View Full Version : Phosguard question
Richard Periut
July 14th 04, 04:38 AM
Hi all,
I'm having problems with high phos levels despite using a DI unit with
my RO unit, and decreasing feeds.
I've heard of the aforementioned product, but don't want to pollute my
tank with other chemicals.
Any recommendations regarding this product?
TIA,
Rich
--
"Dum Spiro, Spero."
As long as I breath, I hope.
Cicero
Mort
July 14th 04, 05:54 AM
Hi Rich,
I have done quite a bit of looking around on this subject myself. I
cant comment on "phosguard" but I can tell you that a product by the name of
ROWAphos was the most highly recommended to me. I am in the proccess of
using it right now and so far my phosphates appear to be near zero.
hth
~Mort
"Richard Periut" > wrote in message
...
> Hi all,
>
> I'm having problems with high phos levels despite using a DI unit with
> my RO unit, and decreasing feeds.
>
> I've heard of the aforementioned product, but don't want to pollute my
> tank with other chemicals.
>
> Any recommendations regarding this product?
>
> TIA,
>
> Rich
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> "Dum Spiro, Spero."
>
> As long as I breath, I hope.
>
> Cicero
>
Pszemol
July 14th 04, 03:28 PM
"Mort" > wrote in message gy.com...
> Hi Rich,
> I have done quite a bit of looking around on this subject myself. I
> cant comment on "phosguard" but I can tell you that a product by the name of
> ROWAphos was the most highly recommended to me. I am in the proccess of
> using it right now and so far my phosphates appear to be near zero.
May I ask how are your animals doing, Mort?
Any of what I gave you recently (xenia, green buttons) recovered maybe?
Richard Periut
July 15th 04, 05:11 PM
Pszemol wrote:
> "Mort" > wrote in message gy.com...
>
>>Hi Rich,
>> I have done quite a bit of looking around on this subject myself. I
>>cant comment on "phosguard" but I can tell you that a product by the name of
>>ROWAphos was the most highly recommended to me. I am in the proccess of
>>using it right now and so far my phosphates appear to be near zero.
>
>
> May I ask how are your animals doing, Mort?
> Any of what I gave you recently (xenia, green buttons) recovered maybe?
Thank you all for sharing your experiences with me.
Rich
--
"Dum Spiro, Spero."
As long as I breath, I hope.
Cicero
Boomer
July 15th 04, 07:15 PM
Richard, this is from our on-line magazine, it should answer all your questions. Don't
forget to go to the link in the second for PhosGuard paragraph
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/june2004/review.htm
Boomer
Want to talk chemistry ? The Reef Chemistry Forum
http://www.reefcentral.com/vbulletin/index.php
Want to See More ?
Please Join Our Growing Membership
www.coralrealm.com
If You See Me Running You Better Catch-Up
Richard Periut
July 16th 04, 12:11 AM
Boomer wrote:
> Richard, this is from our on-line magazine, it should answer all your questions. Don't
> forget to go to the link in the second for PhosGuard paragraph
>
> http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/june2004/review.htm
>
>
>
>
> Boomer
>
> Want to talk chemistry ? The Reef Chemistry Forum
> http://www.reefcentral.com/vbulletin/index.php
>
> Want to See More ?
> Please Join Our Growing Membership
> www.coralrealm.com
>
> If You See Me Running You Better Catch-Up
>
>
Thanks Boomer,
I found the magazine very interesting, and will be frequenting it often.
Rich
--
"Dum Spiro, Spero."
As long as I breath, I hope.
Cicero
Mort
July 17th 04, 09:42 PM
> Pszemol wrote:
> > May I ask how are your animals doing, Mort?
> > Any of what I gave you recently (xenia, green buttons) recovered maybe?
Pszemol,
The above is all I saw of your message and that is what was included
from another users reply.
For some reason, my news server did not display your message but I will
answer what I saw...
My animals are doing pretty well. I had a mishap with my skimmer and it
was not operating for a couple of weeks. It turned out that the air valve
was plugged with salt creep. After I fixed that and did a large water
change, things have gotten back to normal.
Normal, however, is not wonderful in my case.
My SPS are fairing well. My zoos are making a comeback but the green
button pollyps that you gave me have yet to open up. The Xenia are no where
to be found. I strongly suspect that "hooligan" fish as you put it.
From time to time, I see him nipping at my gorgonians and even the SPS once
in a while. He seems to like stringy things so I am certain it was him that
nipped the xenia to death.
I have to move the reef to work at the end of the month so that is when
I will remove him. Then I'd like to try the xenia again.
The green buttons are still alive, they just wont open up.
Hey, I still owe you that money from the reeftopia refund. I could stop
by on Tuesday evening after work if you'll be around. Let me know.
~Mort
Mort
July 17th 04, 09:45 PM
> Thanks Boomer,
>
> I found the magazine very interesting, and will be frequenting it often.
>
> Rich
>
Rich,
I recently did a water change and found my phosphates to be between .1
and .25. This was after running some ROWAphos for about a month.
I've replaced the media and will see what happens.
My point is, if you have high phosphates like me, your removal media will
probably get exhausted quicker than you'd expect. I wish I had been keeping
a closer eye on things. Who knows how quickly it got exhausted.
Just thought I'd pass that along.
hth
~Mort
Pszemol
July 17th 04, 10:06 PM
"Mort" > wrote in message . ..
> Hey, I still owe you that money from the reeftopia refund. I could stop
> by on Tuesday evening after work if you'll be around. Let me know.
Sounds good, bring a bag or two - I have some spare frags of
Xenia elongata and Xenia umbrelata - if you want a second try.
Pszemol
July 17th 04, 10:10 PM
"Mort" > wrote in message . ..
> Hey, I still owe you that money from the reeftopia refund. I could stop
> by on Tuesday evening after work if you'll be around. Let me know.
Sounds good, bring a bag or two - I have some spare frags of
Xenia elongata and Xenia umbellata - if you want a second try.
Richard Periut
July 18th 04, 12:18 AM
Mort wrote:
>>Thanks Boomer,
>>
>>I found the magazine very interesting, and will be frequenting it often.
>>
>>Rich
>>
>
>
> Rich,
> I recently did a water change and found my phosphates to be between .1
> and .25. This was after running some ROWAphos for about a month.
> I've replaced the media and will see what happens.
> My point is, if you have high phosphates like me, your removal media will
> probably get exhausted quicker than you'd expect. I wish I had been keeping
> a closer eye on things. Who knows how quickly it got exhausted.
> Just thought I'd pass that along.
>
> hth
>
> ~Mort
>
>
>
Where would I put it if I only have a Red Sea hangon PS and powerheads
with filters?
Thanks,
Rich
--
"Dum Spiro, Spero."
As long as I breath, I hope.
Cicero
peobrien
July 18th 04, 03:56 AM
Phosguard, by Seachem, is great. It won't release any phosphate back into
the water like other products. It turns brown when full.
"Richard Periut" > wrote in message
...
> Hi all,
>
> I'm having problems with high phos levels despite using a DI unit with
> my RO unit, and decreasing feeds.
>
> I've heard of the aforementioned product, but don't want to pollute my
> tank with other chemicals.
>
> Any recommendations regarding this product?
>
> TIA,
>
> Rich
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> "Dum Spiro, Spero."
>
> As long as I breath, I hope.
>
> Cicero
>
Pszemol
July 18th 04, 04:45 AM
What other products release phosphate back to the water?
Phosguard leaches aluminium ions to the water, and
this is more serious problem since the aluminium i toxic.
It would be fine in fish only tanks to remove phosphates,
but I would not use it in reef tanks, where we keep
invertebrates, much more sensitive for toxic aluminium.
"peobrien" > wrote in message news:cFlKc.107322$IQ4.42091@attbi_s02...
> Phosguard, by Seachem, is great. It won't release any phosphate back into
> the water like other products. It turns brown when full.
>
> "Richard Periut" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I'm having problems with high phos levels despite using a DI unit with
> > my RO unit, and decreasing feeds.
> >
> > I've heard of the aforementioned product, but don't want to pollute my
> > tank with other chemicals.
> >
> > Any recommendations regarding this product?
> >
> > TIA,
> >
> > Rich
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > "Dum Spiro, Spero."
> >
> > As long as I breath, I hope.
> >
> > Cicero
> >
>
>
Richard Periut
July 18th 04, 05:01 AM
Pszemol wrote:
> What other products release phosphate back to the water?
>
> Phosguard leaches aluminium ions to the water, and
> this is more serious problem since the aluminium i toxic.
> It would be fine in fish only tanks to remove phosphates,
> but I would not use it in reef tanks, where we keep
> invertebrates, much more sensitive for toxic aluminium.
>
> "peobrien" > wrote in message news:cFlKc.107322$IQ4.42091@attbi_s02...
>
>>Phosguard, by Seachem, is great. It won't release any phosphate back into
>>the water like other products. It turns brown when full.
>>
>>"Richard Periut" > wrote in message
...
>>
>>>Hi all,
>>>
>>>I'm having problems with high phos levels despite using a DI unit with
>>>my RO unit, and decreasing feeds.
>>>
>>>I've heard of the aforementioned product, but don't want to pollute my
>>>tank with other chemicals.
>>>
>>>Any recommendations regarding this product?
>>>
>>>TIA,
>>>
>>>Rich
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>--
>>>"Dum Spiro, Spero."
>>>
>>>As long as I breath, I hope.
>>>
>>>Cicero
>>>
>>
>>
OK, now I'm really confused???
So how do I attack my Phos problem? I have already cut down on feeds,
and am using a RO/DI unit. I was going to order Phosguard, but have been
scared because of any other chemicals going into my reef tank.
How about growing certain type of beneficial algae in a sump?
Anyway, I'm getting a red/brown bloom of algae; and correct me if I'm
wrong, but isn't that associated with a silica problem?
This hobby is starting to stress me out, instead of relaxing me : {
Rich
--
"Dum Spiro, Spero."
As long as I breath, I hope.
Cicero
Marc Levenson
July 18th 04, 07:45 AM
Hi Richard,
If you have a canister filter, you can fill it up with
Kent's Phosphate Sponge. It is granular in form. Run this
on your tank for 48 hours, then remove the media
immediately. It lowered my phosphates from 2.0 to 0.2 in
that time period.
Marc
Richard Periut wrote:
> OK, now I'm really confused???
>
> So how do I attack my Phos problem? I have already cut down on feeds,
> and am using a RO/DI unit. I was going to order Phosguard, but have been
> scared because of any other chemicals going into my reef tank.
>
> How about growing certain type of beneficial algae in a sump?
>
> Anyway, I'm getting a red/brown bloom of algae; and correct me if I'm
> wrong, but isn't that associated with a silica problem?
>
> This hobby is starting to stress me out, instead of relaxing me : {
>
> Rich
>
--
Personal Page:
http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com
Eric
July 18th 04, 01:39 PM
Richard Periut wrote:
> OK, now I'm really confused???
>
> So how do I attack my Phos problem? I have already cut down on feeds,
> and am using a RO/DI unit. I was going to order Phosguard, but have been
> scared because of any other chemicals going into my reef tank.
There are phosphate reducing agents that are not alluminum based... I
know of two that are iron oxide based, and that claim to be safer
because of this.
Two Little Fishies PhosBan:
http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_filter_media_two_little_fishies_phosban_h ydrocarbon.asp?CartId=
ROWAphos:
http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_filter_media_rowa_rowaphos.asp?CartId=
I use the latter, but the former seems a little less expensive and
easier to work work with. I'll probably try it once I've used up all
the ROWAphos.
> How about growing certain type of beneficial algae in a sump?
Growing algae can help, but if you overfeed like I do, you just can't
grow enough.
> Anyway, I'm getting a red/brown bloom of algae; and correct me if I'm
> wrong, but isn't that associated with a silica problem?
You can test easily enough to see what your silicates are. All of these
phosphate removers claim to remove silicates too.
Eric
http://www.atreis.com/
Richard Periut
July 19th 04, 06:29 PM
Eric wrote:
> Richard Periut wrote:
>
>> OK, now I'm really confused???
>>
>> So how do I attack my Phos problem? I have already cut down on feeds,
>> and am using a RO/DI unit. I was going to order Phosguard, but have
>> been scared because of any other chemicals going into my reef tank.
>
>
> There are phosphate reducing agents that are not alluminum based... I
> know of two that are iron oxide based, and that claim to be safer
> because of this.
>
> Two Little Fishies PhosBan:
> http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_filter_media_two_little_fishies_phosban_h ydrocarbon.asp?CartId=
>
> ROWAphos:
> http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_filter_media_rowa_rowaphos.asp?CartId=
>
> I use the latter, but the former seems a little less expensive and
> easier to work work with. I'll probably try it once I've used up all
> the ROWAphos.
>
>> How about growing certain type of beneficial algae in a sump?
>
>
> Growing algae can help, but if you overfeed like I do, you just can't
> grow enough.
>
>> Anyway, I'm getting a red/brown bloom of algae; and correct me if I'm
>> wrong, but isn't that associated with a silica problem?
>
>
> You can test easily enough to see what your silicates are. All of these
> phosphate removers claim to remove silicates too.
>
> Eric
> http://www.atreis.com/
Hi Eric. I went out and bought the RowaPhos (expensive stuff,) and since
I didn't have a canister filter, I used the sock that came with the
product. Needless to say, it was a disaster (I tried placing the sock
inside one of my powerhead's filter attachments, and the water did not
run through the sock, but through openings around it. The water turned
brown, my hands were full of what seemed to be rust. I tried to wedge it
in place, but no avail. The I placed it on my PS's outflow, which caused
immediate overflow and salt water fell into the back of the tank on some
of the electric outlets on the extension. Not pretty...
Anyway, I went and bought the Eheim 2213 and I'm keeping my fingers
crossed that it will work as expected.
Regards and thanks,
Rich
--
"Dum Spiro, Spero."
As long as I breath, I hope.
Cicero
Eric
July 20th 04, 01:05 AM
Richard Periut wrote:
> Hi Eric. I went out and bought the RowaPhos (expensive stuff,) and since
> I didn't have a canister filter, I used the sock that came with the
> product. Needless to say, it was a disaster (I tried placing the sock
> inside one of my powerhead's filter attachments, and the water did not
> run through the sock, but through openings around it. The water turned
> brown, my hands were full of what seemed to be rust. I tried to wedge it
> in place, but no avail. The I placed it on my PS's outflow, which caused
> immediate overflow and salt water fell into the back of the tank on some
> of the electric outlets on the extension. Not pretty...
Wow! I haven't had such problems, although I've heard that the reason
the instructions say explicitely not to let the stuff dry out is because
it oxidizes (rusts) and then when you get it wet again you have a mess...
> Anyway, I went and bought the Eheim 2213 and I'm keeping my fingers
> crossed that it will work as expected.
I run mine in an Eheim AquaBall, the one with a filter cartridge. I
took out the material from the filter cartridge, put the ROWAphos in
there, then left the sponge filter on the intake, and added another
sponge filter betwee the filter cartridge and the ball. This seems to
have been fairly effective at keeping the material from entering my
sump. The only thing I have to watch is that the sponge filters are
kept clean.
The company that makes PhosBan makes a reactor for it that looks to me
to work just like a fluidized bed filter. Sometime soon I'll probably
give that a try.
Eric
http://www.atreis.com/
Simon O'Keeffe
July 20th 04, 02:17 AM
Algae could keep up with any amount of food, if you provide the space
and light and choose the right type.
10cm squared per litre of aquarium water should be fine.
You need a decent ATS and some nice light (400w MH of HPS).
The small tray I use (2 square feet) runs 2 x 4x2x2 tanks by itself (i.e
no skimmer).
I have undetectable phosphate and nitrate (salifert tests).
If your interested get yourself a copy of Dynamic Aquaria, by Adey and
Loveland.
Great ref for ATS systems.
The Great Barrier Reef MArine Aquarium 250000 l in Townsville uses this
method of nutrient export due to the many other benefits that come along
with algae.
Algae also will absorb metals and other pollutants from the tanks water.
It's a much better alternative to resins.
simon
Richard Periut wrote:
> Eric wrote:
>
>> Richard Periut wrote:
>>
>>> OK, now I'm really confused???
>>>
>>> So how do I attack my Phos problem? I have already cut down on
>>> feeds, and am using a RO/DI unit. I was going to order Phosguard,
>>> but have been scared because of any other chemicals going into my
>>> reef tank.
>>
>>
>>
>> There are phosphate reducing agents that are not alluminum based...
>> I know of two that are iron oxide based, and that claim to be safer
>> because of this.
>>
>> Two Little Fishies PhosBan:
>> http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_filter_media_two_little_fishies_phosban_h ydrocarbon.asp?CartId=
>>
>> ROWAphos:
>> http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_filter_media_rowa_rowaphos.asp?CartId=
>>
>>
>> I use the latter, but the former seems a little less expensive and
>> easier to work work with. I'll probably try it once I've used up all
>> the ROWAphos.
>>
>>> How about growing certain type of beneficial algae in a sump?
>>
>>
>>
>> Growing algae can help, but if you overfeed like I do, you just can't
>> grow enough.
>>
>>> Anyway, I'm getting a red/brown bloom of algae; and correct me if
>>> I'm wrong, but isn't that associated with a silica problem?
>>
>>
>>
>> You can test easily enough to see what your silicates are. All of
>> these phosphate removers claim to remove silicates too.
>>
>> Eric
>> http://www.atreis.com/
>
>
> Hi Eric. I went out and bought the RowaPhos (expensive stuff,) and
> since I didn't have a canister filter, I used the sock that came with
> the product. Needless to say, it was a disaster (I tried placing the
> sock inside one of my powerhead's filter attachments, and the water
> did not run through the sock, but through openings around it. The
> water turned brown, my hands were full of what seemed to be rust. I
> tried to wedge it in place, but no avail. The I placed it on my PS's
> outflow, which caused immediate overflow and salt water fell into the
> back of the tank on some of the electric outlets on the extension. Not
> pretty...
>
> Anyway, I went and bought the Eheim 2213 and I'm keeping my fingers
> crossed that it will work as expected.
>
> Regards and thanks,
>
> Rich
>
Simon O'Keeffe
July 20th 04, 06:24 AM
It rusts?
That sounds dodgy for a product designed for salt water use.
I'm sure there is a reason to keep it wet but if it rusts then I'd be
inclined to not use it.
Simon
Eric wrote:
> Richard Periut wrote:
>
>> Hi Eric. I went out and bought the RowaPhos (expensive stuff,) and
>> since I didn't have a canister filter, I used the sock that came with
>> the product. Needless to say, it was a disaster (I tried placing the
>> sock inside one of my powerhead's filter attachments, and the water
>> did not run through the sock, but through openings around it. The
>> water turned brown, my hands were full of what seemed to be rust. I
>> tried to wedge it in place, but no avail. The I placed it on my PS's
>> outflow, which caused immediate overflow and salt water fell into the
>> back of the tank on some of the electric outlets on the extension.
>> Not pretty...
>
>
> Wow! I haven't had such problems, although I've heard that the reason
> the instructions say explicitely not to let the stuff dry out is
> because it oxidizes (rusts) and then when you get it wet again you
> have a mess...
>
>> Anyway, I went and bought the Eheim 2213 and I'm keeping my fingers
>> crossed that it will work as expected.
>
>
> I run mine in an Eheim AquaBall, the one with a filter cartridge. I
> took out the material from the filter cartridge, put the ROWAphos in
> there, then left the sponge filter on the intake, and added another
> sponge filter betwee the filter cartridge and the ball. This seems to
> have been fairly effective at keeping the material from entering my
> sump. The only thing I have to watch is that the sponge filters are
> kept clean.
>
> The company that makes PhosBan makes a reactor for it that looks to me
> to work just like a fluidized bed filter. Sometime soon I'll probably
> give that a try.
>
> Eric
> http://www.atreis.com/
Pszemol
July 20th 04, 04:25 PM
"Simon O'Keeffe" > wrote in message ...
> It rusts?
> That sounds dodgy for a product designed for salt water use.
> I'm sure there is a reason to keep it wet but if it rusts then I'd be
> inclined to not use it.
It is not like "it rusts"... It is more like "it is rust" :-)
It works as "iron oxides", a scientific name for a common rust!
So you pay for a quite an expensive rust, my friend :-)
I wonder if throwing a pound of iron nails to the tank will
do the job as good as a pound of ROWAPHOS ? :-)
Nails will probably have less working surface, so
you need probably 5 lb of nails to do the same job ;-)
Richard Periut
July 20th 04, 09:24 PM
Simon O'Keeffe wrote:
> It rusts?
> That sounds dodgy for a product designed for salt water use.
> I'm sure there is a reason to keep it wet but if it rusts then I'd be
> inclined to not use it.
> Simon
>
> Eric wrote:
>
>> Richard Periut wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Eric. I went out and bought the RowaPhos (expensive stuff,) and
>>> since I didn't have a canister filter, I used the sock that came with
>>> the product. Needless to say, it was a disaster (I tried placing the
>>> sock inside one of my powerhead's filter attachments, and the water
>>> did not run through the sock, but through openings around it. The
>>> water turned brown, my hands were full of what seemed to be rust. I
>>> tried to wedge it in place, but no avail. The I placed it on my PS's
>>> outflow, which caused immediate overflow and salt water fell into the
>>> back of the tank on some of the electric outlets on the extension.
>>> Not pretty...
>>
>>
>>
>> Wow! I haven't had such problems, although I've heard that the reason
>> the instructions say explicitely not to let the stuff dry out is
>> because it oxidizes (rusts) and then when you get it wet again you
>> have a mess...
>>
>>> Anyway, I went and bought the Eheim 2213 and I'm keeping my fingers
>>> crossed that it will work as expected.
>>
>>
>>
>> I run mine in an Eheim AquaBall, the one with a filter cartridge. I
>> took out the material from the filter cartridge, put the ROWAphos in
>> there, then left the sponge filter on the intake, and added another
>> sponge filter betwee the filter cartridge and the ball. This seems to
>> have been fairly effective at keeping the material from entering my
>> sump. The only thing I have to watch is that the sponge filters are
>> kept clean.
>>
>> The company that makes PhosBan makes a reactor for it that looks to me
>> to work just like a fluidized bed filter. Sometime soon I'll probably
>> give that a try.
>>
>> Eric
>> http://www.atreis.com/
>
>
I meant something similar to rust : )
--
"Dum Spiro, Spero."
As long as I breath, I hope.
Cicero
Rob Marston
July 21st 04, 07:44 AM
A timely link here for how it all works, pro/cons...
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/june2004/review.htm
Rob
Richard Periut
July 21st 04, 05:23 PM
Rob Marston wrote:
> A timely link here for how it all works, pro/cons...
>
> http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/june2004/review.htm
>
> Rob
>
>
After reading this completely, my jaw dropped.
I placed the entire bag, sandwiched between some of the filters that
came with the Eheim, for my 30 gallon tank.
It lowered the PO4 to very low levels. It didn't mention nothing of
milliliters per gallon; matter of fact, the instructions were mediocre
at best.
Should I leave the bag in there? Can I safely store the excess in its
container? How long are you supposed to leave this product (properly
used,) in there?
I'm going to try and search the company on the web, and see what I can get.
TIA,
Rich
--
"Dum Spiro, Spero."
As long as I breath, I hope.
Cicero
Eric
July 22nd 04, 01:00 AM
Rob Marston wrote:
> A timely link here for how it all works, pro/cons...
>
> http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/june2004/review.htm
>
> Rob
I actually read that before I started using ROWAphos... (Unfortunately,
not before I actually bought the ROWAphos, else I would have bought the
other brand.)
I use only small amounts at a time (what fits into the little filter
cartridge in an EHeim Aquaball), and replace it when exhausted. I have
very hard water that I filter through an absorption and adsorption
filter combination rather than RO, so the water is still hard when I use
it in the tank. I haven't had ph problems, either because of the former
or latter or some combination of the two.
Eric
http://www.atreis.com/
reefman MC
July 22nd 04, 04:59 AM
I have been using the phos guard in my reef for about a week now with no
problems. My LFS guy uses it once a month to keep his phosphates down.
I'm about to take out the Phos guard. My phosphates are reading
completely 0. I tested it three times. My test kit is a brand new
salifert.
--
reefman MC
Visit www.3reef.com/forums. See you there.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
reefman MC's Profile: http://www.reef-chat.com/forum/member.php?action=getinfo&userid=7
View this thread: http://www.reef-chat.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=8974
Rod
July 22nd 04, 12:31 PM
But have you testeed your aluminum levels??
>I have been using the phos guard in my reef for about a week now with no
>problems. My LFS guy uses it once a month to keep his phosphates down.
>I'm about to take out the Phos guard. My phosphates are reading
>completely 0. I tested it three times. My test kit is a brand new
>sal
Rob Marston
July 22nd 04, 05:32 PM
> Should I leave the bag in there?
From what I have read the Phosphate will not leach back into the aquarium
once its been bound into the substrate.
So I suppose the answer is to leave it there until all the PO4 has been
absorbed and the material has not become saturated.
> Can I safely store the excess in its container?
As long as its dry {and never been wet } I assume the manufactures best
before date will still be ok.
> How long are you supposed to leave this product (properly used,) in there?
To be honest I left mine in for about two months, the algae seemed to die
and release is bound phospate, then flair up again, tis happened twice and
then it all went clear :-)
Rob
reefman MC
July 23rd 04, 04:24 AM
Haven't tested the aluminum levels, but as I said All corals are doing
great. My LFS guy uses the Phosguard once a month and grows SPS like
crazy.
--
reefman MC
Visit www.3reef.com/forums. See you there.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
reefman MC's Profile: http://www.reef-chat.com/forum/member.php?action=getinfo&userid=7
View this thread: http://www.reef-chat.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=8974
Richard Periut
July 24th 04, 03:21 AM
Rob Marston wrote:
>>Should I leave the bag in there?
>
>
> From what I have read the Phosphate will not leach back into the aquarium
> once its been bound into the substrate.
>
> So I suppose the answer is to leave it there until all the PO4 has been
> absorbed and the material has not become saturated.
>
>
>>Can I safely store the excess in its container?
>
>
> As long as its dry {and never been wet } I assume the manufactures best
> before date will still be ok.
>
>
>>How long are you supposed to leave this product (properly used,) in there?
>
>
> To be honest I left mine in for about two months, the algae seemed to die
> and release is bound phospate, then flair up again, tis happened twice and
> then it all went clear :-)
>
> Rob
>
>
Thanks Rob; for a minute I thought the recent bloom was due to some
mysterious reason; because my PO4 is very low. Didn't think about the
release of it by dying algae.
Rich
--
"Dum Spiro, Spero."
As long as I breath, I hope.
Cicero
vBulletin® v3.6.4, Copyright ©2000-2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.