Re: De-ionised water question

[Buzby]

On Sun, 18 Jul 2004 20:08:53 GMT, Marc Levenson
> wrote:

Thanks for the thoughts, I don't know whether its RO water as its made
for industry (my wife works for a marine safety company)

I'll phone the company tomorrow to see if I can get anymore
information from them, but I think I'll get a blank when I say I want
to use it for a fish tank :)

Cheers Shelton.


>Shelton,
>
>De-Ionized water isn't really good for humans. We need a
>few elements in our drinking water. We do use Reverse
>Osmosis De-Ionized water for our reef tanks, so if you have
>found RO/DI water in the U.K. then it should be fine. It
>would be best if you could test it with a TDS meter to make
>sure the reading is 0 though.
>
>I don't know what you mean by "water meter"...we pay for our
>city water here in the U.S and we all have meters as well.
>I make quite a bit of water, but the usuage on my bill sure
>isn't obvious.
>
>Marc
>

[paulj48]

"Buzby" > wrote in message
...
> I have tried using a tap water purifier here, which hasn't worked out
> for me. I can't have an RO unit as I'm on a water meter & it would be
> way too expensive!
>
[snip]

Have you actually checked what the cost of running an RO unit would be? For
an average RO unit for every gallon of good water you collect you waste
another 4 gallon.

Once you've filled your tank, you only need water for top offs and water
changes every few weeks, now unless your planning on a very large tank thats
not a lot of water.

In my 50 gallon in the UK I top up 1 litre a day due to evaporation and
change 5 gallons every 2 weeks, now thanks not a fortune on my water meter,
just substitute a bath for a shower when your doing a water change and your
water bill will be no different.

[Buzby]

On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 11:06:34 +0100, "paulj48" <paulj48at0tmail.c0m>
wrote:

>
>"Buzby" > wrote in message
...
>> I have tried using a tap water purifier here, which hasn't worked out
>> for me. I can't have an RO unit as I'm on a water meter & it would be
>> way too expensive!
>>
>[snip]
>
>Have you actually checked what the cost of running an RO unit would be? For
>an average RO unit for every gallon of good water you collect you waste
>another 4 gallon.
>
>Once you've filled your tank, you only need water for top offs and water
>changes every few weeks, now unless your planning on a very large tank thats
>not a lot of water.
>
>In my 50 gallon in the UK I top up 1 litre a day due to evaporation and
>change 5 gallons every 2 weeks, now thanks not a fortune on my water meter,
>just substitute a bath for a shower when your doing a water change and your
>water bill will be no different.

The water quality is crap to say the least around here (TDS meter
shows 647!!) So I have been told my waste will be nearer 5:1? On my
30gal tank lets say I do 5 gal a month water change & then allow
another 5gal for top ups during the month, thats 10 gal required?

that would mean I would use a total of 60gals (roughly) in total
including the good water per month? Add to this changing of 3 carts
per 6 months & the starting cost of the unit thats a fair bit?

I can buy this "de-ionised" water from my wifes work at £4 per
25litres, so just over 5 gals so thats £8 per month or £96, the unit
itself (for a reasonable RO/DI) would cost more than that, then the
cart costs so I think I could use this prepared water for nearly 3
years before it would catch up?

I have spoken to the company today who say they use a resin filter to
remove ALL chemicals from their water so do you think I should be able
to use it???

Cheers Shelton.

[paulj48]

[snip]
> The water quality is crap to say the least around here (TDS meter
> shows 647!!) So I have been told my waste will be nearer 5:1? On my
> 30gal tank lets say I do 5 gal a month water change & then allow
> another 5gal for top ups during the month, thats 10 gal required?
>
> that would mean I would use a total of 60gals (roughly) in total
> including the good water per month? Add to this changing of 3 carts
> per 6 months & the starting cost of the unit thats a fair bit?
>
> I can buy this "de-ionised" water from my wifes work at £4 per
> 25litres, so just over 5 gals so thats £8 per month or £96, the unit
> itself (for a reasonable RO/DI) would cost more than that, then the
> cart costs so I think I could use this prepared water for nearly 3
> years before it would catch up?

I suppose £4 for 25litres is cheap enough, as long as your wife doesnt mind
carrying it home for you. My local fish shop sells RO water but I like the
fact that if I need some water quick I can just make my own, also I dont
think RO water lasts very long without going stale

I got my unit from www.ro-man.com for £69, its got 2 filters that need to be
changed every 6 months, I'm happy with the quality of the unit but I've
never tested the output as I've not got a TDS meter.
>
> I have spoken to the company today who say they use a resin filter to
> remove ALL chemicals from their water so do you think I should be able
> to use it???
>

Dont know about this, you coul try posting a message in www.reefcentral.com
,very good and helpfull site.

Regards
Paul

[Gary V. Deutschmann, Sr.]

Hi Shelton

The common Deionization filters produces water in the range of .05 to
..06 microsiemens, much purer than RO filtration alone.
Used by itself there is no wasted water, but it is at the expense of
recharging your cylinders more often.

If your referring the the AP-TWP Cylinders, they cost roughly $1.00
per each recharge. The first time is a pain because the resins need
to be separated, which is done during the initial part of the recharge
process. If you keep them separated, subsequental recharging is quick
and easy.

Our body needs the electrolytes normally found in treated water, even
RO filtered water leaves much of these electrolytes in the output
stream. DI is too pure and can actually take electrolytes from your
body if consumed by itself. But if used for reconstituting condensed
beverages it would not be harmful as the electrolytes will be added
back into the water. Much like adding sea salt for reef aquaria use.

I used to use RO/DI, but RO is expensive to buy and expensive to
maintain, not to mention the wasted water.
DI resins last forever!
The color change type may lose their color change ability after a few
rechargings, but some new resin can be set aside and a teaspoonful
placed in the output stream can be the exhaustion indicator until you
learn the time length your setup lasts between rechargings.

If you want more info on recharging DI cylinders, check
http://archimedes.galilei.com/raiar
Look in the aquaria section for the AP-TWP recharge instructions.
A link at the end of the instructions will take you to a page on
mixing your own recharging formulas from easily obtainable products.

TTUL
Gary

[Buzby]

On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 14:03:31 +0100, "paulj48" <paulj48at0tmail.c0m>
wrote:

>> I can buy this "de-ionised" water from my wifes work at £4 per
>> 25litres, so just over 5 gals so thats £8 per month or £96, the unit
>> itself (for a reasonable RO/DI) would cost more than that, then the
>> cart costs so I think I could use this prepared water for nearly 3
>> years before it would catch up?
>
>I suppose £4 for 25litres is cheap enough, as long as your wife doesnt mind
>carrying it home for you. My local fish shop sells RO water but I like the
>fact that if I need some water quick I can just make my own, also I dont
>think RO water lasts very long without going stale
>

>I got my unit from www.ro-man.com for £69, its got 2 filters that need to be
>changed every 6 months, I'm happy with the quality of the unit but I've
>never tested the output as I've not got a TDS meter.
>>
>> I have spoken to the company today who say they use a resin filter to
>> remove ALL chemicals from their water so do you think I should be able
>> to use it???
>>
>
>Dont know about this, you coul try posting a message in www.reefcentral.com
>,very good and helpfull site.
>
>Regards
>Paul
>
Most seem to say I should be able to use this water OK, although the
unit you have produces RO water at 2 filters I think you would find
you still get readings on a TDS meter Since most of the more expensive
units have 3 filters & a DI one as well....

The trouble with that is then the £160ish outlay plus £100 to replace
all 4 carts! So thats £360 first year, plus I've been through to the
water board & found out that water & sewerage combined works out to
5.5p per gallon here, so thats £40ish on water as well

So an RO/DI unti would cost £400 first year & then £240 each year
after!!

NOt cheap this hobby which ever way you go!

Cheers Shelton.

[Buzby]

On 19 Jul 2004 10:43:34 EDT, (Gary V.
Deutschmann, Sr.) wrote:

>Hi Shelton
>
>The common Deionization filters produces water in the range of .05 to
>.06 microsiemens, much purer than RO filtration alone.
>Used by itself there is no wasted water, but it is at the expense of
>recharging your cylinders more often.
>
-------------snip---------------------

Thanks Gary, interesting read but I think I'll buy the water & then
all I have to worry about is the wife complaining about the weight of
25ltrs of water :)

Cheers Shelton.

[CapFusion]

"CheezWiz" > wrote in message
...
> Yeah,
>
> A lot of people say that. My setup has a final carbon stage before the
water
> exits the system as a "taste polisher".. I am very curious to see what
the
> water tastes like straight off of the DI cartridge.... I have been
drinking
> RO/DI water for a long time now and am still alive. All my blood work,
liver
> functions, etc.. are normal... The water I drink has no taste at all that
I
> can detect. We siphon it off into a Brita pitcher where it gets filtered
yet
> again (Brita's are carbon and DI resin as well)...
> I like it cold and tasteless myself..

Out of DI, it should be tasteless. Reason is pure water that should not have
any element in it or almost none available.
Why use another filter like Brita since you already have RO/DI? Both does
the basic same thing except your extra DI further removel of element.

I suggest to drink from RO product instead of the DI output.

CapFusion,...

[Marc Levenson]

I don't know your conversion rate, but an RO/DI unit (100gpd
5-stage runs anywhere from $99 to $300. I sell them for
$149 myself. Replacment filters at six months costs $25,
and at one year $55.

That is not expensive at all. Especially when you have
water at your finger tips when you need it any time of day.
I've NEVER regretted buying my own unit, and my tanks
thanks me for it daily.

Marc


Buzby wrote:


> Most seem to say I should be able to use this water OK, although the
> unit you have produces RO water at 2 filters I think you would find
> you still get readings on a TDS meter Since most of the more expensive
> units have 3 filters & a DI one as well....
>
> The trouble with that is then the £160ish outlay plus £100 to replace
> all 4 carts! So thats £360 first year, plus I've been through to the
> water board & found out that water & sewerage combined works out to
> 5.5p per gallon here, so thats £40ish on water as well
>
> So an RO/DI unti would cost £400 first year & then £240 each year
> after!!
>
> NOt cheap this hobby which ever way you go!
>
> Cheers Shelton.

--
Personal Page:
http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[CapFusion]

"Buzby" > wrote in message
...
>

> The water quality is crap to say the least around here (TDS meter
> shows 647!!) So I have been told my waste will be nearer 5:1? On my
> 30gal tank lets say I do 5 gal a month water change & then allow
> another 5gal for top ups during the month, thats 10 gal required?
>

What water you use to test TDS meter from?
647ppm from the source like your tap or from the RO/DI unit? I assumed it
from the tap.
I consider 647ppm is high. My source water reading average out at 240ppm.


> I can buy this "de-ionised" water from my wifes work at £4 per
> 25litres, so just over 5 gals so thats £8 per month or £96, the unit
> itself (for a reasonable RO/DI) would cost more than that, then the
> cart costs so I think I could use this prepared water for nearly 3
> years before it would catch up?
>

What is the reading from your wife company? And would she be willing to lug
those water back home? Or when there emergency that you need water but so
happen you do not have extra water.


> I have spoken to the company today who say they use a resin filter to
> remove ALL chemicals from their water so do you think I should be able
> to use it???

Check with your TDS meter to see if there any high reading.

CapFusion,....

[Fishnut]

On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 17:54:43 GMT, Buzby
> wrote:

>
>>
>Most seem to say I should be able to use this water OK, although the
>unit you have produces RO water at 2 filters I think you would find
>you still get readings on a TDS meter Since most of the more expensive
>units have 3 filters & a DI one as well....
>
>The trouble with that is then the £160ish outlay plus £100 to replace
>all 4 carts! So thats £360 first year, plus I've been through to the
>water board & found out that water & sewerage combined works out to
>5.5p per gallon here, so thats £40ish on water as well
>
>So an RO/DI unti would cost £400 first year & then £240 each year
>after!!
>
>NOt cheap this hobby which ever way you go!
>
>Cheers Shelton.

Shelton,

I do not know where you are getting these prices from, but you ought
to try mailorder.

You replace the sediment filter and the carbon filter every six
months. Although if you are only using small amounts of RO/DI water
they will last longer. These filters are quite cheap. The DI filter
should last for a year, at least. The expensive one is the membrane,
which should last (say) 3 years, so I think your cost estimates are
far too high. If you buy the magazine Practical Fish Keeping
(recommended), you will find many MO companies listed. I use Animal
House mostly.

Regards, Fishnut.

[Buzby]

On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 20:30:04 GMT, Marc Levenson
> wrote:

>I don't know your conversion rate, but an RO/DI unit (100gpd
> 5-stage runs anywhere from $99 to $300. I sell them for
>$149 myself. Replacment filters at six months costs $25,
>and at one year $55.
>
>That is not expensive at all. Especially when you have
>water at your finger tips when you need it any time of day.
> I've NEVER regretted buying my own unit, and my tanks
>thanks me for it daily.
>
>Marc

Hi mate,

Here in the UK you can normally say what you pay in dollars we pay in
pounds, thus an RO unit would be £99-£300 ($168-$510) it could be that
I thought EACH filter was £25 rather than a set?

Another thing is the unit wouldf have to be outdoors for me on an
external tap in the garden?

Cheers Shelton.

[CheezWiz]

"DI is too pure and can actually take electrolytes from your
body if consumed by itself."

Again I must disagree with this statement.
From my earlier post:

I have to disagree with that "Urban Legend"......

The issue is whether or not a given DI cartridge is rated for "Potable
Water"
production.

Found this scientific explanation as to why drinking pure water is harmless.
The body is pre-equipped to do this. By drinking pure water, one simply
reduces the risk of intake of "bad stuff" that could be in the water. Of
course the cost goes up as DI filters are not incredibly cheap. However they
are not incredibly expensive either....

"
As stated by DR Arthur L Guyton in 1991 The kidneys control the overall
concentrations of the constituents of body fluids. It filters about 180
liters of water per day, over 99% is reabsorbed and 1 to 1.5 liters are
eliminated as urine. If the osmolality of the fluid to be filtered by the
kidney is lower than normal, nervous and hormonal feedback cause the kidney
to excrete more water than normal and maintain the ion concentration in the
body at normal values. The opposite is true if the ion concentration of the
fluid to be filtered is higher than normal. The kidney homeostatic mechanism
keeps the body fluid osmolality normal.The three basic hormonal and nervous
control systemstriggered by abnormal ion concentrations are the antidiuretic
hormone (ADH) from the pituatary gland, aldosterone from the adrenal glands
and thirst because thirst is caused by a 1% rise in osmolality. Because of
these kidney control mechanisms, drinking one liter of water would cause the
urine output to increase about 9 times after 45 minutes and continue for
about two hours. Thus the concentrations of solutes in the blood and other
body fluids are quickly maintained by the the kidneythrough homeostasis.
these control mechanisms keep the sodium concentration at 7%. Calcium
concentration is controlled by parathyroid hormone to + a few percent in the
extracellular body fluid. Also, Saliva increases the ion concentrations
during water intake. The concentration of sodium chloride in saliva is
typically 15 milliequivalents per liter or 877 mg/L that of potassium is
about 30 milliequivalents per liter or 1170 mg/L. As low TDS water is
consumed, it is combined with saliva which increases the TDS before it
reaches the stomach to be absorbed. Each one millileter of saliva can
increase the TDS level in eight ounces water consumed by about 10 mg/L.
Basicly any changes from normal ion concentration will be corrected in one
minute or less because of the fast pace of water through the cell membranes.
Sosmall changes in osmolality (ion concentration)
are quicly brought to an equilibrium........
"


"Gary V. Deutschmann, Sr." > wrote in message
...
> Hi Shelton
>
> The common Deionization filters produces water in the range of .05 to
> .06 microsiemens, much purer than RO filtration alone.
> Used by itself there is no wasted water, but it is at the expense of
> recharging your cylinders more often.
>
> If your referring the the AP-TWP Cylinders, they cost roughly $1.00
> per each recharge. The first time is a pain because the resins need
> to be separated, which is done during the initial part of the recharge
> process. If you keep them separated, subsequental recharging is quick
> and easy.
>
> Our body needs the electrolytes normally found in treated water, even
> RO filtered water leaves much of these electrolytes in the output
> stream. DI is too pure and can actually take electrolytes from your
> body if consumed by itself. But if used for reconstituting condensed
> beverages it would not be harmful as the electrolytes will be added
> back into the water. Much like adding sea salt for reef aquaria use.
>
> I used to use RO/DI, but RO is expensive to buy and expensive to
> maintain, not to mention the wasted water.
> DI resins last forever!
> The color change type may lose their color change ability after a few
> rechargings, but some new resin can be set aside and a teaspoonful
> placed in the output stream can be the exhaustion indicator until you
> learn the time length your setup lasts between rechargings.
>
> If you want more info on recharging DI cylinders, check
> http://archimedes.galilei.com/raiar
> Look in the aquaria section for the AP-TWP recharge instructions.
> A link at the end of the instructions will take you to a page on
> mixing your own recharging formulas from easily obtainable products.
>
> TTUL
> Gary
>

[Buzby]

On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 13:45:14 -0700, "CapFusion"
<CapeFussion...@hotmail.., com> wrote:

>
>"Buzby" > wrote in message
...
>>
>
>> The water quality is crap to say the least around here (TDS meter
>> shows 647!!) So I have been told my waste will be nearer 5:1? On my
>> 30gal tank lets say I do 5 gal a month water change & then allow
>> another 5gal for top ups during the month, thats 10 gal required?
>>
>
>What water you use to test TDS meter from?
>647ppm from the source like your tap or from the RO/DI unit? I assumed it
>from the tap.
>I consider 647ppm is high. My source water reading average out at 240ppm.
>

Its 647 from the tap, thus why I was told it will take more water than
average to produce a clean gallon


>
>> I can buy this "de-ionised" water from my wifes work at £4 per
>> 25litres, so just over 5 gals so thats £8 per month or £96, the unit
>> itself (for a reasonable RO/DI) would cost more than that, then the
>> cart costs so I think I could use this prepared water for nearly 3
>> years before it would catch up?
>>
>
>What is the reading from your wife company? And would she be willing to lug
>those water back home? Or when there emergency that you need water but so
>happen you do not have extra water.
>

The TDS reading on that water is 0, the company holds 30 x 25ltr
containers of it so I was thinking of buying one to use as evap topups
& then another as a pre-madeup salt solution, that would last me 2
water changes. She can get that water 6 days a week, so only a sunday
would cause a problem & only then if I didn't have any water at all?
Luckily she is quite happy to stick 1 or 2 in the boot of the car &
bring home :)

The local fish store is open on a sunday & he has RO water forsale so
I could go there then thinking about it :)

>
>> I have spoken to the company today who say they use a resin filter to
>> remove ALL chemicals from their water so do you think I should be able
>> to use it???
>
>Check with your TDS meter to see if there any high reading.
>
>CapFusion,....
>

As above she checked one that had been opened that they were using &
its 0, she actually rang me thinking the meter had broken or wasn't
working cos it read 0 :))) (I got her to try it on their ordinary tap
water)

Cheers Shelton.

[CapFusion]

"Buzby" > wrote in message
...
>

> Its 647 from the tap, thus why I was told it will take more water than
> average to produce a clean gallon
>

High level will certainly exhaust your sediment first and will contribute to
the rest of the cart. and the unit.
Since I not too familiar the conversion rate between pound and dollar but
just using dollar, sediment cart. is very relatively cheap like arount 3 - 6
buck [dollar].
Our 6.00USD should be about ~3.20273 GBP
This link sell sediment about 6.00USD
http://www.aquaticreefsystems.com/Aquarium_PreFilters_Accessories.htm
Sediment will do most of the work then Carbon will.
Carbon block will be the next higher cost. but should not be too much. Range
about 10.00USD.

You simply add one or two sediment unit prior to Carbon to save some buck.
The drawback is lower PSI to the rest of the unit. Your sediment unit simply
need to change more often if you use your water more often when compare to
other with lesser ppm level.


>
> The TDS reading on that water is 0, the company holds 30 x 25ltr
> containers of it so I was thinking of buying one to use as evap topups
> & then another as a pre-madeup salt solution, that would last me 2
> water changes. She can get that water 6 days a week, so only a sunday
> would cause a problem & only then if I didn't have any water at all?
> Luckily she is quite happy to stick 1 or 2 in the boot of the car &
> bring home :)
>
> The local fish store is open on a sunday & he has RO water forsale so
> I could go there then thinking about it :)
>

It seem like a good plan. If this work out cheaper for you, then by all
mean, go with it.



> As above she checked one that had been opened that they were using &
> its 0, she actually rang me thinking the meter had broken or wasn't
> working cos it read 0 :))) (I got her to try it on their ordinary tap
> water)

For person does not know about reading TDS meter, most will assumed higher
number should be good.

CapFusion,...

[Buzby]

On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 21:47:08 GMT, Fishnut >
wrote:


>Shelton,
>
>I do not know where you are getting these prices from, but you ought
>to try mailorder.
>
>You replace the sediment filter and the carbon filter every six
>months. Although if you are only using small amounts of RO/DI water
>they will last longer. These filters are quite cheap. The DI filter
>should last for a year, at least. The expensive one is the membrane,
>which should last (say) 3 years, so I think your cost estimates are
>far too high. If you buy the magazine Practical Fish Keeping
>(recommended), you will find many MO companies listed. I use Animal
>House mostly.
>
>Regards, Fishnut.

I took an average, though as I said I may have gotten the replacement
cart prices wrong, but again I was told that because the water quality
from the tap is crap around here the carts don't last as long?

Cheers Shelton.

[CapFusion]

"Buzby" > wrote in message
...
>
> I took an average, though as I said I may have gotten the replacement
> cart prices wrong, but again I was told that because the water quality
> from the tap is crap around here the carts don't last as long?
>

Higher content in the water, the more or faster it will get clog. Normally
those people that have higher level will try to waste the sediment and
prolong the carbon and especially the membrane. Sediment is cheaper.

CapFusion,...

[John]

>It's just water. Very clean water.

Exactly, with no chlorine to inhibit bacteria, this is the reason it is unsafe
to drink.

Here's is my cut and paste to add to this:

The reason you can drink the RO water that you buy in the grocery store
(or where ever you buy it) is that those machines use cellulose acetate
membranes to perform the reverse osmosis. They are extremely susceptible
to bacteria, and highly tolerant of chlorine. So even though they remove
90-95% of the ionics and all of the colloids, the CA membrane passes
enough of the chlorine to keep the bacteria from growing. So your "pure"
drinking water still has a few odds and ends left in it.

Cellulose Acetate membranes are "old" technology. Newer membranes are
thin-film composites, with much higher throughputs and higher rejection
rates (purer product), and higher tolerance of bacteria. But they have
almost no tolerance for chlorine. These are the membranes that are in most
medium and large systems. These systems will have an activated charcoal
filter before the RO to remove the chlorine. This RO water is highly
unsafe to drink, since there is nothing left to inhibit the growth of
bacteria. And some really nasty bugs can live in the dark on just water
and carbon based molecules, whether it be plastic or your digestive tract.

Most bottled water is sterilized with ozone, put into the bottle and sealed.
Ozone in water has a 20 minute half-life at room temperature, and the
ozone that comes out of solution sterilizes the inside-top of the
container. By the time you get the bottle home, you have oxygen-rich
sterile water. So until you break the seal and let bugs in, it stays sterile.

~John

[Marc Levenson]

Sure, it would work in the garden, but I would put a cover
over it so nuisance algae didn't try to grow in the
canisters. And also, in the winter when it freezes out, you
need to bring it in or it will crack open when the water
turns to solid ice.

One guy ordered a new one from me just because of that very
situation.

Marc


Buzby wrote:
> Hi mate,
>
> Here in the UK you can normally say what you pay in dollars we pay in
> pounds, thus an RO unit would be £99-£300 ($168-$510) it could be that
> I thought EACH filter was £25 rather than a set?
>
> Another thing is the unit wouldf have to be outdoors for me on an
> external tap in the garden?
>
> Cheers Shelton.

--
Personal Page:
http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/oanda/index.html
Business Page: http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com
Marine Hobbyist: http://www.melevsreef.com

[Gary V. Deutschmann, Sr.]

Thats right! AFTER the water eventually makes it to the kidneys.

Check out an article on stomach lining irritation and breakdown from
overly pure water. The particular article I remember reading not to
long ago was based on triple distilled water which is slightly more
pure than deionized. I believe it may have been on the Barnstead
website?

TTUL
Gary

[Gary V. Deutschmann, Sr.]

Hi Krippy

Depends on where that water comes from and what it undergoes before it
reaches your tap.

I never said that water was the sole source of electrolytes or that it
is even considered a source for same, only that the purer the water
the less food value it does have, and it can get so pure that it can
become a molecular adsorbent.

Really Pure water such as triple distilled can become contaminated
from simply sucking ammonia and other contaminants right from the air
it is exposed to.

Then we also have the issue of potability to consider.

TTUL
Gary

[Gary V. Deutschmann, Sr.]

Amen John!

The purified water we use for packaging is bombarded with UV, prior to
last stage filtering and heavily ozonated combined with final 1 micron
filtering (cold sterilization) before being mixed with our ingredients
and brought up to packaging temperatures.

TTUL
Gary

[CheezWiz]

Check this out:

http://www.drweil.com/app/cda/drw_cda.html-command=TodayQA-pt=Question-questionId=21181


"Gary V. Deutschmann, Sr." > wrote in message
...
> Thats right! AFTER the water eventually makes it to the kidneys.
>
> Check out an article on stomach lining irritation and breakdown from
> overly pure water. The particular article I remember reading not to
> long ago was based on triple distilled water which is slightly more
> pure than deionized. I believe it may have been on the Barnstead
> website?
>
> TTUL
> Gary
>

[Sander Vesik]

John > wrote:
> >It's just water. Very clean water.
>
> Exactly, with no chlorine to inhibit bacteria, this is the reason it is unsafe
> to drink.

huh? you don't seriously want to say that un-chlorinated water is somehow
less safe because of bacteria than chlorinated water? Or that the chlorine
found in say natural spring water is a serious enough impediment to bacteria?

[snip]

>
> ~John

--
Sander

+++ Out of cheese error +++

[John]

>you don't seriously want to say that un-chlorinated water is somehow
>less safe because of bacteria than chlorinated water?

That's what I said.

>Or that the chlorine
>found in say natural spring water is a serious enough impediment to bacteria?

Who said that?
~John