250W Radium

[fishman]

Any one using the Radium bulbs have any problems. I have been using one for
30 days with nothing but trouble. When I switch on the ballst, I must
unscrew the bulb slighty to get the thing to fire off. Once it comes on it
works fine.

The bulb is installed in a NIB blue wave ballast and reflector. I have
changed out the mogul to one of higher quailty but still have the same
problem. I have also soldered all contections. not sure what to do now. The
ignighter may be next.

[Matthew Comstock]

fishman wrote:
> Any one using the Radium bulbs have any problems. I have been using one for
> 30 days with nothing but trouble. When I switch on the ballst, I must
> unscrew the bulb slighty to get the thing to fire off. Once it comes on it
> works fine.
>
> The bulb is installed in a NIB blue wave ballast and reflector. I have
> changed out the mogul to one of higher quailty but still have the same
> problem. I have also soldered all contections. not sure what to do now. The
> ignighter may be next.
>
>

I've been using two of them in Hellolights retrofit fixtures with no
problem at all. Its been almost a year (need to change them, long
overdue, I know) never had firing issues. I'd suspect its not the bulb's
fault. The ignitier sounds like a good place to start.

-mat

[skozzy]

Using "solder (Lead - A soft metal that requires minimal heat to melt)" in a
high voltage/high current item is asking for trouble big time, when the
solder dries out or becomes airated it can explode, the heat can melt the
solder and cuase a fire, now that would be bad news when your not home, or
release a toxic smell/gas that will most likely effect the tank some how.

Thats my safety tip for the day.

-Andrew


"fishman" > wrote in message
...
> Any one using the Radium bulbs have any problems. I have been using one
for
> 30 days with nothing but trouble. When I switch on the ballst, I must
> unscrew the bulb slighty to get the thing to fire off. Once it comes on it
> works fine.
>
> The bulb is installed in a NIB blue wave ballast and reflector. I have
> changed out the mogul to one of higher quailty but still have the same
> problem. I have also soldered all contections. not sure what to do now.
The
> ignighter may be next.
>
>

[fishman]

I have heard this before, but from those who deal with high end audio
systems. audiofiles do not like to solder connections for speakers. I always
thought this was a easy way out for installers who would rather twist lock
wires together instead of soldering them. Most solder is 60/40 lead and
tin, so the heat required is 200-250 F to melt, indeed not very hot when
compared to the temp of a MH. But I wanted to know that my connections are
solid. At this point I hope the whole damn light fixture/balast explodes
into vapor and ash (without upseting my fish of coarse). but when I open the
thing back up to change the capacitor I'll go back to the twist nuts. thanks
for the tip


"skozzy" > wrote in message
...
> Using "solder (Lead - A soft metal that requires minimal heat to melt)" in
a
> high voltage/high current item is asking for trouble big time, when the
> solder dries out or becomes airated it can explode, the heat can melt the
> solder and cuase a fire, now that would be bad news when your not home, or
> release a toxic smell/gas that will most likely effect the tank some how.
>
> Thats my safety tip for the day.
>
> -Andrew
>
>
> "fishman" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Any one using the Radium bulbs have any problems. I have been using one
> for
> > 30 days with nothing but trouble. When I switch on the ballst, I must
> > unscrew the bulb slighty to get the thing to fire off. Once it comes on
it
> > works fine.
> >
> > The bulb is installed in a NIB blue wave ballast and reflector. I have
> > changed out the mogul to one of higher quailty but still have the same
> > problem. I have also soldered all contections. not sure what to do now.
> The
> > ignighter may be next.
> >
> >
>
>