RO Plant Set-Up

[Royce]

I love my little RO plant. Approx. $30 for the Rubbermaid trash can, a
couple of bucks for the spigot, and about $10 for the blocks, and I was
set!! I have a Kent float valve in the can, not expensive either. Here's a
pic:

http://www.stansrods.com/roplant.jpg

Good Luck,
Royce

[Kelly]

That looks good. I have a question though, how many tanks and how often do
you change your water to justify the setting rather than just buying the
water? I'm thinking maybe I don't do enough water changes :) 25% once a
month...

[Royce]

Ooops!! I meant to post the original as a response to "RO/DI setup" from Ct
Midnite. Sorry!!

I have a 90 gal with a 20 gal sump, and I do a 20% water change every two
weeks. My system also evaporates about two gal/day. For me it was worth
it. I bought several 5 gal water jugs, and going for water got old after a
few months. I use 20-25 gal/week, and I was going every two weeks. There's
not a source locally, so I was buying from one of those water machines at
Wal-Mart. I was concerned about the quality of the water, too. Also, the
cost and having to get change for the machine. If you're not needing a lot
of water, there are some cheaper and smaller alternatives that connect to
your faucet, then you can store it when it's not in use. I don't know much
about them, or about the quality of the water they produce. Maybe some of
the others that have experience with them can offer comments.
Royce

"Kelly" > wrote in message
news:YgIFb.783898$6C4.601692@pd7tw1no...
> That looks good. I have a question though, how many tanks and how often do
> you change your water to justify the setting rather than just buying the
> water? I'm thinking maybe I don't do enough water changes :) 25% once a
> month...
>
>

[Kelly]

So does it stay full automatically or do you just run it when it gets low?
I have been thinking about setting one up but I was worried that it would be
counter productive if the water sat in the can too long (like a week or
more)

kelly

[Marc Levenson]

Perfect! Just make sure that unit never freezes (assuming you have cold wintry
months.

Marc


Royce wrote:

> I love my little RO plant. Approx. $30 for the Rubbermaid trash can, a
> couple of bucks for the spigot, and about $10 for the blocks, and I was
> set!! I have a Kent float valve in the can, not expensive either. Here's a
> pic:
>
> http://www.stansrods.com/roplant.jpg
>
> Good Luck,
> Royce

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[Marc Levenson]

If you keep the water circulating with a powerhead, it will not be an issue of
stagnancy.

If you consider top-off water and water changes, the unit pays itself off very
quickly. And I always recommend the 100 gallon per day units because it takes
4.16g per hour. It sounds slow, but that is actually so practical when you get
yourself in an emergency. In case you didn't know I sell them from my site.

Marc


Kelly wrote:

> So does it stay full automatically or do you just run it when it gets low?
> I have been thinking about setting one up but I was worried that it would be
> counter productive if the water sat in the can too long (like a week or
> more)
>
> kelly

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[Marc Levenson]

Royce, can I borrow that picture for others to use as an example? Give me your
full name in email for photo-credit or as an emial link to contact you.

Marc


Royce wrote:

> I love my little RO plant. Approx. $30 for the Rubbermaid trash can, a
> couple of bucks for the spigot, and about $10 for the blocks, and I was
> set!! I have a Kent float valve in the can, not expensive either. Here's a
> pic:
>
> http://www.stansrods.com/roplant.jpg
>
> Good Luck,
> Royce

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[BR549]

That Kent float valve is awesome, bought one last week for the same purpose.
http://www.aquaticeco.com/aquatic1v1/itempg.icl?orderidentifier=ID1072146928093787A22&eflag=0&iteminfo4=0&itmid=4847&passitemid=4847

BR549

[Royce]

I have a Kent's float valve installed in my tank so that it shuts off
automatically. If you look at the picture, it's inside of the tank where
you see the blue tubing connect. Not very expensive, about $15. It works
with normal (up to about 90psi) water pressure. This is a great method, and
you'll always have a holding tank of RO/DI water. I haven't had any
problems with water sitting in mine. It's a 40 gallon can, and I use
approx. 20-25 gallons/week. If you need less water and you're concerned
about it sitting too long, buy a smaller container. You shouldn't have
problems with algae or impurities if the water is pure RO/DI. It probably
helps to have an air tight tank that doesn't let light penetrate. Mine is a
Rubbermaid Brute trash can and it works great. I once noticed a smell to my
kalkwasser and water change water, I think it was probably bacteria. I
drained the tank and let it fill again, and haven't had any problems since.
I've had my unit for almost two years, and the inside of the tank is always
spotless and it looks new. If you use the option of cleaning the tank with
any kind of bleach solution, rinse everything thoroughly, then rinse it some
more. I think the bleach poses a much greater risk to your inhabitants than
anything that could grow in your tank. Depending on the amount of water
needed, you don't need a high output system with a storage tank. Mine's
50gpd, and I just downgraded to 35gpd. Plenty for my needs. I really like
this method a lot better than having to make it as you need it. The
Rubbermaid can was approx. $35, the float valve was about $15, the spigot
was about $2, and the blocks were about $10. It was a great investment and
it took just a few minutes to set everything up. Probably a lot less time
than needed to make one batch of water change water. Hope this helps.
Royce

"Kelly" > wrote in message
news:dSJFb.792189$9l5.69211@pd7tw2no...
> So does it stay full automatically or do you just run it when it gets low?
> I have been thinking about setting one up but I was worried that it would
be
> counter productive if the water sat in the can too long (like a week or
> more)
>
> kelly
>
>

[Ct Midnite]

I haven't got mine yet. Coming today.

But the way I understand it there is an inlet for tap water and two
outlets, one for waste and one for the good water.

Where do you put the valve? I assumed you had to shut off the inlet
but what it looks like you all have done is shut off the outlet from
the good water. If so does that stop the waste from running too?

Ct Midnite

On Tue, 23 Dec 2003 06:21:57 GMT, "Royce" >
wrote:

>I have a Kent's float valve installed in my tank so that it shuts off
>automatically. If you look at the picture, it's inside of the tank where
>you see the blue tubing connect. Not very expensive, about $15. It works
>with normal (up to about 90psi) water pressure. This is a great method, and
>you'll always have a holding tank of RO/DI water. I haven't had any
>problems with water sitting in mine. It's a 40 gallon can, and I use
>approx. 20-25 gallons/week. If you need less water and you're concerned
>about it sitting too long, buy a smaller container. You shouldn't have
>problems with algae or impurities if the water is pure RO/DI. It probably
>helps to have an air tight tank that doesn't let light penetrate. Mine is a
>Rubbermaid Brute trash can and it works great. I once noticed a smell to my
>kalkwasser and water change water, I think it was probably bacteria. I
>drained the tank and let it fill again, and haven't had any problems since.
>I've had my unit for almost two years, and the inside of the tank is always
>spotless and it looks new. If you use the option of cleaning the tank with
>any kind of bleach solution, rinse everything thoroughly, then rinse it some
>more. I think the bleach poses a much greater risk to your inhabitants than
>anything that could grow in your tank. Depending on the amount of water
>needed, you don't need a high output system with a storage tank. Mine's
>50gpd, and I just downgraded to 35gpd. Plenty for my needs. I really like
>this method a lot better than having to make it as you need it. The
>Rubbermaid can was approx. $35, the float valve was about $15, the spigot
>was about $2, and the blocks were about $10. It was a great investment and
>it took just a few minutes to set everything up. Probably a lot less time
>than needed to make one batch of water change water. Hope this helps.
>Royce
>
>"Kelly" > wrote in message
>news:dSJFb.792189$9l5.69211@pd7tw2no...
>> So does it stay full automatically or do you just run it when it gets low?
>> I have been thinking about setting one up but I was worried that it would
>be
>> counter productive if the water sat in the can too long (like a week or
>> more)
>>
>> kelly
>>
>>
>


http://www.geocities.com/ctmidnite53/

[CapFusion]

"Ct Midnite" <mreef2.10.muffin@spamgourmet.(nospam)com> wrote in message
...
> I haven't got mine yet. Coming today.
>
> But the way I understand it there is an inlet for tap water and two
> outlets, one for waste and one for the good water.
>
> Where do you put the valve? I assumed you had to shut off the inlet
> but what it looks like you all have done is shut off the outlet from
> the good water. If so does that stop the waste from running too?
>
> Ct Midnite

Depending on how you set it up. If you have a resoviour or a pressurize
tank, it will stop when the pressure built up. Or if you do not have a
pressurize tank / resoviour and simple turn off either from the main valve
or have a manual valve of the blue line, it will stop. If like Royce with
the float valve, the valve will close when it reach the water level.

CapFusion,...

[Marc Levenson]

By closing the valve on the output of good RO/DI water line, the pressure in the
line will shut off the flow to the unit and the waste line will stop running.
It takes about 10 seconds for you to hear it become silent, and at that point it
is off.

It is the same with a pressurized tank, like CapFusion pointed out below.

Marc


CapFusion wrote:

> Depending on how you set it up. If you have a resoviour or a pressurize
> tank, it will stop when the pressure built up. Or if you do not have a
> pressurize tank / resoviour and simple turn off either from the main valve
> or have a manual valve of the blue line, it will stop. If like Royce with
> the float valve, the valve will close when it reach the water level.
>
> CapFusion,...

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[Ct Midnite]

Why is it ok to drink RO but not DI?

Ct Midnite



http://www.geocities.com/ctmidnite53/

[BR549]

This why we don't drink the DI water

http://www.finishing.com/138/06.html

[Royce]

If you need some help with the set-up, email me and I'll be glad to help
(remove the "dot" from the email address). It's really simple though. You
place the float valve at the maximum water level desired. Like Cap said,
when the water reaches the level of the float, it floats and stops the water
flow. Just like a toilet float valve, and you don't have to turn off the
water that feeds the unit. For the waste water, you either run the drain
line to a drain or somewhere to discard the water. Some like to save the
waste water to water plants. My unit is on my back porch, and the drain
line runs to a flower bed. The flowers like it!! Like Marc pointed out,
protect against freezing. I drain my unit during freezes or use a clamp-on
heat lamp pointed at the unit. Here's another pic that shows the location
of the float valve and the max water level (the level the float's mounted
at):

http://www.stansrods.com/roplant1.jpg


"Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
...
> By closing the valve on the output of good RO/DI water line, the pressure
in the
> line will shut off the flow to the unit and the waste line will stop
running.
> It takes about 10 seconds for you to hear it become silent, and at that
point it
> is off.
>
> It is the same with a pressurized tank, like CapFusion pointed out below.
>
> Marc
>
>
> CapFusion wrote:
>
> > Depending on how you set it up. If you have a resoviour or a pressurize
> > tank, it will stop when the pressure built up. Or if you do not have a
> > pressurize tank / resoviour and simple turn off either from the main
valve
> > or have a manual valve of the blue line, it will stop. If like Royce
with
> > the float valve, the valve will close when it reach the water level.
> >
> > CapFusion,...
>
> --
> Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
>
>

[Ct Midnite]

I'm a farmer and know all about float valves and such. I just
couldn't imagine how you could shut off the RO/DI output and have it
shut the whole thing down. I had visions of float switches and
electric shut off valves. None to cheap.

I've got it set up and running. Just filling buckets with the stove
timer right now. The fancy stuff later. :)

For those of you who don't have one of these things, the one from Marc
is very easy to install. It took me about 15 min to have it up and
running. Very simple. He includes virtually everything you need.

It's the coolest thing. You shut down the output and 10 sec later it
all stops running. It's got some kind of internal switch activated by
pressure from the output side.

There is even a outlet for just RO water if you want to use it for
yourself.

Thanks again Marc.

Ct Midnite

On Wed, 24 Dec 2003 06:59:22 GMT, "Royce" >
wrote:

>If you need some help with the set-up, email me and I'll be glad to help
>(remove the "dot" from the email address). It's really simple though. You
>place the float valve at the maximum water level desired. Like Cap said,
>when the water reaches the level of the float, it floats and stops the water
>flow. Just like a toilet float valve, and you don't have to turn off the
>water that feeds the unit. For the waste water, you either run the drain
>line to a drain or somewhere to discard the water. Some like to save the
>waste water to water plants. My unit is on my back porch, and the drain
>line runs to a flower bed. The flowers like it!! Like Marc pointed out,
>protect against freezing. I drain my unit during freezes or use a clamp-on
>heat lamp pointed at the unit. Here's another pic that shows the location
>of the float valve and the max water level (the level the float's mounted
>at):


http://www.geocities.com/ctmidnite53/

[Marc Levenson]

Glad you're happy! <big smile>

Marc


Ct Midnite wrote:

> I'm a farmer and know all about float valves and such. I just
> couldn't imagine how you could shut off the RO/DI output and have it
> shut the whole thing down. I had visions of float switches and
> electric shut off valves. None to cheap.
>
> I've got it set up and running. Just filling buckets with the stove
> timer right now. The fancy stuff later. :)
>
> For those of you who don't have one of these things, the one from Marc
> is very easy to install. It took me about 15 min to have it up and
> running. Very simple. He includes virtually everything you need.
>
> It's the coolest thing. You shut down the output and 10 sec later it
> all stops running. It's got some kind of internal switch activated by
> pressure from the output side.
>
> There is even a outlet for just RO water if you want to use it for
> yourself.
>
> Thanks again Marc.
>
> Ct Midnite
>
> On Wed, 24 Dec 2003 06:59:22 GMT, "Royce" >
> wrote:
>
> >If you need some help with the set-up, email me and I'll be glad to help
> >(remove the "dot" from the email address). It's really simple though. You
> >place the float valve at the maximum water level desired. Like Cap said,
> >when the water reaches the level of the float, it floats and stops the water
> >flow. Just like a toilet float valve, and you don't have to turn off the
> >water that feeds the unit. For the waste water, you either run the drain
> >line to a drain or somewhere to discard the water. Some like to save the
> >waste water to water plants. My unit is on my back porch, and the drain
> >line runs to a flower bed. The flowers like it!! Like Marc pointed out,
> >protect against freezing. I drain my unit during freezes or use a clamp-on
> >heat lamp pointed at the unit. Here's another pic that shows the location
> >of the float valve and the max water level (the level the float's mounted
> >at):
>
> http://www.geocities.com/ctmidnite53/

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[SteelBlue]

I read both those articles and it sounds like there's nothing wrong with
drinking it. I've always heard you're not supposed to drink it also. Wonder
why?


JT


"Ct Midnite" <mreef2.10.muffin@spamgourmet.(nospam)com> wrote in message
...
> I'm a farmer and know all about float valves and such. I just
> couldn't imagine how you could shut off the RO/DI output and have it
> shut the whole thing down. I had visions of float switches and
> electric shut off valves. None to cheap.
>
> I've got it set up and running. Just filling buckets with the stove
> timer right now. The fancy stuff later. :)
>
> For those of you who don't have one of these things, the one from Marc
> is very easy to install. It took me about 15 min to have it up and
> running. Very simple. He includes virtually everything you need.
>
> It's the coolest thing. You shut down the output and 10 sec later it
> all stops running. It's got some kind of internal switch activated by
> pressure from the output side.
>
> There is even a outlet for just RO water if you want to use it for
> yourself.
>
> Thanks again Marc.
>
> Ct Midnite
>
> On Wed, 24 Dec 2003 06:59:22 GMT, "Royce" >
> wrote:
>
> >If you need some help with the set-up, email me and I'll be glad to help
> >(remove the "dot" from the email address). It's really simple though.
You
> >place the float valve at the maximum water level desired. Like Cap said,
> >when the water reaches the level of the float, it floats and stops the
water
> >flow. Just like a toilet float valve, and you don't have to turn off the
> >water that feeds the unit. For the waste water, you either run the drain
> >line to a drain or somewhere to discard the water. Some like to save the
> >waste water to water plants. My unit is on my back porch, and the drain
> >line runs to a flower bed. The flowers like it!! Like Marc pointed out,
> >protect against freezing. I drain my unit during freezes or use a
clamp-on
> >heat lamp pointed at the unit. Here's another pic that shows the
location
> >of the float valve and the max water level (the level the float's mounted
> >at):
>
>
> http://www.geocities.com/ctmidnite53/

[Royce]

Marc, you're the greatest!!

"Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
...
> Glad you're happy! <big smile>
>
> Marc
>
>
> Ct Midnite wrote:
>
> > I'm a farmer and know all about float valves and such. I just
> > couldn't imagine how you could shut off the RO/DI output and have it
> > shut the whole thing down. I had visions of float switches and
> > electric shut off valves. None to cheap.
> >
> > I've got it set up and running. Just filling buckets with the stove
> > timer right now. The fancy stuff later. :)
> >
> > For those of you who don't have one of these things, the one from Marc
> > is very easy to install. It took me about 15 min to have it up and
> > running. Very simple. He includes virtually everything you need.
> >
> > It's the coolest thing. You shut down the output and 10 sec later it
> > all stops running. It's got some kind of internal switch activated by
> > pressure from the output side.
> >
> > There is even a outlet for just RO water if you want to use it for
> > yourself.
> >
> > Thanks again Marc.
> >
> > Ct Midnite
> >
> > On Wed, 24 Dec 2003 06:59:22 GMT, "Royce" >
> > wrote:
> >
> > >If you need some help with the set-up, email me and I'll be glad to
help
> > >(remove the "dot" from the email address). It's really simple though.
You
> > >place the float valve at the maximum water level desired. Like Cap
said,
> > >when the water reaches the level of the float, it floats and stops the
water
> > >flow. Just like a toilet float valve, and you don't have to turn off
the
> > >water that feeds the unit. For the waste water, you either run the
drain
> > >line to a drain or somewhere to discard the water. Some like to save
the
> > >waste water to water plants. My unit is on my back porch, and the
drain
> > >line runs to a flower bed. The flowers like it!! Like Marc pointed
out,
> > >protect against freezing. I drain my unit during freezes or use a
clamp-on
> > >heat lamp pointed at the unit. Here's another pic that shows the
location
> > >of the float valve and the max water level (the level the float's
mounted
> > >at):
> >
> > http://www.geocities.com/ctmidnite53/
>
> --
> Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
>
>

[Raymond]

"BR549" > wrote in message >...
> This why we don't drink the DI water
>
> http://www.finishing.com/138/06.html

Hopefully you read down far enough to see that drinking DI or
Distilled (or RO for that matter) is perfectly safe....

[CapFusion]

"Raymond" > wrote in message
om...
> "BR549" > wrote in message
>...
> > This why we don't drink the DI water
> >
> > http://www.finishing.com/138/06.html
>
> Hopefully you read down far enough to see that drinking DI or
> Distilled (or RO for that matter) is perfectly safe....

Drinking RO/DI is fine but it would not taste too good. I would say it too
pure [IMO]. Your body need those nutrient other than your food comsumption.
Having puriest water for your aquarium, is for and to control and to know
what you put in.

CapFusion,...

[BR549]

IMO I would add a little Kalkwasser (or something to harden the water for
storage) to this RO plant project, just to keep the DI water from eating the
fittings an garbage can, DI water will come to equilibrium at no expence,
this is my opinion

BR549



"Royce" > wrote in message
...
> I love my little RO plant. Approx. $30 for the Rubbermaid trash can, a
> couple of bucks for the spigot, and about $10 for the blocks, and I was
> set!! I have a Kent float valve in the can, not expensive either. Here's
a
> pic:
>
> http://www.stansrods.com/roplant.jpg
>
> Good Luck,
> Royce
>
>
>

[Raymond]

> Drinking RO/DI is fine but it would not taste too good. I would say it too

This is a matter of taste. I like the taste of RO my self.

> pure [IMO]. Your body need those nutrient other than your food comsumption.

This is true. If you only drink water and your only water source is RO
or better then you may become depleted in minerial after a few years.
I do take trace minerals on a regular basis to cover this. This is a
good practice anyway as most people tend to be low on trace minerals.

One other point here. Pop/Soda doesn't count as it is all made with RO
water as well.

All IMO of course. :)
Raymond

[Raymond]

"BR549" > wrote in message >...
> IMO I would add a little Kalkwasser (or something to harden the water for
> storage) to this RO plant project, just to keep the DI water from eating the
> fittings an garbage can, DI water will come to equilibrium at no expence,
> this is my opinion
>
> BR549

That sounds like something you would have to do for every batch of
water. It would take very little. I would suggest some course sand in
the bottom of the holding tank. It would disolve as needed and would
last for quite some time....

Raymond

[BR549]

I use a teaspoon full in a 35 gallon garbage can, if you use sand use
aragonite not silica (silica is basically fine ground glass, no buffering
qualities, please correct me if I am wrong), good idea Raymond, crushed
coral would work good also.

BR549

"Raymond" > wrote in message
om...
> "BR549" > wrote in message
>...
> > IMO I would add a little Kalkwasser (or something to harden the water
for
> > storage) to this RO plant project, just to keep the DI water from eating
the
> > fittings an garbage can, DI water will come to equilibrium at no
expence,
> > this is my opinion
> >
> > BR549
>
> That sounds like something you would have to do for every batch of
> water. It would take very little. I would suggest some course sand in
> the bottom of the holding tank. It would disolve as needed and would
> last for quite some time....
>
> Raymond
>