My new tank!

[Kelly]

So I got my replacement tank and its a 46 gallon. Much better than my old
leaky 29.

Since I am breaking down another tank at the same time I am wondering if I
should use some of the other tanks equipment. Mainly the carbon filter.

My 46 will have two carbon filters one rated for a 20 and the other for a
30. Should I add a third(rated for a 20) since I have an extra anyways or
will it really matter over all? I will be running a protein skimmer aswell.
Also should I really have 2 heaters or is one 200 watt enough?

Thanks,
Kelly

[Richard Ryerson]

Kelly,

Congrats on the new tank :D

Looks like a carbon copy of what I did last year. I went from my leaky 29
gallon to a 46 gallon bow front. Next stop, 120 gallon home built acrylic!!!

For future reference a ten gallon sump fits nicely underneath 46 gallon tank
in the stock bow front stand. (if you have it pulled out from the wall about
6-8 inches.

At any rate, the heaters... If you take the advice of the heater
manufacturers, I believe they say a 150 watt heater is good for a 30-50
gallon tank. Personally, I prefer to have a backup plan. so I put 2 100 watt
heaters in the sump. While I might get flamed, I believe that a 250 watt
might be enough to cause a change in temperature too quickly. You might want
to consider that aspect.

As far as carbon filtration, what sort of carbon filters are you using? are
these hang on back biowheel type filters?

All I do is place a mesh bag filled with carbon in the sump (in a area of
high flow) and replace it every few weeks (3-4). Im not sure how much carbon
fits in it, but I beleive the bag is 4"x8" or something close to it.

-Rick

"Kelly" > wrote in message
news:t1f0c.645882$ts4.526323@pd7tw3no...
> So I got my replacement tank and its a 46 gallon. Much better than my old
> leaky 29.
>
> Since I am breaking down another tank at the same time I am wondering if I
> should use some of the other tanks equipment. Mainly the carbon filter.
>
> My 46 will have two carbon filters one rated for a 20 and the other for a
> 30. Should I add a third(rated for a 20) since I have an extra anyways or
> will it really matter over all? I will be running a protein skimmer
aswell.
> Also should I really have 2 heaters or is one 200 watt enough?
>
> Thanks,
> Kelly
>
>

[Kelly]

These are hang on the back carbon filters that came with a couple fresh
water tank kits I have gotten over the past year and a half. They don't have
Biowheels but rectangular carbon filters that slide in and out and get
replaced. I usually replace them monthly. I am not running a sump so the
backs is getting pretty full with a heater, two filters, skimmer and power
head cords etc.

I just got everything back in tonight so things are looking ok right now. I
just have stop worry about leaks now, the last two tanks made me paranoid.

[Dinky]

"Richard Ryerson" > wrote in message
...
> Kelly,
>
>
> As far as carbon filtration, what sort of carbon filters are you using?
are
> these hang on back biowheel type filters?
>


Most of my experience is with FW aquaria, where I developed the opinion that
carbon was really not needed unless trying to remove medications or
something. What's the consensus in the marine scene?


--

billy
--
Need tech help?
news://news.winextra.com

[Richard Ryerson]

*** post for FREE via your newsreader at post.newsfeed.com ***

Well I don't have much experience with these types of filters but IMO i
would think that the two 20's would be okay until you got something else.
(like a sump :D :D :D)

-Rick

PS. The sump will also allow you to have all your equipment out of the main
tank. It was so nice to not see cords and heaters hanging in the back of my
tank.


On Mon, 01 Mar 2004 07:43:38 GMT, Kelly wrote:

> These are hang on the back carbon filters that came with a couple fresh
> water tank kits I have gotten over the past year and a half. They don't have
> Biowheels but rectangular carbon filters that slide in and out and get
> replaced. I usually replace them monthly. I am not running a sump so the
> backs is getting pretty full with a heater, two filters, skimmer and power
> head cords etc.
>
> I just got everything back in tonight so things are looking ok right now. I
> just have stop worry about leaks now, the last two tanks made me paranoid.


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[Richard Ryerson]

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Activated Carbon is an important part of the marine aquarium filtration. It
removes organic "pollutants" which increases water quality and promotes the
health of marine specimens.

Types of Filtration:

Mechanical:
Prefilters, Sponges, Floss, etc. Anything that traps debris like a fuel /
oil filter would.
Biological:
Live rock, Live sand. Bacteria here breaks down ammonia, nitrite and
nitrate (deep in rock).
Denitrators (also counts as mechangical too)
Bio-Balls (also counts as mechangical too)
Chemical:
Activated Carbon
AllGone
Phosphate Sponge

On Mon, 01 Mar 2004 08:28:40 GMT, Dinky wrote:

> "Richard Ryerson" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Kelly,
>>
>>
>> As far as carbon filtration, what sort of carbon filters are you using?
> are
>> these hang on back biowheel type filters?
>>
>
>
> Most of my experience is with FW aquaria, where I developed the opinion that
> carbon was really not needed unless trying to remove medications or
> something. What's the consensus in the marine scene?


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[Richard Reynolds]

> Activated Carbon is an important part of the marine aquarium filtration. It
> removes organic "pollutants" which increases water quality and promotes the
> health of marine specimens.

right very important with out it on the exaust from your protein skimmer it will stink !!!
in a tank AC does not last long, it gets filled way to fast to be benifitial for routine
filtration.

> Denitrators (also counts as mechangical too)

uummm huhhhh????

*most* are not mechanical but biofiltration though there are some that work REALLY well
that i guess you could say might be mechanical but they run about $2000 up.

> Bio-Balls (also counts as mechangical too)

huh???

bio filtration get it "bio balls"



--
Richard Reynolds

[Kelly]

I have a 30 gallon I can use for a sump I just still don't get how that
works really. I've read Marcs article but I guess I need to read it again.
When they talk about the pump that runs the water back into the tank is that
a normal pump you see for outside ponds etc. or more like a sump pump type
thing?
"Richard Ryerson" > wrote in message
...
> *** post for FREE via your newsreader at post.newsfeed.com ***
>
> Well I don't have much experience with these types of filters but IMO i
> would think that the two 20's would be okay until you got something else.
> (like a sump :D :D :D)
>
> -Rick
>
> PS. The sump will also allow you to have all your equipment out of the
main
> tank. It was so nice to not see cords and heaters hanging in the back of
my
> tank.
>
>
> On Mon, 01 Mar 2004 07:43:38 GMT, Kelly wrote:
>
> > These are hang on the back carbon filters that came with a couple fresh
> > water tank kits I have gotten over the past year and a half. They don't
have
> > Biowheels but rectangular carbon filters that slide in and out and get
> > replaced. I usually replace them monthly. I am not running a sump so the
> > backs is getting pretty full with a heater, two filters, skimmer and
power
> > head cords etc.
> >
> > I just got everything back in tonight so things are looking ok right
now. I
> > just have stop worry about leaks now, the last two tanks made me
paranoid.
>
>
> -----= Posted via Newsfeed.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
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> -----== 100,000 Groups! - 19 Servers! - Unlimited Download! =-----
>

[Richard Ryerson]

*** post for FREE via your newsreader at post.newsfeed.com ***

Anything that traps debris is considered mechanical filtration.

>> Bio-Balls (also counts as mechangical too)
>
> huh???
>
> bio filtration get it "bio balls"

Yeah but they do trap debris too.

>> Denitrators (also counts as mechangical too)
>
> uummm huhhhh????

A lot of denitrators contain bio balls.


Me, i dont personally consider bio-balls in the mechanical range. But you
know marketeers. :)

-Rick


On Mon, 1 Mar 2004 09:56:58 -0800, Richard Reynolds wrote:

>> Activated Carbon is an important part of the marine aquarium filtration. It
>> removes organic "pollutants" which increases water quality and promotes the
>> health of marine specimens.
>
> right very important with out it on the exaust from your protein skimmer it will stink !!!
> in a tank AC does not last long, it gets filled way to fast to be benifitial for routine
> filtration.
>
>> Denitrators (also counts as mechangical too)
>
> uummm huhhhh????
>
> *most* are not mechanical but biofiltration though there are some that work REALLY well
> that i guess you could say might be mechanical but they run about $2000 up.
>
>> Bio-Balls (also counts as mechangical too)
>
> huh???
>
> bio filtration get it "bio balls"


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[Richard Ryerson]

*** post for FREE via your newsreader at post.newsfeed.com ***

> When they talk about the pump that runs the water back into the tank is that
> a normal pump you see for outside ponds etc. or more like a sump pump type
> thing?

I am sure you could use a pond pump just fine as long as the size didnt get
in your way. (i dont know how big "pond" pumps are)

What I use is a CAP 1800 for my return. It is rated at 650 GPH @ 0' (i
think 450+ at 3'). It produces a nice flow in my tank. Everything gets a
nice breeze and nothing is "blasted".

I am thinking of taking the Rio 17HF off my skimmer and switching just to
see the difference in the tank. (17HF rated at 1090 GPH 1' / 840 GPH @ 4')

(I think that is too big a pump on my Nautilus skimmer :D :D )

-Rick

On Mon, 01 Mar 2004 17:57:53 GMT, Kelly wrote:

> I have a 30 gallon I can use for a sump I just still don't get how that
> works really. I've read Marcs article but I guess I need to read it again.
> When they talk about the pump that runs the water back into the tank is that
> a normal pump you see for outside ponds etc. or more like a sump pump type
> thing?
> "Richard Ryerson" > wrote in message
> ...
>> *** post for FREE via your newsreader at post.newsfeed.com ***
>>
>> Well I don't have much experience with these types of filters but IMO i
>> would think that the two 20's would be okay until you got something else.
>> (like a sump :D :D :D)
>>
>> -Rick
>>
>> PS. The sump will also allow you to have all your equipment out of the
> main
>> tank. It was so nice to not see cords and heaters hanging in the back of
> my
>> tank.
>>
>>
>> On Mon, 01 Mar 2004 07:43:38 GMT, Kelly wrote:
>>
>>> These are hang on the back carbon filters that came with a couple fresh
>>> water tank kits I have gotten over the past year and a half. They don't
> have
>>> Biowheels but rectangular carbon filters that slide in and out and get
>>> replaced. I usually replace them monthly. I am not running a sump so the
>>> backs is getting pretty full with a heater, two filters, skimmer and
> power
>>> head cords etc.
>>>
>>> I just got everything back in tonight so things are looking ok right
> now. I
>>> just have stop worry about leaks now, the last two tanks made me
> paranoid.
>>
>>
>> -----= Posted via Newsfeed.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
>> http://www.newsfeed.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
>> -----== 100,000 Groups! - 19 Servers! - Unlimited Download! =-----
>>


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[Richard Reynolds]

> Anything that traps debris is considered mechanical filtration.

NO anything that intentionally traps debris is considered mechanical anything else is
considered a design flaw.

> > bio filtration get it "bio balls"
>
> Yeah but they do trap debris too.

not by design, and not if you have a good pre filter like your supposed to have if you use
them, they are places for bacteria to thrive and consume ammonia/nitrite. traping
anything that gets past the prefilter is a side effect of bio balls, its something your
supposed to be avoiding.

> >> Denitrators (also counts as mechangical too)
> > uummm huhhhh????
> A lot of denitrators contain bio balls.

those the pre filter is even more important the bio balls exist as places for anoxic
bacteria to thrive and consume nitrate.

> Me, i dont personally consider bio-balls in the mechanical range. But you
> know marketeers. :)

read better ads.


--
Richard Reynolds

[Richard Reynolds]

> I am sure you could use a pond pump just fine as long as the size didnt get
> in your way. (i dont know how big "pond" pumps are)

careful many pond pumps are made with metal shafts and other internal hardware, a few have
special buy replacement parts that will allow you to run that pump in SW though.

--
Richard Reynolds

[CapFusion]

"Kelly" > wrote in message
news:t1f0c.645882$ts4.526323@pd7tw3no...

> Since I am breaking down another tank at the same time I am wondering if I
> should use some of the other tanks equipment. Mainly the carbon filter.

No carbon needed


> My 46 will have two carbon filters one rated for a 20 and the other for a
> 30. Should I add a third(rated for a 20) since I have an extra anyways or
> will it really matter over all? I will be running a protein skimmer
aswell.
> Also should I really have 2 heaters or is one 200 watt enough?

No need for that carbon filter or anything like carbon filter. The only
thing carbon use for is to absorb chemical,ie... medication and such. Carbon
do not last too long. And will leak or leech back to your tank after it get
depleted.

CapFusion,...

[CapFusion]

I have not seen either outside SW pond or SW pond outdoor equimpment before
but it does not mean it does not exist or available. Normally I see pond
equipment mainly for FW only. Main problem I see in pond equipment is
generally weaker and bulkier [bigger] when compare to indoor [FW / SW]
equipement. Also, you may need to pay attention from the equipement you
about to buy indicating either "Marine" or "Sal****er" safe.

CapFusion,...



"Richard Reynolds" > wrote in message
news:ZeM0c.4543$PY.3822@lakeread05...
> > I am sure you could use a pond pump just fine as long as the size didnt
get
> > in your way. (i dont know how big "pond" pumps are)
>
> careful many pond pumps are made with metal shafts and other internal
hardware, a few have
> special buy replacement parts that will allow you to run that pump in SW
though.
>
> --
> Richard Reynolds
>
>
>

[Kelly]

I can do it without putting holes in the bottom right? That's part I don't
get. Does the pump suck the water down AND pump it back up or does gravity
suck it down?
"CapFusion" > wrote in message
...
> I have not seen either outside SW pond or SW pond outdoor equimpment
before
> but it does not mean it does not exist or available. Normally I see pond
> equipment mainly for FW only. Main problem I see in pond equipment is
> generally weaker and bulkier [bigger] when compare to indoor [FW / SW]
> equipement. Also, you may need to pay attention from the equipement you
> about to buy indicating either "Marine" or "Sal****er" safe.
>
> CapFusion,...
>
>
>
> "Richard Reynolds" > wrote in message
> news:ZeM0c.4543$PY.3822@lakeread05...
> > > I am sure you could use a pond pump just fine as long as the size
didnt
> get
> > > in your way. (i dont know how big "pond" pumps are)
> >
> > careful many pond pumps are made with metal shafts and other internal
> hardware, a few have
> > special buy replacement parts that will allow you to run that pump in SW
> though.
> >
> > --
> > Richard Reynolds
> >
> >
> >
>
>

[Kelly]

~~
No need for that carbon filter or anything like carbon filter. The only
thing carbon use for is to absorb chemical,ie... medication and such. Carbon
do not last too long. And will leak or leech back to your tank after it get
depleted.
~~

So what keeps the water clear and shiny then?

[CapFusion]

"Kelly" > wrote in message
news:1AP0c.666473$ts4.273639@pd7tw3no...
> I can do it without putting holes in the bottom right? That's part I don't
> get. Does the pump suck the water down AND pump it back up or does gravity
> suck it down?

To have water travel from your main tank to your sump/refugim without making
hole or drill one is by using a overflow-box.
Like this one from MarineDepot -
http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_overflow_boxes_cpr.asp?CartId=

The sump / refugium will be below your main tank and the overflow-bow will
let your water flow down to your sump. Depending on what thpe of
overflow-box, certain model will need to start the prime first and it all
set. From your sump / refugium will have a powerpump will push it back up to
your main tank. When your tank water get below your overflow-box minium
level, it will stop the water but as the water level go above, it will start
the flowing again.

Main Tank > Overflow [gravity]> Sump / Refugium [Pump]> Main Tank.
Example : http://www.melevsreef.com/what_sump.html
Do you see the OverFlow-Box from the main tank on it right side view?


You can also have a Sump / Refugium above the main tank but this time, the
pump will be in your main tank or external pump to push it up to your sump /
refugium.

Main Tank > Pump > Sump / Refugim > Main Tank

Example :
http://www-2.cs.cmu.edu/People/cap/pictures/myreef/refugium/index.html

Do you now get a general idea of the mechanic?

CapFusion,...

[CapFusion]

"Kelly" > wrote in message
news:lCP0c.666499$ts4.664060@pd7tw3no...
> ~~
> No need for that carbon filter or anything like carbon filter. The only
> thing carbon use for is to absorb chemical,ie... medication and such.
Carbon
> do not last too long. And will leak or leech back to your tank after it
get
> depleted.
> ~~
>
> So what keeps the water clear and shiny then?
>
The natural filter [LR / LS / PS / janitor crew / Algae [Yes, I do mean
algae]. With everything working together, it will be clear and clean.

Active carbon have three jobs.
* Main Job when it fresh = Absorb any chemical

When left in too long:
* Secondary Job after been used up of it capaccity = Leech out / leak
chemical back out.
* Third job when leave too long, it become home for your bacteria and will
start nitrate factory.

CapFusion,...

[Bill Kirkpatrick]

Well, there is nothing much wrong with using AC on occasion.
But, mostly, skimming, water changes, and denitrification
will get most of the same things carbon will. So using
carbon full-time is something of a waste of money when it is
competing with these other, cheaper, processes.

But carbon does take out a few things better than the others
and it is, IMHO, prudent to use such a cheap treatment
process on occasion. Water yellowish? Run some carbon.

In the end, it's all about economics. You can simply change
enough water and all problems are solved. This is, however,
expensive. From there it's all about keeping that salt
water "like-new" as cheaply/safely as possible. All
filtration is no more, and no less, than that. When you
look at it that way, carbon surely has a role in the number
of tradeoffs we make to avoid using fresh replacement water.

***********************
Kelly wrote:
> ~~
> No need for that carbon filter or anything like carbon filter. The only
> thing carbon use for is to absorb chemical,ie... medication and such. Carbon
> do not last too long. And will leak or leech back to your tank after it get
> depleted.
> ~~
>
> So what keeps the water clear and shiny then?

[Kelly]

I see thanks, I thought I had to pump the water down through a pipe but I
get how this works thanks.

As long as I keep the sump not full I shouldn't have to worry about the
power going out and the sump flooding right? Figure out what the pump lines
the overflow&pipes hold then subtract that from the total of the ref?

[Kelly]

Well thanks for all your help everyone, I think I will take them off. I
would hate to forget about them for a week or two and start poisoning the
tank with nitrates.




"Bill Kirkpatrick" > wrote in message
...
> Well, there is nothing much wrong with using AC on occasion.
> But, mostly, skimming, water changes, and denitrification
> will get most of the same things carbon will. So using
> carbon full-time is something of a waste of money when it is
> competing with these other, cheaper, processes.
>
> But carbon does take out a few things better than the others
> and it is, IMHO, prudent to use such a cheap treatment
> process on occasion. Water yellowish? Run some carbon.
>
> In the end, it's all about economics. You can simply change
> enough water and all problems are solved. This is, however,
> expensive. From there it's all about keeping that salt
> water "like-new" as cheaply/safely as possible. All
> filtration is no more, and no less, than that. When you
> look at it that way, carbon surely has a role in the number
> of tradeoffs we make to avoid using fresh replacement water.
>
> ***********************
> Kelly wrote:
> > ~~
> > No need for that carbon filter or anything like carbon filter. The only
> > thing carbon use for is to absorb chemical,ie... medication and such.
Carbon
> > do not last too long. And will leak or leech back to your tank after it
get
> > depleted.
> > ~~
> >
> > So what keeps the water clear and shiny then?

[Marc Levenson]

Please read that page one more time, paragraph by paragraph. All those details
that you are trying to understand are right there, answering each of the
questions you've asked in this thread.

http://www.melevsreef.com/what_sump.html

Marc


Kelly wrote:

> I see thanks, I thought I had to pump the water down through a pipe but I
> get how this works thanks.
>
> As long as I keep the sump not full I shouldn't have to worry about the
> power going out and the sump flooding right? Figure out what the pump lines
> the overflow&pipes hold then subtract that from the total of the ref?

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[CapFusion]

"Kelly" > wrote in message news:RoR0c.667397$ts4.225@pd7tw3no...
> Well thanks for all your help everyone, I think I will take them off. I
> would hate to forget about them for a week or two and start poisoning the
> tank with nitrates.
>

Kelly,
First, I do not want to get you misinform regarding carbon and nitrate when
left in for a long period. Carbon and any other corse material like
mechanical Bios-Filter will cause nitrate factor which due to bacteria
living in that spore / course area.

Secondly, due to econonic according to Bill Kirkpatrick post, yes it will
cost you a small amount $$ just to clean out chemical / medication ...etc or
even just to remove yellowish from your water when you can use other mean of
filteration.

I do not see any real benefit of having carbon in marine tank EXCEPT when
you run medication or some kind of chemical that need to remove as soon as
possible from the tank. This will require the carbon and the other
filteration you have and plus water changes. But will need to remove as soon
you do not need it anymore.

Carbon is optinal

CapFusion,...

[CapFusion]

"Kelly" > wrote in message
news:JlR0c.667389$ts4.147190@pd7tw3no...
> I see thanks, I thought I had to pump the water down through a pipe but I
> get how this works thanks.
>
> As long as I keep the sump not full I shouldn't have to worry about the
> power going out and the sump flooding right? Figure out what the pump
lines
> the overflow&pipes hold then subtract that from the total of the ref?
>

Hummm.....
Maybe I did not explan correctly or my English need to be polish abit.

Main key from flooding either the sump or the tank is by water-level you
preset. You may need to adjust it by moving it up or down. The most common
place to adjst this water level is from overflow-box or where the water
enter. When water go below the minium level, either due to power lost or
powerpump failure from the sump side, water will not continue to travel due
to low water level. When either your power is backup or your powerpump start
again, it will push more water to the main tank to increase your water level
to the point it will start your overflow-box. The overflow-box is still
prime and should continue when more water come in or added to it.

Water level is the key and overflow-box is the mean of water travel out of
your tank.

CapFusion,...

[CapFusion]

"Marc Levenson" > wrote in message
...
> Please read that page one more time, paragraph by paragraph. All those
details
> that you are trying to understand are right there, answering each of the
> questions you've asked in this thread.
>
> http://www.melevsreef.com/what_sump.html
>
> Marc

Maybe he need to goto one of those LFS and see how their OverFlow-Box w/Sump
work or goto your place and see your setup.

CapFusion,...

[Kelly]

Thanks Cap I get it all now. It was my LFS that had me confused :)
"CapFusion" <CapFusion...@hotmail..,com> wrote in message
...
>
> "Kelly" > wrote in message
> news:JlR0c.667389$ts4.147190@pd7tw3no...
> > I see thanks, I thought I had to pump the water down through a pipe but
I
> > get how this works thanks.
> >
> > As long as I keep the sump not full I shouldn't have to worry about the
> > power going out and the sump flooding right? Figure out what the pump
> lines
> > the overflow&pipes hold then subtract that from the total of the ref?
> >
>
> Hummm.....
> Maybe I did not explan correctly or my English need to be polish abit.
>
> Main key from flooding either the sump or the tank is by water-level you
> preset. You may need to adjust it by moving it up or down. The most common
> place to adjst this water level is from overflow-box or where the water
> enter. When water go below the minium level, either due to power lost or
> powerpump failure from the sump side, water will not continue to travel
due
> to low water level. When either your power is backup or your powerpump
start
> again, it will push more water to the main tank to increase your water
level
> to the point it will start your overflow-box. The overflow-box is still
> prime and should continue when more water come in or added to it.
>
> Water level is the key and overflow-box is the mean of water travel out of
> your tank.
>
> CapFusion,...
>
>

[Kelly]

> I do not see any real benefit of having carbon in marine tank EXCEPT when
> you run medication or some kind of chemical that need to remove as soon as
> possible from the tank. This will require the carbon and the other
> filteration you have and plus water changes. But will need to remove as
soon
> you do not need it anymore.
>
> Carbon is optinal
>
> CapFusion,...

Mainly, I was using it to clear out whatever particles got floating in the
water. For instance
when my urchin lets out his waste the tank gets very dirty, lots of stuff
floating around. I assumed
the current wouldn't let any of the debris stop floating to become
stationary on the sand bed
or the LR. I take it this is why some people run straight sponges in a
filter?

[CapFusion]

"Kelly" > wrote in message
news:1v81c.650601$JQ1.292488@pd7tw1no...
>
> Mainly, I was using it to clear out whatever particles got floating in the
> water. For instance
> when my urchin lets out his waste the tank gets very dirty, lots of stuff
> floating around. I assumed
> the current wouldn't let any of the debris stop floating to become
> stationary on the sand bed
> or the LR. I take it this is why some people run straight sponges in a
> filter?
>
People use sponge is to prevent any debris like fine sand or any critter
like urchin or sponge or octopus that can crawl in or go through the grill /
strain / teeth / cumb / mesh from intake [powerhead/pump/canister ..etc...]
This sponge filter need to remove or clean regulary or else will be another
area for your bacteria to live in and cause nitrate factory.

If you have a fairly good current, any waste or debris should be get rid of
by intake / input of a mechanical device [powerpump/overflow/PS .. etc...]

If you are worry about any critter that will caught or go through that
intake, you can try setup a safe passage to your sump from prevent get
chop-up / dice on the other end.
Use a gravity method to have the water flow from your overflow drainage or
overflow box to your sump. The first chamber will catch any debris or
critter. To get to another chamber of your sump, it will need to travel
through alot of rubble or small holes and upward section and to overflow
wall before it get to the second chamber. Whatever next series of chamber,
you can house whatever you want like PS / Heater / DSB ... etc... Any
nitrate will get absorb by my Algae farm if it ever get to this stage. This
is in the middle section where my DSB / LR / Algae located. Last chamber
where the end product water to travel back to your main tank by mean of
powerpump.

This is my way or method without sponge.

CapFusion,...