:
> Hi folks! Bought a used 75 gallon tank that I'm planning on transferring my
> fish, inverts and corals into. I currently have a 46 gallon and a 29 gallon
> tank set up that I want to combine into the 75 gallon. Now my
> question...Anyone have any suggestions on what the best process would be to
> get all of these transferred easily into the 75 gallon? I want to transfer
> the rock and sand and everything but am confused how I can do all of this
> and yet keep the 2 little tanks running until I get the 75 gallon cycled??
> Any suggestions on how anyone has transferred tanks? Also, one last
> question. It comes with a hood. I'm looking at maybe getting a retro fit
> kit for the lighting. Any suggestions on what kind of lighting to get? ( Or
> what not to get?) Also, I want to keep rasing soft corals( Mushrooms,
> leather corals, zoanthids etc..) and I have a few clams. What should my
> light power be?
>
> Thanks in advance and Happy Holidays,
> Susan :)
>
>

[Susan]

Thanks Wayne! Does that mean the tank shouldn't need to cycle if the
existing sand and rock are transferred over and I use the same "seeded"
fluval filter system?

Thanks,
Susan
"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
...
> For lighting, I'd go with two 250w mh lights.
>
> For transfering, figure how much extra sand you will need. Add the sand to
> the tank, and put your existing sand on top of the new sand. Transfer the
> live rock and the fish over. If you have any filters on the smaller tanks,
> put them on the big tank along with whatever filters you plan on having on
> the big tank, and you will be fine, as all of the beneficial bacteria
> will have been transfered over. Then after you have had the tank running
> for a while, you can take the extra stuff off.
>
>
> Wayne Sallee
> Wayne's Pets
>
>
>
> Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 1:02 PM:
>> Hi folks! Bought a used 75 gallon tank that I'm planning on transferring
>> my fish, inverts and corals into. I currently have a 46 gallon and a 29
>> gallon tank set up that I want to combine into the 75 gallon. Now my
>> question...Anyone have any suggestions on what the best process would be
>> to get all of these transferred easily into the 75 gallon? I want to
>> transfer the rock and sand and everything but am confused how I can do
>> all of this and yet keep the 2 little tanks running until I get the 75
>> gallon cycled?? Any suggestions on how anyone has transferred tanks?
>> Also, one last question. It comes with a hood. I'm looking at maybe
>> getting a retro fit kit for the lighting. Any suggestions on what kind of
>> lighting to get? ( Or what not to get?) Also, I want to keep rasing soft
>> corals( Mushrooms, leather corals, zoanthids etc..) and I have a few
>> clams. What should my light power be?
>>
>> Thanks in advance and Happy Holidays,
>> Susan :)

[Wayne Sallee]

That's correct.


Wayne Sallee
Wayne's Pets



Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 4:12 PM:
> Thanks Wayne! Does that mean the tank shouldn't need to cycle if the
> existing sand and rock are transferred over and I use the same "seeded"
> fluval filter system?
>
> Thanks,
> Susan
> "Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>For lighting, I'd go with two 250w mh lights.
>>
>>For transfering, figure how much extra sand you will need. Add the sand to
>>the tank, and put your existing sand on top of the new sand. Transfer the
>>live rock and the fish over. If you have any filters on the smaller tanks,
>>put them on the big tank along with whatever filters you plan on having on
>>the big tank, and you will be fine, as all of the beneficial bacteria
>>will have been transfered over. Then after you have had the tank running
>>for a while, you can take the extra stuff off.
>>
>>
>>Wayne Sallee
>>Wayne's Pets

>>
>>
>>Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 1:02 PM:
>>
>>>Hi folks! Bought a used 75 gallon tank that I'm planning on transferring
>>>my fish, inverts and corals into. I currently have a 46 gallon and a 29
>>>gallon tank set up that I want to combine into the 75 gallon. Now my
>>>question...Anyone have any suggestions on what the best process would be
>>>to get all of these transferred easily into the 75 gallon? I want to
>>>transfer the rock and sand and everything but am confused how I can do
>>>all of this and yet keep the 2 little tanks running until I get the 75
>>>gallon cycled?? Any suggestions on how anyone has transferred tanks?
>>>Also, one last question. It comes with a hood. I'm looking at maybe
>>>getting a retro fit kit for the lighting. Any suggestions on what kind of
>>>lighting to get? ( Or what not to get?) Also, I want to keep rasing soft
>>>corals( Mushrooms, leather corals, zoanthids etc..) and I have a few
>>>clams. What should my light power be?
>>>
>>>Thanks in advance and Happy Holidays,
>>>Susan :)
>
>
>

[Wayne Sallee]

But don't cut back on water flow or filtration. What you
will have is esentualy the same thing, as moving a tank.

Wayne Sallee
Wayne's Pets



Wayne Sallee wrote on 12/17/2005 4:27 PM:
> That's correct.
>
>
> Wayne Sallee
> Wayne's Pets
>
>
>
> Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 4:12 PM:
>
>> Thanks Wayne! Does that mean the tank shouldn't need to cycle if the
>> existing sand and rock are transferred over and I use the same
>> "seeded" fluval filter system?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Susan
>> "Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>
>>> For lighting, I'd go with two 250w mh lights.
>>>
>>> For transfering, figure how much extra sand you will need. Add the
>>> sand to the tank, and put your existing sand on top of the new sand.
>>> Transfer the live rock and the fish over. If you have any filters on
>>> the smaller tanks, put them on the big tank along with whatever
>>> filters you plan on having on the big tank, and you will be fine, as
>>> all of the beneficial bacteria will have been transfered over. Then
>>> after you have had the tank running for a while, you can take the
>>> extra stuff off.
>>>
>>>
>>> Wayne Sallee
>>> Wayne's Pets
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 1:02 PM:
>>>
>>>> Hi folks! Bought a used 75 gallon tank that I'm planning on
>>>> transferring my fish, inverts and corals into. I currently have a
>>>> 46 gallon and a 29 gallon tank set up that I want to combine into
>>>> the 75 gallon. Now my question...Anyone have any suggestions on
>>>> what the best process would be to get all of these transferred
>>>> easily into the 75 gallon? I want to transfer the rock and sand and
>>>> everything but am confused how I can do all of this and yet keep
>>>> the 2 little tanks running until I get the 75 gallon cycled?? Any
>>>> suggestions on how anyone has transferred tanks? Also, one last
>>>> question. It comes with a hood. I'm looking at maybe getting a
>>>> retro fit kit for the lighting. Any suggestions on what kind of
>>>> lighting to get? ( Or what not to get?) Also, I want to keep rasing
>>>> soft corals( Mushrooms, leather corals, zoanthids etc..) and I have
>>>> a few clams. What should my light power be?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks in advance and Happy Holidays,
>>>> Susan :)
>>
>>
>>
>>

[Susan]

Thanks again, Wayne :) For the lighting would you suggest adding fans under
the canopy? If so, where do people install them on the canopy?

Thanks,
Susan :)
"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
...
> But don't cut back on water flow or filtration. What you will have is
> esentualy the same thing, as moving a tank.
>
> Wayne Sallee
> Wayne's Pets
>
>
>
> Wayne Sallee wrote on 12/17/2005 4:27 PM:
>> That's correct.
>>
>>
>> Wayne Sallee
>> Wayne's Pets
>>
>>
>>
>> Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 4:12 PM:
>>
>>> Thanks Wayne! Does that mean the tank shouldn't need to cycle if the
>>> existing sand and rock are transferred over and I use the same "seeded"
>>> fluval filter system?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Susan
>>> "Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
>>> ...
>>>
>>>> For lighting, I'd go with two 250w mh lights.
>>>>
>>>> For transfering, figure how much extra sand you will need. Add the sand
>>>> to the tank, and put your existing sand on top of the new sand.
>>>> Transfer the live rock and the fish over. If you have any filters on
>>>> the smaller tanks, put them on the big tank along with whatever filters
>>>> you plan on having on the big tank, and you will be fine, as all of
>>>> the beneficial bacteria will have been transfered over. Then after you
>>>> have had the tank running for a while, you can take the extra stuff
>>>> off.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Wayne Sallee
>>>> Wayne's Pets
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 1:02 PM:
>>>>
>>>>> Hi folks! Bought a used 75 gallon tank that I'm planning on
>>>>> transferring my fish, inverts and corals into. I currently have a 46
>>>>> gallon and a 29 gallon tank set up that I want to combine into the 75
>>>>> gallon. Now my question...Anyone have any suggestions on what the
>>>>> best process would be to get all of these transferred easily into the
>>>>> 75 gallon? I want to transfer the rock and sand and everything but am
>>>>> confused how I can do all of this and yet keep the 2 little tanks
>>>>> running until I get the 75 gallon cycled?? Any suggestions on how
>>>>> anyone has transferred tanks? Also, one last question. It comes with
>>>>> a hood. I'm looking at maybe getting a retro fit kit for the
>>>>> lighting. Any suggestions on what kind of lighting to get? ( Or what
>>>>> not to get?) Also, I want to keep rasing soft corals( Mushrooms,
>>>>> leather corals, zoanthids etc..) and I have a few clams. What should
>>>>> my light power be?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks in advance and Happy Holidays,
>>>>> Susan :)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>

[sdsdev]

"Susan" > wrote in message
.. .
> Thanks again, Wayne :) For the lighting would you suggest adding fans
> under the canopy? If so, where do people install them on the canopy?
>
> Thanks,
> Susan :)
> "Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
> ...
>> But don't cut back on water flow or filtration. What you will have is
>> esentualy the same thing, as moving a tank.
>>
>> Wayne Sallee
>> Wayne's Pets
>>
>>
>>
>> Wayne Sallee wrote on 12/17/2005 4:27 PM:
>>> That's correct.
>>>
>>>
>>> Wayne Sallee
>>> Wayne's Pets
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 4:12 PM:
>>>
>>>> Thanks Wayne! Does that mean the tank shouldn't need to cycle if the
>>>> existing sand and rock are transferred over and I use the same "seeded"
>>>> fluval filter system?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Susan
>>>> "Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
>>>> ...
>>>>
>>>>> For lighting, I'd go with two 250w mh lights.
>>>>>
>>>>> For transfering, figure how much extra sand you will need. Add the
>>>>> sand to the tank, and put your existing sand on top of the new sand.
>>>>> Transfer the live rock and the fish over. If you have any filters on
>>>>> the smaller tanks, put them on the big tank along with whatever
>>>>> filters you plan on having on the big tank, and you will be fine, as
>>>>> all of the beneficial bacteria will have been transfered over. Then
>>>>> after you have had the tank running for a while, you can take the
>>>>> extra stuff off.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Wayne Sallee
>>>>> Wayne's Pets
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 1:02 PM:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Hi folks! Bought a used 75 gallon tank that I'm planning on
>>>>>> transferring my fish, inverts and corals into. I currently have a 46
>>>>>> gallon and a 29 gallon tank set up that I want to combine into the 75
>>>>>> gallon. Now my question...Anyone have any suggestions on what the
>>>>>> best process would be to get all of these transferred easily into the
>>>>>> 75 gallon? I want to transfer the rock and sand and everything but
>>>>>> am confused how I can do all of this and yet keep the 2 little tanks
>>>>>> running until I get the 75 gallon cycled?? Any suggestions on how
>>>>>> anyone has transferred tanks? Also, one last question. It comes with
>>>>>> a hood. I'm looking at maybe getting a retro fit kit for the
>>>>>> lighting. Any suggestions on what kind of lighting to get? ( Or what
>>>>>> not to get?) Also, I want to keep rasing soft corals( Mushrooms,
>>>>>> leather corals, zoanthids etc..) and I have a few clams. What
>>>>>> should my light power be?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks in advance and Happy Holidays,
>>>>>> Susan :)
>>>

You can mount fans in the end sides of the canopy to draw air or I have seen
some people mount them in the actual tops.
Both of my tanks have either 2 -5" fans (Dual MH in canopy) or 2-4" fans(VHO
& T5 mix) in the ends blowing air in and letting it go out back. Works great
and keeps the temp down.

[Susan]

Thanks for the info :) Do you just cut out an area in the canopy for the
fans?

Thanks again,
Susan
"sdsdev" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Susan" > wrote in message
> .. .
>> Thanks again, Wayne :) For the lighting would you suggest adding fans
>> under the canopy? If so, where do people install them on the canopy?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Susan :)
>> "Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> But don't cut back on water flow or filtration. What you will have is
>>> esentualy the same thing, as moving a tank.
>>>
>>> Wayne Sallee
>>> Wayne's Pets
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Wayne Sallee wrote on 12/17/2005 4:27 PM:
>>>> That's correct.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Wayne Sallee
>>>> Wayne's Pets
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 4:12 PM:
>>>>
>>>>> Thanks Wayne! Does that mean the tank shouldn't need to cycle if the
>>>>> existing sand and rock are transferred over and I use the same
>>>>> "seeded" fluval filter system?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>> Susan
>>>>> "Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
>>>>> ...
>>>>>
>>>>>> For lighting, I'd go with two 250w mh lights.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> For transfering, figure how much extra sand you will need. Add the
>>>>>> sand to the tank, and put your existing sand on top of the new sand.
>>>>>> Transfer the live rock and the fish over. If you have any filters on
>>>>>> the smaller tanks, put them on the big tank along with whatever
>>>>>> filters you plan on having on the big tank, and you will be fine, as
>>>>>> all of the beneficial bacteria will have been transfered over. Then
>>>>>> after you have had the tank running for a while, you can take the
>>>>>> extra stuff off.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Wayne Sallee
>>>>>> Wayne's Pets
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 1:02 PM:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Hi folks! Bought a used 75 gallon tank that I'm planning on
>>>>>>> transferring my fish, inverts and corals into. I currently have a
>>>>>>> 46 gallon and a 29 gallon tank set up that I want to combine into
>>>>>>> the 75 gallon. Now my question...Anyone have any suggestions on
>>>>>>> what the best process would be to get all of these transferred
>>>>>>> easily into the 75 gallon? I want to transfer the rock and sand and
>>>>>>> everything but am confused how I can do all of this and yet keep
>>>>>>> the 2 little tanks running until I get the 75 gallon cycled?? Any
>>>>>>> suggestions on how anyone has transferred tanks? Also, one last
>>>>>>> question. It comes with a hood. I'm looking at maybe getting a
>>>>>>> retro fit kit for the lighting. Any suggestions on what kind of
>>>>>>> lighting to get? ( Or what not to get?) Also, I want to keep rasing
>>>>>>> soft corals( Mushrooms, leather corals, zoanthids etc..) and I have
>>>>>>> a few clams. What should my light power be?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks in advance and Happy Holidays,
>>>>>>> Susan :)
>>>>
>
> You can mount fans in the end sides of the canopy to draw air or I have
> seen some people mount them in the actual tops.
> Both of my tanks have either 2 -5" fans (Dual MH in canopy) or 2-4"
> fans(VHO & T5 mix) in the ends blowing air in and letting it go out back.
> Works great and keeps the temp down.
>
>

[Wayne Sallee]

Most people install one fan blowing in, and one fan
blowing out, but as sds said there are several ways it can
be done. You want to blow cool air acros the tank. Don't
worry about trying to cool the bubls, but cool the tank.
Air blowing across the water does the best job of cooling
the tank.

Wayne Sallee
Wayne's Pets



Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 6:11 PM:
> Thanks again, Wayne :) For the lighting would you suggest adding fans under
> the canopy? If so, where do people install them on the canopy?
>
> Thanks,
> Susan :)
> "Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>But don't cut back on water flow or filtration. What you will have is
>>esentualy the same thing, as moving a tank.
>>
>>Wayne Sallee
>>Wayne's Pets

>>
>>
>>Wayne Sallee wrote on 12/17/2005 4:27 PM:
>>
>>>That's correct.
>>>
>>>
>>>Wayne Sallee
>>>Wayne's Pets

>>>
>>>
>>>Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 4:12 PM:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Thanks Wayne! Does that mean the tank shouldn't need to cycle if the
>>>>existing sand and rock are transferred over and I use the same "seeded"
>>>>fluval filter system?
>>>>
>>>>Thanks,
>>>>Susan
>>>>"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>For lighting, I'd go with two 250w mh lights.
>>>>>
>>>>>For transfering, figure how much extra sand you will need. Add the sand
>>>>>to the tank, and put your existing sand on top of the new sand.
>>>>>Transfer the live rock and the fish over. If you have any filters on
>>>>>the smaller tanks, put them on the big tank along with whatever filters
>>>>>you plan on having on the big tank, and you will be fine, as all of
>>>>>the beneficial bacteria will have been transfered over. Then after you
>>>>>have had the tank running for a while, you can take the extra stuff
>>>>>off.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Wayne Sallee
>>>>>Wayne's Pets

>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 1:02 PM:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Hi folks! Bought a used 75 gallon tank that I'm planning on
>>>>>>transferring my fish, inverts and corals into. I currently have a 46
>>>>>>gallon and a 29 gallon tank set up that I want to combine into the 75
>>>>>>gallon. Now my question...Anyone have any suggestions on what the
>>>>>>best process would be to get all of these transferred easily into the
>>>>>>75 gallon? I want to transfer the rock and sand and everything but am
>>>>>>confused how I can do all of this and yet keep the 2 little tanks
>>>>>>running until I get the 75 gallon cycled?? Any suggestions on how
>>>>>>anyone has transferred tanks? Also, one last question. It comes with
>>>>>>a hood. I'm looking at maybe getting a retro fit kit for the
>>>>>>lighting. Any suggestions on what kind of lighting to get? ( Or what
>>>>>>not to get?) Also, I want to keep rasing soft corals( Mushrooms,
>>>>>>leather corals, zoanthids etc..) and I have a few clams. What should
>>>>>>my light power be?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Thanks in advance and Happy Holidays,
>>>>>>Susan :)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>
>

[Wayne Sallee]

Yep, but get your light installed and your fans before
cutting the holes. Normal output lights don't require a
fan in the hood. It's the high intensity lights that bring
about the need for fans.

Wayne Sallee
Wayne's Pets



Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 7:34 PM:
> Thanks for the info :) Do you just cut out an area in the canopy for the
> fans?
>
> Thanks again,
> Susan
> "sdsdev" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>"Susan" > wrote in message
.. .
>>
>>>Thanks again, Wayne :) For the lighting would you suggest adding fans
>>>under the canopy? If so, where do people install them on the canopy?
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>Susan :)
>>>"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
...
>>>
>>>>But don't cut back on water flow or filtration. What you will have is
>>>>esentualy the same thing, as moving a tank.
>>>>
>>>>Wayne Sallee
>>>>Wayne's Pets

>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Wayne Sallee wrote on 12/17/2005 4:27 PM:
>>>>
>>>>>That's correct.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Wayne Sallee
>>>>>Wayne's Pets

>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 4:12 PM:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Thanks Wayne! Does that mean the tank shouldn't need to cycle if the
>>>>>>existing sand and rock are transferred over and I use the same
>>>>>>"seeded" fluval filter system?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Thanks,
>>>>>>Susan
>>>>>>"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
...
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>For lighting, I'd go with two 250w mh lights.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>For transfering, figure how much extra sand you will need. Add the
>>>>>>>sand to the tank, and put your existing sand on top of the new sand.
>>>>>>>Transfer the live rock and the fish over. If you have any filters on
>>>>>>>the smaller tanks, put them on the big tank along with whatever
>>>>>>>filters you plan on having on the big tank, and you will be fine, as
>>>>>>>all of the beneficial bacteria will have been transfered over. Then
>>>>>>>after you have had the tank running for a while, you can take the
>>>>>>>extra stuff off.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Wayne Sallee
>>>>>>>Wayne's Pets

>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 1:02 PM:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Hi folks! Bought a used 75 gallon tank that I'm planning on
>>>>>>>>transferring my fish, inverts and corals into. I currently have a
>>>>>>>>46 gallon and a 29 gallon tank set up that I want to combine into
>>>>>>>>the 75 gallon. Now my question...Anyone have any suggestions on
>>>>>>>>what the best process would be to get all of these transferred
>>>>>>>>easily into the 75 gallon? I want to transfer the rock and sand and
>>>>>>>>everything but am confused how I can do all of this and yet keep
>>>>>>>>the 2 little tanks running until I get the 75 gallon cycled?? Any
>>>>>>>>suggestions on how anyone has transferred tanks? Also, one last
>>>>>>>>question. It comes with a hood. I'm looking at maybe getting a
>>>>>>>>retro fit kit for the lighting. Any suggestions on what kind of
>>>>>>>>lighting to get? ( Or what not to get?) Also, I want to keep rasing
>>>>>>>>soft corals( Mushrooms, leather corals, zoanthids etc..) and I have
>>>>>>>>a few clams. What should my light power be?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Thanks in advance and Happy Holidays,
>>>>>>>>Susan :)
>>>>>
>>You can mount fans in the end sides of the canopy to draw air or I have
>>seen some people mount them in the actual tops.
>>Both of my tanks have either 2 -5" fans (Dual MH in canopy) or 2-4"
>>fans(VHO & T5 mix) in the ends blowing air in and letting it go out back.
>>Works great and keeps the temp down.
>>
>>
>
>
>

[sdsdev]

Susan as Wayne said mount your lights first and then figure out where your
fan will go. Don't want a fan hitting a light or mount. I used 12V fans with
a converter to run them and they come on at same time as the lights and off
about 30 min later after the lights shut down(same timer turns my 6" fuge
fans off/on). They are also thermal fans so they speed up and slow down
according to the temp in the canopy.
You can just use a hole saw to cut the holes. Mine are mounted closer to the
water line than to the lights. It not only cools the surface of the water by
blowing over it but also forces cool air into the canopy and forcing the
warm out. Also as Wayne said you can do them blowing in, 1 in and 1 out etc.
I have found that if they pull air out closer to the water the fans collect
some salt dust/spray on them that may lessen the operating life.....Another
tip on making them quieter is to put small rubber "O" rings in-between each
screw hole on the fan and the canopy. It kills some vibration from the fans
and any hum they may put out.




"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
...
> Most people install one fan blowing in, and one fan blowing out, but as
> sds said there are several ways it can be done. You want to blow cool air
> acros the tank. Don't worry about trying to cool the bubls, but cool the
> tank. Air blowing across the water does the best job of cooling the tank.
>
> Wayne Sallee
> Wayne's Pets
>
>
>
> Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 6:11 PM:
>> Thanks again, Wayne :) For the lighting would you suggest adding fans
>> under the canopy? If so, where do people install them on the canopy?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Susan :)
>> "Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>
>>>But don't cut back on water flow or filtration. What you will have is
>>>esentualy the same thing, as moving a tank.
>>>
>>>Wayne Sallee
>>>Wayne's Pets

>>>
>>>
>>>Wayne Sallee wrote on 12/17/2005 4:27 PM:
>>>
>>>>That's correct.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Wayne Sallee
>>>>Wayne's Pets

>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 4:12 PM:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Thanks Wayne! Does that mean the tank shouldn't need to cycle if the
>>>>>existing sand and rock are transferred over and I use the same "seeded"
>>>>>fluval filter system?
>>>>>
>>>>>Thanks,
>>>>>Susan
>>>>>"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
...
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>For lighting, I'd go with two 250w mh lights.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>For transfering, figure how much extra sand you will need. Add the
>>>>>>sand to the tank, and put your existing sand on top of the new sand.
>>>>>>Transfer the live rock and the fish over. If you have any filters on
>>>>>>the smaller tanks, put them on the big tank along with whatever
>>>>>>filters you plan on having on the big tank, and you will be fine, as
>>>>>>all of the beneficial bacteria will have been transfered over. Then
>>>>>>after you have had the tank running for a while, you can take the
>>>>>>extra stuff off.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Wayne Sallee
>>>>>>Wayne's Pets

>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 1:02 PM:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Hi folks! Bought a used 75 gallon tank that I'm planning on
>>>>>>>transferring my fish, inverts and corals into. I currently have a 46
>>>>>>>gallon and a 29 gallon tank set up that I want to combine into the 75
>>>>>>>gallon. Now my question...Anyone have any suggestions on what the
>>>>>>>best process would be to get all of these transferred easily into the
>>>>>>>75 gallon? I want to transfer the rock and sand and everything but
>>>>>>>am confused how I can do all of this and yet keep the 2 little tanks
>>>>>>>running until I get the 75 gallon cycled?? Any suggestions on how
>>>>>>>anyone has transferred tanks? Also, one last question. It comes with
>>>>>>>a hood. I'm looking at maybe getting a retro fit kit for the
>>>>>>>lighting. Any suggestions on what kind of lighting to get? ( Or what
>>>>>>>not to get?) Also, I want to keep rasing soft corals( Mushrooms,
>>>>>>>leather corals, zoanthids etc..) and I have a few clams. What
>>>>>>>should my light power be?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Thanks in advance and Happy Holidays,
>>>>>>>Susan :)
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>

[Susan]

Thanks guys for the excellent helpful info! Can't wait to get it all set
up. I'll have to see what kind of lighting I can find. If anyone knows of
a good (and of course cheap ;-) ) place to find a light let me know.

Thanks again,
Susan :)
"sdsdev" > wrote in message
...
> Susan as Wayne said mount your lights first and then figure out where your
> fan will go. Don't want a fan hitting a light or mount. I used 12V fans
> with a converter to run them and they come on at same time as the lights
> and off about 30 min later after the lights shut down(same timer turns my
> 6" fuge fans off/on). They are also thermal fans so they speed up and slow
> down according to the temp in the canopy.
> You can just use a hole saw to cut the holes. Mine are mounted closer to
> the water line than to the lights. It not only cools the surface of the
> water by blowing over it but also forces cool air into the canopy and
> forcing the warm out. Also as Wayne said you can do them blowing in, 1 in
> and 1 out etc. I have found that if they pull air out closer to the water
> the fans collect some salt dust/spray on them that may lessen the
> operating life.....Another tip on making them quieter is to put small
> rubber "O" rings in-between each screw hole on the fan and the canopy. It
> kills some vibration from the fans and any hum they may put out.
>
>
>
>
> "Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Most people install one fan blowing in, and one fan blowing out, but as
>> sds said there are several ways it can be done. You want to blow cool air
>> acros the tank. Don't worry about trying to cool the bubls, but cool the
>> tank. Air blowing across the water does the best job of cooling the tank.
>>
>> Wayne Sallee
>> Wayne's Pets
>>
>>
>>
>> Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 6:11 PM:
>>> Thanks again, Wayne :) For the lighting would you suggest adding fans
>>> under the canopy? If so, where do people install them on the canopy?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Susan :)
>>> "Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
>>> ...
>>>
>>>>But don't cut back on water flow or filtration. What you will have is
>>>>esentualy the same thing, as moving a tank.
>>>>
>>>>Wayne Sallee
>>>>Wayne's Pets

>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Wayne Sallee wrote on 12/17/2005 4:27 PM:
>>>>
>>>>>That's correct.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Wayne Sallee
>>>>>Wayne's Pets

>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 4:12 PM:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Thanks Wayne! Does that mean the tank shouldn't need to cycle if the
>>>>>>existing sand and rock are transferred over and I use the same
>>>>>>"seeded" fluval filter system?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Thanks,
>>>>>>Susan
>>>>>>"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
...
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>For lighting, I'd go with two 250w mh lights.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>For transfering, figure how much extra sand you will need. Add the
>>>>>>>sand to the tank, and put your existing sand on top of the new sand.
>>>>>>>Transfer the live rock and the fish over. If you have any filters on
>>>>>>>the smaller tanks, put them on the big tank along with whatever
>>>>>>>filters you plan on having on the big tank, and you will be fine, as
>>>>>>>all of the beneficial bacteria will have been transfered over. Then
>>>>>>>after you have had the tank running for a while, you can take the
>>>>>>>extra stuff off.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Wayne Sallee
>>>>>>>Wayne's Pets

>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 1:02 PM:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Hi folks! Bought a used 75 gallon tank that I'm planning on
>>>>>>>>transferring my fish, inverts and corals into. I currently have a
>>>>>>>>46 gallon and a 29 gallon tank set up that I want to combine into
>>>>>>>>the 75 gallon. Now my question...Anyone have any suggestions on
>>>>>>>>what the best process would be to get all of these transferred
>>>>>>>>easily into the 75 gallon? I want to transfer the rock and sand and
>>>>>>>>everything but am confused how I can do all of this and yet keep
>>>>>>>>the 2 little tanks running until I get the 75 gallon cycled?? Any
>>>>>>>>suggestions on how anyone has transferred tanks? Also, one last
>>>>>>>>question. It comes with a hood. I'm looking at maybe getting a
>>>>>>>>retro fit kit for the lighting. Any suggestions on what kind of
>>>>>>>>lighting to get? ( Or what not to get?) Also, I want to keep rasing
>>>>>>>>soft corals( Mushrooms, leather corals, zoanthids etc..) and I have
>>>>>>>>a few clams. What should my light power be?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Thanks in advance and Happy Holidays,
>>>>>>>>Susan :)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>
>

[sdsdev]

http://www.hellolights.com and http://www.reefgeek.com has some good
prices on items. The second is more of a DIY place for lighting. Hellolights
has some good specials and great customer service.


"Susan" > wrote in message
...
> Thanks guys for the excellent helpful info! Can't wait to get it all set
> up. I'll have to see what kind of lighting I can find. If anyone knows
> of a good (and of course cheap ;-) ) place to find a light let me know.
>
> Thanks again,
> Susan :)
> "sdsdev" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Susan as Wayne said mount your lights first and then figure out where
>> your fan will go. Don't want a fan hitting a light or mount. I used 12V
>> fans with a converter to run them and they come on at same time as the
>> lights and off about 30 min later after the lights shut down(same timer
>> turns my 6" fuge fans off/on). They are also thermal fans so they speed
>> up and slow down according to the temp in the canopy.
>> You can just use a hole saw to cut the holes. Mine are mounted closer to
>> the water line than to the lights. It not only cools the surface of the
>> water by blowing over it but also forces cool air into the canopy and
>> forcing the warm out. Also as Wayne said you can do them blowing in, 1 in
>> and 1 out etc. I have found that if they pull air out closer to the water
>> the fans collect some salt dust/spray on them that may lessen the
>> operating life.....Another tip on making them quieter is to put small
>> rubber "O" rings in-between each screw hole on the fan and the canopy. It
>> kills some vibration from the fans and any hum they may put out.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> Most people install one fan blowing in, and one fan blowing out, but as
>>> sds said there are several ways it can be done. You want to blow cool
>>> air acros the tank. Don't worry about trying to cool the bubls, but cool
>>> the tank. Air blowing across the water does the best job of cooling the
>>> tank.
>>>
>>> Wayne Sallee
>>> Wayne's Pets
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 6:11 PM:
>>>> Thanks again, Wayne :) For the lighting would you suggest adding fans
>>>> under the canopy? If so, where do people install them on the canopy?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Susan :)
>>>> "Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
>>>> ...
>>>>
>>>>>But don't cut back on water flow or filtration. What you will have is
>>>>>esentualy the same thing, as moving a tank.
>>>>>
>>>>>Wayne Sallee
>>>>>Wayne's Pets

>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Wayne Sallee wrote on 12/17/2005 4:27 PM:
>>>>>
>>>>>>That's correct.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Wayne Sallee
>>>>>>Wayne's Pets

>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 4:12 PM:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Thanks Wayne! Does that mean the tank shouldn't need to cycle if the
>>>>>>>existing sand and rock are transferred over and I use the same
>>>>>>>"seeded" fluval filter system?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Thanks,
>>>>>>>Susan
>>>>>>>"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>For lighting, I'd go with two 250w mh lights.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>For transfering, figure how much extra sand you will need. Add the
>>>>>>>>sand to the tank, and put your existing sand on top of the new sand.
>>>>>>>>Transfer the live rock and the fish over. If you have any filters on
>>>>>>>>the smaller tanks, put them on the big tank along with whatever
>>>>>>>>filters you plan on having on the big tank, and you will be fine,
>>>>>>>>as all of the beneficial bacteria will have been transfered over.
>>>>>>>>Then after you have had the tank running for a while, you can take
>>>>>>>>the extra stuff off.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Wayne Sallee
>>>>>>>>Wayne's Pets

>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 1:02 PM:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>Hi folks! Bought a used 75 gallon tank that I'm planning on
>>>>>>>>>transferring my fish, inverts and corals into. I currently have a
>>>>>>>>>46 gallon and a 29 gallon tank set up that I want to combine into
>>>>>>>>>the 75 gallon. Now my question...Anyone have any suggestions on
>>>>>>>>>what the best process would be to get all of these transferred
>>>>>>>>>easily into the 75 gallon? I want to transfer the rock and sand and
>>>>>>>>>everything but am confused how I can do all of this and yet keep
>>>>>>>>>the 2 little tanks running until I get the 75 gallon cycled?? Any
>>>>>>>>>suggestions on how anyone has transferred tanks? Also, one last
>>>>>>>>>question. It comes with a hood. I'm looking at maybe getting a
>>>>>>>>>retro fit kit for the lighting. Any suggestions on what kind of
>>>>>>>>>lighting to get? ( Or what not to get?) Also, I want to keep
>>>>>>>>>rasing soft corals( Mushrooms, leather corals, zoanthids etc..)
>>>>>>>>>and I have a few clams. What should my light power be?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>Thanks in advance and Happy Holidays,
>>>>>>>>>Susan :)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>
>>
>
>

[Roy]

Seems the majority of foloks agree its best to blow air in and not
have any fan pulling air out, since the air can cause corrosion in the
fans. If you have an equal sized or just slightly larger "vent" to
allow the air pulled in, to escape from your fine. Most if not all of
the current manufacturers of light assemblys only have fans pulling
air in, and the same equal sized openings less fans for vents.......If
you can blow air in along the length of the bulbs and out the opposite
end. It heps cool the bulbs and covers a larger lengthwise portion of
the tank. Look for 2 VDC fans, and look for decibel ratings......as
yoiur looking for quietness as well. Typically the faster a fan runs
and the more air it moves the ouder the noise they make. Just ball
park figure how many cubic inches / feet of air are under your hood,
from the top of the water to the bottom of the hood, times length and
width....and match up a fan(s) to suit that cubic inch / feet of
volume. More is better than less. If you go with 12 VDC, you can buy a
voltage adjustable powersupply so you can also regulate the fans speed
which does come in handy a ot of time.......We heat with a wood stove,
so our heat is not all that uniform, so in winter we generally run the
hood fans a bit higher in speed, but in summer when the house is air
conditioned, we can reduce the fans speeds.......The adjustable
powersupplys are typical plug in the wall transformers with a slide
switch and can be found at Wal MArts and RAdio shack and lots of other
places for under $20.00 Another good thing to have with the fans is
a filter of some sort. I use a piece of 1/4" thick foam or some fine
bridal type nylon mesh/netting as you would be surprised how much
lint and hair etc they can pull into the tank if not caught in a
filter. Just place foam or netting infront of fan or under the fans
grill, and it works fine. Just hit it with a vac cleaner from time to
time and it pulls out any accumulated lint etc without the need to
remove it to clean it.

On Sun, 18 Dec 2005 00:47:53 GMT, Wayne Sallee >
wrote:
Most people install one fan blowing in, and one fan
blowing out, but as sds said there are several ways it can
be done. You want to blow cool air acros the tank. Don't
worry about trying to cool the bubls, but cool the tank.
Air blowing across the water does the best job of cooling
the tank.

Wayne Sallee
Wayne's Pets



Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 6:11 PM:
> Thanks again, Wayne :) For the lighting would you suggest adding fans under
> the canopy? If so, where do people install them on the canopy?
>
> Thanks,
> Susan :)
> "Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>But don't cut back on water flow or filtration. What you will have is
>>esentualy the same thing, as moving a tank.
>>
>>Wayne Sallee
>>Wayne's Pets

>>
>>
>>Wayne Sallee wrote on 12/17/2005 4:27 PM:
>>
>>>That's correct.
>>>
>>>
>>>Wayne Sallee
>>>Wayne's Pets

>>>
>>>
>>>Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 4:12 PM:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Thanks Wayne! Does that mean the tank shouldn't need to cycle if the
>>>>existing sand and rock are transferred over and I use the same "seeded"
>>>>fluval filter system?
>>>>
>>>>Thanks,
>>>>Susan
>>>>"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>For lighting, I'd go with two 250w mh lights.
>>>>>
>>>>>For transfering, figure how much extra sand you will need. Add the sand
>>>>>to the tank, and put your existing sand on top of the new sand.
>>>>>Transfer the live rock and the fish over. If you have any filters on
>>>>>the smaller tanks, put them on the big tank along with whatever filters
>>>>>you plan on having on the big tank, and you will be fine, as all of
>>>>>the beneficial bacteria will have been transfered over. Then after you
>>>>>have had the tank running for a while, you can take the extra stuff
>>>>>off.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Wayne Sallee
>>>>>Wayne's Pets

>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Susan wrote on 12/17/2005 1:02 PM:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Hi folks! Bought a used 75 gallon tank that I'm planning on
>>>>>>transferring my fish, inverts and corals into. I currently have a 46
>>>>>>gallon and a 29 gallon tank set up that I want to combine into the 75
>>>>>>gallon. Now my question...Anyone have any suggestions on what the
>>>>>>best process would be to get all of these transferred easily into the
>>>>>>75 gallon? I want to transfer the rock and sand and everything but am
>>>>>>confused how I can do all of this and yet keep the 2 little tanks
>>>>>>running until I get the 75 gallon cycled?? Any suggestions on how
>>>>>>anyone has transferred tanks? Also, one last question. It comes with
>>>>>>a hood. I'm looking at maybe getting a retro fit kit for the
>>>>>>lighting. Any suggestions on what kind of lighting to get? ( Or what
>>>>>>not to get?) Also, I want to keep rasing soft corals( Mushrooms,
>>>>>>leather corals, zoanthids etc..) and I have a few clams. What should
>>>>>>my light power be?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Thanks in advance and Happy Holidays,
>>>>>>Susan :)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>
>

--
\\\|///
( @ @ )
-----------oOOo(_)oOOo---------------


oooO
---------( )----Oooo----------------
\ ( ( )
\_) ) /
(_/
The original frugal ponder! Koi-ahoi mates....

[RicSeyler]

The most efficient way is to have all fans blowing in...........
The hot air will work it's way out without a fan pulling.

Wayne Sallee wrote:

> Most people install one fan blowing in, and one fan blowing out, but
> as sds said there are several ways it can be done. You want to blow
> cool air acros the tank. Don't worry about trying to cool the bubls,
> but cool the tank. Air blowing across the water does the best job of
> cooling the tank.


--
Ric Seyler
Online Racing: RicSeyler
GPL Handicap 6.35

http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler
remove –SPAM- from email address
--------------------------------------
"Homer no function beer well without."
- H.J. Simpson

[Susan]

Thanks again for all the helpful info!

Susan :)
"RicSeyler" > wrote in message
.. .
> The most efficient way is to have all fans blowing in...........
> The hot air will work it's way out without a fan pulling.
>
> Wayne Sallee wrote:
>
>> Most people install one fan blowing in, and one fan blowing out, but as
>> sds said there are several ways it can be done. You want to blow cool air
>> acros the tank. Don't worry about trying to cool the bubls, but cool the
>> tank. Air blowing across the water does the best job of cooling the tank.
>
>
> --
> Ric Seyler
> Online Racing: RicSeyler
> GPL Handicap 6.35
>
> http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler
> remove –SPAM- from email address
> --------------------------------------
> "Homer no function beer well without."
> - H.J. Simpson
>

[RicSeyler]

No problem Susan!
And don't use a cover, evaporation is your friend.

Susan wrote:

>Thanks again for all the helpful info!
>
>
>

--
Ric Seyler
Online Racing: RicSeyler
GPL Handicap 6.35

http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler
remove –SPAM- from email address
--------------------------------------
"Homer no function beer well without."
- H.J. Simpson

[Wayne Sallee]

Yep. I also like evaporation because it alows the addition
of lime water.

Wayne Sallee
Wayne's Pets



RicSeyler wrote on 12/30/2005 11:37 AM:
> No problem Susan!
> And don't use a cover, evaporation is your friend.
>
> Susan wrote:
>
>> Thanks again for all the helpful info!
>>
>>
>>
>

[Susan]

That was acutally something I was thinking of is if I use a canopy do I need
a glass cover? If not then will the retro light be ok without a cover?

Thanks again,
Susan :)
"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
...
> Yep. I also like evaporation because it alows the addition of lime water.
>
> Wayne Sallee
> Wayne's Pets
>
>
>
> RicSeyler wrote on 12/30/2005 11:37 AM:
>> No problem Susan!
>> And don't use a cover, evaporation is your friend.
>>
>> Susan wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks again for all the helpful info!
>>>
>>>
>>

[Wayne Sallee]

It would be best to have a glass sheild under the mh
light, but not on the tank.

Wayne Sallee
Wayne's Pets



Susan wrote on 12/30/2005 1:13 PM:
> That was acutally something I was thinking of is if I use a canopy do I need
> a glass cover? If not then will the retro light be ok without a cover?
>
> Thanks again,
> Susan :)
> "Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>Yep. I also like evaporation because it alows the addition of lime water.
>>
>>Wayne Sallee
>>Wayne's Pets

>>
>>
>>RicSeyler wrote on 12/30/2005 11:37 AM:
>>
>>>No problem Susan!
>>>And don't use a cover, evaporation is your friend.
>>>
>>>Susan wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Thanks again for all the helpful info!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>
>

[Samwyse]

Wayne Sallee wrote:
> Susan wrote on 12/30/2005 1:13 PM:
>
>> That was acutally something I was thinking of is if I use a canopy do
>> I need a glass cover? If not then will the retro light be ok without
>> a cover?

> It would be best to have a glass sheild under the mh light, but not on
> the tank.

OK, I've got an Odyssea light with two 65w Actinic bulbs, two 65w
12,000K bulbs, and four little blue bulbs that look like halogens. My
tank has two of those cheap two-pane folding covers, then a short piece
of one-by-two at each end supporting the big light. Keeping the light
over the tank requires positioning the wood pieces such that I can't
open the covers, so access to the tank requires moving a lot of heavy
stuff around.

I presume that there's a better way to support the light?

Google says that the little bulbs are moonlights. Right now, all three
switches are on 24x7, and a timer switches the whole thing on for 9
hours and off for 15 (to reduce brown algea growth). Google also tells
me that there are people who want to rewire the light and use multiple
timers. Makes sense, I guess, to have the moonlight running on the
opposite schedule as the other lamps, but should the actinics and
regular bulbs also be on different timers? I'd like to hear what other
people here think.

Thanks!

[Wayne Sallee]

Most people don't put sheilds under those lights.

If the moonlights are LED's then I would just leave then
on all the time, as they last almost for ever and use very
little electricity.

Most people have the actinics come on and hour earlyer,
and stay on an hour later than the other lights.

Wayne Sallee
Wayne's Pets



Samwyse wrote on 12/31/2005 1:22 AM:
> Wayne Sallee wrote:
>
>> Susan wrote on 12/30/2005 1:13 PM:
>>
>>> That was acutally something I was thinking of is if I use a canopy do
>>> I need a glass cover? If not then will the retro light be ok without
>>> a cover?
>
>
>> It would be best to have a glass sheild under the mh light, but not on
>> the tank.
>
>
> OK, I've got an Odyssea light with two 65w Actinic bulbs, two 65w
> 12,000K bulbs, and four little blue bulbs that look like halogens. My
> tank has two of those cheap two-pane folding covers, then a short piece
> of one-by-two at each end supporting the big light. Keeping the light
> over the tank requires positioning the wood pieces such that I can't
> open the covers, so access to the tank requires moving a lot of heavy
> stuff around.
>
> I presume that there's a better way to support the light?
>
> Google says that the little bulbs are moonlights. Right now, all three
> switches are on 24x7, and a timer switches the whole thing on for 9
> hours and off for 15 (to reduce brown algea growth). Google also tells
> me that there are people who want to rewire the light and use multiple
> timers. Makes sense, I guess, to have the moonlight running on the
> opposite schedule as the other lamps, but should the actinics and
> regular bulbs also be on different timers? I'd like to hear what other
> people here think.
>
> Thanks!

[RicSeyler]

If you use Mogul Socket Metal Halide bulbs (screw in type)
then NO. And I don't recommend it. Just clean the salt residue
off of them from time to time.

If you use the double ended snap in Metal Halide bulb, YES.
The double ended style isn't UV shielded and should have glass
between them and the water. But the glass is "generally" built into
the reflector assembly on those double ended styles.

Evaporation will also aid in cooling your water as well making room
for Kalk dripping.

Susan wrote:

>That was acutally something I was thinking of is if I use a canopy do I need
>a glass cover? If not then will the retro light be ok without a cover?
>
>
>
>
>
>

--
Ric Seyler
Online Racing: RicSeyler
GPL Handicap 6.35

http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler
remove –SPAM- from email address
--------------------------------------
"Homer no function beer well without."
- H.J. Simpson

[Wayne Sallee]

I would recomend sheilding those types of mh lights as well.

Wayne Sallee
Wayne's Pets



RicSeyler wrote on 12/31/2005 4:55 PM:
> If you use Mogul Socket Metal Halide bulbs (screw in type)
> then NO. And I don't recommend it. Just clean the salt residue
> off of them from time to time.
>
> If you use the double ended snap in Metal Halide bulb, YES.
> The double ended style isn't UV shielded and should have glass
> between them and the water. But the glass is "generally" built into
> the reflector assembly on those double ended styles.
>
> Evaporation will also aid in cooling your water as well making room
> for Kalk dripping.
>
> Susan wrote:
>
>> That was acutally something I was thinking of is if I use a canopy do
>> I need a glass cover? If not then will the retro light be ok without
>> a cover?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>

[Susan]

Thanks for all the helpful info :) If I would go with a VHO or compact
light retro set up do they need shielded as well?

Thanks again,
Susan :)
"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
...
>I would recomend sheilding those types of mh lights as well.
>
> Wayne Sallee
> Wayne's Pets
>
>
>
> RicSeyler wrote on 12/31/2005 4:55 PM:
>> If you use Mogul Socket Metal Halide bulbs (screw in type)
>> then NO. And I don't recommend it. Just clean the salt residue
>> off of them from time to time.
>>
>> If you use the double ended snap in Metal Halide bulb, YES.
>> The double ended style isn't UV shielded and should have glass
>> between them and the water. But the glass is "generally" built into
>> the reflector assembly on those double ended styles.
>>
>> Evaporation will also aid in cooling your water as well making room
>> for Kalk dripping.
>>
>> Susan wrote:
>>
>>> That was acutally something I was thinking of is if I use a canopy do I
>>> need a glass cover? If not then will the retro light be ok without a
>>> cover?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>

[Wayne Sallee]

Most people don't sheild them, but it's not a bad idea to
shield them on a salt water tank. Most complete hoods are
shielded. Salt spray is hard on the lighting and
reflectors if not shielded.

Wayne Sallee
Wayne's Pets



Susan wrote on 12/31/2005 9:51 PM:
> Thanks for all the helpful info :) If I would go with a VHO or compact
> light retro set up do they need shielded as well?
>
> Thanks again,
> Susan :)
> "Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>I would recomend sheilding those types of mh lights as well.
>>
>>Wayne Sallee
>>Wayne's Pets

>>
>>
>>RicSeyler wrote on 12/31/2005 4:55 PM:
>>
>>>If you use Mogul Socket Metal Halide bulbs (screw in type)
>>>then NO. And I don't recommend it. Just clean the salt residue
>>>off of them from time to time.
>>>
>>>If you use the double ended snap in Metal Halide bulb, YES.
>>>The double ended style isn't UV shielded and should have glass
>>>between them and the water. But the glass is "generally" built into
>>>the reflector assembly on those double ended styles.
>>>
>>>Evaporation will also aid in cooling your water as well making room
>>>for Kalk dripping.
>>>
>>>Susan wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>That was acutally something I was thinking of is if I use a canopy do I
>>>>need a glass cover? If not then will the retro light be ok without a
>>>>cover?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>
>

[RicSeyler]

I strongly recommend do not cover your tank! Unless you absolutely
have to because of jumping or escaping inhabitants that you can't live
without.

Reef keeping is a constant, never ending, cleaning job inside the tank
and all the equipment connected to it. And the lights, reflector is just
another of the many many things that will require cleaning through
the life of your reef tank.



Susan wrote:

>Thanks for all the helpful info :) If I would go with a VHO or compact
>light retro set up do they need shielded as well?
>
>
>

--
Ric Seyler
Online Racing: RicSeyler
GPL Handicap 6.35

http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler
remove –SPAM- from email address
--------------------------------------
"Homer no function beer well without."
- H.J. Simpson

[Susan]

Thanks again everyone :) What kind of special cleaning does the light need?

Thanks again :)
Susan
"RicSeyler" > wrote in message
.. .
>I strongly recommend do not cover your tank! Unless you absolutely
> have to because of jumping or escaping inhabitants that you can't live
> without.
>
> Reef keeping is a constant, never ending, cleaning job inside the tank
> and all the equipment connected to it. And the lights, reflector is just
> another of the many many things that will require cleaning through
> the life of your reef tank.
>
>
>
> Susan wrote:
>
>>Thanks for all the helpful info :) If I would go with a VHO or compact
>>light retro set up do they need shielded as well?
>>
>>
>
> --
> Ric Seyler
> Online Racing: RicSeyler
> GPL Handicap 6.35
>
> http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler
> remove –SPAM- from email address
> --------------------------------------
> "Homer no function beer well without."
> - H.J. Simpson
>

[Roy]

Just unplug them periodically, and use a damp cloth to wipe off any
dried salt deposits, wipe dry and reinstall bulbs.. Let me add 2
cents here on covers or no covers and lights....If you have the rubber
type endcaps your fine, but light fixtures run over a sal****er setup
without rubber (environmental ) end caps may get corroded and require
more frequent cleaning, as any salt creep etc can lead to stray
voltage and arcing of contacts.......If the lights can get salt creep
or spray that requires cleaning then the salt can definately get into
the contacts etc. Usually lower grade lights are not equpped with such
end caps. Just something to think about.

On Mon, 02 Jan 2006 03:53:33 GMT, "Susan" >
wrote:
>><>Thanks again everyone :) What kind of special cleaning does the light need?
>><>
>><>Thanks again :)
>><>Susan
>><>"RicSeyler" > wrote in message
.. .
>><>>I strongly recommend do not cover your tank! Unless you absolutely
>><>> have to because of jumping or escaping inhabitants that you can't live
>><>> without.
>><>>
>><>> Reef keeping is a constant, never ending, cleaning job inside the tank
>><>> and all the equipment connected to it. And the lights, reflector is just
>><>> another of the many many things that will require cleaning through
>><>> the life of your reef tank.
>><>>
>><>>
>><>>
>><>> Susan wrote:
>><>>
>><>>>Thanks for all the helpful info :) If I would go with a VHO or compact
>><>>>light retro set up do they need shielded as well?
>><>>>
>><>>>
>><>>
>><>> --
>><>> Ric Seyler
>><>> Online Racing: RicSeyler
>><>> GPL Handicap 6.35
>><>>
>><>> http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler
>><>> remove –SPAM- from email address
>><>> --------------------------------------
>><>> "Homer no function beer well without."
>><>> - H.J. Simpson
>><>>
>><>

--
\\\|///
( @ @ )
-----------oOOo(_)oOOo---------------


oooO
---------( )----Oooo----------------
\ ( ( )
\_) ) /
(_/
The original frugal ponder! Koi-ahoi mates....

[groo]

Any idea how much air flow is required? I have a new 75gal tank with 2
250W metal halide lights and 4 12" blue lights. The hood has a fan at
either end (one in, one out). The fans are 12VDC, temperature controlled
fans. At max they push 107 CFM. My problem is that they make lots of
noise...47dB according to the spec sheet. The installer put the
temperature sensors right next to the blue lights, and I'm wondering if I
can move them away (hence slowing the fans and reducing the noise)
without adverse impact. If the water temp stays OK, I'm presuming that
the only possible impact is to the lifetime of the lights, but I don't
know how significant that will be. Right now, with the fans running at
max, the outlet air barely feels warm, which makes me think that it is
overkill.



(Roy) wrote:


> Seems the majority of foloks agree its best to blow air in and not
> have any fan pulling air out, since the air can cause corrosion in the
> fans. If you have an equal sized or just slightly larger "vent" to
> allow the air pulled in, to escape from your fine. Most if not all of
> the current manufacturers of light assemblys only have fans pulling
> air in, and the same equal sized openings less fans for vents.......If
> you can blow air in along the length of the bulbs and out the opposite
> end. It heps cool the bulbs and covers a larger lengthwise portion of
> the tank. Look for 2 VDC fans, and look for decibel ratings......as
> yoiur looking for quietness as well. Typically the faster a fan runs
> and the more air it moves the ouder the noise they make. Just ball
> park figure how many cubic inches / feet of air are under your hood,
> from the top of the water to the bottom of the hood, times length and
> width....and match up a fan(s) to suit that cubic inch / feet of
> volume. More is better than less. If you go with 12 VDC, you can buy a
> voltage adjustable powersupply so you can also regulate the fans speed
> which does come in handy a ot of time.......We heat with a wood stove,
> so our heat is not all that uniform, so in winter we generally run the
> hood fans a bit higher in speed, but in summer when the house is air
> conditioned, we can reduce the fans speeds.......The adjustable
> powersupplys are typical plug in the wall transformers with a slide
> switch and can be found at Wal MArts and RAdio shack and lots of other
> places for under $20.00 Another good thing to have with the fans is
> a filter of some sort. I use a piece of 1/4" thick foam or some fine
> bridal type nylon mesh/netting as you would be surprised how much
> lint and hair etc they can pull into the tank if not caught in a
> filter. Just place foam or netting infront of fan or under the fans
> grill, and it works fine. Just hit it with a vac cleaner from time to
> time and it pulls out any accumulated lint etc without the need to
> remove it to clean it.

[adv_aqua]

The manufacters are covering thier butts for liability because the lamps
burn so hot - hence loud fan.

I have discovered a really neat trick because as a fabricator of custom
system I noisy systems wheter it be water or air......try retrofitting a 9V
power supply. Ive done this on custom canopys Ive built and the fan noise is
almost inaudible. Only downside is that the power supply may not have the
ooouumph to start the fan. Since the fans became too quiet to hear I just
let them run 24/7. A 9V power supply will run you about $5. Good luck!

Pomacanthus
www.advancedaquarium.com




"groo" > wrote in message
. 17.102...
>
> Any idea how much air flow is required? I have a new 75gal tank with 2
> 250W metal halide lights and 4 12" blue lights. The hood has a fan at
> either end (one in, one out). The fans are 12VDC, temperature controlled
> fans. At max they push 107 CFM. My problem is that they make lots of
> noise...47dB according to the spec sheet. The installer put the
> temperature sensors right next to the blue lights, and I'm wondering if I
> can move them away (hence slowing the fans and reducing the noise)
> without adverse impact. If the water temp stays OK, I'm presuming that
> the only possible impact is to the lifetime of the lights, but I don't
> know how significant that will be. Right now, with the fans running at
> max, the outlet air barely feels warm, which makes me think that it is
> overkill.
>
>
>
> (Roy) wrote:
>
>
>> Seems the majority of foloks agree its best to blow air in and not
>> have any fan pulling air out, since the air can cause corrosion in the
>> fans. If you have an equal sized or just slightly larger "vent" to
>> allow the air pulled in, to escape from your fine. Most if not all of
>> the current manufacturers of light assemblys only have fans pulling
>> air in, and the same equal sized openings less fans for vents.......If
>> you can blow air in along the length of the bulbs and out the opposite
>> end. It heps cool the bulbs and covers a larger lengthwise portion of
>> the tank. Look for 2 VDC fans, and look for decibel ratings......as
>> yoiur looking for quietness as well. Typically the faster a fan runs
>> and the more air it moves the ouder the noise they make. Just ball
>> park figure how many cubic inches / feet of air are under your hood,
>> from the top of the water to the bottom of the hood, times length and
>> width....and match up a fan(s) to suit that cubic inch / feet of
>> volume. More is better than less. If you go with 12 VDC, you can buy a
>> voltage adjustable powersupply so you can also regulate the fans speed
>> which does come in handy a ot of time.......We heat with a wood stove,
>> so our heat is not all that uniform, so in winter we generally run the
>> hood fans a bit higher in speed, but in summer when the house is air
>> conditioned, we can reduce the fans speeds.......The adjustable
>> powersupplys are typical plug in the wall transformers with a slide
>> switch and can be found at Wal MArts and RAdio shack and lots of other
>> places for under $20.00 Another good thing to have with the fans is
>> a filter of some sort. I use a piece of 1/4" thick foam or some fine
>> bridal type nylon mesh/netting as you would be surprised how much
>> lint and hair etc they can pull into the tank if not caught in a
>> filter. Just place foam or netting infront of fan or under the fans
>> grill, and it works fine. Just hit it with a vac cleaner from time to
>> time and it pulls out any accumulated lint etc without the need to
>> remove it to clean it.

[~Roy~]

Sounds like you have Ice Cap brand fans. Usually the faster the fans
are run the louder they are. Fans have two purposes but equates to one
in particular.......They cool the lights down, with moving air, so not
as much heat is radiated or transferred tothe tank, and also cause
water to evporate which cools the tanks water, so you may or maya not
feel any warm air output as that water is a giant heatsink. The 47dB
rate is quite loud. IIRC the noisiest fan I have is a mere 31 dB, and
I have others that are i the mid to low 20's. YOu will see the fans
with thinner cross sections of their thickness and having lots of
blades are usually the loudest. The thicker sectioned fans have a
different blade style (on mine anyhow) and are much quieter, and also
operate at a much lower speed even at full voltage, and move a heap of
air as well......The smaller faster fans sound like they are really
moving a lot of air, and they do, but they also create a lot more
noise. There is also a big difference in noise levels from ball
bearing and bushing type fans, Bushing type overall when new are
quieter than ball bearing, but once worn they can get a ot noiser. To
determine how much CFM of air flow you need, you need to calculate
the cubic inches under yur hood. Measure the inside of the hood from
thre water level to the bottom of the top of the hood,, and the length
and width H x L x W = cubic inches.....assuming yuur measuring in
inches. If your measurement comes out to say 1000 cubic inches for
example, and your 2 fans move 500 cubic inches of air a inute, the air
under your hood would theroetically be exchanged every minute. Its
also best to have fans pushing or pulling air into not out of the
hood. There is a link to a fan manufacturer that has the specifics on
how much and how often air should be exchanged or moved, and I will
post it just as soon as I get time to look for it among my thousands
of bookmarks........

On Fri, 17 Feb 2006 21:29:34 GMT, groo > wrote:
>><>
>><>Any idea how much air flow is required? I have a new 75gal tank with 2
>><>250W metal halide lights and 4 12" blue lights. The hood has a fan at
>><>either end (one in, one out). The fans are 12VDC, temperature controlled
>><>fans. At max they push 107 CFM. My problem is that they make lots of
>><>noise...47dB according to the spec sheet. The installer put the
>><>temperature sensors right next to the blue lights, and I'm wondering if I
>><>can move them away (hence slowing the fans and reducing the noise)
>><>without adverse impact. If the water temp stays OK, I'm presuming that
>><>the only possible impact is to the lifetime of the lights, but I don't
>><>know how significant that will be. Right now, with the fans running at
>><>max, the outlet air barely feels warm, which makes me think that it is
>><>overkill.
>><>
>><>
>><>
(Roy) wrote:
>><>
>><>
>><>> Seems the majority of foloks agree its best to blow air in and not
>><>> have any fan pulling air out, since the air can cause corrosion in the
>><>> fans. If you have an equal sized or just slightly larger "vent" to
>><>> allow the air pulled in, to escape from your fine. Most if not all of
>><>> the current manufacturers of light assemblys only have fans pulling
>><>> air in, and the same equal sized openings less fans for vents.......If
>><>> you can blow air in along the length of the bulbs and out the opposite
>><>> end. It heps cool the bulbs and covers a larger lengthwise portion of
>><>> the tank. Look for 2 VDC fans, and look for decibel ratings......as
>><>> yoiur looking for quietness as well. Typically the faster a fan runs
>><>> and the more air it moves the ouder the noise they make. Just ball
>><>> park figure how many cubic inches / feet of air are under your hood,
>><>> from the top of the water to the bottom of the hood, times length and
>><>> width....and match up a fan(s) to suit that cubic inch / feet of
>><>> volume. More is better than less. If you go with 12 VDC, you can buy a
>><>> voltage adjustable powersupply so you can also regulate the fans speed
>><>> which does come in handy a ot of time.......We heat with a wood stove,
>><>> so our heat is not all that uniform, so in winter we generally run the
>><>> hood fans a bit higher in speed, but in summer when the house is air
>><>> conditioned, we can reduce the fans speeds.......The adjustable
>><>> powersupplys are typical plug in the wall transformers with a slide
>><>> switch and can be found at Wal MArts and RAdio shack and lots of other
>><>> places for under $20.00 Another good thing to have with the fans is
>><>> a filter of some sort. I use a piece of 1/4" thick foam or some fine
>><>> bridal type nylon mesh/netting as you would be surprised how much
>><>> lint and hair etc they can pull into the tank if not caught in a
>><>> filter. Just place foam or netting infront of fan or under the fans
>><>> grill, and it works fine. Just hit it with a vac cleaner from time to
>><>> time and it pulls out any accumulated lint etc without the need to
>><>> remove it to clean it.

--
\\\|///
( @ @ )
-----------oOOo(_)oOOo---------------


oooO
---------( )----Oooo----------------
\ ( ( )
\_) ) /
(_/
The original frugal ponder ! Koi-ahoi mates....

[~Roy~]

ANother option, and in my opinion would be buying an adjustable power
supply. They have wall warts that have a slide switch to vary
voltages. YOu can get them that have 3, 4.5, 6, 7.5, 9, 12 volts
output all at the slide of a switch. Its all I use to vary the speeds
of my fans. In winter with a wood stove going and no real means to get
a stable interior temperature since the wood stove does not have a
thermostat, and is dependant on damper settings, I can run my fans up
on higher output voltage and get a lot more coolking effect, and in
spring and fall when its just right out around here I can reduce the
speeds way down, and in summer with AC on, I can virtually run em as
slow as they will go and its sufficient to keep lights cool. Its
basically the same as what your thermistor device on the fans that
automatically change speeds is doing, only this way its done
manually. You can find those wall warts at Wal MArt or Radio Shack for
little money, and its easy to cut it into existing fans........I do
find 9 volts is about what I use most of the time, but its still nice
to have the option for more volts or less volts at the slide of a
switch....
Regards


On Sat, 18 Feb 2006 10:00:20 -0600, "adv_aqua"
> wrote:
>><>The manufacters are covering thier butts for liability because the lamps
>><>burn so hot - hence loud fan.
>><>
>><>I have discovered a really neat trick because as a fabricator of custom
>><>system I noisy systems wheter it be water or air......try retrofitting a 9V
>><>power supply. Ive done this on custom canopys Ive built and the fan noise is
>><>almost inaudible. Only downside is that the power supply may not have the
>><>ooouumph to start the fan. Since the fans became too quiet to hear I just
>><>let them run 24/7. A 9V power supply will run you about $5. Good luck!
>><>
>><>Pomacanthus
>><>www.advancedaquarium.com
>><>
>><>
>><>
>><>
>><>"groo" > wrote in message
. 17.102...
>><>>
>><>> Any idea how much air flow is required? I have a new 75gal tank with 2
>><>> 250W metal halide lights and 4 12" blue lights. The hood has a fan at
>><>> either end (one in, one out). The fans are 12VDC, temperature controlled
>><>> fans. At max they push 107 CFM. My problem is that they make lots of
>><>> noise...47dB according to the spec sheet. The installer put the
>><>> temperature sensors right next to the blue lights, and I'm wondering if I
>><>> can move them away (hence slowing the fans and reducing the noise)
>><>> without adverse impact. If the water temp stays OK, I'm presuming that
>><>> the only possible impact is to the lifetime of the lights, but I don't
>><>> know how significant that will be. Right now, with the fans running at
>><>> max, the outlet air barely feels warm, which makes me think that it is
>><>> overkill.
>><>>
>><>>
>><>>
>><>> (Roy) wrote:
>><>>
>><>>
>><>>> Seems the majority of foloks agree its best to blow air in and not
>><>>> have any fan pulling air out, since the air can cause corrosion in the
>><>>> fans. If you have an equal sized or just slightly larger "vent" to
>><>>> allow the air pulled in, to escape from your fine. Most if not all of
>><>>> the current manufacturers of light assemblys only have fans pulling
>><>>> air in, and the same equal sized openings less fans for vents.......If
>><>>> you can blow air in along the length of the bulbs and out the opposite
>><>>> end. It heps cool the bulbs and covers a larger lengthwise portion of
>><>>> the tank. Look for 2 VDC fans, and look for decibel ratings......as
>><>>> yoiur looking for quietness as well. Typically the faster a fan runs
>><>>> and the more air it moves the ouder the noise they make. Just ball
>><>>> park figure how many cubic inches / feet of air are under your hood,
>><>>> from the top of the water to the bottom of the hood, times length and
>><>>> width....and match up a fan(s) to suit that cubic inch / feet of
>><>>> volume. More is better than less. If you go with 12 VDC, you can buy a
>><>>> voltage adjustable powersupply so you can also regulate the fans speed
>><>>> which does come in handy a ot of time.......We heat with a wood stove,
>><>>> so our heat is not all that uniform, so in winter we generally run the
>><>>> hood fans a bit higher in speed, but in summer when the house is air
>><>>> conditioned, we can reduce the fans speeds.......The adjustable
>><>>> powersupplys are typical plug in the wall transformers with a slide
>><>>> switch and can be found at Wal MArts and RAdio shack and lots of other
>><>>> places for under $20.00 Another good thing to have with the fans is
>><>>> a filter of some sort. I use a piece of 1/4" thick foam or some fine
>><>>> bridal type nylon mesh/netting as you would be surprised how much
>><>>> lint and hair etc they can pull into the tank if not caught in a
>><>>> filter. Just place foam or netting infront of fan or under the fans
>><>>> grill, and it works fine. Just hit it with a vac cleaner from time to
>><>>> time and it pulls out any accumulated lint etc without the need to
>><>>> remove it to clean it.
>><>

--
\\\|///
( @ @ )
-----------oOOo(_)oOOo---------------


oooO
---------( )----Oooo----------------
\ ( ( )
\_) ) /
(_/
The original frugal ponder ! Koi-ahoi mates....