Algae, algae everywhere!

[eskimoigloo]

My setup has been running for about a month now, and I am having
problems with 2 types of algae:

1) a fluorescent green algae on the glass and coral gravel (seems to be
subsiding this past week) is this slime algae? caused by high
silicates?

2) a hairy green algae which in well established plots buds into tiny
fluorescent green sausage shaped things. Is this caused by high
nitrates/phospahtes?

It is a 37 (UK) gallon tank running a home made protein skimmer (really
drags out a lot of green slime), 2 external filters containing the
usual stuff plus Purigen, Phosguard, and Nitrasorb. My temp is around
25 C (78 F I think???) My Sg is 1.023 (stable) my Ph is between 8.2 -
8.4 (somewhere in between the 2 colours on the test kit but stable), My
nitrates and nitrites usually read 0, with an occasional 0.2ppm
Ammonia. My Phosphates at last test were 0.1ppm (after having Phosguard
in for a week where it was previously 1ppm). I have a blue actinic
light (T8) on for 15 hours a day, and 2 T5 marine whits on for 8 hours
a day, it has no direct sunlight.

I have 2 humbug damsels, a red star, and 5 blue leg hermits.

The fluro green stuff seems to be subsiding, but the hairy algae just
keeps coming back! I keep brusing my live rock with a soft bristled
brush which brings all but the fluro green buds off and within 2 - 3
hours there are tiny hairs again... what else can I do!!!!????????

Thanks, Chris.

[Mark Henry]

eskimoigloo wrote:
>
> The fluro green stuff seems to be subsiding, but the hairy algae just
> keeps coming back! I keep brusing my live rock with a soft bristled
> brush which brings all but the fluro green buds off and within 2 - 3
> hours there are tiny hairs again... what else can I do!!!!????????
>

I know that some people are going to argue with this, but IMHO the
growth of algae is normal, and for many desireable.

You're probably going to get several recommendations for some type of
filter, RO/DI system, or chemical means to control or eradiate the algae
"problem" you've got. Personally, I'd rather do it naturally by adding
more critters that eat it.

You've got a good start with the blue legs, but since they're small you
might want to double that number or add some scarlet reef hermit crabs
and a few snails (nassarius and turbo come to mind). That's my
preference for "handling" algae. Now, keep in mind that the algae is
going to keep coming back - it's a weed and that's what it does (grow);
but that's fine, the critters will keep eating it.

I'm running a 65g tank with 90# of live rock and 80# of substrate. In it
I have:

2 Banded Coral Shrimps - Medium
15 Nassarius Snails
30 Dwarf Blue Leg Hermit Crabs
2 Emerald Crabs
15 Astraea Turbo Snails
3 Peppermint Shrimps
20 Scarlet Reef Hermit Crabs
3 Queen Conchs - Aquacultured

1 Hawaiian Yellow Tang, small
2 Percula clown fish, small

It sounds like alot for the cleanup crew, but there's lots of rock cover
for them to feed on and I waited until everything was well in growth
before adding them. In addition, it's important to remember that the
smaller crabs and snails have a relatively short live span (6mo-2yr).

hth,

mark h

[eskimoigloo]

Thanks, other than the phosguard, nitrasorb and purigen, i am not
willing to put any algae fighting chemicals in my tank! I don't mind a
bit of algae, but as it is, it has stopped the light getting to my
rocks, and they have all gone either white or brown! Very little coral,
or coloured algae left :-( I was under the impression it was still
too early in the tank's life to add much more wildlife... or am I ok
with things like crabs/shrimps etc.?

[Roy]

I like having a bit of algae on the glass and here and there in a tank
as well.....So if your usuing compounds to remove phosphates and such
and perhaps usuing RODI water, what is your lighting schedule. A lot
of times lights prove to be more of a cause than nutrients in
water........I don;t know if its true or not, but a lot of places told
me that if I used a 50/50 light setup, that the actinic bulb sections
or bulb should be placed closest to the tanks front glass as its
spectrum does not aid or support algae growth like the daylight
spectrum does.......If its already cycled and no more spikes I would
not beafraid of introducing cirtters a little at a time......you
should be fine with adding shrimp crabs or snails. Just take it easy
on clean up crews to start with. Lots of folks go overboard and
overstock clean up crews, only to have the majority of the crew starve
later on when they run out of food after they get the algae etc under
control.....
On 22 Jan 2006 06:06:39 -0800, "eskimoigloo"
> wrote:
>><>Thanks, other than the phosguard, nitrasorb and purigen, i am not
>><>willing to put any algae fighting chemicals in my tank! I don't mind a
>><>bit of algae, but as it is, it has stopped the light getting to my
>><>rocks, and they have all gone either white or brown! Very little coral,
>><>or coloured algae left :-( I was under the impression it was still
>><>too early in the tank's life to add much more wildlife... or am I ok
>><>with things like crabs/shrimps etc.?

--
\\\|///
( @ @ )
-----------oOOo(_)oOOo---------------


oooO
---------( )----Oooo----------------
\ ( ( )
\_) ) /
(_/
The original frugal ponder! Koi-ahoi mates....

[TheRock]

Correct me if I am wrong but I would get rid of the Nitrasorb.
I thought it was for fresh water only.
Considering the way a tank cycles, this would most likely throw the cycle
off....YES ? NO ?


"eskimoigloo" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> Thanks, other than the phosguard, nitrasorb and purigen, i am not
> willing to put any algae fighting chemicals in my tank! I don't mind a
> bit of algae, but as it is, it has stopped the light getting to my
> rocks, and they have all gone either white or brown! Very little coral,
> or coloured algae left :-( I was under the impression it was still
> too early in the tank's life to add much more wildlife... or am I ok
> with things like crabs/shrimps etc.?
>

[miskairal]

I'm sure I'm not one to go by as I have had a similar problem and am
very new to this but it seems that most people think this is normal for
a new tank. The hair algae in mine is just starting to subside (I hope
I'm not imagining it) and I added live rock in October and the algae
started in November. Can you pick out the algae with tweezers, pincers
or something rather than scrub the rock and remove any signs of life it
may still have? It's very time consuming but I still have lots of growth
on my rock. It's easier too if you keep a dish of freshwater beside the
tank to dip the tweezers in to remove the algae from them.

When you say you have 2 external filters containing the usual stuff,
what do you mean? Most seem to recommend to have nothing in any filters
b/c it causes nutrient problems. Let the rock and the skimmer do the work.

Lights on for 15 hours seems a bit excessive compared to what I have
read also. If all your coral is gone then maybe it wouldn't hurt to cut
the lights right back to something like 6 hours a day and gradually
build up again after the algae is gone or decreased.

eskimoigloo wrote:
> My setup has been running for about a month now, and I am having
> problems with 2 types of algae:
>
> 1) a fluorescent green algae on the glass and coral gravel (seems to be
> subsiding this past week) is this slime algae? caused by high
> silicates?
>
> 2) a hairy green algae which in well established plots buds into tiny
> fluorescent green sausage shaped things. Is this caused by high
> nitrates/phospahtes?
>
> It is a 37 (UK) gallon tank running a home made protein skimmer (really
> drags out a lot of green slime), 2 external filters containing the
> usual stuff plus Purigen, Phosguard, and Nitrasorb. My temp is around
> 25 C (78 F I think???) My Sg is 1.023 (stable) my Ph is between 8.2 -
> 8.4 (somewhere in between the 2 colours on the test kit but stable), My
> nitrates and nitrites usually read 0, with an occasional 0.2ppm
> Ammonia. My Phosphates at last test were 0.1ppm (after having Phosguard
> in for a week where it was previously 1ppm). I have a blue actinic
> light (T8) on for 15 hours a day, and 2 T5 marine whits on for 8 hours
> a day, it has no direct sunlight.
>
> I have 2 humbug damsels, a red star, and 5 blue leg hermits.
>
> The fluro green stuff seems to be subsiding, but the hairy algae just
> keeps coming back! I keep brusing my live rock with a soft bristled
> brush which brings all but the fluro green buds off and within 2 - 3
> hours there are tiny hairs again... what else can I do!!!!????????
>
> Thanks, Chris.
>

[Jaime R-S]

Hello from Florida;
What you are experiencing after a month is totally normal. Algae blooms
are natural and in an enclosed system the cause is only one, PO4. You see,
Phosphorous and Nitrogen are limiting factors in the wild, that means they
are not abundant yet necessary for normal development of plants, and animals
thereof.
Once your system establishes a good Nitrogen cycle, anaerobic bacteria
and nitrification will get rid of the excess N. With P there is a different
story. They are needed for ATP(energy) and Nucleic Acid (DNA). They will
be consumed in great amounts but will also be released in considerable
amounts. You add it to the water in the form of food; whereas the fish and
invertebrates returns it to the tank in droppings. A good P cycle is
difficult to achieve becuase it cannot be converted into a gas like when
amonnia NH4 (amonnia) is released. Also, N is used in many other forms not
in any vital process like in the case of P.
Having said that, lets make it clear that the PO4 problem is completely
normal so you'll have to learn how to deal with it.
How do I deal with it? I can't say much because my prototype filter is
still under testing but I will say enough to give you a solution or at least
guide you in the right path. Droppings, decomposed fish (remains from dead
fish fed to anemones etc..) become part of the sustrate and slowly released
into the water column. The element P will be in the form of PO4 and
available to plants. So, the only side effect of having excess PO4 is the
availability of a normally limiting element to plant in large amounts (more
than 1 mg/L is undesireable). This will cause an algae bloom that will
damage your coral and the aesthetics of your contained piece of ocean. The
best way to remove P from your system is not by adding an algae eater
because they will return P to the system in droppings. The best way is to
grow (I do it separately in a small tank connected to the outflow of the
tank) algae and plants and periodically harvest them. This secondary tank
or Phosphate sink is well lit and maintained as the main tank. Harvesting
plants is not enough, you'll need some help from phosphate fixating media, I
use ROWAphos. This media is not chemicals added to the system. They
basically work as precipitating agents. It contains Aluminum Silicate which
mixes great with PO4 holding it in the pouch. I am totally opposed to
adding chemicals to my system and share your position about it. My system
utilizing natural alternative to conventional options has worked fine for
seven months now without a water change. I even grow Artemia (sea monkeys)
in them which serve as food to my anemone. With the secondary tank I am
able to have two Blenis of different sexes. I am about to move the entire
prototype tank to a bigger one with some modifications both to my bio-filter
and my mech-filter. This second tank will be a 100 gals (US) extended tanks
included.
In summary, grow plants and get to the habbit of harvesting algae, make
it a weekly deal. Also, incorporate a P precipitation agent like ROWAphos.
Last thing, before you go crazy making changes to the system, let it reach a
Nitrogen equilibrium. Go to your nearest library and buy a book on Marine
Ecology, I suggest Nibakken
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/offer-listing/0805345825/qid=1137965422/ref=sr_pb_a//104-9821915-5919920?condition=all)
Your LSF books should only be addressed for simple fixes. More complicated
ones, leave it to the experts. lol, yes, I am a Coastal Marine Biologist.

Cheers

jrs
"eskimoigloo" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> My setup has been running for about a month now, and I am having
> problems with 2 types of algae:
>
> 1) a fluorescent green algae on the glass and coral gravel (seems to be
> subsiding this past week) is this slime algae? caused by high
> silicates?
>
> 2) a hairy green algae which in well established plots buds into tiny
> fluorescent green sausage shaped things. Is this caused by high
> nitrates/phospahtes?
>
> It is a 37 (UK) gallon tank running a home made protein skimmer (really
> drags out a lot of green slime), 2 external filters containing the
> usual stuff plus Purigen, Phosguard, and Nitrasorb. My temp is around
> 25 C (78 F I think???) My Sg is 1.023 (stable) my Ph is between 8.2 -
> 8.4 (somewhere in between the 2 colours on the test kit but stable), My
> nitrates and nitrites usually read 0, with an occasional 0.2ppm
> Ammonia. My Phosphates at last test were 0.1ppm (after having Phosguard
> in for a week where it was previously 1ppm). I have a blue actinic
> light (T8) on for 15 hours a day, and 2 T5 marine whits on for 8 hours
> a day, it has no direct sunlight.
>
> I have 2 humbug damsels, a red star, and 5 blue leg hermits.
>
> The fluro green stuff seems to be subsiding, but the hairy algae just
> keeps coming back! I keep brusing my live rock with a soft bristled
> brush which brings all but the fluro green buds off and within 2 - 3
> hours there are tiny hairs again... what else can I do!!!!????????
>
> Thanks, Chris.
>

[Michael Lawford]

I completely agree with Mark - after a few months the algae will lesson but
it is not a problem as such. Just add some more things that will eat it...

~m

"Mark Henry" > wrote in message
...
> eskimoigloo wrote:
>>
>> The fluro green stuff seems to be subsiding, but the hairy algae just
>> keeps coming back! I keep brusing my live rock with a soft bristled
>> brush which brings all but the fluro green buds off and within 2 - 3
>> hours there are tiny hairs again... what else can I do!!!!????????
>>
>
> I know that some people are going to argue with this, but IMHO the growth
> of algae is normal, and for many desireable.
>
> You're probably going to get several recommendations for some type of
> filter, RO/DI system, or chemical means to control or eradiate the algae
> "problem" you've got. Personally, I'd rather do it naturally by adding
> more critters that eat it.
>
> You've got a good start with the blue legs, but since they're small you
> might want to double that number or add some scarlet reef hermit crabs and
> a few snails (nassarius and turbo come to mind). That's my preference for
> "handling" algae. Now, keep in mind that the algae is going to keep coming
> back - it's a weed and that's what it does (grow); but that's fine, the
> critters will keep eating it.
>
> I'm running a 65g tank with 90# of live rock and 80# of substrate. In it I
> have:
>
> 2 Banded Coral Shrimps - Medium
> 15 Nassarius Snails
> 30 Dwarf Blue Leg Hermit Crabs
> 2 Emerald Crabs
> 15 Astraea Turbo Snails
> 3 Peppermint Shrimps
> 20 Scarlet Reef Hermit Crabs
> 3 Queen Conchs - Aquacultured
>
> 1 Hawaiian Yellow Tang, small
> 2 Percula clown fish, small
>
> It sounds like alot for the cleanup crew, but there's lots of rock cover
> for them to feed on and I waited until everything was well in growth
> before adding them. In addition, it's important to remember that the
> smaller crabs and snails have a relatively short live span (6mo-2yr).
>
> hth,
>
> mark h
>
>

[Wayne Sallee]

Correct. It is only for fresh water.

Wayne Sallee
Wayne's Pets



TheRock wrote on 1/22/2006 12:01 PM:
> Correct me if I am wrong but I would get rid of the Nitrasorb.
> I thought it was for fresh water only.
> Considering the way a tank cycles, this would most likely throw the cycle
> off....YES ? NO ?
>
>
> "eskimoigloo" > wrote in message
> oups.com...
>
>>Thanks, other than the phosguard, nitrasorb and purigen, i am not
>>willing to put any algae fighting chemicals in my tank! I don't mind a
>>bit of algae, but as it is, it has stopped the light getting to my
>>rocks, and they have all gone either white or brown! Very little coral,
>>or coloured algae left :-( I was under the impression it was still
>>too early in the tank's life to add much more wildlife... or am I ok
>>with things like crabs/shrimps etc.?
>>
>
>
>

[Wayne Sallee]

Jaime R-S wrote on 1/22/2006 4:32 PM:
> Your LSF books should only be addressed for simple fixes. More complicated
> ones, leave it to the experts. lol, yes, I am a Coastal Marine Biologist.
>

And the Biologists that think they know more than the any
hobyist don't know what Phosguard is :-)

Wayne Sallee
Wayne's Pets

[Jaime R-S]

Say what?
BTW, we are the same species, some of us went to college!

jrs
"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
...
> Jaime R-S wrote on 1/22/2006 4:32 PM:
>> Your LSF books should only be addressed for simple fixes. More
>> complicated ones, leave it to the experts. lol, yes, I am a Coastal
>> Marine Biologist.
>>
>
> And the Biologists that think they know more than the any hobyist don't
> know what Phosguard is :-)
>
> Wayne Sallee
> Wayne's Pets
>

[TheRock]

I think somebody needs a time out.



"Jaime R-S" > wrote in message
...
> Say what?
> BTW, we are the same species, some of us went to college!
>
> jrs
> "Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Jaime R-S wrote on 1/22/2006 4:32 PM:
>>> Your LSF books should only be addressed for simple fixes. More
>>> complicated ones, leave it to the experts. lol, yes, I am a Coastal
>>> Marine Biologist.
>>>
>>
>> And the Biologists that think they know more than the any hobyist don't
>> know what Phosguard is :-)
>>
>> Wayne Sallee
>> Wayne's Pets
>>
>
>

[miskairal]

I agree Rock. I like to think of us as a more friendly group than some
of the others I visit and it's a shame to see it deteriorate like this.
I've really tried to stay out of it (a few beers tonight so can't
shutup) but you both have plenty to contribute here so why not just
agree to disagree? Pleeeaaase.


TheRock wrote:
> I think somebody needs a time out.
>
>
>
> "Jaime R-S" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>Say what?
>>BTW, we are the same species, some of us went to college!
>>
>>jrs
>>"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
...
>>
>>>Jaime R-S wrote on 1/22/2006 4:32 PM:
>>>
>>>>Your LSF books should only be addressed for simple fixes. More
>>>>complicated ones, leave it to the experts. lol, yes, I am a Coastal
>>>>Marine Biologist.
>>>>
>>>
>>>And the Biologists that think they know more than the any hobyist don't
>>>know what Phosguard is :-)
>>>
>>>Wayne Sallee
>>>Wayne's Pets

>>
>>
>
>

[TheRock]

Beer is good ! Have you tried the Sam Adams Winter Brew ?
Good Stuff.

I think I'm going to post a new "What's the best salt to use?" thread.
I like those !

"miskairal" <mehiding@Oz> wrote in message
u...
>I agree Rock. I like to think of us as a more friendly group than some of
>the others I visit and it's a shame to see it deteriorate like this. I've
>really tried to stay out of it (a few beers tonight so can't shutup) but
>you both have plenty to contribute here so why not just agree to disagree?
>Pleeeaaase.
>
>
> TheRock wrote:
>> I think somebody needs a time out.
>>
>>
>>
>> "Jaime R-S" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>
>>>Say what?
>>>BTW, we are the same species, some of us went to college!
>>>
>>>jrs
>>>"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
...
>>>
>>>>Jaime R-S wrote on 1/22/2006 4:32 PM:
>>>>
>>>>>Your LSF books should only be addressed for simple fixes. More
>>>>>complicated ones, leave it to the experts. lol, yes, I am a Coastal
>>>>>Marine Biologist.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>And the Biologists that think they know more than the any hobyist don't
>>>>know what Phosguard is :-)
>>>>
>>>>Wayne Sallee
>>>>Wayne's Pets

>>>
>>>
>>

[miskairal]

Is that an American beer? I tell you what is one of the best beers I've
ever tasted apart from our local 4x (XXXX) here in Queensland is the
beer brewed in Vanuatu called Tusker.

Wait a week to start a salt thread again, we've got let them recover
from the last one first ;)

TheRock wrote:
> Beer is good ! Have you tried the Sam Adams Winter Brew ?
> Good Stuff.
>
> I think I'm going to post a new "What's the best salt to use?" thread.
> I like those !
>
> "miskairal" <mehiding@Oz> wrote in message
> u...
>
>>I agree Rock. I like to think of us as a more friendly group than some of
>>the others I visit and it's a shame to see it deteriorate like this. I've
>>really tried to stay out of it (a few beers tonight so can't shutup) but
>>you both have plenty to contribute here so why not just agree to disagree?
>>Pleeeaaase.
>>
>>
>>TheRock wrote:
>>
>>>I think somebody needs a time out.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>"Jaime R-S" > wrote in message
...
>>>
>>>
>>>>Say what?
>>>>BTW, we are the same species, some of us went to college!
>>>>
>>>>jrs
>>>>"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Jaime R-S wrote on 1/22/2006 4:32 PM:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Your LSF books should only be addressed for simple fixes. More
>>>>>>complicated ones, leave it to the experts. lol, yes, I am a Coastal
>>>>>>Marine Biologist.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>And the Biologists that think they know more than the any hobyist don't
>>>>>know what Phosguard is :-)
>>>>>
>>>>>Wayne Sallee
>>>>>Wayne's Pets

>>>>
>>>>
>

[[email protected]]

On Tue, 24 Jan 2006 10:56:51 GMT, "TheRock" > wrote:

>Beer is good ! Have you tried the Sam Adams Winter Brew ?
>Good Stuff.
>
>I think I'm going to post a new "What's the best salt to use?" thread.
>I like those !
>
Hello Rock,

Unless someone comes up with a better idea, as far as I am aware I.O.
is the cheapest, and if it is as good as the others, why pay more ?

Regards, Fishnut.


>"miskairal" <mehiding@Oz> wrote in message
u...
>>I agree Rock. I like to think of us as a more friendly group than some of
>>the others I visit and it's a shame to see it deteriorate like this. I've
>>really tried to stay out of it (a few beers tonight so can't shutup) but
>>you both have plenty to contribute here so why not just agree to disagree?
>>Pleeeaaase.
>>
>>
>> TheRock wrote:
>>> I think somebody needs a time out.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> "Jaime R-S" > wrote in message
>>> ...
>>>
>>>>Say what?
>>>>BTW, we are the same species, some of us went to college!
>>>>
>>>>jrs
>>>>"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
...
>>>>
>>>>>Jaime R-S wrote on 1/22/2006 4:32 PM:
>>>>>
>>>>>>Your LSF books should only be addressed for simple fixes. More
>>>>>>complicated ones, leave it to the experts. lol, yes, I am a Coastal
>>>>>>Marine Biologist.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>And the Biologists that think they know more than the any hobyist don't
>>>>>know what Phosguard is :-)
>>>>>
>>>>>Wayne Sallee
>>>>>Wayne's Pets

>>>>
>>>>
>>>

[Jaime R-S]

Agree

jrs
"miskairal" <mehiding@Oz> wrote in message
u...
>I agree Rock. I like to think of us as a more friendly group than some of
>the others I visit and it's a shame to see it deteriorate like this. I've
>really tried to stay out of it (a few beers tonight so can't shutup) but
>you both have plenty to contribute here so why not just agree to disagree?
>Pleeeaaase.
>
>
> TheRock wrote:
>> I think somebody needs a time out.
>>
>>
>>
>> "Jaime R-S" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>
>>>Say what?
>>>BTW, we are the same species, some of us went to college!
>>>
>>>jrs
>>>"Wayne Sallee" > wrote in message
...
>>>
>>>>Jaime R-S wrote on 1/22/2006 4:32 PM:
>>>>
>>>>>Your LSF books should only be addressed for simple fixes. More
>>>>>complicated ones, leave it to the experts. lol, yes, I am a Coastal
>>>>>Marine Biologist.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>And the Biologists that think they know more than the any hobyist don't
>>>>know what Phosguard is :-)
>>>>
>>>>Wayne Sallee
>>>>Wayne's Pets

>>>
>>>
>>

[Boomer]

", I use ROWAphos. This media is not chemicals added to the system. They
basically work as precipitating agents. It contains Aluminum Silicate which
mixes great with PO4 holding it in the pouch. "

No it is not a Aluminum Silicate but a Granular Ferric Oxide (GFO), a Iron Oxide Hydroxide
( FeO(OH) ). The Aluminum PO4 removers are Aluminum Oxide (AlO2), a ceramic (Alumina),
which do release some Al, which is not a good thing for inverts, especially some soft
corals. You are confused about what a Aluminum Silicate is, which are things like.,
Zeolites, clay minerals, which are ion exchangers and minerals Topaz etc..

--
Boomer

If You See Me Running You Better Catch-Up

Former US Army Bomb Technician (EOD)
Member; IABTI, NATEODA, WEODF, ISEE & IPS

Want to talk chemistry ? The Reef Chemistry Forum
http://www.reefcentral.com/vbulletin/index.php

Want to See More ! The Coral Realm
http://www.coralrealm.com

[Jaime R-S]

Well, you got me there, I just shot out of the holster without checking
first. My bad!

jrs
"Boomer" > wrote in message
...
> ", I use ROWAphos. This media is not chemicals added to the system. They
> basically work as precipitating agents. It contains Aluminum Silicate
> which
> mixes great with PO4 holding it in the pouch. "
>
> No it is not a Aluminum Silicate but a Granular Ferric Oxide (GFO), a Iron
> Oxide Hydroxide
> ( FeO(OH) ). The Aluminum PO4 removers are Aluminum Oxide (AlO2), a
> ceramic (Alumina),
> which do release some Al, which is not a good thing for inverts,
> especially some soft
> corals. You are confused about what a Aluminum Silicate is, which are
> things like.,
> Zeolites, clay minerals, which are ion exchangers and minerals Topaz etc..
>
> --
> Boomer
>
> If You See Me Running You Better Catch-Up
>
> Former US Army Bomb Technician (EOD)
> Member; IABTI, NATEODA, WEODF, ISEE & IPS
>
> Want to talk chemistry ? The Reef Chemistry Forum
> http://www.reefcentral.com/vbulletin/index.php
>
> Want to See More ! The Coral Realm
> http://www.coralrealm.com
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