Tuning a Nautilus TE

[Richard Ryerson]

Just got a Nautilus TE recently and there is very little info about getting
it tuned.

With my Prizm it told you to adjust so the lower level of bubbles came up to
the o-ring around the chamber. Nothing like that with my Nautilus.

I decided to adjust it so I was getting some "stuff" in the collection cup
and it did work, however I believe that in this configuration (the water
pressure / level rising into the cone) it is running very inefficiently.

Any one got some ideas?

-Rick

[Ross Bagley]

"Richard Ryerson" > writes:

> Just got a Nautilus TE recently and there is very little info about getting
> it tuned.
>
> With my Prizm it told you to adjust so the lower level of bubbles came up to
> the o-ring around the chamber. Nothing like that with my Nautilus.
>
> I decided to adjust it so I was getting some "stuff" in the collection cup
> and it did work, however I believe that in this configuration (the water
> pressure / level rising into the cone) it is running very inefficiently.
>
> Any one got some ideas?

Have patience.

I've never owned that brand of skimmer but my advice for anyone
installing a new skimmer is to set it up conservatively, wait, and see
what happens.

Put the collection cup at the top of the adjustment range and wait for
at least a week before getting worried. If you choose to locate the
collection cup lower during this time frame, I strongly recommend that
you locate the skimmer so that if the collection cup overflows, it
flows back into the tank or sump.

Acrylic will often have small amounts of releasing agents and cleaning
agents (oils) present on the various surfaces inside the skimmer.
These will interfere with effective skimming during the common
"skimmer break-in" period (which can take anywhere from 24 hours to a
week or so).

If, after a week, there's still no real foam, give the manufacturer a
call and see if they have any suggestions.

Regards,
Ross

-- Ross Bagley http://rossbagley.com/rba
"Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature...
Life is either a daring adventure or nothing." -- Helen Keller

[Paul Schnettler]

Richard Ryerson wrote:
> Just got a Nautilus TE recently and there is very little info about getting
> it tuned.
>
> With my Prizm it told you to adjust so the lower level of bubbles came up to
> the o-ring around the chamber. Nothing like that with my Nautilus.
>
> I decided to adjust it so I was getting some "stuff" in the collection cup
> and it did work, however I believe that in this configuration (the water
> pressure / level rising into the cone) it is running very inefficiently.
>
> Any one got some ideas?
>
> -Rick
>
>
I set mine up so that the bubbles/foam just reaches the top of the tube
with the collection cup removed. the foam will travel up the cone and
collect in the cup, liquid should be really funky and dark in no time.
adjust depending on level of waste that collects will vary over the
first couple of weeks dependant on waste removal efficiency. I clean the
whole unit every 3 months or so.
If it's adjusted too high the waste collected will be a lighter brown
and fill the collection cup rather quickly (mine fills in about a week).
good luck, feel free to ask me any q's.
Paul S.

[Richard Ryerson]

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> I set mine up so that the bubbles/foam just reaches the top of the tube
> with the collection cup removed.

Do you mean the top of the main body? (I.e. where the collection cup sits)

Also, do you have any problems with bubbles returning to the sump, even
with the sponge baffle attached to the exhaust tube?

-Rick


On Mon, 01 Mar 2004 08:11:31 -0600, Paul Schnettler wrote:

> Richard Ryerson wrote:
>> Just got a Nautilus TE recently and there is very little info about getting
>> it tuned.
>>
>> With my Prizm it told you to adjust so the lower level of bubbles came up to
>> the o-ring around the chamber. Nothing like that with my Nautilus.
>>
>> I decided to adjust it so I was getting some "stuff" in the collection cup
>> and it did work, however I believe that in this configuration (the water
>> pressure / level rising into the cone) it is running very inefficiently.
>>
>> Any one got some ideas?
>>
>> -Rick
>>
>>
> I set mine up so that the bubbles/foam just reaches the top of the tube
> with the collection cup removed. the foam will travel up the cone and
> collect in the cup, liquid should be really funky and dark in no time.
> adjust depending on level of waste that collects will vary over the
> first couple of weeks dependant on waste removal efficiency. I clean the
> whole unit every 3 months or so.
> If it's adjusted too high the waste collected will be a lighter brown
> and fill the collection cup rather quickly (mine fills in about a week).
> good luck, feel free to ask me any q's.
> Paul S.


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[Paul Schnettler]

Richard Ryerson wrote:

>>I set mine up so that the bubbles/foam just reaches the top of the tube
>>with the collection cup removed.
>
>
> Do you mean the top of the main body? (I.e. where the collection cup sits)
yes, right at the black ring.

>
> Also, do you have any problems with bubbles returning to the sump, even
> with the sponge baffle attached to the exhaust tube?
no not really, my return pump inlet sits about 6 inches from the skimmer
output tube and I don't see any problems with bubbles. I get a little
bit of turbulence when I add water every other day (1/2 gal or so) but
it hasen't caused me any problems.

>
> -Rick

[Richard Ryerson]

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I am so anxious about all this.

I am beginning to think that everything is wrong with the setup now.

It's been running several days now and the output is next to nil.

Using my Salifert Org test last week, I got a reading of low pollutants.
Good thing. But my skimmer (Prizm) has always produced the thickest,
nastiest looking stuff you had ever seen. It would produce about a cup a
day.

After putting this new skimmer on it, I haven't gotten really anything to
speak of. One night I set it up really high and got it to produce a lot of
light green/brown water. That was because I set it so the water column
barely spilled out over the cone in the collection cup.

This was enough to coat the underside of the collection cup and cone with a
light dark film, much like the Prizm would do.

When you watch the skimmer it does appear that any of the bubbles surfaces
are retaining any strength. They rise to the black ring (or anywhere else i
set the level at) and disepate to atmosphere. (Like a skimmer going flat
because you did something in the tank, like cleaning)

Everything "looks" okay with the skimmer (besides the bubbles venting to
atmosphere so easily). In the reaction chamber is shows a large whirlling
mass of fine air bubbles. You can not see through it. No bubbles are
returning to the sump through the return / exhaust. (My bubble trouble is
due to the drop from the exhaust to the water level)

I am only slightly concerned about my pump I am using for the skimmer. It
is a Rio 17HF rated at 1090 GPH @ 1'. This is about 20% larger than
recommended, but considering the 90 degree angle it takes to get into the
skimmer, I figure it will even out. Besides, it doesn't show any of the
normal indications that it is overpowered. However, I do throttle back the
air intake slightly. If I don't the pump cavitates to much and it ends up
"bouncing" water level in the skimmer...

I do have a CAP 1800 I was thinking of using, but I think this is too
underpowered. (650 GPH)

Certainly by now it should be showing signs of normal operation. I don't
expect it to start producing 10 gallons of scum since the Org is low in the
tank anyway. But I should see signs of something.

Am I overreacting?

Think the pump is to powerful?

-Rick




On Tue, 02 Mar 2004 07:03:45 -0600, Paul Schnettler wrote:

> Richard Ryerson wrote:
>
>>>I set mine up so that the bubbles/foam just reaches the top of the tube
>>>with the collection cup removed.
>>
>>
>> Do you mean the top of the main body? (I.e. where the collection cup sits)
> yes, right at the black ring.
>
>>
>> Also, do you have any problems with bubbles returning to the sump, even
>> with the sponge baffle attached to the exhaust tube?
> no not really, my return pump inlet sits about 6 inches from the skimmer
> output tube and I don't see any problems with bubbles. I get a little
> bit of turbulence when I add water every other day (1/2 gal or so) but
> it hasen't caused me any problems.
>
>>
>> -Rick


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[Paul Schnettler]

Richard Ryerson wrote:
> *** post for FREE via your newsreader at post.newsfeed.com ***
>
> I am so anxious about all this.
>
> I am beginning to think that everything is wrong with the setup now.
>
> It's been running several days now and the output is next to nil.
>
> Using my Salifert Org test last week, I got a reading of low pollutants.
> Good thing. But my skimmer (Prizm) has always produced the thickest,
> nastiest looking stuff you had ever seen. It would produce about a cup a
> day.
>
> After putting this new skimmer on it, I haven't gotten really anything to
> speak of. One night I set it up really high and got it to produce a lot of
> light green/brown water. That was because I set it so the water column
> barely spilled out over the cone in the collection cup.
>
> This was enough to coat the underside of the collection cup and cone with a
> light dark film, much like the Prizm would do.
>
> When you watch the skimmer it does appear that any of the bubbles surfaces
> are retaining any strength. They rise to the black ring (or anywhere else i
> set the level at) and disepate to atmosphere. (Like a skimmer going flat
> because you did something in the tank, like cleaning)
>
> Everything "looks" okay with the skimmer (besides the bubbles venting to
> atmosphere so easily). In the reaction chamber is shows a large whirlling
> mass of fine air bubbles. You can not see through it. No bubbles are
> returning to the sump through the return / exhaust. (My bubble trouble is
> due to the drop from the exhaust to the water level)
>
> I am only slightly concerned about my pump I am using for the skimmer. It
> is a Rio 17HF rated at 1090 GPH @ 1'. This is about 20% larger than
> recommended, but considering the 90 degree angle it takes to get into the
> skimmer, I figure it will even out. Besides, it doesn't show any of the
> normal indications that it is overpowered. However, I do throttle back the
> air intake slightly. If I don't the pump cavitates to much and it ends up
> "bouncing" water level in the skimmer...
>
> I do have a CAP 1800 I was thinking of using, but I think this is too
> underpowered. (650 GPH)
>
> Certainly by now it should be showing signs of normal operation. I don't
> expect it to start producing 10 gallons of scum since the Org is low in the
> tank anyway. But I should see signs of something.
>
> Am I overreacting?
>
> Think the pump is to powerful?
>
> -Rick
Rick,
I think my TE is running off a 900 or 1000 GPH pump, less than 3" from
skimmer base, I too put a valve inline to control the flow.
I get light to dark green "water" in the collection cup and a light to
dark brown slime/film on the cone that I lightly rinse/scrub off
whenever I empty the cup. the foam is supposed to travel up the cone and
break/ dissipate at the point where the foam falls into the collection
area of the cup. If it looks like foam is collecting in the cup and not
breaking up, you will have a full cup in very short order as the liquid
that collects will tend to break up the foam as well.
The idea "as I understand it" is for the foam column to build in the
skimmer body and get forced up the tube via all the other bubble action
made in the turbulent vortex area near the water/pump inlet. the bubbles
need to break right at the transition zone where some ambient air
pressure causes them to collapse, if that happens in the
bubble/air/water column the crud just has to travel the bubble path all
over again, if the bubbles break right at the top of the cone and
subsequently cause the grunge to fall into the collection area, you have
it working correctly/optimally.
I occasionally have to slightly adjust my return tube if I've made
changes to the tank or I come home from a business trip and find my wife
has overfed the fish and notice the skimmate is a bit lighter or darker
than normal.
I'll try to find my original info on my exact setup and get back to you
on the optimal pump rate for the TE.

my reef is 2 1/2 yrs old.
I've got 80 lbs.LS and 110-120 lbs. LR in my 75 gal. sump is a tidepool
with biowheel and all I have in the trays are a layer of blue and a
layer of white floss. Never had a problem w/ nitrates and organics seem
to be effectively negated with the LE skimmer.
Paul

[Richard Ryerson]

Paul,

Thanks for the help. Tonight I was playing around with it, trying different
things and got a setup that is working.

I reduced the size of the hose from the pump to the skimmer, from 7/8" to
3/4" and put in a throttling value inline. That seemed to allow me to run
the air intake wide open.

Taking off the collection cup and setting the water line to the very top of
the black ring, produces a lot of thick bubbles up the cone and spills
almost dry over the top.

The only problem now is it is spilling some fine bubbles back into the sump,
which some do end up in the tank. But that is for another day.

Thanks again,

Rick

"Paul Schnettler" > wrote in message
...
>
>
> Richard Ryerson wrote:
> > *** post for FREE via your newsreader at post.newsfeed.com ***
> >
> > I am so anxious about all this.
> >
> > I am beginning to think that everything is wrong with the setup now.
> >
> > It's been running several days now and the output is next to nil.
> >
> > Using my Salifert Org test last week, I got a reading of low pollutants.
> > Good thing. But my skimmer (Prizm) has always produced the thickest,
> > nastiest looking stuff you had ever seen. It would produce about a cup a
> > day.
> >
> > After putting this new skimmer on it, I haven't gotten really anything
to
> > speak of. One night I set it up really high and got it to produce a lot
of
> > light green/brown water. That was because I set it so the water column
> > barely spilled out over the cone in the collection cup.
> >
> > This was enough to coat the underside of the collection cup and cone
with a
> > light dark film, much like the Prizm would do.
> >
> > When you watch the skimmer it does appear that any of the bubbles
surfaces
> > are retaining any strength. They rise to the black ring (or anywhere
else i
> > set the level at) and disepate to atmosphere. (Like a skimmer going flat
> > because you did something in the tank, like cleaning)
> >
> > Everything "looks" okay with the skimmer (besides the bubbles venting to
> > atmosphere so easily). In the reaction chamber is shows a large
whirlling
> > mass of fine air bubbles. You can not see through it. No bubbles are
> > returning to the sump through the return / exhaust. (My bubble trouble
is
> > due to the drop from the exhaust to the water level)
> >
> > I am only slightly concerned about my pump I am using for the skimmer.
It
> > is a Rio 17HF rated at 1090 GPH @ 1'. This is about 20% larger than
> > recommended, but considering the 90 degree angle it takes to get into
the
> > skimmer, I figure it will even out. Besides, it doesn't show any of the
> > normal indications that it is overpowered. However, I do throttle back
the
> > air intake slightly. If I don't the pump cavitates to much and it ends
up
> > "bouncing" water level in the skimmer...
> >
> > I do have a CAP 1800 I was thinking of using, but I think this is too
> > underpowered. (650 GPH)
> >
> > Certainly by now it should be showing signs of normal operation. I don't
> > expect it to start producing 10 gallons of scum since the Org is low in
the
> > tank anyway. But I should see signs of something.
> >
> > Am I overreacting?
> >
> > Think the pump is to powerful?
> >
> > -Rick
> Rick,
> I think my TE is running off a 900 or 1000 GPH pump, less than 3" from
> skimmer base, I too put a valve inline to control the flow.
> I get light to dark green "water" in the collection cup and a light to
> dark brown slime/film on the cone that I lightly rinse/scrub off
> whenever I empty the cup. the foam is supposed to travel up the cone and
> break/ dissipate at the point where the foam falls into the collection
> area of the cup. If it looks like foam is collecting in the cup and not
> breaking up, you will have a full cup in very short order as the liquid
> that collects will tend to break up the foam as well.
> The idea "as I understand it" is for the foam column to build in the
> skimmer body and get forced up the tube via all the other bubble action
> made in the turbulent vortex area near the water/pump inlet. the bubbles
> need to break right at the transition zone where some ambient air
> pressure causes them to collapse, if that happens in the
> bubble/air/water column the crud just has to travel the bubble path all
> over again, if the bubbles break right at the top of the cone and
> subsequently cause the grunge to fall into the collection area, you have
> it working correctly/optimally.
> I occasionally have to slightly adjust my return tube if I've made
> changes to the tank or I come home from a business trip and find my wife
> has overfed the fish and notice the skimmate is a bit lighter or darker
> than normal.
> I'll try to find my original info on my exact setup and get back to you
> on the optimal pump rate for the TE.
>
> my reef is 2 1/2 yrs old.
> I've got 80 lbs.LS and 110-120 lbs. LR in my 75 gal. sump is a tidepool
> with biowheel and all I have in the trays are a layer of blue and a
> layer of white floss. Never had a problem w/ nitrates and organics seem
> to be effectively negated with the LE skimmer.
> Paul
>