growing algae

[Gill Passman]

Still planning the upgrade on my tank but one thing that is worrying me
right now, ironically, is the lack of algae that there will be in the
new tank and how this will impact my otos that won't eat anything other
algae.

So, I need to look at ways of introducing algae into the new tank - I
could take plants from the Malawi tank that always seem to get coated
but was wondering if anyone has any ideas as to how to get a more
sustainable source of algae until it starts to grow naturally in the new
tank - I'd hate my algae eaters to suffer because of the move.

TIA
Gill

[NetMax]

"Gill Passman" > wrote in message
.. .
> Still planning the upgrade on my tank but one thing that is worrying me
> right now, ironically, is the lack of algae that there will be in the
> new tank and how this will impact my otos that won't eat anything other
> algae.
>
> So, I need to look at ways of introducing algae into the new tank - I
> could take plants from the Malawi tank that always seem to get coated
> but was wondering if anyone has any ideas as to how to get a more
> sustainable source of algae until it starts to grow naturally in the
> new tank - I'd hate my algae eaters to suffer because of the move.
>
> TIA
> Gill

Pieces of slate and artificial plants were always my best algae
transports. They will probably be fine as Otos are the most sensitive to
the first tank change. After acclimation to the local water and having
their bellys filled, they are much more robust. A few pieces of slate or
glass left in the current tank (or the empty hex, under 24/7 lights)
should seed and get them through the move. jmo
--
www.NetMax.tk

[Mary Burns]

"Gill Passman" > wrote in message
.. .
> Still planning the upgrade on my tank but one thing that is worrying me
> right now, ironically, is the lack of algae that there will be in the new
> tank and how this will impact my otos that won't eat anything other algae.
>
> So, I need to look at ways of introducing algae into the new tank - I
> could take plants from the Malawi tank that always seem to get coated but
> was wondering if anyone has any ideas as to how to get a more sustainable
> source of algae until it starts to grow naturally in the new tank - I'd
> hate my algae eaters to suffer because of the move.
>
> TIA
> Gill


Most new tanks have a brown algae (diatoms) phase for a week sometimes which
the ottos will love. Moving plastic/silk plants or ornaments will work as
long as tanks have no problems, reducing risk of spreading anything to other
tanks. If your new tank is going in conservatory, you may have more algae
anyway because of the extra daylight. My 65g is in front of south east
facing big window, even keeping blinds shut all day doesn't stop an increase
in algae in summer, which goes in October and comes again in April/May, even
if I reduce tank lights to 6 hours as well. I find smaller plants in a big
tank always get a bit more algae as the bigger plants hog all the light, so
that may be another way to get algae. I don't move my live plants, because
most are probably just dying very very slowly as the clowns uproot them, and
the few that really do grow are left alone!!! Mary

[Gill Passman]

Mary Burns wrote:
> "Gill Passman" > wrote in message
> .. .
>
>>Still planning the upgrade on my tank but one thing that is worrying me
>>right now, ironically, is the lack of algae that there will be in the new
>>tank and how this will impact my otos that won't eat anything other algae.
>>
>>So, I need to look at ways of introducing algae into the new tank - I
>>could take plants from the Malawi tank that always seem to get coated but
>>was wondering if anyone has any ideas as to how to get a more sustainable
>>source of algae until it starts to grow naturally in the new tank - I'd
>>hate my algae eaters to suffer because of the move.
>>
>>TIA
>>Gill
>
>
>
> Most new tanks have a brown algae (diatoms) phase for a week sometimes which
> the ottos will love. Moving plastic/silk plants or ornaments will work as
> long as tanks have no problems, reducing risk of spreading anything to other
> tanks. If your new tank is going in conservatory, you may have more algae
> anyway because of the extra daylight. My 65g is in front of south east
> facing big window, even keeping blinds shut all day doesn't stop an increase
> in algae in summer, which goes in October and comes again in April/May, even
> if I reduce tank lights to 6 hours as well. I find smaller plants in a big
> tank always get a bit more algae as the bigger plants hog all the light, so
> that may be another way to get algae. I don't move my live plants, because
> most are probably just dying very very slowly as the clowns uproot them, and
> the few that really do grow are left alone!!! Mary
>
>
It is going in the Conservatory and experience has taught me that the
algae does much the same as you describe in your tank (I need to reduce
the lighting in the summer)...I also have the blinds closed almost all
year round. It's really the short term lack of algae that I was
concerned about....

The plant idea might work or some rocks. The options would be to either
add this into the Malawi tank - which hasn't add any fish added to it
since I first set it up early this year (apart from the self-made
additions) or to do as NetMax suggests and set up the Hex tank as an
algae factory....(might get tempted to put in fish though if I do that)...

Anyway the tank has been ordered today :-) It will take 3-4 weeks to
arrive....have gone for 72" long, 18" high and 24" deep....

Thanks for your ideas

Gill

[Daniel Morrow]

Bottom posted.

--
You can find my public key at https://keyserver1.pgp.com
"Gill Passman" > wrote in message
.. .
> Still planning the upgrade on my tank but one thing that is worrying me
> right now, ironically, is the lack of algae that there will be in the
> new tank and how this will impact my otos that won't eat anything other
> algae.
>
> So, I need to look at ways of introducing algae into the new tank - I
> could take plants from the Malawi tank that always seem to get coated
> but was wondering if anyone has any ideas as to how to get a more
> sustainable source of algae until it starts to grow naturally in the new
> tank - I'd hate my algae eaters to suffer because of the move.
>
> TIA
> Gill

With me artificially growing algae is like superman - where is the algae
when you need it?! I have put glasses of water with variations on contents
(i.e. nothing, flake food, very aged water, dechlorinated water, various
mixes of those) and always put the containers on the south window sill and
have never grown algae, at least not yet but I have pretty much given up on
it. I would like to not because I have otos (I don't have otos), but because
I would like to make green water and maybe some more solid algae for
breeding/raising daphnia. If I could do that things would be wonderful as
breeding the more fragile fish would be possible for me. But I have to say I
am satisfied enough with my current setups I have no drive to keep trying to
grow algae. I have tried following the directions of how to grow your own
algae according to an article in TFH magazine and still haven't had any
success. Good luck and later!

[Dick]

On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 14:13:57 +0000, Gill Passman
> wrote:

>Still planning the upgrade on my tank but one thing that is worrying me
>right now, ironically, is the lack of algae that there will be in the
>new tank and how this will impact my otos that won't eat anything other
>algae.
>
>So, I need to look at ways of introducing algae into the new tank - I
>could take plants from the Malawi tank that always seem to get coated
>but was wondering if anyone has any ideas as to how to get a more
>sustainable source of algae until it starts to grow naturally in the new
>tank - I'd hate my algae eaters to suffer because of the move.
>
>TIA
>Gill


Hi Gill,

Why can't you use the algae tabs until the algae settles in?
Won't the Ottos go to the bottom?

dick

[Gill Passman]

Dick wrote:
> On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 14:13:57 +0000, Gill Passman
> > wrote:
>
>
>>Still planning the upgrade on my tank but one thing that is worrying me
>>right now, ironically, is the lack of algae that there will be in the
>>new tank and how this will impact my otos that won't eat anything other
>>algae.
>>
>>So, I need to look at ways of introducing algae into the new tank - I
>>could take plants from the Malawi tank that always seem to get coated
>>but was wondering if anyone has any ideas as to how to get a more
>>sustainable source of algae until it starts to grow naturally in the new
>>tank - I'd hate my algae eaters to suffer because of the move.
>>
>>TIA
>>Gill
>
>
>
> Hi Gill,
>
> Why can't you use the algae tabs until the algae settles in?
> Won't the Ottos go to the bottom?
>
> dick

This is the problem - they just won't touch anything apart from what
grows naturally. I've never seen them feed on anything that goes in the
tank including algae wafters that I sometimes give the Plec.

Gill

[Bill Stock]

"Gill Passman" > wrote in message
.. .
> Dick wrote:
>> On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 14:13:57 +0000, Gill Passman
>> > wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Still planning the upgrade on my tank but one thing that is worrying me
>>>right now, ironically, is the lack of algae that there will be in the new
>>>tank and how this will impact my otos that won't eat anything other
>>>algae.
>>>
>>>So, I need to look at ways of introducing algae into the new tank - I
>>>could take plants from the Malawi tank that always seem to get coated but
>>>was wondering if anyone has any ideas as to how to get a more sustainable
>>>source of algae until it starts to grow naturally in the new tank - I'd
>>>hate my algae eaters to suffer because of the move.
>>>
>>>TIA
>>>Gill
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi Gill,
>>
>> Why can't you use the algae tabs until the algae settles in?
>> Won't the Ottos go to the bottom?
>>
>> dick
>
> This is the problem - they just won't touch anything apart from what grows
> naturally. I've never seen them feed on anything that goes in the tank
> including algae wafters that I sometimes give the Plec.
>
> Gill

My Otos wouldn't touch the wafers either. Until they saw the SAEs snacking
on them, then they started tussling over the wafers.

[Dick]

On Sat, 31 Dec 2005 12:32:06 -0500, "Bill Stock" >
wrote:

>
>"Gill Passman" > wrote in message
.. .
>> Dick wrote:
>>> On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 14:13:57 +0000, Gill Passman
>>> > wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Still planning the upgrade on my tank but one thing that is worrying me
>>>>right now, ironically, is the lack of algae that there will be in the new
>>>>tank and how this will impact my otos that won't eat anything other
>>>>algae.
>>>>
>>>>So, I need to look at ways of introducing algae into the new tank - I
>>>>could take plants from the Malawi tank that always seem to get coated but
>>>>was wondering if anyone has any ideas as to how to get a more sustainable
>>>>source of algae until it starts to grow naturally in the new tank - I'd
>>>>hate my algae eaters to suffer because of the move.
>>>>
>>>>TIA
>>>>Gill
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi Gill,
>>>
>>> Why can't you use the algae tabs until the algae settles in?
>>> Won't the Ottos go to the bottom?
>>>
>>> dick
>>
>> This is the problem - they just won't touch anything apart from what grows
>> naturally. I've never seen them feed on anything that goes in the tank
>> including algae wafters that I sometimes give the Plec.
>>
>> Gill
>
>My Otos wouldn't touch the wafers either. Until they saw the SAEs snacking
>on them, then they started tussling over the wafers.
>
>
Now that is really too human. "Keeping up with the Jones!"

If it wasn't for my "cloudy water" problem when dropping algae wafers,
I would drop them more often. The resulting "soccer game" is fun to
watch. They get so frustrated when they manage to shove a wafer into
the low growing plants. The fish react to algae wafers like cats to
catnip.

dick

[Gill Passman]

Dick wrote:
> On Sat, 31 Dec 2005 12:32:06 -0500, "Bill Stock" >
> wrote:
>
>
>>"Gill Passman" > wrote in message
.. .
>>
>>>Dick wrote:
>>>
>>>>On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 14:13:57 +0000, Gill Passman
> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Still planning the upgrade on my tank but one thing that is worrying me
>>>>>right now, ironically, is the lack of algae that there will be in the new
>>>>>tank and how this will impact my otos that won't eat anything other
>>>>>algae.
>>>>>
>>>>>So, I need to look at ways of introducing algae into the new tank - I
>>>>>could take plants from the Malawi tank that always seem to get coated but
>>>>>was wondering if anyone has any ideas as to how to get a more sustainable
>>>>>source of algae until it starts to grow naturally in the new tank - I'd
>>>>>hate my algae eaters to suffer because of the move.
>>>>>
>>>>>TIA
>>>>>Gill
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Hi Gill,
>>>>
>>>>Why can't you use the algae tabs until the algae settles in?
>>>>Won't the Ottos go to the bottom?
>>>>
>>>>dick
>>>
>>>This is the problem - they just won't touch anything apart from what grows
>>>naturally. I've never seen them feed on anything that goes in the tank
>>>including algae wafters that I sometimes give the Plec.
>>>
>>>Gill
>>
>>My Otos wouldn't touch the wafers either. Until they saw the SAEs snacking
>>on them, then they started tussling over the wafers.
>>
>>
>
> Now that is really too human. "Keeping up with the Jones!"
>
> If it wasn't for my "cloudy water" problem when dropping algae wafers,
> I would drop them more often. The resulting "soccer game" is fun to
> watch. They get so frustrated when they manage to shove a wafer into
> the low growing plants. The fish react to algae wafers like cats to
> catnip.
>
> dick

I'll try some again - it's been a while as I couldn't see the point if
they didn't eat them...it would be a better solution than trying to grow
algae

Gill

[Elaine T]

Gill Passman wrote:
> Mary Burns wrote:
>
>> "Gill Passman" > wrote in message
>> .. .
>>
>>> Still planning the upgrade on my tank but one thing that is worrying
>>> me right now, ironically, is the lack of algae that there will be in
>>> the new tank and how this will impact my otos that won't eat anything
>>> other algae.
>>>
>>> So, I need to look at ways of introducing algae into the new tank - I
>>> could take plants from the Malawi tank that always seem to get coated
>>> but was wondering if anyone has any ideas as to how to get a more
>>> sustainable source of algae until it starts to grow naturally in the
>>> new tank - I'd hate my algae eaters to suffer because of the move.
>>>
>>> TIA
>>> Gill
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Most new tanks have a brown algae (diatoms) phase for a week sometimes
>> which the ottos will love. Moving plastic/silk plants or ornaments
>> will work as long as tanks have no problems, reducing risk of
>> spreading anything to other tanks. If your new tank is going in
>> conservatory, you may have more algae anyway because of the extra
>> daylight. My 65g is in front of south east facing big window, even
>> keeping blinds shut all day doesn't stop an increase in algae in
>> summer, which goes in October and comes again in April/May, even if I
>> reduce tank lights to 6 hours as well. I find smaller plants in a big
>> tank always get a bit more algae as the bigger plants hog all the
>> light, so that may be another way to get algae. I don't move my live
>> plants, because most are probably just dying very very slowly as the
>> clowns uproot them, and the few that really do grow are left alone!!!
>> Mary
>>
> It is going in the Conservatory and experience has taught me that the
> algae does much the same as you describe in your tank (I need to reduce
> the lighting in the summer)...I also have the blinds closed almost all
> year round. It's really the short term lack of algae that I was
> concerned about....
>
> The plant idea might work or some rocks. The options would be to either
> add this into the Malawi tank - which hasn't add any fish added to it
> since I first set it up early this year (apart from the self-made
> additions) or to do as NetMax suggests and set up the Hex tank as an
> algae factory....(might get tempted to put in fish though if I do that)...
>
> Anyway the tank has been ordered today :-) It will take 3-4 weeks to
> arrive....have gone for 72" long, 18" high and 24" deep....


You ordered it! Yay! Sounds like a great size. I'm glad you went with
the 24" deep. Deeper tanks are so much easier to aquascape because you
can have a real midground. I can't wait to hear what you end up putting
in it and maybe seeing pics.

--
Elaine T __
http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com

[Gill Passman]

Elaine T wrote:
> Gill Passman wrote:
>
>> Mary Burns wrote:
>>
>>> "Gill Passman" > wrote in message
>>> .. .
>>>
>>>> Still planning the upgrade on my tank but one thing that is worrying
>>>> me right now, ironically, is the lack of algae that there will be in
>>>> the new tank and how this will impact my otos that won't eat
>>>> anything other algae.
>>>>
>>>> So, I need to look at ways of introducing algae into the new tank -
>>>> I could take plants from the Malawi tank that always seem to get
>>>> coated but was wondering if anyone has any ideas as to how to get a
>>>> more sustainable source of algae until it starts to grow naturally
>>>> in the new tank - I'd hate my algae eaters to suffer because of the
>>>> move.
>>>>
>>>> TIA
>>>> Gill
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Most new tanks have a brown algae (diatoms) phase for a week
>>> sometimes which the ottos will love. Moving plastic/silk plants or
>>> ornaments will work as long as tanks have no problems, reducing risk
>>> of spreading anything to other tanks. If your new tank is going in
>>> conservatory, you may have more algae anyway because of the extra
>>> daylight. My 65g is in front of south east facing big window, even
>>> keeping blinds shut all day doesn't stop an increase in algae in
>>> summer, which goes in October and comes again in April/May, even if I
>>> reduce tank lights to 6 hours as well. I find smaller plants in a big
>>> tank always get a bit more algae as the bigger plants hog all the
>>> light, so that may be another way to get algae. I don't move my live
>>> plants, because most are probably just dying very very slowly as the
>>> clowns uproot them, and the few that really do grow are left alone!!!
>>> Mary
>>>
>> It is going in the Conservatory and experience has taught me that the
>> algae does much the same as you describe in your tank (I need to
>> reduce the lighting in the summer)...I also have the blinds closed
>> almost all year round. It's really the short term lack of algae that I
>> was concerned about....
>>
>> The plant idea might work or some rocks. The options would be to
>> either add this into the Malawi tank - which hasn't add any fish added
>> to it since I first set it up early this year (apart from the
>> self-made additions) or to do as NetMax suggests and set up the Hex
>> tank as an algae factory....(might get tempted to put in fish though
>> if I do that)...
>>
>> Anyway the tank has been ordered today :-) It will take 3-4 weeks to
>> arrive....have gone for 72" long, 18" high and 24" deep....
>
>
>
> You ordered it! Yay! Sounds like a great size. I'm glad you went with
> the 24" deep. Deeper tanks are so much easier to aquascape because you
> can have a real midground. I can't wait to hear what you end up putting
> in it and maybe seeing pics.
>

I will probably look at setting up a web-site for fishy pics (might also
give my family access for pics of the kids - lol)....

I'm happy with the size and just can't wait for it to arrive. We looked
at doors for the cabinet today and have pretty much chosen. The tank
itself is going to be sunk into the cabinet rather than sitting on top -
I believe there are plans to put LED lights into the side to light the
bottom of the tank as well as the stuff in the hood - this part has been
hi-jacked but as long as I get enough lighting for the plants I don't
really mind. Hubby was also spotted measuring up the Fluval 5FX to make
sure he could fit it in - who am I to complain???? - lol

I'll try the otos on some wafers but I'm not convinced. I think that the
answer will be to try and grow as much algae as I can between now and
the move....Of course the stuff currently in the tank will move with the
fish so it might not be quite such an issue. Boris the betta's bit of
driftwood has a nice algae lawn on it as well - I'm sure he won't miss
it too much if I get him another log (he loves to snooze on top of it).

There are so many thoughts and considerations running through my head at
the moment - I want to make sure that the move goes as smoothly as
poss....currently wondering about the water as the new tank is over
double the capacity of the old one and I don't want to send anyone into
shock - will post separately on that once I get my head round what I
think I should do....

Gill

[NetMax]

"Gill Passman" wrote ...
> Elaine T wrote:
>> Gill Passman wrote:
>>> Mary Burns wrote:
>>>> "Gill Passman" wrote ...
<snip>

.....currently wondering about the water as the new tank is over
> double the capacity of the old one and I don't want to send anyone into
> shock - will post separately on that once I get my head round what I
> think I should do....
>
> Gill

As the objective is to make the new water as similar to the established
aquariums, as possible, my procedure is to begin significantly larger and
more frequent water changes on the tanks housing the fish which will be
moved. Then the new tank is filled and left to air for a couple of days
(allowing filters and heaters to settle in as well). I drain about 1/3
of the new tank off the bottom and skimming the surface (for foreign
particles, fines etc which settled or floated). I then fill the
difference using water from the source tank(s). The lower water level
also makes it easier to catch the fish ;~).

What is your cycling strategy? I'd connect the new filter to an existing
tank (ie: the mbuna tank processes lots of waste, or the tank whose fish
are moving with the filter), and let it run for several weeks.

Congrats on the new tank!
--
www.NetMax.tk

[Koi-lo]

"Gill Passman" > wrote in message
.. .
> There are so many thoughts and considerations running through my head at
> the moment - I want to make sure that the move goes as smoothly as
> poss....currently wondering about the water as the new tank is over double
> the capacity of the old one and I don't want to send anyone into shock -
> will post separately on that once I get my head round what I think I
> should do....
>
> Gill
=============================
NetMax just posted excellent advice on how to make the switch as safe and
easy for both you and your fish as possible. I would certainly set that new
filter up on an established tank *NOW* and let it start loading up with the
needed bacteria..... I hope you take and share some pics of this tank as
soon as possible. :-)
--

Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995...
Aquariums since 1952
My Pond & Aquarium Pages:
NEW PAGE: Aquariums:
http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy/Aquarium-Page4.html
http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy
~~~ }<((((o> ~~~ }<{{{{o> ~~~ }<(((((o>

[Gill Passman]

Koi-lo wrote:
>
> "Gill Passman" > wrote in message
> .. .
>
>> There are so many thoughts and considerations running through my head
>> at the moment - I want to make sure that the move goes as smoothly as
>> poss....currently wondering about the water as the new tank is over
>> double the capacity of the old one and I don't want to send anyone
>> into shock - will post separately on that once I get my head round
>> what I think I should do....
>>
>> Gill
>
> =============================
> NetMax just posted excellent advice on how to make the switch as safe
> and easy for both you and your fish as possible. I would certainly set
> that new filter up on an established tank *NOW* and let it start loading
> up with the needed bacteria..... I hope you take and share some pics of
> this tank as soon as possible. :-)


I have a Fluval 404 and a 4 Plus up and running in the Community Tank
and a Fluval 304 and a 4 Plus in the Malawi Tank. The plan is to switch
the filter medium from the 404 into the new filter (if I get it which I
think will be the case), and take the 4 Plus untouched over to the new
tank for the meanwhile along with the fish of course when the switch
happens. There are no plans, obviously, to increase the fish numbers
until the new tank settles (although there are some sitting in QT at the
moment).

The 404 will then most likely get switched onto the Malawi Tank - as the
304 and 404 are pretty much compatible and use the same pipes/filter
medium this shouldn't be too much of an issue and will add to the
filtration on the Malawi tank (where the fishload is continually
increasing - still at safe levels in terms of ammonia/nitrite so I'm not
moving anyone yet).

What I need to find out is whether the 5FX is compatible in terms of
pipework and medium with the 404 - I think that I heard that the
pipework is different. So as I'm going to be taking the medium out of
existing filters the only point I can see in having it running prior to
the switch is to test reliability. Replumbing the Community Tank to do
this would add to the work as the tank would need to be moved to
accomplish this. Of course, if the pipework is the same then it would be
easy to set it running prior to the move.

The difference here is that I'm actually replacing the tank not setting
up a new one so filters/filter medium go with the fish on the move along
with most of the water. When setting up a new tank I hang filters on
established tanks first (currently have a little Fluval 1 Plus hanging
in my 15 gall to keep the bacteria good before resetting up my Hex) or
pinch filter medium from establsihed filters.

[Gill Passman]

NetMax wrote:
> "Gill Passman" wrote ...
>
>>Elaine T wrote:
>>
>>>Gill Passman wrote:
>>>
>>>>Mary Burns wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>"Gill Passman" wrote ...
>
> <snip>
>
> ....currently wondering about the water as the new tank is over
>
>>double the capacity of the old one and I don't want to send anyone into
>>shock - will post separately on that once I get my head round what I
>>think I should do....
>>
>>Gill
>
>
> As the objective is to make the new water as similar to the established
> aquariums, as possible, my procedure is to begin significantly larger and
> more frequent water changes on the tanks housing the fish which will be
> moved. Then the new tank is filled and left to air for a couple of days
> (allowing filters and heaters to settle in as well). I drain about 1/3
> of the new tank off the bottom and skimming the surface (for foreign
> particles, fines etc which settled or floated). I then fill the
> difference using water from the source tank(s). The lower water level
> also makes it easier to catch the fish ;~).
>
> What is your cycling strategy? I'd connect the new filter to an existing
> tank (ie: the mbuna tank processes lots of waste, or the tank whose fish
> are moving with the filter), and let it run for several weeks.
>
> Congrats on the new tank!

The cycling strategy is to take all the medium over with the fish to the
new tank - so that's everything out of the 404 and to take the 4 Plus
over intact and hang it in the tank in addition to the 5FX. The Mbuna
tank will then inherit the 404 either instead of or in addition to the
304 currently in use (this tank also has a 4 Plus internal in addition
to the external). This still leaves me with a spare 304 (lives in the
garage) for any disasters. Just need to check the compatibility of the
pipework between the 304/404 and the 5FX - one of the nice things with
the 304/404 is that they are completely interchangeable and spares are
the same. It would be good though to have the new pump working for a
while to test out reliability.

Thanks for the advice on the water changes - that makes a lot of sense.
My thought had been to use the water from changes over a week or so to
fill the new tank - I'm reluctant to use water from any other tank in
case of cross infection. The initial plan is just to take the fish from
the existing tank until the tank settles - I might add the 3 plus Platys
currently in the kitchen but only if the fry have grown out a bit....

Gill

[NetMax]

"Gill Passman" > wrote in message
.. .
> NetMax wrote:
>> "Gill Passman" wrote ...
>>
>>>Elaine T wrote:
>>>
>>>>Gill Passman wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>Mary Burns wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>"Gill Passman" wrote ...
>>
>> <snip>
>>
>> ....currently wondering about the water as the new tank is over
>>
>>>double the capacity of the old one and I don't want to send anyone
>>>into shock - will post separately on that once I get my head round
>>>what I think I should do....
>>>
>>>Gill
>>
>>
>> As the objective is to make the new water as similar to the
>> established aquariums, as possible, my procedure is to begin
>> significantly larger and more frequent water changes on the tanks
>> housing the fish which will be moved. Then the new tank is filled and
>> left to air for a couple of days (allowing filters and heaters to
>> settle in as well). I drain about 1/3 of the new tank off the bottom
>> and skimming the surface (for foreign particles, fines etc which
>> settled or floated). I then fill the difference using water from the
>> source tank(s). The lower water level also makes it easier to catch
>> the fish ;~).
>>
>> What is your cycling strategy? I'd connect the new filter to an
>> existing tank (ie: the mbuna tank processes lots of waste, or the tank
>> whose fish are moving with the filter), and let it run for several
>> weeks.
>>
>> Congrats on the new tank!
>
> The cycling strategy is to take all the medium over with the fish to
> the new tank - so that's everything out of the 404 and to take the 4
> Plus over intact and hang it in the tank in addition to the 5FX. The
> Mbuna tank will then inherit the 404 either instead of or in addition
> to the 304 currently in use (this tank also has a 4 Plus internal in
> addition to the external). This still leaves me with a spare 304 (lives
> in the garage) for any disasters. Just need to check the compatibility
> of the pipework between the 304/404 and the 5FX - one of the nice
> things with the 304/404 is that they are completely interchangeable and
> spares are the same. It would be good though to have the new pump
> working for a while to test out reliability.

Sounds like you have a plan. As far as I know, the 304 and 404 are
identical filter systems except for the height of the filter box (so the
sponges are a little longer and there is one more filter media box), and
the pump (impeller is larger on the 404). When I wanted low turbulence
with high bacterial capability, I would put a 304 pump-head on a 404
base, no problem. The 104 and 204 share some common characteristics as
well (same hose diameter, but smaller than the 304/404 hose diameter). I
think the 5FX will not share any components or hose diameter.

My storage room looks like an old pet shop, with antique pumps and
filters. I picked up a Pro60 and an Emporer 400 on sale 2-3 years ago
(for future use) and I keep trying to use them, but the applications have
always been better for different systems :( It's actually getting
frustrating, as I've had them out of the boxes 3 times and I have yet to
connect them up to try them. By the time I do, if they don't work, the
manufacturer will laugh at me as they will be so old, grr.

It sure is helpful to have a supply of different systems to move around,
tank to tank. Filters have to be the best investment, as they can last a
life time.

> Thanks for the advice on the water changes - that makes a lot of sense.
> My thought had been to use the water from changes over a week or so to
> fill the new tank - I'm reluctant to use water from any other tank in
> case of cross infection. The initial plan is just to take the fish from
> the existing tank until the tank settles - I might add the 3 plus
> Platys currently in the kitchen but only if the fry have grown out a
> bit....
>
> Gill

I'm reluctant to use to much fresh water (for obvious reasons), but I'm
just as reluctant to use too much established tank water (even from a
variety of different tanks). I think both have their pros/cons and you
get the best value with a good mix.
--
www.NetMax.tk

[Gill Passman]

NetMax wrote:
> "Gill Passman" > wrote in message
> .. .
>
>>NetMax wrote:
>>
>>>"Gill Passman" wrote ...
>>>
>>>
>>>>Elaine T wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Gill Passman wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Mary Burns wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>"Gill Passman" wrote ...
>>>
>>><snip>
>>>
>>>....currently wondering about the water as the new tank is over
>>>
>>>
>>>>double the capacity of the old one and I don't want to send anyone
>>>>into shock - will post separately on that once I get my head round
>>>>what I think I should do....
>>>>
>>>>Gill
>>>
>>>
>>>As the objective is to make the new water as similar to the
>>>established aquariums, as possible, my procedure is to begin
>>>significantly larger and more frequent water changes on the tanks
>>>housing the fish which will be moved. Then the new tank is filled and
>>>left to air for a couple of days (allowing filters and heaters to
>>>settle in as well). I drain about 1/3 of the new tank off the bottom
>>>and skimming the surface (for foreign particles, fines etc which
>>>settled or floated). I then fill the difference using water from the
>>>source tank(s). The lower water level also makes it easier to catch
>>>the fish ;~).
>>>
>>>What is your cycling strategy? I'd connect the new filter to an
>>>existing tank (ie: the mbuna tank processes lots of waste, or the tank
>>>whose fish are moving with the filter), and let it run for several
>>>weeks.
>>>
>>>Congrats on the new tank!
>>
>>The cycling strategy is to take all the medium over with the fish to
>>the new tank - so that's everything out of the 404 and to take the 4
>>Plus over intact and hang it in the tank in addition to the 5FX. The
>>Mbuna tank will then inherit the 404 either instead of or in addition
>>to the 304 currently in use (this tank also has a 4 Plus internal in
>>addition to the external). This still leaves me with a spare 304 (lives
>>in the garage) for any disasters. Just need to check the compatibility
>>of the pipework between the 304/404 and the 5FX - one of the nice
>>things with the 304/404 is that they are completely interchangeable and
>>spares are the same. It would be good though to have the new pump
>>working for a while to test out reliability.
>
>
> Sounds like you have a plan. As far as I know, the 304 and 404 are
> identical filter systems except for the height of the filter box (so the
> sponges are a little longer and there is one more filter media box), and
> the pump (impeller is larger on the 404). When I wanted low turbulence
> with high bacterial capability, I would put a 304 pump-head on a 404
> base, no problem. The 104 and 204 share some common characteristics as
> well (same hose diameter, but smaller than the 304/404 hose diameter). I
> think the 5FX will not share any components or hose diameter.
>
> My storage room looks like an old pet shop, with antique pumps and
> filters. I picked up a Pro60 and an Emporer 400 on sale 2-3 years ago
> (for future use) and I keep trying to use them, but the applications have
> always been better for different systems :( It's actually getting
> frustrating, as I've had them out of the boxes 3 times and I have yet to
> connect them up to try them. By the time I do, if they don't work, the
> manufacturer will laugh at me as they will be so old, grr.
>
> It sure is helpful to have a supply of different systems to move around,
> tank to tank. Filters have to be the best investment, as they can last a
> life time.
>
>
>>Thanks for the advice on the water changes - that makes a lot of sense.
>>My thought had been to use the water from changes over a week or so to
>>fill the new tank - I'm reluctant to use water from any other tank in
>>case of cross infection. The initial plan is just to take the fish from
>>the existing tank until the tank settles - I might add the 3 plus
>>Platys currently in the kitchen but only if the fry have grown out a
>>bit....
>>
>>Gill
>
>
> I'm reluctant to use to much fresh water (for obvious reasons), but I'm
> just as reluctant to use too much established tank water (even from a
> variety of different tanks). I think both have their pros/cons and you
> get the best value with a good mix.

Checked at the LFS - the 5FX uses wider piping. Also the sponges are
different sizes - with the 5FX they slot are longer and slot around the
cannister. They did suggest that maybe I chop up my sponges from the 404
and put them in one of the chambers - worth considering.

With the water mix - I'm wondering if I start doing changes on the
established tank direct into the new tank until I'm ready to do the move
- hopefully if I can get the mix right it would end up being the
equivalent of a 30% change....

Thanks for all your suggestions
Gill
Gill

[Koi-lo]

"Gill Passman" > wrote in message
.. .
> The difference here is that I'm actually replacing the tank not setting up
> a new one so filters/filter medium go with the fish on the move along with
> most of the water. When setting up a new tank I hang filters on
> established tanks first (currently have a little Fluval 1 Plus hanging in
> my 15 gall to keep the bacteria good before resetting up my Hex) or pinch
> filter medium from establsihed filters.
==========================
That almost always works! I do the same thing with my Aquaclears. :-) I
either run the one for the new set-up on an established tank for a week or
more - or I use the seeded sponges from well established filters. I think
it's all going to work out great for you, and as I said, I look forward to
seeing some pics of your tank and fish.........
--

Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995...
Aquariums since 1952
My Pond & Aquarium Pages:
NEW PAGE: Aquariums:
http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy/Aquarium-Page4.html
http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy
~~~ }<((((o> ~~~ }<{{{{o> ~~~ }<(((((o>

[Gill Passman]

Gill Passman wrote:
> Still planning the upgrade on my tank but one thing that is worrying me
> right now, ironically, is the lack of algae that there will be in the
> new tank and how this will impact my otos that won't eat anything other
> algae.
>
> So, I need to look at ways of introducing algae into the new tank - I
> could take plants from the Malawi tank that always seem to get coated
> but was wondering if anyone has any ideas as to how to get a more
> sustainable source of algae until it starts to grow naturally in the new
> tank - I'd hate my algae eaters to suffer because of the move.
>
> TIA
> Gill

Just to update. I went out and bought some rocks that will go into the
new tank eventually. I put them in the existing tank a couple of weeks
ago. The otos are finding some algae on them so looks like it may work.

Thanks to everyone
Gill