Upgrading my 10gal. nano to 30gal.

[roadster3043]

Greetings.

I'm in the process of upgrading my 10gal. nano to a 30gal.(36L x 12W x
16H), which you can se here(currently testing for leaks):

http://home.coqui.net/jmfix/tankfront.JPG

My first problem is that I don't have enough space on the back of the
tank to add anything like HOB AquaC Remora skimmer, and anything else
that might be needed in the future(power heads, etc.), as you can see
here:

http://home.coqui.net/jmfix/tankside.JPG

My light hood is a Deluxe Aluminum Hood System with a 400W MH bulb and
two 96W PC actinics, with two fans, one blowing air in and the other
out. You can see it here:

http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_lighting_metal_halide_fixtures.asp?
CartId=

I can't add a sump because the space will be occupied by the remote
ballast.

I know that the hood could be raised doing some wood work, but I have
never done any woodworking whatsoever.

Any suggestions, recommendations are very welcome.


Thanks you.

--
Take care.

[Marc Levenson]

Wow, you like overpowering your PC too, right? :p

400w plus PCs over a 30g? You will need to make some woodwork to lift
it up off the tank to avoid overheating the water. A sump with a fan
would help, and if you lift the light 6 inches, you'll have room for an
overflow box. You'll need a "Slimline" model.

Also, a Remora is only 4" wide, so it might fit that spot between the
tank and the wall. If not, move the tank forward another inch.

Marc


roadster3043 wrote:

> Greetings.
>
> I'm in the process of upgrading my 10gal. nano to a 30gal.(36L x 12W x
> 16H), which you can se here(currently testing for leaks):
>
> http://home.coqui.net/jmfix/tankfront.JPG
>
> My first problem is that I don't have enough space on the back of the
> tank to add anything like HOB AquaC Remora skimmer, and anything else
> that might be needed in the future(power heads, etc.), as you can see
> here:
>
> http://home.coqui.net/jmfix/tankside.JPG
>
> My light hood is a Deluxe Aluminum Hood System with a 400W MH bulb and
> two 96W PC actinics, with two fans, one blowing air in and the other
> out. You can see it here:
>
> http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_lighting_metal_halide_fixtures.asp?
> CartId=
>
> I can't add a sump because the space will be occupied by the remote
> ballast.
>
> I know that the hood could be raised doing some wood work, but I have
> never done any woodworking whatsoever.
>
> Any suggestions, recommendations are very welcome.
>
>
> Thanks you.
>
> --
> Take care.
>
>

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[roadster3043]

Marc Levenson > wrote in
:

> Wow, you like overpowering your PC too, right? :p
>
> 400w plus PCs over a 30g? You will need to make some woodwork to
> lift it up off the tank to avoid overheating the water. A sump
> with a fan would help, and if you lift the light 6 inches, you'll
> have room for an overflow box. You'll need a "Slimline" model.
>
> Also, a Remora is only 4" wide, so it might fit that spot between
> the tank and the wall. If not, move the tank forward another
> inch.
>
> Marc
>
>
<snip>

My PC no, it is too hot here for any overpowering. :-)

I prefer my fish well done. :-)

I was refering to the remora on the inside of the tank since the
light hood occupies most of the tank's top. I left 5" between the
tank and the wall.

How can I have a sump if my light's remote ballasts will be in the
stand? I was thinking of making a base to raise the ballasts and
under the ballasts place the sump?. Or do it the other way around?


Know of any good places to get the "Slimline" overflow box?

What kind of wood and thickness should I use to raise the hood?

Thank you.

--
Take care.

[Marc Levenson]

If you create a three or four sided wooden frame, (three being better
but with some type of thin cross brace across the back) you can set your
current light system in it, resting on a rail around the inner edge of
the framework you built.

With the lights up, you'd have room to install the Remora in tank and
the overflow box. Or you could just have the overflow box and put an
Urchin protein skimmer in your new sump.

3/4" wood would work fine. I'd seal it super well though. Matter of
fact, what you really need is a canopy that sits on the ends and has the
lights in the top section. Something like this maybe:

http://www.melevsreef.com/pics/55g_with_new_canopy.jpg

You can leave the top open to allow heat to vent upward, as long as you
can't see it.

I think Slimline skimmers are made by LifeReef.com

Marc


roadster3043 wrote:



> I was refering to the remora on the inside of the tank since the
> light hood occupies most of the tank's top. I left 5" between the
> tank and the wall.
>
> How can I have a sump if my light's remote ballasts will be in the
> stand? I was thinking of making a base to raise the ballasts and
> under the ballasts place the sump?. Or do it the other way around?
>
>
> Know of any good places to get the "Slimline" overflow box?
>
> What kind of wood and thickness should I use to raise the hood?
>
> Thank you.
>
> --
> Take care.
>
>

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[roadster3043]

Marc Levenson > wrote in
:

> If you create a three or four sided wooden frame, (three being
> better but with some type of thin cross brace across the back) you
> can set your current light system in it, resting on a rail around
> the inner edge of the framework you built.
>
> With the lights up, you'd have room to install the Remora in tank
> and the overflow box. Or you could just have the overflow box and
> put an Urchin protein skimmer in your new sump.
>
> 3/4" wood would work fine. I'd seal it super well though. Matter
> of fact, what you really need is a canopy that sits on the ends
> and has the lights in the top section. Something like this maybe:
>
> http://www.melevsreef.com/pics/55g_with_new_canopy.jpg
>
> You can leave the top open to allow heat to vent upward, as long
> as you can't see it.
>
> I think Slimline skimmers are made by LifeReef.com
>
> Marc
>
<snip>

Thanks again Marc.

I've been watching your site and reading, specially the 29gal tank.
I hope that in time, my tank can look like yours. Not identical but
close to it. :-)


I like the new canopy on the 55gal., does the light stray much
outside the tank?

Do you have egg crate on the tank's surface to prevent carpet
surfing?

Thank you.

--
Take care.

[Marc Levenson]

No, I have a solid piece of Black Acrylic that mounts on the front of
that canopy. If you go to my T5 page (under the 55g category), you'll
see it in place. http://www.melevsreef.com/links.html (Hidden Treasure
page)

No eggcrate. I feed my fish, so they stay put. :p

Marc


roadster3043 wrote:

> Thanks again Marc.
>
> I've been watching your site and reading, specially the 29gal tank.
> I hope that in time, my tank can look like yours. Not identical but
> close to it. :-)
>
>
> I like the new canopy on the 55gal., does the light stray much
> outside the tank?
>
> Do you have egg crate on the tank's surface to prevent carpet
> surfing?
>
> Thank you.
>
> --
> Take care.
>
>

--
Personal Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[Pszemol]

"roadster3043" > wrote in message ...
> My light hood is a Deluxe Aluminum Hood System with a 400W MH bulb and
> two 96W PC actinics, with two fans, one blowing air in and the other
> out.

Wow... I have the same size tank and two 96W/36" power compacts.
One is 10000K and the other is Actinic. I have problems with heat.
I have to run a chiller every time the temp in the room rises
over 75F. And I was thinking I have enough light...
Adding 400W mh bulb on top of it? Sounds like much too bright and too hot.

> I can't add a sump because the space will be occupied by the remote
> ballast.

Whole stand will be occupied by the ballast? How big is it???

> I know that the hood could be raised doing some wood work, but I have
> never done any woodworking whatsoever.

There is always the first time ;-)

[roadster3043]

Marc Levenson > wrote in
m:

> No, I have a solid piece of Black Acrylic that mounts on the front
> of that canopy. If you go to my T5 page (under the 55g category),
> you'll see it in place. http://www.melevsreef.com/links.html
> (Hidden Treasure page)
>
> No eggcrate. I feed my fish, so they stay put. :p
>
> Marc
>
>
<snip>

Thank you Marc.

I went to your site and saw the acrylic.


--
Take care.

[roadster3043]

"Pszemol" > wrote in
:

> "roadster3043" > wrote in message
> ...
>> My light hood is a Deluxe Aluminum Hood System with a 400W MH
>> bulb and two 96W PC actinics, with two fans, one blowing air in
>> and the other out.
>
> Wow... I have the same size tank and two 96W/36" power compacts.
> One is 10000K and the other is Actinic. I have problems with heat.
> I have to run a chiller every time the temp in the room rises
> over 75F. And I was thinking I have enough light...
> Adding 400W mh bulb on top of it? Sounds like much too bright and
> too hot.
>
>> I can't add a sump because the space will be occupied by the
>> remote ballast.
>
> Whole stand will be occupied by the ballast? How big is it???
>
>> I know that the hood could be raised doing some wood work, but I
>> have never done any woodworking whatsoever.
>
> There is always the first time ;-)
>

Greetings.

Well, I'm thinking or running the lights either late in the afternoon
or early in the evening. Since I usually sleep during the day.

I don't know if when the time comes to change the MH, I can use a
lower wattage bulb.

The remote ballast measures approximately 2' long and 10" wide.

I'll see if I can borrow my uncle's table saw. :-)


Thanks.

--
Take care.

[John]

>I don't know if when the time comes to change the MH, I can use a
>lower wattage bulb.

You cannot use a different bulb unless you change the ballast as well.

~John

[roadster3043]

(John) wrote in
:

>>I don't know if when the time comes to change the MH, I can use a
>>lower wattage bulb.
>
> You cannot use a different bulb unless you change the ballast as
> well.
>
> ~John
>

Thanks.

[Pszemol]

"John" > wrote in message ...
> >I don't know if when the time comes to change the MH, I can use a
> >lower wattage bulb.
>
> You cannot use a different bulb unless you change the ballast as well.

And the socket for 400W will be probably significantly larder than
for smaller bulbs if I recall correctly...
I would like to see what happens with so much light over this 30g.
Reef tank owners always standed on position you cannot hava too much
light over your fish tank, but 400W MH + almost 190W of power compact
seems to be much more light than really hits the usual water depths
on real reefs where our corals grow...

[roadster3043]

"Pszemol" > wrote in
:

> "John" > wrote in message
> ...
>> >I don't know if when the time comes to change the MH, I can use
>> >a lower wattage bulb.
>>
>> You cannot use a different bulb unless you change the ballast as
>> well.
>
> And the socket for 400W will be probably significantly larder than
> for smaller bulbs if I recall correctly...
> I would like to see what happens with so much light over this 30g.
> Reef tank owners always standed on position you cannot hava too
> much light over your fish tank, but 400W MH + almost 190W of power
> compact seems to be much more light than really hits the usual
> water depths on real reefs where our corals grow...
>

So, I should sell the light hood and make a DIY with lower wattage?



--
Take care.

[Pszemol]

"roadster3043" > wrote in message .. .
> > I would like to see what happens with so much light over this 30g.
> > Reef tank owners always standed on position you cannot hava too
> > much light over your fish tank, but 400W MH + almost 190W of power
> > compact seems to be much more light than really hits the usual
> > water depths on real reefs where our corals grow...
>
> So, I should sell the light hood and make a DIY with lower wattage?

If you are sure it will not be way too hot... maybe try it out...

I have never tried 590W of lights over 30 gallons before...
I would say you will be the first out there trying such powerful setup!
Let us know how has it worked out for you...

Maybe I missed it, but are you in an apartment or a house? If the latter, own or rent?
Point is put the sump in the basement if you can.

[John]

>So, I should sell the light hood and make a DIY with lower wattage?

You wouldnt have to sell the hood, just exchange out the components. You just
need to change the ballast and bulb, not the socket, wires or anything else.
You could accomplish this with a screwdriver and some wire nuts.

Here's a 250W MH Electronic Ballast (definitely get e-ballasts as they produce
less heat and noise, plus electricity savings, they also have 150/175W models)
http://hellolights.com/aroelba2meha.html

Its easy to hook up, two yellow wires to mogul lamp base, black/white/ground to
your 110V source. Then all you need is a 250 MH bulb, just make sure you match
the mogul base you have in there now. I've seen two sizes, one just goes by
'mogul base' and the other by 'medium mogul base'.
~John

[roadster3043]

> wrote in
:

> Maybe I missed it, but are you in an apartment or a house? If the
> latter, own or rent? Point is put the sump in the basement if you
> can.
>
>
>
>

I own a house, but there is no basement. :-(

[roadster3043]

"Pszemol" > wrote in
:

> "roadster3043" > wrote in message
> .. .
>> > I would like to see what happens with so much light over this
>> > 30g. Reef tank owners always standed on position you cannot
>> > hava too much light over your fish tank, but 400W MH + almost
>> > 190W of power compact seems to be much more light than really
>> > hits the usual water depths on real reefs where our corals
>> > grow...
>>
>> So, I should sell the light hood and make a DIY with lower
>> wattage?
>
> If you are sure it will not be way too hot... maybe try it out...
>
> I have never tried 590W of lights over 30 gallons before...
> I would say you will be the first out there trying such powerful
> setup! Let us know how has it worked out for you...

I used to run that same light setup in a 46 gal without raising it and
I never had any high temp problems.

[Pszemol]

"roadster3043" > wrote in message .. .
> "Pszemol" > wrote in
> :
>
> > "roadster3043" > wrote in message
> > .. .
> >> > I would like to see what happens with so much light over this
> >> > 30g. Reef tank owners always standed on position you cannot
> >> > hava too much light over your fish tank, but 400W MH + almost
> >> > 190W of power compact seems to be much more light than really
> >> > hits the usual water depths on real reefs where our corals
> >> > grow...
> >>
> >> So, I should sell the light hood and make a DIY with lower
> >> wattage?
> >
> > If you are sure it will not be way too hot... maybe try it out...
> >
> > I have never tried 590W of lights over 30 gallons before...
> > I would say you will be the first out there trying such powerful
> > setup! Let us know how has it worked out for you...
>
> I used to run that same light setup in a 46 gal without raising it and
> I never had any high temp problems.

I will be happy to hear how things worked out for you...
Please come back in a couple of months and write about your setup.
It will be very educational, I guess.

[roadster3043]

"Pszemol" > wrote in
:

<snip>

> I will be happy to hear how things worked out for you...
> Please come back in a couple of months and write about your setup.
> It will be very educational, I guess.
>

I'll see if I can get a pic of the lights on without anything in the
tank. When I had it in my 46gal, it looked 12 noon at the beach when
the lights were on.

It will take me a long while before I can do or add anything with the
tank until I raise the light hood so I can add the HOB protein skimmer
and such.

I will post again when I take the pic with the lights on, and then
again when I have it fully cycled.


Thanks everyone.

--
Take care.