View Full Version : Hard Water Tetras?
rapdor
September 11th 03, 11:54 AM
Somewhere, I read that there are tetras that prefer hard water, but can't
find it now. My tank has GH 120, KH 70 and pH 7.4. What tetras would be
suitable for these conditions? Thanks.
Gail Futoran
September 11th 03, 04:26 PM
"rapdor" > wrote in message
...
> Somewhere, I read that there are tetras that prefer hard
water, but can't
> find it now. My tank has GH 120, KH 70 and pH 7.4. What
tetras would be
> suitable for these conditions? Thanks.
My water tends to be hard and has a pH of about 7.6. I read
in several places that Bloodfin Tetras tend to do better in
those conditions than other Tetras (small ones, anyone). So
far my Bloodfins are doing fine, much better than the Neon
Tetras (different tanks, but similar water conditions).
Gail
rapdor
September 11th 03, 08:08 PM
"Graham Ramsay" > wrote in message
...
> "rapdor"wrote
> >GH 120, KH 70
>
> What units? Those numbers are a bit odd.
>
mg/L (The tank has only been set up for a week)
RedForeman ©®
September 11th 03, 08:56 PM
Copied from AP's website...
Freshwater General Hardness & Carbonate Hardness Test Kit
Purpose and Benefits:
General hardness is the measure of calcium (Ca++) and magnesium (Mg++) ion
concentrations dissolved in water. These minerals are present in municipal,
well and bottled spring water. The level of general hardness in tap and
bottled water depends on the source of the water and the treatment processes
it has undergone. Hard water (>200 ppm) is high in calcium and magnesium,
while soft water (50 to 100 ppm) is low in these minerals. The Aquarium
Pharmaceuticals GH (General Hardness) Test measures GH in German degrees
(°dGH). To convert °dGH to parts per million (ppm), multiply °dGH x 17.9.
Note: ppm and milligrams per liter (mg/L) are equivalent.
Carbonate hardness (also known as alkalinity) is the measure of carbonate
(CO32-) and bicarbonate (HCO3-) ion concentrations dissolved in water. These
minerals are present in municipal, well, and bottled spring water. The level
of carbonate hardness in tap and bottled water depends on the source of the
water and the treatment processes it has undergone. Carbonate hardness helps
stabilize pH in the aquarium. An aquarium with a low KH level (50 ppm or
less) will tend to be acidic. Aquariums with very low KH are subject to
rapid pH shifts, if not monitored carefully. Water with a high KH level
(>200 ppm) usually has a high pH. The Aquarium Pharmaceuticals KH (Carbonate
Hardness) Test measures KH in German degrees (°dKH). To convert °dKH to
parts per million (ppm), multiply °dKH x 17.9. Note: ppm and milligrams per
liter (mg/L) are equivalent.
Aquarists seek to provide a healthy aquarium environment by duplicating the
water conditions of the natural habitats of their fish. Tap water rarely
provides the water conditions necessary to maintain an optimal aquarium.
Some tap water supplies have a very low KH level (below 3 °dKH). This type
of water has very little pH buffering capacity and can contribute to wide pH
swings in the aquarium. When water evaporates from the aquarium, it leaves
behind hardness ions. Topping off with tap water simply adds more minerals
to the aquarium, resulting in a steady increase in GH. It is therefore
necessary to test the GH and KH frequently to monitor water quality and
prevent stressful conditions from occurring. Use the table below to create
the ideal water hardness levels for your aquarium fish. When keeping a
community aquarium with a variety of tropical fish, adjust the GH and KH to
3° - 6° (50 - 100 ppm).
GH & KH RANGE_________AQUARIUM LIFE
0°-3° (0-50 ppm)..........................discus, arowanas, elephantnose,
neons, cardinals, live plants
3°-6° (50-100 ppm).............most tropical fish including angelfish,
cichlids, tetras, botia, live plants
6°-11° (100-200 ppm)..................most tropical fish including
swordtails, guppies, mollies, goldfish
11°-22° (200-400 ppm)...............Rift lake cichlids, goldfish, brackish
water fish
Directions for Use:
Directions for Testing General Hardness (GH)
Read thoroughly before testing. Do not allow Test Solutions to get into
aquarium.
To remove childproof safety cap:
With one hand, push red tab left with thumb while unscrewing cap with free
hand.
1. Rinse a clean test tube with water to be tested.
2. Fill the test tube with 5 ml of aquarium water (to the line on the test
tube).
3. Add General Hardness Test Solution, one drop at a time, holding dropper
bottle upside down in a completely vertical position to assure uniformity of
drops. After first drop is added, solution will turn orange. If the water
sample contains only 1°dGH, the solution will turn from clear to its green
endpoint after the first drop is added.
4. Cap the test tube and invert several times after each drop. Keep count of
the drops being added. Do not hold finger over open end of the tube, as this
may affect the test results.
5. The test is completed when the water in the test tube, after having been
shaken, turns from orange to green. If you have difficulty discerning the co
lor after the first drop of test solution is added, remove the cap from the
test tube and while holding it over a white background, look down through
the tube.
6. The General Hardness value is determined by the number of drops of the
solution that must be added to turn the water in the test tube green. Each
drop is equal to 1°dGH or 17.9 ppm GH.
Directions for Testing Carbonate Hardness (KH)
Read thoroughly before testing. Do not allow test solution to get into
aquarium.
To remove childproof safety cap:
With one hand, push red tab left with thumb while unscrewing cap with free
hand.
1. Rinse a clean test tube with water to be tested.
2. Fill the test tube with 5 ml of aquarium water (to the line on the test
tube).
3. Add Carbonate Hardness Test Solution, one drop at a time, holding dropper
bottle upside down in a completely vertical position to assure uniformity of
drops. After first drop is added, solution will turn blue. If the water
sample contains only 1°dKH, the solution will turn from clear to its yellow
endpoint after the first drop is added.
4. Cap the test tube and invert several times after each drop. Keep count of
the drops being added. Do not hold finger over open end of the tube, as this
may affect the test results.
5. The test is completed when the water in the test tube, after having been
shaken, turns from blue to bright yellow. If you have difficulty discerning
the color after the first drop of test solution is added, remove the cap
from the test tube and while holding it over a white background, look down
through the tube.
6. The Carbonate Hardness value is determined by the number of drops of the
solution that must be added to turn the water in the test tube bright
yellow. Each drop is equal to 1 °dKH or 17.9 ppm KH, (see the chart).
Compatibility:
The GH test Kit measures the combined level of calcium and magnesium in
freshwater. This kit cannot be used to measure the level of calcium in reef
aquariums. The KH test Kit can be used in fresh and sal****er aquariums.
Reducing GH in freshwater:
General Hardness can be lowered with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Water Softener
Pillow. The ion exchange resin in the Water Softener Pillow lowers GH by
removing calcium and magnesium ions. The Water Softener Pillow will not
lower KH. Partial water changes with deionized water will gradually reduce
GH to the desired level.Increasing GH in freshwater:African cichlids and
brackish water fish require hard water with a pH of 8.2. Commercially
available African cichlid or marine salts will increase GH and KH levels.
Lowering KH in freshwater:
Lowering KH is best accomplished by diluting the aquarium water with
deionized water. Deionized water contains no KH or GH. Partial water changes
will gradually reduce KH to the desirable level.
Increasing KH in freshwater and sal****er:
KH can be increased with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Proper pH" buffers. Proper
pH 6.5, 7.0 and 7.5 are non-carbonate buffers that automatically adjust pH
and increase KH. Proper pH will raise or lower pH, stabilizing it at the
pre-set pH level. Proper pH 8.2 is a carbonate buffer suitable for marine
and African cichlid aquariums. Proper pH 6.5, 7.0, and 7.5 are phosphate
buffers and should not be used in aquariums with live plants. Small amounts
of Proper pH 8.2 should be used to maintain KH in planted aquariums,
especially when using supplemental carbon dioxide systems.
"rapdor" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Graham Ramsay" > wrote in message
> ...
> > "rapdor"wrote
> > >GH 120, KH 70
> >
> > What units? Those numbers are a bit odd.
> >
>
> mg/L (The tank has only been set up for a week)
>
>
Mean_Chlorine
September 13th 03, 04:15 PM
"RedForeman ©®" > wrote in message >...
> Copied from AP's website...
They don't separate between GH, KH, and alkalnity, and say things such
as that their non-carbonate (read: phosphate) buffer will increase KH.
It doesn't really, but it will give a higher reading on their KH test
kit, as it really measures alkalinity, not KH.
Incidentally: if anyone knows of a good reason for aquarists to check
GH, ie the amount of (mainly) magnesium and calcium ions recalculated
as CaCO3 equivalents, a measure originally used to estimate how much
boiler-scale a water would produce in a steam engine, I'd be
interested in hearing it.
Racf
September 13th 03, 10:01 PM
"Mean_Chlorine" > wrote in message
om...
> "RedForeman ©®" > wrote in message
>...
>
> > Copied from AP's website...
>
> They don't separate between GH, KH, and alkalnity, and say things such
> as that their non-carbonate (read: phosphate) buffer will increase KH.
>
> It doesn't really, but it will give a higher reading on their KH test
> kit, as it really measures alkalinity, not KH.
>
> Incidentally: if anyone knows of a good reason for aquarists to check
> GH, ie the amount of (mainly) magnesium and calcium ions recalculated
> as CaCO3 equivalents, a measure originally used to estimate how much
> boiler-scale a water would produce in a steam engine, I'd be
> interested in hearing it.
To know how hard the water is. I use a cheap TDS meter for my purposes.
For the most part my hardness is all gH....I add small little bits of
baking soda to constitute my kH. How would anyone be able to
successfully breed Amazonian species without knowing their water
hardness and be able to control it?
Robert Flory
September 14th 03, 04:48 AM
"Mean_Chlorine" > wrote in message
om...
> "RedForeman ©®" > wrote in message
>...
>
> > Copied from AP's website...
>
> They don't separate between GH, KH, and alkalnity, and say things such
> as that their non-carbonate (read: phosphate) buffer will increase KH.
>
> It doesn't really, but it will give a higher reading on their KH test
> kit, as it really measures alkalinity, not KH.
>
> Incidentally: if anyone knows of a good reason for aquarists to check
> GH, ie the amount of (mainly) magnesium and calcium ions recalculated
> as CaCO3 equivalents, a measure originally used to estimate how much
> boiler-scale a water would produce in a steam engine, I'd be
> interested in hearing it.
It is my understanding that plants are hard to grow if the GH is less than
3-4. Plants need Mg which along with Ca typically make up much of what GH
measures. Also most "soft water plants" will also grow in harder water...
most hard water plants don't do well in soft water.
Bob
Mean_Chlorine
September 14th 03, 12:35 PM
"Racf" > wrote in message et>...
> > Incidentally: if anyone knows of a good reason for aquarists to check
> > GH, ie the amount of (mainly) magnesium and calcium ions recalculated
> > as CaCO3 equivalents, a measure originally used to estimate how much
> > boiler-scale a water would produce in a steam engine, I'd be
> > interested in hearing it.
>
> To know how hard the water is. I use a cheap TDS meter for my purposes.
> For the most part my hardness is all gH....I add small little bits of
> baking soda to constitute my kH. How would anyone be able to
> successfully breed Amazonian species without knowing their water
> hardness and be able to control it?
Yes but... GH? TDS is a totally different beast, and I think* that
it's a good thing to measure, as is alkalinity, but GH?
If you knew pH and alkalinity, why would you want to know GH?
Thought experiment: If your pH and alkalinity were fine, and you added
some calcium nitrate to the aquarium so that GH went through the roof,
would there be reason to suspect that amazonians would fail to breed?
(lets ignore the fertilizer effect of nitrate for this thought
experiment)
* the reason I'm a bit confused about TDS, is that it seems to require
knowledge of the chemical composition of the water. AFAI can
understand, I'd get the same TDS but completely different pH and
alkalinity if I dissolved x grams of sodium bicarbonate in one jar,
sodium chloride in another jar, potassium nitrate in a third jar, and
calcium oxide in a fourth.
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