Need Fish Advice

[Bowling_Guy]

Hi,

My new tank is coming along fine. I have a 55 gallon tank with an XP3
filter, Hagen Powerhead, EBO-Jager Heater, Eheim auto feeder, some cool
decorations - driftwood, coral, etc. I'm getting ready to cycle my tank. I
have a goldfish and a Parrot fish that I will recruit for this task.
Anyway, I've been holding off on the substrate. I originally thought I
would go with fake plants but decided against it and not want to plant
several real plants. I just tested my PH and it's around 7-7.2.

1. Should I introduce the plants when I cycle the tank?

2. How long should I wait until I introduce my two old buddies to the new
tank?

3. I need desperate help with selection of fish. I want colorful, playful
fish that won't tear one another apart. I've read alot about Cichlids.
They seem to be a beautiful species. However, I honestly don't know what
type of fish to get for the tank. Are Cichlids the way to go? Does anyone
else have any suggestions for other breeds?

4. The type of fish I buy and the plants have me guessing about the
substrate.
I'd appreciate suggestions for substrate that would match the fish you
suggest and that would be good with plants.

Thanks in advance-

[NetMax]

"Bowling_Guy" > wrote in message
. net...
> Hi,
>
> My new tank is coming along fine. I have a 55 gallon tank with an XP3
> filter, Hagen Powerhead, EBO-Jager Heater, Eheim auto feeder, some cool
> decorations - driftwood, coral, etc. I'm getting ready to cycle my
tank. I
> have a goldfish and a Parrot fish that I will recruit for this task.
> Anyway, I've been holding off on the substrate. I originally thought I
> would go with fake plants but decided against it and not want to plant
> several real plants. I just tested my PH and it's around 7-7.2.
>
> 1. Should I introduce the plants when I cycle the tank?

This is a really good question which has occasionally been debated to
death (google the r.a.f.plants archives). Suffice to say, that in the
final analysis, it won't make that much of a difference. The plants
bring in nitrifying bacteria (on their leaves), and will in most cases,
remove an insignificant amount of NH3/4 and NO2 from the water. Your
tank will still cycle with plants. It might take a few days more (or
less), and it may reduce the magnitude of the spikes, but unless there
are a _lot_ of plants, and they are all in growing condition, if just
should not make that much of a difference (newly introduced plants often
take a while before they are efficiently removing anything from the water
column, with the exception of water-column feeders such as Frogbit,
Pennywort etc).

> 2. How long should I wait until I introduce my two old buddies to the
new
> tank?

The time it takes for the de-chlor to work (10 minutes), any chlorine or
dissolved gases to evaporate or dissipate (24 hours), your heater to be
set and your water warmed (12 hours) and for you to have confidence in
the operation of all your filters (10 minutes to 3 days, depending on
complexity). Basically, ASAP as your buddies are the ammonia source.

Keep in mind that as soon as the ammonia is detected, you don't need to
leave the fish in. They did their part. You can move them back into
cycled tanks, and the cycling will complete itself, with no fish.

> 3. I need desperate help with selection of fish. I want colorful,
playful
> fish that won't tear one another apart. I've read alot about Cichlids.
> They seem to be a beautiful species. However, I honestly don't know
what
> type of fish to get for the tank. Are Cichlids the way to go? Does
anyone
> else have any suggestions for other breeds?

My suggestions will vary with the time of the day, but here is mine now:

Colorful playful fish is a tankful of Tiger barbs, 8 regular, 8 albino
and 8 green. Throw in some interesting bottom-feeders (who the Tigers
will ignore). Rainbow shark, Bushynose, Whiptail pleco, Hillstream
loach, and a garrison of Kuhlis to guard your Cryptocorne underbrush, a
flock of Corys, to wander aimlessly about, a gaggle of Clown loaches, to
vie for the centre of attention, etc etc :o) A school of Rummynose would
go well in there too. Maybe a dozen Silver Hatchets too. That layers
your tank nicely (probably too many fish).

> 4. The type of fish I buy and the plants have me guessing about the
> substrate.

Go with a natural colour, fine gravel substrate. This is the most
accomodating choice, so that your future needs will not be seriously
curtailed.

NetMax

> I'd appreciate suggestions for substrate that would match the fish you
> suggest and that would be good with plants.
>
> Thanks in advance-

[Bowling_Guy]

Thanks Netmax:

I just printed out your post and will look for the fish you suggested. My
deciscion to go with live plants was made when I received an order of fake
silk plants. I decided that they don't look too good. Anyway, I have a few
more questions I hope you can answer for me.

1. I am building my own canopy/hood and and was wondering if I can use
regular scew in flourecent bulbs? For 55 gallons I was thinking of using 4.
They equal 60 watts each which is about a bit more then 4-5 watts per gal.
I have sockets that will mount vertically. The screw in bulbs are lighter
then using a tube fixture and easy to change and wire. My problem arises in
the light spectrum that these bulbs put out. I'm using them now in all my
lamps and they put out a cool white light. Do I need to invest in special
bulbs? Can I use regular grow bulbs or do I need to order specialy bulbs?
I've read that there isn't much of a difference?

2. My next question is about how to setup my filter. I bought Nitra Zorb,
Ceramic rings, bio checm stars, activated charcoal, and sponges. Is there
anyting that I am missing. Is there a certain order to filling the filter?

Thanks in advance

[NetMax]

"Bowling_Guy" > wrote in message
. net...
> Thanks Netmax:
>
> I just printed out your post and will look for the fish you suggested.
My
> deciscion to go with live plants was made when I received an order of
fake
> silk plants. I decided that they don't look too good. Anyway, I have a
few
> more questions I hope you can answer for me.

Silk plants do fill a niche which real plants cannot, so consider using
both. For example, silk works better than real in a dark corner hiding
heaters, filter pipes etc.

> 1. I am building my own canopy/hood and and was wondering if I can use
> regular scew in flourecent bulbs? For 55 gallons I was thinking of
using 4.
> They equal 60 watts each which is about a bit more then 4-5 watts per
gal.
> I have sockets that will mount vertically. The screw in bulbs are
lighter
> then using a tube fixture and easy to change and wire. My problem
arises in
> the light spectrum that these bulbs put out. I'm using them now in all
my
> lamps and they put out a cool white light. Do I need to invest in
special
> bulbs? Can I use regular grow bulbs or do I need to order specialy
bulbs?
> I've read that there isn't much of a difference?

Regular tubes are 48" long and are rated 40W. The most common size (T12
I think) is readily available and cheap. When building a DIY set-up with
multiple lights, there is less emphasis on specialty lights. For
example, the last 4 tube set-up I built used:

2 Philips F40-DX Daylight CRI 85, 6500K $3cdn each (Home Depot)
1 Sylvania F40/GRO/AQ/WS Gro-Lux $7.50cdn (Home Hardware)
1 GE F40C50 Chroma 50 Sunshine CRI 90, 5000K $7cdn (Canadian Tire)
- for the princely sum of $20.50cdn (or $12.50 US)

I'm very satisfied with the blended spectrum they provide. When you only
have one light, then it becomes more worthwhile to go with a specialty.
When picking lights, note the CRI and the frequency. If you need
technical data on lights, here are some links, though I haven't used them
in over a year, so expect many to be dead ends.

http://faq.thekrib.com/plant-lighting.html
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Hills/2637/spectra.html
http://www.aquabotanic.com/lightcompare.htm
http://www.malawicichlidhomepage.com/aquainfo/lighting1.html
http://www.mnsi.net/~waj/Lighting.html
http://www.trueaquariumplants.com/articles/aboutlight.asp
http://www.thekrib.com/Lights/faq.html
http://www.thekrib.com/Lights/lights-wozniak.html
http://www.calgaryaquariumsociety.com/Articles/Light_Part_1.html
http://www.calgaryaquariumsociety.com/Articles/Light_Part_2.html
http://www.animalnetwork.com/fish2/aqfm/1999/apr/features/2/default.asp
http://www.ahsupply.com/
http://www.science-projects.com/PhotosynPigments.htm
http://www.life.umd.edu/classroom/bsci124/lec7.html
http://www.lkraven.com/Aquarium/DIYLighting.htm
http://www.giesemann.de/GB_Leuchten.html
http://www.thekrib.com/Lights/reflectors.html

> 2. My next question is about how to setup my filter. I bought Nitra
Zorb,
> Ceramic rings, bio checm stars, activated charcoal, and sponges. Is
there
> anyting that I am missing. Is there a certain order to filling the
filter?

Sometimes it depends on the filter type. Generally speaking, your filter
should be loaded in such a manner that a) everything clogs at the same
time (maximum service interval), b) each subsequent stage catches
increasingly smaller particles and c) in order of life expectancy of the
particular media. How this translates into real applications is : if you
have more than one sponge density, start with your least dense and then
go to the most dense. Sponges make a good first filter because of the
tremendous surface area, and their washability. Carbon falls into the
life expectancy class, as it is only expected to be there about 8 weeks.
If your filter does not clog excessively in 8 weeks, then put carbon
after the sponge (if it does clog, then you might need to stage your
sponges better). Ceramic rings also falls into the life expectancy
class, but at the other extreme, you want them to last as long as
possible (so the anaerobic bacteria tunnels into all the cracks), so
these should be last in your filter chain, so they get the cleanest
water. Bio-balls typically go after the sponge and before the ceramic
rings (or sintered glass). I don't use Nitra Zorb much, but I treat it
like a short-life chemical filter like carbon. Peat (granules or fibre)
typically go where they don't get clogged and don't clog anything else,
so after the ceramic rings, with a sponge post-filter if you are using
the fibre (to catch loose bits). Marble chips, dolomite, argonite, tufa,
crushed coral etc, also go into the last position with a post-filter
sponge as required. These are minerals which 'melt'. Their location is
not overly critical, though some (tufa & fine coral) can leave a dusty
residue, which can clog a too fine post-filter. Note that coral is
typically available in 5 or 6 grades. The finest makes a very light
substrate, and the coarsest, has pieces which are up to 2" long. This is
important to know, as different sizes work better or worse with different
filters. I avoid the first 3 or 4 smallest sizes for filters, as they
pack too tight, creating too much restriction.

That was what I would do and why. Other people could stack it
differently, and just as successfully. It's something you tend to
experiment with and fine tune if you're inclined. In its simplist form,
all you really need is the sponge. Everything else is optional. I hope
I haven't confused the subject for you too much ;~).

NetMax

> Thanks in advance
>
>