How do these float switches work?

[burl135]

What powers the float switch? How does the powerhead plug in or get power
to run. I really want to get this $6.00 switch over a $60.00 one. Please
advise...

Thanks Burl135
**********************************

Liquid Level Float Switch



THESE ARE NEW TOP QUALITY

ALL PLASTIC NO METAL PARTS TO RUST.

Use them with hydroponics gardening, aquariums for power head control,
boats, air condition drain pans, reef aquarium, fluid control, or what ever
your project may be.

[Pszemol]

Think of it as of a switch which closes the circuit between two wires
when the level is above the treshold line and opens when the level is
below the treshold line. Or the opposite way if you install it reversed.

In terms of wiring this thing straight to the powerhead it depends if
you want to have full 110V on the switch or not. If so, just put the
switch in series with the pump and it should be ok. If not, you need to
have a relay and low voltage power supply matching the relay coil...
Than you connect relay coil, you level switch and the power supply
in series, and the pump, load contacts of the relay and mains on the
other end. If not sure ask more questions or contact electrician...

"burl135" > wrote in message ...
> What powers the float switch? How does the powerhead plug in or get power
> to run. I really want to get this $6.00 switch over a $60.00 one. Please
> advise...
>
> Thanks Burl135
> **********************************
>
> Liquid Level Float Switch
>
>
>
> THESE ARE NEW TOP QUALITY
>
> ALL PLASTIC NO METAL PARTS TO RUST.
>
> Use them with hydroponics gardening, aquariums for power head control,
> boats, air condition drain pans, reef aquarium, fluid control, or what ever
> your project may be.
>
>
>
>

[burl135]

Are you saying I need to splice into one side of the wire of my powerhead in
order to operate the switch? In addition, would I just plug the powerhead
into a socket to power the float switch, which in turn would energize the
powerhead upon low level? I really didn't want to cut my powerhead plug,
but I guess it would be worth not spending $60.00 for the expensive float
switches. Thanks...
"Pszemol" > wrote in message
...
> Think of it as of a switch which closes the circuit between two wires
> when the level is above the treshold line and opens when the level is
> below the treshold line. Or the opposite way if you install it reversed.
>
> In terms of wiring this thing straight to the powerhead it depends if
> you want to have full 110V on the switch or not. If so, just put the
> switch in series with the pump and it should be ok. If not, you need to
> have a relay and low voltage power supply matching the relay coil...
> Than you connect relay coil, you level switch and the power supply
> in series, and the pump, load contacts of the relay and mains on the
> other end. If not sure ask more questions or contact electrician...
>
> "burl135" > wrote in message
...
> > What powers the float switch? How does the powerhead plug in or get
power
> > to run. I really want to get this $6.00 switch over a $60.00 one.
Please
> > advise...
> >
> > Thanks Burl135
> > **********************************
> >
> > Liquid Level Float Switch
> >
> >
> >
> > THESE ARE NEW TOP QUALITY
> >
> > ALL PLASTIC NO METAL PARTS TO RUST.
> >
> > Use them with hydroponics gardening, aquariums for power head control,
> > boats, air condition drain pans, reef aquarium, fluid control, or what
ever
> > your project may be.
> >
> >
> >
> >

[Richard Reynolds]

> Are you saying I need to splice into one side of the wire of my powerhead in
> order to operate the switch? In addition, would I just plug the powerhead
> into a socket to power the float switch, which in turn would energize the
> powerhead upon low level? I really didn't want to cut my powerhead plug,
> but I guess it would be worth not spending $60.00 for the expensive float
> switches. Thanks...

it really does depend on exactly which float switch, however dont cut the power plug!
assuming a 125V float switch go to homedepot and buy 2 3 prong plugs a M and F wire them
up with the float switch in the middle, itll cost all of $4


--
Richard Reynolds

[Bob Parkins]

I wouldn't use the switches for full AC power. While 120V in the sump is an
issue all of its own, I would think that the gauge of wire on the FS is
awfully small to handle 120V.... I strongly suggest using a relay.

"Richard Reynolds" > wrote in message
news:91v4c.1188$F91.1118@lakeread05...
> > Are you saying I need to splice into one side of the wire of my
powerhead in
> > order to operate the switch? In addition, would I just plug the
powerhead
> > into a socket to power the float switch, which in turn would energize
the
> > powerhead upon low level? I really didn't want to cut my powerhead
plug,
> > but I guess it would be worth not spending $60.00 for the expensive
float
> > switches. Thanks...
>
> it really does depend on exactly which float switch, however dont cut the
power plug!
> assuming a 125V float switch go to homedepot and buy 2 3 prong plugs a M
and F wire them
> up with the float switch in the middle, itll cost all of $4
>
>
> --
> Richard Reynolds
>
>
>

[Pszemol]

"burl135" > wrote in message ...
> Are you saying I need to splice into one side of the wire of my powerhead in
> order to operate the switch? In addition, would I just plug the powerhead
> into a socket to power the float switch, which in turn would energize the
> powerhead upon low level? I really didn't want to cut my powerhead plug,
> but I guess it would be worth not spending $60.00 for the expensive float
> switches. Thanks...

No, by "put in series" I did not mean to splice the powerhead wire.
I was rather thinking about purchasing an extra connection box
and installing a regular 110V socket inside to plug the powerhead.
The power to the socket would pass through the switch if closed.

As we all suggest - it is wise to use low voltage for the switch
and energize only a relay coil with it leaving 110V out of the sump.

[Bob Parkins]

Here is a link to mine..... do not be scared by the price or intimidated if
it looks too hard... you CAN do it. If you already have wire, wire-nuts,
PH, etc.... there is a significant amount of savings and you don't even have
to add the lights.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=326459

[burl135]

I want to thank everyone for the insight and information. All this talk of
relays and coils are beyond my electrical expertise at the moment. I need
to brush up on basic electrical ins and outs. I will take the suggestions,
but for now I'll just place a standard electrical plug unit and switch to
manually control my top offs as needed. I was just so tried of plugging in
and unplugging my powerhead to top off. In the meantime, I'll try to figure
out this relay coil stuff...
Thanks...Burl135

"Pszemol" > wrote in message
...
> "burl135" > wrote in message
...
> > Are you saying I need to splice into one side of the wire of my
powerhead in
> > order to operate the switch? In addition, would I just plug the
powerhead
> > into a socket to power the float switch, which in turn would energize
the
> > powerhead upon low level? I really didn't want to cut my powerhead
plug,
> > but I guess it would be worth not spending $60.00 for the expensive
float
> > switches. Thanks...
>
> No, by "put in series" I did not mean to splice the powerhead wire.
> I was rather thinking about purchasing an extra connection box
> and installing a regular 110V socket inside to plug the powerhead.
> The power to the socket would pass through the switch if closed.
>
> As we all suggest - it is wise to use low voltage for the switch
> and energize only a relay coil with it leaving 110V out of the sump.

[Marc Levenson]

Burl,

It is quite easy. The majority of people don't recommend this system, but it
does work. There simply is a risk.

Take a 6 foot extension cord, it should resemble lamp cord. Looking at the
cord, you can see two wires running parrallel, covered in plastic. You are
going to have to separate the two wires.

Take a razor blade and cut into the plastic along the seam (between the two
wires). Do this around the middle of the cord.

Take one wire, and cut it in half.

At this point you should have an extension cord with one perfectly good wire
running from the plug to the other (outlet) end. The other wire is cut.

Trim off about 1/4 to 1/2" of the insulating plastic on each piece.

Take one of the wires from the float switch, twist it with one of the wires of
the extension cord. Cover it with a wire nut.

Take the other wire from the float switch, and do the same.

Now, plug in the extension cord into a nearby outlet.

Plug in a small powerhead into the end of the extension cord.

Test the float switch. Moving it down (away from the red wires) will make the
pump turn on. Lifting the float up (toward the wires) will turn off the pump.

If it does not work as I described, you can pry off the plastic tab under the
float, and slide the float off the central rod. Flip it over, put it back in
place and put the tab back where it was.

Test it again.

I'm using a float just like this on my 29g's sump. I added a ziplock bag over
the wiring with the wire nuts, and tied it with a zip tie to keep it dry no
matter what. You could do the same with a rubber band.

Hopefully this will get you on the road to a DIY project. If you can do this,
you'll be ready for the next step... the world of relays. :)

Marc


burl135 wrote:

> I want to thank everyone for the insight and information. All this talk of
> relays and coils are beyond my electrical expertise at the moment. I need
> to brush up on basic electrical ins and outs. I will take the suggestions,
> but for now I'll just place a standard electrical plug unit and switch to
> manually control my top offs as needed. I was just so tried of plugging in
> and unplugging my powerhead to top off. In the meantime, I'll try to figure
> out this relay coil stuff...
> Thanks...Burl135
>
> "Pszemol" > wrote in message
> ...
> > "burl135" > wrote in message
> ...
> > > Are you saying I need to splice into one side of the wire of my
> powerhead in
> > > order to operate the switch? In addition, would I just plug the
> powerhead
> > > into a socket to power the float switch, which in turn would energize
> the
> > > powerhead upon low level? I really didn't want to cut my powerhead
> plug,
> > > but I guess it would be worth not spending $60.00 for the expensive
> float
> > > switches. Thanks...
> >
> > No, by "put in series" I did not mean to splice the powerhead wire.
> > I was rather thinking about purchasing an extra connection box
> > and installing a regular 110V socket inside to plug the powerhead.
> > The power to the socket would pass through the switch if closed.
> >
> > As we all suggest - it is wise to use low voltage for the switch
> > and energize only a relay coil with it leaving 110V out of the sump.

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[Richard Reynolds]

> It is quite easy. The majority of people don't recommend this system, but it
> does work. There simply is a risk.

I agree with marc, the *real* risk isnt as high as a few ppl have implied, just as long as
your water proofing is good. it would be best if all your wiring and wingnutz are as far
from your sump as you can make them, but if they are not then, I would use a waterproof
extension cord, they are available in short lengths. also if you want protection add a
fuse on the cut wire between the male end and the float switch, you can get inline fuse
holders at almost any auto parts store, get a fast blow fuse higher than the pumps draw.

--
Richard Reynolds

[Bob Parkins]

> I agree with marc, the *real* risk isnt as high as a few ppl have implied,
just as long as
> your water proofing is good. it would be best if all your wiring and
wingnutz are as far
> from your sump as you can make them, but if they are not then, I would use
a waterproof
> extension cord, they are available in short lengths. also if you want
protection add a
> fuse on the cut wire between the male end and the float switch, you can
get inline fuse
> holders at almost any auto parts store, get a fast blow fuse higher than
the pumps draw.

Fuse is a good idea.
I don't know if it is enough protection for the wire-gauge issue.... I think
the FS comes with ~22-24 gauge wire. This in the middle of the extension
cord seems more than a little risky to me, but I'm not an electrician. It
could very well not be as big of a problem as I think but personally I would
be very concerned about an electrical fire. Any electricians out there to
dispel the myths?

[Marc Levenson]

What a great idea! What size fuse do you think is appropriate? It has to be equal or higher
than the float switch obviously.

Marc


Richard Reynolds wrote:

> > It is quite easy. The majority of people don't recommend this system, but it
> > does work. There simply is a risk.
>
> I agree with marc, the *real* risk isnt as high as a few ppl have implied, just as long as
> your water proofing is good. it would be best if all your wiring and wingnutz are as far
> from your sump as you can make them, but if they are not then, I would use a waterproof
> extension cord, they are available in short lengths. also if you want protection add a
> fuse on the cut wire between the male end and the float switch, you can get inline fuse
> holders at almost any auto parts store, get a fast blow fuse higher than the pumps draw.
>
> --
> Richard Reynolds
>

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[Richard Reynolds]

> Fuse is a good idea.
:D
> I don't know if it is enough protection for the wire-gauge issue....

this isnt to protect the wire, IF the wire has a short to ground the fuse blows, its more
of a CYA and an oops now what.

> I think
> the FS comes with ~22-24 gauge wire.
a small pump can be ran off smaller guage wire, the length is an issue, you dont want 20
feet of it,

>This in the middle of the extension
> cord seems more than a little risky to me,

first off, I cant really argue this wither way with an "extension cord" you *MUST* pick
one that is of sufficient wire guage and thick enough shielding to do the job, and only
*AFTER* that is it safe, if it could come in contact with water, then you *MUST* pick one
that is wireproof. neither of these are really rocket science and add little to no cost
to build



--
Richard Reynolds

[Richard Reynolds]

> What a great idea! What size fuse do you think is appropriate? It has to be equal or
higher
> than the float switch obviously.

actually its best to go below or equal to the float but above the pump. let a $.20 fuse
blow before a $$$ float switch. which one you pick depends on the pump,

--
Richard Reynolds

[Richard Reynolds]

damn replace "this wither way" with "this either way"

--
Richard Reynolds

[Bob Parkins]

Would I benifit from adding a fuse to my 12V DC float-switch, or is it
unlikely 12V would blow the switch?


"Richard Reynolds" > wrote in message
news:iD85c.2948$F91.933@lakeread05...
> > What a great idea! What size fuse do you think is appropriate? It has
to be equal or
> higher
> > than the float switch obviously.
>
> actually its best to go below or equal to the float but above the pump.
let a $.20 fuse
> blow before a $$$ float switch. which one you pick depends on the pump,
>
> --
> Richard Reynolds
>
>
>

[Richard Reynolds]

> Would I benifit from adding a fuse to my 12V DC float-switch, or is it
> unlikely 12V would blow the switch?

you would always benifit in a fuse,

how much benifit, where you put it, and its rating well thats a different story, and
there is a chance(dont count on it, check first) that your wall transformer has one built
in. the more expensive ones even have resettable or even self resetting fuses.

for low current fuses you will have to go to an electronics store, not an auto parts or
home center type of store. it depends on what you are protecting most wall transformers
have a fixed max output and even though.5A could kill, though it would require some help
(odd setup, or pre existing (known or not) heart condition, and maybe slow medical
response) more likely than not you would just end up getting a good jolt (lets not try it
and say we did) but you could end up protecting say the relay or the float switch. Its
not voltage its current that blows a fuse be it 1V or 20000000V(ok overkill on the 0's)

--
Richard Reynolds

[Marc Levenson]

I would think that if the sensor in the float switch failed due to sal****er erosion, then
the fuse blowing out would stop any further current from entering the water.

A ground probe would be good too. :)

Marc


Richard Reynolds wrote:

> > What a great idea! What size fuse do you think is appropriate? It has to be equal or
> higher
> > than the float switch obviously.
>
> actually its best to go below or equal to the float but above the pump. let a $.20 fuse
> blow before a $$$ float switch. which one you pick depends on the pump,
>
> --
> Richard Reynolds
>

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[Richard Reynolds]

> I would think that if the sensor in the float switch failed due to sal****er erosion,
then
> the fuse blowing out would stop any further current from entering the water.

it still should be the fuse that blows before any working part of the circuit, a fuse
wont catch fire(realistically) many of the fast blow fuses are even safe when working in
and around flamables, generally a fuse is really designed to fail before equipment damage
or human danger.

if you cant find a gap between the pump and the float then you are using the wrong float
or the wrong pump.

> A ground probe would be good too. :)

thats contriversial lets not go there :D

> Marc


--
Richard Reynolds