New (to me) tank

[Karen Garza]

I'm getting a used 75 gallon tank on Friday. It will be a community tank
for my 7 platies, 7 neons, 5 pepper cories, 2 gold algae eaters, 2
guppies, 2 peacock eels, a blue gourami, a tetra of some sort, and a
kuhli loach. I will be adding plants too. I also have 24 assorted guppy
and platy fry, but they will stay in a separate 20 gallon tank for awhile.
What is the best filter, heater, etc. to use. I like low maintenance
equipment, but appearance is important as well. Is it really necessary
to have a CO2 system? My tap water pH is about 7.2-7.4 after is sits for
about 24 hours, and all of my fish have adapted to it without any
problems. I'd like to set up a water changing system that I can hook up
to my kitchen faucet to drain and add water as needed. Any ideas how I
can do this? Maybe one of those waterbed type systems? I do NOT want to
do the bucket method for water changes.

Karen

[NetMax]

"Karen Garza" > wrote in message
link.net...
> I'm getting a used 75 gallon tank on Friday. It will be a community
tank
> for my 7 platies, 7 neons, 5 pepper cories, 2 gold algae eaters, 2
> guppies, 2 peacock eels, a blue gourami, a tetra of some sort, and a
> kuhli loach.

Livebearers are alkaline hard water fish, most tetras are acidic soft
water fish. This is good to know, and if you keep neutral conditions you
should be fine. Research your eels final size. Golden algae eaters
(CAEs) do not have a good reputation. Definitely get more Kuhlis as they
are shoaling fish. Isolation = solitary confinement.

I will be adding plants too. I also have 24 assorted guppy
> and platy fry, but they will stay in a separate 20 gallon tank for
awhile.
> What is the best filter, heater, etc. to use. I like low maintenance
> equipment, but appearance is important as well.

Canister filters are generally considered to have the lowest maintenance
(longest servicing interval) and you only see the hoses running into the
tank. There are several manufacturers, Eheim, Fluval, Filsar etc. Eheim
has the most choices, features and is typically the most expensive.
Fluval has 4 basic models according to tank size. There are a few
others, and AFAIK, there are no bad canister filters to avoid, so the
decision often comes to economics and personal preference.

Is it really necessary
> to have a CO2 system?

Is it neccesary to have a turbocharger on your car? Some people think
so. If you have very high expectations on building a lush underwater
garden, and are not willing to be patient, then CO2 is for you. Results
of CO2 injection can be quite dramatic, but it is not at all essential.
Similar results can be achieved without it, but not in the same amount of
time.

My tap water pH is about 7.2-7.4 after is sits for
> about 24 hours, and all of my fish have adapted to it without any
> problems. I'd like to set up a water changing system that I can hook up
> to my kitchen faucet to drain and add water as needed. Any ideas how I
> can do this? Maybe one of those waterbed type systems? I do NOT want to
> do the bucket method for water changes.

The commercialized version is called a Python. It attaches to your
faucet and sucks water (so you can do your gravel vacuuming), and then
you reverse the flow to refill the tank. Above 40g, pails become less
practical, so a Python (or equivilant) is worthwhile. Pythons come in
25' and 50' kits with 25' extensions available. They work best when they
are located at or below the tank's waterline. Some people have made
their own, possibly including components from the water bed store. The
only critical part is the fitting which attached to the faucet which has
the vortex chamber to create the sucking action.

NetMax

> Karen
>

[Rick]

"Karen Garza" > wrote in message
link.net...
> I'm getting a used 75 gallon tank on Friday. It will be a community tank
> for my 7 platies, 7 neons, 5 pepper cories, 2 gold algae eaters, 2
> guppies, 2 peacock eels, a blue gourami, a tetra of some sort, and a
> kuhli loach. I will be adding plants too. I also have 24 assorted guppy
> and platy fry, but they will stay in a separate 20 gallon tank for awhile.
> What is the best filter, heater, etc. to use. I like low maintenance
> equipment, but appearance is important as well. Is it really necessary
> to have a CO2 system? My tap water pH is about 7.2-7.4 after is sits for
> about 24 hours, and all of my fish have adapted to it without any
> problems. I'd like to set up a water changing system that I can hook up
> to my kitchen faucet to drain and add water as needed. Any ideas how I
> can do this? Maybe one of those waterbed type systems? I do NOT want to
> do the bucket method for water changes.
>
> Karen
>

Karen you do not need CO2 to grown plants. You do not mention how much
lighting you have but my 77g tank initially had a single 40 watt bulb and I
grew Anubia, Java Moss, Java Ferns and several different crypts with no
trouble at all. You have a variety of options for a filter and simply have
to decide on what would be best for you. An Aqua Clear 500 model running
double sponges provides lots of filtration and is easy to maintain . Many
like the bio wheel type filters or canister filters where maintenance is
more involved but you do it less often. Depending on the room temperature of
this tank I would get a 250 to 300 watt heater. Many recommend using two
heaters , say 2 x 150 watt for more even heating throughout the tank and of
course there is a backup in the event one heater fails. Personal choice. You
can buy a Python water change kit and I think you will find this invaluable,

Rick

[Karen Garza]

Rick wrote:


> Karen you do not need CO2 to grown plants. You do not mention how much
> lighting you have but my 77g tank initially had a single 40 watt bulb and I
> grew Anubia, Java Moss, Java Ferns and several different crypts with no
> trouble at all. You have a variety of options for a filter and simply have
> to decide on what would be best for you. An Aqua Clear 500 model running
> double sponges provides lots of filtration and is easy to maintain . Many
> like the bio wheel type filters or canister filters where maintenance is
> more involved but you do it less often. Depending on the room temperature of
> this tank I would get a 250 to 300 watt heater. Many recommend using two
> heaters , say 2 x 150 watt for more even heating throughout the tank and of
> course there is a backup in the event one heater fails. Personal choice. You
> can buy a Python water change kit and I think you will find this invaluable,
>
> Rick

Thanks Rick.
Lighting - I don't know what the lighting will be. I plan to upgrade if
needed.
filter - I am familiar with the bio wheels (I have two right now) but
I'll have to check out the Aqua Clear 500.

heating - I curently have three heaters. A 150 watt, a 200 watt, and I
don't know what the third one is because it was given to me and it
doesn't say. Maybe I will use two of them so I won't have to buy new.

water changing - Okay a python. That would be easir that using buckets.

Thanks for your help :-)

Karen

[Karen Garza]

NetMax wrote:

> Livebearers are alkaline hard water fish, most tetras are acidic soft
> water fish. This is good to know, and if you keep neutral conditions you
> should be fine. Research your eels final size. Golden algae eaters
> (CAEs) do not have a good reputation. Definitely get more Kuhlis as they
> are shoaling fish. Isolation = solitary confinement.

Yeah, my water isn't ideal for my fish. But it's close and it works, so
other than maybe adding some driftwood, I'm not gonna try to change the PH.
I have researched the eels and read that they will get up to about 11
inches in length. They prefer PH to be about 7.6-7.8. I've only had them
for about 6 weeks now, but they seem to be fine in my water.
I've been waiting for several weeks now for the LFS to get more kuhlis.
They keep saying to check back next week. They didn't ship very well
during the cold months. I didn't buy them because they didn't look very
healthy and the guy at the LFS said that most of them ended up dieing.
Maybe they will ship better now that the weather is starting to warm up.

> Canister filters are generally considered to have the lowest maintenance
> (longest servicing interval) and you only see the hoses running into the
> tank. There are several manufacturers, Eheim, Fluval, Filsar etc. Eheim
> has the most choices, features and is typically the most expensive.
> Fluval has 4 basic models according to tank size. There are a few
> others, and AFAIK, there are no bad canister filters to avoid, so the
> decision often comes to economics and personal preference.

Wow, lots of filters to check into. I can see I will need to do some
research on them.

If you have very high expectations on building a lush underwater
> garden, and are not willing to be patient, then CO2 is for you. Results
> of CO2 injection can be quite dramatic, but it is not at all essential.
> Similar results can be achieved without it, but not in the same amount of
> time.

I think I'll just go with the patience. I do plan to have a lot of
plants, but I can wait. I enjoy watching things grow.

> The commercialized version is called a Python. It attaches to your
> faucet and sucks water (so you can do your gravel vacuuming), and then
> you reverse the flow to refill the tank.

Yes, this is what I want. A python!

Thanks for all the info :-)
Karen

> NetMax

[Karen Garza]

Oops! I know this is wrong. I should have said that they prefer PH to be
about 7
Sorry, I guess I have too many fish to keep it all straight without
looking it up.

Karen

Karen Garza wrote:

> I have researched the eels and read that they prefer PH to be about 7.6-7.8.

[NetMax]

"Karen Garza" > wrote in message
hlink.net...
>
>
> NetMax wrote:
>
> > Livebearers are alkaline hard water fish, most tetras are acidic soft
> > water fish. This is good to know, and if you keep neutral conditions
you
> > should be fine. Research your eels final size. Golden algae eaters
> > (CAEs) do not have a good reputation. Definitely get more Kuhlis as
they
> > are shoaling fish. Isolation = solitary confinement.
>
> Yeah, my water isn't ideal for my fish. But it's close and it works, so
> other than maybe adding some driftwood, I'm not gonna try to change the
PH.

Imho, yours is a very sensible approach.

> I have researched the eels and read that they will get up to about 11
> inches in length. They prefer PH to be about 7.6-7.8.

7.0 as per your correction.

I've only had them
> for about 6 weeks now, but they seem to be fine in my water.
> I've been waiting for several weeks now for the LFS to get more kuhlis.
> They keep saying to check back next week. They didn't ship very well
> during the cold months. I didn't buy them because they didn't look very
> healthy and the guy at the LFS said that most of them ended up dieing.
> Maybe they will ship better now that the weather is starting to warm
up.

Kuhlis are awful fish for an LFS. Although they are really cheap
(pennies), they are very fragile (I've lost entire shipments within 2-3
days). To compensate, I order XXL but they are still very small :~(.
They are also a PITA to catch, and for a business, time is money.
Occasionally I manage a good batch and fatten them up. When that
happens, I occasionally hear a customer remarking "Oh you have Kuhli's!!
I haven't seen them anywhere in ages". That's what makes it worthwhile
:o).

> > Canister filters are generally considered to have the lowest
maintenance
> > (longest servicing interval) and you only see the hoses running into
the
> > tank. There are several manufacturers, Eheim, Fluval, Filsar etc.
Eheim
> > has the most choices, features and is typically the most expensive.
> > Fluval has 4 basic models according to tank size. There are a few
> > others, and AFAIK, there are no bad canister filters to avoid, so the
> > decision often comes to economics and personal preference.
>
> Wow, lots of filters to check into. I can see I will need to do some
> research on them.

Well basically there is filtration media (make sure it's included), flow
rates (look at recommended sizes for your tank), shut-off valves (if not
integrated, make sure they are included). Then there are the storage
capacities for water treatment (bio-max, sintered glass, carbon,
dolomite, peat, coral, etc), which will vary by your application. Then
you get into features (which you may or may never use), such as a primer
(Eheim has this on some filters and it works), flow control (Fluval has
this, and you might be able to do some flow control on any models), built
in heater, wet/dry function, spraybar outlet (standard on Eheim), open
outlet (standard on Fluval, spraybar is sold serperately), hose types
(clear accumulates algae quicker, opaque has little indication of
internal condition, corregated doesn't bind as easily but has more flow
resistance) - note that this is starting to get a bit technical, as the
hoses used shouldn't really be a determining factor ;~).

> If you have very high expectations on building a lush underwater
> > garden, and are not willing to be patient, then CO2 is for you.
Results
> > of CO2 injection can be quite dramatic, but it is not at all
essential.
> > Similar results can be achieved without it, but not in the same
amount of
> > time.
>
> I think I'll just go with the patience. I do plan to have a lot of
> plants, but I can wait. I enjoy watching things grow.

I have a few tanks on CO2. It's a bit like cheating ;~). I also enjoy
watching the progress of non-CO2 tanks. Light levels will probably be
your highest governing factor. Try to have two 40W bulbs over that tank
for nice results.

NetMax

> > The commercialized version is called a Python. It attaches to your
> > faucet and sucks water (so you can do your gravel vacuuming), and
then
> > you reverse the flow to refill the tank.
>
> Yes, this is what I want. A python!
>
> Thanks for all the info :-)
> Karen
>
> > NetMax
>

[Dick]

On Wed, 10 Mar 2004 16:29:47 GMT, Karen Garza >
wrote:

>
>
>NetMax wrote:
>
>> Livebearers are alkaline hard water fish, most tetras are acidic soft
>> water fish. This is good to know, and if you keep neutral conditions you
>> should be fine. Research your eels final size. Golden algae eaters
>> (CAEs) do not have a good reputation. Definitely get more Kuhlis as they
>> are shoaling fish. Isolation = solitary confinement.
>
>Yeah, my water isn't ideal for my fish. But it's close and it works, so
>other than maybe adding some driftwood, I'm not gonna try to change the PH.
>I have researched the eels and read that they will get up to about 11
>inches in length. They prefer PH to be about 7.6-7.8. I've only had them
>for about 6 weeks now, but they seem to be fine in my water.
>I've been waiting for several weeks now for the LFS to get more kuhlis.
>They keep saying to check back next week. They didn't ship very well
>during the cold months. I didn't buy them because they didn't look very
>healthy and the guy at the LFS said that most of them ended up dieing.
>Maybe they will ship better now that the weather is starting to warm up.
>
>> Canister filters are generally considered to have the lowest maintenance
>> (longest servicing interval) and you only see the hoses running into the
>> tank. There are several manufacturers, Eheim, Fluval, Filsar etc. Eheim
>> has the most choices, features and is typically the most expensive.
>> Fluval has 4 basic models according to tank size. There are a few
>> others, and AFAIK, there are no bad canister filters to avoid, so the
>> decision often comes to economics and personal preference.
>
>Wow, lots of filters to check into. I can see I will need to do some
>research on them.
>
>If you have very high expectations on building a lush underwater
>> garden, and are not willing to be patient, then CO2 is for you. Results
>> of CO2 injection can be quite dramatic, but it is not at all essential.
>> Similar results can be achieved without it, but not in the same amount of
>> time.
>
>I think I'll just go with the patience. I do plan to have a lot of
>plants, but I can wait. I enjoy watching things grow.

Consider how much light you have (watts per gallon) when choosing
plants. I went through a lot of plants early on then discovered my
tanks were "low light" that is less than 2 watts per gallon. Since
then I have bought low light plants and have some very lush bottoms.
Low lights don't grow so tall, most less than 8 inches. There is some
variety, but nothing to compare to the high light plants, at least
this is my limited experience.

>
>> The commercialized version is called a Python. It attaches to your
>> faucet and sucks water (so you can do your gravel vacuuming), and then
>> you reverse the flow to refill the tank.
>
>Yes, this is what I want. A python!

Another brand is "Gravel Vac".

>
>Thanks for all the info :-)
>Karen
>
>> NetMax

[NetMax]

"Dick" > wrote in message
...
> On Wed, 10 Mar 2004 16:29:47 GMT, Karen Garza >
> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >NetMax wrote:
<snip>
> >
> >> The commercialized version is called a Python. It attaches to your
> >> faucet and sucks water (so you can do your gravel vacuuming), and
then
> >> you reverse the flow to refill the tank.
> >
> >Yes, this is what I want. A python!
>
> Another brand is "Gravel Vac".

There is another brand? Who makes it? Is it any good?. I go through a
Python every couple of months. There is too much soft plastic used in
their design. Might be fine for home use, but not commercial. What I
really need is the vortex portion of the Python made in brass. I've
heard waterbed stores carry something similar to a Python, but I haven't
had a chance to check it out.

NetMax

> >
> >Thanks for all the info :-)
> >Karen
> >
> >> NetMax
>

[Craig Williams]

If its getting too exspensive just make your own. Many people have done so.
Python faucet adapters are just water bed units NO difference in internal
size shape or design. get the rest of the parts from Homedepot or whatever.
AS far as making one out of brass it is possible there is nothing fancy or
mysterious about how the vortex portion works. Its just the water flowing
past the other opening causing a vacuum. You could prob. make something with
a little work.

"NetMax" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Dick" > wrote in message
> ...
> > On Wed, 10 Mar 2004 16:29:47 GMT, Karen Garza >
> > wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >NetMax wrote:
> <snip>
> > >
> > >> The commercialized version is called a Python. It attaches to your
> > >> faucet and sucks water (so you can do your gravel vacuuming), and
> then
> > >> you reverse the flow to refill the tank.
> > >
> > >Yes, this is what I want. A python!
> >
> > Another brand is "Gravel Vac".
>
> There is another brand? Who makes it? Is it any good?. I go through a
> Python every couple of months. There is too much soft plastic used in
> their design. Might be fine for home use, but not commercial. What I
> really need is the vortex portion of the Python made in brass. I've
> heard waterbed stores carry something similar to a Python, but I haven't
> had a chance to check it out.
>
> NetMax
>
> > >
> > >Thanks for all the info :-)
> > >Karen
> > >
> > >> NetMax
> >
>
>

[Karen Garza]

NetMax wrote:

> Imho, yours is a very sensible approach.
Thanks :-)

> Kuhlis are awful fish for an LFS. Although they are really cheap
> (pennies), they are very fragile
Yep. I don't blame the LFS. This particular store has good quality fish.
No dead fish in the tanks and no selling of sick fish. I do plan to keep
looking though. I'd really like more kuhlies. I don't like seeing mine
acting so lonely.

> Well basically there is filtration media (make sure it's included), flow
> rates (look at recommended sizes for your tank), shut-off valves (if not
> integrated, make sure they are included). Then there are the storage
> capacities for water treatment (bio-max, sintered glass, carbon,
> dolomite, peat, coral, etc), which will vary by your application. Then
> you get into features (which you may or may never use), such as a primer
> (Eheim has this on some filters and it works), flow control (Fluval has
> this, and you might be able to do some flow control on any models), built
> in heater, wet/dry function, spraybar outlet (standard on Eheim), open
> outlet (standard on Fluval, spraybar is sold serperately), hose types
> (clear accumulates algae quicker, opaque has little indication of
> internal condition, corregated doesn't bind as easily but has more flow
> resistance) - note that this is starting to get a bit technical, as the
> hoses used shouldn't really be a determining factor ;~).
Thanks again for all the info. What do you consider to be the most
effective filter for a 75 gallon tank? I like biowheels, but I was
hoping to get away from having a filter hanging off the back of the
tank. Do I really need a biowheel on such a large tank? Does the
biowheel increase the tanks stocking capacity. I don't plan to put a lot
of fish in it, I'm just curious.

> Try to have two 40W bulbs over that tank for nice results.
Okay. I will check out the lighting situation when I get the tank home
this evening.

> NetMax

Karen

[Karen Garza]

Dick wrote:

> Consider how much light you have (watts per gallon) when choosing
> plants. I have bought low light plants and have some very lush bottoms.
> Low lights don't grow so tall, most less than 8 inches.
Yep. I'll check out the lighting on the tank this evening. I would like
to have med. lighting so I can have some med. tall plants. I don't
really want any super tall plants. Maybe I should try for 2 wpg?

> Another brand is "Gravel Vac".
Okay, I'll look for either Python or Gravel Vac

Karen

[NetMax]

"Karen Garza" > wrote in message
hlink.net...
> NetMax wrote:
> Thanks again for all the info. What do you consider to be the most
> effective filter for a 75 gallon tank? I like biowheels, but I was
> hoping to get away from having a filter hanging off the back of the
> tank. Do I really need a biowheel on such a large tank? Does the
> biowheel increase the tanks stocking capacity. I don't plan to put a
lot
> of fish in it, I'm just curious.

Asking which is the best filter is akin to asking what's the best car ;~)
There will be such a variety of responses. In commercial applications,
air driven sponge filters tend to dominate independant tanks, while
wet/dry sump filters and fluidized beds are seen more on centralized
systems. Home hobbyists can borrow from commercial designs. In a way,
the bio-wheel is functionally a hybrid between a big slow sponge filter
(in DOC removal) and a wet/dry filter (with high concentrations of
aerobic nitrifying bacteria). Canister filters provide similar
functionality using huge amounts of surface area in their sponges, low
flow rates (low is good), and the use of sintered glass products for
anerobic bacteria.

A very slick home system would marry the convenience of the canister with
the additional features of a bio-wheel. Marineland understands this and
sells a dual biowheel which attaches to the output of almost any canister
filter (now if they could only bring the price down a bit). In terms of
slick operating efficiency for home use, that would get my vote. Is it
overkill, almost probably yes. Any combination of systems which
overfiltered your tank would probably be sufficient, especially since it
will be planted and lightly stocked. Pick up one large canister or two
smaller canister filters and don't worry.

NetMax

> > Try to have two 40W bulbs over that tank for nice results.
> Okay. I will check out the lighting situation when I get the tank home
> this evening.
>
> > NetMax
>
> Karen
>

[Karen Garza]

NetMax wrote:

> Asking which is the best filter is akin to asking what's the best car ;~)
> There will be such a variety of responses. In commercial applications,
> air driven sponge filters tend to dominate independant tanks, while
> wet/dry sump filters and fluidized beds are seen more on centralized
> systems. Home hobbyists can borrow from commercial designs. In a way,
> the bio-wheel is functionally a hybrid between a big slow sponge filter
> (in DOC removal) and a wet/dry filter (with high concentrations of
> aerobic nitrifying bacteria). Canister filters provide similar
> functionality using huge amounts of surface area in their sponges, low
> flow rates (low is good), and the use of sintered glass products for
> anerobic bacteria.
>
> A very slick home system would marry the convenience of the canister with
> the additional features of a bio-wheel. Marineland understands this and
> sells a dual biowheel which attaches to the output of almost any canister
> filter (now if they could only bring the price down a bit). In terms of
> slick operating efficiency for home use, that would get my vote. Is it
> overkill, almost probably yes. Any combination of systems which
> overfiltered your tank would probably be sufficient, especially since it
> will be planted and lightly stocked. Pick up one large canister or two
> smaller canister filters and don't worry.
>
> NetMax

After all my questions about filters, the guy that I bought the 75
gallon tank from threw in a UGF and 2 penguin 330 biowheel filters. The
biowheels are missing. He said that he threw them away because he
thought they were too noisy. I set the tank up and added new filter
cartridges. The penguin filters are also missing the little black
plastic pieces that go on the ends of the biowheels and hold the
biowheels in place within the filter housing. I will see if I can order
them. I also need to find out how many gallons per hour they can filter.
I was hoping to get away from the hang on type filters, but these aren't
costing me anything, so I'll use them. I don't think I'll use the UGF. I
just don't see them as being very effective.
As for lighting, it has one 40 watt something?-glo fluorescent bulb.
It's really bright! My husband has agreed to make a wood canopy for the
tank that will have 4 bulbs. I'll have to hold off buying any more
plants until I get the new canopy. I already have enough plants to make
the tank look okay for now.
I couldn't find Bio Spira and was told that it's been out of stock for a
month or two. So I bought some Cycle. It's the same idea as Bio Spira.
It says on the label, "rapidly matures new aquariums" I'll be testing
the water regularly to see how it works. I also added some NovAqua to
remove the chlorine.
I looked at a Python and it was way too expensive for me. My husband
somehow hooked up a hose to the bath and that's how we filled up the tank.
I will make a run to the LFS tomorrow to get a nice substrate for the
eels to dig in. Maybe I'll get lucky and find some ottos too.

Karen

[NetMax]

"Karen Garza" > wrote in message
hlink.net...
> NetMax wrote:
>
<snip>
>
> After all my questions about filters, the guy that I bought the 75
> gallon tank from threw in a UGF and 2 penguin 330 biowheel filters. The
> biowheels are missing. He said that he threw them away because he
> thought they were too noisy. I set the tank up and added new filter
> cartridges. The penguin filters are also missing the little black
> plastic pieces that go on the ends of the biowheels and hold the
> biowheels in place within the filter housing. I will see if I can order
> them.

The biowheels are available, but a bit pricey around these parts.
Compare their cost purchased on-line. Their size & weight would not add
too much to the shipping cost (not like an aquarium or a complete
filter). Local aquarium society might have someone with some old filters
and the bio-wheels are almost ageless.

I also need to find out how many gallons per hour they can filter.
> I was hoping to get away from the hang on type filters, but these
aren't
> costing me anything, so I'll use them. I don't think I'll use the UGF.
I
> just don't see them as being very effective.

Very good biological filters but as with anything, you need to
familiarize yourself with their limitations and see how it fits your
application. Unless you are really strapped for cash, I might leave them
out as they are a nuisance to remove later (if you change your mind), and
it sounded like you were leaning towards canister filters.

> As for lighting, it has one 40 watt something?-glo fluorescent bulb.
> It's really bright! My husband has agreed to make a wood canopy for the
> tank that will have 4 bulbs. I'll have to hold off buying any more
> plants until I get the new canopy. I already have enough plants to make
> the tank look okay for now.

Even 2 bulbs (80w over 75g) is respectable if your substrate is light
coloured. I'd suggest using 3 ballasts. One ballast to run your main 2
bulbs. The 2nd ballast drives the 3rd bulb (more light!). The 3rd
ballast drives the 4th bulb, which can be used as a nightlight, or a
regular full spectrum light. Having this arrangement also allows you to
use 2 timers, so a single bulb wakes them up, and at the end of the day,
puts them to bed. Not having eyelids is a real drawback to fish when
160W of lights come on first thing in the morning. Having multiple
control also lets to scale your lighting upwards, as starting a new tank
with a full 160W would put you in a algae-control situation.

> I couldn't find Bio Spira and was told that it's been out of stock for
a
> month or two. So I bought some Cycle. It's the same idea as Bio Spira.
> It says on the label, "rapidly matures new aquariums" I'll be testing
> the water regularly to see how it works. I also added some NovAqua to
> remove the chlorine.

While both Cycle & Bio Spira are bacteria starters, Cycle will only
reduce the amplitude and duration of your normal NH3/4 and NO2 spikes.
Bio Spira is marketed more as an instant bacteria, with many posters
saying that it has worked for them. Any used filter media which you can
put into the Penguins will help matters along.

> I looked at a Python and it was way too expensive for me. My husband
> somehow hooked up a hose to the bath and that's how we filled up the
tank.
> I will make a run to the LFS tomorrow to get a nice substrate for the
> eels to dig in. Maybe I'll get lucky and find some ottos too.

They are pricey. Here is a DIY link:
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_python.php

Are you sure the eels will stay small enough to not have the Otos for a
midnight snack? In any case, I'd only get Otos when I had algae, or you
will be feeding them all their greens.

NetMax

> Karen
>

[TYNK 7]

(snipped)

>Subject: Re: New (to me) tank
>From: "NetMax"
>Date: 3/9/2004 11:03 AM Central Standard Time
>Message-id: >

>Canister filters are generally considered to have the lowest maintenance
>(longest servicing interval) and you only see the hoses running into the
>tank. There are several manufacturers, Eheim, Fluval, Filsar etc. Eheim

>has the most choices, features and is typically the most expensive.
>Fluval has 4 basic models according to tank size. There are a few
>others, and AFAIK, there are no bad canister filters to avoid, so the
>decision often comes to economics and personal preference.

I love my Magnum 350 in my 75g tank.
I have power filters on other tanks, but for this large of a tank, go canister.
If you want the added benefits of a Bio Wheel...the magnum now has a version
with a Bio Wheel too. = )

[NetMax]

"Craig Williams" > wrote in message
.. .
> If its getting too exspensive just make your own. Many people have done
so.
> Python faucet adapters are just water bed units NO difference in
internal
> size shape or design. get the rest of the parts from Homedepot or
whatever.
> AS far as making one out of brass it is possible there is nothing fancy
or
> mysterious about how the vortex portion works. Its just the water
flowing
> past the other opening causing a vacuum. You could prob. make something
with
> a little work.
<snip>

I know how to make one:
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_python.php . The problem is
that they are too fragile for daily use in an LFS. I'm somewhat
sceptical that the main body could be machined out of brass very easily.
I've destroyed enough things on a lathe to know what I can't do. Perhaps
2 formed sections attached (soldered) at the vortex might work. There
must be a better way *thinking*.

NetMax