Help with leak?

[xkatx]

I have a custom tank built into an old cabinet TV... Not sure how many
gallons it is, but it's a fair size, and it has a leak (I was told) but
where the leak is exactly is unknown... I don't really care to fill it up
with the hopes of maybe finding where the leak could be, as the lady that I
got it from said she could NOT determine where the leak was coming from.
Said it was a slow leak...
Any ideas or tips on how to properly repair this leak if you don't know
where it is? I don't want to take it all apart and reseal all the edges, as
I don't know if I'd trust that very much, but I'm kind of out of ideas on
where to go...
It's a very, very nice tank, so should I just reinforce ALL edges with
silicone or something? Inside only? Outisde? Both?
I'd like to have this tank up and running as soon as possible... It's
currently sitting in the middle of the kitchen, which is not where I'd like
to have it for long...
Any ideas or suggestions are definitely appreciated!

[NetMax]

"xkatx" > wrote in message
news:g_c7g.2685$Fl1.313@edtnps89...
>I have a custom tank built into an old cabinet TV... Not sure how many
>gallons it is, but it's a fair size, and it has a leak (I was told) but
>where the leak is exactly is unknown... I don't really care to fill it
>up with the hopes of maybe finding where the leak could be, as the lady
>that I got it from said she could NOT determine where the leak was
>coming from. Said it was a slow leak...
> Any ideas or tips on how to properly repair this leak if you don't know
> where it is? I don't want to take it all apart and reseal all the
> edges, as I don't know if I'd trust that very much, but I'm kind of out
> of ideas on where to go...
> It's a very, very nice tank, so should I just reinforce ALL edges with
> silicone or something? Inside only? Outisde? Both?
> I'd like to have this tank up and running as soon as possible... It's
> currently sitting in the middle of the kitchen, which is not where I'd
> like to have it for long...
> Any ideas or suggestions are definitely appreciated!


Size & construction is important. Under 50g might not be worth your
while, nor would a custom tank made with overly-thin glass. There is a
thin sheet of silicone between the glass panes, and there is a bead of
silicone inside the tank. Both provide structural strength, but the
silicone sheet is more structural and the silicone bead is more insurance
and to protect the sheet.

If you have a slow leak and it's not due to a glass crack or water
wicking over the top (under the plastic trim), then it has found a path
through both silicone applications. This typically leaves some evidence
behind, such as a white (calcium, salt etc), brown or green (algaes)
residue in a thin line going through the silicone. What is more
important is to assess the general condition of the silicone and the
installation. If the tank base is crooked (opposite corners lower or
higher), then your slow leak may not be age, but an early warning sign of
failure. If there are many air bubbles in the silicone sheet, this is
also a sign of fatigue, and possibly imminent failure.

I think you need to inspect the glass and silicone's condition (from the
outside and the inside). Try to locate the leak's path as this directs
your efforts. Also check that the base is flat (slide something under
the corners to assess the gap). If the gap is small (you can always slip
a sheet of styrofoam under to make minor corrections), the glass is
intact, and the sheet silicone is sound, then it's a good candidate for
repair. If the inside bead is coming off, then you can pull it away and
re-silicone. If the inside bead is solid, siliconing a larger bead on
top is not generally a great idea, but has been known to work. Remember
that new silicone will not bond to old silicon (and not any silicone is
aquarium safe, avoid anything with anti mildew/mold properties). If the
sheet silicone between panes is in bad condition, then the tank should be
replaced or reassembled (ymmv).

Typically, there is a section of bead which has been pleco-chewed or
embrittled. Removing it and several inches to either side (usually the
entire straight length is removed) gives a surface suitable for
re-siliconing (after some surface prep). At the ends of the new bead
where it contacts the old bead, the adhesion will be poor, but if there
is enough bead material to the former leak, it usually stays leak-proof.
hth
--
www.NetMax.tk

[Mister Gardener]

On Sun, 7 May 2006 10:34:22 -0400, "NetMax"
> wrote:

>"xkatx" > wrote in message
>news:g_c7g.2685$Fl1.313@edtnps89...
>>I have a custom tank built into an old cabinet TV... Not sure how many
>>gallons it is, but it's a fair size, and it has a leak (I was told) but
>>where the leak is exactly is unknown... I don't really care to fill it
>>up with the hopes of maybe finding where the leak could be, as the lady
>>that I got it from said she could NOT determine where the leak was
>>coming from. Said it was a slow leak...
>> Any ideas or tips on how to properly repair this leak if you don't know
>> where it is? I don't want to take it all apart and reseal all the
>> edges, as I don't know if I'd trust that very much, but I'm kind of out
>> of ideas on where to go...
>> It's a very, very nice tank, so should I just reinforce ALL edges with
>> silicone or something? Inside only? Outisde? Both?
>> I'd like to have this tank up and running as soon as possible... It's
>> currently sitting in the middle of the kitchen, which is not where I'd
>> like to have it for long...
>> Any ideas or suggestions are definitely appreciated!
>
>
>Size & construction is important. Under 50g might not be worth your
>while, nor would a custom tank made with overly-thin glass. There is a
>thin sheet of silicone between the glass panes, and there is a bead of
>silicone inside the tank. Both provide structural strength, but the
>silicone sheet is more structural and the silicone bead is more insurance
>and to protect the sheet.
>
>If you have a slow leak and it's not due to a glass crack or water
>wicking over the top (under the plastic trim), then it has found a path
>through both silicone applications. This typically leaves some evidence
>behind, such as a white (calcium, salt etc), brown or green (algaes)
>residue in a thin line going through the silicone. What is more
>important is to assess the general condition of the silicone and the
>installation. If the tank base is crooked (opposite corners lower or
>higher), then your slow leak may not be age, but an early warning sign of
>failure. If there are many air bubbles in the silicone sheet, this is
>also a sign of fatigue, and possibly imminent failure.
>
>I think you need to inspect the glass and silicone's condition (from the
>outside and the inside). Try to locate the leak's path as this directs
>your efforts. Also check that the base is flat (slide something under
>the corners to assess the gap). If the gap is small (you can always slip
>a sheet of styrofoam under to make minor corrections), the glass is
>intact, and the sheet silicone is sound, then it's a good candidate for
>repair. If the inside bead is coming off, then you can pull it away and
>re-silicone. If the inside bead is solid, siliconing a larger bead on
>top is not generally a great idea, but has been known to work. Remember
>that new silicone will not bond to old silicon (and not any silicone is
>aquarium safe, avoid anything with anti mildew/mold properties). If the
>sheet silicone between panes is in bad condition, then the tank should be
>replaced or reassembled (ymmv).
>
>Typically, there is a section of bead which has been pleco-chewed or
>embrittled. Removing it and several inches to either side (usually the
>entire straight length is removed) gives a surface suitable for
>re-siliconing (after some surface prep). At the ends of the new bead
>where it contacts the old bead, the adhesion will be poor, but if there
>is enough bead material to the former leak, it usually stays leak-proof.
>hth

NetMax is right, he usually is. But I would set the tank on the
kitchen table or other well lit, solid platform and fill it with water
and look for the leak that way. Seems to me to be the only way to be
sure. Lay down some towels or something in case all whatever breaks
loose, literally or figuratively, and stand by with a siphon for quick
emptying. If you have the time and can sacrifice the space, fill it
just several inches at a time, maybe finding the leak sooner if it is
down low. Checking the tank for levelness before beginning is a good
idea as well. NetMax's idea, of course. He has a lot of those. And
they're usually good. And now I'm being redundant.

When NetMax said "(and not any silicone is
>aquarium safe, avoid anything with anti mildew/mold properties)."
I didn't read it right. So I will take the liberty of clarifying:
Aquarium safe silicone is available, I've always found it at hardware
stores, the package clearly marked "safe for aquariums". You'll pay
twice the price at the fish store. Or be directed back to the hardware
store. Do not use silicone that does not specifically say it's
aquarium safe.

-- Mister Gardener
-- Pull the WEED to email me