moving tank

[LM]

we are doing some serious rearrangement of furniture, and one thing
that will have to move is my 37gal tank.

I know I'm supposed to empty the tank completely before moving it...
but the tank is heavily planted, lots of fast-moving loaches and
invisible otos (they are in there. I just don't see them, and I have
no idea how many are in there) that I pretty much will not be able to
catch them and relocate them while moving, without stressing them out
so much or injuring or killing them accidentally... I've got many b.
sidthemunki's where the professionals (the LFS) took good 10min trying
to catch them in an empty tank. if it takes him that long, I dont'
even want to know how long it'll take me to get them all out!

so.. I'm thinking about draining the tank most of the way, may be leave
1-2" of water (just enough that the fish won't die) and then move it..
carefully...

I know, not a great solution... but I'm trying to plan this out as
best as I can (like calling LFS to ask if they have the same tank in
stock or how quickly I can get hold of a replacement so if it does
spring a leak, or breaks, I can replace it.. and yes, at that point, it
will become an overhaul job), etc...

any other tips??

linda

[Mariachi]

I just moved my tank today it is only a 14g tank though. I just drained
most of the water out took some of the fish out (not all though) and
left about 2" of water and just moved it very slowly and carefully. And
then put everyone back etc. Everything seems to be ok but then it is a
much smaller tank.

[Dick]

On 19 Jan 2006 23:46:59 -0800, "LM" > wrote:

>we are doing some serious rearrangement of furniture, and one thing
>that will have to move is my 37gal tank.
>
>I know I'm supposed to empty the tank completely before moving it...
>but the tank is heavily planted, lots of fast-moving loaches and
>invisible otos (they are in there. I just don't see them, and I have
>no idea how many are in there) that I pretty much will not be able to
>catch them and relocate them while moving, without stressing them out
>so much or injuring or killing them accidentally... I've got many b.
>sidthemunki's where the professionals (the LFS) took good 10min trying
>to catch them in an empty tank. if it takes him that long, I dont'
>even want to know how long it'll take me to get them all out!
>
>so.. I'm thinking about draining the tank most of the way, may be leave
>1-2" of water (just enough that the fish won't die) and then move it..
>carefully...
>
>I know, not a great solution... but I'm trying to plan this out as
>best as I can (like calling LFS to ask if they have the same tank in
>stock or how quickly I can get hold of a replacement so if it does
>spring a leak, or breaks, I can replace it.. and yes, at that point, it
>will become an overhaul job), etc...
>
>any other tips??
>
>linda

People have reported moving tanks before in this group. Weight and
support are the 2 problems that come to mind. If you leave 10 gallons
of water you are talking 100 - 150 pounds. If the stand/cabinet is
strong enough and 2 people can lift it. I don't think you will have a
problem, especially if you move it on its stand.

I have moved tanks before, just too long ago to recall how I did it.
dick

[Gill Passman]

LM wrote:
> we are doing some serious rearrangement of furniture, and one thing
> that will have to move is my 37gal tank.
>
> I know I'm supposed to empty the tank completely before moving it...
> but the tank is heavily planted, lots of fast-moving loaches and
> invisible otos (they are in there. I just don't see them, and I have
> no idea how many are in there) that I pretty much will not be able to
> catch them and relocate them while moving, without stressing them out
> so much or injuring or killing them accidentally... I've got many b.
> sidthemunki's where the professionals (the LFS) took good 10min trying
> to catch them in an empty tank. if it takes him that long, I dont'
> even want to know how long it'll take me to get them all out!
>
> so.. I'm thinking about draining the tank most of the way, may be leave
> 1-2" of water (just enough that the fish won't die) and then move it..
> carefully...
>
> I know, not a great solution... but I'm trying to plan this out as
> best as I can (like calling LFS to ask if they have the same tank in
> stock or how quickly I can get hold of a replacement so if it does
> spring a leak, or breaks, I can replace it.. and yes, at that point, it
> will become an overhaul job), etc...
>
> any other tips??
>
> linda
>
I was going to post the same question in a few days. I've got to move a
47.5 UK gall tank complete with occupants in a few weeks so that I can
set up it's replacement.

I'll be interested to see what answers you get

Gill

[2pods]

> I was going to post the same question in a few days. I've got to move a
> 47.5 UK gall tank complete with occupants in a few weeks so that I can set
> up it's replacement.
>
> I'll be interested to see what answers you get
>
> Gill

Well, my tank move is scheduled for tomorrow.

I have to go collect the rubber coated dollies today from HSS.
I can't move it tonight, as I can't get the victims, sorry "volunteers", to
come until tomorrow afternoon.

It will still be quite a lift with four of us considering the tank (empty)
weighs 81k and the stand weighs 51k, plus a couple of inches of water and
gravel etc.
The trolley things each take 300k and I've ordered two.

I've already had a practice with the water and if I take 25% and dump it (as
in a water change), I can get the rest into 5 tough plastic containers to
put back in after the move via a pump.

Wish me luck !

Peter

[Kurt]

"LM" > wrote in
oups.com:

> we are doing some serious rearrangement of furniture, and one
> thing that will have to move is my 37gal tank.
>

A couple of ideas:
Yes, you can reduce the water level to a couple of inches, but if the
tank is joggled too much it can stir up a lot of detritus from the
gravel. I'd drain off the water into some usable containers so that you
can return the same water to the tank when the move is completed.

Depending on the size and weight of the drained tank, and if you have
sturdy help; you can gently lift one end of the tank and slip a 3/4
inch thick piece of plywood under it. The plywood will help in two
ways:1) it gives you something to grab onto 2)it will provide support
for the frame of the tank.

[snip]>
> so.. I'm thinking about draining the tank most of the way, may be
> leave 1-2" of water (just enough that the fish won't die) and then
> move it.. carefully...
>

See above. I moved a 29g Goldfish tank a couple of months ago, but was
able to catch all the fish. At the same time, I moved a 10g comunity
tropical tank using the methods that I list above. Did not lose any of
the fish or plants in the 10g. It did get stirred up a bit and I was
concerned about that, but a new filter quickly cleared the cloudiness.


> I know, not a great solution... but I'm trying to plan this out
> as best as I can (like calling LFS to ask if they have the same
> tank in stock or how quickly I can get hold of a replacement so if
> it does spring a leak, or breaks, I can replace it.. and yes, at
> that point, it will become an overhaul job), etc...
>

If you are careful and use gentle technique, you shouldn't have too
much of a problem. Be careful how you lift too. Your back is more
important than a few plants and fish.
--
Cheers,
Kurt

[Richard Sexton]

In article >,
Dick > wrote:
>On 19 Jan 2006 23:46:59 -0800, "LM" > wrote:
>
>>we are doing some serious rearrangement of furniture, and one thing
>>that will have to move is my 37gal tank.
>>
>>I know I'm supposed to empty the tank completely before moving it...
>>but the tank is heavily planted, lots of fast-moving loaches and
>>invisible otos (they are in there. I just don't see them, and I have
>>no idea how many are in there) that I pretty much will not be able to
>>catch them and relocate them while moving, without stressing them out
>>so much or injuring or killing them accidentally... I've got many b.
>>sidthemunki's where the professionals (the LFS) took good 10min trying
>>to catch them in an empty tank. if it takes him that long, I dont'
>>even want to know how long it'll take me to get them all out!
>>
>>so.. I'm thinking about draining the tank most of the way, may be leave
>>1-2" of water (just enough that the fish won't die) and then move it..
>>carefully...

You can generally leave 1/3 of the water in, although that's always
seemed way too much to me. A couple of nches is no probkem, jsy move
CAREFLLY and SLOWLY.

--
Need Mercedes parts ? - http://parts.mbz.org
Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org
1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home page: http://rs79.vrx.net
633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net

[Fishman]

Speaking of moving tanks, we will be moving in the near future and I have
the task of moveing my 240 gal tank. No it is not a simple move since the
set up requires a sump in addition to the tank

It obviously will be an all day event. My real problem would be how to
properly store the inhabitants while the tank is being relocated. Nearest
LFS that I would trust is on the other side of town.

I'm also concerned that my loaches will hide in the false driftwood and I
won't be able to get them out.

Just good planning, a preper set up and with that large of a tank, lots of
friends.

Fishman

"LM" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> we are doing some serious rearrangement of furniture, and one thing
> that will have to move is my 37gal tank.
>
> I know I'm supposed to empty the tank completely before moving it...
> but the tank is heavily planted, lots of fast-moving loaches and
> invisible otos (they are in there. I just don't see them, and I have
> no idea how many are in there) that I pretty much will not be able to
> catch them and relocate them while moving, without stressing them out
> so much or injuring or killing them accidentally... I've got many b.
> sidthemunki's where the professionals (the LFS) took good 10min trying
> to catch them in an empty tank. if it takes him that long, I dont'
> even want to know how long it'll take me to get them all out!
>
> so.. I'm thinking about draining the tank most of the way, may be leave
> 1-2" of water (just enough that the fish won't die) and then move it..
> carefully...
>
> I know, not a great solution... but I'm trying to plan this out as
> best as I can (like calling LFS to ask if they have the same tank in
> stock or how quickly I can get hold of a replacement so if it does
> spring a leak, or breaks, I can replace it.. and yes, at that point, it
> will become an overhaul job), etc...
>
> any other tips??
>
> linda
>

[Koi-lo]

"LM" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> we are doing some serious rearrangement of furniture, and one thing
> that will have to move is my 37gal tank.
===============================
I did that with a 55g about 14 years ago. I left about 2" of water and all
the plants. All I removed were the large angelfish for obvious reasons. A
few strong men moved it without a problem. Balance the weight carefully and
don't grab the upper rim as you probably already know. I still have that
tank. :-) I'm hoping to move it into my diningroom-office from the
sun-fishroom this spring.
--
Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995...
Aquariums since 1952
My Pond & Aquarium Pages:
Aquariums: http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy/Aquarium-Page4.html
http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy
~~~ }<((((o> ~~~ }<{{{{o> ~~~ }<(((((o>

[Koi-lo]

"Dick" > wrote in message
...
> People have reported moving tanks before in this group. Weight and
> support are the 2 problems that come to mind.

You need two really strong people to move a larger tank. And I mean strong.
The weight of the 1 to 2" of water along with the gravel can have
considerable weight. If there's any doubt they can move if safely it's
better to empty it, move it empty and redo the whole thing. Why take a
chance on someone getting injured and a valuable tank getting destroyed?
Even a dropped 10 tank can cause considerable injury to someone if it lands
on their foot.....

If you leave 10 gallons
> of water you are talking 100 - 150 pounds. If the stand/cabinet is
> strong enough and 2 people can lift it. I don't think you will have a
> problem, especially if you move it on its stand.
>
> I have moved tanks before, just too long ago to recall how I did it.
> dick
--

Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995...
Aquariums since 1952
My Pond & Aquarium Pages:
Aquariums: http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy/Aquarium-Page4.html
http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy
~~~ }<((((o> ~~~ }<{{{{o> ~~~ }<(((((o>

[Kurt]

Gene Linkoski > wrote in
:

> On 19 Jan 2006 23:46:59 -0800, "LM" > wrote:
>
>>we are doing some serious rearrangement of furniture, and one thing
>>that will have to move is my 37gal tank.
>>
> ...
>>linda
>
> I moved my 75-gallon discus tank to the opposite wall last year. I
> left my 8 discus fish and plants and gravel in it. I emptied half the
> water before moving. It is on a heavy wood stand. I bought some of
> those sliding moving disks. Slipped them underneath and pushed/slid
> the whole unit to the opposite wall. I have carpetted floors.
>

Two weeks ago we moved SWMBO's 75g turtle tank and stand using slding
disks on deep pile carpet. Tank was emptied of all but 2 inches of
water and 2 inches of rocks. Moved more easily than I thought it would.
Stand is solid oak and weighs in around 200 lbs by itself.
IF you take things slowly and with some thought, you can do just about
anything.
--
Cheers,
Kurt

[Koi-lo]

"Kurt" > wrote in message
...
> Two weeks ago we moved SWMBO's 75g turtle tank and stand using slding
> disks on deep pile carpet.
=========================
What are "sliding disks" and where would someone buy them? I sure can use
any product that will help us move a 55g this spring.

Thanks.....
--

Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995...
Aquariums since 1952
My Pond & Aquarium Pages:
Aquariums: http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy/Aquarium-Page4.html
http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy
~~~ }<((((o> ~~~ }<{{{{o> ~~~ }<(((((o>

[Daniel Morrow]

Bottom posted.
LM wrote:
> we are doing some serious rearrangement of furniture, and one thing
> that will have to move is my 37gal tank.
>
> I know I'm supposed to empty the tank completely before moving it...
> but the tank is heavily planted, lots of fast-moving loaches and
> invisible otos (they are in there. I just don't see them, and I have
> no idea how many are in there) that I pretty much will not be able to
> catch them and relocate them while moving, without stressing them out
> so much or injuring or killing them accidentally... I've got many b.
> sidthemunki's where the professionals (the LFS) took good 10min trying
> to catch them in an empty tank. if it takes him that long, I dont'
> even want to know how long it'll take me to get them all out!
>
> so.. I'm thinking about draining the tank most of the way, may be
> leave 1-2" of water (just enough that the fish won't die) and then
> move it.. carefully...
>
> I know, not a great solution... but I'm trying to plan this out as
> best as I can (like calling LFS to ask if they have the same tank in
> stock or how quickly I can get hold of a replacement so if it does
> spring a leak, or breaks, I can replace it.. and yes, at that point,
> it will become an overhaul job), etc...
>
> any other tips??
>
> linda

2 things - 1 is you might try siphoning out the substrate before moving but
leave about 1 or 2 inches of water during the move and you can use a 2 inch
diameter (or less depending) vinyl hose bought from a local hardware store,
and as netmax says keep the receiving container (bucket) at an optimal
height so the siphon isn't too fast; 2 don't panic if you are reasonable as
it almost certainly will be obvious if the tank breaks (i.e. either the tank
is broken or it isn't so don't second guess yourself after the move if there
is no definite sign of breakage). Good luck and later!

[Altum]

Fishman wrote:
> Speaking of moving tanks, we will be moving in the near future and I have
> the task of moveing my 240 gal tank. No it is not a simple move since the
> set up requires a sump in addition to the tank
>
> It obviously will be an all day event. My real problem would be how to
> properly store the inhabitants while the tank is being relocated. Nearest
> LFS that I would trust is on the other side of town.

Any reason why you're not going to move them in fish bags?

> I'm also concerned that my loaches will hide in the false driftwood and I
> won't be able to get them out.

Been there, had that problem. ;-) Move the driftwood and loaches
together in a bucket or trash can of water.

> Just good planning, a preper set up and with that large of a tank, lots of
> friends.

Yep.

[Kurt]

"Koi-lo" > wrote in
:

> What are "sliding disks" and where would someone buy them? I sure
> can use any product that will help us move a 55g this spring.
>
>

The disks are variously called Sliding Robots, furniture movers or
Furniture Sliders. I've purchased them at Lowes and Walmart. I put a
big set under our side-by-side refridgerator to move on carpeted
kitchem floor. It moves fully loaded will out a huge amount of effort.

One side of these devices is a slick surfaced plastic face (possibly
teflon, but mebbe not), the other side is some softer plastic pad. I'm
convinced that they are the most handy idea that I've run across in
years. They work great on carpet: berber, indoor-outdoor, or pile. I
would not reccomend them for bare wood. For hardwood floors a felt pad
would be my choice for sliding things.

--
Cheers,
Kurt

[NetMax]

"Kurt" > wrote in message
...
> "LM" > wrote in
> oups.com:
>
>> we are doing some serious rearrangement of furniture, and one
>> thing that will have to move is my 37gal tank.
>>
>
> A couple of ideas:
> Yes, you can reduce the water level to a couple of inches, but if the
> tank is joggled too much it can stir up a lot of detritus from the
> gravel. I'd drain off the water into some usable containers so that you
> can return the same water to the tank when the move is completed.
>
> Depending on the size and weight of the drained tank, and if you have
> sturdy help; you can gently lift one end of the tank and slip a 3/4
> inch thick piece of plywood under it. The plywood will help in two
> ways:1) it gives you something to grab onto 2)it will provide support
> for the frame of the tank.
>
> [snip]>
>> so.. I'm thinking about draining the tank most of the way, may be
>> leave 1-2" of water (just enough that the fish won't die) and then
>> move it.. carefully...
>>
>
> See above. I moved a 29g Goldfish tank a couple of months ago, but was
> able to catch all the fish. At the same time, I moved a 10g comunity
> tropical tank using the methods that I list above. Did not lose any of
> the fish or plants in the 10g. It did get stirred up a bit and I was
> concerned about that, but a new filter quickly cleared the cloudiness.
>
>
>> I know, not a great solution... but I'm trying to plan this out
>> as best as I can (like calling LFS to ask if they have the same
>> tank in stock or how quickly I can get hold of a replacement so if
>> it does spring a leak, or breaks, I can replace it.. and yes, at
>> that point, it will become an overhaul job), etc...
>>
>
> If you are careful and use gentle technique, you shouldn't have too
> much of a problem. Be careful how you lift too. Your back is more
> important than a few plants and fish.
> --
> Cheers,
> Kurt


I like Kurt's approach. The plywood under the tank also prevents it from
twisting, which I think is one of the biggest dangers when moving a tank.
Also try to put in soft water-breaks. If there are no objects in the
tank, the water splashes around a lot more, but you need to be careful
that the objects are fish-safe and won't trap them against the glass.
I've used medium river stones (2-3" oval) and silk plant bundles, but I'm
sure there are better things to use.
--
www.NetMax.tk

[Fishman]

I usually have the fish designated to two or three 5 gal buckets.

The driftwood decorations in a bucket may work, but due to the size of my
tank, I have the very large size and I don't know if they'll fit.

Fishman


"Altum" > wrote in message
. ..
> Fishman wrote:
> > Speaking of moving tanks, we will be moving in the near future and I
have
> > the task of moveing my 240 gal tank. No it is not a simple move since
the
> > set up requires a sump in addition to the tank
> >
> > It obviously will be an all day event. My real problem would be how to
> > properly store the inhabitants while the tank is being relocated.
Nearest
> > LFS that I would trust is on the other side of town.
>
> Any reason why you're not going to move them in fish bags?
>
> > I'm also concerned that my loaches will hide in the false driftwood and
I
> > won't be able to get them out.
>
> Been there, had that problem. ;-) Move the driftwood and loaches
> together in a bucket or trash can of water.
>
> > Just good planning, a preper set up and with that large of a tank, lots
of
> > friends.
>
> Yep.
>

[Koi-lo]

"Kurt" > wrote in message
...
> The disks are variously called Sliding Robots, furniture movers or
> Furniture Sliders. I've purchased them at Lowes and Walmart. I put a
> big set under our side-by-side refridgerator to move on carpeted
> kitchem floor. It moves fully loaded will out a huge amount of effort.
>
> One side of these devices is a slick surfaced plastic face (possibly
> teflon, but mebbe not), the other side is some softer plastic pad. I'm
> convinced that they are the most handy idea that I've run across in
> years. They work great on carpet: berber, indoor-outdoor, or pile. I
> would not reccomend them for bare wood. For hardwood floors a felt pad
> would be my choice for sliding things.
==========================
Thanks. I described them (per your post) to my husband, and he says he
knows what these are and we'll pick some up. We didn't know what they were
called.

About 2/4s of the way will be over linoleum and the rest over a medium pile
carpet. I can't wait to get it in here. It'll be heavily planted and
contain my favorite fancy goldfish. :-) Actually I have to measure them as
I believe both 55s will fit on that wall if I move the stand with the 2 tens
somewhere else......
--

Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995...
Aquariums since 1952
My Pond & Aquarium Pages:
Aquariums: http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy/Aquarium-Page4.html
http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy
~~~ }<((((o> ~~~ }<{{{{o> ~~~ }<(((((o>

[Koi-lo]

"Fishman" > wrote in message
news:3GiAf.26373$RK3.25424@trnddc06...
>I usually have the fish designated to two or three 5 gal buckets.
>
> The driftwood decorations in a bucket may work, but due to the size of my
> tank, I have the very large size and I don't know if they'll fit.
==================
Use one of those inexpensive long totes (about $14) from Wally World with
just enough water to cover the driftwood.
--

Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995...
Aquariums since 1952
My Pond & Aquarium Pages:
Aquariums: http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy/Aquarium-Page4.html
http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy
~~~ }<((((o> ~~~ }<{{{{o> ~~~ }<(((((o>

[Dick]

On Sat, 21 Jan 2006 02:39:23 -0000, Kurt > wrote:

>"Koi-lo" > wrote in
:
>
>> What are "sliding disks" and where would someone buy them? I sure
>> can use any product that will help us move a 55g this spring.
>>
>>
>
>The disks are variously called Sliding Robots, furniture movers or
>Furniture Sliders. I've purchased them at Lowes and Walmart. I put a
>big set under our side-by-side refridgerator to move on carpeted
>kitchem floor. It moves fully loaded will out a huge amount of effort.
>
>One side of these devices is a slick surfaced plastic face (possibly
>teflon, but mebbe not), the other side is some softer plastic pad. I'm
>convinced that they are the most handy idea that I've run across in
>years. They work great on carpet: berber, indoor-outdoor, or pile. I
>would not reccomend them for bare wood. For hardwood floors a felt pad
>would be my choice for sliding things.

http://nbchand.en.alibaba.com/product/0/50419875/Sliding_Robots/showimg.html

eBay also has some listed, but this site has a larger photo.

What I don't yet understand is how to get them under the heavy object
in the first place?

dick

[Kurt]

Dick > wrote in
:

> What I don't yet understand is how to get them under the heavy object
> in the first place?
>

Welllll, I used leverage to lift one end of the turtle tank stand. A
2X4 and a prybar. Or I suppose you could try the brute strength-mass
force approach IF your back can stand it.

Seriously, a fulcrum and a good lever is far safer and often easier. It
only takes a little elevation to get the end of the prybar under the
base if the base as any gaps under it. I'd start with something thin
and work up to the prybar, sort of a series of wedges.

--
Cheers,
Kurt

[Kurt]

"NetMax" > wrote in
:

> Also try to put in soft water-breaks. If there are no objects in
> the tank, the water splashes around a lot more, but you need to be
> careful that the objects are fish-safe and won't trap them against
> the glass. I've used medium river stones (2-3" oval) and silk
> plant bundles, but I'm sure there are better things to use.
>

Ohhh, good idea! "Bulkheads" to reduce the wave action. I think that
the silk plant bundles or plastic plant bundles would be the best
thing.

I like the way you think, NM!

--
Cheers,
Kurt

[NetMax]

"Dick" > wrote in message
...
> On Sat, 21 Jan 2006 02:39:23 -0000, Kurt > wrote:
>
>>"Koi-lo" > wrote in
:
>>
>>> What are "sliding disks" and where would someone buy them? I sure
>>> can use any product that will help us move a 55g this spring.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>The disks are variously called Sliding Robots, furniture movers or
>>Furniture Sliders. I've purchased them at Lowes and Walmart. I put a
>>big set under our side-by-side refridgerator to move on carpeted
>>kitchem floor. It moves fully loaded will out a huge amount of effort.
>>
>>One side of these devices is a slick surfaced plastic face (possibly
>>teflon, but mebbe not), the other side is some softer plastic pad. I'm
>>convinced that they are the most handy idea that I've run across in
>>years. They work great on carpet: berber, indoor-outdoor, or pile. I
>>would not reccomend them for bare wood. For hardwood floors a felt pad
>>would be my choice for sliding things.
>
> http://nbchand.en.alibaba.com/product/0/50419875/Sliding_Robots/showimg.html
>
> eBay also has some listed, but this site has a larger photo.
>
> What I don't yet understand is how to get them under the heavy object
> in the first place?
>
> dick

If it can't be lifted by hand (and getting someone else to slip the
sliders under), then I use a hydraulic car jack. Scissor jacks from cars
are not quite as good as you need someone to crank it and at least one
person to spot the tank. With the long hydraulic jacks you can give the
last push on the lever by yourself, steady the tank and then slip the
sliders underneath (doing almost everything by yourself, but having
helpers is recommended, especially for moving the tank ;~).

I've kept a small piece if carpet under tanks before, and when I wanted
to move them, I would clamp two pieces of wood to the end of the carpet
(as a handle), and pull/slide the tank along hardwood floors.

If you use nylon sliders, consider leaving them under the tank. They
provide a wider 'footprint' than the base of metal stands, causing less
damage to some floors (esp. carpets).
--
www.NetMax.tk

[NetMax]

Moving a 240g is an orchestrated project, requiring holding tanks at
destination, transport containers (think about the styrofoam boxes pets
shops receive their fish deliveries in), a lot of advance preparation and
professional movers (or at least the moving straps). I hope it goes well
for you, and you don't have to deal with too many stairs or curves (and
curved staircases are the worst ;~).
--
www.NetMax.tk

"Fishman" > wrote in message
news:4g9Af.21$Me5.19@trnddc05...
> Speaking of moving tanks, we will be moving in the near future and I
> have
> the task of moveing my 240 gal tank. No it is not a simple move since
> the
> set up requires a sump in addition to the tank
>
> It obviously will be an all day event. My real problem would be how to
> properly store the inhabitants while the tank is being relocated.
> Nearest
> LFS that I would trust is on the other side of town.
>
> I'm also concerned that my loaches will hide in the false driftwood and
> I
> won't be able to get them out.
>
> Just good planning, a preper set up and with that large of a tank, lots
> of
> friends.
>
> Fishman
>
> "LM" > wrote in message
> oups.com...
>> we are doing some serious rearrangement of furniture, and one thing
>> that will have to move is my 37gal tank.
>>
>> I know I'm supposed to empty the tank completely before moving it...
>> but the tank is heavily planted, lots of fast-moving loaches and
>> invisible otos (they are in there. I just don't see them, and I have
>> no idea how many are in there) that I pretty much will not be able to
>> catch them and relocate them while moving, without stressing them out
>> so much or injuring or killing them accidentally... I've got many b.
>> sidthemunki's where the professionals (the LFS) took good 10min trying
>> to catch them in an empty tank. if it takes him that long, I dont'
>> even want to know how long it'll take me to get them all out!
>>
>> so.. I'm thinking about draining the tank most of the way, may be
>> leave
>> 1-2" of water (just enough that the fish won't die) and then move it..
>> carefully...
>>
>> I know, not a great solution... but I'm trying to plan this out as
>> best as I can (like calling LFS to ask if they have the same tank in
>> stock or how quickly I can get hold of a replacement so if it does
>> spring a leak, or breaks, I can replace it.. and yes, at that point,
>> it
>> will become an overhaul job), etc...
>>
>> any other tips??
>>
>> linda
>>
>
>

[Gill Passman]

NetMax wrote:
> "Dick" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>On Sat, 21 Jan 2006 02:39:23 -0000, Kurt > wrote:
>>
>>
>>>"Koi-lo" > wrote in
:
>>>
>>>
>>>>What are "sliding disks" and where would someone buy them? I sure
>>>>can use any product that will help us move a 55g this spring.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>The disks are variously called Sliding Robots, furniture movers or
>>>Furniture Sliders. I've purchased them at Lowes and Walmart. I put a
>>>big set under our side-by-side refridgerator to move on carpeted
>>>kitchem floor. It moves fully loaded will out a huge amount of effort.
>>>
>>>One side of these devices is a slick surfaced plastic face (possibly
>>>teflon, but mebbe not), the other side is some softer plastic pad. I'm
>>>convinced that they are the most handy idea that I've run across in
>>>years. They work great on carpet: berber, indoor-outdoor, or pile. I
>>>would not reccomend them for bare wood. For hardwood floors a felt pad
>>>would be my choice for sliding things.
>>
>>http://nbchand.en.alibaba.com/product/0/50419875/Sliding_Robots/showimg.html
>>
>>eBay also has some listed, but this site has a larger photo.
>>
>>What I don't yet understand is how to get them under the heavy object
>>in the first place?
>>
>>dick
>
>
> If it can't be lifted by hand (and getting someone else to slip the
> sliders under), then I use a hydraulic car jack. Scissor jacks from cars
> are not quite as good as you need someone to crank it and at least one
> person to spot the tank. With the long hydraulic jacks you can give the
> last push on the lever by yourself, steady the tank and then slip the
> sliders underneath (doing almost everything by yourself, but having
> helpers is recommended, especially for moving the tank ;~).
>
> I've kept a small piece if carpet under tanks before, and when I wanted
> to move them, I would clamp two pieces of wood to the end of the carpet
> (as a handle), and pull/slide the tank along hardwood floors.
>
> If you use nylon sliders, consider leaving them under the tank. They
> provide a wider 'footprint' than the base of metal stands, causing less
> damage to some floors (esp. carpets).

My big tank move is going to take place within the next couple of days.
After reading this thread we are going to remove most of the water into
tubs - just leaving enough for the fish. I will also probably remove the
rocks/driftwood except one bit that is home to the Plec. The tank will
be moving around 10 foot across a wooden floor.

The idea is to lift it and slip wheels under it - these are metal bars
with wheels on (sorry don't know the technical name)..and then wheel it
across the room to it's temporary position. I will then refill it with
the water from the tubs. We might leave the wheels under it to make it
easier when the fish eventually get transferred to the new tank which
has arrived at the LFS (yippee).

I'll let you all know how it goes and how we eventually do it

Gill

[Gill Passman]

LM wrote:
> we are doing some serious rearrangement of furniture, and one thing
> that will have to move is my 37gal tank.
>
> I know I'm supposed to empty the tank completely before moving it...
> but the tank is heavily planted, lots of fast-moving loaches and
> invisible otos (they are in there. I just don't see them, and I have
> no idea how many are in there) that I pretty much will not be able to
> catch them and relocate them while moving, without stressing them out
> so much or injuring or killing them accidentally... I've got many b.
> sidthemunki's where the professionals (the LFS) took good 10min trying
> to catch them in an empty tank. if it takes him that long, I dont'
> even want to know how long it'll take me to get them all out!
>
> so.. I'm thinking about draining the tank most of the way, may be leave
> 1-2" of water (just enough that the fish won't die) and then move it..
> carefully...
>
> I know, not a great solution... but I'm trying to plan this out as
> best as I can (like calling LFS to ask if they have the same tank in
> stock or how quickly I can get hold of a replacement so if it does
> spring a leak, or breaks, I can replace it.. and yes, at that point, it
> will become an overhaul job), etc...
>
> any other tips??
>
> linda
>

Thanks for posting this Linda. It looks like there are quite a few of us
pondering on the same issue...

Gill

[Koi-lo]

"Kurt" > wrote in message
...
> Seriously, a fulcrum and a good lever is far safer and often easier. It
> only takes a little elevation to get the end of the prybar under the
> base if the base as any gaps under it. I'd start with something thin
> and work up to the prybar, sort of a series of wedges.
=====================================
I just looked at the stands under my 55g tanks. There are no gaps between
the wood stand and the linoleum floor. The weight of the stands and tanks
make 100% tight contact with the floor. :-(
--
Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995...
Aquariums since 1952
My Pond & Aquarium Pages:
Aquariums: http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy/Aquarium-Page4.html
http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy
~~~ }<((((o> ~~~ }<{{{{o> ~~~ }<(((((o>

[Koi-lo]

"NetMax" > wrote in message
. ..
> If you use nylon sliders, consider leaving them under the tank. They
> provide a wider 'footprint' than the base of metal stands, causing less
> damage to some floors (esp. carpets).
================================
I don't know anyone still using those metal stands. I don't even see them
in the stores anymore. All I see here in TN are those new wood stands that
only hold one tank. I have the ancient mental stands for my 10s that I
brought from NY in 1979, and one decrepit rusty one for a 55g/30gL out in
the outbuilding. Are they special order now?
--

Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995...
Aquariums since 1952
My Pond & Aquarium Pages:
Aquariums: http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy/Aquarium-Page4.html
http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy
~~~ }<((((o> ~~~ }<{{{{o> ~~~ }<(((((o>

[Koi-lo]

"Gill Passman" > wrote in message
.. .
We might leave the wheels under it to make it
> easier when the fish eventually get transferred to the new tank which has
> arrived at the LFS (yippee).
==============================
Will they deliver it to your home? If not, when are you picking it up?
:-)))
--

Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995...
Aquariums since 1952
My Pond & Aquarium Pages:
Aquariums: http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy/Aquarium-Page4.html
http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy
~~~ }<((((o> ~~~ }<{{{{o> ~~~ }<(((((o>

[Koi-lo]

"NetMax" > wrote in message
. ..
> Moving a 240g is an orchestrated project, requiring holding tanks at
> destination, transport containers (think about the styrofoam boxes pets
> shops receive their fish deliveries in), a lot of advance preparation and
> professional movers (or at least the moving straps). I hope it goes well
> for you, and you don't have to deal with too many stairs or curves (and
> curved staircases are the worst ;~).
================================
In a case of such a huge tank I would think it would be better to pay
professional movers. They have all the equipment to do it safely and
they're INSURED! If you break it you're out of luck. If they break it you
get it replaced for free.
--

Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995...
Aquariums since 1952
My Pond & Aquarium Pages:
Aquariums: http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy/Aquarium-Page4.html
http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy
~~~ }<((((o> ~~~ }<{{{{o> ~~~ }<(((((o>

[Gill Passman]

Koi-lo wrote:
>
> "Gill Passman" > wrote in message
> .. .
> We might leave the wheels under it to make it
>
>> easier when the fish eventually get transferred to the new tank which
>> has arrived at the LFS (yippee).
>
> ==============================
> Will they deliver it to your home? If not, when are you picking it up?
> :-)))

They would deliver but as we've got a van we are going to pick it up -
either tomorrow or Monday. Then I've probably got to wait until next
weekend before work starts on the cabinet :-( but I suppose it gives me
time to finalise my plans and get the substrate, decorations and kit
together....

Gill

[2pods]

>> any other tips??
>>
>> linda
>>
>
> Thanks for posting this Linda. It looks like there are quite a few of us
> pondering on the same issue...
>
> Gill

Well, that's my tank move done.
One Rio 400ltr tank, python a third of the water out.
Use small water feature pump and garden hose to remove water into 75ltr
containers, leaving substrate, plants and a few inches of water for the
fish.

One victem at each corner of the tank, and another in front with this one
metre by half a metre rubber-topped trolley I hired from HSS for £10 for the
weekend.
Lift tank (81k empty plus substrate and water ) and stand (51k) at the same
time (mmmph!!), place trolley underneath.
Wagons roll !

Lift tank and stand again, remove trolley, set tank and stand down.
Transfer water from containers back in with pump and hose, then python in
the one third water change with dechlor.

Touch wood, I think I got away with it !
Only prob was one of my Gold Veiltail Angels stuck in a cave entrance, who I
freed up.
I'll monitor, tank, water and fish closely for a few days.

Hope everyone elses moves go OK

Peter

[NetMax]

"Koi-lo" > wrote in message
...
>
> "NetMax" > wrote in message
> . ..
>> If you use nylon sliders, consider leaving them under the tank. They
>> provide a wider 'footprint' than the base of metal stands, causing
>> less damage to some floors (esp. carpets).
> ================================
> I don't know anyone still using those metal stands. I don't even see
> them in the stores anymore. All I see here in TN are those new wood
> stands that only hold one tank. I have the ancient mental stands for
> my 10s that I brought from NY in 1979, and one decrepit rusty one for a
> 55g/30gL out in the outbuilding. Are they special order now?
> --
>
> Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995...
> Aquariums since 1952
> My Pond & Aquarium Pages:
> Aquariums: http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy/Aquarium-Page4.html
> http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy
> ~~~ }<((((o> ~~~ }<{{{{o> ~~~ }<(((((o>


I don't know if they are special order where you are. For floor
displays, we used full wooden stands, but we kept and sold metal stands
for 20g (less doesn't need a stand) to 120g (more and you can afford wood
;~).
--
www.NetMax.tk

[Kurt]

"Koi-lo" > wrote in
:

> "Kurt" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Seriously, a fulcrum and a good lever is far safer and often
>> easier. It only takes a little elevation to get the end of the
>> prybar under the base if the base as any gaps under it. I'd start
>> with something thin and work up to the prybar, sort of a series
>> of wedges.
> =====================================
> I just looked at the stands under my 55g tanks. There are no gaps
> between the wood stand and the linoleum floor. The weight of the
> stands and tanks make 100% tight contact with the floor. :-(
>

Bummer.
Are there any places that you could get some purchase on the stand to
even create a small gap? SWMBO claims that I'm a stubborn crumudgeon,
reality is that I'm just very persistant. Which is probably why my back
is screwed up, so I look for easier ways of lifting things these days.
You may have to totally drain the tank then use the plywood to move it,
followed by the stand(s).
When I build stands, I leave a couple of relief openings in the bases
so as to have a place to put the prybar.

--
Cheers,
Kurt

[Kurt]

"2pods" > wrote in
:

> Well, that's my tank move done.
> One Rio 400ltr tank, python a third of the water out.
> Use small water feature pump and garden hose to remove water into
> 75ltr containers, leaving substrate, plants and a few inches of
> water for the fish.
>

Glad to know that it went well.

--
Cheers,
Kurt

[LM]

my pleasure.

great conversations going though! I love this... thanks everybody for
posting your thoughts and experiences!

linda

[Larry Blanchard]

Koi-lo wrote:

>> When I build stands, I leave a couple of relief openings in the bases
>> so as to have a place to put the prybar.
>
> That was a smart thing to do.**;-)

I'd go even further. Most floors are not level and trying to get all
four sides to rest on such a floor is impossible.

What I do is build it flat to the floor with a recessed bottom and then
add some bun feet (actually just some square pieces of 2x4) to hold the
whole thing about 1/4" off the floor - or 1/2" if going on carpet.

--
It's turtles, all the way down

[Kurt]

Larry Blanchard > wrote in
:

> Koi-lo wrote:
>
>>> When I build stands, I leave a couple of relief openings in the
>>> bases so as to have a place to put the prybar.
>>
>> That was a smart thing to do.**;-)
>
> I'd go even further. Most floors are not level and trying to get
> all four sides to rest on such a floor is impossible.
>
> What I do is build it flat to the floor with a recessed bottom and
> then add some bun feet (actually just some square pieces of 2x4)
> to hold the whole thing about 1/4" off the floor - or 1/2" if
> going on carpet.
>

Good idea (tm), that. Anything that allows you to have a small gap
betwixt the base and the floor is usefull.

I've cut very shallow and long wedges of hard wood similar to what is
used to level cabinets to level big tanks and stands. If you use an
apron to mask the gap that can be taken off by backing out drywall
screws (that's what I've been using for wood projects for 30+ years)
then the prybar and fulcrum makes things easy.

--
Cheers,
Kurt

[Koi-lo]

"Larry Blanchard" > wrote in message
...
..
>
> What I do is build it flat to the floor with a recessed bottom and then
> add some bun feet (actually just some square pieces of 2x4) to hold the
> whole thing about 1/4" off the floor - or 1/2" if going on carpet.
====================
That puts all the weight on the four buns or feet. We wanted the weight
spread out across the floor joists since there were two 55gs going on one
wall.
--
Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995...
Aquariums since 1952
My Pond & Aquarium Pages:
http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy
~~~ }<((((o> ~~~ }<{{{{o> ~~~ }<(((((o>

[Kurt]

"Koi-lo" > wrote in
:

>
> "Larry Blanchard" > wrote in message
> ...
> .
>>
>> What I do is build it flat to the floor with a recessed bottom
>> and then add some bun feet (actually just some square pieces of
>> 2x4) to hold the whole thing about 1/4" off the floor - or 1/2"
>> if going on carpet.
> ====================
> That puts all the weight on the four buns or feet. We wanted the
> weight spread out across the floor joists since there were two
> 55gs going on one wall.

True, it does concentrate the weight on the buns. How many of them
there are under the stand would be a factor. Whether it is four or
eight or sixteen, each foot would share the weight.

BTW I have an idea for you:
You could use an electic drill with a spade bit to place holes in the
sides of the base where you are sure that you're not going to drill
nails/screws/bolts. Then depending on the size of the hole, you can
insert either a bolt or a large dowel to provide a 'lift point' so you
could raise the stand and slip the sliders under it. I'd go with a
3/4inch dowel or at least a 1/2 bolt. In either case the hole can be
plugged after the move. If the weight of the filled 55g tanks and
stands is a serious consideration for the flooring, take the sliders
back out after moving.

--
Cheers,
Kurt

[Koi-lo]

"Kurt" > wrote in message
...
> "Koi-lo" > wrote in
>> That puts all the weight on the four buns or feet. We wanted the
>> weight spread out across the floor joists since there were two
>> 55gs going on one wall.
===============
> True, it does concentrate the weight on the buns. How many of them
> there are under the stand would be a factor. Whether it is four or
> eight or sixteen, each foot would share the weight.
>
> BTW I have an idea for you:
> You could use an electic drill with a spade bit to place holes in the
> sides of the base where you are sure that you're not going to drill
> nails/screws/bolts. Then depending on the size of the hole, you can
> insert either a bolt or a large dowel to provide a 'lift point' so you
> could raise the stand and slip the sliders under it. I'd go with a
> 3/4inch dowel or at least a 1/2 bolt. In either case the hole can be
> plugged after the move. If the weight of the filled 55g tanks and
> stands is a serious consideration for the flooring, take the sliders
> back out after moving.
===============
Thanks Kurt, it's certainly something to consider.......
--
Koi-Lo.... frugal ponding since 1995...
Aquariums since 1952
My Pond & Aquarium Pages:
http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shastadaisy
~~~ }<((((o> ~~~ }<{{{{o> ~~~ }<(((((o>

[2pods]

"Diorite" > wrote in message
...
> In article >,
> Gill Passman > wrote:
>
>> The idea is to lift it and slip wheels under it - these are metal bars
>> with wheels on (sorry don't know the technical name)..and then wheel it
>> across the room to it's temporary position. I will then refill it with
>> the water from the tubs. We might leave the wheels under it to make it
>> easier when the fish eventually get transferred to the new tank which
>> has arrived at the LFS (yippee).
>
> Are you talking about refrigerator casters? They come as a pair. Each is
> a metal bar with a bogey of tiny rollers at either end.
>
> If that is what you are talking about, they can certainly handle the
> weight. But FYI they are a little balky when turning.
>
> --
> First sniggle: Feb 13, 1996
> This e-mail address is rarely read. Spam is such a nuisance.

I wouldn't fancy using wheels as small as that on carpet, though IIRC Gill
is moving her tank in/out of her conservatory .

Peter

[Gill Passman]

2pods wrote:
> "Diorite" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>In article >,
>>Gill Passman > wrote:
>>
>>
>>>The idea is to lift it and slip wheels under it - these are metal bars
>>>with wheels on (sorry don't know the technical name)..and then wheel it
>>>across the room to it's temporary position. I will then refill it with
>>>the water from the tubs. We might leave the wheels under it to make it
>>>easier when the fish eventually get transferred to the new tank which
>>>has arrived at the LFS (yippee).
>>
>>Are you talking about refrigerator casters? They come as a pair. Each is
>>a metal bar with a bogey of tiny rollers at either end.
>>
>>If that is what you are talking about, they can certainly handle the
>>weight. But FYI they are a little balky when turning.
>>
>>--
>>First sniggle: Feb 13, 1996
>>This e-mail address is rarely read. Spam is such a nuisance.
>
>
> I wouldn't fancy using wheels as small as that on carpet, though IIRC Gill
> is moving her tank in/out of her conservatory .
>
> Peter
>
>
Actually just across the conservatory - floor is laminate. Can't
exactly remember the size of the wheels but they weren't tiny....

Gill

[2pods]

"Gill Passman" > wrote in message
.. .
> 2pods wrote:
>> "Diorite" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>
>>>In article >,
>>>Gill Passman > wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>The idea is to lift it and slip wheels under it - these are metal bars
>>>>with wheels on (sorry don't know the technical name)..and then wheel it
>>>>across the room to it's temporary position. I will then refill it with
>>>>the water from the tubs. We might leave the wheels under it to make it
>>>>easier when the fish eventually get transferred to the new tank which
>>>>has arrived at the LFS (yippee).
>>>
>>>Are you talking about refrigerator casters? They come as a pair. Each is
>>>a metal bar with a bogey of tiny rollers at either end.
>>>
>>>If that is what you are talking about, they can certainly handle the
>>>weight. But FYI they are a little balky when turning.
>>>
>>>--
>>>First sniggle: Feb 13, 1996
>>>This e-mail address is rarely read. Spam is such a nuisance.
>>
>>
>> I wouldn't fancy using wheels as small as that on carpet, though IIRC
>> Gill is moving her tank in/out of her conservatory .
>>
>> Peter
> Actually just across the conservatory - floor is laminate. Can't exactly
> remember the size of the wheels but they weren't tiny....
>
> Gill

They'll be fine on laminate :-)

I remember when we first moved in, trying to wheel the fridge across a
carpet with them...no go.

Peter

[Gill Passman]

Gill Passman wrote:
> LM wrote:
>
>> we are doing some serious rearrangement of furniture, and one thing
>> that will have to move is my 37gal tank.
>>
>> I know I'm supposed to empty the tank completely before moving it...
>> but the tank is heavily planted, lots of fast-moving loaches and
>> invisible otos (they are in there. I just don't see them, and I have
>> no idea how many are in there) that I pretty much will not be able to
>> catch them and relocate them while moving, without stressing them out
>> so much or injuring or killing them accidentally... I've got many b.
>> sidthemunki's where the professionals (the LFS) took good 10min trying
>> to catch them in an empty tank. if it takes him that long, I dont'
>> even want to know how long it'll take me to get them all out!
>>
>> so.. I'm thinking about draining the tank most of the way, may be leave
>> 1-2" of water (just enough that the fish won't die) and then move it..
>> carefully...
>>
>> I know, not a great solution... but I'm trying to plan this out as
>> best as I can (like calling LFS to ask if they have the same tank in
>> stock or how quickly I can get hold of a replacement so if it does
>> spring a leak, or breaks, I can replace it.. and yes, at that point, it
>> will become an overhaul job), etc...
>> any other tips??
>>
>> linda
>>
>
> Thanks for posting this Linda. It looks like there are quite a few of us
> pondering on the same issue...
>
> Gill

Pleased to report that mine is moved too - I took out two thirds of the
water and all the ornaments (except the Plec's driftwood). In the end we
shuffled it across the room - an option as it is a laminate floor - we
could never have done it with carpet or tiles...glad it wasn't my back
doing the push/pull stuff...

Next step is building the cabinet for the new tank...

Gill

[Kurt]

Gill Passman > wrote in
:

> Pleased to report that mine is moved too - I took out two thirds
> of the water and all the ornaments (except the Plec's driftwood).
> In the end we shuffled it across the room - an option as it is a
> laminate floor - we could never have done it with carpet or
> tiles...glad it wasn't my back doing the push/pull stuff...
>

Heh! I suppose that it's like things that are funny: it's funny if it
happens to someone else. Seriously, glad to hear that the move went
well and that no backs were injured in the process.


> Next step is building the cabinet for the new tank...
>
>

And that brings up a whole new topic of ideas, yes?

--
Cheers,
Kurt

[Gill Passman]

Kurt wrote:
> Gill Passman > wrote in
> :
>
>
>>Pleased to report that mine is moved too - I took out two thirds
>>of the water and all the ornaments (except the Plec's driftwood).
>>In the end we shuffled it across the room - an option as it is a
>>laminate floor - we could never have done it with carpet or
>>tiles...glad it wasn't my back doing the push/pull stuff...
>>
>
>
> Heh! I suppose that it's like things that are funny: it's funny if it
> happens to someone else. Seriously, glad to hear that the move went
> well and that no backs were injured in the process.
>
>
>
>>Next step is building the cabinet for the new tank...
>>
>>
>
>
> And that brings up a whole new topic of ideas, yes?
>

I already have a slipped disc in my back so I'm quite sensitive to this
problem and take it seriously...however, I do think lifting the tank
onto wheels would have caused a lot more strain...

The plans for the cabinet are well advanced....I will take pics because
I intend setting up some sort of website on the progress...the
interesting part at the moment is the lid and the lighting....still no
decisions made as yet...

It's an exciting project - <g>

Gill

[Jürgen Exner]

Gill Passman wrote:
> I already have a slipped disc in my back so I'm quite sensitive to
> this problem and take it seriously...however, I do think lifting the
> tank onto wheels would have caused a lot more strain...

Well, I think it's more a matter of using the proper equipment. If you want
to lift a tank (even if it's just a tiny bit to slip e.g. those moving disks
underneath) then don't do it like lifting a bucket of water.
Use a lever. Can't find a point where to hook it to? Use some wedges to
create a little gap. Or use your car jack to lift the stand a few
millimeters. Open the doors and wedge the jack between floor and upper door
frame. Still too strenuous? Well, use a hydraulic jack with a hydraulic
pump. Or or or.
There are many ways how you can lift something heavy without any significant
strain on your body.
It just depends on how much you want to or think you need to invest to
protect your health.

jue

[NetMax]

"Gill Passman" > wrote in message
.. .
> Kurt wrote:
>> Gill Passman > wrote in
>> :
<snip>

> the interesting part at the moment is the lid and the lighting....still
> no decisions made as yet...
>
> It's an exciting project - <g>
>
> Gill

I'm approaching that stage as well. What have you narrowed your choices
down to (if you don't mind my asking)? Didn't your new tank come with a
canopy?
--
www.NetMax.tk

[Kurt]

"Jürgen Exner" > wrote in
news:F%PCf.1474$Ix.1148@trnddc07:

> Gill Passman wrote:
>> I already have a slipped disc in my back so I'm quite sensitive
>> to this problem and take it seriously...however, I do think
>> lifting the tank onto wheels would have caused a lot more
>> strain...
>
> Well, I think it's more a matter of using the proper equipment. If
> you want to lift a tank (even if it's just a tiny bit to slip e.g.
> those moving disks underneath) then don't do it like lifting a
> bucket of water. Use a lever. Can't find a point where to hook it
> to? Use some wedges to create a little gap. Or use your car jack
> to lift the stand a few millimeters. Open the doors and wedge the
> jack between floor and upper door frame. Still too strenuous?
> Well, use a hydraulic jack with a hydraulic pump. Or or or.
> There are many ways how you can lift something heavy without any
> significant strain on your body.
> It just depends on how much you want to or think you need to
> invest to protect your health.
>
>

All good points, Jurgen (sorry no umlauts). Too many times people will
rush into a project without considering all of the options. When it
comes to moving things, I take the "extra" time to make it as easy on
me and my back as I can.


--
Cheers,
Kurt

[Gill Passman]

NetMax wrote:
> "Gill Passman" > wrote in message
> .. .
>
>>Kurt wrote:
>>
>>>Gill Passman > wrote in
:
>
> <snip>
>
>>the interesting part at the moment is the lid and the lighting....still
>>no decisions made as yet...
>>
>>It's an exciting project - <g>
>>
>>Gill
>
>
> I'm approaching that stage as well. What have you narrowed your choices
> down to (if you don't mind my asking)? Didn't your new tank come with a
> canopy?

The new tank has just come with sliding glass on the top - no canopy. We
decided against as we want it to match the unit that we build to put it
on - still in the planning stages...ie - haven't got a clue yet - lol

[NetMax]

"Gill Passman" > wrote in message
.. .
> NetMax wrote:
>> "Gill Passman" > wrote in message
>> .. .
>>
>>>Kurt wrote:
>>>
>>>>Gill Passman > wrote in
:
>>
>> <snip>
>>
>>>the interesting part at the moment is the lid and the
>>>lighting....still no decisions made as yet...
>>>
>>>It's an exciting project - <g>
>>>
>>>Gill
>>
>>
>> I'm approaching that stage as well. What have you narrowed your
>> choices down to (if you don't mind my asking)? Didn't your new tank
>> come with a canopy?
>
> The new tank has just come with sliding glass on the top - no canopy.
> We decided against as we want it to match the unit that we build to put
> it on - still in the planning stages...ie - haven't got a clue yet -
> lol


As long as you're building the stand from scratch, I have a few ideas (so
what else is new ;~), but I'm starting a new thread.
--
www.NetMax.tk

[Daniel Morrow]

Mid posted.
Jürgen Exner wrote:
> Gill Passman wrote:
>> I already have a slipped disc in my back so I'm quite sensitive to
>> this problem and take it seriously...however, I do think lifting the
>> tank onto wheels would have caused a lot more strain...
>
> Well, I think it's more a matter of using the proper equipment. If
> you want to lift a tank (even if it's just a tiny bit to slip e.g.
> those moving disks underneath) then don't do it like lifting a bucket
> of water.
> Use a lever. Can't find a point where to hook it to? Use some wedges
> to create a little gap. Or use your car jack to lift the stand a few
> millimeters. Open the doors and wedge the jack between floor and
> upper door frame. Still too strenuous? Well, use a hydraulic jack
> with a hydraulic pump. Or or or.
> There are many ways how you can lift something heavy without any
> significant strain on your body.

That's very true - my other friend Nick lifted some big logs into the back
of a truck while I was inside resting and I came out and saw the results and
couldn't believe it. I am bigger but about the same strength as him and I
couldn't do it before. I asked him how he did it and without damaging his
back, and he said briefly - "leverage"! Smarts can do more than strength all
the time, just be careful and use your noodle! Good luck and later!


> It just depends on how much you want to or think you need to invest to
> protect your health.
>
> jue