Help getting a light going

[PegLegAlexK]

I'm trying to get a light going for my son. Its my
first attempt at wiring a ballast. I must be doing
something wrong. Picked up a ballast on ebay, 250 mh advance.

wiring diagram
HTTP://members.aol.com/peglegalexk/bal2.jpg/


how I wired it
HTTP://members.aol.com/peglegalexk/bal1.jpg/

Nothing happens. Bulb does not light (tried 2 different new bulbs).
I have the ballast plugged into a kill-a-watt meter. NO watts
being used. OK, I'm stuck. Any ideas. How do I debug this?
I have a cheap multimeter but not a lot of exp using it.

Can anybody tell me how to discharge a capacitor?

Thanks

[Chris Taylor]

Your capacitor doesn't match it's position in the cct diagram.

The cct diagram shows the cap before the secondary coil which then heads off
to the lamp. You've set up the capacitor directly in line with the lamp
blocking power to the lamp.

Call a friend with appropriate knowledge, or a call a sparky round (my
disclaimer).

Regards


Chris


"PegLegAlexK" > wrote in message
...
> I'm trying to get a light going for my son. Its my
> first attempt at wiring a ballast. I must be doing
> something wrong. Picked up a ballast on ebay, 250 mh advance.
>
> wiring diagram
> HTTP://members.aol.com/peglegalexk/bal2.jpg/
>
>
> how I wired it
> HTTP://members.aol.com/peglegalexk/bal1.jpg/
>
> Nothing happens. Bulb does not light (tried 2 different new bulbs).
> I have the ballast plugged into a kill-a-watt meter. NO watts
> being used. OK, I'm stuck. Any ideas. How do I debug this?
> I have a cheap multimeter but not a lot of exp using it.
>
> Can anybody tell me how to discharge a capacitor?
>
> Thanks

[Steve Sells]

the CAP. is for the start up voltage, and the line powers the light for fun
current, if I have lost you, the PLEASE get a electrician to help you out,
IF you are near Ft Wayne Indiana, I will do it for a beer ;)


Steve, also IBEW 305 electrician

"PegLegAlexK" > wrote in message
...
> I'm trying to get a light going for my son. Its my
> first attempt at wiring a ballast. I must be doing
> something wrong. Picked up a ballast on ebay, 250 mh advance.
>
> wiring diagram
> HTTP://members.aol.com/peglegalexk/bal2.jpg/
>
>
> how I wired it
> HTTP://members.aol.com/peglegalexk/bal1.jpg/
>
> Nothing happens. Bulb does not light (tried 2 different new bulbs).
> I have the ballast plugged into a kill-a-watt meter. NO watts
> being used. OK, I'm stuck. Any ideas. How do I debug this?
> I have a cheap multimeter but not a lot of exp using it.
>
> Can anybody tell me how to discharge a capacitor?
>
> Thanks

[PegLegAlexK]

>Chris Taylor"

>The cct diagram shows the cap before the secondary coil which then heads off
>to the lamp. You've set up the capacitor directly in line with th

I realize I'm a little out of my league here but its do or die.
Santa didn't include an electrician nor the cash to aquire one.
I'm not worried because we're doing the testing out in the shed.
I figure it will either burn up, blow up or light up.

Everything came in a kit from a "perfect feedback" seller on ebay.
From his history he sells many ballasts. I asked him but he only
"sells" them doesn't "wire" them.

As far as the cap in the wrong place, there was only one wire marked
cap so I thought it had to be the one.

There are 7 wires running from the ballast.
Visually 6 "come from" one coil,
1- 277
1- 240
1- 208
1- 120
2- Com

1- "comes from" the other coil and is marked cap.

I've done a lot of house wiring but this stuff is a little different.
I'm thinking maybe I need a white and black on that cap.
Of course I could not hold anybody else but myself responsible
should anything go haywire.

"If its gonna sit unused forever on a shelf
its gonna sit there charred and smelly"

[Chris Taylor]

"""I realize I'm a little out of my league here but its do or die."""

Appreciate your predicament, its the "die" bit in "do or die" that I'm
worried about....

I'll try to help out but US seems to have a differing regime regarding
colour (even the way you spell it...) coding and the rest of the world, this
makes it more of a concern when trying to help.

Make sure that there is no power connected when working on the setup (you'll
already know this) and do yourself a favour and short circuit the capacitor
AFTER you've switched power off. Large Caps carry quite a bolt with no power
connected as they hold charge (used to be great for practical jokes on
unsuspecting apprentices without heart problems - or access to a legal
team).

It appears from your writing below that there are two coils? The
manufacturer diagram shows that the two coils share a common connection
(Neutral; which is blue or black on most of the planet but not sure in the
US as you appear to have white serving the neutral in your hand drawing).
Steve, also IBEW 305 electrician - should be able to offer pointers here.

I'm not sure what the two blocks are in your picture, are these the supposed
two coils? with their respective outputs? If these are two coils I do not
see the common point of connection between them in your hand drawn diagram.
If it's an enclosed or sealed unit a Volt/Ohm meter and experienced operator
will be the easiest way to determine this.

In the manufacturer diagram the Cap is pictured between the two coils and
thus does not have a direct connection to the lamp without passing through a
coil (Your hand drawn diagram shows a direct connection between the Cap and
the lamp).

In the manufacturer drawing the other side of the Cap looks to take a
'center tap' from the first coil and appears to have about a potential
requirement somewhere between 0 and 120V. Again the Volt/Ohm meter and
experienced operator would be helpful here.

I'm not familiar with the setup you have but the above should offer pointers
as to what it is that you may not doing correctly based on both yours and
the manufacturers drawings.

Good luck, and lets hope it doesn't end up "charred and smelly. Let me know
the outcome regardless.

Seasons greetings, and regards


Chris


"PegLegAlexK" > wrote in message
...
> >Chris Taylor"
>
> >The cct diagram shows the cap before the secondary coil which then heads
off
> >to the lamp. You've set up the capacitor directly in line with th
>
> I realize I'm a little out of my league here but its do or die.
> Santa didn't include an electrician nor the cash to aquire one.
> I'm not worried because we're doing the testing out in the shed.
> I figure it will either burn up, blow up or light up.
>
> Everything came in a kit from a "perfect feedback" seller on ebay.
> From his history he sells many ballasts. I asked him but he only
> "sells" them doesn't "wire" them.
>
> As far as the cap in the wrong place, there was only one wire marked
> cap so I thought it had to be the one.
>
> There are 7 wires running from the ballast.
> Visually 6 "come from" one coil,
> 1- 277
> 1- 240
> 1- 208
> 1- 120
> 2- Com
>
> 1- "comes from" the other coil and is marked cap.
>
> I've done a lot of house wiring but this stuff is a little different.
> I'm thinking maybe I need a white and black on that cap.
> Of course I could not hold anybody else but myself responsible
> should anything go haywire.
>
> "If its gonna sit unused forever on a shelf
> its gonna sit there charred and smelly"
>
>

[PegLegAlexK]

Success! Not really sure what fixed it.
I redid some of the solderless connections,
seperated the com wires as per a great
"Ballast for dummies" site I found,
and switched the terminals on the cap.
Funny thing is I didn't think any of those
would do the trick, but who cares. It works
real nice. Thanks to all who took the time to help.

>(PegLegAlexK)
>Date: 12/30/2003 5:13 PM Eastern Standard Time
>Message-id: >
>
>I'm trying to get a light going for my son. Its my
>first attempt at wiring a ballast. I must be doing
>something wrong. Picked up a ballast on ebay, 250 mh advance.
>
>wiring diagram
>HTTP://members.aol.com/peglegalexk/bal2.jpg/
>
>
>how I wired it
>HTTP://members.aol.com/peglegalexk/bal1.jpg/
>
>Nothing happens. Bulb does not light (tried 2 different new bulbs).
>I have the ballast plugged into a kill-a-watt meter. NO watts
>being used. OK, I'm stuck. Any ideas. How do I debug this?
>I have a cheap multimeter but not a lot of exp using it.
>
>Can anybody tell me how to discharge a capacitor?
>
>Thanks
>

[Steve Sells]

US standard Wire Colors FYI.

Standard is 60 cycle AC power.

Green or Bare, is always Ground. it may or may not have a yellow stripe on
the green.
White Neutral for Low Voltages
Gray Neutral for High Voltages (above 250 volts AC)


DC current Black is Neutral, While Red is for hot, but many other colors can
be used for hot also.

AC below 120, 208, 240 volts ) called (low voltage)
Black is hot, also Red and Blue are used mainly for 3 phase
applications

AC High Voltages 277, 440, 480 volts and above
Brown, Orange, Yellow, These are rarely available in residential
areas, mainly used for Commercial. But with MH Lighting you will see these
colors on the ballast wires.


> I'll try to help out but US seems to have a differing regime regarding
> colour (even the way you spell it...) coding and the rest of the world,
this
> makes it more of a concern when trying to help.
>
> Make sure that there is no power connected when working on the setup
(you'll
> already know this) and do yourself a favour and short circuit the
capacitor
> AFTER you've switched power off. Large Caps carry quite a bolt with no
power
> connected as they hold charge (used to be great for practical jokes on
> unsuspecting apprentices without heart problems - or access to a legal
> team).
>
> It appears from your writing below that there are two coils? The
> manufacturer diagram shows that the two coils share a common connection
> (Neutral; which is blue or black on most of the planet but not sure in the
> US as you appear to have white serving the neutral in your hand drawing).
> Steve, also IBEW 305 electrician - should be able to offer pointers here.

[Chris Taylor]

Hi Steve

Thanks for this. "PegLegAlexK" has worked his issues out and has got the
light working.

Regards


Chris


"Steve Sells" > wrote in message
hlink.net...
> US standard Wire Colors FYI.
>
> Standard is 60 cycle AC power.
>
> Green or Bare, is always Ground. it may or may not have a yellow stripe on
> the green.
> White Neutral for Low Voltages
> Gray Neutral for High Voltages (above 250 volts AC)
>
>
> DC current Black is Neutral, While Red is for hot, but many other colors
can
> be used for hot also.
>
> AC below 120, 208, 240 volts ) called (low voltage)
> Black is hot, also Red and Blue are used mainly for 3 phase
> applications
>
> AC High Voltages 277, 440, 480 volts and above
> Brown, Orange, Yellow, These are rarely available in
residential
> areas, mainly used for Commercial. But with MH Lighting you will see
these
> colors on the ballast wires.
>
>
> > I'll try to help out but US seems to have a differing regime regarding
> > colour (even the way you spell it...) coding and the rest of the world,
> this
> > makes it more of a concern when trying to help.
> >
> > Make sure that there is no power connected when working on the setup
> (you'll
> > already know this) and do yourself a favour and short circuit the
> capacitor
> > AFTER you've switched power off. Large Caps carry quite a bolt with no
> power
> > connected as they hold charge (used to be great for practical jokes on
> > unsuspecting apprentices without heart problems - or access to a legal
> > team).
> >
> > It appears from your writing below that there are two coils? The
> > manufacturer diagram shows that the two coils share a common connection
> > (Neutral; which is blue or black on most of the planet but not sure in
the
> > US as you appear to have white serving the neutral in your hand
drawing).
> > Steve, also IBEW 305 electrician - should be able to offer pointers
here.
>
>