Filter for low-water-level tank?

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I've got a ten-gallon sitting in a spot in my apartment where, if I consume
a just few more inches of space, I could put a larger tank. What I'd like
to do is get a tall tank (24 x 12 x 24) and fill it to about six inches from
the top. The airspace would a) provide a better view of the floating
plants b) allow for some emersed growth of the other plants, and c) provide
space to have a few slim branches protruding from the water onto which I
would mount miniature orchids. A glass top would keep the humidity in
during dry Chicago winters.

Now for my problem: filtration and water movement. The only filters I've
ever used have been AquaClear HOTs. I doubt any of them would be able to
cope with the low water level. I don't really need the biofiltration of a
HOT but I *would* like some mechanical filtration. My AquaClears are
silent, reliable and a breeze to maintain.

Would feeding part of the output from a small powerhead into the intake tube
of an AquaClear give the latter enough oomph, or is this a hairbrained idea?
I hate the thought of a filter taking up space *inside* the tank.

Thanks very much for any advice.


Cindy

- -
(remove the . in to reply)

[james mitchell]

I think the best option is a small canister filter if you can afford it.
Maybe a Fluval 104 or 204. I have two 404s and am very happy with them.
The 104 or 204 are between 50-75 USD bought online. You can position the
return hose below the water surface regardless of how high the water is in
the tank. The return flow of any HOT will splash which will be loud have
very strong currents in the tank. Also, planted tanks are better without
this surface agitation.

Good luck.
Jim

> wrote in message
...
>
> I've got a ten-gallon sitting in a spot in my apartment where, if I
consume
> a just few more inches of space, I could put a larger tank. What I'd like
> to do is get a tall tank (24 x 12 x 24) and fill it to about six inches
from
> the top. The airspace would a) provide a better view of the floating
> plants b) allow for some emersed growth of the other plants, and c)
provide
> space to have a few slim branches protruding from the water onto which I
> would mount miniature orchids. A glass top would keep the humidity in
> during dry Chicago winters.
>
> Now for my problem: filtration and water movement. The only filters I've
> ever used have been AquaClear HOTs. I doubt any of them would be able to
> cope with the low water level. I don't really need the biofiltration of a
> HOT but I *would* like some mechanical filtration. My AquaClears are
> silent, reliable and a breeze to maintain.
>
> Would feeding part of the output from a small powerhead into the intake
tube
> of an AquaClear give the latter enough oomph, or is this a hairbrained
idea?
> I hate the thought of a filter taking up space *inside* the tank.
>
> Thanks very much for any advice.
>
>
> Cindy
>
> - -
> (remove the . in to reply)
>

[Cindy Pegg]

Jim,

> I think the best option is a small canister filter if you can afford it.

I was afraid of that. <g> I have a spare AquaClear on hand and was hoping
to avoid another purchase. Also, I had the - admittedly vague - notion that
a cannister would be overkill for a smallish planted tank.

> The return flow of any HOT will splash which will be loud have
> very strong currents in the tank.

I was planning to make a small waterfall beneath the return flow to avoid
having the water just splash back into the tank.

> Also, planted tanks are better without this surface agitation.

With all the floating plants in residence - and the plants which have grown
up to the surface - believe me, that surface barely agitates even a few
inches from the current HOT. <g> There's DIY CO2 to spare. Everything in
the current tank will be transferred to the new taller tank, with room for a
few more plants. There's always room for a few more plants...

Thanks much for the input on the Fluvals. I'll do some research on their
reliability and maintenance requirements.

Cindy

- -
(remove the . in to reply)

[james mitchell]

> I was afraid of that. <g> I have a spare AquaClear on hand and was
hoping
> to avoid another purchase. Also, I had the - admittedly vague - notion
that
> a cannister would be overkill for a smallish planted tank.
>
> I was planning to make a small waterfall beneath the return flow to avoid
> having the water just splash back into the tank.
>
> With all the floating plants in residence - and the plants which have
grown
> up to the surface - believe me, that surface barely agitates even a few
> inches from the current HOT. <g> There's DIY CO2 to spare. Everything
in
> the current tank will be transferred to the new taller tank, with room for
a
> few more plants. There's always room for a few more plants...
>

Sounds like you can make the Aquaclear work. You may as well give it a try
before buying an expensive new filter. There's always many ways accomplish
the same end result. Do whatever works for you.

Jim

[Daniel Morrow]

(Cindy Pegg) wrote in message >...
> Jim,
>
> > I think the best option is a small canister filter if you can afford it.
>
> I was afraid of that. <g> I have a spare AquaClear on hand and was hoping
> to avoid another purchase. Also, I had the - admittedly vague - notion that
> a cannister would be overkill for a smallish planted tank.
>
> > The return flow of any HOT will splash which will be loud have
> > very strong currents in the tank.
>
> I was planning to make a small waterfall beneath the return flow to avoid
> having the water just splash back into the tank.
>
> > Also, planted tanks are better without this surface agitation.
>
> With all the floating plants in residence - and the plants which have grown
> up to the surface - believe me, that surface barely agitates even a few
> inches from the current HOT. <g> There's DIY CO2 to spare. Everything in
> the current tank will be transferred to the new taller tank, with room for a
> few more plants. There's always room for a few more plants...
>
> Thanks much for the input on the Fluvals. I'll do some research on their
> reliability and maintenance requirements.
>
> Cindy
>
> - -
> (remove the . in to reply)

Whisper makes great stuff. I would recommend buying a whisper internal
micro filter from that pet place (www.thatpetplace.com) for around
$12.99 plus s&h, it is very small and 70 gph and is great for small
tanks. Eheim apparently makes similar products with similar prices and
according to this catalog are definitely submersibles. I have never
heard of more than 1 or 2 cases of people being hurt by submersibles
(and none of them were electrocuted or killed, just shocked although
some in profound ways) but I would recommend either buying (can be
spendy at ~$30.00 each for either buying a premade unit or
constructing your own) an inline ground fault circuit interrupter or
making your own from parts at a hardware store. Local department
stores should now be carrying (I have seen them at my local department
store) the premade units. Apparently these devices can still let you
get shocked but it is nothing more than uncomfortable, you will never
get electrocuted or otherwise killed or even paralyzed, etc.. So
plugging in all of your submersibles into one of these devices takes
all of the worry away. I feel totally fine with electricity in my
tanks now after using these devices and even when I am doing serious
rearranging or work in my tanks with these electrical devices plugged
in. I use some care still but otherwise never worry about it any more.
I consider this good advice to you. If it is too expensive try an
extension cord plugged into a gfci which you probably already have
built into the kitchen or bathroom hall. Gfci's look like standard
electrical outlets with two buttons close to the outlets. A "test"
button and a "reset" button. Electricity is shut off after the gfci
detects a leak to ground or in other words detects electricity from
the tank water getting to ground. Later!

[Dinky]

"Daniel Morrow" > wrote in message
om...
> (Cindy Pegg) wrote in message
>...
> some in profound ways) but I would recommend either buying (can be
> spendy at ~$30.00 each for either buying a premade unit or
> constructing your own) an inline ground fault circuit interrupter or
> making your own from parts at a hardware store. Local department
>

I would reccommend a GFCI on any tank, I found a very stout GFCI designed
for construction workers. It has a short cord, and a standard gfi outlet in
a water\shock resistant box. It was only like 12 bucks. I plug my power
strips into these. They work, I was mucking about with a light, and dropped
the damn thing in the tank. Yellow box on the floor behind tank made a loud
'click', and everything shut off. House breaker didn't even have time to
trip.

[NetMax]

> wrote in message
...
>
> I've got a ten-gallon sitting in a spot in my apartment where, if I
consume
> a just few more inches of space, I could put a larger tank. What I'd
like
> to do is get a tall tank (24 x 12 x 24) and fill it to about six inches
from
> the top. The airspace would a) provide a better view of the floating
> plants b) allow for some emersed growth of the other plants, and c)
provide
> space to have a few slim branches protruding from the water onto which
I
> would mount miniature orchids. A glass top would keep the humidity in
> during dry Chicago winters.
>
> Now for my problem: filtration and water movement. The only filters
I've
> ever used have been AquaClear HOTs. I doubt any of them would be able
to
> cope with the low water level. I don't really need the biofiltration
of a
> HOT but I *would* like some mechanical filtration. My AquaClears are
> silent, reliable and a breeze to maintain.
>
> Would feeding part of the output from a small powerhead into the intake
tube
> of an AquaClear give the latter enough oomph, or is this a hairbrained
idea?
> I hate the thought of a filter taking up space *inside* the tank.
>
> Thanks very much for any advice.
>
>
> Cindy

I don't think that you can rig the AquaClear to work under those
conditions. The impeller needs to be below the water line, or the first
power interruption will cause it to lose siphon and probably damage the
motor from running dry.

A Fluval external canister might be overkill. Take a look at the 104,
but I think your best solution will be an internal canister filter. I
use these in paludariums (half filled tanks). There are a few sizes,
Fluval One, Two, Three and the Four. The Two or Three would probably be
perfect for your application. They are very flexible in regards to
placement. I hide mine in a circle of rocks, or under some rocks. They
need regular maintenance in a planted tank, as plant matter does clog up
the intake vents rapidly.

Another option is a small UGF, and a really tiny powerhead.

NetMax

[RedForeman ©®]

try an internal filter, or as they're sometimes called, a pond pump with a
filter, they're just a powerhead with a sponge, or an actual canister filter
that is self contained....

What you are talking about is very common with red eared slider turtles, and
such, the herp group has many members with 120g tanks only filled about half
way, and they use these pumps you are searching for..

--
RedForeman ©®




> wrote in message
...
>
> I've got a ten-gallon sitting in a spot in my apartment where, if I
consume
> a just few more inches of space, I could put a larger tank. What I'd like
> to do is get a tall tank (24 x 12 x 24) and fill it to about six inches
from
> the top. The airspace would a) provide a better view of the floating
> plants b) allow for some emersed growth of the other plants, and c)
provide
> space to have a few slim branches protruding from the water onto which I
> would mount miniature orchids. A glass top would keep the humidity in
> during dry Chicago winters.
>
> Now for my problem: filtration and water movement. The only filters I've
> ever used have been AquaClear HOTs. I doubt any of them would be able to
> cope with the low water level. I don't really need the biofiltration of a
> HOT but I *would* like some mechanical filtration. My AquaClears are
> silent, reliable and a breeze to maintain.
>
> Would feeding part of the output from a small powerhead into the intake
tube
> of an AquaClear give the latter enough oomph, or is this a hairbrained
idea?
> I hate the thought of a filter taking up space *inside* the tank.
>
> Thanks very much for any advice.
>
>
> Cindy
>
> - -
> (remove the . in to reply)

[Daniel Morrow]

"Dinky" > wrote in message .net>...
> "Daniel Morrow" > wrote in message
> om...
> > (Cindy Pegg) wrote in message
> >...
> > some in profound ways) but I would recommend either buying (can be
> > spendy at ~$30.00 each for either buying a premade unit or
> > constructing your own) an inline ground fault circuit interrupter or
> > making your own from parts at a hardware store. Local department
> >
>
> I would reccommend a GFCI on any tank, I found a very stout GFCI designed
> for construction workers. It has a short cord, and a standard gfi outlet in
> a water\shock resistant box. It was only like 12 bucks. I plug my power
> strips into these. They work, I was mucking about with a light, and dropped
> the damn thing in the tank. Yellow box on the floor behind tank made a loud
> 'click', and everything shut off. House breaker didn't even have time to
> trip.

That's cool. I like hearing about these kinds of things working in
action. Were you touching any of the tank's water when it shut the
power off? If so did you feel anything? Later, cool!