New tank set up question, help greatly apretiated..

[Les Johnstone]

Hi all,



I'm just setting up my talk with a few more things to get. Here's my set up
so far



48 x 18 x 24 tank

4 x 55w T5 "folded over" tubes & reflectors

1 x 42w actinic blue T8

60lbs Crushed coral

20lbs live aragonite sand

20KGs ocean rock

1000lph external filter

2 x 100w heaters

25KG bucket of instant ocean salt



I've still to get a skimmer



Here is my first: The crushed coral was supposed to need "minimum rinse" but
a gave it lots of rinsing and I couldn't get the water clear. I guess the
fine mist was caused by the coral rubbing against itself so I put it in the
tank, the cloudy water too 4 days to clear - I didn't run th filter as I
didn't want it clogged up. After topping up the water I got another cloud
that took 1.5 days to clear, as I put in a Fluval 4 internal to collect the
dust.



My worry is that during water changed or agitation by the inhabitants I'll
get a dust clod that takes days to clear. Am I doing something wrong, or is
this normal?



The live sad I've got has a shelf life of 1 year but I don't want to put it
in the tank yet as there is no five to keep the bacteria alive, am I right
in thinking I should wait until I have some fish producing some waste before
I put in the live sand?



My rough plan is to solve this problem with the crushed coral, put the salt
in, set up the lights, get it up to temperature and then go get some fish,
maybe blue chromis or clown or a lion fish to start off, then get the corals
after a few months.



Any help would be greatly appreciated.



Les

[Chris Taylor]

Hi Les

You may wish to see 300-400 Watts for the heaters in your tank (say 2 x
200w?)

It is normal for the tank to take a couple of days to clear. Feel free to
mix your salt now, it won't make a difference. As you seem to be in the UK
you may wish to keep the SG at around 1.024, check with your LFS what
their's is first though and stick to similar figures, at least for the
duration that you're stocking your tank. You can always increase gradually
later if you see the need.

Keep the filter running (now and forever more...), give 50% of the
filtration media a clean in some of the tank water (extracted in a bucket)
after few weeks and then clean the remainder after another few weeks. Then
follow the manufacturer recommendation thereafter. Usually a partial clean
every four weeks.

I wouldn't put any fish in yet until you've monitored the Ammonia, and
Nitrates and seen them spike, and then drop to 0. Some people do but it
isn't very humane (IMNSHO) to introduce them and make them suffer a highly
poluted (ammonia/nitrate) environment. You can introduce fish after the
chemical peak and trough but should only introduce one or 2 fish at a time
with a week or two break in between new introductions.

You may want to throw a frozen shrimp or two into the tank now, the decay
and subsequent ammonia release will send the process on its way. Get
yourself a decent chemical test kit that includes Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite,
PH and possibly phosphate.

You say you're looking to get some corals? you might want to get a calcium
and alkalinity/harness test kit. You may also wish to consider investing in
Live Rock once your tank has cycled if affordable. I wouldn't recommend
putting live rock into the tank until it's cycled (neither would Skozzy?).

A skimmer you can put in after you've introduced fish.

You'll be OK putting the live sand straught in, although again you may wish
to insert only once the tank has cycled. This normally takes about 3 to 4
weeks.

In this 3 to 4 weeks it would be a really good idea to investigate which
Corals will survive the lighting capacity of your tank and which fish
species will not eat each other....

Good luck.


Chris

"Les Johnstone" > wrote in message
...
> Hi all,
>
>
>
> I'm just setting up my talk with a few more things to get. Here's my set
up
> so far
>
>
>
> 48 x 18 x 24 tank
>
> 4 x 55w T5 "folded over" tubes & reflectors
>
> 1 x 42w actinic blue T8
>
> 60lbs Crushed coral
>
> 20lbs live aragonite sand
>
> 20KGs ocean rock
>
> 1000lph external filter
>
> 2 x 100w heaters
>
> 25KG bucket of instant ocean salt
>
>
>
> I've still to get a skimmer
>
>
>
> Here is my first: The crushed coral was supposed to need "minimum rinse"
but
> a gave it lots of rinsing and I couldn't get the water clear. I guess the
> fine mist was caused by the coral rubbing against itself so I put it in
the
> tank, the cloudy water too 4 days to clear - I didn't run th filter as I
> didn't want it clogged up. After topping up the water I got another cloud
> that took 1.5 days to clear, as I put in a Fluval 4 internal to collect
the
> dust.
>
>
>
> My worry is that during water changed or agitation by the inhabitants I'll
> get a dust clod that takes days to clear. Am I doing something wrong, or
is
> this normal?
>
>
>
> The live sad I've got has a shelf life of 1 year but I don't want to put
it
> in the tank yet as there is no five to keep the bacteria alive, am I right
> in thinking I should wait until I have some fish producing some waste
before
> I put in the live sand?
>
>
>
> My rough plan is to solve this problem with the crushed coral, put the
salt
> in, set up the lights, get it up to temperature and then go get some fish,
> maybe blue chromis or clown or a lion fish to start off, then get the
corals
> after a few months.
>
>
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
>
>
> Les
>
>

[Chris Taylor]

Forgot to ask, the water you've put in your tank, was this from the tap?


"Les Johnstone" > wrote in message
...
> Hi all,
>
>
>
> I'm just setting up my talk with a few more things to get. Here's my set
up
> so far
>
>
>
> 48 x 18 x 24 tank
>
> 4 x 55w T5 "folded over" tubes & reflectors
>
> 1 x 42w actinic blue T8
>
> 60lbs Crushed coral
>
> 20lbs live aragonite sand
>
> 20KGs ocean rock
>
> 1000lph external filter
>
> 2 x 100w heaters
>
> 25KG bucket of instant ocean salt
>
>
>
> I've still to get a skimmer
>
>
>
> Here is my first: The crushed coral was supposed to need "minimum rinse"
but
> a gave it lots of rinsing and I couldn't get the water clear. I guess the
> fine mist was caused by the coral rubbing against itself so I put it in
the
> tank, the cloudy water too 4 days to clear - I didn't run th filter as I
> didn't want it clogged up. After topping up the water I got another cloud
> that took 1.5 days to clear, as I put in a Fluval 4 internal to collect
the
> dust.
>
>
>
> My worry is that during water changed or agitation by the inhabitants I'll
> get a dust clod that takes days to clear. Am I doing something wrong, or
is
> this normal?
>
>
>
> The live sad I've got has a shelf life of 1 year but I don't want to put
it
> in the tank yet as there is no five to keep the bacteria alive, am I right
> in thinking I should wait until I have some fish producing some waste
before
> I put in the live sand?
>
>
>
> My rough plan is to solve this problem with the crushed coral, put the
salt
> in, set up the lights, get it up to temperature and then go get some fish,
> maybe blue chromis or clown or a lion fish to start off, then get the
corals
> after a few months.
>
>
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
>
>
> Les
>
>

[Les Johnstone]

Thanks for the advise Chris, you have made me more confidant. I never
thought about matching the salinity to that of the LFS - great idea. I'll
check that out. Good idea also re the frozen shrimp, much better than
cycling it with hardy fish I don' really want!

I had decided to use tap water, mainly because its supposed to be good
(soft) here in Scotland and the LFS advised would be OK. I've got the
initial test its you recommend, and the Nitrate is 0 in the tap water.
Phosphate is about 1.5 - 2 ppm which if I remember right is OK. I'll get a
RO if I really have to buts its quite a big expense and hassle to fit if I
don't really need it. My plan it to get Live Rock a bit at a time as its
expensive here in the UK.

A couple of other questions - I've been told I'll need carbon in the filter
and a UV steriliser if I don't run a hospital tank, but I'm sure I've read
here the group advises against a UV?

Thanks again for your help.

Les
"Chris Taylor" > wrote in message
...
>
> Forgot to ask, the water you've put in your tank, was this from the tap?
>
>
> "Les Johnstone" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Hi all,
> >
> >
> >
> > I'm just setting up my talk with a few more things to get. Here's my set
> up
> > so far
> >
> >
> >
> > 48 x 18 x 24 tank
> >
> > 4 x 55w T5 "folded over" tubes & reflectors
> >
> > 1 x 42w actinic blue T8
> >
> > 60lbs Crushed coral
> >
> > 20lbs live aragonite sand
> >
> > 20KGs ocean rock
> >
> > 1000lph external filter
> >
> > 2 x 100w heaters
> >
> > 25KG bucket of instant ocean salt
> >
> >
> >
> > I've still to get a skimmer
> >
> >
> >
> > Here is my first: The crushed coral was supposed to need "minimum rinse"
> but
> > a gave it lots of rinsing and I couldn't get the water clear. I guess
the
> > fine mist was caused by the coral rubbing against itself so I put it in
> the
> > tank, the cloudy water too 4 days to clear - I didn't run th filter as I
> > didn't want it clogged up. After topping up the water I got another
cloud
> > that took 1.5 days to clear, as I put in a Fluval 4 internal to collect
> the
> > dust.
> >
> >
> >
> > My worry is that during water changed or agitation by the inhabitants
I'll
> > get a dust clod that takes days to clear. Am I doing something wrong, or
> is
> > this normal?
> >
> >
> >
> > The live sad I've got has a shelf life of 1 year but I don't want to put
> it
> > in the tank yet as there is no five to keep the bacteria alive, am I
right
> > in thinking I should wait until I have some fish producing some waste
> before
> > I put in the live sand?
> >
> >
> >
> > My rough plan is to solve this problem with the crushed coral, put the
> salt
> > in, set up the lights, get it up to temperature and then go get some
fish,
> > maybe blue chromis or clown or a lion fish to start off, then get the
> corals
> > after a few months.
> >
> >
> >
> > Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> >
> >
> >
> > Les
> >
> >
>
>

[Chris Taylor]

Hi Les

It's not for me to be inviting a Glaswegan kiss (Scottish for 'headbutt',
for the other side of the pond) but I'm not sure you're LFS gave you good
advice regarding the use of Tap Water. 1.5 to 2 PPM Phospate is pretty high
and will give you problems with Algae blooms. You might want to consider
placing phoszorb in line with your flitration medium. If you're not keen on
lashing out for an RO unit (you can get for around £100 with no installation
requirements) then you should get a de-ioniser such as API tap water filter
(http://www.aquariumpharm.com/aqfilter.html), about £50. This will remove
most of the nasty stuff for about 6 months before you need to buy another
cartridge.

You don't really need carbon in the filter, it does remove nitrates,
phospates etc and will need changing every 3 months or so before it leaches
the chemicals it has removed back into your tank (all in one go....). As
regards the UV filter, they are not required. I bought one for may last tank
as it ended up diseased. It worked very well and killed off the unwanted
parasites. The problem with them is that they also kill of any beneficial
free floating organisms. They have their place and can be used in a remedial
manner but to be honest, I haven't yet bought one for my present tank, and
have no immediate desire to use one. If desease strikes, I'll get one.

If you haven't yet read up, (don't want to teach you to suck eggs here?)
you'll begin to see your ammonia levels increase over the next week or two.
Nitrate will rise thereafter. Once both have dropped to 0, you tank will be
ready for its first (eagerly anticipated) inhabitant.

Good luck with the tank.


Chris


"Les Johnstone" > wrote in message
. ..
> Thanks for the advise Chris, you have made me more confidant. I never
> thought about matching the salinity to that of the LFS - great idea. I'll
> check that out. Good idea also re the frozen shrimp, much better than
> cycling it with hardy fish I don' really want!
>
> I had decided to use tap water, mainly because its supposed to be good
> (soft) here in Scotland and the LFS advised would be OK. I've got the
> initial test its you recommend, and the Nitrate is 0 in the tap water.
> Phosphate is about 1.5 - 2 ppm which if I remember right is OK. I'll get a
> RO if I really have to buts its quite a big expense and hassle to fit if I
> don't really need it. My plan it to get Live Rock a bit at a time as its
> expensive here in the UK.
>
> A couple of other questions - I've been told I'll need carbon in the
filter
> and a UV steriliser if I don't run a hospital tank, but I'm sure I've read
> here the group advises against a UV?
>
> Thanks again for your help.
>
> Les
> "Chris Taylor" > wrote in message
> ...
> >
> > Forgot to ask, the water you've put in your tank, was this from the tap?
> >
> >
> > "Les Johnstone" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I'm just setting up my talk with a few more things to get. Here's my
set
> > up
> > > so far
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > 48 x 18 x 24 tank
> > >
> > > 4 x 55w T5 "folded over" tubes & reflectors
> > >
> > > 1 x 42w actinic blue T8
> > >
> > > 60lbs Crushed coral
> > >
> > > 20lbs live aragonite sand
> > >
> > > 20KGs ocean rock
> > >
> > > 1000lph external filter
> > >
> > > 2 x 100w heaters
> > >
> > > 25KG bucket of instant ocean salt
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I've still to get a skimmer
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Here is my first: The crushed coral was supposed to need "minimum
rinse"
> > but
> > > a gave it lots of rinsing and I couldn't get the water clear. I guess
> the
> > > fine mist was caused by the coral rubbing against itself so I put it
in
> > the
> > > tank, the cloudy water too 4 days to clear - I didn't run th filter as
I
> > > didn't want it clogged up. After topping up the water I got another
> cloud
> > > that took 1.5 days to clear, as I put in a Fluval 4 internal to
collect
> > the
> > > dust.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > My worry is that during water changed or agitation by the inhabitants
> I'll
> > > get a dust clod that takes days to clear. Am I doing something wrong,
or
> > is
> > > this normal?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > The live sad I've got has a shelf life of 1 year but I don't want to
put
> > it
> > > in the tank yet as there is no five to keep the bacteria alive, am I
> right
> > > in thinking I should wait until I have some fish producing some waste
> > before
> > > I put in the live sand?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > My rough plan is to solve this problem with the crushed coral, put the
> > salt
> > > in, set up the lights, get it up to temperature and then go get some
> fish,
> > > maybe blue chromis or clown or a lion fish to start off, then get the
> > corals
> > > after a few months.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Les
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

[Ct Midnite]

So you really like this de-ioniser? I haven't been able to talk
myself into a RO unit and have been getting by well with just tap
water as far as I can tell.

On Mon, 15 Dec 2003 12:58:05 -0000, "Chris Taylor"
> wrote:

>If you're not keen on
>lashing out for an RO unit (you can get for around £100 with no installation
>requirements) then you should get a de-ioniser such as API tap water filter
>(http://www.aquariumpharm.com/aqfilter.html), about £50. This will remove
>most of the nasty stuff for about 6 months before you need to buy another
>cartridge.

Ct Midnite

http://www.geocities.com/ctmidnite53/Fish.html

[Chris Taylor]

Not so much a matter of liking the unit. It was all I could afford a few
years ago and suited its purpose for a modest sum at the time. I opted for
RO this time around but would have again used the API unit if funds were the
prime consideration. I'm still considering this unit in addition to RO but
will need to get off my butt and take some measurements of the RO water to
see if its justified.

Not sure where you are, and what your tap water conditions are like. In
heavily cultivated areas (like the UK) too many phosphates and other
impurities find their way into the water supply. The poster's note that
phospates are around 1.5 - 2 ppm would seem to confirm this, hence the
suggestion to use some kind of filtration, even a cheaper, lesser solution
until funds permit RO.

If I were in the middle of the Outback in Australia, the Karoo in South
Africa or Nevada in the US, tap water might just do the trick, but I'd need
to measure the water parameters first.

Where do you live, and what are the Nitrate and Phosphate measurements in
your water supply?

Regards


Chris


"Ct Midnite" <mreef2.10.muffin@spamgourmet.(nospam)com> wrote in message
...
> So you really like this de-ioniser? I haven't been able to talk
> myself into a RO unit and have been getting by well with just tap
> water as far as I can tell.
>
> On Mon, 15 Dec 2003 12:58:05 -0000, "Chris Taylor"
> > wrote:
>
> >If you're not keen on
> >lashing out for an RO unit (you can get for around £100 with no
installation
> >requirements) then you should get a de-ioniser such as API tap water
filter
> >(http://www.aquariumpharm.com/aqfilter.html), about £50. This will remove
> >most of the nasty stuff for about 6 months before you need to buy another
> >cartridge.
>
> Ct Midnite
>
> http://www.geocities.com/ctmidnite53/Fish.html

[Ct Midnite]

I live in central Iowa. We get our water from sand aquifers, not
rivers. I've always heard it was incredible water.

I called the local water department.
Phosphates: .3 ppm
Nitrates: 2.4 ml/liter
Don't know what that translates to.

What would be my first sign that I'm missing the boat by not having an
RO unit?


On Mon, 15 Dec 2003 20:58:50 -0000, "Chris Taylor"
> wrote:

>
>Not so much a matter of liking the unit. It was all I could afford a few
>years ago and suited its purpose for a modest sum at the time. I opted for
>RO this time around but would have again used the API unit if funds were the
>prime consideration. I'm still considering this unit in addition to RO but
>will need to get off my butt and take some measurements of the RO water to
>see if its justified.
>
>Not sure where you are, and what your tap water conditions are like. In
>heavily cultivated areas (like the UK) too many phosphates and other
>impurities find their way into the water supply. The poster's note that
>phospates are around 1.5 - 2 ppm would seem to confirm this, hence the
>suggestion to use some kind of filtration, even a cheaper, lesser solution
>until funds permit RO.
>
>If I were in the middle of the Outback in Australia, the Karoo in South
>Africa or Nevada in the US, tap water might just do the trick, but I'd need
>to measure the water parameters first.
>
>Where do you live, and what are the Nitrate and Phosphate measurements in
>your water supply?
>
>Regards
>
>
>Chris
>
>
>"Ct Midnite" <mreef2.10.muffin@spamgourmet.(nospam)com> wrote in message
...
>> So you really like this de-ioniser? I haven't been able to talk
>> myself into a RO unit and have been getting by well with just tap
>> water as far as I can tell.
>>
>> On Mon, 15 Dec 2003 12:58:05 -0000, "Chris Taylor"
>> > wrote:
>>
>> >If you're not keen on
>> >lashing out for an RO unit (you can get for around £100 with no
>installation
>> >requirements) then you should get a de-ioniser such as API tap water
>filter
>> >(http://www.aquariumpharm.com/aqfilter.html), about £50. This will remove
>> >most of the nasty stuff for about 6 months before you need to buy another
>> >cartridge.
>>
>> Ct Midnite
>>
>> http://www.geocities.com/ctmidnite53/Fish.html
>

Ct Midnite

http://www.geocities.com/ctmidnite53/Fish.html

[CapFusion]

"Ct Midnite" <mreef2.10.muffin@spamgourmet.(nospam)com> wrote in message
...
> I live in central Iowa. We get our water from sand aquifers, not
> rivers. I've always heard it was incredible water.
>
> I called the local water department.
> Phosphates: .3 ppm
> Nitrates: 2.4 ml/liter
> Don't know what that translates to.
>
> What would be my first sign that I'm missing the boat by not having an
> RO unit?

I am not certain if you missing anything but to gain / grow some algae.
Phosphate and Nitrate. Both should be non or close to non detectable.... If
it were a plant tank, then it prefect but need more of those for healthier
plant growth. I would still recomment / suggest a R.O. min.

Other than Phosphate and Nitrate, what other reading do you have on your
water?

When you indicate "incredible water", do you mean for human comsumption or
for reef type of tank?

CapFusion,...

[Chris Taylor]

Nice to see your water department using a First World system of measurement
;-)

Coral growth is retarded at >.25ppm and should rather be in the region of
0.03ppm. The salifert test kit advises that 0.1 is critical.

Your nitrates should probably read 2.4 micro-liter per liter? or 2.4
milligram per liter? this would be 2.4 ppm. at 2.4 ml/liter the reading
would be 2400ppm - off the scale of my test kit which max's out at 160ppm.

If the nitrates are really 2.4 ppm, this is pretty good. Your phospates are
too high.

While you are thinking of some filtration, you might want to invest in a
couple of test kits so you can measure these parameters yourself, you'll be
able to establish whether the filtration (RO or DI) is doing it's job, ie.
whether any cartridges need changing...

Nitrate and Phosphate test kits shouldn't cost you more than 20 or 30
dollars.

Regards

Chris


"Ct Midnite" <mreef2.10.muffin@spamgourmet.(nospam)com> wrote in message
...
> I live in central Iowa. We get our water from sand aquifers, not
> rivers. I've always heard it was incredible water.
>
> I called the local water department.
> Phosphates: .3 ppm
> Nitrates: 2.4 ml/liter
> Don't know what that translates to.
>
> What would be my first sign that I'm missing the boat by not having an
> RO unit?
>
>

[Marc Levenson]

If you decide you want an RO/DI unit, be sure to visit my site. I see too many
people paying too much for similar units elsewhere (not including the Ebay gang).

Marc


Ct Midnite wrote:

> What would be my first sign that I'm missing the boat by not having an
> RO unit?
>

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[Ct Midnite]

I do Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, and pH tests. And salinity. The
combination test kits you see at all the lfs's. All come back right
on the money. The pH test is a bugger to tell for sure. The colors
are so close to each other. I use araga Milk a couple of times a week
to make sure the pH stays in place. Right or wrong, that's what I've
been doing.

Now taking into account that money is not in a unlimited supply (this
is a money pit :) but I love it), what test kit brands do you
recommend with what ranges for the test? I notices the ranges vary
greatly. And does a de-ioniser do anything for the phosphate levels
or does it take an RO unit?

And considering what I'm doing now would you add any other tests
besides the Phosphate?

Actually the water department adds the .3 phosphates for filtering
reasons at the plant. Keeps things flowing through their filters.
They claimed there are no phosphates in the natural water.

Capfusion, I guess that's good water for people. :) Which is all most
people talk about.


On Tue, 16 Dec 2003 08:10:26 -0000, "Chris Taylor"
> wrote:

>
>Nice to see your water department using a First World system of measurement
>;-)
>
>Coral growth is retarded at >.25ppm and should rather be in the region of
>0.03ppm. The salifert test kit advises that 0.1 is critical.
>
>Your nitrates should probably read 2.4 micro-liter per liter? or 2.4
>milligram per liter? this would be 2.4 ppm. at 2.4 ml/liter the reading
>would be 2400ppm - off the scale of my test kit which max's out at 160ppm.
>
>If the nitrates are really 2.4 ppm, this is pretty good. Your phospates are
>too high.
>
>While you are thinking of some filtration, you might want to invest in a
>couple of test kits so you can measure these parameters yourself, you'll be
>able to establish whether the filtration (RO or DI) is doing it's job, ie.
>whether any cartridges need changing...
>
>Nitrate and Phosphate test kits shouldn't cost you more than 20 or 30
>dollars.
>
>Regards
>
>Chris
>
>
>"Ct Midnite" <mreef2.10.muffin@spamgourmet.(nospam)com> wrote in message
...
>> I live in central Iowa. We get our water from sand aquifers, not
>> rivers. I've always heard it was incredible water.
>>
>> I called the local water department.
>> Phosphates: .3 ppm
>> Nitrates: 2.4 ml/liter
>> Don't know what that translates to.
>>
>> What would be my first sign that I'm missing the boat by not having an
>> RO unit?
>>
>>
>

Ct Midnite

http://www.geocities.com/ctmidnite53/Fish.html

[Ct Midnite]

I've been there and looked at it before. Looked elsewhere and you do
have a heck of a price on it.

What if something happens to you? Is it a name brand with replacement
parts readily available?

Ct Midnite

On Tue, 16 Dec 2003 12:47:45 GMT, Marc Levenson >
wrote:

>If you decide you want an RO/DI unit, be sure to visit my site. I see too many
>people paying too much for similar units elsewhere (not including the Ebay gang).
>
>Marc
>
>
>Ct Midnite wrote:
>
>> What would be my first sign that I'm missing the boat by not having an
>> RO unit?
>>

Ct Midnite

http://www.geocities.com/ctmidnite53/Fish.html

[CapFusion]

"Ct Midnite" <mreef2.10.muffin@spamgourmet.(nospam)com> wrote in message
...
> I do Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, and pH tests. And salinity. The
> combination test kits you see at all the lfs's. All come back right
> on the money. The pH test is a bugger to tell for sure. The colors
> are so close to each other. I use araga Milk a couple of times a week
> to make sure the pH stays in place. Right or wrong, that's what I've
> been doing.

MarineDepot -
Salifert test kit.
http://www.marinedepot.com/a_tk_sf.asp?CartId=
Or
http://tinylink.com/?MgTChbnmJj
Alot of LFS carry those junk kind and for those good kind, you will need to
special order.


> Now taking into account that money is not in a unlimited supply (this
> is a money pit :) but I love it), what test kit brands do you
> recommend with what ranges for the test? I notices the ranges vary
> greatly. And does a de-ioniser do anything for the phosphate levels
> or does it take an RO unit?

You are not the only one. I am still trying to grow that "Money Tree". It
require something that I can not figure out yet.

I use Salifet. See link above.
Both RO or DI only will remove Phosphate and other. Recomment using both
RO/DI. But it really depend on your area. If you have hard water, then both
[RO/DI] will be good investment for "YOU" and your "Tank". Sof****er, you
may get-away with just either RO or DI only. Just remember, DI will get
deplete quicker and need to regenerate or change out the cartridge. Your aim
should be reading non-detectable or .2ppm or lower. Use TDS meter to
generalize what level of your water when use RO or DI or RD/DI. Anything
above non-detectable may cause problem.

I prefer to have 2ppm. Reason, I want some algae growth for my grazer and
janitoral crew to snack on.


> And considering what I'm doing now would you add any other tests
> besides the Phosphate?
>

I do not normally test for Phosphate except at earlier stage when my tank is
new or re-locate. My RO would take care of any phosphate. But you can test
for it, just in the safe-side.


> Actually the water department adds the .3 phosphates for filtering
> reasons at the plant. Keeps things flowing through their filters.
> They claimed there are no phosphates in the natural water.
>

No comment on this.


> Capfusion, I guess that's good water for people. :) Which is all most
> people talk about.

Normally, water from the water department is pretty good but as water travel
to your resident by mean of multiple pipe that maybe not too good.

Again, this is really depend on your location and how your water travel and
process before you actually received it. Take a general observation test.
Fill a full clear cup with water. Do you notices any debres or cloudiness?
If yes, you have some nutrients content. For people, it ok. We (people) our
body need nutrient like Zinc, Iron and other. But for Reef tank, you do not
want any nutrient except what you want to put in.

CapFusion,...

[CapFusion]

"Ct Midnite" <mreef2.10.muffin@spamgourmet.(nospam)com> wrote in message
...
> I've been there and looked at it before. Looked elsewhere and you do
> have a heck of a price on it.
>
> What if something happens to you? Is it a name brand with replacement
> parts readily available?
>
> Ct Midnite

Part replacement is pretty much standard. You can replace any thing from one
place and get other part from other place. it really the price and shipping
is differance. Normally a 10" in. cansiter housing use by reefer. Whatever
cartridge you put in is up to you. Heck, you can built you own RO or RO/DI
unit.
http://www.aquaticreefsystems.com/Reverse_Osmosis_4Stage.htm
If our Marc can not help or disappear (hope not), you can visit any vendor
that can help. AquaticReefSystem is one of many vendor that is especiallize
in "Water Treatment". You can visit ReefCentral.com in Sponsor Forum to as
for any technical relate question:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=6663dff85e898b7c9b750bcc718
c7614&forumid=91
or shorter link.
http://tinylink.com/?Ozgrz0emop
BTW, did I mention that you get 10% off when you mention you are a RC
member?
You can ask John if 100GPD RO/DI still vaild for 149.99 + shipping. Just
because you are a RC member. Heehe.
John will try to satisfy you if he can.

CapFusion,...

[Chris Taylor]

"Ct Midnite" <mreef2.10.muffin@spamgourmet.(nospam)com> wrote in message
...
>
> And considering what I'm doing now would you add any other tests
> besides the Phosphate?

If you are keeping Corals you'll be wanting to test Calcium and Alkalinity
in addition to Phospates. Most of my test kits are Salifert.

Regards


Chris

[Marc Levenson]

What? Is that some kind of threat?! <grin>

I'll be here, no matter what. But all the parts are replacement friendly, and are not
proprietary at all.

Whatever you like, it just wanted you to know it was there. Capfusion pointed you to
another source as well. I just hate it when I read someone bought new RO/DI unit and
'it only cost me $245 (or $324)...' There is no reason to spend that much money when
you can get pure water with this unit or one similarly designed.

Marc


Ct Midnite wrote:

> I've been there and looked at it before. Looked elsewhere and you do
> have a heck of a price on it.
>
> What if something happens to you? Is it a name brand with replacement
> parts readily available?
>
> Ct Midnite
>
> On Tue, 16 Dec 2003 12:47:45 GMT, Marc Levenson >
> wrote:
>
> >If you decide you want an RO/DI unit, be sure to visit my site. I see too many
> >people paying too much for similar units elsewhere (not including the Ebay gang).
> >
> >Marc
> >
> >
> >Ct Midnite wrote:
> >
> >> What would be my first sign that I'm missing the boat by not having an
> >> RO unit?
> >>
>
> Ct Midnite
>
> http://www.geocities.com/ctmidnite53/Fish.html

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[CapFusion]

"Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
...
> What? Is that some kind of threat?! <grin>
>
> I'll be here, no matter what. But all the parts are replacement friendly,
and are not
> proprietary at all.
>
> Whatever you like, it just wanted you to know it was there. Capfusion
pointed you to
> another source as well. I just hate it when I read someone bought new
RO/DI unit and
> 'it only cost me $245 (or $324)...' There is no reason to spend that much
money when
> you can get pure water with this unit or one similarly designed.

If you can not get a good deal from else where... Go to Marc. But if you do
find one better deal, give us some info!
Buying any 4 stage RO/DI 100 or 75 GPD for anything over 149.99 + shipping
is not a good deal. Marc have a good price.

You still can goto ARS for technical question relate to water on RC.

CapFusion,...

[Ct Midnite]

I order one from Marc tonight. I hope it makes as much of a
difference as I think it will.

Thanks guys.

On Tue, 16 Dec 2003 16:59:41 -0800, "CapFusion"
> wrote:

>
>"Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
...
>> What? Is that some kind of threat?! <grin>
>>
>> I'll be here, no matter what. But all the parts are replacement friendly,
>and are not
>> proprietary at all.
>>
>> Whatever you like, it just wanted you to know it was there. Capfusion
>pointed you to
>> another source as well. I just hate it when I read someone bought new
>RO/DI unit and
>> 'it only cost me $245 (or $324)...' There is no reason to spend that much
>money when
>> you can get pure water with this unit or one similarly designed.
>
>If you can not get a good deal from else where... Go to Marc. But if you do
>find one better deal, give us some info!
>Buying any 4 stage RO/DI 100 or 75 GPD for anything over 149.99 + shipping
>is not a good deal. Marc have a good price.
>
>You still can goto ARS for technical question relate to water on RC.
>
>CapFusion,...
>

Ct Midnite

http://www.geocities.com/ctmidnite53/Fish.html

[CapFusion]

"Ct Midnite" <mreef2.10.muffin@spamgourmet.(nospam)com> wrote in message
...
> I order one from Marc tonight. I hope it makes as much of a
> difference as I think it will.
>
> Thanks guys.

When you say "makes as much of difference" I assume you meant the reduction
of nutrient / metal like Phophate, Nitrate, Zinc ... etc for you tank.

You should be using RO/DI for your tank but RO only for yourself as human
comsumption.

CapFusion,...

[Ct Midnite]

What I meant was a difference in how the inhabitants act in the tank.

I've had unexplained deaths. A nice fox coral just slowly went to
pieces over about 3 months time.

Slow growth or reduced size. I've got some recordias (sp?) that just
never grow or end up shrinking. Most of the corals never really take
off and blossom like people talk about. Most stay looking nice but
that's about it.

Being new at this you just never know where to draw the line on
spending money on this hobby. The local lfs told me my tap water
would be fine when I started this, so buying a RO/DI unit has been
quite a decision to make. I've over all had pretty good luck with
most things in the tank so when a problem does arise you just don't
know what to blame it on. Water, light, temp, salinity, bugs,
disease?

I'm hoping this will be just another step in the right direction.

I don't mind the tap water for me at all. :) We really do have very
good water.

Next question is will I switch to Metal Halide from my PC's. That's
even more expensive.

On Wed, 17 Dec 2003 08:52:18 -0800, "CapFusion"
> wrote:

>
>"Ct Midnite" <mreef2.10.muffin@spamgourmet.(nospam)com> wrote in message
...
>> I order one from Marc tonight. I hope it makes as much of a
>> difference as I think it will.
>>
>> Thanks guys.
>
>When you say "makes as much of difference" I assume you meant the reduction
>of nutrient / metal like Phophate, Nitrate, Zinc ... etc for you tank.
>
>You should be using RO/DI for your tank but RO only for yourself as human
>comsumption.
>
>CapFusion,...
>

Ct Midnite

http://www.geocities.com/ctmidnite53/fish.html

[Les Johnstone]

Thanks for the advice all,

Can i ask another couple of questions? I'm not sure of when to put in my
live sand. I gave 60lbs of crushed coral in the tank and one bit of 2KG live
rock and 20kg ocean rock I intend to relace all ocean rock with live as
fundsallow. Should i put in the live sand right now, beforethe fish, or wait
till i have fish to give the live sand bacteria something to feed on.

Also what is the ideal temprature? I read that fish do better if you use
about 27C rather than setting it as ow as posible to save on the electricity
billl, but i also read that kepin the temp lower allows more 0xegen in the
water, this last bit is importand to me as i have a tall tank 48 x 18 x
24(high)

Thanks for any help
Les

[CapFusion]

If I understand you correctly. You do not have any fish yet, right?

If you just have LR / LS, put those into your tank. Let it cycle the whole
thing at the same time. Just your PS if you have one and do frequence water
change. Check your water parameter for any detectable ANN. As soon ANN is
non-detectable, you can start adding your fish. Buf if you decide to add
more LR and your tank have a resident, you may need to cure your new LR
separately, like from a spare tank or a bucket. You do not want to add fish
while your tank cycle or curing the LR. If you want to junpstart your
cycling, you can try using a gourmet shrimp from your deli mart or simple
use any type of ammone (including your urine [not kidding]) to jumpstart.

27C/80.6F? This temp. should be fine. I kept my at 82F all year round. Some
other people like to have around 26.11C/79F. It really depend on your
preference and who you listen to. But the main thing is not to have it go
up/down which will cause stress to your inhabitant (debatable). Best to have
your tank temp. stay at constant.

CapFusion,...


"Les Johnstone" > wrote in message
...
> Thanks for the advice all,
>
> Can i ask another couple of questions? I'm not sure of when to put in my
> live sand. I gave 60lbs of crushed coral in the tank and one bit of 2KG
live
> rock and 20kg ocean rock I intend to relace all ocean rock with live as
> fundsallow. Should i put in the live sand right now, beforethe fish, or
wait
> till i have fish to give the live sand bacteria something to feed on.
>
> Also what is the ideal temprature? I read that fish do better if you use
> about 27C rather than setting it as ow as posible to save on the
electricity
> billl, but i also read that kepin the temp lower allows more 0xegen in the
> water, this last bit is importand to me as i have a tall tank 48 x 18 x
> 24(high)
>
> Thanks for any help
> Les
>
>