New reef tank... Can you advise if its going ok?

[Kyle]

I have a new tank with I dunno how much live rock.. going to add more.
I test the salinity every day and its great, right in the range that
the tester thingy said it should be, 1.024. Can I use damselfish and
live rock to start the cycle? No 50/50 lamps or protein skimmer right
now.. ordering those online as I type. No sump.. Wondering if I need a
canister filter.. Please Give me advice!!!

[Chris Taylor]

"""Please Give me advice!!!"""

The advice will vary depending on how much the responder thinks you have to
spend.

I wouldn't put a fish through the ordeal of living in an ammonia rich
environment, though some people do. You may also be forced to live with a
reasonably territorial and potentially agressive tank inhabitant after the
tank has cycled. Consensus seems to be that a couple prawns left to rot in
the tank will help the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate process along.

Some people would advise against a canister filter. Some (including myself)
have no issues with them as they take up little space and are easy to
implement. With sufficient live rock it is said that you can get away with
no filtration. I'm not qualified to advise on the quantity though..

There are different ways to use the canister, ie with or without mechanical
filtration, or with or without chemical absorbent materials (resins, carbon
etc). In the absence of any alternative filtration I would advise that you
obtain a canister filter (larger is better). If you intend to change to a
sump later you can still keep the canister for additoinal water circulation
and absorbtion resins etc, if space permits.

You say that you've already got the live rock. Seems you may be cycling with
the rock in the tank to start with regardless. I wouldn't buy more live rock
though until your nitrites had back down to 0, some would disagree here but
you can often kill off the good stuff on the rock (that you re-mortgaged
for) during cycling. What temperature is the tank, what size, how many
lamps, are you going for fish only with love rock, corals/inverts only or a
mixed environment.

Good luck with the venture and regards


Chris


"Kyle" > wrote in message
om...
> I have a new tank with I dunno how much live rock.. going to add more.
> I test the salinity every day and its great, right in the range that
> the tester thingy said it should be, 1.024. Can I use damselfish and
> live rock to start the cycle? No 50/50 lamps or protein skimmer right
> now.. ordering those online as I type. No sump.. Wondering if I need a
> canister filter.. Please Give me advice!!!

[Richard Reynolds]

> I have a new tank with I dunno how much live rock.. going to add more.

either add it NOW, or buy cured lr(more $$$) after its done cycling

> I test the salinity every day and its great, right in the range that
> the tester thingy said it should be, 1.024.

you shouldnt need to test salinity every day, but do push it up a tad 1.025~1.026 is
better. test more like weekly or 2x a week if evap seems high (usually only durring summer
months)

> Can I use damselfish and
> live rock to start the cycle?

your already cycling no need to add a fish

you should be testing ammonia/nitrite/nitrate now though

>No 50/50 lamps or protein skimmer right
> now.. ordering those online as I type. No sump.. Wondering if I need a

you dont NEED a sump, but if you can you will want one. get the skimmer 1 notch higher
than you can afford :)

> canister filter.. Please Give me advice!!!

NO NO NO no canister filters on a reef. if you owned one now, it wouldnt be the end of the
world, but dont pay for one now. if you NEED to run say carbon and have no sump than a $20
HOB powerfilter (w/o bio media) will do fine.



--
Richard Reynolds

[Chris Taylor]

""NO NO NO no canister filters on a reef.""

An absolute view (Yawn); two reef tanks with canisters and no issue.
Nitrates are <5ppm, Phosphates 0, present tank looks good.

A contentious issue I'm sure. Limiting options could perhaps limit fellow
participants in this hobby. Like anything - there are usually more ways than
one. Sumps may be better than canisters, that's not to say that canisters
cannot and do not have their place when that's all the poster can afford.


Chris

--------------------------------------------------


"Richard Reynolds" > wrote in message
news:hpkJb.37173$gN.20439@fed1read05...
> > I have a new tank with I dunno how much live rock.. going to add more.
>
> either add it NOW, or buy cured lr(more $$$) after its done cycling
>
> > I test the salinity every day and its great, right in the range that
> > the tester thingy said it should be, 1.024.
>
> you shouldnt need to test salinity every day, but do push it up a tad
1.025~1.026 is
> better. test more like weekly or 2x a week if evap seems high (usually
only durring summer
> months)
>
> > Can I use damselfish and
> > live rock to start the cycle?
>
> your already cycling no need to add a fish
>
> you should be testing ammonia/nitrite/nitrate now though
>
> >No 50/50 lamps or protein skimmer right
> > now.. ordering those online as I type. No sump.. Wondering if I need a
>
> you dont NEED a sump, but if you can you will want one. get the skimmer 1
notch higher
> than you can afford :)
>
> > canister filter.. Please Give me advice!!!
>
> NO NO NO no canister filters on a reef. if you owned one now, it wouldnt
be the end of the
> world, but dont pay for one now. if you NEED to run say carbon and have no
sump than a $20
> HOB powerfilter (w/o bio media) will do fine.
>
>
>
> --
> Richard Reynolds
>
>
>
>
>

[Kyle]

"Chris Taylor" > wrote in message >...
> """Please Give me advice!!!"""
>
> The advice will vary depending on how much the responder thinks you have to
> spend.
>
> I wouldn't put a fish through the ordeal of living in an ammonia rich
> environment, though some people do. You may also be forced to live with a
> reasonably territorial and potentially agressive tank inhabitant after the
> tank has cycled. Consensus seems to be that a couple prawns left to rot in
> the tank will help the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate process along.
>
> Some people would advise against a canister filter. Some (including myself)
> have no issues with them as they take up little space and are easy to
> implement. With sufficient live rock it is said that you can get away with
> no filtration. I'm not qualified to advise on the quantity though..
>
> There are different ways to use the canister, ie with or without mechanical
> filtration, or with or without chemical absorbent materials (resins, carbon
> etc). In the absence of any alternative filtration I would advise that you
> obtain a canister filter (larger is better). If you intend to change to a
> sump later you can still keep the canister for additoinal water circulation
> and absorbtion resins etc, if space permits.
>
> You say that you've already got the live rock. Seems you may be cycling with
> the rock in the tank to start with regardless. I wouldn't buy more live rock
> though until your nitrites had back down to 0, some would disagree here but
> you can often kill off the good stuff on the rock (that you re-mortgaged
> for) during cycling. What temperature is the tank, what size, how many
> lamps, are you going for fish only with love rock, corals/inverts only or a
> mixed environment.
>
> Good luck with the venture and regards
>
>
> Chris
>
>
> "Kyle" > wrote in message
> om...
> > I have a new tank with I dunno how much live rock.. going to add more.
> > I test the salinity every day and its great, right in the range that
> > the tester thingy said it should be, 1.024. Can I use damselfish and
> > live rock to start the cycle? No 50/50 lamps or protein skimmer right
> > now.. ordering those online as I type. No sump.. Wondering if I need a
> > canister filter.. Please Give me advice!!!

sorry I gave you so little information :(. I have a 55 gal I keep the
water at 80 degrees farenhight. I want a reef aqarium. I asked the LFS
(local fish shop) and they said that it would only kill of stuff it
was uncured????? Mine is fully cured. Im ordering a skimmer. Is that
all I need to tell you??? Thanks in advance!

[Marc Levenson]

Chris, you need to read this page to get you started:

http://www.melevsreef.com/overview.htm

This will give you some insight as I get the impression you are going into this blindly. And that is not an insult,
and shouldn't be taken that way. As you learn more from reading, you'll understand the concepts more and soon have a
great reef tank too!

Marc



> sorry I gave you so little information :(. I have a 55 gal I keep the
> water at 80 degrees farenhight. I want a reef aqarium. I asked the LFS
> (local fish shop) and they said that it would only kill of stuff it
> was uncured????? Mine is fully cured. Im ordering a skimmer. Is that
> all I need to tell you??? Thanks in advance!

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[Marc Levenson]

Sorry, that post below was intended for Kyle, not Chris.

However.... Chris, a canister filter can work but there are some negatives. It needs to have the pads cleaned out
weekly. It creates extra heat, raising the tank water's temperature, beause the motor (base of the canister) gets hot.
Other than that, it isn't a huge deal. I only use it for running specific sponges (Phosguard, Nitrate Sponge, or even
Carbon) occasionally. I can also use it as a vacuum when necessary, as I'll do this weekend on a 340g tank.

Marc


Marc Levenson wrote:

> Chris, you need to read this page to get you started:
>
> http://www.melevsreef.com/overview.htm
>
> This will give you some insight as I get the impression you are going into this blindly. And that is not an insult,
> and shouldn't be taken that way. As you learn more from reading, you'll understand the concepts more and soon have a
> great reef tank too!
>
> Marc
>
> > sorry I gave you so little information :(. I have a 55 gal I keep the
> > water at 80 degrees farenhight. I want a reef aqarium. I asked the LFS
> > (local fish shop) and they said that it would only kill of stuff it
> > was uncured????? Mine is fully cured. Im ordering a skimmer. Is that
> > all I need to tell you??? Thanks in advance!
>
> --
> Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[Kyle]

"Chris Taylor" > wrote in message >...
> ""NO NO NO no canister filters on a reef.""
>
> An absolute view (Yawn); two reef tanks with canisters and no issue.
> Nitrates are <5ppm, Phosphates 0, present tank looks good.
>
> A contentious issue I'm sure. Limiting options could perhaps limit fellow
> participants in this hobby. Like anything - there are usually more ways than
> one. Sumps may be better than canisters, that's not to say that canisters
> cannot and do not have their place when that's all the poster can afford.
>
>
> Chris
>
> --------------------------------------------------
>
>
> "Richard Reynolds" > wrote in message
> news:hpkJb.37173$gN.20439@fed1read05...
> > > I have a new tank with I dunno how much live rock.. going to add more.
> >
> > either add it NOW, or buy cured lr(more $$$) after its done cycling
> >
> > > I test the salinity every day and its great, right in the range that
> > > the tester thingy said it should be, 1.024.
> >
> > you shouldnt need to test salinity every day, but do push it up a tad
> 1.025~1.026 is
> > better. test more like weekly or 2x a week if evap seems high (usually
> only durring summer
> > months)
> >
> > > Can I use damselfish and
> > > live rock to start the cycle?
> >
> > your already cycling no need to add a fish
> >
> > you should be testing ammonia/nitrite/nitrate now though
> >
> > >No 50/50 lamps or protein skimmer right
> > > now.. ordering those online as I type. No sump.. Wondering if I need a
> >
> > you dont NEED a sump, but if you can you will want one. get the skimmer 1
> notch higher
> > than you can afford :)
> >
> > > canister filter.. Please Give me advice!!!
> >
> > NO NO NO no canister filters on a reef. if you owned one now, it wouldnt
> be the end of the
> > world, but dont pay for one now. if you NEED to run say carbon and have no
> sump than a $20
> > HOB powerfilter (w/o bio media) will do fine.
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Richard Reynolds
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >

Im getting AquaC Ramora Pro skimmer.. heard alot about how good it is.

[Richard Reynolds]

> ""NO NO NO no canister filters on a reef.""
>
> An absolute view (Yawn); two reef tanks with canisters and no issue.
> Nitrates are <5ppm, Phosphates 0, present tank looks good.

ooh your right

well lets see now the negatives

they cost MORE than a powerfilter and powerhead
they add MORE heat to a tank
they are more work for a newbie to maintain
because they are more work its tempting to ignore them
they are not particularly powerful
they have nothing at all to do with phosphates
generally there not phyto safe more so than a normal return pump
for many models (note not all) its more of a challange to adapt them when/if you get a
sump going to work off the sump alone, which leaves them hooked up to the main tank.
they are not particularly great at filtering most have a huge bypass (???forgot the phrase
but where the water doesnt move thru the media but goes around it)

im sure given enough time i could think of more :)

ok so lets thing the pluses
umm
umm
they look cool
and they dont take any space on the back of a tank


ill stick with my recomendation especially for a newbie

no canister filters on a reef



--
Richard Reynolds

[Chris Taylor]

As I said: "an absolute view".



"Richard Reynolds" > wrote in message
news:X9sJb.37243$gN.2690@fed1read05...
> > ""NO NO NO no canister filters on a reef.""
> >
> > An absolute view (Yawn); two reef tanks with canisters and no issue.
> > Nitrates are <5ppm, Phosphates 0, present tank looks good.
>
> ooh your right
>
> well lets see now the negatives
>
> they cost MORE than a powerfilter and powerhead
> they add MORE heat to a tank
> they are more work for a newbie to maintain
> because they are more work its tempting to ignore them
> they are not particularly powerful
> they have nothing at all to do with phosphates
> generally there not phyto safe more so than a normal return pump
> for many models (note not all) its more of a challange to adapt them
when/if you get a
> sump going to work off the sump alone, which leaves them hooked up to the
main tank.
> they are not particularly great at filtering most have a huge bypass
(???forgot the phrase
> but where the water doesnt move thru the media but goes around it)
>
> im sure given enough time i could think of more :)
>
> ok so lets thing the pluses
> umm
> umm
> they look cool
> and they dont take any space on the back of a tank
>
>
> ill stick with my recomendation especially for a newbie
>
> no canister filters on a reef
>
>
>
> --
> Richard Reynolds
>
>
>
>

[Chris Taylor]

Hi Marc

Thanks for the view.

I understand that they may not be the optimum solution, in areas where
funds, market availability and space are considerations they have their
place. If the choice boils down to using a canister, or having no marine
tank the canister remains an option. An absolute view could perhaps
intimidate a new entrant into the hobby. In some countries (I'll use South
Africa as an example) it can take between 6 months and 12 months wages to
construct an economical marine environment. If simplicity and cost allow
others to enjoy the hobby I think it holds benefit and we should maintain a
broad concensus as to what is achievable on the low end and what is
desirable on the high end.

BTW I'm using a Rena Filstar, and the lid (where the pump sits) runs a
couple of degrees above room temperature at most. The manufacturer advice
states to clean every 4 weeks although I do clean half of the compartments
(alternate) every fortnight.

I'd also like to say that your contribution to this newsgroup is pretty
valuable. Thanks for your time.

Best Regards


Chris


"Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
...
> Sorry, that post below was intended for Kyle, not Chris.
>
> However.... Chris, a canister filter can work but there are some
negatives. It needs to have the pads cleaned out
> weekly. It creates extra heat, raising the tank water's temperature,
beause the motor (base of the canister) gets hot.
> Other than that, it isn't a huge deal. I only use it for running specific
sponges (Phosguard, Nitrate Sponge, or even
> Carbon) occasionally. I can also use it as a vacuum when necessary, as
I'll do this weekend on a 340g tank.
>
> Marc
>
>
> Marc Levenson wrote:
>
> > Chris, you need to read this page to get you started:
> >
> > http://www.melevsreef.com/overview.htm
> >
> > This will give you some insight as I get the impression you are going
into this blindly. And that is not an insult,
> > and shouldn't be taken that way. As you learn more from reading, you'll
understand the concepts more and soon have a
> > great reef tank too!
> >
> > Marc
> >
> > > sorry I gave you so little information :(. I have a 55 gal I keep the
> > > water at 80 degrees farenhight. I want a reef aqarium. I asked the LFS
> > > (local fish shop) and they said that it would only kill of stuff it
> > > was uncured????? Mine is fully cured. Im ordering a skimmer. Is that
> > > all I need to tell you??? Thanks in advance!
> >
> > --
> > Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> > Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> > Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
>
> --
> Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
> Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
> Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
>
>

[Kyle]

"Richard Reynolds" > wrote in message news:<X9sJb.37243$gN.2690@fed1read05>...
> > ""NO NO NO no canister filters on a reef.""
> >
> > An absolute view (Yawn); two reef tanks with canisters and no issue.
> > Nitrates are <5ppm, Phosphates 0, present tank looks good.
>
> ooh your right
>
> well lets see now the negatives
>
> they cost MORE than a powerfilter and powerhead
> they add MORE heat to a tank
> they are more work for a newbie to maintain
> because they are more work its tempting to ignore them
> they are not particularly powerful
> they have nothing at all to do with phosphates
> generally there not phyto safe more so than a normal return pump
> for many models (note not all) its more of a challange to adapt them when/if you get a
> sump going to work off the sump alone, which leaves them hooked up to the main tank.
> they are not particularly great at filtering most have a huge bypass (???forgot the phrase
> but where the water doesnt move thru the media but goes around it)
>
> im sure given enough time i could think of more :)
>
> ok so lets thing the pluses
> umm
> umm
> they look cool
> and they dont take any space on the back of a tank
>
>
> ill stick with my recomendation especially for a newbie
>
> no canister filters on a reef


Thanks for the link to the info.. thats about the 10000000000th time
Ive read thru that information on different sites. I did 1 month of
reasearch before I even got the tank. Thanks anyway though. :)

[Richard Reynolds]

> BTW I'm using a Rena Filstar, and the lid (where the pump sits) runs a
> couple of degrees above room temperature at most. The manufacturer advice
> states to clean every 4 weeks although I do clean half of the compartments
> (alternate) every fortnight.

ooh yea cool, i have the xp2 which do you have. what media do you run in it ???

I run regular carbon and the bio stuff. the rena stuff is to expensive and I buy carbon in
5lb bags so i just use a reuseable 1000micron nylon drawstring bag for my carbon.

how big is your tank, the one mine is on is a 30 it seems under powered it says its rated
for some 75gallons it seems to work though I had to build a new return as its not seahorse
friendly but from what ive seen eheim is the only one that makes one that is and you have
to buy one of there extra elbows because they dont come with the one you need.

how bout yours ???

--
Richard Reynolds

[Chris Taylor]

Hi Richard

"""ooh yea cool, i have the xp2 which do you have. ???"""
Not sure in my present state (under the affluence of incahol) but I think
its an XP3 (will get bank to you in the morning with Hangover induced
response likely preceded with GGRRR!!)

"""what media do you run in it"""
I use RO water and Media is varied according to the tank's needs. last month
was Rena media (star shaped stuff) and Phos Zorb with usual mechanical
filtration. I use the Rena media to supplement the tank's (with live rock)
ability to handle organic compounds. Phos Zorb reduced phosphates to 0PPM,
hence the statement re: phos levels in earlier post.

This month sees limited mechanical filtration and cleanwater filter resin
http://www.aquatics-online.co.uk/acatalog/Cleanwater_Filter_Resin.html
coupled with the activated carbon supplied with the Rena (if only to use).

I intend to remove all resin and mechanical filtration shortly and stick
with Rena media to see if organic requirements are met.

"""the rena stuff is to expensive"""
I agree that Rena stuff is expensive.

"""how big is your tank"""
Tank is 400 litres (roughly 110 US Gallon and I suppose about 90 Imperial
Gallon.

"""I had to build a new return as its not seahorse friendly"""
The Rena supplied plumbing was sufficient. I don't use the spray bar but
rather the power nozzle. Water circulation, to be honest is sufficient but
could do with supplementation. I also use a Prizm skimmer (happy with
product) which adds to the water circulation. I'll get round increasing
circulation after much needed coming vacation. Also no seahorse in present
setup as the fish would probably steal the food from its mouth.

Tank Inhabitants:
Percula x 2
Purple Firefish x 1
Blue Cheek Goby
Coral Goby

Arrow Head Crab x 1 (Big boy)
Peppermint Shrimp x 2 (never see the blighters)
Turbo Snails x 3
'Other' Slug type snails (hitchhikers) x about 10 to 15 and breeding fast.
Bristleworms x I guess about 5 to 10 that I've seen
Brtittle Stars x about 5 or 6 small. (hide all day but can see legs
protruding from rocks)

Finger Coral x 2
Star Polyp x 2
Leather Coral (Huge)
Pulse Coral x 2 (Growing rapidly)
Clove Coral x 1 (seems happy)
Unknown hitchhiker coral (Hard Base Fluoresces all day; assume unknown Small
Polyped Stony (SPS) coral)
Large Mushroom Rock (Fluoresces all day)
Large Heteractis malu Anenome
Button Polyp Rock

Regal Tang x 1 (new inhabitant suffering from apparent parasites, no
quarantine tank...) I may purchase a UV system for relief but am presently
counting on cleaner shrimp. Possible UV for temporary inclusion.
Cleaner shrimp x 1; happily cleans Regal Tang at regular intervals. (this is
really cool to see)

Hope this answers your inquiry. 01h00 and I'm off to bed to see if beloved
wife is still communicating, or hunting for bleach.

Later


Chris



"Richard Reynolds" > wrote in message
news:mPEJb.37301$gN.5052@fed1read05...
> > BTW I'm using a Rena Filstar, and the lid (where the pump sits) runs a
> > couple of degrees above room temperature at most. The manufacturer
advice
> > states to clean every 4 weeks although I do clean half of the
compartments
> > (alternate) every fortnight.
>
> ooh yea cool, i have the xp2 which do you have. what media do you run in
it ???
>
> I run regular carbon and the bio stuff. the rena stuff is to expensive and
I buy carbon in
> 5lb bags so i just use a reuseable 1000micron nylon drawstring bag for my
carbon.
>
> how big is your tank, the one mine is on is a 30 it seems under powered it
says its rated
> for some 75gallons it seems to work though I had to build a new return as
its not seahorse
> friendly but from what ive seen eheim is the only one that makes one that
is and you have
> to buy one of there extra elbows because they dont come with the one you
need.
>
> how bout yours ???
>
> --
> Richard Reynolds
>
>
>
>
>
>

[Chris Taylor]

GGRRR....XP3


"Chris Taylor" > wrote in message
...
> Hi Richard
>
> """ooh yea cool, i have the xp2 which do you have. ???"""
> Not sure in my present state (under the affluence of incahol) but I think
> its an XP3 (will get bank to you in the morning with Hangover induced
> response likely preceded with GGRRR!!)
>
> """what media do you run in it"""
> I use RO water and Media is varied according to the tank's needs. last
month
> was Rena media (star shaped stuff) and Phos Zorb with usual mechanical
> filtration. I use the Rena media to supplement the tank's (with live rock)
> ability to handle organic compounds. Phos Zorb reduced phosphates to 0PPM,
> hence the statement re: phos levels in earlier post.
>
> This month sees limited mechanical filtration and cleanwater filter resin
> http://www.aquatics-online.co.uk/acatalog/Cleanwater_Filter_Resin.html
> coupled with the activated carbon supplied with the Rena (if only to use).
>
> I intend to remove all resin and mechanical filtration shortly and stick
> with Rena media to see if organic requirements are met.
>
> """the rena stuff is to expensive"""
> I agree that Rena stuff is expensive.
>
> """how big is your tank"""
> Tank is 400 litres (roughly 110 US Gallon and I suppose about 90 Imperial
> Gallon.
>
> """I had to build a new return as its not seahorse friendly"""
> The Rena supplied plumbing was sufficient. I don't use the spray bar but
> rather the power nozzle. Water circulation, to be honest is sufficient but
> could do with supplementation. I also use a Prizm skimmer (happy with
> product) which adds to the water circulation. I'll get round increasing
> circulation after much needed coming vacation. Also no seahorse in present
> setup as the fish would probably steal the food from its mouth.
>
> Tank Inhabitants:
> Percula x 2
> Purple Firefish x 1
> Blue Cheek Goby
> Coral Goby
>
> Arrow Head Crab x 1 (Big boy)
> Peppermint Shrimp x 2 (never see the blighters)
> Turbo Snails x 3
> 'Other' Slug type snails (hitchhikers) x about 10 to 15 and breeding fast.
> Bristleworms x I guess about 5 to 10 that I've seen
> Brtittle Stars x about 5 or 6 small. (hide all day but can see legs
> protruding from rocks)
>
> Finger Coral x 2
> Star Polyp x 2
> Leather Coral (Huge)
> Pulse Coral x 2 (Growing rapidly)
> Clove Coral x 1 (seems happy)
> Unknown hitchhiker coral (Hard Base Fluoresces all day; assume unknown
Small
> Polyped Stony (SPS) coral)
> Large Mushroom Rock (Fluoresces all day)
> Large Heteractis malu Anenome
> Button Polyp Rock
>
> Regal Tang x 1 (new inhabitant suffering from apparent parasites, no
> quarantine tank...) I may purchase a UV system for relief but am presently
> counting on cleaner shrimp. Possible UV for temporary inclusion.
> Cleaner shrimp x 1; happily cleans Regal Tang at regular intervals. (this
is
> really cool to see)
>
> Hope this answers your inquiry. 01h00 and I'm off to bed to see if beloved
> wife is still communicating, or hunting for bleach.
>
> Later
>
>
> Chris
>
>
>
> "Richard Reynolds" > wrote in message
> news:mPEJb.37301$gN.5052@fed1read05...
> > > BTW I'm using a Rena Filstar, and the lid (where the pump sits) runs a
> > > couple of degrees above room temperature at most. The manufacturer
> advice
> > > states to clean every 4 weeks although I do clean half of the
> compartments
> > > (alternate) every fortnight.
> >
> > ooh yea cool, i have the xp2 which do you have. what media do you run in
> it ???
> >
> > I run regular carbon and the bio stuff. the rena stuff is to expensive
and
> I buy carbon in
> > 5lb bags so i just use a reuseable 1000micron nylon drawstring bag for
my
> carbon.
> >
> > how big is your tank, the one mine is on is a 30 it seems under powered
it
> says its rated
> > for some 75gallons it seems to work though I had to build a new return
as
> its not seahorse
> > friendly but from what ive seen eheim is the only one that makes one
that
> is and you have
> > to buy one of there extra elbows because they dont come with the one you
> need.
> >
> > how bout yours ???
> >
> > --
> > Richard Reynolds
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>