Manufactured Stone?

[John Lange]

What is the general consensus on "Manufactured" or "Cultured" stone for
large aquarium backgrounds & deco? I want to do a background with a layered
limestone or sandstone effect with shelves and ledges.

http://www.culturedstone.com/
http://www.madisonblockandstone.com/masonry/sitemapcultured.html

<quote>
CULTURED STONE® is a manufactured stone with the additional advantages of
light weight and ease of installation. It is cast in molds taken from
carefully-selected natural stone. Each color and texture uses its own blend
of Portland cement, lightweight natural aggregates and iron oxide pigments.
Even on close examination, these manufactured stones look and feel just like
the originals. </quote>

I think my main concern is the "Iron Oxide" pigments.

[Andy Hill]

"John Lange" > wrote:
>What is the general consensus on "Manufactured" or "Cultured" stone for
>large aquarium backgrounds & deco? I want to do a background with a layered
>limestone or sandstone effect with shelves and ledges.
>
>http://www.culturedstone.com/
>http://www.madisonblockandstone.com/masonry/sitemapcultured.html
>
><quote>
>CULTURED STONE® is a manufactured stone with the additional advantages of
>light weight and ease of installation. It is cast in molds taken from
>carefully-selected natural stone. Each color and texture uses its own blend
>of Portland cement, lightweight natural aggregates and iron oxide pigments.
>Even on close examination, these manufactured stones look and feel just like
>the originals. </quote>
>
>I think my main concern is the "Iron Oxide" pigments.
>
Never tried 'em, but why worry about a little rust -- it's about as non-reactive
as they come. I'd be a lot more concerned about the cement base...it's going
to keep pushing your water to the alkaline side (not necessarily a problem, but
not good for some classes of fishies).

[Michi Henning]

"Andy Hill" > wrote in message
...
> >I think my main concern is the "Iron Oxide" pigments.
> >
> Never tried 'em, but why worry about a little rust -- it's about as
non-reactive
> as they come. I'd be a lot more concerned about the cement base...it's
going
> to keep pushing your water to the alkaline side (not necessarily a problem,
but
> not good for some classes of fishies).

Get a piece of the stuff, put it in a bucket full of your aquarium water, put a
lid
on, and measure water values every few days for maybe three weeks. If you
don't notice any changes during that time, you are most likely safe.

Cheers,

Michi.

--
Michi Henning Ph: +61 4 1118-2700
ZeroC, Inc. http://www.zeroc.com

[NetMax]

"Michi Henning" > wrote in message
...
> "Andy Hill" > wrote in message
> ...
> > >I think my main concern is the "Iron Oxide" pigments.
> > >
> > Never tried 'em, but why worry about a little rust -- it's about as
> non-reactive
> > as they come. I'd be a lot more concerned about the cement
base...it's
> going
> > to keep pushing your water to the alkaline side (not necessarily a
problem,
> but
> > not good for some classes of fishies).
>
> Get a piece of the stuff, put it in a bucket full of your aquarium
water, put a
> lid
> on, and measure water values every few days for maybe three weeks. If
you
> don't notice any changes during that time, you are most likely safe.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Michi.

If you find that it's hardening the water and raising the pH, (and it's
undesirable for your type of fish) you can acidify the water to get the
manufactured stone to finish leeching faster. This only works with
manufactured stones, not natural stones. The time it will take depends
on the thickness of the stones, how acidic your concentration and how
many water changes you do. Two-three weeks is typical.

To initially test for leeching probability, drip acid on the stones. The
product pH down is what I use for testing. A fizzing reaction indicates
that it will leech. Note that no fizzing does not indicate it is 100%
non-leeching. Utah ice does not fizz and leeches calcium, but not
carbonates, so the fizzing might be a reaction to carbonates rather than
calcium. Calcium & carbonates often occur together, but not always.
ymmv

To test for toxicity, add some feeders to a pail with the stones in
question.

Avoid green in any stones as it might be copper (very toxic).

ps: Michi, awesome background!!!
NetMax

[Michi Henning]

"NetMax" > wrote in message
...

> Note that no fizzing does not indicate it is 100%
> non-leeching. Utah ice does not fizz and leeches calcium, but not
> carbonates, so the fizzing might be a reaction to carbonates rather than
> calcium. Calcium & carbonates often occur together, but not always.

Ah, I didn't know that, thanks!

> ps: Michi, awesome background!!!

Thanks! When I put it in, I figured I had better like it because I'll
never get it back out of there without destroying the tank -- silicon
makes for a remarkably strong glue... :-)

Cheers,

Michi.

--
Michi Henning Ph: +61 4 1118-2700
ZeroC, Inc. http://www.zeroc.com