Upgraded Lighting and Algae! Please help

[maddie]

Hi Everyone. I hope that someone can help. I have a 30-gallon Oceanic tank
with about 10 lbs of live rock. I was hoping to start keeping a few corals
so I upgraded my crappy full spectrum fluorescent strip light with an
Aqualight dual power compact 96 watt actinic and 10,000 K fluorescent lamps.
The light hood is sitting directly on the frosted cover that originally came
with the tank.

I had a hair algae problem before I upgraded the lighting; but now in
addition to the hair algae I have the rust colored algae reminiscent of the
algae that comes when the tank begins to cycle. Then, this red film starts
to coat all of the surfaces within a couple of hours. The lighting stays on
for about 10 hours. When the lights go off the film algae mostly goes away.
Phosphates in both the tank and the top off water are 0. I've increased the
circulation in the tank by adding another powerhead. My poor little reef
critters are doing the best that they can but if they rest awhile they get
coated with algae.

Is this normal when lighting is upgraded? Will it go away? What should I
do if not? Please advise!

Thanks!

Maddie

[Ferdinand Servillon]

Red slime algae most likely is Cyanobacteria. High nutrients, stagnant
water, too much light are some causes. I battled with it a couple of months
ago. Increased the flow and started using Reverse Osmosis water and problem
solved. Since you have increased the flow already, try using RO water and
see if that helps. Also try decreasing your light hours. I do not know of
critters that eats Cyano, but maybe I'm just misinformed. Worst case is to
use some kind of antibiotic like Erythromycin (sp?) but that would be a last
resort as it might mess with your biological filter. Try this link for good
info on Cyano.
http://www.netpets.org/fish/reference/reefref/cyanobacteria.html
HTH.
Fernan

"maddie" > wrote in message
...
> Hi Everyone. I hope that someone can help. I have a 30-gallon Oceanic
tank
> with about 10 lbs of live rock. I was hoping to start keeping a few
corals
> so I upgraded my crappy full spectrum fluorescent strip light with an
> Aqualight dual power compact 96 watt actinic and 10,000 K fluorescent
lamps.
> The light hood is sitting directly on the frosted cover that originally
came
> with the tank.
>
> I had a hair algae problem before I upgraded the lighting; but now in
> addition to the hair algae I have the rust colored algae reminiscent of
the
> algae that comes when the tank begins to cycle. Then, this red film
starts
> to coat all of the surfaces within a couple of hours. The lighting stays
on
> for about 10 hours. When the lights go off the film algae mostly goes
away.
> Phosphates in both the tank and the top off water are 0. I've increased
the
> circulation in the tank by adding another powerhead. My poor little reef
> critters are doing the best that they can but if they rest awhile they get
> coated with algae.
>
> Is this normal when lighting is upgraded? Will it go away? What should I
> do if not? Please advise!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Maddie
>
>

[CapFusion]

"maddie" > wrote in message
...
> Hi Everyone. I hope that someone can help. I have a 30-gallon Oceanic
tank
> with about 10 lbs of live rock. I was hoping to start keeping a few
corals
> so I upgraded my crappy full spectrum fluorescent strip light with an
> Aqualight dual power compact 96 watt actinic and 10,000 K fluorescent
lamps.
> The light hood is sitting directly on the frosted cover that originally
came
> with the tank.

What light you have? Does that lamp come with the tank as a combo?



> I had a hair algae problem before I upgraded the lighting; but now in
> addition to the hair algae I have the rust colored algae reminiscent of
the
> algae that comes when the tank begins to cycle. Then, this red film
starts
> to coat all of the surfaces within a couple of hours. The lighting stays
on
> for about 10 hours. When the lights go off the film algae mostly goes
away.
> Phosphates in both the tank and the top off water are 0. I've increased
the
> circulation in the tank by adding another powerhead. My poor little reef
> critters are doing the best that they can but if they rest awhile they get
> coated with algae.
>

How long have your tank cycle?
What is your water parameter reading?
Do you use RO or RO/DI for your water source?

Try using your powerhead pointing just above the Algae so the current try to
carry it away to your filter / skimmer etc... Speaking of filer. Do you have
Protein Skimmer or some sort of filteration?

Phosphate? Sound like your water source is from your Tap / facet.


> Is this normal when lighting is upgraded? Will it go away? What should I
> do if not? Please advise!
>

New light will cause unbalance to your ecosystem that was used to prior
light changes. This normally will get stable back as the new light breakin
and everyting get use to the new light.

CapFusion,...

[maddie]

"CapFusion" <CapeFussion...@hotmail.., com> wrote in message
...
>
> "maddie" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Hi Everyone. I hope that someone can help. I have a 30-gallon Oceanic
> tank
> > with about 10 lbs of live rock. I was hoping to start keeping a few
> corals
> > so I upgraded my crappy full spectrum fluorescent strip light with an
> > Aqualight dual power compact 96 watt actinic and 10,000 K fluorescent
> lamps.
> > The light hood is sitting directly on the frosted cover that originally
> came
> > with the tank.
>
> What light you have? Does that lamp come with the tank as a combo?

Answer: The light did not come with the tank, it was a retrofit. The cover
however was original to the tank.
>
>
>
> > I had a hair algae problem before I upgraded the lighting; but now in
> > addition to the hair algae I have the rust colored algae reminiscent of
> the
> > algae that comes when the tank begins to cycle. Then, this red film
> starts
> > to coat all of the surfaces within a couple of hours. The lighting
stays
> on
> > for about 10 hours. When the lights go off the film algae mostly goes
> away.
> > Phosphates in both the tank and the top off water are 0. I've increased
> the
> > circulation in the tank by adding another powerhead. My poor little
reef
> > critters are doing the best that they can but if they rest awhile they
get
> > coated with algae.
> >
>
> How long have your tank cycle?

Answer: My tank has cycled since about Christmas time. The new lighting
arrangement is only about 3 weeks old.

> What is your water parameter reading? Answer: Nitrates, Phosphates,
Ammonia, Nitrites all are about 0. pH is about 8.3. S.G.=1.025

> Do you use RO or RO/DI for your water source? Answer: I use RO as my
water source.
>
> Try using your powerhead pointing just above the Algae so the current try
to
> carry it away to your filter / skimmer etc... Speaking of filer. Do you
have
> Protein Skimmer or some sort of filteration?

Answer: I'll adjust the powerhead position. No protein skimmer; but I do
have a wet/dry filter.
>
> Phosphate? Sound like your water source is from your Tap / facet.

Answer: No phosphates are reading at zero in both the top off water and the
water change water.
>
>
> > Is this normal when lighting is upgraded? Will it go away? What should
I
> > do if not? Please advise!
> >
>
> New light will cause unbalance to your ecosystem that was used to prior
> light changes. This normally will get stable back as the new light breakin
> and everyting get use to the new light.

Answer: Thanks I was hoping that was the case.
>
> CapFusion,...
>
>

[CapFusion]

"maddie" > wrote in message
...
>
> Answer: My tank has cycled since about Christmas time. The new lighting
> arrangement is only about 3 weeks old.
>
> > What is your water parameter reading? Answer: Nitrates, Phosphates,
> Ammonia, Nitrites all are about 0. pH is about 8.3. S.G.=1.025
>
> > Do you use RO or RO/DI for your water source? Answer: I use RO as my
> water source.
> >
> > Try using your powerhead pointing just above the Algae so the current
try
> to
> > carry it away to your filter / skimmer etc... Speaking of filer. Do you
> have
> > Protein Skimmer or some sort of filteration?
>
> Answer: I'll adjust the powerhead position. No protein skimmer; but I do
> have a wet/dry filter.
> >

Ok, you say you have W/D. W/D have BIOS-balls. If you have not remove it
yet, try slowly removing it and do water changes.

BIOS-Balls will feed on those nitrate that your bacteria live in. They will
break down to final product - nitrate. This nitrate will promote any algae
in your tank. Water change can help but will not help much in this battle.
If you looking at an algae view - it obsorbing nitrate nutrient. If you do
not want or plan on getting a Protein Skimmer, you will need alot of
janitoral crew like shrimp [all-sort] crab, snail and some plant graze like
my Yellow Tang.

I noticed you indicated your water parameter as non-detectable across the
board. This is normal especially nitrate reading since it up-taking
(obsorbing) the nitrate from your water.

I assumed this probably why you have algae problem before the new lamp.


Do you have any other filter like undergravel type? You did not mention
this. I just want to bring this up just to make sure. If you have this
undergravel, you will need to remove it, too.

Are you see the general picture or idea to your algae problem?

CapFusion,...

[maddie]

Thanks Cap! It sounds like I need to invest in a protein skimmer.


"CapFusion" <CapeFussion...@hotmail.., com> wrote in message
...
>
> "maddie" > wrote in message
> ...
> >
> > Answer: My tank has cycled since about Christmas time. The new
lighting
> > arrangement is only about 3 weeks old.
> >
> > > What is your water parameter reading? Answer: Nitrates, Phosphates,
> > Ammonia, Nitrites all are about 0. pH is about 8.3. S.G.=1.025
> >
> > > Do you use RO or RO/DI for your water source? Answer: I use RO as my
> > water source.
> > >
> > > Try using your powerhead pointing just above the Algae so the current
> try
> > to
> > > carry it away to your filter / skimmer etc... Speaking of filer. Do
you
> > have
> > > Protein Skimmer or some sort of filteration?
> >
> > Answer: I'll adjust the powerhead position. No protein skimmer; but I
do
> > have a wet/dry filter.
> > >
>
> Ok, you say you have W/D. W/D have BIOS-balls. If you have not remove it
> yet, try slowly removing it and do water changes.
>
> BIOS-Balls will feed on those nitrate that your bacteria live in. They
will
> break down to final product - nitrate. This nitrate will promote any algae
> in your tank. Water change can help but will not help much in this battle.
> If you looking at an algae view - it obsorbing nitrate nutrient. If you do
> not want or plan on getting a Protein Skimmer, you will need alot of
> janitoral crew like shrimp [all-sort] crab, snail and some plant graze
like
> my Yellow Tang.
>
> I noticed you indicated your water parameter as non-detectable across the
> board. This is normal especially nitrate reading since it up-taking
> (obsorbing) the nitrate from your water.
>
> I assumed this probably why you have algae problem before the new lamp.
>
>
> Do you have any other filter like undergravel type? You did not mention
> this. I just want to bring this up just to make sure. If you have this
> undergravel, you will need to remove it, too.
>
> Are you see the general picture or idea to your algae problem?
>
> CapFusion,...
>
>

[maddie]

Hey John,

Nitrites, nitrates and phosphates are all zero. pH is about 8.3 and S.G. is
about 1.025.

I do plan on adding more live rock but I'd like to get my algae problem
under control first.

Any other ideas you can give would be greatly appreciated.

Maddie
"John" > wrote in message
...
> >I have a 30-gallon Oceanic tank
> >with about 10 lbs of live rock.
>
> You need much more rock, at least 1x to 1.5x your gallon capacity. What
are
> your other levels?
> ~John

[maddie]

Thanks Ferdinand. I do use RO water already; but I will cut down on my
light hours. Any other ideas you have will be greatly appreciated.

Maddie
"Ferdinand Servillon" > wrote in message
...
> Red slime algae most likely is Cyanobacteria. High nutrients, stagnant
> water, too much light are some causes. I battled with it a couple of
months
> ago. Increased the flow and started using Reverse Osmosis water and
problem
> solved. Since you have increased the flow already, try using RO water and
> see if that helps. Also try decreasing your light hours. I do not know of
> critters that eats Cyano, but maybe I'm just misinformed. Worst case is to
> use some kind of antibiotic like Erythromycin (sp?) but that would be a
last
> resort as it might mess with your biological filter. Try this link for
good
> info on Cyano.
> http://www.netpets.org/fish/reference/reefref/cyanobacteria.html
> HTH.
> Fernan
>
> "maddie" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Hi Everyone. I hope that someone can help. I have a 30-gallon Oceanic
> tank
> > with about 10 lbs of live rock. I was hoping to start keeping a few
> corals
> > so I upgraded my crappy full spectrum fluorescent strip light with an
> > Aqualight dual power compact 96 watt actinic and 10,000 K fluorescent
> lamps.
> > The light hood is sitting directly on the frosted cover that originally
> came
> > with the tank.
> >
> > I had a hair algae problem before I upgraded the lighting; but now in
> > addition to the hair algae I have the rust colored algae reminiscent of
> the
> > algae that comes when the tank begins to cycle. Then, this red film
> starts
> > to coat all of the surfaces within a couple of hours. The lighting
stays
> on
> > for about 10 hours. When the lights go off the film algae mostly goes
> away.
> > Phosphates in both the tank and the top off water are 0. I've increased
> the
> > circulation in the tank by adding another powerhead. My poor little
reef
> > critters are doing the best that they can but if they rest awhile they
get
> > coated with algae.
> >
> > Is this normal when lighting is upgraded? Will it go away? What should
I
> > do if not? Please advise!
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Maddie
> >
> >
>
>